I kept holding my breath while you were trouble shooting my rear lights. But I knew you figure it out. She’s looking like a TR6, and not a Rusty Beauty! Thanks Elin.
Elin. You are a master. I’m glad to support you but think it is great that you provide the information you do regardless. The Triumph community is stronger because of you!
Hi Elin, I can't support you financially I'm afraid. Not right now, anyway. But I love watching what you do and I really appreciate the fact you make your content available to everyone. You're a good bloke, as we say this side of the pond 😊
Elon, your explanation of how the fuel gauge function reminded me how much we take for granted common conveniences like that. Some years ago I was fortunate to get a demo ride in a 1931 Junkers Ju 52 tri-motor airplane (designation D-AQUI) that had been beautifully restored by Lufthansa airlines. Imprior to starting the engines, it was a bit disconcerting to see the pilot scramble out on the wing, uncap the fuel tank and check the fuel level with what looked like a wooden yard stick! I'm happy to report there must have been sufficient fuel because the 30 or 40 minute flight was flawless! 😊
Good video. This was one of the first electrical projects I did on my 75. Bad grounds, dirt, and rust everywhere. They cleaned up nicely, though, so I was very happy when I had tail, reverse and brake lights! Fun little project, but have sockets and new bulbs on hand as well as new gaskets.
I've only got 3 wiring jobs left on my car, (1) rewire my electric fan, with over-ride switch, relay & temperature switch, (2), replace the hazard flasher unit with a no load LED flasher unit and perhaps the bulb in the hazard switch, (3) install the Revington Logic circuit on my J-tyoe overdrive. I don’t really mind doing it so much, but it will be a lot less stress once it's all done!
Another interesting and informative video. In some ways I prefer an amp gauge. I have one in the GT6. My Jeep Liberty did not come with an oil pressure gauge or a voltmeter so I installed both. The wiring harness in the Jeep is virtually impossible to access so I just plugged the voltmeter into the cigarette lighter outlet. As you said the voltmeter is on all the time. It doesn’t draw much power but if the Jeep isn’t being used for a long time I can just pull the plug. The oil gauge is mechanical and the tube had to be put in where the sender goes. That causes a problem because then the oil light is on all the time. I solved the problem with a three way union with the electric sender attached and cut the nylon tube and attached that with the proper fittings. All good.
The most important thing on the taillights, besides not being pitted, is the chromed plastic reflector in the brake/running light part. The lenses are notorious for being brittle and the mounting points break off. I notice that there is red paint and green tape on the trunk lock, it might be very hard to remove the lock to clean the outer lock cylinder as some of the screws, from what I have experienced, almost always break off. I have had good luck in getting the sliding door, where you put the key in, to work after much WD40 or equivalent and repetitive tapping to break it loose. Nice job with the electrical wiring!
Brilliant bit of diagnosis and improvisation Elin. Other than a broken half shaft on my 1954 TR-2, the rest of my TR owning troubles were mainly electrical . In England we've always had a lot of 'climate change', mostly of the wet and damp variety 😅so I soon figured out that those bits of wire transporting 12 volts around the car were rather important if you didn't want a breakdown on your drive back from the pub !
Some good info there, whie my rear lights allwork and are in the sockets, i didnt realize how they fit the spots. Mine dohave extra ground wires on... now from comments i know why i guess although all of the original were cleaned as you have done.
Nice little video,electrical is one hardest to diagnose,at least for me.but gotta have power to get anything,usually,to work.just continue doing what your doing.😎😎😎👍👍👍
Good work Elin. Has someone else has said, there looks to be a slight volts drop on the ground to the rear light clusters as all the lights seem to change brightness with the indicators. Very common fault on many cars, especially old Fords. You probably need to add an extra ground wire to the body somewhere convenient.
Elin sorry if you mentioned this in another video, but what is the advantage of switching to a voltmeter? Also how is that change affected by a generator vs an alternator?
Hi Elin, I saw on Ed China's site 'Wheeler Dealers' how to convert an old engine to run on unleaded fuel, so I just wondered, what fuel do you guys use in your old cars? Here in South Africa we have LRP (lead replacement petrol).
I kept holding my breath while you were trouble shooting my rear lights. But I knew you figure it out. She’s looking like a TR6, and not a Rusty Beauty! Thanks Elin.
Elin. You are a master. I’m glad to support you but think it is great that you provide the information you do regardless. The Triumph community is stronger because of you!
Hi Elin,
I can't support you financially I'm afraid. Not right now, anyway. But I love watching what you do and I really appreciate the fact you make your content available to everyone.
You're a good bloke, as we say this side of the pond 😊
Elon, your explanation of how the fuel gauge function reminded me how much we take for granted common conveniences like that.
Some years ago I was fortunate to get a demo ride in a 1931 Junkers Ju 52 tri-motor airplane (designation D-AQUI) that had been beautifully restored by Lufthansa airlines. Imprior to starting the engines, it was a bit disconcerting to see the pilot scramble out on the wing, uncap the fuel tank and check the fuel level with what looked like a wooden yard stick! I'm happy to report there must have been sufficient fuel because the 30 or 40 minute flight was flawless! 😊
TR2s and early TR3s also had a stick!
Good video. This was one of the first electrical projects I did on my 75. Bad grounds, dirt, and rust everywhere. They cleaned up nicely, though, so I was very happy when I had tail, reverse and brake lights! Fun little project, but have sockets and new bulbs on hand as well as new gaskets.
I learn new information from every video. Thank you so much for all you do to educate me and others! Happy to support you on patreon.
Love the wall wiring diagram!
I've only got 3 wiring jobs left on my car, (1) rewire my electric fan, with over-ride switch, relay & temperature switch, (2), replace the hazard flasher unit with a no load LED flasher unit and perhaps the bulb in the hazard switch, (3) install the Revington Logic circuit on my J-tyoe overdrive. I don’t really mind doing it so much, but it will be a lot less stress once it's all done!
Another interesting and informative video. In some ways I prefer an amp gauge. I have one in the GT6. My Jeep Liberty did not come with an oil pressure gauge or a voltmeter so I installed both. The wiring harness in the Jeep is virtually impossible to access so I just plugged the voltmeter into the cigarette lighter outlet. As you said the voltmeter is on all the time. It doesn’t draw much power but if the Jeep isn’t being used for a long time I can just pull the plug. The oil gauge is mechanical and the tube had to be put in where the sender goes. That causes a problem because then the oil light is on all the time. I solved the problem with a three way union with the electric sender attached and cut the nylon tube and attached that with the proper fittings. All good.
The most important thing on the taillights, besides not being pitted, is the chromed plastic reflector in the brake/running light part. The lenses are notorious for being brittle and the mounting points break off. I notice that there is red paint and green tape on the trunk lock, it might be very hard to remove the lock to clean the outer lock cylinder as some of the screws, from what I have experienced, almost always break off. I have had good luck in getting the sliding door, where you put the key in, to work after much WD40 or equivalent and repetitive tapping to break it loose. Nice job with the electrical wiring!
Brilliant bit of diagnosis and improvisation Elin. Other than a broken half shaft on my 1954 TR-2, the rest of my TR owning troubles were mainly electrical . In England we've always had a lot of 'climate change', mostly of the wet and damp variety 😅so I soon figured out that those bits of wire transporting 12 volts around the car were rather important if you didn't want a breakdown on your drive back from the pub !
Some good info there, whie my rear lights allwork and are in the sockets, i didnt realize how they fit the spots. Mine dohave extra ground wires on... now from comments i know why i guess although all of the original were cleaned as you have done.
It looked like the reverse lights were flashing when the signals were on so maybe still have an earth problem. Another great vid thanks👍
Always something to learn, even for those of us driving dull and boring cars. Thanks, Elin!
Nice little video,electrical is one hardest to diagnose,at least for me.but gotta have power to get anything,usually,to work.just continue doing what your doing.😎😎😎👍👍👍
Zoom zoom zoom ! 😊
Great time for one of the newer 4-way articulated borescope.
Good work Elin. Has someone else has said, there looks to be a slight volts drop on the ground to the rear light clusters as all the lights seem to change brightness with the indicators. Very common fault on many cars, especially old Fords. You probably need to add an extra ground wire to the body somewhere convenient.
Elin sorry if you mentioned this in another video, but what is the advantage of switching to a voltmeter? Also how is that change affected by a generator vs an alternator?
Hi Elin, I saw on Ed China's site 'Wheeler Dealers' how to convert an old engine to run on unleaded fuel, so I just wondered, what fuel do you guys use in your old cars? Here in South Africa we have LRP (lead replacement petrol).
Is the voltmeter conversion so you can monitor the battery health?
This is just a comment for you to go viral :D
First. Awsome
You beat me!