Thanks Mark. I have never had any success at shrinking metal, I usually make it worse! I am looking forward to your next video. Thanks for taking time to teach us.
I think we are learning together on this one. Me on not going for the easy win for sure. One way or another we will get that panel in better shape than it is now. Mark
I used a stud welder (dent puller) from harbor freight to apply heat in spots to shrink metal. Then wiped it with a wet cloth. Seemed to work on the few oil cans I was struggling with. I've learned a ton from your metal work.
Thanks for the tip Jason. I just bought one today. I kept waiting for Harbor Freight to put them on sale or some sort of 20% discount coupon but as you know those are never good on welders so I bit the bullet today. I will give your tip a try and see how it works. Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I believe they make a tip for it that spreads the heat out a bit but I don't think I bought the special tip... it can be useful as a dent puller in hard to reach places so hopefully you can get your money's worth.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Hey Mark, quick question. I pulled out a dent in the fender on my 69 Dart but if I push it or lean on it, it will pop back in.... how do you decide if the metal needs to be shrunk or stretched? Its right on the body line so it should be very rigid but can be pushed in with one hand.
@@shep145 Body line dents can be tough to deal with. It sounds like you have to much material somewhere, figuring that out so you can shrink it in the correct spot can be the hard part. If there is no other damage on that panel then the area of the removed dent probably has slightly more metal than it should. First go to the other side in the exact same spot and push lightly and see how it feels then you know what you need on the repair side. What I usually do is to push with just one finger on the oil can area to determine the center of the oil can. I just push lightly to see where it takes the most and least pressure to make it pop and map it out. Generally the area you used the hammer on the most or took the most push when the dent went it is the culprit. Figure out the area of the oil can and then start zeroing in on the area that feels like the center. Start slow with just one shrink with the spot welder and see if the oil can improves, if it does then hit a few more spots around the first one.
Glad to see someone else keep track of expenditures on a build, I've been doing the same for years. Looking forward to figuring out the oil can problem... I have one to fix on the 37. Thanks for the efforts!
Thanks Don, Ruby will cost what she costs but I wanted to show just how much people can expect to spend even doing all the work themselves. I don't know of any other channel even mentioning costs. "We sent the chassis out to have all new suspension installed" " We are installing 2 1/2" stainless exhaust today" "Look at this awesome billet grill we are putting on the truck" Not once do they ever say how much anything costs. Kind of disappointing really.
Watching Foose, Kindig, etc. build some awesome rides with unlimited manpower, design ideas, and budgets is quality entertainment! Though for all their glitz and glamor, I'll get more out of your channel for a "reality build" in one hour than a day watching them. For instance, the tutorial on EDTA rust kill was highly successful for me on all the small parts while the other guys would have simply ordered new parts or more likely not even mention the effort to deal with the rust! Thank again for your channel and looking forward to more!
Love the videos and determination to put the sbsolute minimum filler many people would have already said enough and slapped some going to do my best to stay same way on my lemans look forward to next video
Thanks Brittney, Nothing wrong with filler but shrinkage and cracking can be a huge problem if applied too thick on large flat panels. Back in the day I would have already been leaning towards filler but I know the panel has more to give if I am patient. It is also a great learning experience for me and hopefully some of you. Mark
Hey Mark, I like your spreadsheet to track costs. I originally thought I didn't want to know, but I think I definitely need to know. Thanks for sharing! I appreciate you showing all your mistakes. We're all human and hopefully I can avoid some of these on my own project!
Thanks Doug, I am trying to make Project Ruby as real life as possible and costs are a huge part of any build. Unfortunately nobody I have seen talks about the money side. I think it is important to keep the channel real and honest. Mark
Kyle Carter has a channel I like to watch. He’s a Neanderthal working in a cave compared to your clean shop, but he is a master at pounding out the dents. He always warns against resorting to shrinking a low crown panel to eliminate an oil can problem without first working out all the dents, and he shows that the oil can will usually disappear once all the dents are taken care of. If you shrink the panel too early in the process it can be really hard to get it all straight. Also, his rule of thumb is not as simple as working from the outside in. He says edges, body lines, high crown, and then low crown areas in that order. On Ruby’s flat ass, you’d be pretty much doing that if you had moved to the bottom after doing that upper body line, as you seem to have worked out yourself!
Thanks Stephen, I will check out his channel if I get a chance. The area that is oil canned was stretched during the initial accident and the shop that fixed it all those years ago just left it caved in to eat up all the extra metal so it definitely needs to be shrunk. I will be working on some of that lower section before we think about shrinking though just in case it gets better or worse. I don't want to do it twice that is for sure. Mark
I liked your way of pushing out the quarter with a stick and old sanding pad. I’ve used the tig to shrink small little spots like a torch but it’s not great. Once you start using a shrinking disk you’ll never finish a panel again without it
@ All the cheap ones are just a piece of stainless with a flange and hole in middle which do work but are never flat so it bounces and not easy to control. Pro shaper sells them with a backing plate that probably helps but I’ve never used one. The best ones I’ve seen in shops but are very hard to find almost looked like hardend steel with some other metal bonded to it looking almost like a clutch on like the last inch of the disc. A company called sunchaser makes a $200 dollar stainless one that the edge is rippled I’m sure would work good. Nothing beats them for exactly what you’re doing here
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I used a 4.5” on my angle grinder and a 7” on my big sander. I used the 4.5” more than the 7”. Just rub it flat on a small section at a time about a foot square. Don’t turn the metal blue and cool it with water. It will only heat the high spots. I know you may not want to use water.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I got the 4.5” from Amazon I can’t remember where I got the 7”. I have been following your channel since 1950 chevy hood. You do very good work. I would like to send you picture of my truck but I am not sure how.
Hi Mark, I really appreciate your willingness to share your lessons learned. Mistakes are just opportunities to learn. So the slapper spreads the hit over a larger area?
Your Spread sheet is a terrific tool. Please show it every show. I am encouraged by seeing it.
Thanks Daniel, when I add more stuff I will definitely review it with you all.
Mark
Thanks Mark. I have never had any success at shrinking metal, I usually make it worse! I am looking forward to your next video.
Thanks for taking time to teach us.
I think we are learning together on this one. Me on not going for the easy win for sure.
One way or another we will get that panel in better shape than it is now.
Mark
Thanks Mark. I learn so much from your videos.
Thanks, hopefully not the hard way!
Mark
I used a stud welder (dent puller) from harbor freight to apply heat in spots to shrink metal. Then wiped it with a wet cloth. Seemed to work on the few oil cans I was struggling with. I've learned a ton from your metal work.
Thanks for the tip Jason. I just bought one today. I kept waiting for Harbor Freight to put them on sale or some sort of 20% discount coupon but as you know those are never good on welders so I bit the bullet today. I will give your tip a try and see how it works.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I believe they make a tip for it that spreads the heat out a bit but I don't think I bought the special tip... it can be useful as a dent puller in hard to reach places so hopefully you can get your money's worth.
@@shep145 Maybe the spot welder tips fit it, I will check it out.
Thanks
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Hey Mark, quick question. I pulled out a dent in the fender on my 69 Dart but if I push it or lean on it, it will pop back in.... how do you decide if the metal needs to be shrunk or stretched? Its right on the body line so it should be very rigid but can be pushed in with one hand.
@@shep145 Body line dents can be tough to deal with. It sounds like you have to much material somewhere, figuring that out so you can shrink it in the correct spot can be the hard part. If there is no other damage on that panel then the area of the removed dent probably has slightly more metal than it should. First go to the other side in the exact same spot and push lightly and see how it feels then you know what you need on the repair side. What I usually do is to push with just one finger on the oil can area to determine the center of the oil can. I just push lightly to see where it takes the most and least pressure to make it pop and map it out. Generally the area you used the hammer on the most or took the most push when the dent went it is the culprit. Figure out the area of the oil can and then start zeroing in on the area that feels like the center. Start slow with just one shrink with the spot welder and see if the oil can improves, if it does then hit a few more spots around the first one.
Glad to see someone else keep track of expenditures on a build, I've been doing the same for years. Looking forward to figuring out the oil can problem... I have one to fix on the 37. Thanks for the efforts!
Thanks Don, Ruby will cost what she costs but I wanted to show just how much people can expect to spend even doing all the work themselves. I don't know of any other channel even mentioning costs. "We sent the chassis out to have all new suspension installed" " We are installing 2 1/2" stainless exhaust today" "Look at this awesome billet grill we are putting on the truck" Not once do they ever say how much anything costs. Kind of disappointing really.
Watching Foose, Kindig, etc. build some awesome rides with unlimited manpower, design ideas, and budgets is quality entertainment! Though for all their glitz and glamor, I'll get more out of your channel for a "reality build" in one hour than a day watching them. For instance, the tutorial on EDTA rust kill was highly successful for me on all the small parts while the other guys would have simply ordered new parts or more likely not even mention the effort to deal with the rust! Thank again for your channel and looking forward to more!
Love the videos and determination to put the sbsolute minimum filler many people would have already said enough and slapped some going to do my best to stay same way on my lemans look forward to next video
Thanks Brittney, Nothing wrong with filler but shrinkage and cracking can be a huge problem if applied too thick on large flat panels. Back in the day I would have already been leaning towards filler but I know the panel has more to give if I am patient. It is also a great learning experience for me and hopefully some of you.
Mark
Hey Mark, I like your spreadsheet to track costs. I originally thought I didn't want to know, but I think I definitely need to know. Thanks for sharing!
I appreciate you showing all your mistakes. We're all human and hopefully I can avoid some of these on my own project!
Thanks Doug, I am trying to make Project Ruby as real life as possible and costs are a huge part of any build. Unfortunately nobody I have seen talks about the money side. I think it is important to keep the channel real and honest.
Mark
Thanks for the videos it looks awesome
Thanks Doug, we are getting there little by little. I will be glad to get this quarter out of the way that is for sure.
Mark
Kyle Carter has a channel I like to watch. He’s a Neanderthal working in a cave compared to your clean shop, but he is a master at pounding out the dents. He always warns against resorting to shrinking a low crown panel to eliminate an oil can problem without first working out all the dents, and he shows that the oil can will usually disappear once all the dents are taken care of. If you shrink the panel too early in the process it can be really hard to get it all straight. Also, his rule of thumb is not as simple as working from the outside in. He says edges, body lines, high crown, and then low crown areas in that order. On Ruby’s flat ass, you’d be pretty much doing that if you had moved to the bottom after doing that upper body line, as you seem to have worked out yourself!
Thanks Stephen, I will check out his channel if I get a chance. The area that is oil canned was stretched during the initial accident and the shop that fixed it all those years ago just left it caved in to eat up all the extra metal so it definitely needs to be shrunk. I will be working on some of that lower section before we think about shrinking though just in case it gets better or worse. I don't want to do it twice that is for sure.
Mark
I liked your way of pushing out the quarter with a stick and old sanding pad. I’ve used the tig to shrink small little spots like a torch but it’s not great. Once you start using a shrinking disk you’ll never finish a panel again without it
@@trahar6257 I definitely need to get one. Never used one before. Which one do you recommend?
@ All the cheap ones are just a piece of stainless with a flange and hole in middle which do work but are never flat so it bounces and not easy to control. Pro shaper sells them with a backing plate that probably helps but I’ve never used one. The best ones I’ve seen in shops but are very hard to find almost looked like hardend steel with some other metal bonded to it looking almost like a clutch on like the last inch of the disc. A company called sunchaser makes a $200 dollar stainless one that the edge is rippled I’m sure would work good.
Nothing beats them for exactly what you’re doing here
@@trahar6257 Thank you so much I appreciate the help. I will look for one and put it on my Christmas list.
A Shrinking Disc works great I used one on my 63 GMC bed sides and doors.
The type that goes on your grinder/sander? I have only seen one used once and it was on a pretty flat panel like you are describing.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I used a 4.5” on my angle grinder and a 7” on my big sander. I used the 4.5” more than the 7”. Just rub it flat on a small section at a time about a foot square. Don’t turn the metal blue and cool it with water. It will only heat the high spots. I know you may not want to use water.
@@tommybunch413 thanks Tom, where did you buy them?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I got the 4.5” from Amazon I can’t remember where I got the 7”. I have been following your channel since 1950 chevy hood. You do very good work. I would like to send you picture of my truck but I am not sure how.
@@tommybunch413 Email them to me
foothillpaintandfabrication@gmail.com
Hi Mark, I really appreciate your willingness to share your lessons learned. Mistakes are just opportunities to learn.
So the slapper spreads the hit over a larger area?
Hey Ron
Yes and it allows you to control the how it hits the panel more than with a hammer. I think of it like a fine tuning instrument.
Mark