Hi. My problem is, when starting engine, the vac line connecting the shudder valve sucks vacuum and it closes the valve so car is stalling. The vacuum must be sucked only when turning of the car, but its applying vacuum all the time. when i disconnect the vac line the car starts because the valve does not close and i feel the vacuum being puled on the vac line.
I have a 2.0 tdi cffb engine. The anti shudder valve or throttle is at front of engine . My car keeps stalling and not re starting unless I use easy start...Would this be cause I.e gets stuck closed?
You need to have someone look at it when u stop engine. Remove intake before valve pipe so you can see it move. Or look at armature moving when starting or stopping engine.
Plugging or removing egr will result in more o2 into combustion chamber and higher ignition temps. Also runaway engine failure. USE MOBILE ONE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL and watch those carbon deposits go away. Personal experience.
@@organicvids actually, removing HOT exhaust gasses and allowing more COOLED air into the combustion chamber will result in a COLDER, DENSER charge. This leads to more power. Maybe go away and do some homework and then come back later
@@ethanmccrory1727 And more power leads to....? You know that combustion engines turn heat into power, right? More power means more heat. EGR can be turn on and off by the engine. When you need max power, it turns it off. When you don't, it adds a controlled amount of exhaust back into the charge to 1) burn off leftover hydrocarbons, 2) reduce NOx due to less available oxygen and lower combustion temperatures (because less fuel can be burnt as there is less oxygen), 3) increase charge temperature upon cold start to improve fuel atomization, and 4) provide the ECU with a greater level of control over internal engine temperatures in general, by varying the amount of EGR. Reducing engine temperatures using EGR is one it its primary functions, and it is widely documented. I suggest you do a little research before telling others to do the same. Although I suppose at least if they do go "do their homework", they are likely to learn that your assessment of EGR is incorrect.
this is the only thing saving you from a runaway grenading engine if you blow the seal on your turbo. it saved my ass 3 months ago on my tdi golf, the turbo seal failed and oil passed thru intercooler into intake causing massive smoke then stall. i restarted the engine and it tried to run away but i shut it down immediately. got tow home replaced turbo that night and running fine next day after clearing intercooler.
I have been dealing with this for 2 months. I was even quotes by the garage $3k to replace the fuel pump. This fixed it immediately. Thank you so much
Hi. My problem is, when starting engine, the vac line connecting the shudder valve sucks vacuum and it closes the valve so car is stalling. The vacuum must be sucked only when turning of the car, but its applying vacuum all the time. when i disconnect the vac line the car starts because the valve does not close and i feel the vacuum being puled on the vac line.
Sounds like hoses are swapped
I have a 2.0 tdi cffb engine. The anti shudder valve or throttle is at front of engine . My car keeps stalling and not re starting unless I use easy start...Would this be cause I.e gets stuck closed?
You need to have someone look at it when u stop engine. Remove intake before valve pipe so you can see it move. Or look at armature moving when starting or stopping engine.
Do you have a link for the actuator?
No, i think i mention seller in vid.
wheres this on 2.0 NoN TDI?
Only on diesels
It's not the actuator, it's carbon build up inside. Clean the inside and consider plugging up the egr pipe with a pice of metal
Plugging or removing egr will result in more o2 into combustion chamber and higher ignition temps. Also runaway engine failure. USE MOBILE ONE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL and watch those carbon deposits go away. Personal experience.
@@organicvids actually, removing HOT exhaust gasses and allowing more COOLED air into the combustion chamber will result in a COLDER, DENSER charge. This leads to more power. Maybe go away and do some homework and then come back later
@@ethanmccrory1727 And more power leads to....? You know that combustion engines turn heat into power, right? More power means more heat. EGR can be turn on and off by the engine. When you need max power, it turns it off. When you don't, it adds a controlled amount of exhaust back into the charge to 1) burn off leftover hydrocarbons, 2) reduce NOx due to less available oxygen and lower combustion temperatures (because less fuel can be burnt as there is less oxygen), 3) increase charge temperature upon cold start to improve fuel atomization, and 4) provide the ECU with a greater level of control over internal engine temperatures in general, by varying the amount of EGR.
Reducing engine temperatures using EGR is one it its primary functions, and it is widely documented. I suggest you do a little research before telling others to do the same. Although I suppose at least if they do go "do their homework", they are likely to learn that your assessment of EGR is incorrect.
remove it that's the egr...runs much better without it
this is the only thing saving you from a runaway grenading engine if you blow the seal on your turbo. it saved my ass 3 months ago on my tdi golf, the turbo seal failed and oil passed thru intercooler into intake causing massive smoke then stall. i restarted the engine and it tried to run away but i shut it down immediately. got tow home replaced turbo that night and running fine next day after clearing intercooler.
Positive air shutoff valves are thing you know 🤣