I got sore and skinned my knuckles just by watching this. There was probably a time that I might have tackled a project like that. Those days have passed.
I’ve done a lot of fixes and renovations on my boat in recent years. I initially tried to find people to do the work for me but I found out many of these folks knew less than I did about the work needed so I had to bite the bullet and start doing it myself. Like you, I always think I’m too old to be doing some of this stuff but I find that if I take my time and be more patient, do a lot of research and make sure I get the right tool and parts, I usually get it done.
@cheapme1850 Sadly, I'd have to agree with you about trying to find 'professionals' that actually know stuff about boats. Fortunately, my personal experience has/had been good, but I often shake my head when hearing from other boaters - both here in my channel, as well as on other TH-cam videos - about what they've been told by marine mechanics. I guess it's like all trades, with some good and knowledgable gus, and others not so much . . .
My service guys watched the 330DA video prior to doing my water heater & waste tank replacement. They found the video helpful. If you're curious, that job was worth about $4K USD parts and labor.
Sometimes I get lucky 😄 But thank you. I've got over 30 years general contracting experience, so that helps, but boating is my passion which helps a lot more 🙂
Great job Paul, all your connections and wiring look so good. The new unit is so quiet, I could imagine how loud the old unit was. Just luv watching your projects. Have a great summer.😎🇨🇦
Thanks 👍 And yes, now that I've dialed in the fan speed, it is a lot quieter. I'll be making a video on that setup, as well as how I mounted the thermostat/controller in the future. Hope you get a chance to have a look at those ones 🙂🇨🇦
Awesome job, Paul! I literally did the exact same thing on my 420 Sundancer..... I went from a 12K BTU unit to an 18K BTU unit... The newer unit was smaller in size but still a tight fit. Enjoy the upcoming season!
Love watching this as like you I try to do all the work myself. It can be frustrating but feels good to do,it yourself plus you learn your boat systems in the process.
It really is! As you say, learning the boats systems only serves to increase confidence in both the vessel, as well as the ability to troubleshoot and resolve the issues that come up. And I think we both know that issues with the boat are as common as empties in the blue box 😁
Love your content as I have an owned a 1995 sister ship for 20 years. I did both my AC units a few years ago. I went with the Dometic turbo units with the plastic trays. They have worked flawlessly. I did connect the original SMX controllers to the new units. The aft unit is a real PITA. I removed the control box from the new unit and mounted it under the sofa seat where the old one was. I like your idea a little better. Why Sea Ray passed the wiring harness through that bulkhead confused me, they sure were not thinking about having to eventually replace it. With a helper I was able to change both units in one long day. The front one is much easier to do. Again I love your videos!
Great DIY video. As these boats age, I'm sure this video will be vital those of us who will be replacing the CruisAir systems. I think this will be on my 'to-do' list in the near future. I think you have earned that Corona with this project!
Very neat job, quite a project. Compelling watching. If you ever spring a leak on in, out or condensate the power supply might get fried sitting on the floor there, AC current mixing it up together with water. You could put the unit in a tray in due course to mitigate the minor risk.
The fuel economy never even entered my mind 😂 As I think I've mentioned in the past, fuel is actually way down the list as far as boat expenses go and I'm never gonna worry or fret about trying to save a couple of bucks on fuel for my boat. Life is short and our season is even shorter so we try to make the most of it, irrespective of fuel costs ⛽
You can do it! That one's actually a very straightforward project that shouldn't be too hard or too long. But as you say, famous last words 😜 Here's a video I did last year looking at replacing the float switch on our shower sump - should help get you in the right direction at least; th-cam.com/video/qsWzzoQTxhI/w-d-xo.html Let us know how you make out with it.
Nice job as always! Our hot water heater just decided to crap out and it's only 2 years old. I believe it auto shut down but doesn't seem to want to reset. Really needed it for our Cambridge trip coming up in 2 weeks.
Is there a re-set button on the unit? I'm not familiar with any of ours having that - even the new one I had to install on our old 300 Sundancer a number of years ago. Oh ya, that was because I didn't winterize the heat exchanger side and it froze 😩
There is a reset button that appears to be “not engageable” ie it’s not protruding if you know what I mean. If it shutdown because of overheating it apparently didn’t tell the reset button that!
I do know what you're referring to. So if it's not that, it's most likely either the element (which have a much lower lifespan these days), or your main breaker on the panel. Just confirm that the breaker is fully engaged by shutting it to the OFF position, then back to ON. Apart from those things, there are no moving parts to fail....
The breaker is engaging as it should on the panel. One of my boating neighbors suggested that it’s possible that the unit is sensing something that is no longer happening and we should run the water through to make sure there is no air in the system and even empty the hot water tank. I do know that it is definitely not sending any electricity to the unit. The needle shows no movement whatsoever on the panel.
The new unit actually came with a similar product on the bottom of the tray. The old one got all balled up when I removed the old A/C, so it was no longer happy and usable.
Paul, great job man. I'm looking at using the same system for an install this fall and this video will help greatly. Question, did the retro unit come with the refrigerant installed in the unit or did you have an AC guy fill the unit?
@@BoatingWithBoogaboo Paul last thing - I noticed when you removed the old unit that metal sensor was placed against the coil of the old unit. Where was the metal sensor placed on there new unit?
@intrinsicfineautofinishing4660 I don't recall seeing that in the new one, and I just scrolled through the photos I took when installing, but don't see anything similar. That said, I'm sure it exists on the unit, but can't tell you where exactly. You could contact Dometic directly to find out. They are generally pretty good at replying...
@@BoatingWithBoogaboo I'm waiting on a response from Dometic now.. That sensor on the your old unit was next to what I would commonly refer to a radiator. However, that sensor is wired next to the extier cabinet on my boat. I wonder if the sensor was improperly installed form the factory and that could be the reason my cabin will not cool below 80 degrees during the day, which is the problem I'm having. It will got a little cooler at night after the sun goes down. I noticed in the trouble shooting portion of the manual it talks about proper sensor placement.
If you shop around, you'll find this retrofit unit for roughly 3k in Canadian dollars. But if you're doing a completely new install, you would need more stuff, including a duct kit, water pump, wiring, hoses and more.
This setup never had a dedicated air return grill, as it merely draws air in through the cabinetry. As for the filter access, I believe I mentioned that I can access it through the small panel at the bottom of the closet, ahead of the drawers.
Question, is putting the control box there the best idea? Thinking maybe should be in other cabinet thinking about water leaks from ac getting into that box?
I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest that your stinky smell isn't as a result of your air conditioner, but rather the poop lines in your plumbing system. We battled mystery smells on our 400 Sedan Bridge when we had it and finally traced to the 💩 lines that had become permiated with maladous orders 😩 What was the solution? You're not gonna like this if you have to do it, but we replaced all those lines. Problem solved for us. You can check to see if your lines are the culprit by wrapping a warm, wet rag around one of them and letting it sit for awhile (an hour should do it), then removing it and smelling it to see what you find Here's a video I produced a number of years ago that looks at what we did in Boogaboo IV; th-cam.com/video/f6xJB_mN38Y/w-d-xo.html
Typical boat project. Think it will take a few hours in the afternoon and turns into 3-4 days. Could they squeeze that in any tighter? How many F bombs did you have to edit out. Praying mine keeps going. :)
![Battery-Powered AIR CONDITIONING on a Sailboat [Capable Cruising Guides]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xF113aUlZgo/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Paul. My 2002 300 sundancer will need a new unit now that I’ve watched this!
I think you'd have an easier job of it to install a new one, as opposed to having to fight with the old one like I did 😂
Now I don't feel to bad about how long it took me to replace my A/C unit. Great job.....
Took a bit, didn't it? 😆
I got sore and skinned my knuckles just by watching this. There was probably a time that I might have tackled a project like that. Those days have passed.
I’ve done a lot of fixes and renovations on my boat in recent years. I initially tried to find people to do the work for me but I found out many of these folks knew less than I did about the work needed so I had to bite the bullet and start doing it myself. Like you, I always think I’m too old to be doing some of this stuff but I find that if I take my time and be more patient, do a lot of research and make sure I get the right tool and parts, I usually get it done.
@cheapme1850 Sadly, I'd have to agree with you about trying to find 'professionals' that actually know stuff about boats. Fortunately, my personal experience has/had been good, but I often shake my head when hearing from other boaters - both here in my channel, as well as on other TH-cam videos - about what they've been told by marine mechanics. I guess it's like all trades, with some good and knowledgable gus, and others not so much . . .
My service guys watched the 330DA video prior to doing my water heater & waste tank replacement. They found the video helpful. If you're curious, that job was worth about $4K USD parts and labor.
great video !always takes a little more than u think !
Good job Paul
Thanks! The A/C took nearly as long as the editing of this video ;-)
Nice Job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hello Paul,
Well done you are a magician. Very talented in repairing boat projects.
Be well
Sometimes I get lucky 😄
But thank you. I've got over 30 years general contracting experience, so that helps, but boating is my passion which helps a lot more 🙂
Great job Paul, all your connections and wiring look so good. The new unit is so quiet, I could imagine how loud the old unit was. Just luv watching your projects. Have a great summer.😎🇨🇦
Thanks 👍 And yes, now that I've dialed in the fan speed, it is a lot quieter. I'll be making a video on that setup, as well as how I mounted the thermostat/controller in the future. Hope you get a chance to have a look at those ones 🙂🇨🇦
Awesome job, Paul! I literally did the exact same thing on my 420 Sundancer..... I went from a 12K BTU unit to an 18K BTU unit... The newer unit was smaller in size but still a tight fit. Enjoy the upcoming season!
That is awesome! Was it a Dometic unit you used?
Love watching this as like you I try to do all the work myself. It can be frustrating but feels good to do,it yourself plus you learn your boat systems in the process.
It really is! As you say, learning the boats systems only serves to increase confidence in both the vessel, as well as the ability to troubleshoot and resolve the issues that come up. And I think we both know that issues with the boat are as common as empties in the blue box 😁
That project and the end result is super impressive Paul. I imagine a lot of patience was warranted! Great video...I really enjoyed watching this one.
Did you make it all the way through the entire 45 minutes? If you did, thank you and I believe you owe yourself a 🥃
@@BoatingWithBoogaboo I sure did. Watched half on Thursday, the other Friday!
Love your content as I have an owned a 1995 sister ship for 20 years. I did both my AC units a few years ago. I went with the Dometic turbo units with the plastic trays. They have worked flawlessly. I did connect the original SMX controllers to the new units. The aft unit is a real PITA. I removed the control box from the new unit and mounted it under the sofa seat where the old one was. I like your idea a little better. Why Sea Ray passed the wiring harness through that bulkhead confused me, they sure were not thinking about having to eventually replace it. With a helper I was able to change both units in one long day. The front one is much easier to do. Again I love your videos!
Great to hear, thanks!! If I'm lucky, that'll be the last time I have to do this project again. . . On this boat, anyway 😉
Another good video. I enjoy your videos of maintenance and up grades. Thanks Paul.
Glad you like them! I've got more coming, so stay tuned...
Great DIY video. As these boats age, I'm sure this video will be vital those of us who will be replacing the CruisAir systems. I think this will be on my 'to-do' list in the near future. I think you have earned that Corona with this project!
Just one?? I'd say at least two 🍺🍺😁
Glad you found it helpful!
Very neat job, quite a project. Compelling watching. If you ever spring a leak on in, out or condensate the power supply might get fried sitting on the floor there, AC current mixing it up together with water. You could put the unit in a tray in due course to mitigate the minor risk.
Thanks for the tips!
Amazing how much smaller that new unit is. Less weight = better fuel economy.
The fuel economy never even entered my mind 😂 As I think I've mentioned in the past, fuel is actually way down the list as far as boat expenses go and I'm never gonna worry or fret about trying to save a couple of bucks on fuel for my boat. Life is short and our season is even shorter so we try to make the most of it, irrespective of fuel costs ⛽
Awesome video sir! Seeing you do all this makes me think I can do a sump for my shower. Won’t be near this time consuming! (Famous last words)😂
You can do it! That one's actually a very straightforward project that shouldn't be too hard or too long. But as you say, famous last words 😜
Here's a video I did last year looking at replacing the float switch on our shower sump - should help get you in the right direction at least; th-cam.com/video/qsWzzoQTxhI/w-d-xo.html
Let us know how you make out with it.
Nice job!!
Thanks. It was a bit of a project, with access to the units ki da cramped firmly old back 👴
Great video Paul. I like some of these longer "How I Did It" recordings mixed in with your usual fare.
Glad you enjoyed it. My next insightful video is gonna be short and sweet - it only required spending 💰 on gas 😅
Great Job !
Worked out splendidly 😁
Nice job as always! Our hot water heater just decided to crap out and it's only 2 years old. I believe it auto shut down but doesn't seem to want to reset. Really needed it for our Cambridge trip coming up in 2 weeks.
Is there a re-set button on the unit? I'm not familiar with any of ours having that - even the new one I had to install on our old 300 Sundancer a number of years ago. Oh ya, that was because I didn't winterize the heat exchanger side and it froze 😩
There is a reset button that appears to be “not engageable” ie it’s not protruding if you know what I mean. If it shutdown because of overheating it apparently didn’t tell the reset button that!
I do know what you're referring to.
So if it's not that, it's most likely either the element (which have a much lower lifespan these days), or your main breaker on the panel. Just confirm that the breaker is fully engaged by shutting it to the OFF position, then back to ON.
Apart from those things, there are no moving parts to fail....
The breaker is engaging as it should on the panel. One of my boating neighbors suggested that it’s possible that the unit is sensing something that is no longer happening and we should run the water through to make sure there is no air in the system and even empty the hot water tank. I do know that it is definitely not sending any electricity to the unit. The needle shows no movement whatsoever on the panel.
Great informative video, well presented. What made you decide not you use the stuck down dampener after all? Cheers Lady D.
The new unit actually came with a similar product on the bottom of the tray. The old one got all balled up when I removed the old A/C, so it was no longer happy and usable.
Good job, looking from sweden. by the way nice boat
Glad you like it! And thanks for watching all the way from Sweden :-)
I look at all your videos, and got lot of ideas and small tips. Have a Nice boat sommer, and say hallo to ankargirl
Thanks, will do! And don't forget my Little Tiny pussycat, also known as Krona. Yes, there's a few connections with my Swedish background 😀
Happy Wife, Happy well you know...
Yup. Started my apprenticeship more than 46 years ago 😆
“Cool” video. I’ve done it myself and was curious where the return air vent was located on your install?
There's no standalone air return vent, as this unit merely draws air from under/around the cabinets. Sounds weird, but it works.
Paul, great job man. I'm looking at using the same system for an install this fall and this video will help greatly. Question, did the retro unit come with the refrigerant installed in the unit or did you have an AC guy fill the unit?
The unit came precharged, so was good to go right out of the box. All the steps I took for the full installation are included in this video 👍
@@BoatingWithBoogaboo Paul last thing - I noticed when you removed the old unit that metal sensor was placed against the coil of the old unit. Where was the metal sensor placed on there new unit?
@intrinsicfineautofinishing4660 I don't recall seeing that in the new one, and I just scrolled through the photos I took when installing, but don't see anything similar. That said, I'm sure it exists on the unit, but can't tell you where exactly. You could contact Dometic directly to find out. They are generally pretty good at replying...
@@BoatingWithBoogaboo I'm waiting on a response from Dometic now.. That sensor on the your old unit was next to what I would commonly refer to a radiator. However, that sensor is wired next to the extier cabinet on my boat. I wonder if the sensor was improperly installed form the factory and that could be the reason my cabin will not cool below 80 degrees during the day, which is the problem I'm having. It will got a little cooler at night after the sun goes down. I noticed in the trouble shooting portion of the manual it talks about proper sensor placement.
Great Vidio
Glad you liked it!!
Hi Paul , great video ! How much this AC cost ? I am looking to do a new install .
If you shop around, you'll find this retrofit unit for roughly 3k in Canadian dollars. But if you're doing a completely new install, you would need more stuff, including a duct kit, water pump, wiring, hoses and more.
Hey Paul, maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where the return grill and filter is located. How do you change the filter?
This setup never had a dedicated air return grill, as it merely draws air in through the cabinetry. As for the filter access, I believe I mentioned that I can access it through the small panel at the bottom of the closet, ahead of the drawers.
Question, is putting the control box there the best idea? Thinking maybe should be in other cabinet thinking about water leaks from ac getting into that box?
Good thought, but should be okay 🤞
Where did you put the remote air sensor? I have the same unit and according to Dometic, it has to be in the air flow in front of the return.
The sensor came pre-installed from the factory. Yes, it's located at the front of the unit/intake.
Hi Paul. Where would I start troubleshooting and stinky air conditioner? Unit functions fine provides ice cold air but there’s an odour.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest that your stinky smell isn't as a result of your air conditioner, but rather the poop lines in your plumbing system. We battled mystery smells on our 400 Sedan Bridge when we had it and finally traced to the 💩 lines that had become permiated with maladous orders 😩
What was the solution? You're not gonna like this if you have to do it, but we replaced all those lines. Problem solved for us.
You can check to see if your lines are the culprit by wrapping a warm, wet rag around one of them and letting it sit for awhile (an hour should do it), then removing it and smelling it to see what you find
Here's a video I produced a number of years ago that looks at what we did in Boogaboo IV; th-cam.com/video/f6xJB_mN38Y/w-d-xo.html
Air conditioner condensers are prone to developing mold and emitting unpleasant odors. There is a specific spray cleaner that repairmen use.
Wow lots to work but boogaboo is worth it always! 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
It really is!
Is there any chance I could get the old ac unit because I need a motherboard for the exact unit......
Sorry man, but the old one found a new home at a recycling facility about two weeks ago. . .
@BoatingWithBoogaboo no problem...thanks anyway
Typical boat project. Think it will take a few hours in the afternoon and turns into 3-4 days. Could they squeeze that in any tighter? How many F bombs did you have to edit out. Praying mine keeps going. :)
You got it. What one thinks should only take a few hours ends up being a 45 minute long video 😂 But I'm glad it's done.