How Rock Climbers Stand On Their Toes For Hours - (CUT IN HALF)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
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Best Climbing Shoe? La Sportiva Solution Comp - Chris Sharma, Alex honnald, Adam Ondra, Rishat Khaibullin, Jakob Schubert, and many other professionals use rock climbing shoes as an essential piece of equipment. There are several brands that make climbing shoes like la sportiva, 5.10, Evolve, scarpa, boreal, tenaya, Five Ten, black diamond and many more. I decided on one of the most popular climbing shoes that are used by some of the top pros the la sportiva solution comp
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Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
1:35 Why?
2:00 Shoe Info
2:40 Profile
3:32 Construction
4:29 Outsole
5:03 Midsole
5:30 The Test
8:45 Cut In Half
9:52 Analysis
11:13 Worth it?
#climbing #climbingshoes #lasportiva - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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What’s inside a climbing shoe? Pain. Lots and lots of pain.
And blood
True story.
Old toenails
Poorly aligned toes!
Spot the climber in the comments should be a game
As a climber i was never really bothered by you cutting up boots - but this video made it so so real for me.
same
Broo, trueee
Ya, surely you could have cut up a well used pair
As a Filipino rock climber this hurt. Especially since climbing shoes arent what you can wear on the daily.
Now you know how people who like boots feel with this channel.
Not a climber. Never was or will be, but appreciated learning about the design, engineering and utility of a good climbing shoe.
why not?
Shits bad ass, I go every month. Nothing like testing yourself in the mountains, my wife’s not to fond of it lol
you should try. it is fun.
Looks fun, but nah, maybe some day I'll try it, just some time like once a month, but, I ain't cut out for it.
Keep in mind that model of climbing shoes is specificly designed for overhangs and very steep climbs. Thats why it has a lot of downturn to "hook" holds in overhanging terrain better. All the soft rubber on top and on the heel are made for hard toe-/heelhooks. Thats not a beginner shoe which usually is more flat and has a stiffer midsole&rubber which supports your feet/toes better on a vertical wall or slab.
On an "odd shoe" tangent, I am super fascinated by the construction of ballet pointe shoes, and how most of the modern brands still follow traditional cobbler methods (like turned shoe construction) and materials. It's only in the last decade or two that they've started using more synthetic materials.
True a series of odd, unique, and custom made shoes would be dope
Pointe shoes are fascinating! Would love to see a deconstruction, perhaps of classic vs synthetic
I think that's a discipline where tradition and uniform aesthetic has potentially caused a lot of unnecessary harm. It's a very extreme demand of the foot and surrounding structures, some concerted studies of the biomechanics and applied material science could really improve quality of life. If you've ever seen a ballerina's feet, even a small improvement would make a big difference.
@@natorious314 which is why it would be so interesting to look at more traditional vs. more contemporary pointe shoes with a lot of the latest innovations in materials, while still maintaining some concessions to tradition. Just in the last 10 or so years there's been a lot of 'new' materials and construction techniques that have hit the mainstream and are gaining more traction among professional dancers and dancers-in-training, as well as a growing number of ballet-specific biomechanics and physiology professionals researching and practicing. Now there are shoes with shanks that can be switched out depending on the dancer's needs, different shapes for the shoe block, different materials used for the block, uppers, and soles, etc.
And yes, I've seen a lot of dancer feet as I went to an arts conservatory for high school. The foot health of dancers now vs 20 years ago when I was in high school has improved by leaps and bounds.
Ballet in general is stuck in time and struggling to maintain relevance as modern tastes/audiences/trends evolve. It's unsurprising that the pointe shoes are stuck in time, too.
Would love a mountaineering boot breakdown!
La Sportiva Nepals would be really interesting
@@danhostford9043 there is a lot going on inside mountaineering boots.
I'd love to see differences too. Scarpa, Boreal, La Sportiva. Crampon compatible or not, would love to see it.
La Sportiva, Garmont and HanWag side by side comparison?
Oooh, I'd love to see him take apart a pair of Olympus Mons Cubes.
Britt was cheating, she was standing on the ball of her foot while her toes were hanging over the edge.
Shhh…
She was also touching the wall constantly
@@britthunter1408 Lol
Brit did not understand the assignment
I wish they could’ve have the guts to call her out on that… but I guess they aren’t really being that serious with the competition anyway so I get why they decided to just let her ‘’win’’
Great video! Just a comment, solutions aren’t good climbing shoes to stand on your toes for a long long time because of the softer rubber and split sole design. They are more about being sensitive and having a great balance between edging and smearing (standing on small sharp edges and creating friction on less than ideal footholds)
Something with a harder rubber and more supportive sole like La Sportiva TC pros would be great at standing on your toes for a long time but maybe not so good at smearing.
Spot on! This is not a shoe anyone is going to have on for hours on end. The aggressiveness in shoes like this maximise performance in steep terrain (i.e. overhangs) so that you can hook your toes into small edges and keep your feet on the wall. They also allow good smearing performance on volumes which is essential for competition climbing. Flat shoes, as mentioned in the video and Brian's comment, are much more comfortable and designed for all day use on big walls etc. As such they are going to provide way more foot support and allow you to stand on edges for longer.
You understood the assignment
Glad someone else said this, solutions are normally only used for single pitch sport routes and bouldering and taken off immediately after
The mythos would be interesting to see broke down here as those are leather and built for long times spent on the crag
Love it, lets see a climbing shoe series! You should try to set up a collab with Heinz Mariacher and Nathan Hoette from Scarpa! Heinz designed the Solution back in the day as well as almost every prolific shoe you've probably ever heard of (Muria, Mythos, Testarossa, Scarpa VS line, Furias, Dragos, Boostics, and dozens of others). He's even the reason we have heel cups and toe patches on climbing shoes! He pioneered the complex tension systems in these shoes (and they have drastically evolved in the last few years since he moved from LaSportiva to Scarpa), and both of these guys (the heads of R&D for climbing shoes at Scarpa) are probably the two MOST knowledgeable people in the world on the subject! (Heinz has been designing climbing shoes for over 30 years now).
There's a TON more to the tension systems that could probably warrant a whole video series by themselves, and so many other intricate details that you would never even consider when simply looking at a shoe from a non-designer's perspective! Heinz seems to be fairly off the social media grid, but Nathan would probably be easy to contact! He does all the scarpa climbing shoe demos on the Weight My Rack youtube channel if you want to check out his presentation style.
I love my mythos. Have a high arch they form well.
Pietro Dal Pra as well, he is the climbing shoe design team head I think and designed a bunch of my favourite shoes: Genius, Theory, Speedster.
That‘s really interesting… but now that he works for them i wonder why the scarpa shoes still loose their tension soo much faster than the la sportivas(at least from my experience🤔
Ooh- he can also do some small company shoes like Tulson Tolf as well to see how they compare to major manufacturers!
Had no idea this guy was responsible for most of these important climbing shoes. I have two pairs of La Sportiva Solutions. I'd love to see Heinz explain and compare the different models he's created
As a climber this made me cry watching that cut in half
Would love a rollerskate version of this - especially derby vs artistic vs park skate setups etc.
This!!!!!
would love to see a breakdown of Impalas vs a Moxi boot etc as they are the most popular consumer skates!
Speedskates. Heatmoldable ones. First heatmold. Then cut. Might need an angle grinder.
As a climber, I am living for this kind of video! I always wondered what my shoes would look like bisected, and now I know. I was shocked to see you do climbing shoes, but super happy! Also cool to know you are a climber yourself. Thank you so much for the video. Also, I love the idea of a specialty footwear series. I think that'd be rad.
Check out the Scarpa shoe presentations with Nathan. He always brings out all the parts and shows how they all go onto the shoe
@@seeeeeb9300 Thanks so much for the tip! I definitely will!
Whenever Toaster makes an appearance, it's a guaranteed "LIKE" !
I've owned at least 50 pair of shoes over the years. You are right, beginners often really don't "need" higher performance shoes, but I've seen new climbers progress pretty fast in modern gyms. Hooked toes, high performance rubber, and rubber on the top of the foot all help climbers of any level on overhanging territory, and are pretty useless elsewhere. A stiff shoe is awesome for climbers getting outdoors on granite. Shoes all have their best performance on different terrain, and in my experience higher cost shoes are constructed better and can be resoled 2, 3, or even 4 times. Helping to offset their cost.
RIP Solution comp...
When I started climb the rental rubber was just fine, but I quickly found myself failing in places where the only issue was the cheap, worn out rubber. Bought my climbing shoes and now when I slip I know it’s because I made a mistake.
Would like to see MTB shoes like 510 Freerider.
Would love you to cut some Weightlifting shoes in half, maybe comparing wooden heeled and plastic heeled versions
Ballet pointe shoes would be interesting too. I’m liking the climbing shoes tho. It’s pretty cool to see the construction and why they work the way they do.
Oh wow I just posted the same thing!!
Ballet shoes are supposedly what aggressive shoes like this were originally modeled after.
If your doing specialist shoes, you should do driving shoes! I alway take off my big bulky boots and get into some driving shoes to drive 3 petals in my vintage bimmer. I just got some crappy 40$ pair from the rack but I would like to see a comparison to Todd's mocs ect
This is so cool! I just started climbing about a month ago and learning about the different types of climbing shoes was intense! It’s such a fun workout that stimulates mind and body🏋️♀️
Hey! These are the shoes i have! I abslouty love them but, since these are reletively soft they aren't as good for standing on you tiptoes alot - for alot of tiptoeing like in rock climbing (as opposed to gym climbing shoes like these) youll want harder shoes like the regular solution
Cycling shoes next! Would be cool to do a full series comparing shoes from different sports
I really enjoy the videos lately, I always watch them when they pop up! Currently I’m looking for a good pair of classic loafers and I wondered if you already had videos on them, but you don’t, so there’s a video idea if you could ever get around to it!
Sweet! I like the diversity! As a climber this is a nice change. Thanks.
You don’t know pain until you’ve tried wearing climbing shoes with an ingrown toenail
You got that shet right.
Ooof i felt that
Fuck me, making me so glad I have hardy toenails
Always have a second softer pair on hand, saved many sessions for me
And for most climbs they will do just fine... Nowadays I only sqeeze into my 43 theories for specific climbs with tiny feet or heavy duty toehooks
As a climber I really enjoyed this video. Would like to see a comparison of different types of climbing shoes- bouldering, crack, etc.
I used to do a lot of climbing but always wore more classic climbing shoes. It was really cool seeing the insides of these!
Best crossover of the year!
Also appreciate the research done in understanding the features of the shoe with respect to sport climbing
Love this channel and love climbing, never thought they would come together.
Circa 1997 5.10 lynx was my first climbing shoe. I was a poor high school kid and got a pair 1.5 size too small (even taking in to account buying climbing shoes small) and they hurt but I could practically stand on a dime on the sandstone cliffs of GA and AL. After that in college had the old 5.10 anasazi slippers and they didn't edge as well as the lynx but could stand in them longer. Finally went to the old classic purple sportiva mythos and they were great for long trad climbs. I haven't climbed in nearly 20 years and likely never will again but thanks for this video, brought back great memories of Pigeon Mountain, Sand Rock, Looking Glass, Rocktown, Red River, and other great spots.
there are specialties inside specialties on climbing shoes, ones for longer routes, others for approach, others for very short time boulder, i would love to see a series about all of them, also differences between brands, most popular I believe are La Sportiva, Five.Ten & Scarpa, but there are a lot more, Acopa, BlackDiamond, MadRock.... thanks for the content!
Wow man the production quality of your videos have gone way up. Love to see you being successful
Many utility pole climbers use la sportiva mountaineering boots. Very niche but a video on them and/or comparison between dedicated pole climbing boots from wesco or hoffmans would be awesome.
Left a comment ages ago about wanting to see this done on the channel, I'm soo happy that day has arrived ^^
Great idea, I've definitely learned something here
I've got the women's version of these shoes and they are my favorite ones thus far. Nice toe pockets, a thick heel, and great top of the foot protection for toe hooks.
Finally something related to mountain sports equipment! I was awaitnig for it!
Extremely utilitarian. I’ve skateboarded since 2008. Seeing Vans cut open was never much of a shock. But getting deeper into more niche areas is a joy. Climbing gyms are fun, but the shoes are gnarly.
great vid! Really useful info
Omg love this video, please do a series where you cut open different hiking shoes, alpine boots, etc 🙏
I climb and was literally considering this pair because of the hooked design. Thanks for the video
just got back from a weekend climbing trip wearing la sportiva katanas - super stoked to see this video come up on your channel 🤘🏻
I've been waiting months for you to do a climbing shoe! awesome!
That's so cool never knew about these type of shoes would love to learn about any other different types
Who’d have thought this would be so fascinating. Now I really want to try climbing.
How about ballet toe shoes to compare?
great video, especially the competition.
Please do mountaineering boots! There is a lot of “tech” packed into different kinds of mountaineering boots and it would be amazing to see if that tech exists and how it effects your foot. Love this video!
And cut open a used pair! A shame to cut open an expensive boot
As a climber and someone who works in the outdoor industry I have heard reps describe the features of this shoe . It was really cool to see a pair cut in half!
Just started climbing, so really interesting video!
Wow!! que sopresa, no sabía nada acerca de este tipo de calzado, muy lúdico por cierto!
Great content!
Yes id live to see comparisons between different brands and like beginner vs pro!
yes to more like this but also... an entire episode about Toaster would be much appreesh'd brother!!!!!
Do a minimalist shoe series! Vibram Fivefingers vs. competitors. I want to learn more about minimalist shoes and see how they stack up
i started climbing a few months ago and the getting my first pair of climbing shoes vs. the shoes really changed so much. The amount of pressure I could generate with the tip of my toes skyrocketed. The difference was even more apparent with overhang routes.
Hey boss, I've been watching your videos for quite some time now and I was wondering if you could do a review/cut in half test of the Paraboot Michael's, or even the Mephisto peppos. I would love to see it . Both of the shoes feature a Goodyear/Norwegian welt on them so I am sure you'll find them satisfying. Thank you.
Too funny. Watching this video going to bed in my van in the south main parking lot! Didn't know you were a salt lake person or even a climber rose anvil. I got on to your channel for the boot reviews.
Really the biggest difference in one climbing shoe to another is how aggressive (downturned) the toe is and the rubber type (how sticky/ non sticky it is) these both effect the type of climbing your going to want to do in them and are also very subject to preference
I just got the solution comps. That hurt to watch you slice it. Cool video!!!
Really impressed you chose to cut up one of the most high end/expensive shoe on the market
Really good video! As a climber I found it really interesting.
It was a bit painful seeing it get cut in half, because sportiva comps have been my go-tos for 2 years now
Also, fun to see you filming at my home gym! It’s a small world haha
4:10 Depending on the shoe, for example for more streamlined last (e.g. CP sneaker or dress shoes) your toe should be up to 1 inch from the top due to the more pointy profile of the last.
Far most strange cut in half ASMR ever! But still love to see different type of shoe other than boot, sometimes.
@Mia Thermopolis Renaldi, Witch Queen of Genovia It is when he cuts the shoe by hand.
Worst part of the video, but he’s done better about keeping the music going in the background
Unlike other TH-cam reviewers, I love how fun are Rose Anvil reviews
If you watch any tours of the la Sportiva factory, the price of these shoes is pretty reasonable especially considering that other climbing shoes are made in China and not nearly as nice but still expensive. Each shoe is completely handmade and goes through over 100 stages in it's creation. I recommend looking up the factory videos that show them bein made, it's amazing how much love and care they put into their shoes
Your best video yet. On a shoe that I will never wear. But still, your best ever!
Really cool insights
Thanks for your sharing
this materiał is awesame. Super funny and very interesting. It is really informative to have a peek of what's inside one of the best climbing shoes on the market.
Yeah baby. Been waiting for this since you hinted at being a climber many vids ago. One objection: no need to describe wearers as “professional”. The vast majority of us are amateurs and always will be. Climbing shoes are indeed tools. New Jersey has no sales tax on clothes and shoes, but climbing shoes are taxed just like a cam or any other gear. Gotta ❤️ Italian climbing shoes tho. La Sportiva and Scarpa are my faves. Thank you and your crew!
Yep - I’m not professional but I can tell a massive difference between my Scarpa Helix, Scarpa Maestro and La Sportiva Solution Comp. edging on some outdoor 6b and I could stand on things in the comp that the Maestro would just peel off and the Helix wouldn’t even get off the floor with. The tension in the shoe really gets the power onto your toes.
@@largeformatlandscape why would you climb outdoors with a solution comp? lmfao
@@ugiboogy1111 yeah - so does Stefano Ghisolfi on Megos’s 9c so I imagine they’re OK ;-)
@@largeformatlandscape well now it's a 9b+ not a 9c anymore. it's a massive waste of money to be using those thin and soft rubber shoes outdoors as the average climber. the pros have sponsorships that allow them to burn through shoes as much as they need to. shoes matter a lot more at those high professional grades, but not for the average climber that is still hindered by technique rather than shoe technology
@@ugiboogy1111 If you're burning through shoes that fast then perhaps you need to learn some better footwork. ;-) !! The sole type and thickness on the Soluton Comp is the same as on the Python or even some of their cheaper shoes. Same with the Scarpa versions (Instinct for instance). If I want to pay 10% over the average price of shoes for the solution comp that fits my feet and I climb better on (and if I climb better I wear the sole out less quickly) then I don't see the problem. p.s. Outdoor 6b in the Highlands means tiny holds I can hardly step on in my Scarpa Maestro's. What shoes would you recommend instead out of interest?
I loved this one a lot
5:57 says it all, the stability and lack of shakes on the shot of the climbing shoes.
The aggressive profile of the shoe helps you pull your body closer to the wall with your hamstrings when your on overhanging terrain.
I just bought a pair of Tricker’s, England’s oldest shoes makers. I’m hesitating between Cheaney and Crocket and Jones for my next pair. Would love to see one of your videos on these brands. They all seams extremely well made.
Those climbing shoes are not designed to stay a really long time on a tiny point because the sole is not in one piece from toes to heel. The naked yellow part without rigid sole makes it very articulated. It explained in the la sportiva "know how to choose your shoes".
Another banger of a video!
I always use climbing shoes and you can definitely tell the difference but I've never really considered how they worked. Really interesting video.
it'd be super awesome if you could split more shoes! I just got the evolv Phantoms, and I'd love to see exactly what's going on inside
Please do more climbing shoes! I subscribed just for that. Tenaya Ra's next
I'd be interested to know which type of shoe is better when built with synthetic materials rather than leather?
I rock climb and not only are climbing shoes meant to make it easier to stand on your toes but they also do that you can use your heel and top of toes for hooking and hanging with your feet. You should also get a size or two smaller than your normal shoe size because the shoe is designed to almost curl your toes a little..
This was really cool. Have you considered doing a video where you try to resole a pair? Could be interesting
HI! What about reviewing and cutting in half of a few western boots? Say Justin vs Ariat vs Dan Post and so on?
This was great!
Well, right on climber! Hope you get back to climbing soon brother. Legos was a nice touch.
Hey man! Love your videos. Can you check out the leather quality of some Nike Manoa boots, thanks!
I've always enjoyed your videos. I even bought a pair of boots because of one of your videos (Rock Rooster Moc toe and I love them.) But you're even more cool now after I saw the DragonBall socks. 🤜
I have some black diamond momentum shoes i dont like and only used a few times can i send them in? They are way less aggressive. I also climb the elvov shawmen. Would be cool to see a pair of them cut in half.
Nice to see other people included.
I've watched so many of these videos, but I haven't found where the "cut centred score" was introduced. Can someone please explain it?
@Rose Anvil 1st I LOVE your videos🥰 I think this was such a good idea to talk about a shoe being a tool. But a climbing shoe ISN’T the only shoe that does one special thing then “Any shoe on the world”. Ballet Pointe/Toe Shoes are probably the best special shoe in the world, considering how long they’ve been around, what goes in to make them, and the fact that there Hand made by people that just make the one shoe there whole lives of Prima ballerinas. You should really look into it and do a video on them. I think you’ll be surprised how much goes into making a Pointe/Toe Shoe.
Great video...
Damn right
I would love to see your take on Camper shoes, the Spaniard brand. I like them for comfort but sometimes I thinks they’re overpriced. Thank you for sharing your insights!
Your in depth analysis on climbing shoes is great. Thank you
Nice change of pace
Fun to watch, loved the "match" between the four of you, but the referee sorta stole the show. Nice!
This man singlehandedly creating the greatest workout tutorial I've ever seen. For mf toes
My kid wanted to start bouldering, and I was a bit suspicious about the shoes being expensive... but OK, now I get it! Thanks!
Would love to see a review and your opinion on the Danner mountain light boots. I been wanting to buy a pair but at $400 price point I want to know if they are good!