Good morning Elin, thank you so much for your inspiring videos. So much so that at 70 years young I am now realising my own dream of restoring my Austin Healey, so thank you again. I wish you and your family the happiest of CHRISTMASES AND THE BEST NEW YEAR EVER.
Hi Elin, that was a really neat fix, and a good money saver, enjoyed watching!! Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Feliz navidad from Spain!!
Hi Elin. That switch is very similar to what is used in my ‘74 Jag XJ6. They are simple but maddening. The switches for the window winders are overly complicated with many wires. Only one window at a time can operate starting with the driver’s door. Each switch has small brass connections that press against points to raise or lower the windows. Using that switch then cuts off the power to the next window in the line. A fellow owner with the same car as mine had to call me because he had disconnected all the window switches and couldn’t figure it out when putting it all back together. The colour codes didn’t match up to the Haynes manual.
The guts of that switch is probably used for different applications. Throw a spring in that tube that presses on the rocker and you have a switch that returns to the default position when released. The return spring is held in place by the tube you ground down.
Nice repair. I would have wired the switch the other way so that when you push the top the hazards come on. Most switches are moved up to engage and pushing the top matches moving the switch up. Think of rocker switches for house lights. You press to the top to turn the lights on.
Just like you that is how I am used to turn things on, push the top… but in the UK it is the other way around. So I don’t know about the hazard lights, but the headlights for sure are this way, push the bottom to turn them on. So I just matches that.
@@RustyBeauties It looks like I learned something today. It makes sense if you push the bottom of the headlight switch to turn it on then the hazard switch should work the same way. My TR3 doesn't have "modern" switches like a TR6.
Great diagnosis and repairs of those pesky switches Elin. Like Doug (Texas), I too thought the small tube inside the switch might accommodate a 12V neon bulb , but these things can fool you as those switches were probably used on other models ..Hope you & yours have a great Christmas and new year. Thanks for all the great videos you've done for us over the last year.
Yes, these units are worth rebuilding. My pet gripe is the number of wires and amount of current concentrated to the switch. Personally, a high quality Aircraft switch would be better, safer.
I’m guessing but I think the spring has relaxed with age. I wonder if you stretched it increasing its natural length what the result might be with an unmodified housing.
This round part is for a light und the pin on one side , so you see the light by night, put not grease on the bottem, is better on the black part over the spring. Or the parts are to old and the wear out.
Elin, nice work on that $witch repair! I wonder what the current draw is when the hazard flashers are on; that amperage might explain why the plastic 'guide channel' was melted/damaged? Happy Holidays to you and yours!
LOL... I laughed because I've been there and done that except you showed both problems with that kind of switch. Simply that they get dirty. When dirty they can get hot because of the resistance to flow. With old "flasher" they draw more current so I would often install a relay but do the new model ones draw less current so a relay is not nessary?
Good morning Elin, thank you so much for your inspiring videos. So much so that at 70 years young I am now realising my own dream of restoring my Austin Healey, so thank you again. I wish you and your family the happiest of CHRISTMASES AND THE BEST NEW YEAR EVER.
Great job! Over 300$ saved!
That switch is used in dozens of Triumph and. Fotos Leyland models so very useful info!
Nice little fix,saved money,that’s what counts.your the man.just keep doing what your doing 😎😎😎👍👍👍
Merry Christmas and a healthy New Year to you and your family.
Hi Elin, that was a really neat fix, and a good money saver, enjoyed watching!! Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Feliz navidad from Spain!!
Great job Elin, I have a 1973 triumph TR6 and I am learning a lot from you. Keep up the good work!
That is a simple DPDT switch. The price is just silly. Good that you were able to fix it. Thanks for the video.
All good stuff Elin, (looking forward to finishing the dashboard wiring now though…)
Hi Elin. That switch is very similar to what is used in my ‘74 Jag XJ6. They are simple but maddening. The switches for the window winders are overly complicated with many wires. Only one window at a time can operate starting with the driver’s door. Each switch has small brass connections that press against points to raise or lower the windows. Using that switch then cuts off the power to the next window in the line. A fellow owner with the same car as mine had to call me because he had disconnected all the window switches and couldn’t figure it out when putting it all back together. The colour codes didn’t match up to the Haynes manual.
Thanks Elin, that saved me a few bucks, and it keeps the original switch in the dash. We will spend that money on something else 👍
The guts of that switch is probably used for different applications. Throw a spring in that tube that presses on the rocker and you have a switch that returns to the default position when released. The return spring is held in place by the tube you ground down.
Good job
Nice repair. I would have wired the switch the other way so that when you push the top the hazards come on. Most switches are moved up to engage and pushing the top matches moving the switch up. Think of rocker switches for house lights. You press to the top to turn the lights on.
Just like you that is how I am used to turn things on, push the top… but in the UK it is the other way around. So I don’t know about the hazard lights, but the headlights for sure are this way, push the bottom to turn them on. So I just matches that.
@@RustyBeauties It looks like I learned something today. It makes sense if you push the bottom of the headlight switch to turn it on then the hazard switch should work the same way. My TR3 doesn't have "modern" switches like a TR6.
Great diagnosis and repairs of those pesky switches Elin. Like Doug (Texas), I too thought the small tube inside the switch might accommodate a 12V neon bulb , but these things can fool you as those switches were probably used on other models ..Hope you & yours have a great Christmas and new year. Thanks for all the great videos you've done for us over the last year.
Yes, these units are worth rebuilding.
My pet gripe is the number of wires and amount of current concentrated to the switch.
Personally, a high quality Aircraft switch would be better, safer.
I’m guessing but I think the spring has relaxed with age. I wonder if you stretched it increasing its natural length what the result might be with an unmodified housing.
This round part is for a light und the pin on one side , so you see the light by night, put not grease on the bottem, is better on the black part over the spring. Or the parts are to old and the wear out.
Elin, nice work on that $witch repair! I wonder what the current draw is when the hazard flashers are on; that amperage might explain why the plastic 'guide channel' was melted/damaged?
Happy Holidays to you and yours!
Maybe a small light bulb goes in the hole? Any way it would get 12v?
LOL... I laughed because I've been there and done that except you showed both problems with that kind of switch. Simply that they get dirty. When dirty they can get hot because of the resistance to flow. With old "flasher" they draw more current so I would often install a relay but do the new model ones draw less current so a relay is not nessary?
Did you use any dielectric grease?
Toggle. Better represents " Pin"
Wash the dash light flashing with just the indicators on?
Didn't look like it 🤔
No, it is not supposed to. There is another one inside the speedometer for the directional. That one works too.
@@RustyBeauties ok, I thought that was the light for inside the speedo 😉
Nice work! I too didn't see any light flashing on the dash when only the turn signal was flashing.