haven't even watched it yet but so excited for this! Edit- There is a company here in India called WOL3D. they do sell raw PP filament and 3DX Tech has a CF-PP. It does cost ~60usd i think last time i checked and might be be out of budget for trying a 'failed' filament. Also about the TPU, someone did do a video with TPU i think and it didn't bounce much. I still think that CF flexible filaments might be the way to go since they might not crack and still have flexibility. Cheers! Thanks for trying out the filament request :)
I will check out the pp filament! I also tried to print CF tpu but it kept clogging/failing no matter the settings I changed or used and I ran out lol. After watching CNC Kitchen's video on flexible filaments I don't know if CF filaments will be the way to go but the fiberflex looks very promising: th-cam.com/video/4InFd5DoZa4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dMI_JPdQIsn0-5X1
@@makeitlabchannel Yes seems like that fiberflex might be a good way to go and why CF filaments wont work. I think the PP from Wol3D costs 3000INR or 36USD with taxes but I dont know about the shipping costs.
Hey there, I would be happy to. What printer/slicer will you be using? If you are using Bambu Studio I can send you the 3mf - if you send me an email at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com I can send the 3mf or information over
This video is amazing, I saw the video with the filaments designed for the ball. I have seen both of them and bought the Wisdream Flexitough. I printed it at 88% scale using your model. I think my temperature was too low. Do you have any tips to make the layer adhesion better, and the ball started to wobble with the supports, causing the top to get messed up and almost make the layers droopy on the outside layers. I can't figure out how to make the custom support bigger. Thinking of maybe printing half the ball at one of the seam lines with the amount I have left, then buying another roll print the other half, and glue it. I also might need to dehydrate the filament and aneal after
Thanks! For layer adhesion, I would recommend a slow couple of first layers without any cooling fan, and I would also recommend a bed glue stick like this one: amzn.to/3ZEwhSV. This also helps you remove the print off of your bed when it is done. Another thing I would recommend (if you can't make the supports bigger) would be to slow the printing down when it starts getting to the top. This will help the top of the ball print well along with hopefully decreasing the wobble. I think printing half of the ball at the seam lines and then gluing them together would work - I wouldn't know the best product to glue them together, maybe 3D gloop? dehydrating the filament and annealing would also be good ideas if possible.
@@makeitlabchannel thank you, will definitely buy another roll, the ball bounced good, it just had weak points when I printed it along layer lines at some points. Thinking 3d gloop might work or a 3d or pen. Good luck on your next prints!😅
I was printing on the a1, and I finally understand the problem with the wobble bed slingers have, as they are much worse. Was even printing in the garage on concrete
@@GraysonLillig Yeah the wobble on the bed slingers can definitely be a problem - I know it is already a long print, but maybe even slowing the overall printing speed could help? I also highly recommend a 0.6 mm nozzle as it cuts the print times in half or even more depending on printing speed. Might even help with durability but that is what I am testing now 😁
@@ShyamLal-o4n To print a full size basketball it will be about 645 grams with supports included, so 2 rolls are needed. I am working on another version of the ball that will work with just 1 kg roll without needing to scale the ball down
Nice video! Be careful with putting magnets down on the print bed, I know you put them on top of the build plate in the video but I saw that you can damage the magnetism of the printer’s bed by putting magnets on it without the plate on. Not common knowledge so I wanted to pass it along th-cam.com/video/Z4cwj2_VbZk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OzRVINdG39HjwDB_
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.15 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qbHbshrA1f0/mqdefault.jpg)
What should we try next?
bambu lab just released PPA--CF, you should try that, the stats on that filament are nuts
@@customswitchblade6924 I will check it out!
I am not sure you tried that but TPU seems like a good idea especially the harder ones.
@@dusek0000 I printed out a 98A hardness tpu one and it was durable but did not bounce well. I will have it in a video soon 😁
Awesome you keep making these! Looking forward to seeing Fiberlogy Fiberflex in one of your tests :)
Your my favorite 3D printer Chanel
@@Manlypopins I very much appreciate it!
@@makeitlabchannel of my god i didn’t think you would respond thank you for making my day
😁
haven't even watched it yet but so excited for this!
Edit- There is a company here in India called WOL3D. they do sell raw PP filament and 3DX Tech has a CF-PP. It does cost ~60usd i think last time i checked and might be be out of budget for trying a 'failed' filament. Also about the TPU, someone did do a video with TPU i think and it didn't bounce much. I still think that CF flexible filaments might be the way to go since they might not crack and still have flexibility. Cheers!
Thanks for trying out the filament request :)
I will check out the pp filament! I also tried to print CF tpu but it kept clogging/failing no matter the settings I changed or used and I ran out lol. After watching CNC Kitchen's video on flexible filaments I don't know if CF filaments will be the way to go but the fiberflex looks very promising: th-cam.com/video/4InFd5DoZa4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dMI_JPdQIsn0-5X1
@@makeitlabchannel Yes seems like that fiberflex might be a good way to go and why CF filaments wont work. I think the PP from Wol3D costs 3000INR or 36USD with taxes but I dont know about the shipping costs.
The Forrest Gump quote is priceless. 😂
@@StylishHobo Yeah that cracked me up lol
you should try Formfutura's flexible TPC filament
@@Sasquatch-nb3tc I will look into it 😁
Hey @makeitlabchannel, could you share your PP settings? Bought the same filament and wanted to do some experiments and your print looked great!
Hey there, I would be happy to. What printer/slicer will you be using? If you are using Bambu Studio I can send you the 3mf - if you send me an email at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com I can send the 3mf or information over
This video is amazing, I saw the video with the filaments designed for the ball. I have seen both of them and bought the Wisdream Flexitough. I printed it at 88% scale using your model. I think my temperature was too low. Do you have any tips to make the layer adhesion better, and the ball started to wobble with the supports, causing the top to get messed up and almost make the layers droopy on the outside layers. I can't figure out how to make the custom support bigger. Thinking of maybe printing half the ball at one of the seam lines with the amount I have left, then buying another roll print the other half, and glue it. I also might need to dehydrate the filament and aneal after
Thanks! For layer adhesion, I would recommend a slow couple of first layers without any cooling fan, and I would also recommend a bed glue stick like this one: amzn.to/3ZEwhSV. This also helps you remove the print off of your bed when it is done. Another thing I would recommend (if you can't make the supports bigger) would be to slow the printing down when it starts getting to the top. This will help the top of the ball print well along with hopefully decreasing the wobble. I think printing half of the ball at the seam lines and then gluing them together would work - I wouldn't know the best product to glue them together, maybe 3D gloop? dehydrating the filament and annealing would also be good ideas if possible.
@@makeitlabchannel thank you, will definitely buy another roll, the ball bounced good, it just had weak points when I printed it along layer lines at some points. Thinking 3d gloop might work or a 3d or pen. Good luck on your next prints!😅
I was printing on the a1, and I finally understand the problem with the wobble bed slingers have, as they are much worse. Was even printing in the garage on concrete
@@GraysonLillig Yeah the wobble on the bed slingers can definitely be a problem - I know it is already a long print, but maybe even slowing the overall printing speed could help? I also highly recommend a 0.6 mm nozzle as it cuts the print times in half or even more depending on printing speed. Might even help with durability but that is what I am testing now 😁
You made the build plate dirty again with your oily palm ✋
@@cowabungacrypto Yeah I might have to use a tool next time
What is the best material as of right now to print the airless basketball out of?
@@Diddy3.14 From what I have printed, both in durability and bounce is the PEBA filament, but it is also pricey
@@makeitlabchannel Thanks.
How much peba filament needs to be used to print a basketball, could you save money by getting a half roll?
@@ShyamLal-o4n To print a full size basketball it will be about 645 grams with supports included, so 2 rolls are needed. I am working on another version of the ball that will work with just 1 kg roll without needing to scale the ball down
Peba is the goat
@@cameronjensen6158 Yeah it is the best by a lot so far but I have a couple of filaments coming up that might be close or even potentially better 😁
@@makeitlabchannelare they more expensive then peba? I have 1kilo in the mail
Nice video! Be careful with putting magnets down on the print bed, I know you put them on top of the build plate in the video but I saw that you can damage the magnetism of the printer’s bed by putting magnets on it without the plate on. Not common knowledge so I wanted to pass it along
th-cam.com/video/Z4cwj2_VbZk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OzRVINdG39HjwDB_
Thanks very much for the info, really appreciated!
a pp ball
@@r3stl3ss Do you mean a raw polypropylene (pp) ball without the additives like in this video?