I enjoy watching your electrical videos because like you, I like doing electrical work on our old British cars. I agree with your approach of making everything available to everyone. I am one of your Patreon supporters and I don't feel cheated at all. I do my little bit to support this wonderful resource and that's enough "reward" for me. I can't afford to support every channel that I watch, but Rusty Beauties is worth it.
As I've said in the past you are the 'king' of automotive wiring.. In the past I've found dash switches that look perfectly good, but wont function .. I wasted hours trying to figure out these sorts of curved balls that really end up with no real answer as to why they decide to fail when they were apparently ( according to car owners) working before I disturbed them 😅.. Great video Elin, especially for those wrestling with the same issues right now.
There is one really good thing about Lucas Wiring, the colour coding! I won't use any incorrectly colour coded cables on my Triumph, unless it is for a non original accessory. You can get the correct colour coded cables from Autosparks in Nottingham, UK, who are cheaper, even with shipping, and faster than British Wiring in the USA.
The reason the gauge illumination lights don't "dim" is that LED lights don't dim by varying the voltage through a rheostat, but by "switching" the current flow at varying speeds. You will need an electronic dimmer designed for LEDs. Same with the flashers if you convert to LEDs for the external lighting (a very good thing to do BTW).
Oh yeah, I know and I didn't expect them to dim. I actually have a few LED dimmers that actually can carry up to 30 Amp (not that I need that much). I am not sure if John would like me to invest time in making one fit though. It is gonna require some work, that might not be needed. As long as the lights work that might be OK for John, I need to ask him.
Working on my "forever" Spitfire...I am about to inspect the full harness on the bench.. it seems in good shape but I will inspect and change as needed any connectors. Looks can be deceiving after years of being taken on and off they loose their tight fit. I am plan on adding some extra protection too. All modern vehicles use relays and fuses in horn and headlight circuits for good reason yes these worked in their day but so did rubbing 2 sticks together to light your stove. Thanks Elin !
Elin, thanks for walking all of us through the wiring puzzle with you; I find myself getting confused when the diagram differs from what is in the car!
The flasher and wires progress over to the passenger side to the right of glove box area. There is often a clasp cup mounted in on the ""A" post footwell.
Very educational and never boring! I like those green LEDs in the instruments, too. BTW, I have been meaning to mention what a genius idea that was to put that giant TV screen up on the wall. It makes it so easy to follow your thinking when discussing the wiring diagrams. Thanks a lot, Elin.
Thanks Bruce! I didn't think of that until the TV fell in my lap :) Then I thought it would be great to use it as a white board in my videos and also watch some TH-cam while working as well :)
There are two brands of switches on Triumphs, those made by Lucas, which are good, and those made by 'Clear Hooters' which are dreadful. The Rocker switches that you took apart are by Clear Hooters.
Elin, Is that a standard heavyduty headlight harness you sourced or did it come from a TR6 supplier? Would be interested in getting one for when I get to this point with my restoration.
LEDs for gauge lights, use soft white, rather than bright white! I used bright white, but they looked terrible, then I changed them to soft white which looked much better! Although green look OK too!
Depends on the gauges. I used bright white on a TR250 and they were way too bright, so I changed to warm white. But these gauges have green bezzles inside and break the light a little bit. I like how they lit up in the dark garage
Hi Elin! Love your work. Keep it up. About that loose wire under the dashboard, didn't TR's (At least from TR-4's onwards) have a dimmer for the instruments? Or am I confusing things..?
Yes, the dimmer was connected. It takes the red/white wires though. This wire is probably for the blower motor switch. I was just not in the mood of investigating any further at that time of the day. I was ready to go in and start editing the video :)
The relays for the headlamps is a good idea, but introducing only 2 fuses is not good/safe practice. If the fuse blows or gets a bad connection, both lights will go out! Not very good on a twisty country road, If you must fit fuses, best way is fit 4 (2 dip and 2 main) down stream of the relays, That way, if you get an issue, only one light goes out. That kit looks like a generic kit for all old cars sourced out of China? The battery gauge ought to be fed with a switched ignition wire (green circuit), no, t spurred off the Ammeter bypass, otherwise it'll read all the time. The other fuses you want to fit are not needed either. The Lucas engineers knew what they were doing. I worked as an auto electrician for 40 years on old british cars and the wiring systems were just as good as anyones, and better than most.
Yes, you are right about the fuses, but fitting two fuses after the relays leaves the wires before the relay unprotected. So it is a trade. Many cars have one fuse for both lights and knowing John, I don't think he will drive in pitch dark on a wavy country roads. You are right, but I think I will go with fuses as close as possible to the power source. 100% agree with the voltmeter comment. I didn't think of that. If we go with a voltmeter I will have to run a switched power wire to it. Thanks! I am curious why you think the other fuses are not needed. A friend of mine's concourse TR6 caught fire after a short in the harness, which could have been prevented with a simple fuse. I also worked on a positive ground TR4 that had a ground wire totally stripped from overheating and touching other wires around. So, many of the circuits being unprotected scares me to death. I am just curious why do you think adding fuses is not needed! I also think there is nothing wrong with the Lucas harnesses, as long as some of the design flows are corrected. Not saying the Lucas engineers didn't know what they were doing. I just think that they were forced to cut some corners and trade some risk for cost efficiency.
Millions of british cars of the 30's to the 70's ran with few or no fuses. UK Fords up to the mid 60's had none at all. Under the Lucas system the ignition circui, charge light, oil pressure and brake warning lamps were all unfused. The fuses the more possible poor connections If the loom is fitted correctly with all the OEM grommets and loom clips in face it'll be perfectly ok. In my experience any issues with british car wiring is caused by folk messing about and introducing problems.@@RustyBeauties
Probably. I will have to clean it first as it looked like there is a grey or beige tracer, which is weird. The fan wire should be solid green. I will figure it out. I just didn't feel like going any further that night.
One time I bought little audio amps from China, and the they printed a circuit board with chips that lit up leds and a speaker but it was fake. None of them worked. They put all this effort in to make a kind of Boobie trap. That’s what that “wiring diagram” reminds me of. It’s an artistic interpretation of what a working circuit is 😂😂.
Crack a lacking. Say something nice about that GT6 in the background. The marker lights would look good as flashers and marker light combo. Aren't there volt/amp gauge combos? Alternatively you could cut a new hole in the dash for both OEM meters.
Yeah, I need to dedicate a day of the week to the GT6 again, but the owner is cheap and doesn't pay much LOL! I don't think an amp gauge is needed at all. So it is OK if we convert to a voltmeter, but it is up to John
I enjoy watching your electrical videos because like you, I like doing electrical work on our old British cars.
I agree with your approach of making everything available to everyone. I am one of your Patreon supporters and I don't feel cheated at all. I do my little bit to support this wonderful resource and that's enough "reward" for me. I can't afford to support every channel that I watch, but Rusty Beauties is worth it.
Elin, you’ll be the only person working on my car, but the documentation is priceless. Keep going !!
Yup, worth the wait to have Elin restore your car!!
That wiring harnesses looks good 👍.
As I've said in the past you are the 'king' of automotive wiring.. In the past I've found dash switches that look perfectly good, but wont function .. I wasted hours trying to figure out these sorts of curved balls that really end up with no real answer as to why they decide to fail when they were apparently ( according to car owners) working before I disturbed them 😅.. Great video Elin, especially for those wrestling with the same issues right now.
Elin, you explain everything so well, even I’m learning about my cars wiring. Thanks, she’s lookin’ great.
Great video, I admire your patience fault finding. Well done. Have a great weekend!!
There is one really good thing about Lucas Wiring, the colour coding! I won't use any incorrectly colour coded cables on my Triumph, unless it is for a non original accessory. You can get the correct colour coded cables from Autosparks in Nottingham, UK, who are cheaper, even with shipping, and faster than British Wiring in the USA.
The reason the gauge illumination lights don't "dim" is that LED lights don't dim by varying the voltage through a rheostat, but by "switching" the current flow at varying speeds. You will need an electronic dimmer designed for LEDs. Same with the flashers if you convert to LEDs for the external lighting (a very good thing to do BTW).
Oh yeah, I know and I didn't expect them to dim. I actually have a few LED dimmers that actually can carry up to 30 Amp (not that I need that much). I am not sure if John would like me to invest time in making one fit though. It is gonna require some work, that might not be needed. As long as the lights work that might be OK for John, I need to ask him.
Working on my "forever" Spitfire...I am about to inspect the full harness on the bench.. it seems in good shape but I will inspect and change as needed any connectors. Looks can be deceiving after years of being taken on and off they loose their tight fit. I am plan on adding some extra protection too. All modern vehicles use relays and fuses in horn and headlight circuits for good reason yes these worked in their day but so did rubbing 2 sticks together to light your stove. Thanks Elin !
Elin, thanks for walking all of us through the wiring puzzle with you; I find myself getting confused when the diagram differs from what is in the car!
The flasher and wires progress over to the passenger side to the right of glove box area. There is often a clasp cup mounted in on the ""A" post footwell.
This was a really helpful video Elin, thanks for taking the time to walk us through these details.
Very educational and never boring! I like those green LEDs in the instruments, too. BTW, I have been meaning to mention what a genius idea that was to put that giant TV screen up on the wall. It makes it so easy to follow your thinking when discussing the wiring diagrams. Thanks a lot, Elin.
Thanks Bruce! I didn't think of that until the TV fell in my lap :) Then I thought it would be great to use it as a white board in my videos and also watch some TH-cam while working as well :)
There are two brands of switches on Triumphs, those made by Lucas, which are good, and those made by 'Clear Hooters' which are dreadful. The Rocker switches that you took apart are by Clear Hooters.
Very nice,getting the wiring working property is a big step.great video, great job.just continue on doing what your doing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Elin, Is that a standard heavyduty headlight harness you sourced or did it come from a TR6 supplier? Would be interested in getting one for when I get to this point with my restoration.
That heavy duty headlight harness was a pain for me too due to no schematic and strange coloring.
Antique electrics! God love them! 😂🤣
LEDs for gauge lights, use soft white, rather than bright white! I used bright white, but they looked terrible, then I changed them to soft white which looked much better! Although green look OK too!
Depends on the gauges. I used bright white on a TR250 and they were way too bright, so I changed to warm white. But these gauges have green bezzles inside and break the light a little bit. I like how they lit up in the dark garage
My modern electronic flasher unit failed recently, it hasn't had much use for quite a long time, and the points were stuck fast!
Well, as all the electronics nowadays they ate pretty cheaply made too
Great video but my car has that same relay and light with the purple and orange wire but am dumbfounded where it go.
Hey Elin... what colour red is that.... its fantastic
It’s Ferrari Rosso Corsa. Thanks I think it looks good too. A few runs, but a bit of wet sanding and a good buff should hep. Can’t wait to drive her,
She looks amazing John
@@johnmalone407Lovely car… but I’d keep the original early black gauges from the TR5 / GT6 Mk2 era, not the later 70s Leyland era ones…
I think you might be right. I will talk with Elin, I think I will need to clean the old ones up and see what they look like!@@johnmoruzzi7236
Thanks!@@anthonygowland8363
Great work do you have any vids how you put in in line fuses still using my original harness just want to be safer ty.
I will film that on this car so stay tuned
I love long video 😃
Hi Elin! Love your work. Keep it up. About that loose wire under the dashboard, didn't TR's (At least from TR-4's onwards) have a dimmer for the instruments? Or am I confusing things..?
Yes, the dimmer was connected. It takes the red/white wires though. This wire is probably for the blower motor switch. I was just not in the mood of investigating any further at that time of the day. I was ready to go in and start editing the video :)
The relays for the headlamps is a good idea, but introducing only 2 fuses is not good/safe practice. If the fuse blows or gets a bad connection, both lights will go out! Not very good on a twisty country road, If you must fit fuses, best way is fit 4 (2 dip and 2 main) down stream of the relays, That way, if you get an issue, only one light goes out. That kit looks like a generic kit for all old cars sourced out of China?
The battery gauge ought to be fed with a switched ignition wire (green circuit), no, t spurred off the Ammeter bypass, otherwise it'll read all the time.
The other fuses you want to fit are not needed either. The Lucas engineers knew what they were doing. I worked as an auto electrician for 40 years on old british cars and the wiring systems were just as good as anyones, and better than most.
Yes, you are right about the fuses, but fitting two fuses after the relays leaves the wires before the relay unprotected. So it is a trade. Many cars have one fuse for both lights and knowing John, I don't think he will drive in pitch dark on a wavy country roads. You are right, but I think I will go with fuses as close as possible to the power source.
100% agree with the voltmeter comment. I didn't think of that. If we go with a voltmeter I will have to run a switched power wire to it. Thanks!
I am curious why you think the other fuses are not needed. A friend of mine's concourse TR6 caught fire after a short in the harness, which could have been prevented with a simple fuse. I also worked on a positive ground TR4 that had a ground wire totally stripped from overheating and touching other wires around. So, many of the circuits being unprotected scares me to death. I am just curious why do you think adding fuses is not needed!
I also think there is nothing wrong with the Lucas harnesses, as long as some of the design flows are corrected. Not saying the Lucas engineers didn't know what they were doing. I just think that they were forced to cut some corners and trade some risk for cost efficiency.
Millions of british cars of the 30's to the 70's ran with few or no fuses. UK Fords up to the mid 60's had none at all.
Under the Lucas system the ignition circui, charge light, oil pressure and brake warning lamps were all unfused. The fuses the more possible poor connections If the loom is fitted correctly with all the OEM grommets and loom clips in face it'll be perfectly ok.
In my experience any issues with british car wiring is caused by folk messing about and introducing problems.@@RustyBeauties
Clear as muddy water Elin, I think you should come to Oz and I'll help you rewire my Healey, no charge to you by the way.
Oh, thank you... I was gonna ask if I could do that... LOL
Is that green wire the fan motor?
Probably. I will have to clean it first as it looked like there is a grey or beige tracer, which is weird. The fan wire should be solid green. I will figure it out. I just didn't feel like going any further that night.
@@RustyBeauties Elin, wait until you work on an older British car where the cloth coverings have all faded to a uniform brown. That makes it fun!
One time I bought little audio amps from China, and the they printed a circuit board with chips that lit up leds and a speaker but it was fake. None of them worked. They put all this effort in to make a kind of Boobie trap. That’s what that “wiring diagram” reminds me of. It’s an artistic interpretation of what a working circuit is 😂😂.
Exactly:)
Seems like a lot of people have trouble hooking up those headlight relays. Instructions usually not very good.
Crack a lacking.
Say something nice about that GT6 in the background.
The marker lights would look good as flashers and marker light combo.
Aren't there volt/amp gauge combos? Alternatively you could cut a new hole in the dash for both OEM meters.
Yeah, I need to dedicate a day of the week to the GT6 again, but the owner is cheap and doesn't pay much LOL!
I don't think an amp gauge is needed at all. So it is OK if we convert to a voltmeter, but it is up to John
Obviously, you need to read the instructions 1 through 7 on the back of the package. How's your Mandarin?
I read them, how do you think I figured out that the blue/white wire is ground LOL
Who's on 1st. ?
First!
Hi Jim (we could have gone first before you)- but we held back to give you that extra thrill! 😂🤣
wow, thanks, I am so thrilled I might have a heart attack. I think Elin was more thrilled to see the flashers working. @@philtucker1224