Keep in mind that model of climbing shoes is specificly designed for overhangs and very steep climbs. Thats why it has a lot of downturn to "hook" holds in overhanging terrain better. All the soft rubber on top and on the heel are made for hard toe-/heelhooks. Thats not a beginner shoe which usually is more flat and has a stiffer midsole&rubber which supports your feet/toes better on a vertical wall or slab.
On an "odd shoe" tangent, I am super fascinated by the construction of ballet pointe shoes, and how most of the modern brands still follow traditional cobbler methods (like turned shoe construction) and materials. It's only in the last decade or two that they've started using more synthetic materials.
I think that's a discipline where tradition and uniform aesthetic has potentially caused a lot of unnecessary harm. It's a very extreme demand of the foot and surrounding structures, some concerted studies of the biomechanics and applied material science could really improve quality of life. If you've ever seen a ballerina's feet, even a small improvement would make a big difference.
@@natorious314 which is why it would be so interesting to look at more traditional vs. more contemporary pointe shoes with a lot of the latest innovations in materials, while still maintaining some concessions to tradition. Just in the last 10 or so years there's been a lot of 'new' materials and construction techniques that have hit the mainstream and are gaining more traction among professional dancers and dancers-in-training, as well as a growing number of ballet-specific biomechanics and physiology professionals researching and practicing. Now there are shoes with shanks that can be switched out depending on the dancer's needs, different shapes for the shoe block, different materials used for the block, uppers, and soles, etc. And yes, I've seen a lot of dancer feet as I went to an arts conservatory for high school. The foot health of dancers now vs 20 years ago when I was in high school has improved by leaps and bounds.
Ballet in general is stuck in time and struggling to maintain relevance as modern tastes/audiences/trends evolve. It's unsurprising that the pointe shoes are stuck in time, too.
Love it, lets see a climbing shoe series! You should try to set up a collab with Heinz Mariacher and Nathan Hoette from Scarpa! Heinz designed the Solution back in the day as well as almost every prolific shoe you've probably ever heard of (Muria, Mythos, Testarossa, Scarpa VS line, Furias, Dragos, Boostics, and dozens of others). He's even the reason we have heel cups and toe patches on climbing shoes! He pioneered the complex tension systems in these shoes (and they have drastically evolved in the last few years since he moved from LaSportiva to Scarpa), and both of these guys (the heads of R&D for climbing shoes at Scarpa) are probably the two MOST knowledgeable people in the world on the subject! (Heinz has been designing climbing shoes for over 30 years now). There's a TON more to the tension systems that could probably warrant a whole video series by themselves, and so many other intricate details that you would never even consider when simply looking at a shoe from a non-designer's perspective! Heinz seems to be fairly off the social media grid, but Nathan would probably be easy to contact! He does all the scarpa climbing shoe demos on the Weight My Rack youtube channel if you want to check out his presentation style.
That‘s really interesting… but now that he works for them i wonder why the scarpa shoes still loose their tension soo much faster than the la sportivas(at least from my experience🤔
Had no idea this guy was responsible for most of these important climbing shoes. I have two pairs of La Sportiva Solutions. I'd love to see Heinz explain and compare the different models he's created
I wish they could’ve have the guts to call her out on that… but I guess they aren’t really being that serious with the competition anyway so I get why they decided to just let her ‘’win’’
Great video! Just a comment, solutions aren’t good climbing shoes to stand on your toes for a long long time because of the softer rubber and split sole design. They are more about being sensitive and having a great balance between edging and smearing (standing on small sharp edges and creating friction on less than ideal footholds) Something with a harder rubber and more supportive sole like La Sportiva TC pros would be great at standing on your toes for a long time but maybe not so good at smearing.
Spot on! This is not a shoe anyone is going to have on for hours on end. The aggressiveness in shoes like this maximise performance in steep terrain (i.e. overhangs) so that you can hook your toes into small edges and keep your feet on the wall. They also allow good smearing performance on volumes which is essential for competition climbing. Flat shoes, as mentioned in the video and Brian's comment, are much more comfortable and designed for all day use on big walls etc. As such they are going to provide way more foot support and allow you to stand on edges for longer.
As a climber, I am living for this kind of video! I always wondered what my shoes would look like bisected, and now I know. I was shocked to see you do climbing shoes, but super happy! Also cool to know you are a climber yourself. Thank you so much for the video. Also, I love the idea of a specialty footwear series. I think that'd be rad.
I've owned at least 50 pair of shoes over the years. You are right, beginners often really don't "need" higher performance shoes, but I've seen new climbers progress pretty fast in modern gyms. Hooked toes, high performance rubber, and rubber on the top of the foot all help climbers of any level on overhanging territory, and are pretty useless elsewhere. A stiff shoe is awesome for climbers getting outdoors on granite. Shoes all have their best performance on different terrain, and in my experience higher cost shoes are constructed better and can be resoled 2, 3, or even 4 times. Helping to offset their cost. RIP Solution comp...
When I started climb the rental rubber was just fine, but I quickly found myself failing in places where the only issue was the cheap, worn out rubber. Bought my climbing shoes and now when I slip I know it’s because I made a mistake.
You should consider cutting a Mountaineering boot like a Scarpa Phantom Tech, or a La sportiva G5, pretty exciting technology goes into creating a light weight ultra stiff mountain boot
Ballet pointe shoes would be interesting too. I’m liking the climbing shoes tho. It’s pretty cool to see the construction and why they work the way they do.
Hey! These are the shoes i have! I abslouty love them but, since these are reletively soft they aren't as good for standing on you tiptoes alot - for alot of tiptoeing like in rock climbing (as opposed to gym climbing shoes like these) youll want harder shoes like the regular solution
Yeah baby. Been waiting for this since you hinted at being a climber many vids ago. One objection: no need to describe wearers as “professional”. The vast majority of us are amateurs and always will be. Climbing shoes are indeed tools. New Jersey has no sales tax on clothes and shoes, but climbing shoes are taxed just like a cam or any other gear. Gotta ❤️ Italian climbing shoes tho. La Sportiva and Scarpa are my faves. Thank you and your crew!
Yep - I’m not professional but I can tell a massive difference between my Scarpa Helix, Scarpa Maestro and La Sportiva Solution Comp. edging on some outdoor 6b and I could stand on things in the comp that the Maestro would just peel off and the Helix wouldn’t even get off the floor with. The tension in the shoe really gets the power onto your toes.
@@largeformatlandscape well now it's a 9b+ not a 9c anymore. it's a massive waste of money to be using those thin and soft rubber shoes outdoors as the average climber. the pros have sponsorships that allow them to burn through shoes as much as they need to. shoes matter a lot more at those high professional grades, but not for the average climber that is still hindered by technique rather than shoe technology
@@ugiboogy1111 If you're burning through shoes that fast then perhaps you need to learn some better footwork. ;-) !! The sole type and thickness on the Soluton Comp is the same as on the Python or even some of their cheaper shoes. Same with the Scarpa versions (Instinct for instance). If I want to pay 10% over the average price of shoes for the solution comp that fits my feet and I climb better on (and if I climb better I wear the sole out less quickly) then I don't see the problem. p.s. Outdoor 6b in the Highlands means tiny holds I can hardly step on in my Scarpa Maestro's. What shoes would you recommend instead out of interest?
Circa 1997 5.10 lynx was my first climbing shoe. I was a poor high school kid and got a pair 1.5 size too small (even taking in to account buying climbing shoes small) and they hurt but I could practically stand on a dime on the sandstone cliffs of GA and AL. After that in college had the old 5.10 anasazi slippers and they didn't edge as well as the lynx but could stand in them longer. Finally went to the old classic purple sportiva mythos and they were great for long trad climbs. I haven't climbed in nearly 20 years and likely never will again but thanks for this video, brought back great memories of Pigeon Mountain, Sand Rock, Looking Glass, Rocktown, Red River, and other great spots.
If your doing specialist shoes, you should do driving shoes! I alway take off my big bulky boots and get into some driving shoes to drive 3 petals in my vintage bimmer. I just got some crappy 40$ pair from the rack but I would like to see a comparison to Todd's mocs ect
If you watch any tours of the la Sportiva factory, the price of these shoes is pretty reasonable especially considering that other climbing shoes are made in China and not nearly as nice but still expensive. Each shoe is completely handmade and goes through over 100 stages in it's creation. I recommend looking up the factory videos that show them bein made, it's amazing how much love and care they put into their shoes
Many utility pole climbers use la sportiva mountaineering boots. Very niche but a video on them and/or comparison between dedicated pole climbing boots from wesco or hoffmans would be awesome.
there are specialties inside specialties on climbing shoes, ones for longer routes, others for approach, others for very short time boulder, i would love to see a series about all of them, also differences between brands, most popular I believe are La Sportiva, Five.Ten & Scarpa, but there are a lot more, Acopa, BlackDiamond, MadRock.... thanks for the content!
Please do mountaineering boots! There is a lot of “tech” packed into different kinds of mountaineering boots and it would be amazing to see if that tech exists and how it effects your foot. Love this video!
I rock climb and not only are climbing shoes meant to make it easier to stand on your toes but they also do that you can use your heel and top of toes for hooking and hanging with your feet. You should also get a size or two smaller than your normal shoe size because the shoe is designed to almost curl your toes a little..
I've got the women's version of these shoes and they are my favorite ones thus far. Nice toe pockets, a thick heel, and great top of the foot protection for toe hooks.
As a climber and someone who works in the outdoor industry I have heard reps describe the features of this shoe . It was really cool to see a pair cut in half!
Really the biggest difference in one climbing shoe to another is how aggressive (downturned) the toe is and the rubber type (how sticky/ non sticky it is) these both effect the type of climbing your going to want to do in them and are also very subject to preference
Extremely utilitarian. I’ve skateboarded since 2008. Seeing Vans cut open was never much of a shock. But getting deeper into more niche areas is a joy. Climbing gyms are fun, but the shoes are gnarly.
This is so cool! I just started climbing about a month ago and learning about the different types of climbing shoes was intense! It’s such a fun workout that stimulates mind and body🏋️♀️
Those climbing shoes are not designed to stay a really long time on a tiny point because the sole is not in one piece from toes to heel. The naked yellow part without rigid sole makes it very articulated. It explained in the la sportiva "know how to choose your shoes".
I've heard Alex Honnold interviewed so many times where he's asked some version of "What is the least amount of gear you can take climbing?". For him, shoes and chalk are the two indispensable items, and if you need to you can always borrow chalk from someone else.
These shoes are crazy good, and among the most comfortable. A new climber will not gain anything from these, and should go for something flatter, these are for intermediate climbers or above, and more towards bouldering. After using multiple types of shoes I would say that these really make a difference, and feel extremely well thought out and well constructed. I am currently on my second pair, my first pair I had resoled, which was good but messed a little with that "shank" thing, IMO, La Sportiva and Scarpa seem to have the most cleverly designed climbing shoes, currently.
Really good video! As a climber I found it really interesting. It was a bit painful seeing it get cut in half, because sportiva comps have been my go-tos for 2 years now Also, fun to see you filming at my home gym! It’s a small world haha
@Mia Thermopolis Renaldi, Witch Queen of Genovia It is when he cuts the shoe by hand. Worst part of the video, but he’s done better about keeping the music going in the background
The competition had a major flaw behind it. Some were standing not on their toes but the balls of their feet. Completely different. You should've had a wall at the front limiting the depth their feet could get on the wooden block
I really enjoy the videos lately, I always watch them when they pop up! Currently I’m looking for a good pair of classic loafers and I wondered if you already had videos on them, but you don’t, so there’s a video idea if you could ever get around to it!
Great video just a tiny correct: most climbers these day do not stand on their toes for hours at a time unless they are climbing multi-pitch/big wall, where they would certainly not be wearing those solutions. Most climbers either boulder (no longer than a few minutes) or single pitch sport climbing (10-20mins usually).
i started climbing a few months ago and the getting my first pair of climbing shoes vs. the shoes really changed so much. The amount of pressure I could generate with the tip of my toes skyrocketed. The difference was even more apparent with overhang routes.
What’s inside? Muscles, tendons, and bones! After climbing for years, I could comfortably stand on each of my little toes. Shoes back in those days came in two kinds EB style rigid shoes that kind of work to stiffen the foot, with modest grip, and super tight socks that were tight on the foot solely to prevent the shoe rotating on the foot when the super sticky rubber had ones body weight on it. The second type back in those early days had zero rigidity, and could be rolled or screwed up just like a sock. Stiffening came later. But guess what, even those early shoes enabled one to stand on ones toes for as long as ones trained fitness permitted. However in reality the limiting factor was the pain ones foot felt simply from wearing the shoes, and having ones foot compressed by two shoe sizes.
One pro tip on choosing a climbing shoe: try as many as you can and find the best fit for your feet (kinda like ski boots). Contrary to popular belief and what some climbers preach, climbing shoes should not hurt or be uncomfortable. A stiffer shoe will help when climbing long routes while softer shoe will be more fun when bouldering.
Initially, what struck me was the similar shape to pre-arched pointe shoes or broken-in ghillies (the soft Irish dance shoe). The pointed toe reminds me of mountain goat hoofs. So maybe there's something about that. Terrible for standing on the tip of your toes though! You need that flat surface that pointe and jig (hard Irish dance shoe) shoes have for toe stands! That goes down to prepping your toes for pointe shoes (Irish dance doesn't require standing on your toes for anywhere near as long). If you don't have the same length for your first three toes, you'll be trying to replicate that effect with taping and padding in your pointe shoes.
@Rose Anvil 1st I LOVE your videos🥰 I think this was such a good idea to talk about a shoe being a tool. But a climbing shoe ISN’T the only shoe that does one special thing then “Any shoe on the world”. Ballet Pointe/Toe Shoes are probably the best special shoe in the world, considering how long they’ve been around, what goes in to make them, and the fact that there Hand made by people that just make the one shoe there whole lives of Prima ballerinas. You should really look into it and do a video on them. I think you’ll be surprised how much goes into making a Pointe/Toe Shoe.
You can get Serta memory foam pillows exactly like that for way cheaper. There is no difference between the Saybrook Pillow and literally any other shredded memory foam pillow. They all literally just use shredded memory foam mattresses
Too funny. Watching this video going to bed in my van in the south main parking lot! Didn't know you were a salt lake person or even a climber rose anvil. I got on to your channel for the boot reviews.
I know this isn't your normal content, and I don't know if you demographics support it, but I'd be super interested in seeing a video about the best women's heels / boots. I struggle to find really comfortable long lasting heels but I haven't found reviews like yours that literally dissect the shoes and discuss why they're better quality
4:10 Depending on the shoe, for example for more streamlined last (e.g. CP sneaker or dress shoes) your toe should be up to 1 inch from the top due to the more pointy profile of the last.
Interesting. I am always looking for shoes that have toes that will withstand toe walking. I have a family member who has a physical disability and uses a posterior walker, but still walks on his toes. Hard court tennis shoes have been the best, but lately most of the manufacturers are substituting synthetic material for leather (even in $85 - $100 shoes). I try to find some that won’t wear completely through in less than three months. There is more choice now due to the popularity of pickleball.
I am in a pickle, jar. Can you consider making a review on the Columbia Men's 100MW™ Titanium OutDry™ Hiking Boot (yes, i copy and pasted that). thank you... God bless
I have a pair of LA Sportiva hiking boots . I hiked in the Andes Mountains in Peru with them. I did the same in Alberta . They have been on a trip to the desert . Now I wear them in toronto in the winter . They really are good boots. ( not that great looking like my Thursday or wolverine ) lol
I think you're misunderstanding how the shoes are supposed to fit and how they work. The toe box on aggressive shoes is so large because the neutral position has your toes crammed into the end curled, tensioning the entire foot into an arch. You're not supposed to have your toes, or foot, lying flat like at 9:55. It's kind of like locking off your fingers in a crimper: your toes are supposed to be crammed in so tightly that you're hinging almost entirely from the proximal phalanges while the rest of your toes are more or less static. The mechanical advantage is conveyed by the shape your foot is forced to conform to, not by the shoe itself. Looking at 3:08 and 10:47, I'd say the shoes are a size or two too large for the climber: the toe box looks empty and the toes are hinging on multiple joints (i.e. the foot is flat). If they were properly fitted, the toe box would never look deflated because your middle phalanges are always forced against the top of the box.
Fuck , who else said "imma go to sleep" but you where too high to remember and entered a video this cool , and then see it for 12 minutes straight XD . while knowing dam well you need to wake up tomorrow?
You should have made this video a collab with Alex Honnold. See the video at 00:54 he's talking about the same brand climbing shoes. And by the way I like the burgundy boots with the Dr Sole Originals ripple outsoles 👍🏻
Get a high quality wallet, belt or MORE in the Rose Anvil shop here - bit.ly/44jXLNu
As a climber i was never really bothered by you cutting up boots - but this video made it so so real for me.
same
Broo, trueee
Ya, surely you could have cut up a well used pair
As a Filipino rock climber this hurt. Especially since climbing shoes arent what you can wear on the daily.
Now you know how people who like boots feel with this channel.
What’s inside a climbing shoe? Pain. Lots and lots of pain.
And blood
True story.
Old toenails
Poorly aligned toes!
Spot the climber in the comments should be a game
Not a climber. Never was or will be, but appreciated learning about the design, engineering and utility of a good climbing shoe.
why not?
Shits bad ass, I go every month. Nothing like testing yourself in the mountains, my wife’s not to fond of it lol
you should try. it is fun.
Looks fun, but nah, maybe some day I'll try it, just some time like once a month, but, I ain't cut out for it.
Keep in mind that model of climbing shoes is specificly designed for overhangs and very steep climbs. Thats why it has a lot of downturn to "hook" holds in overhanging terrain better. All the soft rubber on top and on the heel are made for hard toe-/heelhooks. Thats not a beginner shoe which usually is more flat and has a stiffer midsole&rubber which supports your feet/toes better on a vertical wall or slab.
On an "odd shoe" tangent, I am super fascinated by the construction of ballet pointe shoes, and how most of the modern brands still follow traditional cobbler methods (like turned shoe construction) and materials. It's only in the last decade or two that they've started using more synthetic materials.
True a series of odd, unique, and custom made shoes would be dope
Pointe shoes are fascinating! Would love to see a deconstruction, perhaps of classic vs synthetic
I think that's a discipline where tradition and uniform aesthetic has potentially caused a lot of unnecessary harm. It's a very extreme demand of the foot and surrounding structures, some concerted studies of the biomechanics and applied material science could really improve quality of life. If you've ever seen a ballerina's feet, even a small improvement would make a big difference.
@@natorious314 which is why it would be so interesting to look at more traditional vs. more contemporary pointe shoes with a lot of the latest innovations in materials, while still maintaining some concessions to tradition. Just in the last 10 or so years there's been a lot of 'new' materials and construction techniques that have hit the mainstream and are gaining more traction among professional dancers and dancers-in-training, as well as a growing number of ballet-specific biomechanics and physiology professionals researching and practicing. Now there are shoes with shanks that can be switched out depending on the dancer's needs, different shapes for the shoe block, different materials used for the block, uppers, and soles, etc.
And yes, I've seen a lot of dancer feet as I went to an arts conservatory for high school. The foot health of dancers now vs 20 years ago when I was in high school has improved by leaps and bounds.
Ballet in general is stuck in time and struggling to maintain relevance as modern tastes/audiences/trends evolve. It's unsurprising that the pointe shoes are stuck in time, too.
Would love a mountaineering boot breakdown!
La Sportiva Nepals would be really interesting
@@danhostford9043 there is a lot going on inside mountaineering boots.
I'd love to see differences too. Scarpa, Boreal, La Sportiva. Crampon compatible or not, would love to see it.
La Sportiva, Garmont and HanWag side by side comparison?
Oooh, I'd love to see him take apart a pair of Olympus Mons Cubes.
Love it, lets see a climbing shoe series! You should try to set up a collab with Heinz Mariacher and Nathan Hoette from Scarpa! Heinz designed the Solution back in the day as well as almost every prolific shoe you've probably ever heard of (Muria, Mythos, Testarossa, Scarpa VS line, Furias, Dragos, Boostics, and dozens of others). He's even the reason we have heel cups and toe patches on climbing shoes! He pioneered the complex tension systems in these shoes (and they have drastically evolved in the last few years since he moved from LaSportiva to Scarpa), and both of these guys (the heads of R&D for climbing shoes at Scarpa) are probably the two MOST knowledgeable people in the world on the subject! (Heinz has been designing climbing shoes for over 30 years now).
There's a TON more to the tension systems that could probably warrant a whole video series by themselves, and so many other intricate details that you would never even consider when simply looking at a shoe from a non-designer's perspective! Heinz seems to be fairly off the social media grid, but Nathan would probably be easy to contact! He does all the scarpa climbing shoe demos on the Weight My Rack youtube channel if you want to check out his presentation style.
I love my mythos. Have a high arch they form well.
Pietro Dal Pra as well, he is the climbing shoe design team head I think and designed a bunch of my favourite shoes: Genius, Theory, Speedster.
That‘s really interesting… but now that he works for them i wonder why the scarpa shoes still loose their tension soo much faster than the la sportivas(at least from my experience🤔
Ooh- he can also do some small company shoes like Tulson Tolf as well to see how they compare to major manufacturers!
Had no idea this guy was responsible for most of these important climbing shoes. I have two pairs of La Sportiva Solutions. I'd love to see Heinz explain and compare the different models he's created
Britt was cheating, she was standing on the ball of her foot while her toes were hanging over the edge.
Shhh…
She was also touching the wall constantly
@@britthunter1408 Lol
Brit did not understand the assignment
I wish they could’ve have the guts to call her out on that… but I guess they aren’t really being that serious with the competition anyway so I get why they decided to just let her ‘’win’’
Great video! Just a comment, solutions aren’t good climbing shoes to stand on your toes for a long long time because of the softer rubber and split sole design. They are more about being sensitive and having a great balance between edging and smearing (standing on small sharp edges and creating friction on less than ideal footholds)
Something with a harder rubber and more supportive sole like La Sportiva TC pros would be great at standing on your toes for a long time but maybe not so good at smearing.
Spot on! This is not a shoe anyone is going to have on for hours on end. The aggressiveness in shoes like this maximise performance in steep terrain (i.e. overhangs) so that you can hook your toes into small edges and keep your feet on the wall. They also allow good smearing performance on volumes which is essential for competition climbing. Flat shoes, as mentioned in the video and Brian's comment, are much more comfortable and designed for all day use on big walls etc. As such they are going to provide way more foot support and allow you to stand on edges for longer.
You understood the assignment
Glad someone else said this, solutions are normally only used for single pitch sport routes and bouldering and taken off immediately after
The mythos would be interesting to see broke down here as those are leather and built for long times spent on the crag
As a climber, I am living for this kind of video! I always wondered what my shoes would look like bisected, and now I know. I was shocked to see you do climbing shoes, but super happy! Also cool to know you are a climber yourself. Thank you so much for the video. Also, I love the idea of a specialty footwear series. I think that'd be rad.
Check out the Scarpa shoe presentations with Nathan. He always brings out all the parts and shows how they all go onto the shoe
@@seeeeeb9300 Thanks so much for the tip! I definitely will!
I've owned at least 50 pair of shoes over the years. You are right, beginners often really don't "need" higher performance shoes, but I've seen new climbers progress pretty fast in modern gyms. Hooked toes, high performance rubber, and rubber on the top of the foot all help climbers of any level on overhanging territory, and are pretty useless elsewhere. A stiff shoe is awesome for climbers getting outdoors on granite. Shoes all have their best performance on different terrain, and in my experience higher cost shoes are constructed better and can be resoled 2, 3, or even 4 times. Helping to offset their cost.
RIP Solution comp...
When I started climb the rental rubber was just fine, but I quickly found myself failing in places where the only issue was the cheap, worn out rubber. Bought my climbing shoes and now when I slip I know it’s because I made a mistake.
Would love a rollerskate version of this - especially derby vs artistic vs park skate setups etc.
This!!!!!
would love to see a breakdown of Impalas vs a Moxi boot etc as they are the most popular consumer skates!
Speedskates. Heatmoldable ones. First heatmold. Then cut. Might need an angle grinder.
As a climber this made me cry watching that cut in half
You should consider cutting a Mountaineering boot like a Scarpa Phantom Tech, or a La sportiva G5, pretty exciting technology goes into creating a light weight ultra stiff mountain boot
Whenever Toaster makes an appearance, it's a guaranteed "LIKE" !
Sweet! I like the diversity! As a climber this is a nice change. Thanks.
Ballet pointe shoes would be interesting too. I’m liking the climbing shoes tho. It’s pretty cool to see the construction and why they work the way they do.
Oh wow I just posted the same thing!!
Ballet shoes are supposedly what aggressive shoes like this were originally modeled after.
Hey! These are the shoes i have! I abslouty love them but, since these are reletively soft they aren't as good for standing on you tiptoes alot - for alot of tiptoeing like in rock climbing (as opposed to gym climbing shoes like these) youll want harder shoes like the regular solution
Would like to see MTB shoes like 510 Freerider.
Yeah baby. Been waiting for this since you hinted at being a climber many vids ago. One objection: no need to describe wearers as “professional”. The vast majority of us are amateurs and always will be. Climbing shoes are indeed tools. New Jersey has no sales tax on clothes and shoes, but climbing shoes are taxed just like a cam or any other gear. Gotta ❤️ Italian climbing shoes tho. La Sportiva and Scarpa are my faves. Thank you and your crew!
Yep - I’m not professional but I can tell a massive difference between my Scarpa Helix, Scarpa Maestro and La Sportiva Solution Comp. edging on some outdoor 6b and I could stand on things in the comp that the Maestro would just peel off and the Helix wouldn’t even get off the floor with. The tension in the shoe really gets the power onto your toes.
@@largeformatlandscape why would you climb outdoors with a solution comp? lmfao
@@ugiboogy1111 yeah - so does Stefano Ghisolfi on Megos’s 9c so I imagine they’re OK ;-)
@@largeformatlandscape well now it's a 9b+ not a 9c anymore. it's a massive waste of money to be using those thin and soft rubber shoes outdoors as the average climber. the pros have sponsorships that allow them to burn through shoes as much as they need to. shoes matter a lot more at those high professional grades, but not for the average climber that is still hindered by technique rather than shoe technology
@@ugiboogy1111 If you're burning through shoes that fast then perhaps you need to learn some better footwork. ;-) !! The sole type and thickness on the Soluton Comp is the same as on the Python or even some of their cheaper shoes. Same with the Scarpa versions (Instinct for instance). If I want to pay 10% over the average price of shoes for the solution comp that fits my feet and I climb better on (and if I climb better I wear the sole out less quickly) then I don't see the problem. p.s. Outdoor 6b in the Highlands means tiny holds I can hardly step on in my Scarpa Maestro's. What shoes would you recommend instead out of interest?
You don’t know pain until you’ve tried wearing climbing shoes with an ingrown toenail
You got that shet right.
Ooof i felt that
Fuck me, making me so glad I have hardy toenails
Always have a second softer pair on hand, saved many sessions for me
And for most climbs they will do just fine... Nowadays I only sqeeze into my 43 theories for specific climbs with tiny feet or heavy duty toehooks
Circa 1997 5.10 lynx was my first climbing shoe. I was a poor high school kid and got a pair 1.5 size too small (even taking in to account buying climbing shoes small) and they hurt but I could practically stand on a dime on the sandstone cliffs of GA and AL. After that in college had the old 5.10 anasazi slippers and they didn't edge as well as the lynx but could stand in them longer. Finally went to the old classic purple sportiva mythos and they were great for long trad climbs. I haven't climbed in nearly 20 years and likely never will again but thanks for this video, brought back great memories of Pigeon Mountain, Sand Rock, Looking Glass, Rocktown, Red River, and other great spots.
Would love you to cut some Weightlifting shoes in half, maybe comparing wooden heeled and plastic heeled versions
As a climber I really enjoyed this video. Would like to see a comparison of different types of climbing shoes- bouldering, crack, etc.
If your doing specialist shoes, you should do driving shoes! I alway take off my big bulky boots and get into some driving shoes to drive 3 petals in my vintage bimmer. I just got some crappy 40$ pair from the rack but I would like to see a comparison to Todd's mocs ect
If you watch any tours of the la Sportiva factory, the price of these shoes is pretty reasonable especially considering that other climbing shoes are made in China and not nearly as nice but still expensive. Each shoe is completely handmade and goes through over 100 stages in it's creation. I recommend looking up the factory videos that show them bein made, it's amazing how much love and care they put into their shoes
Many utility pole climbers use la sportiva mountaineering boots. Very niche but a video on them and/or comparison between dedicated pole climbing boots from wesco or hoffmans would be awesome.
there are specialties inside specialties on climbing shoes, ones for longer routes, others for approach, others for very short time boulder, i would love to see a series about all of them, also differences between brands, most popular I believe are La Sportiva, Five.Ten & Scarpa, but there are a lot more, Acopa, BlackDiamond, MadRock.... thanks for the content!
Please do mountaineering boots! There is a lot of “tech” packed into different kinds of mountaineering boots and it would be amazing to see if that tech exists and how it effects your foot. Love this video!
And cut open a used pair! A shame to cut open an expensive boot
I rock climb and not only are climbing shoes meant to make it easier to stand on your toes but they also do that you can use your heel and top of toes for hooking and hanging with your feet. You should also get a size or two smaller than your normal shoe size because the shoe is designed to almost curl your toes a little..
How about ballet toe shoes to compare?
Cycling shoes next! Would be cool to do a full series comparing shoes from different sports
I've got the women's version of these shoes and they are my favorite ones thus far. Nice toe pockets, a thick heel, and great top of the foot protection for toe hooks.
As a climber and someone who works in the outdoor industry I have heard reps describe the features of this shoe . It was really cool to see a pair cut in half!
Really the biggest difference in one climbing shoe to another is how aggressive (downturned) the toe is and the rubber type (how sticky/ non sticky it is) these both effect the type of climbing your going to want to do in them and are also very subject to preference
Extremely utilitarian. I’ve skateboarded since 2008. Seeing Vans cut open was never much of a shock. But getting deeper into more niche areas is a joy. Climbing gyms are fun, but the shoes are gnarly.
This is so cool! I just started climbing about a month ago and learning about the different types of climbing shoes was intense! It’s such a fun workout that stimulates mind and body🏋️♀️
Those climbing shoes are not designed to stay a really long time on a tiny point because the sole is not in one piece from toes to heel. The naked yellow part without rigid sole makes it very articulated. It explained in the la sportiva "know how to choose your shoes".
I've heard Alex Honnold interviewed so many times where he's asked some version of "What is the least amount of gear you can take climbing?". For him, shoes and chalk are the two indispensable items, and if you need to you can always borrow chalk from someone else.
Great idea, I've definitely learned something here
These shoes are crazy good, and among the most comfortable. A new climber will not gain anything from these, and should go for something flatter, these are for intermediate climbers or above, and more towards bouldering.
After using multiple types of shoes I would say that these really make a difference, and feel extremely well thought out and well constructed. I am currently on my second pair, my first pair I had resoled, which was good but messed a little with that "shank" thing,
IMO, La Sportiva and Scarpa seem to have the most cleverly designed climbing shoes, currently.
I used to do a lot of climbing but always wore more classic climbing shoes. It was really cool seeing the insides of these!
5:57 says it all, the stability and lack of shakes on the shot of the climbing shoes.
Really good video! As a climber I found it really interesting.
It was a bit painful seeing it get cut in half, because sportiva comps have been my go-tos for 2 years now
Also, fun to see you filming at my home gym! It’s a small world haha
Cutting those in half sounded like you were murdering a baby dolphin.
Least it was Tuna Free
Left a comment ages ago about wanting to see this done on the channel, I'm soo happy that day has arrived ^^
Really impressed you chose to cut up one of the most high end/expensive shoe on the market
Far most strange cut in half ASMR ever! But still love to see different type of shoe other than boot, sometimes.
@Mia Thermopolis Renaldi, Witch Queen of Genovia It is when he cuts the shoe by hand.
Worst part of the video, but he’s done better about keeping the music going in the background
The competition had a major flaw behind it. Some were standing not on their toes but the balls of their feet. Completely different.
You should've had a wall at the front limiting the depth their feet could get on the wooden block
I really enjoy the videos lately, I always watch them when they pop up! Currently I’m looking for a good pair of classic loafers and I wondered if you already had videos on them, but you don’t, so there’s a video idea if you could ever get around to it!
Great video just a tiny correct: most climbers these day do not stand on their toes for hours at a time unless they are climbing multi-pitch/big wall, where they would certainly not be wearing those solutions. Most climbers either boulder (no longer than a few minutes) or single pitch sport climbing (10-20mins usually).
i started climbing a few months ago and the getting my first pair of climbing shoes vs. the shoes really changed so much. The amount of pressure I could generate with the tip of my toes skyrocketed. The difference was even more apparent with overhang routes.
Wow man the production quality of your videos have gone way up. Love to see you being successful
The aggressive profile of the shoe helps you pull your body closer to the wall with your hamstrings when your on overhanging terrain.
What’s inside? Muscles, tendons, and bones! After climbing for years, I could comfortably stand on each of my little toes.
Shoes back in those days came in two kinds EB style rigid shoes that kind of work to stiffen the foot, with modest grip, and super tight socks that were tight on the foot solely to prevent the shoe rotating on the foot when the super sticky rubber had ones body weight on it.
The second type back in those early days had zero rigidity, and could be rolled or screwed up just like a sock.
Stiffening came later. But guess what, even those early shoes enabled one to stand on ones toes for as long as ones trained fitness permitted. However in reality the limiting factor was the pain ones foot felt simply from wearing the shoes, and having ones foot compressed by two shoe sizes.
Do a minimalist shoe series! Vibram Fivefingers vs. competitors. I want to learn more about minimalist shoes and see how they stack up
Do weightlifting shoes! Want to see a comparison between adipowers and romaleos
Best crossover of the year!
Also appreciate the research done in understanding the features of the shoe with respect to sport climbing
Unlike other TH-cam reviewers, I love how fun are Rose Anvil reviews
One pro tip on choosing a climbing shoe: try as many as you can and find the best fit for your feet (kinda like ski boots). Contrary to popular belief and what some climbers preach, climbing shoes should not hurt or be uncomfortable. A stiffer shoe will help when climbing long routes while softer shoe will be more fun when bouldering.
Who’d have thought this would be so fascinating. Now I really want to try climbing.
Initially, what struck me was the similar shape to pre-arched pointe shoes or broken-in ghillies (the soft Irish dance shoe).
The pointed toe reminds me of mountain goat hoofs. So maybe there's something about that.
Terrible for standing on the tip of your toes though! You need that flat surface that pointe and jig (hard Irish dance shoe) shoes have for toe stands! That goes down to prepping your toes for pointe shoes (Irish dance doesn't require standing on your toes for anywhere near as long). If you don't have the same length for your first three toes, you'll be trying to replicate that effect with taping and padding in your pointe shoes.
@Rose Anvil 1st I LOVE your videos🥰 I think this was such a good idea to talk about a shoe being a tool. But a climbing shoe ISN’T the only shoe that does one special thing then “Any shoe on the world”. Ballet Pointe/Toe Shoes are probably the best special shoe in the world, considering how long they’ve been around, what goes in to make them, and the fact that there Hand made by people that just make the one shoe there whole lives of Prima ballerinas. You should really look into it and do a video on them. I think you’ll be surprised how much goes into making a Pointe/Toe Shoe.
That's so cool never knew about these type of shoes would love to learn about any other different types
I loved this one a lot
just got back from a weekend climbing trip wearing la sportiva katanas - super stoked to see this video come up on your channel 🤘🏻
yes to more like this but also... an entire episode about Toaster would be much appreesh'd brother!!!!!
You can get Serta memory foam pillows exactly like that for way cheaper. There is no difference between the Saybrook Pillow and literally any other shredded memory foam pillow. They all literally just use shredded memory foam mattresses
MTB shoes, clipless vs flat, rubber compounds, etc. BOA systems vs classic lace vs lace + Velcro. Would make a cool video.
Too funny. Watching this video going to bed in my van in the south main parking lot! Didn't know you were a salt lake person or even a climber rose anvil. I got on to your channel for the boot reviews.
I used to free solo in cowboy boots and no chalk. Hard, but doable
My kid wanted to start bouldering, and I was a bit suspicious about the shoes being expensive... but OK, now I get it! Thanks!
I know this isn't your normal content, and I don't know if you demographics support it, but I'd be super interested in seeing a video about the best women's heels / boots. I struggle to find really comfortable long lasting heels but I haven't found reviews like yours that literally dissect the shoes and discuss why they're better quality
Finally something related to mountain sports equipment! I was awaitnig for it!
I've been trying to buy the solution comp for weeks and its out of stock everywhere, then this mans goes and just cut a pair in half
HI! What about reviewing and cutting in half of a few western boots? Say Justin vs Ariat vs Dan Post and so on?
Omg love this video, please do a series where you cut open different hiking shoes, alpine boots, etc 🙏
Just started climbing, so really interesting video!
I climb and was literally considering this pair because of the hooked design. Thanks for the video
4:10 Depending on the shoe, for example for more streamlined last (e.g. CP sneaker or dress shoes) your toe should be up to 1 inch from the top due to the more pointy profile of the last.
Interesting. I am always looking for shoes that have toes that will withstand toe walking. I have a family member who has a physical disability and uses a posterior walker, but still walks on his toes. Hard court tennis shoes have been the best, but lately most of the manufacturers are substituting synthetic material for leather (even in $85 - $100 shoes). I try to find some that won’t wear completely through in less than three months. There is more choice now due to the popularity of pickleball.
Depending on the age, I'd check out thrift stores for leather shoes.
Do Vans Ultrarange next! possibly even comparing the Rapidwelds to the EXOs and the EXO SEs
I say next, but what I really mean is a couple months down the line when you are able to gather all the materials and produce the content babey
as an experienced climber,I've seen how climbers downsize their climbing shoes 2 or 3 size smaller when their normal walking ones are us8/uk8.
I am in a pickle, jar. Can you consider making a review on the Columbia Men's 100MW™ Titanium OutDry™ Hiking Boot (yes, i copy and pasted that). thank you... God bless
I just got the solution comps. That hurt to watch you slice it. Cool video!!!
The Legos were a nice touch. I can hear my dad hollering after stepping on one. Oh the good ole days
Climber here. Thank you for this video and thank god those La Sportiva shoes aren't in my size or I'd be devastated that you cut them in half
I love La Sportiva as a brand. I have their runner shoes for hill.
I always use climbing shoes and you can definitely tell the difference but I've never really considered how they worked. Really interesting video.
Could you do a video on Irish setter wing shooters or Farmington’s?
I have a pair of LA Sportiva hiking boots . I hiked in the Andes Mountains in Peru with them. I did the same in Alberta . They have been on a trip to the desert . Now I wear them in toronto in the winter . They really are good boots. ( not that great looking like my Thursday or wolverine ) lol
I think you're misunderstanding how the shoes are supposed to fit and how they work. The toe box on aggressive shoes is so large because the neutral position has your toes crammed into the end curled, tensioning the entire foot into an arch. You're not supposed to have your toes, or foot, lying flat like at 9:55. It's kind of like locking off your fingers in a crimper: your toes are supposed to be crammed in so tightly that you're hinging almost entirely from the proximal phalanges while the rest of your toes are more or less static. The mechanical advantage is conveyed by the shape your foot is forced to conform to, not by the shoe itself.
Looking at 3:08 and 10:47, I'd say the shoes are a size or two too large for the climber: the toe box looks empty and the toes are hinging on multiple joints (i.e. the foot is flat). If they were properly fitted, the toe box would never look deflated because your middle phalanges are always forced against the top of the box.
Fuck , who else said "imma go to sleep" but you where too high to remember and entered a video this cool , and then see it for 12 minutes straight XD . while knowing dam well you need to wake up tomorrow?
Love this channel and love climbing, never thought they would come together.
Bamboo pillows are great!
Now, back to cutting shoes in half.
Nice to see other people included.
This was really cool. Have you considered doing a video where you try to resole a pair? Could be interesting
Your best video yet. On a shoe that I will never wear. But still, your best ever!
You should have made this video a collab with Alex Honnold. See the video at 00:54 he's talking about the same brand climbing shoes.
And by the way I like the burgundy boots with the Dr Sole Originals ripple outsoles 👍🏻