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Brian Post
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 18 ธ.ค. 2017
Using a Tracing (Tracer) Chisel to Split Stone
Learn how to split stones using a Tracing (Tracer) Chisel. Brian Post of The Stone Trust shows how a variety of stones can be split with a Trow and Holden Hand Tracer Chisel. Learn how to effectively split rocks and the do's and don'ts with this stone working tool.
มุมมอง: 37 498
วีดีโอ
Working wih Feather and Wedges - additional info and demo
มุมมอง 25K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Learn additional tips and tricks when working with Trow and Holden's Wedges and Shims (aka Feathers and wedges). Watch as multiple granite blocks are split down of varying sizes. This video is a supplement to our "Using feathers and wedges" video at @xUAs Just like when splitting, it starts of a little slow, but the excitement builds.
Exploring an old Granite quarry
มุมมอง 4.4K4 ปีที่แล้ว
We take a look at an old granite quarry on the property of a dry stone wall workshop participant. In the 1800's small quarries like this one were common in many areas of New England.
Dressing Granite: Trimming off drill marks and more
มุมมอง 41K4 ปีที่แล้ว
A quick look at some of the tools and techniques used to trim a block of granite after splitting with feathers and wedges. Brian Post with the Stone Trust shows how to soften drill marks and block edges as well as remove drill hole marks completely.
Drills and Bits for splitting stone
มุมมอง 111K4 ปีที่แล้ว
In order to use feathers and wedges (aka wedges and shims) for splitting stone you first need to drill holes. Brian Post at The Stone Trust reviews some different types of drills and bits available and what features to look for in a hammer drill. Different types of bits are shown as well as how to diagnose why bits wear out or fail. A side by side comparison showing the drilling speed differenc...
Using feathers and wedges
มุมมอง 117K4 ปีที่แล้ว
A detailed guide to using feather and wedges (aka wedges and shims, aka plugs and feathers) to split stones. This video shares basic and advanced knowledge and techniques for using these tools to efficiently and accurately split stones. Covers common setup, sizes, spacing, safety, drilling, placement, tracing a line, history and much more.
Using a Rebit PKM25 point to shape stone
มุมมอง 17K4 ปีที่แล้ว
See how a Rebit PKM 25 point can be used to shape stone to great effect. This was a very hard stone, tougher than most granite.
Setting up batter boards to create frames for dry stone wall building
มุมมอง 23K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Learn how to use the batter boards available from The Stone Trust to quickly and efficiently set up accurate batter frames for a dry stone wall.
Using Trow and Holden Stone Busters
มุมมอง 28K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Brian Post demonstrates some techniques for breaking stone, shaping stone, and dressing stone with the Trow and Holden 4lb Stone Buster Hammers.
Contractors Intensive Dry Stone Wall Workshop
มุมมอง 1.2K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Time Lapse video of the 5-day intensive dry stone walling workshop at The Stoneyard in Littleton MA. This workshop included the Dry Stone Walling Association of Great Britain (DSWA-GB) Level 1 certification test on the final day.
Baterframe use makes straight walls
มุมมอง 21K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Using batter frame guides makes it possible to create dry stone walls that are perfectly true. This video shows an example of this on a complex project that had many wallers working.
2019 contractors stone wall workshop
มุมมอง 6465 ปีที่แล้ว
1 day dry stone wall workshop at The Stone Trust. this 2.13 Contractors Introductory course was held March 29th in Dummerston VT. 16 participants learned the fundamentals of dry stone wall construction with instructors Jared Flynn and Seth Harris
Small Arch Workshop 6-16-18
มุมมอง 1.4K6 ปีที่แล้ว
The Stone Trust's Small Arch workshop, June 16, 2018
Awesome, hope to attend a workshop
I am legit impressed. That wall is going to be dope.
Nothing beats building with Rock. Cement has its purpose but short life span.
When you are working alone, it's sometimes handy to pre-drill the holes 6 inch or so for the rebar to get a start ..... works a bit like a spare pair of hands especially in harder ground
That dull thunk is a very welcome sound on a hot day !
Brian, every video I watch shows the perfect stone splitting scenario; never any problems. In my case I have a lot full of boulders, all below ground and they are a pain for gardiening etc. I just want them gone. Most are basalt and respond to 5/8" holes and 5/8" wedge and feathers.Recently I encountered a few rocks that seem to be hard at least to drill and the W&F in a line no matter how tight at best can cause a couple of small rock chips say part of the top layer skin to break off. It would take months to dispose of a rock this way. I assume the rock is porous/permeable and it internally deforms to absorb the stress from the W&F. Have you ever experienced this problem and if so do you have any suggestions or ideas? thanks!
Hello, yes it is not uncommon for rocks not to split well with feathers and wedges. A few thoughts: If the rock is not free to open the split will often go awry. If rock needs to be clear on the side and and underneath so the weight of the rock is helping to open the split. If it is held in tight by soil, its own weight by being supported all the way across underneath etc it is much less likely to split well. 5/8" feathers and wedges are generally good to split up to about 18" thick in granite. Other stones may be less depending on grain and crystal formation in the rocks. If you're trying to split anything thicker you need to use a larger size of feather and wedge. Generally up to 4 to 6 times the length of the wedge is the max you split though. This technique won't work well in rocks that are soft or have a grain (like slate or shist) and you are going against the grain.
@@brianpost1448 Thanks for responding Brian. Since writing you several things have happened. My usual problem rocks are basalt boulders that sing and crack nicely with 5/8 W&F. My problem child was a 36"x36" x 24" deep rock that was very hard, but no well defined crystals or grains, but aparently some porosity because it did not respond to the w&f, only slight spalling or chipping (no large fractures). So I bought a pail of dexpan and got a 1-1/2" drill bit. Within 3 hours of filling the holes the boulder broke into several large chunks. To remove from the hole I also purchased 1" W&F. With these I was able to break the large chunks into a more manageable size for removal. I use a Bosch 11264 rotary hammer drill which makes drilling large holes easy. Who says there is no science behind rock splitting. Hoping this is the last rock I will encounter.
Are those hammers carbide tipped?
It’s crazy how good that looks. Any idea how much it cost to have 8 masons working on it?
What do people who buy these use them for?
Awsome😊😊
Need you to come over and help me with some quarry stone... LOL
เป็นเอามากเห็นอะไรก็ไม่ได้คิดซะว่าเป็นมนุษย์ต่างดาวทำไปทั้งหมด
คือฉันไม่ได้ต่อต้านทฤษฎีเทคโนโลยีจากนอกโลกมันเป็นไปได้แต่ฉันคิดว่ามนุษย์ไม่ได้โง่ขนาดนี้ทำเรื่องอย่างนี้ง่ายๆไม่ได้
Beautiful wall WOW
Thanks!
Thank you Brian. This is really useful!
What is the appropriate length of the hole?
Generally the depth of the hole is the length of the straight part of the feathers (side shims). Drilling deeper will make it look modern and is generally unnecessary. In a few stone types or situations drilling deeper can help direct the crack, but in the vast majority of most cases is comply unnecessary. Also if you're splitting smaller or thiner stones, dont drill more more than about 2/3 of the thickness of the stone, so the hole might be shallower than the length of the feather. If needed reduce the hole diameter in those cases.
@@brianpost1448 Many thanks bro
Thanks! Super useful, really appreciated here in Australia :)
For the width and height of your wall use the 3, 2, 1 formula. If the top of the wall under the coping is 12inches 1, the base will be 24inches 2, and the height will be 36inches 3. For the wall he described her the proportions would have been 42inches in height 3, 28inches at the base 2, and 14 inches at the top under the coping 1.
The 3, 2, 1 formula can work well for typical free standing dry stone field wall (fence) applications as 2nd example shows. However it locks you into a 1:6 batter. It also becomes increasing incorrect the farther you get away from a wall 42" to 54" high. For example with most stone it is impractical to build the top width at 12" wide, there just is not enough width to fit reasonable sized stones in. Conversely a wall that is 6 ft tall would end up with a 2 ft wide top, which is quite excessive, unless you are building with unusually large stones. In general the top width should be dictated by the stone you have. You want as narrow a width as possible that still allows for the structure needed. Typically that is in the 14 to 18 inch range, while the base width needs to increase with wall height, the top width does not. So the 3 2 1 formula can be useful, but you have to be aware its limitations.
@brianpost1448 Thanks for the reply, Brian. Can you tell I have an aversion to mathematics. I actually used a calculator to make sure my numbers were right in my first reply. That and I've only built a Lego wall. I do like to see some dry stone walling, I was surprised to see our friends in the US using it.
Someone starting out but serious about longevity of tools, would you recommend these two hammers or a deadblow hammer with some carbide chisels?
It really depends on the type of stone you are working with and how refined you are trying to be. These hammers are better for larger stone, or harder stone. If you are working with smaller pieces of softer sandstone or limestone you may like chisels better. In general though, chisels are slower and for smaller adjustments to the stone (lots of exceptions) and hammers will be faster and in some cases will be less precise.
Thank you for the great video! After two wonderful Stone Trust trainings (2 day intro and 2 day cheek end), I’m getting ready to do my first independent practice wall in our pasture. We have these batter board frames, which are great. In calculating the dimensions in this video, how did you arrive at the 16” width at the top of the wall? Was that just a preference or was that calculated somehow using the 42” height? Im still a little foggy on how these calculations are made. Thank you again for this great video-really helpful!
Sorry not to respond sooner. The top width is something you pick, just like you pick the height. Typically the top width is going to be in the 14" to 18" range. It depends on the stone you have. If you dont have much small stone going wider is helpful. However there is tremendous savings in the volume of stone needed if you go narrower. For a 4 ft high, 20 ft long wall. if you go just 2" narrower you will save about 1 ton in stone about (1/2 cubic yard). This adds up quickly if you are doing a long length.
Wow! That’s amazing 😮
Very good explanation
Looks amazing
What are the dimensions for the wood on the level?
Keep the wind from drowning out your video
Yes it has been a problem, I have a better mic now so stay tuned for future videos.
This is a total joke
As a builder who worked as a laborer and stuck with it until I learned the trade through manifestation.... makes me sick to see landscapers who manipulate, go and pay cash and think in a couple weeks they can do jobs and take work from real masons . Then you get the dumb yuppie customers who don’t know better
Excelente ,
Cuál es tu correo institucional, un abrazo
nice explanation, thank you...
Сообщите здесь более полную информацию об инструменте PKM25: Название фирмы-производителя, Артикль изделия Название фирмы-дилера
Amazing work. 👏. I live to close to Vermonts its my favorite state. Curious, how much does something like this cost roughl estimate?
Огромное спасибо за упоминание о книге “Hammers on Stone” . Из Сибири с уважением, Владимир . Nizhnevartovsk .
Из Сибири с уважением, Владимир ! Nizhnevartovsk.
Из Сибири с уважением, Владимир ! Nizhnevartovsk .
Thank you ,👍knowlage means accomplished..
Is there any difference between the Rebit PMK25 and the Trow and Holden Carbide Bull Point? They both appear to be 3/8" and carbide tipped. I've been using the T&W for dressing granite, but always looking for something better if it exists.
I used a large vise grip for a chisel wizard. Worked well for most chisels.
That’s skill there . I do walling but that’s just another level there . Great video , thanks for sharing it .
Thanks for your comment, glad you liked it.
Gostei muito dó seu canal é sou garimpeiro 👍
Use one feather from the next size up
The tools are so expensive 😫
They are quality tools. Remember the old saying about buying quality.... Buy once, cry once.
1:53 WOW! That herringbone section set in the wall is just stunning! And the wall itself is beautiful too. So nice to see.
such a fancy wall and so well-made, what a treasure
killer work
I'd love to try these out sometime. I only have access to my T&H mashing hammer! Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
Wow skilfull.
When borders open id love to fly over and do a course
It would be more helpful if you had added a few words about drilling the holes and setting the feathers and wedges. Thanks.
Please see my other videos, with was just a supplement with some additional info that did not make it into the main videos.