Just wanted to say thank you way passed when this came out as this helped me with a different problem. My middle mouse button stopped working but seeing you take yours apart was a great guide on how to get this done without breaking anything. Cheers!
Corsair M65s are my jam and have been for years. I've got one sitting in a box that I broke the scroll wheel on when I tried to take it apart to clean it last year and my newer one just started double-clicking yesterday. Hence why I've watched this video. My original idea was to find out how to replace the faulty switch with the perfectly fine one from my old mouse. But now that I see soldering is involved for that to happen, it just dawned on me that I can put my newer scroll wheel into the older mouse in place of the one I broke. I realize that none of that has anything to do with this video, but still, thank you for taking the time to show everyone how it's done.
aw man. If you watched the whole video you would have seen that you don't actually need to solder anything. well your solution worked all the same I suppose so good on you. :P
This video was absolutely awesome. Another tip for you all in the comment section: At the end of re-assembly, I was driving myself crazy trying to get the mouse 1 button to click normally after clicking the cover back into place. Turns out the screw underneath mouse 1 attaching the motherboard to the mouse needed to be tightened a bit more to get the correct spacing. Mouse is now as good as new! I got this for free from a friend so totally worth a bit of tinkering, now I have a nice mouse for my first gaming PC 👌
If anyone is watching this 2024, its still pretty much the same on newer. Bottom screws better hidden but still same spot. One thing I do have to say that top sensitivity buttons ribbon cable lock is really easy to shoot in the high heaven and lose it forever. For me button reassembly took a couple tries to get it right. Also button cover is much much easier to remove on newer versions. Good luck!
My switch completely went blank. Not even double clicking, straight up not working. I did this with no experience and managed to do it. Thank you SO much, you're a lifesaver
Excellent tutorial! What I found most difficult is to replace the cover after the whole operation. And also to reposition the metal clicking part inside the button. Be careful not to use force on it; if it bends, it will loose its clicking ability. I managed to bend it back, since I was a little too brute the first time
Word of warning: when you pop off the switch for the button, point it TOWARD the table, or else the miniscule button on the interior of the switch will LAUNCH into oblivion, never to be found again
Of course, it only took me 3 hours to do this because when assembling it back, the copper piece bent. But thanks to you, I saved some cash and got to fix something, which is always entertaining. Thank you so much!
Ah man. You are a legend. Just today I was about to go and get a new mouse in the shop, but then I decided to see if I can find something. Did exactly what you showed on my Harpoon RGB. Before the fix had 19 double clicks out of 100. After the fix 0 double clicks out of 200. You saved me around 70 euro. Thanks a lot. Best of luck. :)
Thanks for the video! Helped me fix my M65. Looks like they redesigned the boards inside and made it a lot easier to reach the switches. Only had to remove the top cover and the board with the switches itself. No ribbon or power cable removal needed at all!
I don't usually leave comments but I will make an exception: THANK YOU! Very helpful and simple information, I was desperate having to change my mouse, but I followed your instructions and it worked wonders! :) As some others said: the tricky part is placing the metal part back in place as it needs to be properly fitted to keep its clicking properties. Just take your time and don't put too much force into it.
Is a classic legal scam(Planned obsolescence) that companies can made in order to keep consumers buying their products constantly. For years there were people trying to do something about that but with no avail.
@@SpyderBlackOfficial I was thinking about that but im worried those will get really bad if you spill something or even just if the mouse picks up some dust.
Thanks for the in depth video. You covered all the bases however this is the last Corsair "gaming" mouse i'll ever buy. Three months later and left click stopped ( mouse was never dropped) functioning properly. Take it apart and the little blue button wasn't all the way out and the underlying copper conductor was bent from regular use.
Thank you for this! It worked perfectly! My mouse could barely go 4 clicks without double clicking, after sanding the contacts like you showed now I can go 200 clicks with no issue! Getting the cover off was a bit nervewracking, and putting it back on was a bit finicky, but this was super easy, done in 30 minutes. For anyone who doesn't have the tools, the screws for the cover take a T6 Torx head, everything else is simple tools. Great tutorial!
I managed to fix this mouse with like one of those super tiny flat head screwdrivers you get with eye glasses and a finger nail file. If I can do it with these tools ur good lmao trust me I'm properly retarded when it comes to fixing super tiny stuff like this, this shit was ez
My left click started double clicking on my M65 RGB Elite a week ago, I followed this guide to repair it and its now working as it did when I got it, thank you! I opted to de-solder and solder on the entire switch. The switch inside the Corsair M65 RGB Elite mouse is actually a D2FC-F-K(50M) but the switches in your video description is what I ordered and used, as I didn't realize I had the elite and not the plain RGB version. It still works fine and the switches looked the same other than the section that you press to activate being white plastic instead of blue plastic, and all of the posts being full length instead of 1 being shorter.
Sanding the button worked like a charm for me. I'm amazed that I managed the disassembly and assembly since the only experience I have is with building desktop PCs (where everything is much larger) but it somehow worked using your video. Thanks a bunch! 👍
Really helpful, these switches are default for most mouses, and that repair worked for a newer gen of a corsair mouse. Thank you bro! For people that attempt this repair, please note that the cobber has to be aligned properly for this to work, I had a few failed attempts at doing this
After only 1 month of usage, my mouse was absolutely unusable. (double clicking or not clicking at all 90% of the time ) This quick fix solved the issue so thanks a bunch !!!
Thank you so much for not using music. These quiet repair vids are informative but also relaxing, in a weird way. Any time there's music in videos like these, I just skip forward or mute.
This worked on my first attempt. It was a pretty hard process of uninstalling and reinstalling the parts but it is definitely worth the time. Just be mindful of where you place the parts, especially the mouse switch components.
I've used optical mice of different brands for years, but never had this type of problem with any of them. Thank you for figuring out the culprit, I'm going to try your cleaning method first and if that doesn't work, buy a different brand.
I've had my m65 since 28 october 2017 and the double click issue arrised about a year and a half into having the mouse. It comes and goes but really you want to replace the switch with one designed for heavy use, i still havent and im now looking to buy a switch so i can solder it in. Gotta love how corsair skimp out on nasty leafblade switches, they are the worst kind you could use that do not last long at all. I hate how manufacturers are more concerned about making products which fail within a short period of use and need to be replaced, no one seems to make products that last.
Well, I *tried* to post a message about Planned Obsolescence, and what would happen if governments were to ban it; BUT Jigsaw blocked me! Jigsaw is a Google A.I. algorithm that checks ALL posts into the comments sections of TH-cam videos for words and phrases that have the potential to "offend" the snowflakes. Oh, I'll bet that Jigsaw was designed *by* snowflakes *for* snowflakes!
@@cyrotechnium This could well be part of TH-cam's plan to someday COMPLETELY do away with video Comments Sections! I mean, TH-cam has already disabled the Comments Sectiions of entire *categories* of videos -- including art tracks and videos "made for kids"! If it comes to TH-cam eliminating the Comments Sections completely, then we'll have to start creating Internet forums in order to continue to comment on TH-cam videos! After all, there has been, for YEARS now, a trend among websites to get rid of Comments Sections. For instance, the Weather Channel website used to have a Comments Section for each article; but not anymore.
Wanted to say thanks again for this video. Had to clean my contacts again and worked like a charm. Removed a ribbon cable this time to make things a little easier on myself.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I was getting mad since I need a properly working mouse for both design and gaming. Double clicking during work was a hell but couldn't afford a new good mouse. So my amateur ass decided to fix not only Corsair but also my old Genesis mouse that was about to be sent to recycling. I used Genesis as a try out and then went for Corsair. Now I have not only one working mouse but two! Both great rodents fixed thanks to your precise and clear instructions! CHERISH! Thank you once more, my dude
It worked. Just bought a brand new corsair m65 (2 months ago) Did exactly like the video and it worked like a charm! Im still testing today, but it worked instantly. One thing i noticed is that the click is now a bit more "heavy" its not bad, but definitly feels different from the left button and the right button. I think, over time the feel is gonna match again. But, otherwise, Great video! Saved my mouse! I love this mouse, had one for 6 years and now bought the new one to use with icue.
I've had the Corsair M65 about 3 years now, and it had the double click issue after about 2 years in, but recently was just horrible. This video helped tremendously....I used 200 grain fine sandpaper (all I had in the garage), but after testing the repair at a fast double click javascript test page, no double-clicks after 200+ clicks, and it is working fine now. Thanks for the great video!
Just wanted to say thanks so much. Been through 3 of these M65's pros and normal and all of them had the same issue. This time instead of replacing I decided to follow this guide and it worked straight away super easy to do. Thanks!
Since you explained why you did this operation, I knew it was not really my issue since my mouse is just a few weeks old. It started doubleclicking after I had it in my backpack with my laptop and lots of books. That little copper piece on top, inside the switch was bent. But now it is fixed. I did it on a Harpoon.
just the perfect video I was looking for. I'm experiencing double click on my corsair m65 for the past weeks now. thank you for this nice video! good thing I have precision tools.
It took me 30 minutes to refasten the tiny copper-plate. Hint: At its mouse-front-facing end, It will hover just 0,1 mm down on the holder. Feeling after having it fixed: I made fire! Priceless. Thank you :)
mine is barely 2 months old and it's already double clicking. I lost the receipt so they won't replace my mouse. This fixed the issue and very easy to do thanks to your tutorial. Thanks a lot!
Great info!!! My mouse kept deselecting or dropping the "drag and drop". After watching your video I just use more force to hold down the button and it works great!!! I never thought the switch/button would have physically warned out as per your video (and not software at fault). Thank you!!! Great insight!!! Maybe you can tag my problem to your clip
This is a really relaxing guide. Mouse no longer double clicks. I may have damaged it a bit, so it no longer makse a clicking sound, whenever i press on the button.
Took the mouse apart a second time. The small copper part was not seated correctly, so it wasn't making full contact and thus failed to make a clicking sound.
Thank you so much! I benefitted immensely from your vid and I was able to sand the switch like in your vid. They were almost black with corrosion. Works better now than when I got the mouse new. Many thanks!
Absolute lifesaver! Worked first time! I gave the copper parts of the microswitch a little swab down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any skin oils from it though - not a necessary extra step, but probably worth doing.
Just tried this on a newer M65 Pro, and it worked like a charm. Button no longer double clicks, and feels snappier and more responsive as well. The newer version is a bit simpler inside, so there are less cables to disconnect, and the screws are al philips head.
Well after 2 years of Minecraft PVP my left click started becoming less and less responsive, Followed this tutorial and its feels so much nicer. Thanks for the vid man, very helpful. My middle mouse wheel button still kinda eats ass and I have to press very hard on it to get a response, but this helped a bunch.
Followed this on an M65 RGB Elite, tricky bit I found getting the contact off and on but other than that a breeze, working a treat now. I used to have to press hard to get a contact and 20 in a 100 were fast doubles but not one now, thanks for the help!
I just did this, and it worked great in the end, but it was quite hard to get the spring right. I have TWO main takeaways/tips. 1: There are small plastic parts that protrudes through the black little box. They can fall out, and it's hard to get back on the mouse with everything else going on. I solved it with tape. Best way to go around this is to from the start, before popping off the black cover, add a small piece of tape on the top of the cover, to make the plastic part stick to it and not fall out. Worked great for me that way. 2: The small metal springy part. It's not really a hock that holds it here, it's the tension from the small bended section that pushes the whole sheet forward. If you then put the opening over that other small pin it will stop it from moving forward and create tension. Holding it in place. I misunderstood that part initially and had a big issue getting it back together and click properly when pressed. I had to resort to opening another of the boxes to inspect more carefully before I took it apart. So a word of warning here. Check carefully on what sides of what pins that the different parts go and understand where the tension is before removing anything. I could not go 30 click without a double click before with that test site, but can go over 200 clicks now and no error. So as far as I can tell it's perfectly fixed now. I just don't know for how long. (Btw, my mouse model is a slightly newer version, so I didn't have the back cable. The LED is stuck to a chip there directly. So be prepared for slight variations.)
Oh, and I didn't use a sandpaper. I used the knife to scrape at the surface to make it clean and flat. Maybe not the best. But this means I could do it with just a screwdriver, a knife and a set of small tweezers. (+ regular tape for the solution mentioned above)
@@Tech2Rush One more recommendation. I only fixed my left and right mouse button at the time, but my middle mouse button is bad now as well. So if you actually take the time to open the mouse, it might be just as well to fix all buttons at once. Just to save you time later. Good luck with your fix.
@@Gafgar Thank you for your tips, though I only did the left button, as I basically never use the middle click, and quitting mobas before I got this mouse means the right button sees very little use compared to the left. I did do the tape trick, and I imagine that saved me some fiddling. On another note, I completed the switch cleaning without removing any wires, just carefully leaving the circuit boards and top connected. To clean the actual switch I only removed the plastic cover, then slid a thin strip (1.5mm*40mm?) of sand paper between the contact points, gently pressed the switch and pulled the sandpaper through the assembled switch. I did this 3 times with the sandpaper face down, and 3 times face up, before reassembling the mouse. No more double clicks 😎
omg I could have just left the spring assembled xD I can't seem to put it back together Also the middle mouse button doesn't seem to have an openable switch so I just put some rubbing alcohol on it and blew on it xD not sure if it's gonna do the trick but yea
worked like a charm, word of warning, be carful not to bend the coper pices or just know you will have to bend them back. It uses tension to work. Wish they would fix/ or make this part a better quality.
Thanks my man, never would have thought to tackle the existing switches. Works great now as I had both buttons double clicking. That shim on top of the switch is very fiddly to get back on though. Had to disassemble twice because of it.
holy shit, *thank you* . I asked for a new mouse for Christmas, but was going to get rid of this one....but now that I did this, I may continue to use it and just hold onto the other one I'm getting for when this one officially craps out on me. unfortunately, I broke the plastic hinge that fastens/safely holds the wire connection for the DPI/DPI RGB on the top of the case, to the circuit board (near the forward/back wire connections). It still works, but I know eventually that thing is gonna give. At least it's to something that I don't really deem important (especially the RGB for the DPI setting). At any rate, used the double click test, and did over 100 clicks from slow to very fast, and it didn't detect a single one! Who'd thought that gently sanding some copper would fix such an easy, yet complex problem! All the more, thanks a bundle! Be safe, and have a wonderful holiday season! :D
Thanks for the video! I'm going to try it out later. I don't why the buttons on a cheap mice from back in the day seem indestructible but the expensive ones often screw up too easily these days. My third gaming mouse within 4 years that has a double click issue without any good reasons for it. Might as well invest in a whole soldering kit and replace the switch than to buying a new mouse each year. Wish me luck!
I bought TWO of this stupid mouse. The first one, about 8 months into use it started with double clicking. We did everything to fix it - spraying air (worked for a week), uninstalling iCue (did nothing), and then finally using this video. It fixed it for about 2 weeks and then back to double clicking. I read online that the faulty parts were upgraded in the newer models of this mouse - so stupidly, I purchased another from Best Buy. Not even a month and a half later - DOUBLE CLICKING AGAIN. I love the model of the mouse and I am extremely mad and bummed out at this quality of this. I'm not hard on my mouse at all, and there's no excuse for it wearing down as fast as it does. I'm done with this brand. Hope this is a useful warning to anyone stumbling on this video for a fix.
holy hell yes. i absolutely love the look, the feel, and everything about this mouse. i had the m65 pro and didn't have issues for an entire year. figured that they SURELY had to have fixed it with the m65 elite, right? bought the m65 elite and it started having issues not even two months into using it. pisses me the hell off.
Cheers mate this worked like a charm on the m65 and m65 pro! For anyone else trying this, I was able to get the switch cover off with needle-nose pliers without taking the circuit board out of the mouse or disconnecting any of the buttons. Just grab it from the top (switch cover) and try to lift up one side, rocking it back and forth til one of the little cover caps pops loose!
Well, after fumbling the little copper spring replacement a few times, I finally got it replaced. Now one click is deeper than the other, but I figure the worst case is I would have had to buy some soldering tools and just replace the whole piece, so I'm happy. Thanks!
agreed, my razor naga lasted me 7 fuking years of hardcore clicking, i just bought this mouse 4months ago and theres already mechanical issues with it.
I'm afraid it affects a lot of mice. I'm on Corsair Scimitar RGB - and - plastic inside the shell to push the switches wore out after 2 years of clicking (just outside of RMA) - I used some glue and scavenged bits of plastic from mouthwash bottle and the mouse has been working fine for 2 months, now the switch started failing on me. Now I'll sand the switch, but I have a cheapo $10 mouse, which has been working for almost a decade of gaming on "non-heavy use" parts and these Corsairs just don't hold up. I'd say buyer beware.
Thank you so much for this, everything worked perfectly afterwards. It was really hard to open the switch and get the circuit board out of the mouse but it was totally worth the effort.
The mouse worked for 3 months, then the left mouse button no longer worked properly. With the help of your video, I was able to replace the micro switches. I'm curious how long the mouse will work now. Thanks for the tip. :-)
Thanks for posting this. It's driving me nuts. Update. I ordered some cherry switches. I did the sanding thing and it seemed better for about a week. Now it seems worse. Im going to try to replace both left and right click.
This method of yours probably should work, but as it seems to be a corrosion problem, I passed a clean contact without opening the mouse and solved it, thanks anyway for the excellent video.
What mine does is that sometimes randomly my left click is stuck as pressed until I click it again. Haven't been able to determine if I hear a click when I press again to unstick.. but I have read both things online that some people had it as an icue software issue and others as this mechanical issue like in the video. Don't know which one it is.
If you don't have the right tools and steady hands, don't try this! I'm a technician of 15 years and even I had a super hard time getting that copper piece back on, took about 10 tries. Thanks for the guide
This is deeply fixed it. sometime spray contact cleaner not enough to remove oxide but mine scroll wheel was broken. its axle too thin. The new M65 Pro Elite look like they use the same parts. it was bad designed.
it is funny that i have the same problem and looks like it happend on the beginning of march i just switched the lefthanded click to avoid buying a new one but now i can maybe repair it. I still waiting for the screws to arrive.
it's working for me untill now, before this i had to blow with warm air into the mouse, but i hope this solution is permanent, thank you, i'll comment here again if this only worked for a short time
Damn after watching this video, I resolved the issue by buying a cheaper $40 bucks mouse this time. This way I wouldn't have to worry of it failing on me 2 years down the road as it will be less of a pain to switch by then. My hats off to the folks that took the trouble to do this.
When i pulled off the little box with the copper inside, that white thing who fits the surface just flew away for somewhere, can i replace that or something ?
You forgot to mention how INSANELY HARD it is to put that copper piece back in and without bending it. I've professionally repaired smartphones from big companies like Apple and Samsung, and I have yet to find a harder and more annoying repair yet than installing that little copper plate for this mouse. (needless to say I failed and bent it) fuck.
Seems to have worked really well. Right click seemed to give me 1 double click after a few hundred on the test site so I did the same thing there. I didn't have sand paper handy so I just used the fine rigid teeth on my ifixit tweezers and it did the job.
Dude, thanks a lot for the video, I was on the verge of opening my mouse to clean the top of it which seems to be forever sticky, clean or not, and decided to search for a solution to double click, since my side buttons were awful, and the main ones weren't too great. It worked, my mouse is like new rn, absolutely 0 double click. But I have to say that the main switches were sketchy to remove and put back the contact, I bent it a couple times, but it's fixable.
F yah, have a corsair m65 pro rgb. THIS DID THE TRICK!!! saved me from rebuying! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! btw you make putting on that little copper switch back on wayyyyyy easier then it actually is lol. THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCHHHH!!!
Thank you for this! Putting the copper spring back on sucked, though Only downside is that my left click is more muffled, but that's such a minor thing that it doesn't really matter
@@source.mydelusions i ended up doing it in two days because i decided to start late in the evening and just needed to sleep because it was taking so long. left click is still good here
so im assuming this isn't a permanent solution? and i guess if you buy the micro switches you can just take the contacts out rather than having to deal with all the soldering and just use the pieces inside for when after the first sanding needs redoing or does the first time fix it permanently?
Just wanted to say thank you way passed when this came out as this helped me with a different problem. My middle mouse button stopped working but seeing you take yours apart was a great guide on how to get this done without breaking anything.
Cheers!
Corsair M65s are my jam and have been for years. I've got one sitting in a box that I broke the scroll wheel on when I tried to take it apart to clean it last year and my newer one just started double-clicking yesterday. Hence why I've watched this video. My original idea was to find out how to replace the faulty switch with the perfectly fine one from my old mouse. But now that I see soldering is involved for that to happen, it just dawned on me that I can put my newer scroll wheel into the older mouse in place of the one I broke.
I realize that none of that has anything to do with this video, but still, thank you for taking the time to show everyone how it's done.
aw man. If you watched the whole video you would have seen that you don't actually need to solder anything. well your solution worked all the same I suppose so good on you. :P
This video was absolutely awesome. Another tip for you all in the comment section: At the end of re-assembly, I was driving myself crazy trying to get the mouse 1 button to click normally after clicking the cover back into place. Turns out the screw underneath mouse 1 attaching the motherboard to the mouse needed to be tightened a bit more to get the correct spacing. Mouse is now as good as new! I got this for free from a friend so totally worth a bit of tinkering, now I have a nice mouse for my first gaming PC 👌
You have saved me from buying a new mouse, but more importantly from replacing one of my favorite mice Thank You!
you sanded the button or replaced the whole switch ? and did it work ?
@@maliknirvana1890 i sanded the button. There was some corrosion and i sanded it away. Worked for me
My m65 started double clicking a few weeks ago and I've been heartbroken thinking I'm gonna have to get a new one. Now I have some hope!
If anyone is watching this 2024, its still pretty much the same on newer. Bottom screws better hidden but still same spot. One thing I do have to say that top sensitivity buttons ribbon cable lock is really easy to shoot in the high heaven and lose it forever. For me button reassembly took a couple tries to get it right. Also button cover is much much easier to remove on newer versions. Good luck!
I clicked 'Like' for this video but my Corsair mouse double clicked and now it's gone... :(
Did the same to this comment lmao
@@ZachNagy Did the same to this comment lmao
My switch completely went blank. Not even double clicking, straight up not working. I did this with no experience and managed to do it. Thank you SO much, you're a lifesaver
Excellent tutorial! What I found most difficult is to replace the cover after the whole operation. And also to reposition the metal clicking part inside the button. Be careful not to use force on it; if it bends, it will loose its clicking ability. I managed to bend it back, since I was a little too brute the first time
Word of warning: when you pop off the switch for the button, point it TOWARD the table, or else the miniscule button on the interior of the switch will LAUNCH into oblivion, never to be found again
what the FUCK. This literally just happened to me…
@@cuttersarekey Yep same here. It took me 20 minutes to find the damn thing myself.
Came here to say this. Also I found mine in about 30 seconds, miracles do happen! Good luck with your mice everyone!
Lol, the same thing happened to me, except i was lucky enough to see where mine went.
I tried to thumb this up but my mouse double clicked it back down. I carefully thumbed it up to be sure.
Of course, it only took me 3 hours to do this because when assembling it back, the copper piece bent. But thanks to you, I saved some cash and got to fix something, which is always entertaining. Thank you so much!
Ah man. You are a legend. Just today I was about to go and get a new mouse in the shop, but then I decided to see if I can find something. Did exactly what you showed on my Harpoon RGB. Before the fix had 19 double clicks out of 100. After the fix 0 double clicks out of 200. You saved me around 70 euro. Thanks a lot. Best of luck. :)
Thanks for the video! Helped me fix my M65. Looks like they redesigned the boards inside and made it a lot easier to reach the switches. Only had to remove the top cover and the board with the switches itself. No ribbon or power cable removal needed at all!
I don't usually leave comments but I will make an exception: THANK YOU! Very helpful and simple information, I was desperate having to change my mouse, but I followed your instructions and it worked wonders! :)
As some others said: the tricky part is placing the metal part back in place as it needs to be properly fitted to keep its clicking properties. Just take your time and don't put too much force into it.
all that in 13 min. I am impressed. Thank you for this video, very helpful. Damn Corsair and their dbl clicks.
My mouse wasn’t double clicking but it didn’t register all left clicks. Your manipulation worked for me ! Thanks you very much !!
"Deteriorates over time" I just have this mouse for 2 months....
this video explains the problem... Get the Japanese switch instead of the china version. th-cam.com/video/v5BhECVlKJA/w-d-xo.html
Is a classic legal scam(Planned obsolescence) that companies can made in order to keep consumers buying their products constantly. For years there were people trying to do something about that but with no avail.
Buy a mouse that has optical switches (not to be confused with optical sensor) red dragon makes one
@@SpyderBlackOfficial Good idea. Which mouse from red dragon has optical switches? I see Razor and Roccat offer them.
@@SpyderBlackOfficial I was thinking about that but im worried those will get really bad if you spill something or even just if the mouse picks up some dust.
Crazy that TH-cam recommended me this video of my exact mouse right when I started experiencing this exact issue.
Thanks for the in depth video. You covered all the bases however this is the last Corsair "gaming" mouse i'll ever buy. Three months later and left click stopped ( mouse was never dropped) functioning properly. Take it apart and the little blue button wasn't all the way out and the underlying copper conductor was bent from regular use.
Thank you for this! It worked perfectly! My mouse could barely go 4 clicks without double clicking, after sanding the contacts like you showed now I can go 200 clicks with no issue! Getting the cover off was a bit nervewracking, and putting it back on was a bit finicky, but this was super easy, done in 30 minutes. For anyone who doesn't have the tools, the screws for the cover take a T6 Torx head, everything else is simple tools. Great tutorial!
I managed to fix this mouse with like one of those super tiny flat head screwdrivers you get with eye glasses and a finger nail file. If I can do it with these tools ur good lmao trust me I'm properly retarded when it comes to fixing super tiny stuff like this, this shit was ez
My left click started double clicking on my M65 RGB Elite a week ago, I followed this guide to repair it and its now working as it did when I got it, thank you! I opted to de-solder and solder on the entire switch. The switch inside the Corsair M65 RGB Elite mouse is actually a D2FC-F-K(50M) but the switches in your video description is what I ordered and used, as I didn't realize I had the elite and not the plain RGB version. It still works fine and the switches looked the same other than the section that you press to activate being white plastic instead of blue plastic, and all of the posts being full length instead of 1 being shorter.
Glad it worked out for you as I have the same exact mouse, going to do this exact method as well
Sanding the button worked like a charm for me. I'm amazed that I managed the disassembly and assembly since the only experience I have is with building desktop PCs (where everything is much larger) but it somehow worked using your video. Thanks a bunch! 👍
Saved my sanity bro. This mouse was literally driving me insane. Works great now after watching this. Appreciated.
For when? How many month worked fine since this reparation?
Really helpful, these switches are default for most mouses, and that repair worked for a newer gen of a corsair mouse. Thank you bro!
For people that attempt this repair, please note that the cobber has to be aligned properly for this to work, I had a few failed attempts at doing this
After only 1 month of usage, my mouse was absolutely unusable. (double clicking or not clicking at all 90% of the time )
This quick fix solved the issue so thanks a bunch !!!
Thank you so much for not using music. These quiet repair vids are informative but also relaxing, in a weird way. Any time there's music in videos like these, I just skip forward or mute.
This worked on my first attempt. It was a pretty hard process of uninstalling and reinstalling the parts but it is definitely worth the time. Just be mindful of where you place the parts, especially the mouse switch components.
I had the mouse for 4 months, and I thought I was crazy... thank you. This mouse should be recalled.
I have had my mouse for around 1 month and it already double clicks all the time
I hate it
Wow, are you still using the M65? I've been using mine since 2017 and this just happened to me today.
Worked like a charm, thanks for the video upload. Saved me from buying a new mouse or even a replacement switch!
I've used optical mice of different brands for years, but never had this type of problem with any of them. Thank you for figuring out the culprit, I'm going to try your cleaning method first and if that doesn't work, buy a different brand.
I've had my m65 since 28 october 2017 and the double click issue arrised about a year and a half into having the mouse.
It comes and goes but really you want to replace the switch with one designed for heavy use, i still havent and im now looking to buy a switch so i can solder it in.
Gotta love how corsair skimp out on nasty leafblade switches, they are the worst kind you could use that do not last long at all.
I hate how manufacturers are more concerned about making products which fail within a short period of use and need to be replaced, no one seems to make products that last.
Hi, wondering if you swapped out for a heavy use switch and which one you chose?
Well, I *tried* to post a message about Planned Obsolescence, and what would happen if governments were to ban it; BUT Jigsaw blocked me!
Jigsaw is a Google A.I. algorithm that checks ALL posts into the comments sections of TH-cam videos for words and phrases that have the potential to "offend" the snowflakes. Oh, I'll bet that Jigsaw was designed *by* snowflakes *for* snowflakes!
@@jeffzebert4982 no wonder why i see my comments deleted time to time, fucking AI
@@cyrotechnium This could well be part of TH-cam's plan to someday COMPLETELY do away with video Comments Sections! I mean, TH-cam has already disabled the Comments Sectiions of entire *categories* of videos -- including art tracks and videos "made for kids"! If it comes to TH-cam eliminating the Comments Sections completely, then we'll have to start creating Internet forums in order to continue to comment on TH-cam videos! After all, there has been, for YEARS now, a trend among websites to get rid of Comments Sections. For instance, the Weather Channel website used to have a Comments Section for each article; but not anymore.
Almost threw it away, then I found your video. THANK YOU! worked like a charm
Wanted to say thanks again for this video. Had to clean my contacts again and worked like a charm. Removed a ribbon cable this time to make things a little easier on myself.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I was getting mad since I need a properly working mouse for both design and gaming. Double clicking during work was a hell but couldn't afford a new good mouse. So my amateur ass decided to fix not only Corsair but also my old Genesis mouse that was about to be sent to recycling. I used Genesis as a try out and then went for Corsair. Now I have not only one working mouse but two! Both great rodents fixed thanks to your precise and clear instructions! CHERISH!
Thank you once more, my dude
This FIXED IT! Thank you so much! I was literally going to throw my mouse against a brick wall...
It worked. Just bought a brand new corsair m65 (2 months ago) Did exactly like the video and it worked like a charm! Im still testing today, but it worked instantly. One thing i noticed is that the click is now a bit more "heavy" its not bad, but definitly feels different from the left button and the right button. I think, over time the feel is gonna match again.
But, otherwise, Great video! Saved my mouse! I love this mouse, had one for 6 years and now bought the new one to use with icue.
I NEVER want to take apart my mouse AGAIN..!
But this did fix my issue yes. 100x thank you's my guy.
I've had the Corsair M65 about 3 years now, and it had the double click issue after about 2 years in, but recently was just horrible.
This video helped tremendously....I used 200 grain fine sandpaper (all I had in the garage), but after testing the repair at a fast double click javascript test page, no double-clicks after 200+ clicks, and it is working fine now.
Thanks for the great video!
Just wanted to say thanks so much. Been through 3 of these M65's pros and normal and all of them had the same issue. This time instead of replacing I decided to follow this guide and it worked straight away super easy to do. Thanks!
Since you explained why you did this operation, I knew it was not really my issue since my mouse is just a few weeks old. It started doubleclicking after I had it in my backpack with my laptop and lots of books. That little copper piece on top, inside the switch was bent. But now it is fixed. I did it on a Harpoon.
just the perfect video I was looking for.
I'm experiencing double click on my corsair m65 for the past weeks now.
thank you for this nice video!
good thing I have precision tools.
It took me 30 minutes to refasten the tiny copper-plate. Hint: At its mouse-front-facing end, It will hover just 0,1 mm down on the holder. Feeling after having it fixed: I made fire! Priceless. Thank you :)
mine is barely 2 months old and it's already double clicking. I lost the receipt so they won't replace my mouse. This fixed the issue and very easy to do thanks to your tutorial. Thanks a lot!
My warranty expired, so this saved my life! You earned a like!
sanded the button or changed the switch ? and did it work ?
@@maliknirvana1890 I sanded the button
Same here, I got a new one from RMA the first time, but no warranty this time. Sanded it (was mostly covered in oxidation) and now works like new.
Great info!!! My mouse kept deselecting or dropping the "drag and drop". After watching your video I just use more force to hold down the button and it works great!!! I never thought the switch/button would have physically warned out as per your video (and not software at fault). Thank you!!! Great insight!!! Maybe you can tag my problem to your clip
Ty man this helped me repair my m95 mouse. I had it over 8 years. Works like new now👍💪
This is a really relaxing guide. Mouse no longer double clicks. I may have damaged it a bit, so it no longer makse a clicking sound, whenever i press on the button.
Took the mouse apart a second time. The small copper part was not seated correctly, so it wasn't making full contact and thus failed to make a clicking sound.
Can confirm this works! Saved me from buying a new one, thanks a ton! Who would've thought it was that easy?
Thank you so much! I benefitted immensely from your vid and I was able to sand the switch like in your vid. They were almost black with corrosion. Works better now than when I got the mouse new. Many thanks!
Absolute lifesaver! Worked first time! I gave the copper parts of the microswitch a little swab down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any skin oils from it though - not a necessary extra step, but probably worth doing.
THANK YOU SO MUCH I HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM FOR WEEKS NOW AND NOW ITS GONE I LOVE YOU!
Great video! Also, for those without sandpaper at home: a normal nail file does the trick too! Worked for me.
Thanks, that’s a great idea
Just tried this on a newer M65 Pro, and it worked like a charm. Button no longer double clicks, and feels snappier and more responsive as well. The newer version is a bit simpler inside, so there are less cables to disconnect, and the screws are al philips head.
Well after 2 years of Minecraft PVP my left click started becoming less and less responsive, Followed this tutorial and its feels so much nicer. Thanks for the vid man, very helpful.
My middle mouse wheel button still kinda eats ass and I have to press very hard on it to get a response, but this helped a bunch.
Followed this on an M65 RGB Elite, tricky bit I found getting the contact off and on but other than that a breeze, working a treat now. I used to have to press hard to get a contact and 20 in a 100 were fast doubles but not one now, thanks for the help!
Thanks, brother. I love the shape of the corsair m65 but I've had two of them break on me. This fix just saved mine for (hopefully) a while longer.
Update, mouse is double clicking again
I just did this, and it worked great in the end, but it was quite hard to get the spring right. I have TWO main takeaways/tips.
1: There are small plastic parts that protrudes through the black little box. They can fall out, and it's hard to get back on the mouse with everything else going on. I solved it with tape. Best way to go around this is to from the start, before popping off the black cover, add a small piece of tape on the top of the cover, to make the plastic part stick to it and not fall out. Worked great for me that way.
2: The small metal springy part. It's not really a hock that holds it here, it's the tension from the small bended section that pushes the whole sheet forward. If you then put the opening over that other small pin it will stop it from moving forward and create tension. Holding it in place. I misunderstood that part initially and had a big issue getting it back together and click properly when pressed. I had to resort to opening another of the boxes to inspect more carefully before I took it apart. So a word of warning here. Check carefully on what sides of what pins that the different parts go and understand where the tension is before removing anything.
I could not go 30 click without a double click before with that test site, but can go over 200 clicks now and no error. So as far as I can tell it's perfectly fixed now. I just don't know for how long.
(Btw, my mouse model is a slightly newer version, so I didn't have the back cable. The LED is stuck to a chip there directly. So be prepared for slight variations.)
Oh, and I didn't use a sandpaper. I used the knife to scrape at the surface to make it clean and flat. Maybe not the best. But this means I could do it with just a screwdriver, a knife and a set of small tweezers. (+ regular tape for the solution mentioned above)
Good tip. Will have to fix the switch of my M65 RGB one of these days, so anything that makes it smoother is great.
@@Tech2Rush One more recommendation. I only fixed my left and right mouse button at the time, but my middle mouse button is bad now as well. So if you actually take the time to open the mouse, it might be just as well to fix all buttons at once. Just to save you time later.
Good luck with your fix.
@@Gafgar Thank you for your tips, though I only did the left button, as I basically never use the middle click, and quitting mobas before I got this mouse means the right button sees very little use compared to the left. I did do the tape trick, and I imagine that saved me some fiddling.
On another note, I completed the switch cleaning without removing any wires, just carefully leaving the circuit boards and top connected. To clean the actual switch I only removed the plastic cover, then slid a thin strip (1.5mm*40mm?) of sand paper between the contact points, gently pressed the switch and pulled the sandpaper through the assembled switch. I did this 3 times with the sandpaper face down, and 3 times face up, before reassembling the mouse. No more double clicks 😎
omg I could have just left the spring assembled xD I can't seem to put it back together
Also the middle mouse button doesn't seem to have an openable switch so I just put some rubbing alcohol on it and blew on it xD not sure if it's gonna do the trick but yea
worked like a charm, word of warning, be carful not to bend the coper pices or just know you will have to bend them back. It uses tension to work. Wish they would fix/ or make this part a better quality.
Thanks my man, never would have thought to tackle the existing switches. Works great now as I had both buttons double clicking. That shim on top of the switch is very fiddly to get back on though. Had to disassemble twice because of it.
What's the link of the page where you were testing your mouse?
holy shit, *thank you* .
I asked for a new mouse for Christmas, but was going to get rid of this one....but now that I did this, I may continue to use it and just hold onto the other one I'm getting for when this one officially craps out on me.
unfortunately, I broke the plastic hinge that fastens/safely holds the wire connection for the DPI/DPI RGB on the top of the case, to the circuit board (near the forward/back wire connections).
It still works, but I know eventually that thing is gonna give. At least it's to something that I don't really deem important (especially the RGB for the DPI setting).
At any rate, used the double click test, and did over 100 clicks from slow to very fast, and it didn't detect a single one! Who'd thought that gently sanding some copper would fix such an easy, yet complex problem!
All the more, thanks a bundle! Be safe, and have a wonderful holiday season! :D
Thanks for the video! I'm going to try it out later. I don't why the buttons on a cheap mice from back in the day seem indestructible but the expensive ones often screw up too easily these days. My third gaming mouse within 4 years that has a double click issue without any good reasons for it. Might as well invest in a whole soldering kit and replace the switch than to buying a new mouse each year. Wish me luck!
Saved my m65 and my mood, also the planet cause I don't buy a new one. Really great how-to. Thumbs Up
I have the opposite issue on my Elite, sometimes it skips clicks and I have to press harder.. very annoying.. any solution??
miss click and double click are similar issues: bad contact. I think this tutorial should help you
I bought TWO of this stupid mouse. The first one, about 8 months into use it started with double clicking. We did everything to fix it - spraying air (worked for a week), uninstalling iCue (did nothing), and then finally using this video. It fixed it for about 2 weeks and then back to double clicking. I read online that the faulty parts were upgraded in the newer models of this mouse - so stupidly, I purchased another from Best Buy. Not even a month and a half later - DOUBLE CLICKING AGAIN. I love the model of the mouse and I am extremely mad and bummed out at this quality of this. I'm not hard on my mouse at all, and there's no excuse for it wearing down as fast as it does. I'm done with this brand. Hope this is a useful warning to anyone stumbling on this video for a fix.
holy hell yes. i absolutely love the look, the feel, and everything about this mouse. i had the m65 pro and didn't have issues for an entire year. figured that they SURELY had to have fixed it with the m65 elite, right? bought the m65 elite and it started having issues not even two months into using it. pisses me the hell off.
Cheers mate this worked like a charm on the m65 and m65 pro!
For anyone else trying this, I was able to get the switch cover off with needle-nose pliers without taking the circuit board out of the mouse or disconnecting any of the buttons. Just grab it from the top (switch cover) and try to lift up one side, rocking it back and forth til one of the little cover caps pops loose!
Well, after fumbling the little copper spring replacement a few times, I finally got it replaced. Now one click is deeper than the other, but I figure the worst case is I would have had to buy some soldering tools and just replace the whole piece, so I'm happy.
Thanks!
"Deteriorates over time" - Using my 3rd RMA in a span of 6 months. Whatever the hell Omron is doing, they're doing it wrong.
agreed, my razor naga lasted me 7 fuking years of hardcore clicking, i just bought this mouse 4months ago and theres already mechanical issues with it.
@@rickiex Got mine less than 2 months ago and its already doing this.
@@tarilen probably refurbished model then same goes for rickiex if you bought from amazon they sometimes do sketchy shit and sell refurbished as new
@@user-yc8xb2iz9w yea it was from Amazon. I'll be doing an rma in the interim. If it continues I'll try this out.
I'm afraid it affects a lot of mice. I'm on Corsair Scimitar RGB - and - plastic inside the shell to push the switches wore out after 2 years of clicking (just outside of RMA) - I used some glue and scavenged bits of plastic from mouthwash bottle and the mouse has been working fine for 2 months, now the switch started failing on me. Now I'll sand the switch, but I have a cheapo $10 mouse, which has been working for almost a decade of gaming on "non-heavy use" parts and these Corsairs just don't hold up. I'd say buyer beware.
Thank you so much for this, everything worked perfectly afterwards. It was really hard to open the switch and get the circuit board out of the mouse but it was totally worth the effort.
The mouse worked for 3 months, then the left mouse button no longer worked properly. With the help of your video, I was able to replace the micro switches. I'm curious how long the mouse will work now.
Thanks for the tip. :-)
thanks for the video. just fixed my mouse double click issue following your video and saved few bucks
Thanks for making this. I replaced my switches but the info was still very helpful for me. Much appreciated!
Thanks for posting this. It's driving me nuts. Update. I ordered some cherry switches. I did the sanding thing and it seemed better for about a week. Now it seems worse. Im going to try to replace both left and right click.
2:12 that small black bar broke in my mouse when I tried to get the cable out. Can I get them somewhere or is this thing even required?
This method of yours probably should work, but as it seems to be a corrosion problem, I passed a clean contact without opening the mouse and solved it, thanks anyway for the excellent video.
What mine does is that sometimes randomly my left click is stuck as pressed until I click it again. Haven't been able to determine if I hear a click when I press again to unstick.. but I have read both things online that some people had it as an icue software issue and others as this mechanical issue like in the video. Don't know which one it is.
If you don't have the right tools and steady hands, don't try this! I'm a technician of 15 years and even I had a super hard time getting that copper piece back on, took about 10 tries.
Thanks for the guide
Just followed this to fix my M65 and seems like it worked, thanks for the great instructions
Thank you so much. This took me like an hour and a half but you saved my mouse.
This is deeply fixed it. sometime spray contact cleaner not enough to remove oxide but mine scroll wheel was broken. its axle too thin. The new M65 Pro Elite look like they use the same parts. it was bad designed.
You just saved my mouse from a trash can! Thank you for the easy to follow tutorial!
Well hot damn just got done cleaning the switch surfaces and my god its like new again. Thanks for the DIY video.
it is funny that i have the same problem and looks like it happend on the beginning of march i just switched the lefthanded click to avoid buying a new one but now i can maybe repair it. I still waiting for the screws to arrive.
I tried to fix my double clicking issue. Ended up breaking the mouse lmao.
Same fml
@@Sora-o same here
How did it happen? It worked for me, just had a couple incidents where I bent he contacts, but I bent them back.
@@mateuscampello contact broke for me.... i just ended up getting a razer vaper ultimate.
@@mateuscampello I'm just not good with really small parts that were inside that mouse I guess.
You sir, saved me a lot of money on a new mouse! I salute you.
it's working for me untill now, before this i had to blow with warm air into the mouse, but i hope this solution is permanent, thank you, i'll comment here again if this only worked for a short time
Great tutorial, glad I found this before buying a new mouse. Thanks!
Damn after watching this video, I resolved the issue by buying a cheaper $40 bucks mouse this time. This way I wouldn't have to worry of it failing on me 2 years down the road as it will be less of a pain to switch by then. My hats off to the folks that took the trouble to do this.
When i pulled off the little box with the copper inside, that white thing who fits the surface just flew away for somewhere, can i replace that or something ?
Man I been looking for this for a long time
And I knew I found the right one the moment he use the same site I used to test it
You forgot to mention how INSANELY HARD it is to put that copper piece back in and without bending it. I've professionally repaired smartphones from big companies like Apple and Samsung, and I have yet to find a harder and more annoying repair yet than installing that little copper plate for this mouse. (needless to say I failed and bent it) fuck.
Seems to have worked really well.
Right click seemed to give me 1 double click after a few hundred on the test site so I did the same thing there.
I didn't have sand paper handy so I just used the fine rigid teeth on my ifixit tweezers and it did the job.
Dope video man fixed my button, used my skateboard grip tape was a bit scared but was a success at the end
Dude, thanks a lot for the video, I was on the verge of opening my mouse to clean the top of it which seems to be forever sticky, clean or not, and decided to search for a solution to double click, since my side buttons were awful, and the main ones weren't too great. It worked, my mouse is like new rn, absolutely 0 double click. But I have to say that the main switches were sketchy to remove and put back the contact, I bent it a couple times, but it's fixable.
I have the M65 than bought the M65 Elite and same problem on both. TY for your time great vid.
F yah, have a corsair m65 pro rgb. THIS DID THE TRICK!!! saved me from rebuying! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! btw you make putting on that little copper switch back on wayyyyyy easier then it actually is lol. THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCHHHH!!!
Thank you for this! Putting the copper spring back on sucked, though
Only downside is that my left click is more muffled, but that's such a minor thing that it doesn't really matter
Its been 2 hours since i started trying to do this, how did you manage? L0l
@@source.mydelusions i ended up doing it in two days because i decided to start late in the evening and just needed to sleep because it was taking so long. left click is still good here
Thanks for the tutorial! It was tough but this did work
My button4 started doing this double-click thing. Thanks for sharing your fix :)
What font are you using for the "HOW TO FIX...?"
so im assuming this isn't a permanent solution? and i guess if you buy the micro switches you can just take the contacts out rather than having to deal with all the soldering and just use the pieces inside for when after the first sanding needs redoing or does the first time fix it permanently?