Not gonna lie, ever since I saw these designs, I always thought it'd be interesting to set up a big board for either a Hive City look or the interior of a warship for those Boarding patrol or combat patrol sized games.
You make great boards and explain this well. I have been making my own tiles and playboards to be printed and I still find new tips and tricks watching your (and others) videos on tiles. This is one thing GW has done right, drove us to be more creative. They once encouraged us to make boards and terrain from trash (in their official books) and showed us how. Now we can go further with printing. But, there is a lot GW should do, at the same time I can understand keeping the sets "simple." They seem to be maximizing the "FOMO" effect for sales this last decade, and having more options would only cut into sales. I would have loved a Chaos, Nid, Necron, and Eldar hallways/space ships but they may only sell "detail kits." I LOVE that tomb ship setup, wish I had that when I played first-gen Necrons.
Hi! Could you give some insight on how approximately how much resin is needed to print all pieces needed for such a board you made? I'm considering buying the stl files and want to know how much will it cost with printing them out.
Odd question but could you magnetize the tops of these and then use floor tiles to make a roof? I'd love to use these as a way to set up small buildings for other skirmish games
I have seen others do this, I think it was with this brand of tiles, the issue though was the sag point. 2 3mm magnets are not enough to hold them vertically. Even Open Lock systems have issues with sag when making raised platforms. What I typically see to fix that the tiles are printed on FDM, so 4 of them are joined into one print for a large square, or 2 wide 1 long for a straight, etc.
I made one using a bamboo skewer and a pair of 2mm x 1mm magnets (the size I use for my infantry). If you are working with larger magnets, you could make one with dowels or chopsticks quite easily. When you do, just make sure the polarity of each end is different, and be consistent about how you use each end. (I have mine labelled "body" and "appendage".)
I could not tell what bottle he is using, but that looks to be a fine-flow disposable tip put on it. They can be cleared by using a ramrod (typically a thin paperclip or piece of wire 22 gauge-ish) to knock the crust if it is not fully closed. Otherwise, you just pull off the tip and close the original bottle. If you want to prolong the tips you can drop it in a little solvent to work the glue and dunk in water to clean. Do not keep it in the solvent for long unless it is safe for that type of plastic, had one melted to a rock before.
You could also try heating the paperclip/rod that Rose mentioned, before pushing it in. It leaves some blackness around the tip of the bottle, but that's always worked well for me on superglue bottles where I can't unscrew the cap.
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Oh wow. That little stick is bloody brilliant!! That's a great idea!!!!
Not gonna lie, ever since I saw these designs, I always thought it'd be interesting to set up a big board for either a Hive City look or the interior of a warship for those Boarding patrol or combat patrol sized games.
You make great boards and explain this well. I have been making my own tiles and playboards to be printed and I still find new tips and tricks watching your (and others) videos on tiles. This is one thing GW has done right, drove us to be more creative. They once encouraged us to make boards and terrain from trash (in their official books) and showed us how. Now we can go further with printing.
But, there is a lot GW should do, at the same time I can understand keeping the sets "simple." They seem to be maximizing the "FOMO" effect for sales this last decade, and having more options would only cut into sales. I would have loved a Chaos, Nid, Necron, and Eldar hallways/space ships but they may only sell "detail kits." I LOVE that tomb ship setup, wish I had that when I played first-gen Necrons.
Good video, thanks! I keep seeing the Dipping Inks mentioned, I'll try them out asap.
Absolutely incredible! I've got to try this now!
Cool terrain and the stick is a great idea Jon
Excellent tips mate
Fantastic idea! What a time saver ☺️👍
Would love to see you expand this to play Boarding Actions
I’m a huge green stuff world fan. You might have talked me into ordering those dipping inks 😬 don’t tell the misses 🤫
Train looks awesome
Hi! Could you give some insight on how approximately how much resin is needed to print all pieces needed for such a board you made? I'm considering buying the stl files and want to know how much will it cost with printing them out.
very cool, my dude!
Odd question but could you magnetize the tops of these and then use floor tiles to make a roof? I'd love to use these as a way to set up small buildings for other skirmish games
I have seen others do this, I think it was with this brand of tiles, the issue though was the sag point. 2 3mm magnets are not enough to hold them vertically. Even Open Lock systems have issues with sag when making raised platforms. What I typically see to fix that the tiles are printed on FDM, so 4 of them are joined into one print for a large square, or 2 wide 1 long for a straight, etc.
Amazing
Nice
Did you make that magnet stick or did you get it from somewhere? That magnet stick is such a useful idea and tool!
I made one using a bamboo skewer and a pair of 2mm x 1mm magnets (the size I use for my infantry). If you are working with larger magnets, you could make one with dowels or chopsticks quite easily. When you do, just make sure the polarity of each end is different, and be consistent about how you use each end. (I have mine labelled "body" and "appendage".)
GODS DAMIT!! That magnet stick could have been life saver on magnetising my Van Saar gang
How much resin does it typically take for you to print an entire board?
Magnets? How do they work?
Epic!
Still looking for an honest Tyranid style, unless you want to make it. Smoking is still bad for you.
Hi, just a quick question how do you use superglue without it drying in the neck and nozzle causing clogging
I could not tell what bottle he is using, but that looks to be a fine-flow disposable tip put on it. They can be cleared by using a ramrod (typically a thin paperclip or piece of wire 22 gauge-ish) to knock the crust if it is not fully closed. Otherwise, you just pull off the tip and close the original bottle.
If you want to prolong the tips you can drop it in a little solvent to work the glue and dunk in water to clean. Do not keep it in the solvent for long unless it is safe for that type of plastic, had one melted to a rock before.
You could also try heating the paperclip/rod that Rose mentioned, before pushing it in. It leaves some blackness around the tip of the bottle, but that's always worked well for me on superglue bottles where I can't unscrew the cap.