They did come across in my research, but No, I considered mostly Boss and Full Spectrum lasers. Just due to lack of outlet spots, I have machine and cooler on a separate circuit from the exhaust and blower. I want to add some outlets into the machine itself to tidy things up a little and add a switch in the front to easily turn on and off the exhaust and blower. I'll have to double check the amperage draw, but I think all 4 devises can be run off a 15 amp circuit.
I have been looking at other brands including Gravotech. A similar machine from them costs well over $25,000. When I asked the rep about the price difference he says that the Boss uses Chinese parts that are inferior and wear out faster. The LS-1630 is way cheaper so we are considering it from a cost standpoint but are hesitant to pull the trigger on it because of what this other guy said. What do you think?
Well, in my opinion, I think it depends on how much you plan on using the machine. I've had mine for two years now and have had zero issues with it. Granted I don't use it anywhere near as much as a regular production environment might see, but I want to say it gets used for something 3 or 4 times a week on average. While the Boss is not the best quality machine out there, it's not too bad either and I think it's capable of light production use too. Like anything, keeping up on basic cleaning and maintenance of the machine are going to extend the life of it considerably. I would also recommend a better chiller like the CW-5200 or greater, and making sure the water for it stays clean. The laser came with a CW-3000 which is just a radiator and pump, and may be fine for light use but I think the larger chiller will help ensure maximum life of the tube. So really you have to ask yourself how much use on average the machine it going to see and also if there's any other features a high end machine may have over the cheaper Boss. Personally myself I think if I knew the machine was going to be working a full shift or more a week (40+ hours) I would consider something higher quality. Even then I would be tempted to try the Boss at less then half the price anyway. If you plan on working the machine long hours, ask Boss and see what they have to say about it. If they think the machine is up to it, and if that may void the warranty. Some manufactures are funny about honoring warranties for equipment they know it being used at an industrial duty level. Just my 2 cents on the matter. Hope that helps some.
You done any cutting of thick materials on this? I've seen em post videos of the old 90 watt version they had cutting 1/2" acrylics and such but on their site the only state up to 1/4" just wondering if this thing has been pushed by anyone, as I'm not finding any videos of it.
The thickest material I've cut is 3/8" acrylic, thought that was only once for a test. It worked pretty well, though I did do it in several passes and the squareness of the edges trails off a little towards the bottom of the cut. Most of the stuff I do is 1/8" acrylic or Delrin, which cuts much nicer (at least with the lens I have in at the moment) but the 3/8" cut wasn't horrible.
It depends on the exact type of plastic it's made from. I think most polymer frames are something similar to nylon, which doesn't cut real well. Factor in the fiber reinforcing usually added to the plastic for strength, and I doubt you'd get real good results stippling a gun frame. Maybe okay for light markings, but probably not for deeper cutting you're going to want to make a good grip.
It's been working very well for me, thanks. I'm always finding a use for making new things to sell or fixtures for other projects. No problems with it yet either. Just a learning curve with using the supplied software. Off the top of my head, I'd just make sure the machine you buy has the power and work area size you need. For most of my stuff I find the 1630 plenty big, though every once and a while I have an idea that's outside the working envelope. Power wise too, I got the 100 watt laser option, and sometimes wish I has stepped up to a larger machine with 150 or more to be able to cut thin sheet metal as well. It's hard because you'll talk yourself up to the biggest machine you can afford (or beyond), but still want to be practical and get just enough machine to suit the bulk of your current needs. I'd also be sure you have good software for making files with. The included program will work for basic stuff and is needed for converting DXF files to the cutter's RD format, but isn't too great for intensive design work. Depending what you want to do, it will help to have other programs like CAD or other vector imaging software. Best of luck with your new equipment purchase!
I bought a S&A CW-5200. Might have been overkill for the machine, but I rather error on the side of too many BTUs then not enough. I don't know much it actually matter, but I made sure I was getting an actual S&A brand unit too. Did a little research before hand, and a few people claiming the look alike units are of a marginally lower quality. It's all Chinese stuff anyway, but supposedly the real S&A company is the originator of the designs other manufactures in China are copying and the quality control is better. Don't know how true that is, but just something I read in my research.
ElationProductions Got it...I bought a CW 5000 D&A clone brand for 400$. I hope I didn’t waste my money on the clone. I will be ordering the 1630 Monday....nervous about this large purchase !!!! What program do you design in ?
The machine is almost 38" wide, so I'm going to say no it won't fit. I have the advantage of a 7 foot wide garage door and ramp leading into my basement. The frame of the machine is welded up too, so unfortunately it couldn't be disassembled to fit either.
Sorry, I double checked the machine and my statement about it being disassembled isn't quite true. If you were real intent on that model, I could the bottom section of the unit being taken off and the machine turned sideways to reduce it's size to just under 32" to fit through your doorway. The machine is actually composed of 3 sections stacked on top of each other. It would take a little work but I can see the bottom section (which is primarily just for the wheels) being taken off to reduce it's size.
Good job, but those cut pieces flying through the work table are not so cool to see, and first of all they could be dangerous for the laser head if they meet its path.
Trust me, the laser head has seen far worse then a few pop up parts can offer it for danger. Twice now I've had the auto height adjust fail to activate, and jam the head into the table HARD. That was a scary experience, but some how the machine came out with no significant damage.
Did you ever consider the Thunder Laser brand ? I see those are made well too.
Also, do you have all the devices connected to one circuit?
They did come across in my research, but No, I considered mostly Boss and Full Spectrum lasers.
Just due to lack of outlet spots, I have machine and cooler on a separate circuit from the exhaust and blower. I want to add some outlets into the machine itself to tidy things up a little and add a switch in the front to easily turn on and off the exhaust and blower. I'll have to double check the amperage draw, but I think all 4 devises can be run off a 15 amp circuit.
I have been looking at other brands including Gravotech. A similar machine from them costs well over $25,000. When I asked the rep about the price difference he says that the Boss uses Chinese parts that are inferior and wear out faster. The LS-1630 is way cheaper so we are considering it from a cost standpoint but are hesitant to pull the trigger on it because of what this other guy said. What do you think?
Well, in my opinion, I think it depends on how much you plan on using the machine. I've had mine for two years now and have had zero issues with it. Granted I don't use it anywhere near as much as a regular production environment might see, but I want to say it gets used for something 3 or 4 times a week on average. While the Boss is not the best quality machine out there, it's not too bad either and I think it's capable of light production use too. Like anything, keeping up on basic cleaning and maintenance of the machine are going to extend the life of it considerably. I would also recommend a better chiller like the CW-5200 or greater, and making sure the water for it stays clean. The laser came with a CW-3000 which is just a radiator and pump, and may be fine for light use but I think the larger chiller will help ensure maximum life of the tube.
So really you have to ask yourself how much use on average the machine it going to see and also if there's any other features a high end machine may have over the cheaper Boss. Personally myself I think if I knew the machine was going to be working a full shift or more a week (40+ hours) I would consider something higher quality. Even then I would be tempted to try the Boss at less then half the price anyway. If you plan on working the machine long hours, ask Boss and see what they have to say about it. If they think the machine is up to it, and if that may void the warranty. Some manufactures are funny about honoring warranties for equipment they know it being used at an industrial duty level.
Just my 2 cents on the matter. Hope that helps some.
You done any cutting of thick materials on this? I've seen em post videos of the old 90 watt version they had cutting 1/2" acrylics and such but on their site the only state up to 1/4" just wondering if this thing has been pushed by anyone, as I'm not finding any videos of it.
The thickest material I've cut is 3/8" acrylic, thought that was only once for a test. It worked pretty well, though I did do it in several passes and the squareness of the edges trails off a little towards the bottom of the cut. Most of the stuff I do is 1/8" acrylic or Delrin, which cuts much nicer (at least with the lens I have in at the moment) but the 3/8" cut wasn't horrible.
Can you stipple polymer firearm frames with this machine?
It depends on the exact type of plastic it's made from. I think most polymer frames are something similar to nylon, which doesn't cut real well. Factor in the fiber reinforcing usually added to the plastic for strength, and I doubt you'd get real good results stippling a gun frame. Maybe okay for light markings, but probably not for deeper cutting you're going to want to make a good grip.
How’s the boss laser working out ? I’m looking to purchase the 1420 very soon.
Any considerations or comments before I order.
It's been working very well for me, thanks. I'm always finding a use for making new things to sell or fixtures for other projects. No problems with it yet either. Just a learning curve with using the supplied software.
Off the top of my head, I'd just make sure the machine you buy has the power and work area size you need. For most of my stuff I find the 1630 plenty big, though every once and a while I have an idea that's outside the working envelope. Power wise too, I got the 100 watt laser option, and sometimes wish I has stepped up to a larger machine with 150 or more to be able to cut thin sheet metal as well. It's hard because you'll talk yourself up to the biggest machine you can afford (or beyond), but still want to be practical and get just enough machine to suit the bulk of your current needs.
I'd also be sure you have good software for making files with. The included program will work for basic stuff and is needed for converting DXF files to the cutter's RD format, but isn't too great for intensive design work. Depending what you want to do, it will help to have other programs like CAD or other vector imaging software.
Best of luck with your new equipment purchase!
ElationProductions
lol....now you have me thinking of getting the 1630 with 100 watt laser....damn you..
ElationProductions
What brand chiller did u buy.?
I bought a S&A CW-5200. Might have been overkill for the machine, but I rather error on the side of too many BTUs then not enough. I don't know much it actually matter, but I made sure I was getting an actual S&A brand unit too. Did a little research before hand, and a few people claiming the look alike units are of a marginally lower quality. It's all Chinese stuff anyway, but supposedly the real S&A company is the originator of the designs other manufactures in China are copying and the quality control is better. Don't know how true that is, but just something I read in my research.
ElationProductions
Got it...I bought a CW 5000 D&A clone brand for 400$. I hope I didn’t waste my money on the clone.
I will be ordering the 1630 Monday....nervous about this large purchase !!!!
What program do you design in ?
Whats type of material are you cutting ?
Im french so im no sure if you say it !
This is 2mm thick craft foam.
can you get that machine through a 35 inched wide door? LS 1630
The machine is almost 38" wide, so I'm going to say no it won't fit. I have the advantage of a 7 foot wide garage door and ramp leading into my basement. The frame of the machine is welded up too, so unfortunately it couldn't be disassembled to fit either.
Sorry, I double checked the machine and my statement about it being disassembled isn't quite true. If you were real intent on that model, I could the bottom section of the unit being taken off and the machine turned sideways to reduce it's size to just under 32" to fit through your doorway. The machine is actually composed of 3 sections stacked on top of each other. It would take a little work but I can see the bottom section (which is primarily just for the wheels) being taken off to reduce it's size.
The company I work for uses the machine for etching tumblers
Nice! I should try that sometime. Just got a Yeti from my boss I'd like to put my logo on in fact.
@@ElationProductions well did work for
My laser machine problm power minimum and meter low
I'm sorry, I don't quite understand your question.
Good job, but those cut pieces flying through the work table are not so cool to see, and first of all they could be dangerous for the laser head if they meet its path.
How would you prevent that?
@@blewprent I would set a slower cutting speed so that I could be able to cut only with exhaust and without the need of air assist in "storm" mode.
Trust me, the laser head has seen far worse then a few pop up parts can offer it for danger. Twice now I've had the auto height adjust fail to activate, and jam the head into the table HARD. That was a scary experience, but some how the machine came out with no significant damage.