I'd experiment to test your hypothesis about the random z seam improving strength. Then I'd do in depth annealing experiments to prepare for a long term comparison study to gauge the longevity of each type of post printing treatment.
@@makeitlabchannel I also want to commend you for doing a settings deep dive right after your breakout video. This is what people want right now. There's been a total lack of scientific and technical rigor in the airless basketball videos from big youtubers recently. They all just wanted to be first. You found a niche that you can do better in.
I know that the PEBA seems like the way to go. However, I just found this flexible PETG. it looks barely flexible, but it is said to have more strength as well.🤷♂️ It is on a website called Billy 3d (b3d). Look for this: Spectrum PET-G FX120 Flexible PET-G - 1.75mm - Natural - 1kg Spool. The image shows him trying to bend it, and it barely seems to do a thing. Meaning it won’t be a flat ball, but it will give a little bit.
Oooo, Also, putting a printer in a pressure chamber and increasing the pressure in the air pockets in the print would strengthen it and make it bounce better. It doesn't have to be much, just enough not to push out of the print once removed or when bounced. maybe 1.5 to 2 atmospheres.
With most flexible filaments ive found lowering volumeteric speed can greatly increase quality and layer adhesion, giving it more durability and probably slightly better bounce but I dont have the tools to accurately test rebound and post-print shore hardness.
@makeitlabchannel huge props for you actually putting in the effort rather than just doing pla and complaining when it breaks. Made one out of SEBS for school and everyone loves it, about 60% bounce but it is starting to warp after 2 months of abuse from kids and it's bounce is much less consistent. Will try this filament out once I get the money and I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out
@@pancakehm5563 much appreciated 😁 SEBS is on my list to try as well, glad to hear you have had decent results with it so far and I would love to hear how it turns out!
@makeitlabchannel if your trying sebs I'd recommend the higher shore hardness the better 90a was a tad too soft. Definitely enjoy the uv resistance and waterproof aspect though for outdoor use, hasn't yellowed a bit compared to most tpu filaments and it's easy to clean which is good considering how often a trash can is used as a hoop
I was thinking about buying a 3d printer and would it be possible to complete this print with anyone available on the market or does it have to be a specific one?
That is a good question. I think that as long as the printer has the proper base necessities it should be able to print the ball. Some of the base needs would be a nozzle that can get about 250+ degrees C, a bed that can get to 90+ degrees C, and I would highly recommend direct drive because of the flexible filament. If you use something other than a Bambu Lab printer, I would also suggest running retraction, temperature, e-steps, and speed tests before printing as well.
@@actual_bs hey there, yeah I can see your point. If you use our new basketball model, I think the only way would be to decrease the size of the ball until it uses less than 500. When I printed the PartyLime double-lattice model, it only came out to about 480g or so of filament so that could be an option: th-cam.com/video/P5sE0fNV0Ms/w-d-xo.html
Most of this should work on Cura too - the only thing I am not sure about is painting custom supports. It looks like there is a plugin that would work similarly: all3dp.com/2/cura-custom-supports/
I will try and give you the main settings below, please let me know if you need more info: No cooling for the first 3 layers Min fan speed threshold 40%, layer time 3 s Max fan speed threshold 90%, layer time 12 s Always keep fan on - Yes Slow printing down for better layer cooling - Yes Min print speed - 20 mm/s Force cooling for overhangs and bridges - Yes Cooling overhang threshold - 10% Fan speed for overhangs - 90%
Since I want to include the single lattice file on that video and I am just starting the print, it won't be until at least next week, but yep can't wait to shank a few shots from half court 😂
I’m having a lot of issues with stringing, where a small thread of filament is left behind when the head moves across a gap. Have any tips to prevent this?
Hmm, my first question is what rpi ter are you using? When my Ender 3 was not broken I had to run a temperature and retraction test for just about any new filament. I would suggest starting with a temperature and retraction test to see the best results, although I know it is not a quick fix
Hello can you please give the download link to the full project aka the .3mf file. You could do this by entering the project and pressing file then save as
I had to order 2 rolls of the filament, and when the first was running out I ran the beginning of the 2nd spool with the end of the first spool until the printer started printing with the 2nd spool (so I didn't have to pause the print)
@@TrueFax-ti6fj yeah it is, that is even the cheapest that I found! I hope someone comes out with something cheaper. A couple people were scaling the ball down a little/using less infill and supports being the ball down to 500g
@@TrueFax-ti6fj Yes I was hesitant to buy it, but the description of the filament sounded like it would be ideal for the basketball and a lot of people were recommending it so I gave it a shot even though I have never printed with it before lol
Hi there, when you are support painting, there is something called "section view." you can adjust the section view to customize what you see on the file so that you can paint what you want. Let me know if you have any questions, or if you would rather me send you the 3mf.
Like mpawood said, I can't because it is not my file, plus I would like to test some things out to get the durability/weight just right. I am working on designing my own file so maybe someday 😁
You should try a single lattice file an and see what it does with peba. The double lattice didn’t go as fantastic for the Pla+ so maybe a single lattice will way improve the PEBA Ball.
@@makeitlabchannel Great video! I ordered some PEBA to try and print my own. You mentioned trying to improve the weight. What if I increased the outer wall thickness or increased infill to try and take it from ~460g to ~600g(which is much closer to what the Wilson ball weighs), perhaps that might also increase durability as well? Or do you think a thicker shell or increased infill might mess with the bounce?
Oh dang, this is the only free file I know of with the double-lattice. There might be some options on Cults3D that you could pay for with double lattice and smaller file size, but if a single lattice is ok for you (won't bounce quite as well I don't think) then I can recommend this file: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6045662
How can we improve this?
I'd experiment to test your hypothesis about the random z seam improving strength. Then I'd do in depth annealing experiments to prepare for a long term comparison study to gauge the longevity of each type of post printing treatment.
@@GeneralGorrilla I like those ideas - thanks!
@@makeitlabchannel I also want to commend you for doing a settings deep dive right after your breakout video. This is what people want right now. There's been a total lack of scientific and technical rigor in the airless basketball videos from big youtubers recently. They all just wanted to be first. You found a niche that you can do better in.
@@GeneralGorrilla I appreciate the kind words!
I know that the PEBA seems like the way to go. However, I just found this flexible PETG. it looks barely flexible, but it is said to have more strength as well.🤷♂️
It is on a website called Billy 3d (b3d). Look for this: Spectrum PET-G FX120 Flexible PET-G - 1.75mm - Natural - 1kg Spool. The image shows him trying to bend it, and it barely seems to do a thing. Meaning it won’t be a flat ball, but it will give a little bit.
5 stars. Finally someone actually did this right. Well done. You've definitely earned a sub.
Much appreciated!
Cant wait for the tourture test. If it holds up, I got the PEBA already to be ordered.
I will try and do that soon 😁
Oooo, Also, putting a printer in a pressure chamber and increasing the pressure in the air pockets in the print would strengthen it and make it bounce better. It doesn't have to be much, just enough not to push out of the print once removed or when bounced. maybe 1.5 to 2 atmospheres.
@@TheInsaneupsdriver I might have to look into pressure chambers 😁
SUBSCRIBED....PERIOD 👍👍👍
@@josephsmith601 I appreciate it!
Thank you for the very detailed instructions!
Hope it helps!
This filament can change everything for bouncy objects. Great contribution.
Thanks! Yeah I can see it being very useful.
I need to try this. Good job 🙏🏻 I hope that the print will not fail as it costs 120€ just for 2 filament spools 😄
Thank you, and hope it prints well!
Someone should install internal RGB along the ribs that reacts to impacts
@@TheInsaneupsdriver oh dang that would be cool
Did you try using a support blocking cylinder instead of having to manually painting the blocker? Much easier and faster!
Didn't know that was an option lol, I will have to try it!
With most flexible filaments ive found lowering volumeteric speed can greatly increase quality and layer adhesion, giving it more durability and probably slightly better bounce but I dont have the tools to accurately test rebound and post-print shore hardness.
That is good to know, I might be able to print a couple and test these factors. Thanks!
@makeitlabchannel huge props for you actually putting in the effort rather than just doing pla and complaining when it breaks. Made one out of SEBS for school and everyone loves it, about 60% bounce but it is starting to warp after 2 months of abuse from kids and it's bounce is much less consistent. Will try this filament out once I get the money and I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out
@@pancakehm5563 much appreciated 😁 SEBS is on my list to try as well, glad to hear you have had decent results with it so far and I would love to hear how it turns out!
@makeitlabchannel if your trying sebs I'd recommend the higher shore hardness the better 90a was a tad too soft. Definitely enjoy the uv resistance and waterproof aspect though for outdoor use, hasn't yellowed a bit compared to most tpu filaments and it's easy to clean which is good considering how often a trash can is used as a hoop
@@pancakehm5563thanks for the info!
Thank you for sharing.
Hope it helps 😁
I was thinking about buying a 3d printer and would it be possible to complete this print with anyone available on the market or does it have to be a specific one?
That is a good question. I think that as long as the printer has the proper base necessities it should be able to print the ball. Some of the base needs would be a nozzle that can get about 250+ degrees C, a bed that can get to 90+ degrees C, and I would highly recommend direct drive because of the flexible filament. If you use something other than a Bambu Lab printer, I would also suggest running retraction, temperature, e-steps, and speed tests before printing as well.
Hello, can you tell me where I can register my inventions?
I wonder if the ball would benefit from some kind of Annealing. That works for PLA, PETG and ABS. Idk about this PEBA material though.
Yeah I am curious with that as well - might have to give it a try. Thanks!
Filament too expensive for me but thank you for telling me 😊❤😊
Yeah I hope someone will come out with some cheaper PEBA
I am trying out the PEBA filament but it keeps clogging the extruder. Any tips on how to get this to run smoothly?
I will try to help - what printer are you using? What nozzle temp/bed temp/speed?
could this filament work with the Bambu Lab A1?
@@Zetteton I have not tried it yet but I bet the A1 could handle it
AWESOME ... WIN
@@whoguy4231 Thanks!
is there a way i can lower it down to under 500. Idk if its just me but i dont really want to spend an extra 50 dollars only to use a forth of it.
@@actual_bs hey there, yeah I can see your point. If you use our new basketball model, I think the only way would be to decrease the size of the ball until it uses less than 500. When I printed the PartyLime double-lattice model, it only came out to about 480g or so of filament so that could be an option: th-cam.com/video/P5sE0fNV0Ms/w-d-xo.html
@@makeitlabchannel alright thanks man!
@@actual_bs hope it prints well!
I’m going to try again.
Hope it goes well!
Can this be done on Cura?
Most of this should work on Cura too - the only thing I am not sure about is painting custom supports. It looks like there is a plugin that would work similarly: all3dp.com/2/cura-custom-supports/
So to put it simply, it’s an $80ish basketball lol. And damn it I want to print this now.
Yeah probably around there lol, and it is really fun 😁
Hi, what was your settings for the fan?
I will try and give you the main settings below, please let me know if you need more info:
No cooling for the first 3 layers
Min fan speed threshold 40%, layer time 3 s
Max fan speed threshold 90%, layer time 12 s
Always keep fan on - Yes
Slow printing down for better layer cooling - Yes
Min print speed - 20 mm/s
Force cooling for overhangs and bridges - Yes
Cooling overhang threshold - 10%
Fan speed for overhangs - 90%
@@makeitlabchannelthank you. Great video! Helped out a lot
@@Laceejae thanks! Glad it was helpful 😁
Mind uploading your 3mf?!
If you send me an email at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com I can send it over to you 😁
When does the next video come out? The durability test where you hook shot the ball at the backboard from half court…😂
Since I want to include the single lattice file on that video and I am just starting the print, it won't be until at least next week, but yep can't wait to shank a few shots from half court 😂
I’m having a lot of issues with stringing, where a small thread of filament is left behind when the head moves across a gap. Have any tips to prevent this?
Hmm, my first question is what rpi ter are you using? When my Ender 3 was not broken I had to run a temperature and retraction test for just about any new filament. I would suggest starting with a temperature and retraction test to see the best results, although I know it is not a quick fix
Hello can you please give the download link to the full project aka the .3mf file. You could do this by entering the project and pressing file then save as
I would be happy to provide you with the 3mf. The best way would be for you to email me at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com and I can send that to you.
Hi can you please give the download link to the full project with supports aka the .3mf file.
Hi there, yes I can give that to you. The easiest way would be to email me at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com and I can send that over.
very interesting. im just wondering how you would fully print it as it takes up 600g of filament and on the website the spool only comes in 500g
I had to order 2 rolls of the filament, and when the first was running out I ran the beginning of the 2nd spool with the end of the first spool until the printer started printing with the 2nd spool (so I didn't have to pause the print)
@@makeitlabchannel ohh, this filament is rlly expensive then its over 100 dollars for 2
@@TrueFax-ti6fj yeah it is, that is even the cheapest that I found! I hope someone comes out with something cheaper. A couple people were scaling the ball down a little/using less infill and supports being the ball down to 500g
@@makeitlabchannel were you hesitant to buy it? did you not know how it would perform?
@@TrueFax-ti6fj Yes I was hesitant to buy it, but the description of the filament sounded like it would be ideal for the basketball and a lot of people were recommending it so I gave it a shot even though I have never printed with it before lol
What 3d printer do you use?
I used the Bambu Lab P1S
Great video, Great detail. the community thanks you!
Much appreciated, and glad I could help!
I need help. I tried painting supports and painting no support areas and the slicer keeps putting supports inside of the ball. Any advise?
I just sent you an email - hope it helps!
@@makeitlabchannel thank you I appreciate it!
How do you support paint the inside of 3D models
Hi there, when you are support painting, there is something called "section view." you can adjust the section view to customize what you see on the file so that you can paint what you want. Let me know if you have any questions, or if you would rather me send you the 3mf.
Are you gonna sell them? I been looking for someone to sell them so I can buy one
I don't think he can, due to the file licence on the model not allowing commercial use
Like mpawood said, I can't because it is not my file, plus I would like to test some things out to get the durability/weight just right. I am working on designing my own file so maybe someday 😁
You should try a single lattice file an and see what it does with peba. The double lattice didn’t go as fantastic for the Pla+ so maybe a single lattice will way improve the PEBA Ball.
@@ScaleToTheWire I have more PEBA filament coming in to test just that!
@@makeitlabchannel Great video! I ordered some PEBA to try and print my own. You mentioned trying to improve the weight. What if I increased the outer wall thickness or increased infill to try and take it from ~460g to ~600g(which is much closer to what the Wilson ball weighs), perhaps that might also increase durability as well? Or do you think a thicker shell or increased infill might mess with the bounce?
whats a good smaller file size basket ball the one now wont stop crashing my stuff
Oh dang, this is the only free file I know of with the double-lattice. There might be some options on Cults3D that you could pay for with double lattice and smaller file size, but if a single lattice is ok for you (won't bounce quite as well I don't think) then I can recommend this file: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6045662