Kyle! I was his private sax teacher many years ago in Chicago. Great to see him on this channel! So happy he’s making a wonderful career playing the saxophone!
Better Sax I take little credit... he was/still is a better jazz saxophonist...I’m primarily a classical guy. Btw, love watching your videos! Keep up the great work!
Excuse me!! Hi Kyle. I'm from BRZ. I'm also researching reeds for Yamaha Custom Alto Saxophone and YTS Yamaha 62 Tenor Saxophone. I've just watched your video. Congrats!!. I like to play light saxophones. Excellent sound. Excellent Overtones. I'm subscribed to your channel. My best regards from BRZ🇧🇷 Thank you so much. TTYL.
LOL ... I thought about that often but I love the sound of the sax ... I stopped using cane reeds a year ago and have been using Legere Signature reeds .. I'll probably never go back to cane ...
I've been using a synthetic reed for the last two years bc I just thought it was better. There are advantages to synthetic reeds, but recently I went back to some old gear and really loved the sound I got with cane reeds, so suddenly this information is a lot more relevant to me
The Reed geek is a great tool, but you can also get same results just by sanding the reed over a flat surface. I got myself some small grain sandpaper and a glass portrait to have a flat surface to sand on. 1. Place the reed flat on top of the sandpaper on top of the glass and try to sand it evenly making round circles. 2. Place your reed on the mouthpiece and place the palm of your hand on the back hole so it makes vacuum when you suck the air out. The reed should stick to the mouthpeace and take like a second before it pops back. when sucking the air out, hear if there are any leaks and where they come from. the leaks usually come through the center of the read on one of the sides. you should then sand a bit on the OPPOSITE side to even them out. this is by far the most important thing you can do to the reed. A good seal warranties that the saxophone plays effortlessly and it is easy to get the notes of the High register. 3. take the reed out of the mouthpiece without sliding it. there should be a moisture pattern on the flat side that should be symmetrical. if it is not, you're going to have to do some sanding on the side of the reed that touches your lower lip to make them equal. I buy reeds half a number harder just because they get a bit softer on the sanding process over time. Right now I have five reeds that work perfect and should last for well over a year! You may need to do some retouching every once in a while. Good luck! 😂 😂
UnoriginalUsername373 It is somewhat a joke. I have defective hands that don’t work normally, and it creates some problems for me. The ring finger on my right hand is particularly problematic on certain chromatic exercises. As for reeds, I use a synthetic reed. While they are not perfect, they don’t have many of the problems of cane reeds.
SayZen I do therapeutic exercises on my hands every day, and spend extra time practicing areas of difficulty. Playing the sax has been very beneficial for my hands, and I am unwilling to give in to my physical issues at this time.
Jay - Got my ReedGeek G4 two years ago and use it for my saxes and clarinets. I always flatten the back, just like you do, but not so aggressively, except for the very first time. Once the back of the reed is flat, you can just stroke it a few times and look to see if it is removing material from the whole width of the reed. If you get material from just part, then the back is not flat, but if you get it straight across, then you are fine. This means less material is removed and the reed lasts longer. Also, for corrections to the front of the reed, I do that right on the mouthpiece. No need to stop and remove the ligature. This allows me to make minute adjustments and try them immediately, so I can tweak the reed to how I like it. With the ReedGeek, I now have six or eight playable reeds at a time, whereas before I was lucky to have two. Thanks for the video, and for introducing us to Kyle.
THANK YOU!! I purchased my reed geek last month after watching one of your videos, I also purchased a new reed case. I am amazed at how much of a difference the reed geek makes on the play ability of my reeds and I have no doubt that both purchases will have paid for themselves within 2 years, if not less. I was in rehearsal this past Monday wondering if I was using my reed geek to its fullest potential and wishing there was a better tutorial online. I sit and open youtube today and BAM there you have it. Thank you for the amazing content you provide, I have been on a knitting high (yes, yarn and needles) and a saxophone slump the past few months, finding and watching your content is having a hugh impact on getting my playing mojo back. Keep up the great work! Jenn.
This is the best demonstration of the use of the reed geek you shown since your introduction of the reed geek. I have one and now I feel better at using it on the front. You hit all the explanatory points (plastic sleeves--no good; carving on the heart). The close-ups are great. Thank you!
Who know such a thing existed?! This ReedGeek is awesome! 👍 Wish it was around in my days... I don't play the sax anymore now, but I used to play it a lot in my younger days (started at 6 y/o with a soprano, had to quit when I was 24 to finish my Master degree...I'm 43 now 😑). When I transitioned to a different music school when I was around 17 y/o, I also changed to another teacher. He actually taught me to do the same thing but with just basic tools we bought from a hardware shop. Took me years to really understand it and perfect it I basically did the same as the ReedGeek. I played in some bands and orchestras (nothing serious or professionally...all just amateurs for the fun and love of music), but the looks I got a few times from fellow sax-players when I was prepping my reeds was just epic. Why are you destroying your reeds? You're wasting good money bro!...you get the point. But after I explained what I did and actually showed some of them the difference it makes they almost couldn't believe it. Great video again! Cheers from Taiwan 👍
This is my concern. You have companies that make reeds that are probably LIGHT YEARS in advancement in quality from the reeds of the early years of Jazz - where we heard some of the most amazing sounds ever created by saxophone players. Companies that have invested literally millions and millions of dollars in research to make the most repeatably consistent high quality reeds and tens or hundreds of millions in tooling and hardware to make the reeds. They grow the cane especially for this purpose and have more control over it than ever before. But human nature, being what it is, wants to try and somehow make them better. So first, we imagine that the reeds are perceptibly and significantly different from one another out of the box. Then we imagine that we can - after watching a short video or two - improve the reed by hand with a sharp tool. To heck with D'Addario and the other companies millions of research. To heck with their precision tools. To heck with their specially grown cane. With no training whatsoever, they are going to start hacking away at a reed to make it - BETTER. Here's the good news. It's all in their heads anyway and a good sax player can make a bad reed sound good. If you disagree -please tell me this: 1. Explain how the Jazz greats were able to make such great music with the HORRIBLE reeds they had back in the day - compared to the reed geek perfection? 2. Show me some BLIND TESTS on the reeds where the player and the listener didn't know which reed was which? 3. Tell me of another field where a complete beginner can carve or otherwise fine tune a well made precision part and end up with a better piece than they started with consistently and reliably? Cause when you look at it logically, this isn't logical. I don't doubt that over the years you may have learned, like a craftsman, to improve your reeds to your liking. But the idea that someone buys what is effectively a sharp wood chisel and instantly becomes a master reed-carver is beyond mind boggling to me. Snake oil and placebo sure seem like better answers to me.
I don't see many people using the Reedjuvinate but I find it pretty useful. It's basically the jar with sponge idea but includes reed holders that push the reed agains a flat surface
It's a great piece of gear and really easy to learn to use. And, you can use it to tune up synthetic reeds! Don't use synthetics very often because you're usually stuck with what you get...not so much any more. Worth picking up if you're a reed player
I bought a reed geek after your earlier videos Jay, and wow, it does all you say it does. It also makes my reeds last much much longer. In fact I can't remember the last time I replaced one of my 4 rotating tenor reeds. Reed Geeks rule!!
Excellent advices, I grabbed one reedgeek and the very first cane I worked (which was ready to be dropped) started working great. I tried a couple more times, with different results (1 good and another not so good, however, got some learning from it as well). Only bad thing is not knowing when to stop before it's too late, but I guess I'll find out eventually. Great content Jay, thanks a lor for all of it.
The hygrocase made my reeds mold. The reed geek has changed my enjoyment of playing as an advanced hobbyist. Thanks for the recommendation and instruction on using it. I got the nerve to work on the rails on a "worn out" reed and, WOW, a big difference, used it for a gig that night.
I do exactly the same thing and I always used razor blades and sand paper. In more than 30 years I still didn´t spend the money this reed geek costs. But hey, as with all the gears, whatever makes you happy! Keep up the good work, love your videos
I used to use Dutch rush, razor blades & a Vandoren sandpaper plate, but I'm lazy and it was always a bit of a faff (British slang for an overcomplicated task). My ReedGeek just makes it infinitely quicker, easier, and much more consistent. Also, a razor blade isn't rigid enough to reliably flatten the table, and the sandpaper plate is fiddly for that purpose. Now, with my Reedgeek, I rarely spend more than 1 minute and get much better results. Honestly, I was VERY sceptical when I first saw these things. And yes, it is overpriced for a bit of HSS toolsteel, but I've already saved the cost in reeds that I've made work.
@@FunkOsax Once again, as with all gears and tools, whatever makes you happy! I use one-sided razor blade, believe me they are rigid enough! I have been doing this for over 30 years, I rarely need more than one minute to prepare my reeds. I was lucky enough to receive one ReedGeek to test a while ago... still there in my toolbox, don´t really get the hype. One more aspect for me is that I work as a doubler in different places every week. It would be of course great to have one of those in every instrument, but the cost is just unbearable. One razorblade and some slice of sandpaper is all I need in every case of my saxophones and clarinets.
Andrea Fantuzzi Yes, the razor blades I used we’re one-sided with a spine. You made me doubt myself, so I’ve literally just tested some and though they’re reasonably stiff, they definitely flex and conform somewhat to a warped surface. Like you said though, if you’re happy with your method, that’s fantastic
I want to thank you for featuring reed geek it really helped me just getting the read to lay flat and also helped me figure out which mouthpiece works better for each instrument. For example ln bari I went to an old Runion I have with a high baffle and wow what a difference.
The best thing for the back of the reed is plain paper, rub gently in circles and the low abrasive level of the paper is perfect for a uniform flat surface. Always do this first because it's free and simple and fairly impossible to screw it up 😊
For the people on the fence because of the (absurdly) high price, the ReedGeek is nothing more than a piece of tool steel with some convenient shapes cut into it. You can buy blanks for a couple of bucks at machining stores as 'lathe toolbits' for about 1/20th of the price of a reedgeek, I've been using these for a while and they work great. These toolbits are made out of high speed steel and won't lose their edge any time soon, and if you know someone with a grinder you can even put in the rounded top yourself.
Have been using the geek for a few years now. It’s so much better than a straw or sandpaper. It flattens the rear and works very accurately on the front.
Al Siemens it’s funny, I remember feeling such a huge difference in the response of the reed but through the microphone I can barely even recognize the difference 🤣
@@kylegeee Yeah, a lot of the improvement is felt by the player and heard in the room up close, but doesn't get translated well with the microphone unfortunately. However, the way we play on a good reed is always very different than when we are struggling with a bad reed.
Based on your video a while back about your interesting visit to the Rigotti reed factory, I ordered their reeds.. And I have to say, that since then I have 100% hit with all their reeds - directly out of the box. All are perfect with no adjustment needed at all - which was never the case with some other well known brands. (I am not affiliated with Rigotti, just a very happy customer).
Great video Jay ! as usual... I'm a guy who didn't dare to adjust his reed more than on the back.. You just convinced me to do also the rest of the job, you never damaged a reed, so I think I'll try also on the top.. Thanks !
Thank you so much Jay. I think I’ve been a bit hesitant when using my reed geek at times but after following your very clear instructions I used it on the spine for the first time with great results - a very usable reed!
Excellent demonstration Jay. Have you seen the absolutely fantastic reed adjustment chart in a very old book called "The Art Of Saxophone Playing" by Larry Teal ? Pages 28 & 29. He pinpoints the actions needed on specific areas of the reed in order to achieve a given result. I've got 40 year old "blue box" Rico Royals that I've easily turned into 8s or better. Incidentally, my ReedGeek replaces nearly all the tools he lists.
I've used Tom Ridenour's ATG Reed Finishing System for 20 years now. I can turn almost any reed into a great player. Forget all other reed clipping and pairing techniques, including the one in this video - seriously! It works on synthetics too.
Looking forward to the day when my sax playing is good enough for me to tell the difference! Now I know why people looked at me confused when I try to explain the differences in brass mouthpieces :)
At first you can do less adjusting and more frequent testing. Once you've done a few dozen reeds, you'll be a pro and know more or less intuitively what works well given how the reed plays starting out. If you've got old reeds lying around spend some time practicing on them.
Steve was at Meadowland. The purpose is to have both sides vibrating at the same pace and you can check that out once you take the read out of the mouthpiece, after having been paying for 10 minutes or so, carefully without sliding it too much because the moisture on the flat side is going to tell you if both sides are equal or not, the pattern the moisture leaves turn should be the same on both sides, it should be symmetrical.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll have to try one. I don’t like conventional reed knives. I teach kids, so I’d be leery about them taking something like this in their case to band rehearsals as its intent might be misconstrued (a very touchy subject at schools). I’ve been instructing the kids w/ reed adjustment using 2-inch long strips of sandpaper that are about the same width as the ReedGeek. They store these in a mouthpiece tube, like the one Kyle is using for his reeds. We use Masonite clipboards, covered with a sheet of rag paper (better grip) w/ a diagram of the reed to the side. This helps them learn reed anatomy and it annotates adjustment areas of the reed that are keyed into an index of issues/modification instructions. I have them buy Larry Teals’ “The Art of Saxophone Playing”, for this index, but provide my own reed diagram. The sandpaper strips vary from 150 (grittiest), 220 (fine adjustment) and 400 (finishing). We also use a 6-inch square sheet of 400 grit on their clipboard for prepping the back of the reeds (circular motions with fingertips lightly on the shoulder and bark only). I’ve found Larry Guy’s book, “Selection, Adjustment, & Care of Single Reeds” an indispensable resource (albeit bordering on obsessive compulsive). My kids use a highly simplified version of Larry’s recommendations with encouragement to “ruin a reed”. How can you tell how far to go with adjustments unless you’ve gone too far? They learn a lot and get great results.
Wow!!!!’ 😳 that’s an amazing improvement from the first blow to the 2nd adjustment from the reed geek. That tenor saxophone sounds amazing now. I have the reed geek but been so heavily on the fibracell and legere, but, after hearing the improvements, I will spend time with my cane reeds and Reed geek tmrw.
For some time now I have used the Reed Geek regularly to adjust my reeds. After seeing this video I decided to take a closer look. In my business (wire cloth) we sometimes use a linen tester to examine product. It's a simple inexpensive tool, basically a magnifying lens with a measuring scale. I was able to clearly see the differences in rail thicknesses on some reeds. It's maybe a bit more technical than required, but it certainly confirms your comments about the rails. I have been able to reclaim a higher percentage of my reeds. Thanks!
I purchased one when you previously reviewed it. I was not doing it correctly though. I was only doing the flat bottom surface and not getting the face edges. Thanks to the video.
Here's my takeaway based on my (limited) experience. I find Vandorens are generally the best for me. The 2.5 gives me around 3 good reeds out of ten, and the rest are too soft bright and buzzy, and inconsistent timbre between octaves. Going with the 3.0, I get more even response between the octaves, and the timbre is more pure and dark. I find that about 3 reeds are perfect and the remaining 7 have issues with the upper register or lower depending on the reed, and take an exhausting embouchure to get anything out of them. So... I'm thinking I stick with the 3's, and reduce the 7ish out of the box that are too hard with the reed geek.
That Vandoren case is amazing :) I bought straight away with my first horn. Reeds stay safe. I think reed geek is not yet necessary for me, don’t think I’d know where to adjust a reed.
Such a timely video, Jay. Thanks as ever for the great content. I got my Geek a few weeks back and have yet to properly use it. It'll be great for my alto and tenor sax plus my bass clarinet reeds.
I thought that the ReedGeek was just an expensive gizmo. However, I bought one and I’m really happy that I did! It’s a great tool. Actually one of the best investments in this field (better than buying a bunch of mouthpieces).
Hi Jay I have played on Legere on my Berg Larsen mouthpiece and it worked well. Now I play on a Jody Jazz HR 8. This has bigger opening and the Legere reed will be too hard. Now I play on Dádarrio nr 2 and it works well. During my many years of playing I have struggled with reeds to get them play well. Now I think I have investigated a cheep method to make them play better. I got the idea from a video from Better sax that demonstrated the Reed Geek. In that video it was obvious how important it was to have the backside completely straight and flat . I tried to flatten with that kind of blade you use in the household. By holding the blade against the surface and look against the light I can see when the surface is flat. If it not flat I take off some material on the middle of the backside until the surface is flat After this I test it by the "popsuction" on the mouthpiece. By doing this I can use many of the reeds that I have waisted before. I have also tried to rinse them in 3 % hydrogenperoxide but have not seen any improvements. Please respond if it works for you too.
I play tenor sax (a Selmer Mk VI from 1959 - #84xxx) and use Harry Hartmann "Fiberreed" on my Selmer S-190 MPC). I like the original model (white, MS) on my tenor sax but the Hemp model (brown pattern, MS) on my Bass Clarinet.
I bought a reed Geek Diamond after watching your videos. I love it! It made 5 of my 7 unplayable reeds play great. Never realized how much the table side of the reed can be off.
Here's my reed system: I always start by playing the reed for 5 minutes the first day then increasing the playing time by 5-10 minutes a day up to 30 minutes. The reason for this is to let the fibers kind of settle in. After the break-in process, I balance the reed using Larry Teal's chart from The Art of Saxophone Playing. I tilt the mouthpiece so that only one side is vibrating and play a low register G. Then I do it on the other side. If one side is duller than the other, I balance it with reed rush using the chart. Sometimes I do a few other adjustments as well, depending on what I hear, using the chart. I have found that this method usually yields 9-10 good long-playing reeds out of a box of 10. I still think reed rush is the best tool for fine reed adjustments.
Rush is the best and least likely to damage the reed. Sorry but you should be careful because a little too much can and does ruin the reed. Fifty years of fighting the Steady decline in reed quality has taught me that reed rush is the safest and most effective tool for making a fair or good read a great one. That being said, 40 years ago LaVoz out the box reeds were in the 5 put of 10 range for good reeds and now since the family sold out to Guitar string makers they suck too. I find with anything but rush there is a greater tendency to take too much. If they play perfect when fresh they will usually get too soft too soon. Let them be played and age awhile cycling between wet and dry on a good plane of hard material and you will know in several cycles whether to adjust a bit more or to stop. Some of my best reeds played at a 5 or 6 when new and become 10s in a month. The Art of saxophone playing has the best advice and methods for acquiring and adjusting reeds. Selection of individual reeds was the only way I ever purchased reeds 40 years ago but pretty hard to do today. I can tell a good or potentially good reed by understanding what the reed should look like and what I like about rush is you can leave the reed on the piece while making minor adjustments while not disturbing the alignment or tension of the mating. All in all the tool is over priced and makes little room for error. Rush is the best. The tool in a pinch is handy as you should soak rush before using, although once flattened it can work well with a lighter touch of course.
I had heard a lot about Vandoren reeds, so I bought some. Found that they made great kindling. I now play Legere and couldn't be happier. Although they sometimes need a little fixing.
I did not address this in the video. In this case, I was just using my eyes, looking at the reed in the light and making an educated guess since I did not play the reeds myself. When I play them myself, I can feel if one side is vibrating better than another.
@@bettersax Thanks for the fast reply! I expected that it's against the light darker means thicker (and assuming similar fibre structure throughout the reed also harder) but in the video it looks even to me. Either my reeds have been pretty symmetrical so far or your lips are waaay more sensitive than mine. I guess it's the latter... ;) You keep showing new things that make me think 'I wish I could do that!'
Thanks for assuring me I won't ruin a reed. I am having a hard time turning my 4s into 8s but I think they just need more work. The nice thing is I've been able to make most Ricos, Vandorens, and Gonzalez reeds better with reed geek. I think each reed manuf/model has its perks and reed geek lets you bring that reed into a strength that suits your style. It's been fun to explore with it.
I've got the original model. The updated version probably has a few extra tools on it, but I really only use it to shave down the thickness along the back of the reed (as in 3:00).
Great video Jay! Granted, reeds are subjective as all players want different things but for the price of a box of reeds for my alto you would think you could get more than 3 out of 10 to play right. I also learned to soak imperfect reeds in hydrogen peroxide for 5 minutes. Neat tool though.
Thank you for the instructions. A couple of questions if I may please. If you begin to trim material off a reed, aren't you making a harder reed into a softer one? If so, why not just get a softer reed in the first place?
These adjustments should be for reeds that aren't cut right, or might have defects in the cane. But you can also "adjust" (almost remake) a reed to your liking if the cut or strength you purchased was not appropriate for your liking. Heck, some fanatics make their own from blanks, even go so far as from cane stock cutting their own blanks.Who has time for that? This is A LOT of adjustment, so much that I think one might be better off buying a more flexible/responsive (?) brand or cut, or lower strength more to one's liking. Could mean a lot less adjustment required. Then there's also buying better reeds. On the other hand if "customizing" to your liking is your thing, buying a 1/2 strength too hard could be just the thing for you.
I use both synthetic and cane reeds. The reason is that is my best cane reeds are superior to the consistency of the legere synthetics, however, the synthetic reeds are way easier to use on those standard rock/bar gigs that don’t require subtlety.
I'm going to have fun with this. I've been experimenting lately with reeds. I currently use a baritone sax reed on my tenor. I tried a bass clarinet reed n my tenor set up too. The baritone reed is currently my favorite.
I have a reed geek. Still trying to see how it effects my sound. My first attempt to use it I had so much fun using it the reed was reduced down to where it would no longer vibrate.
Estimado te agradezco por compartir esta información, tenia 2 cañas que eran nuevas pero no habia manera de hacerlas andar, (calificación 4) las rebajo con papel de lija y creía que me las sabias todas respecto de arreglar cañas duras, pero no. Use una tijera filosa y pude rebajar tanto la base plana de la caña como los laterales y quedo para usar (8) Abrazo grande desde Bs As.
I just bought a box of cheap 2.5 Chinese baritone sax reeds (flying goose). The first one I used was a bit uneven and too hard (it felt more like 3.5) Scraping and sanding it off a bit with a knife and sandpaper, made it the best reed I ever played. But before starting to work on any new reeds, I would play them in first. As they get a little less strong after playing in, so to avoid the reeds getting too soft very quickly, play them in a bit first.
We reed players have to understand that reed adjustment is a given. We can not expect the reed companies to give us a natural product that will perform a task that is so subjective. I use the Geek as a replacement for the old fashioned knife (want a problem getting on the airplane?) If I use a lot of time, I can get a 4 to 9.5 . I played oboe, so i learned a lot which transfers to single reeds. I also have the time to treat it as a hobby. Synthetics are great, but not for all of my mouthpieces. Great video Jay!
Very nice. I do almost the same technique on my reeds. I, however, use a few feeler gauges that I sharpen with a big file. I like the round tip of them to get good control. A reed knife when i need to take more off. Mostly for the bottom as its no good to get towards the tip.
In addition to the Reed Geek for planing the table of the reed, I find the Reed Wizard useful for planing and balancing the rails of the reed. A reed knife and reed rush are useful too. The best reed tool that I have is the Reedjuvinate storage tube. I can usually get 3-4 months out of a reed, playing 3 hours per day, using the Reedjuvinate storage tubes. It allows me to play a reed longer without having to work on new reeds.
11:34 Jay the Reed Geek does not last forever. They last from 2-3 years with daily use as per their own website. Mine is no longer sharp and totally dull after 2.5 years of daily use. I am considering getting a new one or maybe the vandoren reed glass kit. Have you tried the latter?
Hi, I was just wondering if you could do a review of the Allora Vienna series alto saxophones? I've been looking into them and I was curious about your opinion of them.
Kyle! I was his private sax teacher many years ago in Chicago. Great to see him on this channel! So happy he’s making a wonderful career playing the saxophone!
haha cool. Good job teaching Kyle.
Better Sax I take little credit... he was/still is a better jazz saxophonist...I’m primarily a classical guy. Btw, love watching your videos! Keep up the great work!
Excuse me!! Hi Kyle. I'm from BRZ. I'm also researching reeds for Yamaha Custom Alto Saxophone and YTS Yamaha 62 Tenor Saxophone. I've just watched your video. Congrats!!. I like to play light saxophones. Excellent sound. Excellent Overtones. I'm subscribed to your channel. My best regards from BRZ🇧🇷 Thank you so much. TTYL.
Your videos are such a joy to watch. You’re the one of the most charismatic TH-camrs I know .Thank you!
Thanks bro.
I fully endorse your views
Fiddling around with reeds makes me wish I was a trumpet player
Thank your lucky stars you're not an oboe player!!!
One word..Legere
Look on bright side of things...you could have been an oboe player! LOL
Heard that before...lol
LOL ... I thought about that often but I love the sound of the sax ... I stopped using cane reeds a year ago and have been using Legere Signature reeds .. I'll probably never go back to cane ...
I've been using a synthetic reed for the last two years bc I just thought it was better. There are advantages to synthetic reeds, but recently I went back to some old gear and really loved the sound I got with cane reeds, so suddenly this information is a lot more relevant to me
The Reed geek is a great tool, but you can also get same results just by sanding the reed over a flat surface. I got myself some small grain sandpaper and a glass portrait to have a flat surface to sand on.
1. Place the reed flat on top of the sandpaper on top of the glass and try to sand it evenly making round circles.
2. Place your reed on the mouthpiece and place the palm of your hand on the back hole so it makes vacuum when you suck the air out. The reed should stick to the mouthpeace and take like a second before it pops back. when sucking the air out, hear if there are any leaks and where they come from. the leaks usually come through the center of the read on one of the sides. you should then sand a bit on the OPPOSITE side to even them out. this is by far the most important thing you can do to the reed. A good seal warranties that the saxophone plays effortlessly and it is easy to get the notes of the High register.
3. take the reed out of the mouthpiece without sliding it. there should be a moisture pattern on the flat side that should be symmetrical. if it is not, you're going to have to do some sanding on the side of the reed that touches your lower lip to make them equal.
I buy reeds half a number harder just because they get a bit softer on the sanding process over time.
Right now I have five reeds that work perfect and should last for well over a year!
You may need to do some retouching every once in a while.
Good luck! 😂 😂
I purchased a reed geek after seeing your session with their creator and it's a really good tool!
I need a Finger Geek. Reeds aren’t my problem.
You're lucky if reeds aren't your problem but what is a finger Geek ? Never heard of it ....
UnoriginalUsername373 It is somewhat a joke. I have defective hands that don’t work normally, and it creates some problems for me. The ring finger on my right hand is particularly problematic on certain chromatic exercises. As for reeds, I use a synthetic reed. While they are not perfect, they don’t have many of the problems of cane reeds.
SayZen I do therapeutic exercises on my hands every day, and spend extra time practicing areas of difficulty. Playing the sax has been very beneficial for my hands, and I am unwilling to give in to my physical issues at this time.
he has AMAZING tone. wow!
This is just what we needed. Hoping that our son (sax player) will be able to use this to improve his reeds and save us money.
Doug LaVerdiere not only money, also great deal of frustration !! 🥳
Jay - Got my ReedGeek G4 two years ago and use it for my saxes and clarinets. I always flatten the back, just like you do, but not so aggressively, except for the very first time. Once the back of the reed is flat, you can just stroke it a few times and look to see if it is removing material from the whole width of the reed. If you get material from just part, then the back is not flat, but if you get it straight across, then you are fine. This means less material is removed and the reed lasts longer. Also, for corrections to the front of the reed, I do that right on the mouthpiece. No need to stop and remove the ligature. This allows me to make minute adjustments and try them immediately, so I can tweak the reed to how I like it. With the ReedGeek, I now have six or eight playable reeds at a time, whereas before I was lucky to have two. Thanks for the video, and for introducing us to Kyle.
THANK YOU!! I purchased my reed geek last month after watching one of your videos, I also purchased a new reed case. I am amazed at how much of a difference the reed geek makes on the play ability of my reeds and I have no doubt that both purchases will have paid for themselves within 2 years, if not less. I was in rehearsal this past Monday wondering if I was using my reed geek to its fullest potential and wishing there was a better tutorial online. I sit and open youtube today and BAM there you have it. Thank you for the amazing content you provide, I have been on a knitting high (yes, yarn and needles) and a saxophone slump the past few months, finding and watching your content is having a hugh impact on getting my playing mojo back. Keep up the great work! Jenn.
Nothing against knitting, but I hope your saxophone gets more attention going forward. ; )
Played Sax and Clarinet since 12, that was 60 years ago and first I have ever heard of this little tool. Still play and think I want to get one.
This is the best demonstration of the use of the reed geek you shown since your introduction of the reed geek. I have one and now I feel better at using it on the front. You hit all the explanatory points (plastic sleeves--no good; carving on the heart). The close-ups are great. Thank you!
Who know such a thing existed?! This ReedGeek is awesome! 👍 Wish it was around in my days...
I don't play the sax anymore now, but I used to play it a lot in my younger days (started at 6 y/o with a soprano, had to quit when I was 24 to finish my Master degree...I'm 43 now 😑).
When I transitioned to a different music school when I was around 17 y/o, I also changed to another teacher.
He actually taught me to do the same thing but with just basic tools we bought from a hardware shop.
Took me years to really understand it and perfect it I basically did the same as the ReedGeek.
I played in some bands and orchestras (nothing serious or professionally...all just amateurs for the fun and love of music), but the looks I got a few times from fellow sax-players when I was prepping my reeds was just epic.
Why are you destroying your reeds? You're wasting good money bro!...you get the point.
But after I explained what I did and actually showed some of them the difference it makes they almost couldn't believe it.
Great video again! Cheers from Taiwan 👍
This is my concern. You have companies that make reeds that are probably LIGHT YEARS in advancement in quality from the reeds of the early years of Jazz - where we heard some of the most amazing sounds ever created by saxophone players. Companies that have invested literally millions and millions of dollars in research to make the most repeatably consistent high quality reeds and tens or hundreds of millions in tooling and hardware to make the reeds. They grow the cane especially for this purpose and have more control over it than ever before.
But human nature, being what it is, wants to try and somehow make them better. So first, we imagine that the reeds are perceptibly and significantly different from one another out of the box. Then we imagine that we can - after watching a short video or two - improve the reed by hand with a sharp tool.
To heck with D'Addario and the other companies millions of research. To heck with their precision tools. To heck with their specially grown cane. With no training whatsoever, they are going to start hacking away at a reed to make it - BETTER.
Here's the good news. It's all in their heads anyway and a good sax player can make a bad reed sound good.
If you disagree -please tell me this:
1. Explain how the Jazz greats were able to make such great music with the HORRIBLE reeds they had back in the day - compared to the reed geek perfection?
2. Show me some BLIND TESTS on the reeds where the player and the listener didn't know which reed was which?
3. Tell me of another field where a complete beginner can carve or otherwise fine tune a well made precision part and end up with a better piece than they started with consistently and reliably?
Cause when you look at it logically, this isn't logical.
I don't doubt that over the years you may have learned, like a craftsman, to improve your reeds to your liking. But the idea that someone buys what is effectively a sharp wood chisel and instantly becomes a master reed-carver is beyond mind boggling to me.
Snake oil and placebo sure seem like better answers to me.
I don't see many people using the Reedjuvinate but I find it pretty useful. It's basically the jar with sponge idea but includes reed holders that push the reed agains a flat surface
I bought one a couple of years ago and use it a little...now I'll use it more since you've shown all the ways to use it!
It's a great piece of gear and really easy to learn to use. And, you can use it to tune up synthetic reeds! Don't use synthetics very often because you're usually stuck with what you get...not so much any more.
Worth picking up if you're a reed player
I open the box, spread the reeds on the table and start to pray….:-)
Lol
I bought a reed geek after your earlier videos Jay, and wow, it does all you say it does. It also makes my reeds last much much longer. In fact I can't remember the last time I replaced one of my 4 rotating tenor reeds. Reed Geeks rule!!
Excellent advices, I grabbed one reedgeek and the very first cane I worked (which was ready to be dropped) started working great. I tried a couple more times, with different results (1 good and another not so good, however, got some learning from it as well). Only bad thing is not knowing when to stop before it's too late, but I guess I'll find out eventually. Great content Jay, thanks a lor for all of it.
I’ve been using Reed Geek for about 3 years, and I love it. I bought it with my own money, BTW.
The hygrocase made my reeds mold.
The reed geek has changed my enjoyment of playing as an advanced hobbyist. Thanks for the recommendation and instruction on using it. I got the nerve to work on the rails on a "worn out" reed and, WOW, a big difference, used it for a gig that night.
I do exactly the same thing and I always used razor blades and sand paper. In more than 30 years I still didn´t spend the money this reed geek costs. But hey, as with all the gears, whatever makes you happy! Keep up the good work, love your videos
I used to use Dutch rush, razor blades & a Vandoren sandpaper plate, but I'm lazy and it was always a bit of a faff (British slang for an overcomplicated task). My ReedGeek just makes it infinitely quicker, easier, and much more consistent. Also, a razor blade isn't rigid enough to reliably flatten the table, and the sandpaper plate is fiddly for that purpose. Now, with my Reedgeek, I rarely spend more than 1 minute and get much better results.
Honestly, I was VERY sceptical when I first saw these things. And yes, it is overpriced for a bit of HSS toolsteel, but I've already saved the cost in reeds that I've made work.
@@FunkOsax Once again, as with all gears and tools, whatever makes you happy! I use one-sided razor blade, believe me they are rigid enough! I have been doing this for over 30 years, I rarely need more than one minute to prepare my reeds. I was lucky enough to receive one ReedGeek to test a while ago... still there in my toolbox, don´t really get the hype. One more aspect for me is that I work as a doubler in different places every week. It would be of course great to have one of those in every instrument, but the cost is just unbearable. One razorblade and some slice of sandpaper is all I need in every case of my saxophones and clarinets.
Andrea Fantuzzi Yes, the razor blades I used we’re one-sided with a spine. You made me doubt myself, so I’ve literally just tested some and though they’re reasonably stiff, they definitely flex and conform somewhat to a warped surface.
Like you said though, if you’re happy with your method, that’s fantastic
I want to thank you for featuring reed geek it really helped me just getting the read to lay flat and also helped me figure out which mouthpiece works better for each instrument. For example ln bari I went to an old Runion I have with a high baffle and wow what a difference.
The best thing for the back of the reed is plain paper, rub gently in circles and the low abrasive level of the paper is perfect for a uniform flat surface. Always do this first because it's free and simple and fairly impossible to screw it up 😊
Learnt so much from this video as a beginner sax player! Thank you so much Jay! Been loving your videos, they are helping tremendously!
For the people on the fence because of the (absurdly) high price, the ReedGeek is nothing more than a piece of tool steel with some convenient shapes cut into it. You can buy blanks for a couple of bucks at machining stores as 'lathe toolbits' for about 1/20th of the price of a reedgeek, I've been using these for a while and they work great. These toolbits are made out of high speed steel and won't lose their edge any time soon, and if you know someone with a grinder you can even put in the rounded top yourself.
I noticed that too, i wasn’t sure if it would work so thanks for confirming
@@jasonmurawski5877 or a razor blade or sandpaper
This is exactly what I did, got THREE lathe bits for $15 off eBay 👍
Got 8” stock and cut it half on the bias. Gave the other half to another big band sax player!
Have been using the geek for a few years now. It’s so much better than a straw or sandpaper. It flattens the rear and works very accurately on the front.
I could hear the improvement on the first reed right away. The buzz was gone and the horn sounded smoother.
Al Siemens it’s funny, I remember feeling such a huge difference in the response of the reed but through the microphone I can barely even recognize the difference 🤣
@@kylegeee Yeah, a lot of the improvement is felt by the player and heard in the room up close, but doesn't get translated well with the microphone unfortunately. However, the way we play on a good reed is always very different than when we are struggling with a bad reed.
Based on your video a while back about your interesting visit to the Rigotti reed factory, I ordered their reeds.. And I have to say, that since then I have 100% hit with all their reeds - directly out of the box. All are perfect with no adjustment needed at all - which was never the case with some other well known brands. (I am not affiliated with Rigotti, just a very happy customer).
Yeah Rigotti are the best.
Great video Jay ! as usual... I'm a guy who didn't dare to adjust his reed more than on the back.. You just convinced me to do also the rest of the job, you never damaged a reed, so I think I'll try also on the top.. Thanks !
practice on some old reeds for a while if you're afraid you'll ruin your good ones.
Thank you so much Jay. I think I’ve been a bit hesitant when using my reed geek at times but after following your very clear instructions I used it on the spine for the first time with great results - a very usable reed!
good to hear.
Would love to see a video on jazz/bebop vocabulary. Great video btw
Great video! My sax teacher had me get one several years ago. Love it!
Excellent demonstration Jay. Have you seen the absolutely fantastic reed adjustment chart in a very old book called "The Art Of Saxophone Playing" by Larry Teal ? Pages 28 & 29. He pinpoints the actions needed on specific areas of the reed in order to achieve a given result. I've got 40 year old "blue box" Rico Royals that I've easily turned into 8s or better.
Incidentally, my ReedGeek replaces nearly all the tools he lists.
Yes, I have that book. That's why the ReedGeek is so great. one tool that does everything.
I've used Tom Ridenour's ATG Reed Finishing System for 20 years now. I can turn almost any reed into a great player. Forget all other reed clipping and pairing techniques, including the one in this video - seriously! It works on synthetics too.
Looking forward to the day when my sax playing is good enough for me to tell the difference! Now I know why people looked at me confused when I try to explain the differences in brass mouthpieces :)
Terrific, Jay. One question: How do I know when the rails have been sufficiently scraped?
At first you can do less adjusting and more frequent testing. Once you've done a few dozen reeds, you'll be a pro and know more or less intuitively what works well given how the reed plays starting out. If you've got old reeds lying around spend some time practicing on them.
Steve was at Meadowland.
The purpose is to have both sides vibrating at the same pace and you can check that out once you take the read out of the mouthpiece, after having been paying for 10 minutes or so, carefully without sliding it too much because the moisture on the flat side is going to tell you if both sides are equal or not, the pattern the moisture leaves turn should be the same on both sides, it should be symmetrical.
Been playing sax for 42 years and never knew about this. Thanks for the education!
There is a great section in Larry Teal's book "The Art Of Playing Saxophone" about understanding the reed. You should have read this 40 years ago?!
Thanks for the tip. I’ll have to try one. I don’t like conventional reed knives.
I teach kids, so I’d be leery about them taking something like this in their case to band rehearsals as its intent might be misconstrued (a very touchy subject at schools). I’ve been instructing the kids w/ reed adjustment using 2-inch long strips of sandpaper that are about the same width as the ReedGeek. They store these in a mouthpiece tube, like the one Kyle is using for his reeds. We use Masonite clipboards, covered with a sheet of rag paper (better grip) w/ a diagram of the reed to the side. This helps them learn reed anatomy and it annotates adjustment areas of the reed that are keyed into an index of issues/modification instructions. I have them buy Larry Teals’ “The Art of Saxophone Playing”, for this index, but provide my own reed diagram. The sandpaper strips vary from 150 (grittiest), 220 (fine adjustment) and 400 (finishing). We also use a 6-inch square sheet of 400 grit on their clipboard for prepping the back of the reeds (circular motions with fingertips lightly on the shoulder and bark only).
I’ve found Larry Guy’s book, “Selection, Adjustment, & Care of Single Reeds” an indispensable resource (albeit bordering on obsessive compulsive). My kids use a highly simplified version of Larry’s recommendations with encouragement to “ruin a reed”. How can you tell how far to go with adjustments unless you’ve gone too far? They learn a lot and get great results.
Thanks Jay.... great advice....
I often put an indirect light under glass. That allows you to see how uneven or as you say the congestion and work it out.
I just purchased a reed geeklet. Thanks for the tutorial.
Great video. I have the reed geek and love it. Many reeds have been saved with this tool
Wow!!!!’ 😳 that’s an amazing improvement from the first blow to the 2nd adjustment from the reed geek. That tenor saxophone sounds amazing now. I have the reed geek but been so heavily on the fibracell and legere, but, after hearing the improvements, I will spend time with my cane reeds and Reed geek tmrw.
For some time now I have used the Reed Geek regularly to adjust my reeds. After seeing this video I decided to take a closer look. In my business (wire cloth) we sometimes use a linen tester to examine product. It's a simple inexpensive tool, basically a magnifying lens with a measuring scale. I was able to clearly see the differences in rail thicknesses on some reeds. It's maybe a bit more technical than required, but it certainly confirms your comments about the rails. I have been able to reclaim a higher percentage of my reeds. Thanks!
I purchased one when you previously reviewed it. I was not doing it correctly though. I was only doing the flat bottom surface and not getting the face edges.
Thanks to the video.
don't be afraid, you won't mess up your reeds, go for it.
in the old days we used "dutch rush" or just files purchased at a hardware store. This video is helpful and informative- thanks!
Here's my takeaway based on my (limited) experience. I find Vandorens are generally the best for me. The 2.5 gives me around 3 good reeds out of ten, and the rest are too soft bright and buzzy, and inconsistent timbre between octaves. Going with the 3.0, I get more even response between the octaves, and the timbre is more pure and dark. I find that about 3 reeds are perfect and the remaining 7 have issues with the upper register or lower depending on the reed, and take an exhausting embouchure to get anything out of them. So... I'm thinking I stick with the 3's, and reduce the 7ish out of the box that are too hard with the reed geek.
I never knew that Ray Romano played the sax so well.
Thank you again Jay!
You really know how to write good titles for TH-cam videos. I was like 'Hello!'
It's all about the titles...
That Vandoren case is amazing :) I bought straight away with my first horn. Reeds stay safe.
I think reed geek is not yet necessary for me, don’t think I’d know where to adjust a reed.
This is definitely for more advanced players so no rush to get one.
Such a timely video, Jay. Thanks as ever for the great content. I got my Geek a few weeks back and have yet to properly use it. It'll be great for my alto and tenor sax plus my bass clarinet reeds.
took me a while before I had the courage to dig into my reeds.
wow Amazing! The Reed Geek really dose work i might get one! good work Kyle and Jay!
Got one for Christmas and I love it! Best sax accessory I have
yes
I thought that the ReedGeek was just an expensive gizmo. However, I bought one and I’m really happy that I did! It’s a great tool. Actually one of the best investments in this field (better than buying a bunch of mouthpieces).
that's what I thought too, but everyone who has one will tell you it's worth it.
I use ATG system and Vandoren glas-thing plus a obi-knive on my clarinet reeds V12 2 1/2 and 3
could you do a Jean Paul TS-800 or AS-800 review. it is their professional tenor and alto.
I second that petition!
Joshua Carchi yeah, there’s basically nothing on youtube about them and not much info on the website
They are B/O on Jean Paul's website!
Jean Paul instruments are just overpriced Chinese stencils. Same exact thing as Mendini and Allora etc.
@@cetologist I thought they were made in the US!
Terrific video, Jay. I have a Reed Geek but now I know how to use it better!
Hi Jay
I have played on Legere on my Berg Larsen mouthpiece and it worked well. Now I play on a Jody Jazz HR 8. This has bigger opening and the Legere reed will be too hard. Now I play on Dádarrio nr 2
and it works well. During my many years of playing I have struggled with reeds to get them play well. Now I think I have investigated a cheep method to make them play better.
I got the idea from a video from Better sax that demonstrated the Reed Geek. In that video it was obvious how important it was to have the backside completely straight and flat .
I tried to flatten with that kind of blade you use in the household. By holding the blade against the surface and look against the light I can see when the surface is flat. If it not flat I take off some material on the middle of the backside until the surface is flat After this I test it by the "popsuction" on the mouthpiece. By doing this I can use many of the reeds that I have waisted before. I have also tried to rinse them in 3 % hydrogenperoxide but have not seen any improvements. Please respond if it works for you too.
Oh wow! I wouldve never thought it made THAT much of a difference! Thanks for the vid
I play tenor sax (a Selmer Mk VI from 1959 - #84xxx) and use Harry Hartmann "Fiberreed" on my Selmer S-190 MPC). I like the original model (white, MS) on my tenor sax but the Hemp model (brown pattern, MS) on my Bass Clarinet.
nice setup! i play on a Chad Lb syos Signature mouthpiece with a vandoren optimum ligautre!
I bought a reed Geek Diamond after watching your videos. I love it! It made 5 of my 7 unplayable reeds play great. Never realized how much the table side of the reed can be off.
glad to hear it.
Here's my reed system: I always start by playing the reed for 5 minutes the first day then increasing the playing time by 5-10 minutes a day up to 30 minutes. The reason for this is to let the fibers kind of settle in. After the break-in process, I balance the reed using Larry Teal's chart from The Art of Saxophone Playing. I tilt the mouthpiece so that only one side is vibrating and play a low register G. Then I do it on the other side. If one side is duller than the other, I balance it with reed rush using the chart. Sometimes I do a few other adjustments as well, depending on what I hear, using the chart. I have found that this method usually yields 9-10 good long-playing reeds out of a box of 10. I still think reed rush is the best tool for fine reed adjustments.
"tilt the mouthpiece" ???
Rush is the best and least likely to damage the reed. Sorry but you should be careful because a little too much can and does ruin the reed. Fifty years of fighting the Steady decline in reed quality has taught me that reed rush is the safest and most effective tool for making a fair or good read a great one. That being said, 40 years ago LaVoz out the box reeds were in the 5 put of 10 range for good reeds and now since the family sold out to Guitar string makers they suck too. I find with anything but rush there is a greater tendency to take too much. If they play perfect when fresh they will usually get too soft too soon. Let them be played and age awhile cycling between wet and dry on a good plane of hard material and you will know in several cycles whether to adjust a bit more or to stop. Some of my best reeds played at a 5 or 6 when new and become 10s in a month. The Art of saxophone playing has the best advice and methods for acquiring and adjusting reeds. Selection of individual reeds was the only way I ever purchased reeds 40 years ago but pretty hard to do today. I can tell a good or potentially good reed by understanding what the reed should look like and what I like about rush is you can leave the reed on the piece while making minor adjustments while not disturbing the alignment or tension of the mating. All in all the tool is over priced and makes little room for error. Rush is the best. The tool in a pinch is handy as you should soak rush before using, although once flattened it can work well with a lighter touch of course.
I had heard a lot about Vandoren reeds, so I bought some. Found that they made great kindling. I now play Legere and couldn't be happier. Although they sometimes need a little fixing.
I improvised with a sharp flathead screwdriever and it works great!
Happy new year 2022 dear Jay!!! Congrats for this excellent video, as usual!!
Thanks for the video!
There is one thing I have not quite understood though (at 6:12): How do you see which side needs more work?
I did not address this in the video. In this case, I was just using my eyes, looking at the reed in the light and making an educated guess since I did not play the reeds myself. When I play them myself, I can feel if one side is vibrating better than another.
@@bettersax Thanks for the fast reply! I expected that it's against the light darker means thicker (and assuming similar fibre structure throughout the reed also harder) but in the video it looks even to me.
Either my reeds have been pretty symmetrical so far or your lips are waaay more sensitive than mine. I guess it's the latter... ;)
You keep showing new things that make me think 'I wish I could do that!'
Thanks for assuring me I won't ruin a reed. I am having a hard time turning my 4s into 8s but I think they just need more work.
The nice thing is I've been able to make most Ricos, Vandorens, and Gonzalez reeds better with reed geek. I think each reed manuf/model has its perks and reed geek lets you bring that reed into a strength that suits your style. It's been fun to explore with it.
Hi Jay, Really convincing and it shows the method in a simple way, thank you so much for the good Tipps!!
I can confirm this. I’ve got my reeds much better with this tool. Very handy Grtz
Hey Jay, I'd love to know what it was you were hearing when you were deciding where to make adjustments and also where you adjusted.
thanks Jay for teaching me every thing my teachers never taught me .. Bobby G...
I've got the original model. The updated version probably has a few extra tools on it, but I really only use it to shave down the thickness along the back of the reed (as in 3:00).
The original is fine, I still have one. the Black Diamond is nice because it's longer and the curved part is cool too.
Punaise j'adore tellement tes vidéos, la dynamique, la thématique, continue comme ça !
Merci!
Great video Jay! Granted, reeds are subjective as all players want different things but for the price of a box of reeds for my alto you would think you could get more than 3 out of 10 to play right. I also learned to soak imperfect reeds in hydrogen peroxide for 5 minutes. Neat tool though.
Thank you for the instructions. A couple of questions if I may please. If you begin to trim material off a reed, aren't you making a harder reed into a softer one? If so, why not just get a softer reed in the first place?
These adjustments should be for reeds that aren't cut right, or might have defects in the cane. But you can also "adjust" (almost remake) a reed to your liking if the cut or strength you purchased was not appropriate for your liking. Heck, some fanatics make their own from blanks, even go so far as from cane stock cutting their own blanks.Who has time for that? This is A LOT of adjustment, so much that I think one might be better off buying a more flexible/responsive (?) brand or cut, or lower strength more to one's liking. Could mean a lot less adjustment required. Then there's also buying better reeds. On the other hand if "customizing" to your liking is your thing, buying a 1/2 strength too hard could be just the thing for you.
Very nice !
Im really digging that steve jobs look
been using for three years ,good results
When we get video comparing good bari mouthpeices, been waiting for that
Coming soon.
@@bettersax Yes please, cold you throw some syos mouthpieces in there too?
@@albusdumdledore5919 Yess! check out my vid on my channel about the syos mouthpieces i have done a few videos on the syos mouthpieces
This is exceptional and intriguing.
Curious to see if anyone knows which bag Kyle is using in this video!
Well just thought I’d give you a heads up re synthetic reeds, I adjust my fiberreeds to suit my taste using the reed geek and it works great !
I use both synthetic and cane reeds. The reason is that is my best cane reeds are superior to the consistency of the legere synthetics, however, the synthetic reeds are way easier to use on those standard rock/bar gigs that don’t require subtlety.
I use Legere in certain situations as well.
I'm going to have fun with this. I've been experimenting lately with reeds. I currently use a baritone sax reed on my tenor. I tried a bass clarinet reed n my tenor set up too. The baritone reed is currently my favorite.
Great stuf ,i have one and i use it everyday
I have a reed geek. Still trying to see how it effects my sound. My first attempt to use it I had so much fun using it the reed was reduced down to where it would no longer vibrate.
Wow! Really thank you so much for this video.. I have a reedgeek and now I know how to use it better.
good.
Estimado te agradezco por compartir esta información, tenia 2 cañas que eran nuevas pero no habia manera de hacerlas andar, (calificación 4) las rebajo con papel de lija y creía que me las sabias todas respecto de arreglar cañas duras, pero no. Use una tijera filosa y pude rebajar tanto la base plana de la caña como los laterales y quedo para usar (8) Abrazo grande desde Bs As.
I just bought a box of cheap 2.5 Chinese baritone sax reeds (flying goose).
The first one I used was a bit uneven and too hard (it felt more like 3.5)
Scraping and sanding it off a bit with a knife and sandpaper, made it the best reed I ever played.
But before starting to work on any new reeds, I would play them in first.
As they get a little less strong after playing in, so to avoid the reeds getting too soft very quickly, play them in a bit first.
We reed players have to understand that reed adjustment is a given. We can not expect the reed companies to give us a natural product that will perform a task that is so subjective. I use the Geek
as a replacement for the old fashioned knife (want a problem getting on the airplane?) If I use a lot of time, I can get a 4 to 9.5 . I played oboe, so i learned a lot which transfers to single reeds. I also have the
time to treat it as a hobby. Synthetics are great, but not for all of my mouthpieces. Great video Jay!
You'll have to show me your tricks next time Bob.
I don't need this but I love ALL your videos. You're the man!
agree love your videos Jay!
I use LeGere synthetic reeds more than half the time. I DEFINITELY adjust them with sandpaper in a circular rubbing motion. This can help a ton!
Very nice. I do almost the same technique on my reeds. I, however, use a few feeler gauges that I sharpen with a big file. I like the round tip of them to get good control. A reed knife when i need to take more off. Mostly for the bottom as its no good to get towards the tip.
In addition to the Reed Geek for planing the table of the reed, I find the Reed Wizard useful for planing and balancing the rails of the reed. A reed knife and reed rush are useful too.
The best reed tool that I have is the Reedjuvinate storage tube. I can usually get 3-4 months out of a reed, playing 3 hours per day, using the Reedjuvinate storage tubes. It allows me to play a reed longer without having to work on new reeds.
11:34 Jay the Reed Geek does not last forever. They last from 2-3 years with daily use as per their own website. Mine is no longer sharp and totally dull after 2.5 years of daily use. I am considering getting a new one or maybe the vandoren reed glass kit. Have you tried the latter?
Hi, I was just wondering if you could do a review of the Allora Vienna series alto saxophones? I've been looking into them and I was curious about your opinion of them.
Love my Reed Geek, has saved me many reeds
Wow, what a difference the second adjustment made of the stock reed.