The Rest Of The Story - What happens to YouTube projects?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m talking about how shop-made tools hold up over time! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
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One thing I like about you is that you do not shy away from showing mistakes or failure. Making mistakes is so important in learning and growing. Many channels only show success and that is not the real world. We all go down wrong paths and dead ends. I think others here hold you in as high esteem as I do. I think it goes without saying you are very knowledgable and we all learn from you. It is so good to see that you are human and make mistakes like the rest of us.
12:25 As I, and my knees, have aged, I've found it helpful to keep a couple of three-legged camping stools around the shop. Low enough so I can reach the floor from them without hunkering all the way down. A five gallon bucket can serve the same purpose. Either forms enough lap to sort a tray of doodads.
I've had back problems that makes standing for any length of time painful for years, so in my little workshop I used to have a tall "Reception desk" swivel chair that I'd fitted with 4" casters. It was great in there because it put me at pretty much standing height at the benches, and I could easily scoot myself along by shoving off against the bench tops without even having to stand up. :D
Unfortunately, when I moved last, the new workshop (Another one car garage) was about a foot narrower and 3 foot shorter than the last one, so there wasn't room for my big boy toys AND leaving a wide enough walkway down the middle for the chair to not block it, so it ended up outside under a tarp during summer, forgotten about during the winter, and then the rusty/mouldy mess was taken to the scrap man the following summer. :(
@@Reman1975 Raman: enjoyed your comment; under medical supervision, have you ever thought your engineering activities might kept you going? Wonderful and cheap health insurance.
That was excellent, Quinn. It's good to know that so many of your special fixtures have been so useful, and that small tweaks can often improve their function!
I just love it when I see one of my childhood heroes commenting on a video of one of my adulthood heroes. We live in magical times.
I love the honesty. Continuous state of improvement is how everything gets better (hopefully). Thanks for sharing.
Quinn , Today I came to the conclusion , that the world is a better place because Quinn Dunki is in it , helping and inspiring people .
Great "Where are they now" Quinn, good to see ongoing improvements. Tool makers clamps, standard type, don't require a LH & RH thread!
Thanks for sharing.
Oh how I hope that little steam locomotive going across the screen means a live steam locomotive build soon, great review
I salute you in keeping with the finest tradition of Paul Harvey and the rest of the story
This kind of follow up project info is super useful. Hope this kind of video becomes a trend!
Quinn, I finally broke down and built the grinder tool rests for my bench grinder. I love them. I just put a straight handle on the adjusting knobs and that solved the tightening problem. My grinder has cast wheel guards which required some machining to attach the rest to them but no vibration problems and it allowed me a lot of space to have inward adjustment. I use brass flat head screws for the jack screws, flat head down, on my small clamps which I made 58 years ago, and have been used many more times than twice at this point, and no marring of whatever tool I mount them on, angle plate, cube or faceplate.
Dick B.USA
You know your show is a success when you've got enough material to produce a clip-show. Love it
Maybe one day sprocket the cat will get their own spin-off..
Excellent video. Highlights an important factor often unstated in the 'maker' community. Totally agreed with the main point you made here (mechanical engineer talking) - the 'problem' with most TH-cam DIY is: You're seeing iteration #1 of a prototype, which in most cases also becomes the finished product, because it's so laborious to make it again, better, twice more, with only incremental improvement. So, essentially, if the concept is good, as a viewer, you finish watching a video looking at a nice idea with considerable potential. Obviously, from a YT creator perspective, it's pretty boring to do two more vids of essentially the same thing, only iteratively better. (Or, alternatively, to burn three times the time making the finished part - iteration #3 - after throwing two prototypes under the bus, thereby cutting one's YT productivity by 66%...)
It's unfortunate that those 'missing' iterations might have only 15-25% difference from the finished product - but that's the bit that turns a good idea into a good product. A kind of gestalt theory - the finished part being greater than the sum of its iterative improvements...
Very well explained. Thanks.
For the material storage issue, add a step for each soon in the selection. The long pieces go all the way down, the short ones go on the step.
Great video. It is always disturbing to me when I finish a project and can immediately see two or three ways it could have been done better. And that happens in the majority of projects. 😂😒
Atleast you are learning from your mistakes. A lot of people don't.
You are not alone. Welcome to the camp.
Quinn, I made a set of toe clamps similar to the ones that you made for my rotary table. I would like to see how you would add an aluminum pad to the back tightening screws. In the interim, I keep a collection of small, 1/8th inch thick aluminum cutoff "coupons" in a jar next to my fastening hardware and slip one between the back tightening screw and my rotary table so as to not mar the surface.
I was waiting to see the steam engine graveyard where the superseded units have been relegated to the dark dusty corners of the house, or running the bingo wheel at the local hall..!
My main hobby is blacksmithing, and I like to do it a lot, so the wife gets rather twitchy when those dark and dusty corners start to overflow with the stuff I have made.
So I have come up with a novel solution to the wife's twitchiness.
As I am a hobbyist, I wont normally sell what I make, it is my hobby! not something to be turned a stressful business. But once a year my mates and I gather up all the various things we have made and we go to a historical museum's annual open day and we demonstrate blacksmithing and sell all the stuff we have made over the last year (for 10c in the dollar on what you might otherwise get for it) and give all the money raised to the museum. Happy wives, happy museum, and a happy bunch of blokes who then have all those dark and dusty corners they can start filling up again!
That's such a lovely story 😃
On the subject of your bar/round and also tig stock, we have used PVC tubing of various sizes and lengths with a PVC cap attached to the bottom. We then cut 4" to 6" notches in the sides to suit the various lengths of materials we needed to keep off the floors/benches.
For the pallet clamps I found using a carriage bolt with the head smoothed and inserted upside down works very well.
The flats under the head are perfect for adjusting with a small wrench too.
For the round stock that's to short use PVC pipe to length and glue an end cap on the bottom.
You can make it as long or short as you want.
I too have space limitations in my shop and meet the problem you talk about at 13:30. I got an old ironing board off a household scrap pile that I use in that sort of situation.
It is is surprisingly robust. I've loaded it with as much as 40+kg (somewhat buttock clenching with that load) and it folds away in seconds.
A suggestion for locking the morse mandrill if there is no space for protrusion - drill and tap the rear for a Taper threaded grub screw then slit it into 60 degree areas so the taper can splay the rear for a heavier bind up on the morse taper
Always a pleasure to bask in the glow of your bright mind, Quinn. Cheers from Vancouver.
I like how things start simple and quickly need to be opposite of how we think it should be to work correctly. Excellent rework Quinn and thanks for sharing!
I love this video, and I love that you build stuff to use. One of the things I enjoy when I watch your channel is seeing the previous projects pop up to help when you build something. I am planning to make a lot of the tools in my home shop for the experience and practice, and so they can be exactly what I want them to be.
Yours, Stefan’s, and Robin’s are my favorite channels. You all take the time to explain what your thought processes are. Seeing how different workflows, applications, and levels of OCD can require different approaches provides a more wholistic understanding of the concepts.
Thank you for the honesty Quinn👍👍
I love that you shared the success and learnings of your projects! I wish more channels did this.
Thank you! Excellent video and message to all of us starting out.
Continue to greatly enjoy your channel. Revisiting your projects and pointing out the flaws is a kind of honesty that you well exemplify. Kudos!
Thanks for sharing these updates. I am assuming that it is because it has already gotten quite a bit of screen time/use since its birth that the cross drilling fixture wasn't included. Love the spoiler/peak into the future!!! :)
Information about your material bench solved a long-standing problem I've been facing with my own storage needs for years. Your channel rocks!
For the rotary table, I found it much more convenient to buy blank, 'soft' drill chuck arbour's.
It was real easy to make a special washer to fit into the base of rotary table (a 'top hat' washer that allows Allen head to fit inside it). The 'working end' is about 48mm long & 31mm dia, 3 Morse taper. (Victor Machinery Exchange NYC) It was cheaper than buying material and making them
Being Morse taper, it was simple to fit it into lathe head-stock after removing chuck to turn to whatever diameter and length fixture you need.
I only bought 2 arbour's but after 10~11 years have only used one, the other still new in box.
The only 'inconvenience' is drifting it out when using R.T. flat surface instead of having clamps and fixtures attached
I have an idea about the bottom tubes on your bar stock storage. You don't have to wait for smaller tubes. Just take a tube of the same size and cut it in half so that you have two arcs. Glue the "feet" of the arcs to the existing tubes. From the top down perspective, it will look like three circles in a row with a very curvy M across the top of them (or a very curvy W across the bottom of them.)
During my fitting & turning apprenticeship, I had to make toolmakers clamps and a soft hammer in trade school. They were both nickel plated and I still have both (from 1987).
Great point on over lapping storage sizes. I ran into same problem which leads to point #2 always leave extra room to add on
You are i are of a kind. i am happy you keep learning. No matter the design or use, every one of your design's turn out more practical and useful than the last. I try to learn every day and with every mistake myself.
DESIGN IS EVERYTHING THANKS FOR SHARING
I always appreciate your openness to admit the *extremely rare* mistakes you might or might not make. This can be an intimidating hobby, and the humility is appreciated.
On the rotary table use NPT tread in the mandrill and do the same to the bolt the slit the mandrill so it expands and tightens in the back.
Thank you for making this kind of followup video
Thank you Quinn.
Working on shop improvements as you speak.
Nice update video, good idea!
When I have used strap clamps similar to those face plate clamps, I always have the support bolt upside down. You don't need to access the head of the support bolt as it's tightened using the other bolt, and the head has more surface area and no sharp edges so it won't damage the face plate as easily. Also it gives you more range of length in the screw, as you don't need the length of the head sticking up out of the top of the clamp. Not having the head sticking up will also reduce the overall height of the assembled fixture, which may be helpful sometimes. You made a counterbore for the head of the clamping bolt, but then have the support bolt head sticking up potentially getting in the way. One last thing to consider, If you make something for the end of the bolt, you will have to remove it to swap to different length support bolts, and you have to unscrew and then screw in the full length of the bolt. When you get to longer bolt sizes there is also rarely thread running up the full length of the bolt, so reversing the screw is a necessary step in these longer lengths anyway. Simply reversing the back support bolt seems to me to be the easiest and quickest solution to many potential problems, the only exception is clamping on parts thinner than the bolt head, but simply grinding the end of the shorter bolts flat should solve this, no sharp edges from the thread forming process, no damage.
Hope this helps, the only downside to this solution is that it doesn't require any machine tools to make it happen, where's the fun in that!
🤣
Thanks for sharing the goods & the bads of your shop made tooling . I might have a perfect lever for that tool grinder rest , I;ll have to dig thru my stash
That was great Quinn !! You rock !! Thank you !!
It takes a very confident/down-to-earth person to point out the failures along with the triumphs. I definitely appreciate the more "human" aspects of all your content👍-Andy
Thanks Quinn this is a very educational video, so good to go back and see some of the issues with the current designs and ways to improve on them thank you so much Cheers.
Great tool update Quin.
I made a draw bar for my rotary table. It consisted of a bit of all-thread and a custom nut. As you mentioned, clearance is limited, so the nut looked like a threaded cylinder with maybe a 2mm flange on it to provide clamping force. I drilled 2 holes on the back face so I could tighten the nut with a pin spanner. The only issue is that you need access to the back side of the rotab to use the draw bar.
Long bar stock storage; appropriate diameter plastic pipe cut in half length-wise, stood up and tilted back a few degrees holds both long and short.
I've been using the different sizes of PVC plumbing pipes for the tubes, and you can use the end caps, with a hole drilled, to screw the pipe piece to your base, or, in some cases, the end caps, themselves, can be used, as is... For your clamping screws, I've used scrap bicycle quick release cam locks, or, I've also used a kind of leverhnut that has little castellations, so that you lift the lever, and rotate it a bit, kind of like a ratchet effect, so that you can always (almost) get the lever part oriented nicely....hmmm, I need to put a link to those things...
Great video. I design a lot of tools, holders, brackets and fixtures that I 3D print. While the first print is often usable the second or third iteration is so much improved as we incorporate what we learned. Similarly with software, re-designing after some early trials often produces a better overall design if it is something that isn't similar to what we've done before...
thanks for the updates on the projects, thanks for you time and trouble 🤠
I’ve made a few things, the grinder table, tap follower and I’m working on a decent band saw table. Most complex was the DRO; luckily I have a combo machine so I have both lathe and mill axis covered with three scales, with TouchDRO. Not to mention the many techniques. I made a small CNC conversion back when, but got a little overwhelmed even though it works. So, I need to reconnect everything since we moved. Your techniques were mostly what I was missing; so I need to get back to that project. Thanks!
I enjoyed your revisit video. I had a thought about your walking mandrel problem from your corner rounding fixture. Your problem reminded me of some expanding mandrels I've seen other machinists use. If you cut the original mandrel a little shorter, and cut a cone shaped recess into the end, and slit the mandrel about halfway up, you could make a cone shaped nut to fit into the recess. Then, counterbore your original mandrel for thread clearance, and use a long bolt to reach through to the cone nut. that should apply pinching/spreading force at the bottom to bind it in the taper. Alternatively, and more simply, you could just machine a relief into the underside of your fixture (if there's room) for a shop made wafer nut, and again, counterbore your mandrel.
As for your tubular storage I might suggest using PVC pipe or EMT conduit. I use both for different applications and I hang them as a over head storage. In my home shop I used hole saws to cut holes in plywood to make a wooden rack to mount the storage unit to floor joists
and rafters. At my work I use EMT with unistrut rails and EMT clamps to make an over head storage rack under our stairsteps going to our parts stock room. This rack is handy for drill rod, brass rods, and other typically short materials. 3 feet and shorter. At this point you can place all stock 3 feet and shorter in the tubes and have all the ends pulled out to the front opening for easy access.
yes there is many things I have learned rom you and your videos. I am sure there is more to come in this next year. I would like to get going on a repair project but spring is not here yet. just got a snow storm so it goes. but it is coming.
This could be the most honest video on YT. Thank you for giving us an insight rarely seen by the common hobby machinist.
I appreciate this.
Honestly, I question so many jigs & tools that are "perfect solutions!" but then you never see the maker use them again...ever... It's disingenuous, and those people usually wind up getting unsubscribed for various reasons.
I love that you actually use your project tools, but I am not surprised ;) Keep up the great work!
Enjoyed…certainly enjoy making shop tools/enhancements
Ohhh thanks for uploading, needed some of this today. :)
The cores from large-format photo paper - as are likely available from a local print shop - are 2 or 3" diameter and as sturdy as the ones on your material rack.
I will comment here, as it is related albeit not directly.
I think having much shorter round stock in the same place will get messy. I think cups should be made to catch the ends of shorter stock further up. Either through the original cores, or through new ones mounted in a offset honeycomb-type pattern.
Got an easy fix for the grinder adjusters. Drill 4 holes in each adjuster and make like a angle grinder tool that is tethered to the grinder for when it needs adjusting. No more vise grips.....
Your an awesome yet humble mentor. Keep up the great content.
As far the brass pads for the faceplate clamp screws. Depending on the thread diameter some brass bullet casings may be an easy solution.
One of our favorite pieces of furniture in our house is a piece that was supposed to be the top section of a break front credenza that was to be three shelves wide which were supposed to be something and 3/8" long not 5/8" that were mortised and securely glued into place and after a long days work and putting it in place I found it overhung the lower section yep 3/8. I made some really interesting doors for it and used milk paint since it was available for experimentation and design purposes, made the proper dimensioned one for the client and everybody was happy. BTW Quinn was curious if you considered just drilling holes in that knurled knob and making a little hex hole flange out of it.
I've made many shabby tools that have both ended up being great, and totally useless scrap that I at least learned from, and something that's helped me a lot if I really need something to work because it's for a job or something I'll use all the time I make one and see it as a test piece with no aesthetic features and leave it a but rough , test it out on a small project and that tends to make me figure out what I should change or add to the design.
Of course this only really works on fairly simple projects and not something like a massive storage system haha
Great video, I loved hearing what you'd change and what works, I hope you and other TH-cam tool makers make more videos like this! You always inspire me to make more!
Good honest evaluations!!
Another great video Quinn love the honesty of your reviews. Regarding the bar stock storage, for a simple solution, could you just add another row of tubes between the upper and lower ones (on the next horizontal shelf support) to cater for the mid length stock?
For your storage rack you could install some garage door barn door etc style or make a track along the front of the shelf with a fold down shelf on rollers with a hinged leg with angle on the bottom so when not in use it's hangs flat against the front of the shelf then when you need it slide it where needed and lift the leg so the angle sits against the top and front of the shelf below locking it in place with right track etc it'll probably only stick out a couple inches then you can slide it to wherever you need it when not in use it'll just hang flat against the shelf 👍👍👍
Yes Quinn I make also a lot things and I learn that making is the easy part but design is the hardes part it take a lot of time 😢 Thank you for the video 😊👍
In regards to the lack of flat surface dilemma near your stock rack, might try using a folding suitcase stand like I do. Nice because it can be easily stashed someplace when not in use, & will hold a substantial amount of weight without a problem.
For a support for the bins make another rack top and space it up and off the existing top so there is a slot into which a plywood shelf could be inserted and cantilevered when you wanted to remove a bin and support it.
One shelf the size of the bins and moved into the appropriate area where support is required and slid in when not needed.
JIM
This was a neat little sum up my stuff video.
Interesting.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Make a (square?) cart with castors and a minimal top to put your scrap bins on. This way you could also roll the whole bin over to were you are working if you need to choose a piece based on something clamped in your machine tool, for example. Of course I am assuming you have an open spot to stow it.
The face plate clamps, would you want the clamping nose to be more pointed? That seems like a benefit to get parts of castings that are more irregular and you only have a little surface to clamp onto.
Hi Quinn, You should take a look at Harold Halls books. In particular his one on milling and his one on grinding. In them are plans to make a very good grinding rest and fixtures which can be used for sharpening end mills, lathe tools etc..
Thanks for sharing!
dear quinn.... this video is something I was always wondering about. thank you very much for this. inspided me to go on my myford super 7:-)
Nice shop update Quinn, and congratulations on your sub situation, a well deserved pat on the back. Regarding those face plate clamps, I have seen the bolts being drilled out for a brass insert, but was wondering on the feasibility of screw-on pads for those bolts (just a thought to see how fertile your mind is). anyhow, enjoyed and well. cheers!
I like the rollpin solution. The ones I made in school use e-clips, and I was forced to mill out the hole for a drill bushing.. and basically just resign myself to going through e-clips. I'd considered actually turning a new screw with a standing ring, and just cross-pinning a knurled handle after assembly... Looking like I'm stealing your idea instead! 😎
This certainly does a good job of reminding me that I CAN modify my shop made tools and such. I'm working on a new bench right now, so thanks for giving me permission to mess up and correct things later! (signed, a woodworker)
Hi Quinn, great vid! Have you considered adding draw runners to your stock shelves, then you can pull the boxes out and open them in situ👍 Looking fwd to the up coming project! 🚂
Hi Quinn! I'm curious about the scratch awl you're pointing at everything with! I don't think I see it in the product listings :)
W E MacNevin On your storage containers problem.
Take a old retired carpenter advice. There are shelf sliders for drawers that will hold 50 lb+. Mount it under the top shelf place sheet of plywood on top of it. it will make a place to put container. Your center casters make your shelf hard to move.
Use PVC pipe for your stock storage instead of the cardboard tubes. You have endless sizes to choose from and can cut to any length.
10:56 - choo chooooooo! :) Fun! I look forward to that!!
One of the dirty little secrets that a lot of the "Maker" type TH-cam channels don't mention is that epoxy resin yellows with age. Most of these beautiful river tables and epoxy + wood turning projects that now clutter up the platform will end up looking misty, yellowed, and dull 3 to 7 years down the line. This happens through UV damage (Which surprisingly, once started, will usually continue to get worse, even if the items later protected from UV), and heat. So if you decide to put your expensive new hand turned epoxy and walnut burr flower vase on a warm window sill, you've pretty much guaranteed it's going to look awful in a few short years.
If they're sprayed with UV blocking clearcoat from new the yellowing will take longer to start, but eventually it nearly always still happening.
Paul Harvey would be proud :)
Still fighting with stock storage here.
Can you add a small flip down or pull out table to the front edge of the storage cart to hold the boxes while you have them open?
Everybody is aware of the cord fairies that come into our shops at night to tangle up the extension cords and air hoses that we so carefully coiled up and put away. Apparently they have cousins that like to mess up storage of bar stock when we aren't looking.
For a temporary improvement to storing your "no-man's land" bar stock, you could use clothespins to clip them to the longer lengths.
I love those cardboard tubes. I have used them for numerous projects.
If you need some of the smaller cardboard tubes go to your local fishing store and ask fishing poles are usually shipped in the heavy wall tubes up to 8ft or longer and 2-4 inches especially for small or single pole orders you can also post on your local fishing page most fisherman that have ordered poles have several tubes laying around somewhere they'd probably give you👍👍👍
For your tubular racks at the end of the bench, mount the tubes on slat wall, then make bottom panels for each tube and adjust them up and down per your requirement
JIM
The problem with putting a brass tip on the rear screws of the strap clamps is that you need screws of different lengths for different setups. Ideally, you'd make a set with multiple lengths, but, you know, life... For now, I still use brass shims for mine. It's inelegant but expedient.
But what about the cat toothbrush jig? THAT'S what people want to know! 🤣
On that last issue of needing the brass caps on the supporting screw, just throw a penny between the screw and the face plate, cheapest protection you can get.
Rotary table mandrel, my universal rotory table has the central taper wider at the rear, took me a fair bit of head scratching to work out why.
Firstly, I love this channel because you show an honest analysis of the sort of silly mistakes I, as a professional amateur, always make. Secondly, are you going to make a locomotive?! You should definitely make a locomotive!!
Don't know if this will help or not but I have a similar albeit smaller storage problem for metal lengths and I have been considering how I can use plastic plumbing pipe more sensibly for differing lengths.
It occurred to me that long stock (say 1000 to 1200 mm) can easily be catered for via a normal 32 mm (1.25") standard pvc sink drainage pipe up through 4"/100mm orange underground pipe. BUT by cutting shorter lengths of pipe and using end caps and standard plumbing solvent you can effectively create the equivalent of those desk pen tidies with the multiple different sized tubes. Using differing lengths of open pipe and glueing appropriately an infinitely variable yet consistent storage system can easily be created. Including a stable stand alone one not necessarily requiring the vertical support of a bench.
Quinn, you are an excellent instructor. Lots of tutorials on machining and techniques. Most of them use aluminum. If possible, maybe in a future video, you can expand on using steel as your test pieces and why you selected it. There are so many metals to choose depending on the application and deciding what works best. Price, machineability, weld. temper. etc. HR vs CR. For example, if machining an acme screw, what metal would you use. I am guessing your lathe or mill has a lot to do with this. Hp & rigidity, skill level. Anyway, thks.
Thank you very much. Dad always told me that trade people are always their own worst critic, the legs on a wooden table are never the same length but only the cabinet maker knows. These projects all seem sound and fit for purpose to me, well done.