Brian, every video I watch shows the perfect stone splitting scenario; never any problems. In my case I have a lot full of boulders, all below ground and they are a pain for gardiening etc. I just want them gone. Most are basalt and respond to 5/8" holes and 5/8" wedge and feathers.Recently I encountered a few rocks that seem to be hard at least to drill and the W&F in a line no matter how tight at best can cause a couple of small rock chips say part of the top layer skin to break off. It would take months to dispose of a rock this way. I assume the rock is porous/permeable and it internally deforms to absorb the stress from the W&F. Have you ever experienced this problem and if so do you have any suggestions or ideas? thanks!
Hello, yes it is not uncommon for rocks not to split well with feathers and wedges. A few thoughts: If the rock is not free to open the split will often go awry. If rock needs to be clear on the side and and underneath so the weight of the rock is helping to open the split. If it is held in tight by soil, its own weight by being supported all the way across underneath etc it is much less likely to split well. 5/8" feathers and wedges are generally good to split up to about 18" thick in granite. Other stones may be less depending on grain and crystal formation in the rocks. If you're trying to split anything thicker you need to use a larger size of feather and wedge. Generally up to 4 to 6 times the length of the wedge is the max you split though. This technique won't work well in rocks that are soft or have a grain (like slate or shist) and you are going against the grain.
@@brianpost1448 Thanks for responding Brian. Since writing you several things have happened. My usual problem rocks are basalt boulders that sing and crack nicely with 5/8 W&F. My problem child was a 36"x36" x 24" deep rock that was very hard, but no well defined crystals or grains, but aparently some porosity because it did not respond to the w&f, only slight spalling or chipping (no large fractures). So I bought a pail of dexpan and got a 1-1/2" drill bit. Within 3 hours of filling the holes the boulder broke into several large chunks. To remove from the hole I also purchased 1" W&F. With these I was able to break the large chunks into a more manageable size for removal. I use a Bosch 11264 rotary hammer drill which makes drilling large holes easy. Who says there is no science behind rock splitting. Hoping this is the last rock I will encounter.
Generally the depth of the hole is the length of the straight part of the feathers (side shims). Drilling deeper will make it look modern and is generally unnecessary. In a few stone types or situations drilling deeper can help direct the crack, but in the vast majority of most cases is comply unnecessary. Also if you're splitting smaller or thiner stones, dont drill more more than about 2/3 of the thickness of the stone, so the hole might be shallower than the length of the feather. If needed reduce the hole diameter in those cases.
That dull thunk is a very welcome sound on a hot day !
Awesome, hope to attend a workshop
Any chance u could do a video showing cutting a rock down into natural stone veneers? Good stuff, keep it up!
Collin Rortvedt I second that.
I'll keep it in mind however, as my work is in traditional dry stone walling and historic masonry restoration, veneer is not something I typically do.
Use one feather from the next size up
What do people who buy these use them for?
Brian, every video I watch shows the perfect stone splitting scenario; never any problems. In my case I have a lot full of boulders, all below ground and they are a pain for gardiening etc. I just want them gone. Most are basalt and respond to 5/8" holes and 5/8" wedge and feathers.Recently I encountered a few rocks that seem to be hard at least to drill and the W&F in a line no matter how tight at best can cause a couple of small rock chips say part of the top layer skin to break off. It would take months to dispose of a rock this way. I assume the rock is porous/permeable and it internally deforms to absorb the stress from the W&F. Have you ever experienced this problem and if so do you have any suggestions or ideas? thanks!
Hello, yes it is not uncommon for rocks not to split well with feathers and wedges. A few thoughts: If the rock is not free to open the split will often go awry. If rock needs to be clear on the side and and underneath so the weight of the rock is helping to open the split. If it is held in tight by soil, its own weight by being supported all the way across underneath etc it is much less likely to split well. 5/8" feathers and wedges are generally good to split up to about 18" thick in granite. Other stones may be less depending on grain and crystal formation in the rocks. If you're trying to split anything thicker you need to use a larger size of feather and wedge. Generally up to 4 to 6 times the length of the wedge is the max you split though. This technique won't work well in rocks that are soft or have a grain (like slate or shist) and you are going against the grain.
@@brianpost1448 Thanks for responding Brian. Since writing you several things have happened. My usual problem rocks are basalt boulders that sing and crack nicely with 5/8 W&F. My problem child was a 36"x36" x 24" deep rock that was very hard, but no well defined crystals or grains, but aparently some porosity because it did not respond to the w&f, only slight spalling or chipping (no large fractures). So I bought a pail of dexpan and got a 1-1/2" drill bit. Within 3 hours of filling the holes the boulder broke into several large chunks. To remove from the hole I also purchased 1" W&F. With these I was able to break the large chunks into a more manageable size for removal. I use a Bosch 11264 rotary hammer drill which makes drilling large holes easy. Who says there is no science behind rock splitting. Hoping this is the last rock I will encounter.
Gostei muito dó seu canal é sou garimpeiro 👍
What is the appropriate length of the hole?
Generally the depth of the hole is the length of the straight part of the feathers (side shims). Drilling deeper will make it look modern and is generally unnecessary. In a few stone types or situations drilling deeper can help direct the crack, but in the vast majority of most cases is comply unnecessary. Also if you're splitting smaller or thiner stones, dont drill more more than about 2/3 of the thickness of the stone, so the hole might be shallower than the length of the feather. If needed reduce the hole diameter in those cases.
@@brianpost1448 Many thanks bro
Thanks!
Please share link where to buy feathers and wedges
thestonetrust.org/product-category/tools/feathers-and-wedges/
I also looking for fathesr and wedges
Amazon
It would be more helpful if you had added a few words about drilling the holes and setting the feathers and wedges.
Thanks.
Please see my other videos, with was just a supplement with some additional info that did not make it into the main videos.
Any chamce of some online coaching? Chrz
Из Сибири с уважением, Владимир !
Nizhnevartovsk.
Now you are talking.Bigger is better.The other little ones are just pebbles.
คือฉันไม่ได้ต่อต้านทฤษฎีเทคโนโลยีจากนอกโลกมันเป็นไปได้แต่ฉันคิดว่ามนุษย์ไม่ได้โง่ขนาดนี้ทำเรื่องอย่างนี้ง่ายๆไม่ได้
เป็นเอามากเห็นอะไรก็ไม่ได้คิดซะว่าเป็นมนุษย์ต่างดาวทำไปทั้งหมด