The rpm wing mount will break too… I’ve had good luck with the 3D-RC flexible wing mount. Lasting more than either stock or rpm. The other option I ran for a while was to add to turnbuckle from the wing mount to the d block. It’s the opposite solution, making it super stiff.
I did a bunch of testing on the exb gearboxes, I had lateral expansion under load measured with an indicator with the stock plastic bulkheadhead/gearboxes, it didnt matter shimmed or not, and it would lose proper mesh on pinion and ring gear and run through the teeth. Vitavon alum replacements fixed that for me. also had issues with drive cups, using m2c racing hardened ones now zero issues. Had dog bones in rear constantly popping out, bought some GPM front cv's for the rear and that fixed that issue. Im using 8s esc and a 1250kv motor in a 1/8 6s exb, so if its working in that setup anyone else should be bulletproof somewhat. Also I think alum hubs are a must front and rear.
@@eM4rio LOL ya, I know right. Im not too happy about that. Parts have gone up in price too since I bought them. And btw it still breaks every run. lol. Usually something tiny like a rod end or tie rod or arm....but it still breaks something. I get more run time out of the x-maxx and it is run just as hard.
@@TheHundrethmonkey it's sounds that I should stick with Erevo V2 then 😞. It has it's downsides, but the gearing is not an issue there. Only rod ends are which I can have a whole room, and 20 with myself when bashing to just replace them when needed. Shame that the Maxx did not handle as good as the big brother, or Kraton, it could be the best on the market.
The wheels nuts come loose from the wheel stripping out first. I figured this out when I had the left wheel fall off and the right side didn't. When I tried to take the wheel off the right side I had to use a hammer. After inspection the hex stripped out the wheel same as the left but did not fall off due to only stripping out part of the hex on the wheel hence why I couldn't get the wheel off. My conclusion is the hex on the vehicle is too thin so it strips out the plastic then loosens the nut. Personally I think wheel nuts should be reverse thread. If they were reverse thread they would actually tighten as you drive. M2C racing has the fix for stripped wheels so don't throw them away. He also has thicker hexes so this doesn't happen again.
I haven't seen a fix from m2c for actually stripped stock wheels after the fact? I do know about and bought the double nut +2 hex hubs. My wheels are still stripping. So now I bought the grey wheels and trying the aluminum foil hack around the hex. Backed the punch down to 4. Hope I have better luck now.
@@robertlandry8695 -thanks bro. Just ordered them from m2c, gonna find out if they'll be a viable fix for my really stripped Mojave wheels🙄. I know they'd work on brand new wheels but stripped?? I guess we will find out😁
I don't own (Arrma Kraton),but.. testing this rig to get stronger or less good than better, got to go (heavy metal) with it, it's tougher than it looks! Nice one Francis.
M2C racing makes a fix for the shock pedestal and they make a fix for the wheel hex’s the rpm wing mount breaks off the bolts into the shock towers even worse so for me I still bye the stock ones and I purchased bigger hardened bolts and drilled out my shock tower a little bit to support it and the next issue your going to have is shocks them selfs the shock rod end will break or shock shafts will snap m2c sells a better one for both the rear bearings fast eddy bearings didn’t work for me but there better one on the market ceramic sealed bearings ⚠️👍👍good luck I agree this issues should have been solved already on v5/ExB models 💯💯
im using kraton. i killed mid diff once because i did like 10 standing backflips. (I own first gen kraton exb so the rear diff was the main problem) The stock wheels bearing are trash but i bought cheap avid ones i had those now almost a year and nothing happened still rolling freely( an i bash hard and bash much in sand) the wing mount is ok but 2 wings broke while i was in skatepark and the screws that hold wingmount bent badly. The shock upper mount is big weaknes but i bought m2c heavy duty ones and now thats ok. and the last wheel problem never happend with me. {maybe because ur using talion and im using kraton but those cars are pretty similars! but anyways great video like always and dont stop bashing :D
T-Bone Racing bumpers, tail supporter, other cool stuff. They also have a huge jump ramp, which I purchased and it broke my friend’s Kraton on the 5th jump. Both of our 6s Typhons broke parts and his nearly caught on fire.
I'm still not going to buy a higher end ARRMA till all known issues and known parts that break , have been fully sorted out . No one like me wants to buy and spend those high prices on a car that has never been fully sorted out , with such issues .
Awesome video! I have been crawling and racing for a couple of years now but I have just bought my first bashing vehicle. I have chosen ARRMA OUTCAST 6S EXB :) I am wondering if I will have similar problems? :) let's find out! With love from Poland
the problem I have noticed with arrma is they dont put enough droop in their axles so you are bottoming out practically every jump great for keeping a low center of gravity for going fast but it makes them less durable
I want to get another basher, now I'm thinking arma isn't the answer. I like bashing but I dont like feeling like I'm driving something fragile. My redcat drives me nuts how often it breaks compared to my nitro traxxas tmaxx 3.3.
I’m gonna start a channel soon that will help you out with any diff problems and many other things to bring to the table. I’ll get on it this weekend brother and hit you up 👍👊 I only watch this guy to laugh because he clearly has no clue! 😆 guess you should get a bulletproof rig for $469 🤦♂️
@@RCReviewChannel exactly my trucks DOES NOT NEVER land on power and if i was doing that i know it will strip them but i will let the truck crash before i land on power and if ur not doing that no reason we should even be in those diffs but meh ill just stick to tekno losi traxxas etc arrma is good at hyping chit up but not so much as living up to it IMO
First of all your missing a fully molded carbon fiber chassis from hot dog customs brother. Love my kraton ExB and never had center diff strip got 30 hrs on it.
The rpm wing mount will break too… I’ve had good luck with the 3D-RC flexible wing mount. Lasting more than either stock or rpm. The other option I ran for a while was to add to turnbuckle from the wing mount to the d block. It’s the opposite solution, making it super stiff.
good advice. Putting a bigger bolt mount too sounds like a good idea.
I did a bunch of testing on the exb gearboxes, I had lateral expansion under load measured with an indicator with the stock plastic bulkheadhead/gearboxes, it didnt matter shimmed or not, and it would lose proper mesh on pinion and ring gear and run through the teeth. Vitavon alum replacements fixed that for me. also had issues with drive cups, using m2c racing hardened ones now zero issues. Had dog bones in rear constantly popping out, bought some GPM front cv's for the rear and that fixed that issue. Im using 8s esc and a 1250kv motor in a 1/8 6s exb, so if its working in that setup anyone else should be bulletproof somewhat. Also I think alum hubs are a must front and rear.
jesus christ that cost double the exb kit...
@@eM4rio LOL ya, I know right. Im not too happy about that. Parts have gone up in price too since I bought them. And btw it still breaks every run. lol. Usually something tiny like a rod end or tie rod or arm....but it still breaks something. I get more run time out of the x-maxx and it is run just as hard.
@@TheHundrethmonkey it's sounds that I should stick with Erevo V2 then 😞. It has it's downsides, but the gearing is not an issue there. Only rod ends are which I can have a whole room, and 20 with myself when bashing to just replace them when needed. Shame that the Maxx did not handle as good as the big brother, or Kraton, it could be the best on the market.
@@eM4rio Replacing rod ends is no biggie, never ran an E-Revo but they look fun. Durability of any car is user based, what ever works for ya.
Great video! We have only broken a diff cup, sounds like we need to bash it harder this weekend! 😂😁
Things escalate quickly in group settings where there are many Arrmas and Xmaxx's playing
The wheels nuts come loose from the wheel stripping out first. I figured this out when I had the left wheel fall off and the right side didn't. When I tried to take the wheel off the right side I had to use a hammer. After inspection the hex stripped out the wheel same as the left but did not fall off due to only stripping out part of the hex on the wheel hence why I couldn't get the wheel off. My conclusion is the hex on the vehicle is too thin so it strips out the plastic then loosens the nut. Personally I think wheel nuts should be reverse thread. If they were reverse thread they would actually tighten as you drive. M2C racing has the fix for stripped wheels so don't throw them away. He also has thicker hexes so this doesn't happen again.
good info!
I haven't seen a fix from m2c for actually stripped stock wheels after the fact?
I do know about and bought the double nut +2 hex hubs. My wheels are still stripping. So now I bought the grey wheels and trying the aluminum foil hack around the hex. Backed the punch down to 4. Hope I have better luck now.
@@surfside75 m2c had the fix for stripped wheels after the fact. The screws go right through the rim. Look on his website. I did mention them in my op
@@robertlandry8695 -thanks bro. Just ordered them from m2c, gonna find out if they'll be a viable fix for my really stripped Mojave wheels🙄. I know they'd work on brand new wheels but stripped?? I guess we will find out😁
@@surfside75 they are purposely made for stripped wheels. The thicker hexes are made for brand new wheels.
I don't own (Arrma Kraton),but.. testing this rig to get stronger or less good than better, got to go (heavy metal) with it, it's tougher than it looks! Nice one Francis.
Nice. Will check
RPM wing mount is the way to go, you’ll still sheer off those screws but the mount has waaay more flex
You can’t beat the 3DRC wing mounts. Hands down best out there and cheapest you will find. I would love to send you a set to try if you would like.
I need something for my outcast 6s EXB
M2C racing makes a fix for the shock pedestal and they make a fix for the wheel hex’s the rpm wing mount breaks off the bolts into the shock towers even worse so for me I still bye the stock ones and I purchased bigger hardened bolts and drilled out my shock tower a little bit to support it and the next issue your going to have is shocks them selfs the shock rod end will break or shock shafts will snap m2c sells a better one for both the rear bearings fast eddy bearings didn’t work for me but there better one on the market ceramic sealed bearings ⚠️👍👍good luck I agree this issues should have been solved already on v5/ExB models 💯💯
Som brilliant ideas there! Love the bigger bolt for the wing mount and drilling out.
im using kraton. i killed mid diff once because i did like 10 standing backflips. (I own first gen kraton exb so the rear diff was the main problem) The stock wheels bearing are trash but i bought cheap avid ones i had those now almost a year and nothing happened still rolling freely( an i bash hard and bash much in sand) the wing mount is ok but 2 wings broke while i was in skatepark and the screws that hold wingmount bent badly. The shock upper mount is big weaknes but i bought m2c heavy duty ones and now thats ok. and the last wheel problem never happend with me. {maybe because ur using talion and im using kraton but those cars are pretty similars! but anyways great video like always and dont stop bashing :D
love the feedback and real world experience
T-Bone Racing bumpers, tail supporter, other cool stuff. They also have a huge jump ramp, which I purchased and it broke my friend’s Kraton on the 5th jump. Both of our 6s Typhons broke parts and his nearly caught on fire.
Bash life is what it's all about.
I'm still not going to buy a higher end ARRMA till all known issues and known parts that break , have been fully sorted out . No one like me wants to buy and spend those high prices on a car that has never been fully sorted out , with such issues .
Awesome video! I have been crawling and racing for a couple of years now but I have just bought my first bashing vehicle. I have chosen ARRMA OUTCAST 6S EXB :) I am wondering if I will have similar problems? :) let's find out!
With love from Poland
Yup. It's good to be prepared for what we can replace and upgrade when we explore the limits of physics.
I went with vitavon hubs which come with larger bearings.
This makes me like my big rock cc even more.
Yup, simpler and cheaper
Do a video with Gabe showing his Class 1 rig!
he's a legend!
I’m gonna go ahead and make a couple of wild guesses .... 😂
M2C racing makes a hex kit that fixes your striped out wheels so you don't have to throw them away
no way!!!
Great review 👍👍 got a question for u ? What do u think about carbon fiber basher queen products ??
Junk
the problem I have noticed with arrma is they dont put enough droop in their axles so you are bottoming out practically every jump great for keeping a low center of gravity for going fast but it makes them less durable
Interesting. Will look into that when the ramps are out.
That has to do more with shock pistons and oils way more than droop.
I want to get another basher, now I'm thinking arma isn't the answer. I like bashing but I dont like feeling like I'm driving something fragile. My redcat drives me nuts how often it breaks compared to my nitro traxxas tmaxx 3.3.
I've only ever heard customers have issues with 1 out of the 5 in the list.
Right on. Many packs now and these heavy beasts are being sent to the moon
Your list is different from mine.
im done with arrma until they learn how to build diffs
I’m gonna start a channel soon that will help you out with any diff problems and many other things to bring to the table. I’ll get on it this weekend brother and hit you up 👍👊 I only watch this guy to laugh because he clearly has no clue! 😆 guess you should get a bulletproof rig for $469 🤦♂️
broken stuff is reasonable from massive speed and jumps. But diffs stripping is very painful and should not happen!
@@RCReviewChannel exactly my trucks DOES NOT NEVER land on power and if i was doing that i know it will strip them but i will let the truck crash before i land on power and if ur not doing that no reason we should even be in those diffs but meh ill just stick to tekno losi traxxas etc arrma is good at hyping chit up but not so much as living up to it IMO
List was pretty dead on dude! One issue I have still is front doggone popping out under hard landing...
Right? It's a good vehicle but these seem to be what break at the extreme limits.
Gotta remove the washers and also adjust the droop. Also if you want put some fuel tubing in the shock ends.
Guess I'm not getting one of these then.
The Traxxas Maxx and Xmaxx are more durable
Anything will break, if you crash or jump a lot.
Arrma tough!
tough!
@@RCReviewChannel Sorry xD
What about fixing these things? Not gonna mention how to fix the wheels stripping? What was the purpose of this video then?
First of all your missing a fully molded carbon fiber chassis from hot dog customs brother. Love my kraton ExB and never had center diff strip got 30 hrs on it.
. M2C wing brace, and rpm wing mounts for sure. And I stripped bolts going into dif cover, actually pulled thread. Hot Racing dif case solved problem
thank you for this key info!!
You had me as a subscriber until you used Jesus name in vane sorry. Unsubscribed
I guess they are built to be broken.😅
tough enough to break!