How To - Valve Clearance/Chain Tension - SV650
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2016
- Haven't seen any videos on this procedure for this bike, so I've uploaded the steps to follow for the First Gen SV650S/N.
PistnRods Video: • HALP, How Do I Fix This?
First Gen SV650 Spark plug change: • First Gen SV650 Spark ... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Mate there are no T wrench (Torx) on an SV, they are all Allen keys, or Hex wrench as you guys call them. Using a Torx key will mess up those bolts.
Thank you for posting! have exactly the same sv!!
(since feb '19) gonna use this video to get everything nice and tight again! (when I find the time... other projects 😅🙈
Nice clean tutorial video, even a caveman can understand...
I think the reason you lost clearance is that when the valve face and seat wear, the stem rises and the clearance is then lost. The face and seat usually cup, allowing this stem rise. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for the great video!
It also doesn't help that I checked the clearance with the engine warm. a buddy of mine needed a tutorial for his SV, so I started the project when I got home from work.
Great info and detail.
Good job, my friend!😉
very clear. thanks
Using torx bits instead of Allen bits stressed me out so muxh
superb! Thank you
Manual says counter clockwise, but it wont hurt if you go clockwise just as long as you dont back up or reverse your direction
8mm clearance! Holy cow! Something is terribly wrong. Actually if you have 8mm clearance you're not at TDC. The decimal matters kids.
iit was inch, but also very clear with the other info plus sheets, awesome video!
Cracking simple video really gives me confidence to tackle it... the Questions and replys were also very helpfull maybe you could update this using the correct tools etc !
My Question is I have a 2018 SV650 ...can i assume they are the same ?
Thanks Very much for this Video though ! Scot
Great instruntions :D Thanks :D Tiny correction: when you say 8mm it's a 0.8mm ;)
Hi how r u Bro ?
Could u help me to fix timing chain marks of Hyosung GT 250 r plz
Hi mate thanks for the video. Do you have to use a gauge with angled blades like yours?
Thanks, glad you liked it. To answer your question, no you do not need angles feeler gauges, but it helps. you can actually bend yours as they are pretty easy to straiten out. I had to bend mine even further for this project.
Your numbers are incorrect for valve clearances and the shim is not .005 it's .05
Errors:
uses T55 torx instead of the an allen socket
uses 11/16 instead of a the proper metric socket
uses rusted feeler gauges ( absolute No No!)
overall grade: B-
+hostilityy
I simply used the tools I had access to.
In kind (Grammar correction)
Uses T55 Torx instead of an Allen socket.
Uses 11/16 instead of the proper Metric socket.
Used Rusty feeler gauges (an absolute no no!)
Overall grade B.
Using what you've got is fine, just don't tell other people to use imperial on metric and torx on hex
Makes me think of high school auto-tech class haha
@@jaysrides6901 you mispelled (grammer correction)
Grade F.
Ty for the video though, it is helpful despite the haters commenting
I thought the same
hi how do you check out the timing thanks
You have to remove the lower front plug while you have the valve cover off and put the lower crank into a spot where the line can be seen in the hole, line it up with the external line on the hole and then make sure the upper cams are at the correct mark. It's best to mark all the moving parts with a paint pen before removing the chain.
Just a question. I have a 2017 SV 650 that only has a little over 3600 km. Once the motorcycle warms up after riding for a while I’m hearing a clacking noise coming from the right side. I have stopped the bike and used an automotive stethoscope to listen for this noise and it seems like the rear cylinder head on the top side is a lot louder than the front cylinder head. The noise is best heard when riding the bike at steady throttle at about 4000 RPM in a long stretch . Is it possible for such a new bike to have the valves out of adjustment ? When the bike is cold it sounds great but as soon as it warms up the clacking starts to happen. I have heard that SV engines can be noisy and I understand the whole deal about oil thinning out when hot. What I don’t know is if these valves become looser when hot.
Yanier Olivera: Heat will make all the metal components expand to different degrees based on their metal composition. This is why the gap should be checked when the engine is completely cold.
Being as your bike is FI. and advances the timing a bit for cold starts, I would start by checking the timing chain tensioner first, since those are more prone to early failure. If those are good, then I could be that some of the valve shims have prematurely worn out and will need to be replaced.
I'd check with the place you bought it first and see if they cover an inspection under warranty. Just bring it in after its warmed up so they can hear it.
Jay Starr Thanks for your reply
My motorcycle was at the dealership for this problem since October last year. I picked it up early April this year and they told me that they thought the noise was related to the clutch. I didn’t think that was the problem. What I was told is that they swapped the whole clutch system from a new bike. They didn’t even spend the time to test ride bike to see if the noise had gone . I picked it up and rode it, the same noise is still there. I looked at the chrome bolts that attach the clutch cover and to me it looks like there was never a socket put on them. I honestly think they lied to me. I’m basically on my own with this bike.
I will make some time and take it to an individual shop and have them inspect the valve clearance. Or simply do it myself and if they are out i’ll have someone qualified rectify them. Again, thanks for the reply.
Yanier Olivera: That doesn't sound right to me. I'd talk to the service manager and bug them every day until they fix it.
I used to work at a bike dealer/parts supplier. They have to fix it.
I would still suspect the timing chain tensioner. One of my buddies had the same thing start happening to his 3 month old fz09, and that was the issue.
Good luck with your dealer though.
Jay Starr. So if the cam chain tensioner would be the problem, wouldn’t I hear the noise when the bike is cold as well? Man this thing is totally temperature related. On cold days it takes longer for the noise to start happening. If its hot out it will start to make the noise a lot sooner. This is not really affecting the way the bike runs, but it is bothering me...
all the best!
Yanier Olivera: It's just a check to do when you have the head off. See how loose the chain is. It should have very little slack.
Another possibility is a loose exhaust manifold bolt or leak at that gasket, it can sound the same.
Still a good idea to check the clearance.
It can also depend on the oil.
A new bike should have the oil changed sooner than later during the break in period. Oil gets thinner when it breaks down. 10-w30 is thicker when cold, so you could try a 10-w40 so it's only a little thicker when warm, but still the same cold.
If the noise isn't very loud, I wouldn't worry to much, mine always had a soft tick to it. But better safe than sorry to check the clearance.
hi. thanks for posting the vid! i have a question, whats the name of ur frame slide, and where did you get it??? thanks!!!!!
+Mark Yap
I got them off eBay. They are titled Krator no cut frame sliders: Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/281613436090
Mine are the carbon fiber color though.
If you need to reduce your clearence, you wouldn't just add another shim on top of the existing shim.
f preston:
You would only want to replace the shim you have with a thicker one to bring it into specs. Two in one spot could lead to serious mechanical failure.
It's very important you get the cylinder to top Dead center using an alignment mark.. You can't just measure the valve to bucket clearance with the cams pointing up to some degree.. This is a mistake.
dima y
Watch it till 9:02 I cover this step.
my bad , I somehow missed that. appreciate the reply
Absolutely I agree with you
That's not a torn fastener, it is an Allen fitting.
Your instructions are not clear enough for the average none mechanically minded guy