Yo brah this was one of the funniest but also pretty detailed auto jobs ever recorded lol me and my girl was laughing like hell bro but this is definitely gonna help us fix our engine problem.🤟🤘👍👍thanks for the awesome Entertainment/info
Thank My man. You made it real easy to find. I had the same issue with the hose quick disconnect leaking out. I found the replacement disconnect in the auto store for about $10. I thought that was the overheating issue and it worked for a couple of days until it overheated again. I did see one of the electric fans working, so the thermostat will be my next project before suspect the fan. Thanks again
Thanks for the tip man I have the same van n had the same problem I did the same thing u did with the water hose n it worked the only thing I didn’t change was the thermostat I put antifreeze n took it for a ride n it went well so I hope that I don’t have to change it the thermostat that is lol thanks
I have a question. I know the Chevy Uplander is the same engine as the Pontiac Montana. Did the dashboard indicator tell you the ac was shut off to protect the engine? And the block thermometer gauge was running cold? I'd appreciate a reply as to how to determine a diagnosis without a scanner. Thank you
Daniel Priest Hey buddy yes my Chevy did that! I had to drive into the protect light came on. I turn the car back in about 25 minutes later and make it home I was about 10 miles away from home lol
My poor mom has a 2008 Chevy uplander...the radiator busted and got replaced like 18 months ago. About 6 months ago we replaced the thermostat and some dude replaced it for us. Ever since he first installed the thermostat this damn van's temp hand wouldn't register at all for the longest time, then it has hit or miss when you fired it up either the temp gauge wasn't reading at all and stuck on cool(I noticed a significant lack of power when you first pulled out it was sluggish when the temp hand wouldn't register at all) or either it would work But it wouldn't run in the middle like I should've it was generally running around the 3/8 mark rather than 1/2 way(had no problems with power and acceleration when the gauge was at least trying to work. I was concerned and slightly pissed off that the gauge and stuff didn't seem to work right at all ever since the guy replaced it so about 10 days after the new thermostat was installed(by the way I'm pretty sure the computer at advanced showed a couple different ones but I got the cheaper one of course and it was supposed to be an exact fit but it was a 185F thermostat.) and told him what was up.. I sit there with him and talked for 30 to 45 minutes while he had the van hooked up to a handheld diagnostic machine and he checked all error codes and he was Digitally monitoring the temp this whole time and the van NEVER got aligned to the middle NORMAL position. Dude said he thinks it was faulty and should buy a new one asap. Well guess we kinda said fuck it cause it wasn't overheating at least and we never got another thermostat cause the part was cheap enough but I'll be damn if we were gonna pay this fucker 100 bucks for a 2nd time to install it! Lol only reason I didn't do the job myself was merely cause I didn't have any deep well sockets. Anyways currently this van is a fucking mess! Severe overheating problem( my bro in laws dad checked it and he thinks there is a small crack in right side of radiator but he was unable to pinpoint the crack. It's drivable Short distance but such A God damn headache! Every time it leaves the driveway gotta refill the coolant/water. While you're driving it it doesnt seem to be leaking much(only a minimal amount) but me and my older brother noticed After we topped it off with coolant sometimes it was leaking like a mf in park when not started. Not so much when driving It. But every time you drive it the mf will Eventually get hot as hell and you can hear it cooking and bubbling when the car is stopped. Get out and pop the hood and the smoke is always mostly puffin up literally right overtook of the overflow reserve tank or whatever. Now this thing is so bad I literally can't go About 1/2 to 1 mile before we hear ding ding ding and the dashboard alert says ENGINE COOLANT HOT, REDUCED ENGINE POWER, PULL OVER WHEN SAFE. but it will usually ding about 4 times and when it first Beeps the Temp hand will spike all the way to H then immediately all the way down to C then usually Gauge rises back up to 3/8 to 1/2normal(only once the problems started getting severe did this current thermostat ever start reading on 1/2Normal. Lol shits crazy. But my mom can't afford to buy parts to fix it right now so yesterday I went online and I score a thermostat for the Uplander, a thermostat for the Honda Accord parked in the driveway which should have been fixed and running months and months ago (thermostat went out, slight oil leak nothing major, and not very often some issue in the ignition or wiring has caused the car the kill out while you're driving down the road... I simply drop it neutral and crank it back up quickly before I lose much speed no problem. But mom is car illiterate And lacks any fast critical thinking skills and it freaks her out the two times it's happened to her and she just rolls to a stop and calls upon little baby Jesus to fix the problem...SPOILER alert... LIl baby Jesus doesn't do shit! 😂 Anyways ordered new thermostat for both vehicles, and order a new coolant temp sensor which I think is causing much of the initial problem, and a new radiator cap. Got another good used battery for the Honda yesterday for 30 bucks too... Just waiting for parts to arrive all something between the 18th and 20th I think. After installing a new thermostat, radiator Cap and temp sensor if that doesn't fix her right up then I'm gonna drop the cash and get another radiator and replace it too. Then if that doesn't Fix it I'm going to a nearby store and buying 2 gallons of gas. Going to open the doors to the uplander and pour the gas everywhere and we're gonna have a fucking bonfire and roast marshmallows or something! Sorry for the novel 😂 I'll personally be avoiding any more Uplander as if it's the Ebola virus 😝
Good job you're definitely mechanically inclined which means basically you're a mechanic without the training. Most mechanics boils down to common sense.
![ถามตรงๆ กับ อาจตุพร ทำไม ประเทศไทย ใครเป็นนายก ก็โดนด่า พอออกเเล้วคนคิดถึง!!?? l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3YFLMXxBGAs/mqdefault.jpg)
Uplander not giving you heat at idle, or under 2000 RPM? Hint... Manufacturer defect. No official fix, but a guy (Kcarsen) in the Chevy forums came up with the idea of rerouting the heater lines to get rid of all the twists and turns dips, and climbs. Worked perfectly. Evidently the water pump is not strong enough to keep the water flowing unless and until the engine stays revved up over 2000 RPM. Dealing with it myself right now. Something involving bypassing one of the two HVAC hoses with a new 4 foot length of heater hose. A professional mechanic (Cody Parkinson) came along and affirmed Kcarsen's fix, decided to bypass both the inlet and outlet HVAC hose paths instead of just one. He was very thankful to Kcarsen who came up with the idea pointing him in the right direction and saving him a ton of headaches as he had a customers van he was worried about taking back in the shop after having done two flushes and getting nowhere. Another fix that GM was totally against was getting an assist pump from say a marine outfit to mount and wire in someway. It worked, but GM got real hot under the collar about it. This would have very likely been an official recall, but for the Bankruptcy all them years ago. The bypass with a new heater hose routing to shorten and remove unnecessary twists, turns, dips and climbs is the gold standard fix even if GM refuses to weigh in on the issue. Anything else you do will at best be a temporary fix. The only official word from GM was an admission that the heater Core was mounted in a far less than preferable position. Possibly I think they were meaning it was mounted too high causing the route of the HVAC hoses to require more force to create a positive water flow through the core than the stock water pump is capable of producing. See the link at the end of the next paragraph.
If you are having a NO HEAT issue at idle with your Uplander read this post in its entirety. About ready to install my new thermostat and do this procedure myself as I am getting my Dex-Cool first thing in the morning as I just finished flushing my entire system, I figured why not give everyone a copy of something directly from GM for the Uplander from back in 2010. About the issue of no heat at idle. Lets just say that the rerouting of the HVAC hoses is a an answer for your prayers, but the damned routing of the stock inlet and outlet HVAC hoses is so damn convoluted its pretty damn scary to take a knife to the existing stock hose system, so for most people including myself I would not call it simplicity, but calling it the gold standard in fixes is in all fairness pretty much right on point no doubt. In addition to the below posted bleed/burp procedure from GM I am attempting to give you the link direct to the Cheverlet forum so you can read the actual posts about the rerouting of the hoses yourself. If you start at the first post and keep reading you will eventually get to it. Leastwise I am pointing you in the right direction and you can judge for yourself the voracity of the information I am offering everyone. I bought my 2008 Uplander V6 LS 3.9 L extended cab back in July 2022 with 115,000 miles on it. I live in Colorado and with no heat I was forced to dig deep on how to fix the heat. chevroletforum.com/forum/uplander-31/2008-uplander-heat-problem-20931/page10/
This is an official release from GM on how to bleed/burp the system from back in 2010. Here is a copy and paste of it.
GM 3.9L 3900 Coolant Radiator purge bleed burp procedure
1. Close the radiator drain cock.
2. If a complete engine block drain was required, install the coolant drain plugs
to the engine block. Refer to Draining Fluids and Oil Filter Removal for the
3.5L engine or to Draining Fluids and Oil Filter Removal for the 3.9L engine.
Important: Use a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL antifreeze and clean,
drinkable water.
3. Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture until the coolant
level is visible and stable. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities .
4. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
5. Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
40 seconds, then shut engine off.
6. Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
7. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
8. Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
30 seconds, then shut engine off.
9. Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
10. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
11.Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
20 seconds, then shut engine off.
12.Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
13. Install the pressure cap, fully threaded on.
14. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the indicator line, then add 400 milliliters
(13.5 ounces) more.
15.Start the engine and run it above 2500 RPM until it is hot enough to open the
thermostat, this will allow the trapped air to be purged from the engine.
16.Complete a series of three, 4-second-duration idles with 4-second-duration
3000 RPM cycles.
17. Turn the engine off and allow it to cool down to room temperature.
18. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the indicator line.
19. Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant using the J 26568 .
20.Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
© 2010 General Motors. All rights reserved.
Good Luck Everyone and your most welcome.
It is my hope that the many hours I spent scouring the net for this information benefits as many people as possible.
I'm an owner of Chevrolet uplander 2008. I'm learning. Please do other videos as well.
Thanks for the video you broke it down simple and now I can change my thermostat thank you.
Heck yes, thank you very much for this! Exactly what I needed to know!
Yo brah this was one of the funniest but also pretty detailed auto jobs ever recorded lol me and my girl was laughing like hell bro but this is definitely gonna help us fix our engine problem.🤟🤘👍👍thanks for the awesome Entertainment/info
Man thanks my mom's just passed and I was stranded but you helped me fix thanks again.
Nice work man
Ya that hose blew on mine too. Thanks for video I gotta do my thermostat
Thank My man. You made it real easy to find. I had the same issue with the hose quick disconnect leaking out. I found the replacement disconnect in the auto store for about $10. I thought that was the overheating issue and it worked for a couple of days until it overheated again. I did see one of the electric fans working, so the thermostat will be my next project before suspect the fan. Thanks again
Thanks for showing us where it’s at.
Thanks dude that was informative appreciate it
But there's no such thing as a 3800 Uplander
Thank you for the great video😊It will be very helpful.
Cool dude, great help. Here replacing in cold Alberta Canada.
Thanks for the tip man I have the same van n had the same problem I did the same thing u did with the water hose n it worked the only thing I didn’t change was the thermostat I put antifreeze n took it for a ride n it went well so I hope that I don’t have to change it the thermostat that is lol thanks
Perfect, thanks
I learned a couple things
please do a water pump now LOL thanks
Thank you 4 the video.
thanks man this really helped me out like really helped me out alot
Thanks good vid
Good looking homie..I just did it thx a lot..
Thank You Brutha, Much Luv Frum TX! Thank You For tha Video!
Now I got to replace my radiator, run into sum bad luck. Any Hoo, got a crack in the header
Preciate ya for the walkthrough..
hell yea, good video!
Thanks.
Video was very helpful.
I have a question. I know the Chevy Uplander is the same engine as the Pontiac Montana. Did the dashboard indicator tell you the ac was shut off to protect the engine? And the block thermometer gauge was running cold? I'd appreciate a reply as to how to determine a diagnosis without a scanner. Thank you
Daniel Priest Hey buddy yes my Chevy did that! I had to drive into the protect light came on. I turn the car back in about 25 minutes later and make it home I was about 10 miles away from home lol
My poor mom has a 2008 Chevy uplander...the radiator busted and got replaced like 18 months ago. About 6 months ago we replaced the thermostat and some dude replaced it for us. Ever since he first installed the thermostat this damn van's temp hand wouldn't register at all for the longest time, then it has hit or miss when you fired it up either the temp gauge wasn't reading at all and stuck on cool(I noticed a significant lack of power when you first pulled out it was sluggish when the temp hand wouldn't register at all) or either it would work But it wouldn't run in the middle like I should've it was generally running around the 3/8 mark rather than 1/2 way(had no problems with power and acceleration when the gauge was at least trying to work. I was concerned and slightly pissed off that the gauge and stuff didn't seem to work right at all ever since the guy replaced it so about 10 days after the new thermostat was installed(by the way I'm pretty sure the computer at advanced showed a couple different ones but I got the cheaper one of course and it was supposed to be an exact fit but it was a 185F thermostat.) and told him what was up.. I sit there with him and talked for 30 to 45 minutes while he had the van hooked up to a handheld diagnostic machine and he checked all error codes and he was Digitally monitoring the temp this whole time and the van NEVER got aligned to the middle NORMAL position. Dude said he thinks it was faulty and should buy a new one asap. Well guess we kinda said fuck it cause it wasn't overheating at least and we never got another thermostat cause the part was cheap enough but I'll be damn if we were gonna pay this fucker 100 bucks for a 2nd time to install it! Lol only reason I didn't do the job myself was merely cause I didn't have any deep well sockets. Anyways currently this van is a fucking mess! Severe overheating problem( my bro in laws dad checked it and he thinks there is a small crack in right side of radiator but he was unable to pinpoint the crack. It's drivable Short distance but such A God damn headache! Every time it leaves the driveway gotta refill the coolant/water. While you're driving it it doesnt seem to be leaking much(only a minimal amount) but me and my older brother noticed After we topped it off with coolant sometimes it was leaking like a mf in park when not started. Not so much when driving It. But every time you drive it the mf will Eventually get hot as hell and you can hear it cooking and bubbling when the car is stopped. Get out and pop the hood and the smoke is always mostly puffin up literally right overtook of the overflow reserve tank or whatever. Now this thing is so bad I literally can't go About 1/2 to 1 mile before we hear ding ding ding and the dashboard alert says ENGINE COOLANT HOT, REDUCED ENGINE POWER, PULL OVER WHEN SAFE. but it will usually ding about 4 times and when it first Beeps the Temp hand will spike all the way to H then immediately all the way down to C then usually Gauge rises back up to 3/8 to 1/2normal(only once the problems started getting severe did this current thermostat ever start reading on 1/2Normal. Lol shits crazy. But my mom can't afford to buy parts to fix it right now so yesterday I went online and I score a thermostat for the Uplander, a thermostat for the Honda Accord parked in the driveway which should have been fixed and running months and months ago (thermostat went out, slight oil leak nothing major, and not very often some issue in the ignition or wiring has caused the car the kill out while you're driving down the road... I simply drop it neutral and crank it back up quickly before I lose much speed no problem. But mom is car illiterate And lacks any fast critical thinking skills and it freaks her out the two times it's happened to her and she just rolls to a stop and calls upon little baby Jesus to fix the problem...SPOILER alert... LIl baby Jesus doesn't do shit! 😂 Anyways ordered new thermostat for both vehicles, and order a new coolant temp sensor which I think is causing much of the initial problem, and a new radiator cap. Got another good used battery for the Honda yesterday for 30 bucks too... Just waiting for parts to arrive all something between the 18th and 20th I think. After installing a new thermostat, radiator Cap and temp sensor if that doesn't fix her right up then I'm gonna drop the cash and get another radiator and replace it too. Then if that doesn't Fix it I'm going to a nearby store and buying 2 gallons of gas. Going to open the doors to the uplander and pour the gas everywhere and we're gonna have a fucking bonfire and roast marshmallows or something! Sorry for the novel 😂 I'll personally be avoiding any more Uplander as if it's the Ebola virus 😝
Change the cooland sensor
Good job bro
If that's green antifreeze it's the wrong coolant your supposed to have dexcool coolant that is orange
How bleed the cooland sistem
Good job you're definitely mechanically inclined which means basically you're a mechanic without the training. Most mechanics boils down to common sense.
I'm an owner 2008 Chevrolet uplander
Other people wanted the whole car taken apart.
Very bad video, to moved.
Thanks for sharing this ....saved me money and a lot of frustration 🫤