I have a question on the 4 banger. I have a 1930 sport coupe with a rumble seat where the trunk would be and I was thinking of first changing the 6V battery to a 12V battery and I'd like to find a different place to put the battery than under the floor, but is it ok to convert a 4 banger to a 12 V battery? are there any issues with that? Any Ideas as where to put the battery i am open to. Thanks
Always good stuff, I have a 30 roadster car that I am upgrading wiring and need to put the horn rod back in. You seem to have a video ready and updates me on the process again. Hope you are feeling better this must be a few months old but listed at new. But it's all good knowledge and I work by myself so some of the tricks I will use. Thanks, take care
@fredski53 that's a good question. I didn't purchase this unit or talk to Randy this go round. Depending on the year and model of your A, there are some differences. But being a 28-29 7 tooth, the original box and column is 1 piece. Randy supplies the modified column tube made from an original to work on the f100 box. But it was not installed on the box when we got it. On my truck being a 31. I re-used my original column and throttle and spark levers. Doug(the owner) purchased a complete unit without sending a core.
The problem with the F-100 box in a Model A, is that the drag-link operates at an upward angle, resulting in bumpsteer if running a dropped axle dropped
@jeromebreeding3302 so does a stock box or any period correct option. It's a design limitation of side steer/push pull steering and more an issue created from the axle being dropped. The f100 box has nothing to do with the drag link angle. It remains in the stock location. I've put about 25,000 miles on this exact setup in my truck. Bumpsteer is minimal, if non existent, and is really more of a "on paper" issue than a real-world problem.
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop I substituted the F-100 steering box with a modified Corvair box, hung under the frame-rail on my 31 A. This made the drag-link horizontal. That and a Volkswagen bus steering damper, eliminated bump-steer, and it was much quicker lock-to-lock than the truck box.
@jordanwhite6098 the price varies with or without core. The cars with a 7 tooth box(28-29) need a custom column tube made. As the original is 1 piece with the box housing. And needs to be modified significantly. I wanna say dougs was 1400 shipped. My truck was 800. But I had a core and didn't need a column tube.
Side shaft power steering box for prewar with heavy engine and wife check Toyota 4 runner, eeeek... change that to wife driver and heavy engine. Pitman arm is up which worked for my 4" dropped F1 axle with a tie rod arm to top spindle bolts from supplier. After market column, fabbed drag link and pitman arm. Matt's right about drilling frames, sharp cobalt drill bits, low speed, cutting oil and heavy push. I use a heavy right angle drill with a force lever. That car sure is proof they look best with fenders and hood.
Nice job. Horn button/rod can be held down with a yardstick through the steering wheel rim, bent over the button (especially with the ‘30-‘31).
That's a good trick!
Probably one of the best mods for the Model A. With stock size tires it is REALLY easy to steer. Good job.
Couldn't agree more!
We appreciate you Matt.... Keep em coming.... Happy belated birthday...👍😎
@@GeoffBrown-rg7yq thanks so much!
Another great tutorial! Congrats on the subscribers and hope you're feeling better! Go Seattle Speed Shop, keep moving forward!
I have a question on the 4 banger. I have a 1930 sport coupe with a rumble seat where the trunk would be and I was thinking of first changing the 6V battery to a 12V battery and I'd like to find a different place to put the battery than under the floor, but is it ok to convert a 4 banger to a 12 V battery? are there any issues with that? Any Ideas as where to put the battery i am open to. Thanks
This black coupe is converted to 12 volts and has the battery mounted in the trunk hidden in an old Dr. Bag. No issues so far
Always good stuff, I have a 30 roadster car that I am upgrading wiring and need to put the horn rod back in. You seem to have a video ready and updates me on the process again. Hope you are feeling better this must be a few months old but listed at new. But it's all good knowledge and I work by myself so some of the tricks I will use. Thanks, take care
Happy someone can use this info. Good luck with your project!
Pretty sharp too!!
Have you done any videos on the 12 volt conversion?
@@davidcummings2544 no, but I could! This car was already 12 volts when it came.
That ed roth hat is awesome! Did you make it?
@joelstinson2886 no, a local guy did. Totally unlicensed street vendor type thing. I have 2. I love them.
Cool. Im gonna keep watching these videos for fashion tips!
Thanks I'm wanting to do this upgrade to my sedan I've got a hopped up banger just curious what's your favorite engine oil for them?
@jeremym6793 i just run 30 weight from napa in mine. Change it every 500-1000 miles.
Does Randy sell the column with the timing and throttle levers already installed? Did you have to ship the old one to him?
@fredski53 that's a good question. I didn't purchase this unit or talk to Randy this go round. Depending on the year and model of your A, there are some differences. But being a 28-29 7 tooth, the original box and column is 1 piece. Randy supplies the modified column tube made from an original to work on the f100 box. But it was not installed on the box when we got it. On my truck being a 31. I re-used my original column and throttle and spark levers. Doug(the owner) purchased a complete unit without sending a core.
It came complete as shown on the table…timing and throttle levers as well… @fredski53
The problem with the F-100 box in a Model A, is that the drag-link operates at an upward angle, resulting in bumpsteer if running a dropped axle dropped
@jeromebreeding3302 so does a stock box or any period correct option. It's a design limitation of side steer/push pull steering and more an issue created from the axle being dropped. The f100 box has nothing to do with the drag link angle. It remains in the stock location. I've put about 25,000 miles on this exact setup in my truck. Bumpsteer is minimal, if non existent, and is really more of a "on paper" issue than a real-world problem.
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop I substituted the F-100 steering box with a modified Corvair box, hung under the frame-rail on my 31 A. This made the drag-link horizontal. That and a Volkswagen bus steering damper, eliminated bump-steer, and it was much quicker lock-to-lock than the truck box.
Im still waiting for the car to be for sale, maybe one day.
@brodgers7999 if you'd like, i can at least put you in touch. go ahead and send a message on our website www.seattle-speed-shop.com
I got your inquiry, and sent you an email!
how much does it cost?
@jordanwhite6098 the price varies with or without core. The cars with a 7 tooth box(28-29) need a custom column tube made. As the original is 1 piece with the box housing. And needs to be modified significantly. I wanna say dougs was 1400 shipped. My truck was 800. But I had a core and didn't need a column tube.
Link of where to purchase?
@@johnraskob1996 he does not have a website.
Randy Gross
Brake Drums, Brake Shoes, Wheel Hubs, and Steering Box rebuild
714-292-8660
melmodela@aol.com
What year F-100 box is that, Matt ?
@@godsowndrunk1118 1953-56
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop Duh... it's right there in the title.... how'd I miss it...duh.
@godsowndrunk1118 no, I added that after you asked!
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop I feel better now...
Side shaft power steering box for prewar with heavy engine and wife check Toyota 4 runner, eeeek... change that to wife driver and heavy engine.
Pitman arm is up which worked for my 4" dropped F1 axle with a tie rod arm to top spindle bolts from supplier. After market column, fabbed drag link and pitman arm. Matt's right about drilling frames, sharp cobalt drill bits, low speed, cutting oil and heavy push. I use a heavy right angle drill with a force lever.
That car sure is proof they look best with fenders and hood.