Quarter Panel Continued - Learning How To Use a Slapping Spoon GTO RestoMod (Ep 31)

We are back on the Quarter Panel to see if the new Slapping Spoon I bought and made will help me get this thing straight. Unfortunately I get a surprise while working in the form of an Oil Can Dent.
If you have a project you would like to showcase at the end of one of my videos just email me a few pics and a short description to: [e-mail]
Sheet metal straightening. Body panel straightening. Dent removal. Smoothing sheet metal. Slapping Spoon. Slapper.

[@danielwoodard680]

Your Spread sheet is a terrific tool. Please show it every show. I am encouraged by seeing it.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Daniel, when I add more stuff I will definitely review it with you all.
Mark

[@BusyAsABeaver72]

Thanks Mark. I have never had any success at shrinking metal, I usually make it worse! I am looking forward to your next video.
Thanks for taking time to teach us.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

I think we are learning together on this one. Me on not going for the easy win for sure.
One way or another we will get that panel in better shape than it is now.
Mark

[@shep145]

I used a stud welder (dent puller) from harbor freight to apply heat in spots to shrink metal. Then wiped it with a wet cloth. Seemed to work on the few oil cans I was struggling with. I've learned a ton from your metal work.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks for the tip Jason. I just bought one today. I kept waiting for Harbor Freight to put them on sale or some sort of 20% discount coupon but as you know those are never good on welders so I bit the bullet today. I will give your tip a try and see how it works.
Mark

[@shep145]

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I believe they make a tip for it that spreads the heat out a bit but I don't think I bought the special tip... it can be useful as a dent puller in hard to reach places so hopefully you can get your money's worth.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@shep145 Maybe the spot welder tips fit it, I will check it out.
Thanks

[@douglashart5059]

Hey Mark, I like your spreadsheet to track costs. I originally thought I didn't want to know, but I think I definitely need to know. Thanks for sharing!
I appreciate you showing all your mistakes. We're all human and hopefully I can avoid some of these on my own project!

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Doug, I am trying to make Project Ruby as real life as possible and costs are a huge part of any build. Unfortunately nobody I have seen talks about the money side. I think it is important to keep the channel real and honest.
Mark

[@DonBrantly]

Glad to see someone else keep track of expenditures on a build, I've been doing the same for years. Looking forward to figuring out the oil can problem... I have one to fix on the 37. Thanks for the efforts!

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Don, Ruby will cost what she costs but I wanted to show just how much people can expect to spend even doing all the work themselves. I don't know of any other channel even mentioning costs. "We sent the chassis out to have all new suspension installed" " We are installing 2 1/2" stainless exhaust today" "Look at this awesome billet grill we are putting on the truck" Not once do they ever say how much anything costs. Kind of disappointing really.

[@DonBrantly]

Watching Foose, Kindig, etc. build some awesome rides with unlimited manpower, design ideas, and budgets is quality entertainment! Though for all their glitz and glamor, I'll get more out of your channel for a "reality build" in one hour than a day watching them. For instance, the tutorial on EDTA rust kill was highly successful for me on all the small parts while the other guys would have simply ordered new parts or more likely not even mention the effort to deal with the rust! Thank again for your channel and looking forward to more!

[@T3glider]

Kyle Carter has a channel I like to watch. He’s a Neanderthal working in a cave compared to your clean shop, but he is a master at pounding out the dents. He always warns against resorting to shrinking a low crown panel to eliminate an oil can problem without first working out all the dents, and he shows that the oil can will usually disappear once all the dents are taken care of. If you shrink the panel too early in the process it can be really hard to get it all straight. Also, his rule of thumb is not as simple as working from the outside in. He says edges, body lines, high crown, and then low crown areas in that order. On Ruby’s flat ass, you’d be pretty much doing that if you had moved to the bottom after doing that upper body line, as you seem to have worked out yourself!

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Stephen, I will check out his channel if I get a chance. The area that is oil canned was stretched during the initial accident and the shop that fixed it all those years ago just left it caved in to eat up all the extra metal so it definitely needs to be shrunk. I will be working on some of that lower section before we think about shrinking though just in case it gets better or worse. I don't want to do it twice that is for sure.
Mark

[@lazyhoundracing9621]

Thanks Mark. I learn so much from your videos.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks, hopefully not the hard way!
Mark

[@brittneykappes7952]

Love the videos and determination to put the sbsolute minimum filler many people would have already said enough and slapped some going to do my best to stay same way on my lemans look forward to next video

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Brittney, Nothing wrong with filler but shrinkage and cracking can be a huge problem if applied too thick on large flat panels. Back in the day I would have already been leaning towards filler but I know the panel has more to give if I am patient. It is also a great learning experience for me and hopefully some of you.
Mark

[@dougscriver7726]

Thanks for the videos it looks awesome

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Doug, we are getting there little by little. I will be glad to get this quarter out of the way that is for sure.
Mark

[@tommybunch413]

A Shrinking Disc works great I used one on my 63 GMC bed sides and doors.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

The type that goes on your grinder/sander? I have only seen one used once and it was on a pretty flat panel like you are describing.
Mark

[@tommybunch413]

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I used a 4.5” on my angle grinder and a 7” on my big sander. I used the 4.5” more than the 7”. Just rub it flat on a small section at a time about a foot square. Don’t turn the metal blue and cool it with water. It will only heat the high spots. I know you may not want to use water.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@tommybunch413 thanks Tom, where did you buy them?

[@tommybunch413]

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I got the 4.5” from Amazon I can’t remember where I got the 7”. I have been following your channel since 1950 chevy hood. You do very good work. I would like to send you picture of my truck but I am not sure how.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@tommybunch413 Email them to me
[e-mail]

[@RonWatson-b6u]

Hi Mark, I really appreciate your willingness to share your lessons learned. Mistakes are just opportunities to learn.
So the slapper spreads the hit over a larger area?

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Hey Ron
Yes and it allows you to control the how it hits the panel more than with a hammer. I think of it like a fine tuning instrument.
Mark