Very cool tutorial Jack of All Trades, I appreciate your knowledge. I learning as many How To's I possible can. Unfortunately not a lot of honest services here in Florida. Keep up the good teaching us wanna bees :)
@bytboy i have not. I did just troubleshoot a bad stack flu sensor and control board and replaced it. That video will be up soon... honestly, I'm hoping it stays fixed for a while, lol.
A lot of the mastertemp problems are rats chewing but also the control boards getting wet. Those covers still allow water in. I see it all the time. When the control boards go you will get false sensor outages as well. This is the number one issue with these. Replace the top keypad as well. Aftermarket's work fine. Peace. I work on 20 of these a week at least.
I just purchased a home that has this same exact heating unit. The pool inspector mentioned that it wasn't working so I'm going to remove the panels to see if it can debug it. Hopefully mine would be a simple fix.
This issue I had was pretty simple compared to some of the issues people have come here with. If you get stuck, check out all the different comments here... many times, I help somebody troubleshoot and resolve the problem. Good luck!
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you! I think pulling out the panels and visually inspecting the motor, circuit board and other visual signs of damage might be a good starting point.
Great video! Our clear tubes were pristine, so I replaced the Air Flow Switch. The system worked for about 3 weeks and has quit again. Is the next step to take apart and check the fan for debris? How would that be accomplished? Thank you.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thanks for the quick reply. No, the burner does not light at all. The system clicks 4 or 5 times and I can smell gas as it tries to light, but it eventually times out and displays "ERR IGN". I also noticed when I first turn the heater on, it is displaying "ERR AFS".
@shawnstewart00 same thing happened to my neighbors unit and it ended up being that the spark electrode had rusted away from the burner so it was no longer near enough to the natural gas to ignite it. There are several safety features on these heaters so the fact that you are getting all the way to gas releasing, but there's no ignition, means one of the elements of fire are missing. Maybe air? You said you were thinking of checking for debris in the intake.... I think that's a good idea. The click you are hearing is the ignitor, but it may not be close enough to combust the gas or may not be getting enough air.
I do not. You would need to cut off the supply and then verify that the supply valve was indeed fully shut. Bleed the line and repair/replace the valve. Then bleed the air in the line and test the new valve. This would be something I'd likely leave to a professional given the level of hazard involved. These things connect directly to your gas meter in most cases.
Great video. we have the same heater and keep getting Error Code E5. Check the stack sensor with the multi meter and it was fine. Then Control panel and it indicated it should be replaced. Called our pool installer (pool is only 3 years old) They came out and replaced the Control Panel. Seemed to work for a couple of days and then started receiving Error Code E5 again as the heater would shut shortly after starting. Any suggestions?
@RobertSpengler-n4l so the pool goes all the way through the startup sequence, fires up, and then turns off immediately? Do you feel any heat come out of the rear exhaust at all?
Hello wondering if you have an idea of whats going on with my Pentair heater. It has a service heater light that stays on till heater is ignited. It seems to fire up, I can hear it. It releases hot air from exhaust vent, but there doesn't seem to be hot water making it to the pool. It is slightly warmer, it will get the pool to about 75 degrees but that's it. Feeling the water coming into pool is not hot. Having trouble finding a Pentair Service tech anywhere around me. I would be able to change something out if knew what the issue could be. Thanks
@oscarsolis7786 how long have you let it run for? If you feel heat coming out of the exhaust... and I mean hot hot air, then it's heating something. Mine takes about 8 hours to heat up 12k gallons about 10 degrees. Are the water flow valves at the front of the heater open?
Thank you for replying. It can run days straight and not get above 75. It was previously getting very hot water to pool and you could feel it coming out. I'm starting to wondering, if a replaced gas valve regulator is causing an issue. It had a leak and had to be replaced about a year ago. Thgts on gas valve regulator? Or maybe something else that's not releasing the hot hot water? The exhaust is definitely hot air.
@osolisjr since the exhaust is hot, you have ignition. Maybe open and close your inlet and exit water valves near the heater. See if something is clogging it. I don't think the gas valve would be an issue unless they also changed something on the pool heater. Gas valve issue would keep the exhaust from being hot cause there would be no ignition.
Hey jack my pentair 400 won't ignite the blower kicks on but the heat won't kick on just the blower I've replaced the thermal regulator and a high limit sensor and it's still not working anything else I could be looking for
I'm assuming you checked the tubes like in this video ans none are leaking. Did you completely shut the power down on it after the part replacement? Check for a rodent nest in the actual blower? Should be a screen over the intake but it could be missing. Are you getting any error codes?
Thank you Jack for this video. My heater is Jandy LX and I get a service code AGS. It looks like it will start and I hear the flow of gas/ and sound of flame/ Fann, but it stops after 30 seconds with AGS code. Any thoughts? Thanks again
The only reason I could think that it would fully run and then shut off would be water flow or temp. Have you tested the temp sensor out? What temp readings are you getting? Are they real high or low or do they make sense?
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you for your reply. No I didn't test the temp sensor out. I'm kind a newbie here, and I don't know where it is or how to test it. But the reading on the heater screen shows the water temp as 20c and I adjust the heater to 26c. From my searches, the AGS means Automatic Gas Shut-off sensor and I couldn't figure out where it is located to test it.
@@obeliskgroup5714 nearly all of the sensors are located behind the smaller black panel that is located where the inlet and outlet water pipes are. If you Google a schematic of your model it may show what each one is.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you. I searched for it and downloaded all related drawings I could find, but I didn't see the location of AGS sensor although it was mentioned in the trouble shootings. I called a technician today and will see what he can do.
My pentair heater is having issues heating too. For the past couple of months the igniter has blown up several times. Now the igniter is blowing up every time a new one is installed. I’ve had the repairman try to fix it 3 times this week. A new igniter control module was installed (the old one was fried) along with a new igniter. After that it heated until 101 degrees. Then when it went to heat up again the igniter exploded. This has happened several times where it will heat to the set temperature and then the igniter explodes when the heater starts back up. Any idea on what could be causing this? This is beyond frustrating.
If you've had repairmen out and they can't fix it them I'm not sure I can help. If a new igniter is blowing up then my first idea is that it's getting too many amps and volts. Try looking up what the operating voltage is for the igniter and use a multimeter to check what the output is at the connector. If it's putting out too much then it's possible that a capacitor or transformer is feeding it too much and may be bad.
@@losangeles5615 The ignitor is sitting in combustion space surrounded by circular pipes pressurized with pool water. I would remove one of the bottom bolts holding manifold on to see if any water leaks out.
Ok lets check a few things. Your pump is on? Is the pull fuse in the correct position in the panel box feeding it (it has an orientation)? Also, check that you don't also have a separate breaker for the heater in your main power panel that may be off.
@The Jungle Book depending on your state and local code requirements, you may just have a physical pull breaker. They can't really go bad. That's what I have, but it is possible to have an actual breaker too.
@The Jungle Book is it possible you turned off the water valve and the spa is not getting water circulated? Does this heater also heat a pool? Is it getting heat?
@gmoneypower no, there is a valve that opens electronically to let the gas into the system, and that valve doesn't open until all safety requirements have been met by the heater. It goes through several checks.
Hey I have a master temp 250 that I've had to replace just about everything on it at least twice. It goes through the start up cycle and won't fire. At first it was the HSI so I replaced it and it worked all summer. When it got really cold in the morning lately it wouldn't fire but then when it warmed up in the afternoon it would. Now it just won't fire at all. Is it possible that the HSI is just not getting hot enough. I know that after it cycles through the start up process and then locks out I have felt down around where the HSI is seated and it is pretty damn hot so I'm pretty sure it is working. Could it be getting hot and still not working? When I pulled it it looked fine the prongs are not damaged or cracked it looks good as new. I get no error codes on the button membrane and when I looked at the back of the control board I see no error led lights coming on. Still starts up blower comes on clicks three times than locks out. I can smell the faint odor of gas after the clicks and have checked it with the AGS disconnected and jumped with a wire. Still wouldn't fire. when I just disconnected the AGS and left them hanging and tried to start I could see on the back of the control board the red led next to the AGS marking as it should be. All electronics seem to be working fine as they should. Damn thing just doesn't want to fire for me. The last time I was able to get it to fire it seemed to take much longer than usual after the click and then I finally felt a little warm air coming and then it fired. May be I just need yet another HSI which would be the third one I've gone through this year. Other ones I replaced were obviously damaged so it wasn't a mystery but this new one gets hot and looks fine. Actually keep a spare HSI around just for that reason but my spare wouldn't fire it either! Both get hot and seem to be fine. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Interesting. Ok so your startup process is making it pretty far it sounds. It has to go through several safety check before it will even allow gas to release. If you are making it that far then there are only a few things left that it can be. Either amount of air or quality of ignition. You've double checked that the air intake and exhaust are not blocked? Where are you sourcing your HSI? Quality part? It sounds like you know enough to properly troubleshoot this. Is the heater in a really damp area? Have you tried cleaning the HSI after it fowls? The only other thing I can think of is improper voltage to the HSI where it doesn't get enough to become red hot and ignite it within the ignition window.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Yeah I think it may be that the HSI is not functioning properly it just seems weird that it would fire in the afternoon when it was a little warmer but not in the morning and then it just stopped firing completely. Also the last time it fired it stayed on for like five hours and warmed up the pool fine. I've tried jumping other safety switches like the water pressure and high limit switch as well to no avail. I think that my problem may be within the ICM just not getting enough voltage to the HSI as you suggested. I don't think the ICM is totally fried because it still takes the unit through the start up process as normal and then flashes three times when it locks out as it should. It's really frustrating when everything seems to be ok but the unit just won't fire. Not relishing the thought of getting a new ICM and a new HSI probably looking at 500 bucks minimum. Then no assurance that it will fire even after that. The unit is outside and not in a shed or anything so I don't think dampness is the issue, although I did speculate that condensation in the combustion chamber was getting on the prongs of the HSI from the coldness at night and then warming in the morning. But I have tied blowing a heat gun through the intake of the blower for a while to see if I could warm things up a bit in there before starting and that didn't work either. Like I mentioned I looked at the HSI multiple times and can see no moisture or cracks or anything that would be an issue.
@@fliktrax that's a tough one for sure. A pool tech would probably sell you a new heater rather than troubleshoot this. Have you been able to find a manual and verify correct voltage to the HSI? I think at this point you need to verify voltages first before you fall down that rabbit hole of throwing parts at a problem. That can get really frustrating.
Hello Jack, I just replace the combustion blower fan motor on my mastertemp 250. I'm not getting any ERROR codes on the front or back of my display board but on the Diagnostic Indicator it's giving me two flashes "Flame No Call For Heat" what am I missing here? Please HELP!!!
@@marlonlara1954 the clicking is the ignitor. Hmmm .... sounds like the gas valve is not opening. Do you have all your vacuum tubes hooked up? Is the fan kicking on?
Hi I have the Pentair and it ignites then shutoff after 5 to 10 secs. I put in a new Thermal and 2 new plugs in front. Cuts on and I get r13,888,126 and heating light comes on but no service light. What else can it be?
Tami... if it ignites and runs then it is already making it past several safety checks. How is the water flow through the system? You can check by removing the inlet and outlet and hooking a hose up and watching the flow coming out... it may have a restriction. Could also be a slight airflow restriction ... check for a mouse nest at the intake and exhaust. Are you sure it ignites? Sounds like a furnace or gas stove kicking on.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Yes, it definitely ignites and heat comes out of the vent. Are you saying disconnect the black pipes going into the heater from the. Ground? Where do I insert the hose?
@@tamimorales1116 these units are made to be pretty versatile so your pipes could be on any side of the Heater. For mine the inlet and outlet are right under the control panel at ground level. You can flush water through either pipe and you donr have to necessarily disconnect the pipes at the hester..heater... but checking water flow is probably a good idea. It might be getting too hot because of poor water flow due to calcium buildup.
@@JackofAllTrades1 ok yes my pipes are under control panel at the ground. But where would I insert hose to run water through? I'm going to open it all up to ck for mice nest and ck tubes ect.
Usually it means one of the sensors needs replacing. It could be a number of things. When you first turn the heater on, it should display an error code. That will point you in the right direction.
There is a stepped process in which everything comes on. The fans are one of the very first steps, I would check for obstructions (mouse nest, acorns) that would keep the fan from turning or power interruption. Also look for the fan connector and make sure it's not chewed up or burn out. Do these checks with the power turned off at the wall disconnect.
my heater will turn on, no service light but the igniter and blower will not kick on. It is showing that the temp is 126, but the water temp is more like 68.
I have an issue. I have a pentair heater . It turns on and it heats up like in 20min the service heater light comes on and stops and the control panel stops working so I have to unplug the heater and plug it back in to work again. It will work and do the thing . Please help
Can you tell if the heater is leaking water at all? Is the ground wet around it? It sounds like what you are able to do is by unplugging it, you are resetting a sensor. Do you get any error codes on the control board?
@@phillyguysgolftrips have you looked inside it yet? Look at the back of the control board for green corrosion or burnt marks..look for frayed wires...look for anything that doesn't seem right. Make sure you disconnect the power at the box on the wall first.
@@phillyguysgolftrips that or possibly not getting enough flow like there is debre blocking water from getting in or leaving the heater and possibly overheating that way. Do you know where the temperature sensor is on the heater?
Yes-Sir: USF alum, class of '96 & L.W.R. resident...thanks for the handy info! Going to use some of the knowledge gleaned from your tutorials to go change out the Stack Flue sensor & clear an 'E 05' code.@@JackofAllTrades1
What if it kicks on, I feel warm water coming out, everything is fine and then a minute later, Service light shows and then it kicks off and no more warm water comes out anymore
@@JackofAllTrades1 I think it's correct. I'm in NC and it says it's 66. Is it easy and inexpensive to replace the temp sensor? This thing isn't even a yr and a half old :( Kids thought they were going swimming this week, guess not lol
@Derek Suarez the temp sensor is going to be on the output pipe under the front manifold area... usually at the bottom (black plastic cover in my video). It's easy to do, but there are 3 different sensors there so it's a matter of locarinf it.. Have you tried disconnecting the power from the disconnect box and letting it sit... then trying again?
@Derek Suarez do you know to test the sensors to see if they are bad. I think most of them are supposed to be in the open position normally, but if I were you, I'd start running some tests on those sensors, a d seeing which one is bad. It is very likely a temp sensor.
@@TimSheean-t8m time, look here www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pentair_MasterTemp_Heaters#What_Do_the_Diagnostic_LEDs_Mean_on_the_Pentair_MasterTemp.3F
The water PH plays a big part in things falling apart. I learned that the hard way. I let things get too acedic and had to replace my chlorinator. I try to check the water every week
@@JackofAllTrades1 I didn't see any codes. I'll check that out tomorrow. I'm going to clean the contacts and any connectors, especially the thermostat. Was told it could be acting up
@@noelv1976 let me know what you find and I'll try to help with what I know. I've fixed many gas furnaces over the years and this is essentially a small furnace.
If you are in need of an LED pool light, check out my recent review: th-cam.com/video/AFHgbzQuJvI/w-d-xo.html
Nice job! We have the same heater with the Service Heater light on. We will have to see if any rodents damaged any of the tubes.
Jon, I was kinda shocked at just how open these units are. Just about anything smaller than a squirrel can get in there... good luck!
You are the man! Simple fix and Go Bulls! 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Awesome, glad it worked!
@@JackofAllTrades1 literally fixing it now. $30 in supplies from HD.
@josephmoran2006 much better than paying $100 for a tech to diagnose the same thing...and then try to sell extra stuff not needed.
@@JackofAllTrades1 the hardest part is that it’s a Sunday and I ran out of light cutting the screen. Thanks again!
@@josephmoran2006 glad I could help
Very cool tutorial Jack of All Trades, I appreciate your knowledge. I learning as many How To's I possible can. Unfortunately not a lot of honest services here in Florida. Keep up the good teaching us wanna bees :)
Sam, that so true. So many scams and lazy techs who show up but do absolutely no work. Or break something that's no a problem so they can charge more.
Excellent video friend. You saved me so much time. Thank you much
Glad I could help you Robert... that's the whole reason I make videos.
Hi - have you changed a thermocouple or igniter on this 250? Would love a video on that
@bytboy i have not. I did just troubleshoot a bad stack flu sensor and control board and replaced it. That video will be up soon... honestly, I'm hoping it stays fixed for a while, lol.
A lot of the mastertemp problems are rats chewing but also the control boards getting wet. Those covers still allow water in. I see it all the time. When the control boards go you will get false sensor outages as well. This is the number one issue with these. Replace the top keypad as well. Aftermarket's work fine. Peace. I work on 20 of these a week at least.
Yea, I'm about to do a keypad video here soon.... kinda shocked how open these were made. The vent holes are huge! Thanks for dropping in.
Do you have a video on how to change igniter and thermostat-coupling for the 250?
I just purchased a home that has this same exact heating unit. The pool inspector mentioned that it wasn't working so I'm going to remove the panels to see if it can debug it. Hopefully mine would be a simple fix.
This issue I had was pretty simple compared to some of the issues people have come here with. If you get stuck, check out all the different comments here... many times, I help somebody troubleshoot and resolve the problem. Good luck!
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you! I think pulling out the panels and visually inspecting the motor, circuit board and other visual signs of damage might be a good starting point.
@@DesmoSD agreed. I show the basics of where to start with that. Lmk if I can help.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you!
Great video! Our clear tubes were pristine, so I replaced the Air Flow Switch. The system worked for about 3 weeks and has quit again. Is the next step to take apart and check the fan for debris? How would that be accomplished? Thank you.
At what point is it failing? Does the burner kick on at all?
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thanks for the quick reply. No, the burner does not light at all. The system clicks 4 or 5 times and I can smell gas as it tries to light, but it eventually times out and displays "ERR IGN". I also noticed when I first turn the heater on, it is displaying "ERR AFS".
@shawnstewart00 same thing happened to my neighbors unit and it ended up being that the spark electrode had rusted away from the burner so it was no longer near enough to the natural gas to ignite it. There are several safety features on these heaters so the fact that you are getting all the way to gas releasing, but there's no ignition, means one of the elements of fire are missing. Maybe air? You said you were thinking of checking for debris in the intake.... I think that's a good idea. The click you are hearing is the ignitor, but it may not be close enough to combust the gas or may not be getting enough air.
My service heater light doesn't come on, but the service system light does. Should I assume it's another problem? The tubing looks good. Thank you.
@@TinaLauman are you getting any error codes? Does it try to start up at all?
Do you have a video tutorial to replace the gas valve?
I do not. You would need to cut off the supply and then verify that the supply valve was indeed fully shut. Bleed the line and repair/replace the valve. Then bleed the air in the line and test the new valve. This would be something I'd likely leave to a professional given the level of hazard involved. These things connect directly to your gas meter in most cases.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Good to know. I was wondering if it was easy to replace. I did get a technician to replace it.
I wouldn't say it's a hard job but does require some special equipment and it carries some risk.
This is amazing. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful Ali.
Great video. we have the same heater and keep getting Error Code E5. Check the stack sensor with the multi meter and it was fine. Then Control panel and it indicated it should be replaced. Called our pool installer (pool is only 3 years old) They came out and replaced the Control Panel. Seemed to work for a couple of days and then started receiving Error Code E5 again as the heater would shut shortly after starting. Any suggestions?
@RobertSpengler-n4l so the pool goes all the way through the startup sequence, fires up, and then turns off immediately? Do you feel any heat come out of the rear exhaust at all?
Hello wondering if you have an idea of whats going on with my Pentair heater. It has a service heater light that stays on till heater is ignited. It seems to fire up, I can hear it. It releases hot air from exhaust vent, but there doesn't seem to be hot water making it to the pool. It is slightly warmer, it will get the pool to about 75 degrees but that's it. Feeling the water coming into pool is not hot. Having trouble finding a Pentair Service tech anywhere around me. I would be able to change something out if knew what the issue could be.
Thanks
@oscarsolis7786 how long have you let it run for? If you feel heat coming out of the exhaust... and I mean hot hot air, then it's heating something. Mine takes about 8 hours to heat up 12k gallons about 10 degrees. Are the water flow valves at the front of the heater open?
Thank you for replying. It can run days straight and not get above 75. It was previously getting very hot water to pool and you could feel it coming out. I'm starting to wondering, if a replaced gas valve regulator is causing an issue. It had a leak and had to be replaced about a year ago. Thgts on gas valve regulator? Or maybe something else that's not releasing the hot hot water? The exhaust is definitely hot air.
@osolisjr since the exhaust is hot, you have ignition. Maybe open and close your inlet and exit water valves near the heater. See if something is clogging it. I don't think the gas valve would be an issue unless they also changed something on the pool heater. Gas valve issue would keep the exhaust from being hot cause there would be no ignition.
@@osolisjr does your heater have 5 buttons on the front or 6?
Donde comprar las mangueras
I got the hose at Lowes, but it can be found at any home improvement store.
go bulls! 🤘
@@robillardk That bowl game was great!
Hey jack my pentair 400 won't ignite the blower kicks on but the heat won't kick on just the blower I've replaced the thermal regulator and a high limit sensor and it's still not working anything else I could be looking for
I'm assuming you checked the tubes like in this video ans none are leaking. Did you completely shut the power down on it after the part replacement? Check for a rodent nest in the actual blower? Should be a screen over the intake but it could be missing. Are you getting any error codes?
Thank you Jack for this video. My heater is Jandy LX and I get a service code AGS. It looks like it will start and I hear the flow of gas/ and sound of flame/ Fann, but it stops after 30 seconds with AGS code. Any thoughts? Thanks again
The only reason I could think that it would fully run and then shut off would be water flow or temp. Have you tested the temp sensor out? What temp readings are you getting? Are they real high or low or do they make sense?
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you for your reply. No I didn't test the temp sensor out. I'm kind a newbie here, and I don't know where it is or how to test it. But the reading on the heater screen shows the water temp as 20c and I adjust the heater to 26c. From my searches, the AGS means Automatic Gas Shut-off sensor and I couldn't figure out where it is located to test it.
@@obeliskgroup5714 nearly all of the sensors are located behind the smaller black panel that is located where the inlet and outlet water pipes are. If you Google a schematic of your model it may show what each one is.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thank you. I searched for it and downloaded all related drawings I could find, but I didn't see the location of AGS sensor although it was mentioned in the trouble shootings. I called a technician today and will see what he can do.
@@obeliskgroup5714 good luck, sorry I couldn't be more help.
My pentair heater is having issues heating too. For the past couple of months the igniter has blown up several times. Now the igniter is blowing up every time a new one is installed. I’ve had the repairman try to fix it 3 times this week. A new igniter control module was installed (the old one was fried) along with a new igniter. After that it heated until 101 degrees. Then when it went to heat up again the igniter exploded. This has happened several times where it will heat to the set temperature and then the igniter explodes when the heater starts back up. Any idea on what could be causing this? This is beyond frustrating.
If you've had repairmen out and they can't fix it them I'm not sure I can help. If a new igniter is blowing up then my first idea is that it's getting too many amps and volts. Try looking up what the operating voltage is for the igniter and use a multimeter to check what the output is at the connector. If it's putting out too much then it's possible that a capacitor or transformer is feeding it too much and may be bad.
@@JackofAllTrades1 thank you for replying! I will be sure to give this suggestion to the repairman who is coming out today again for the 5th time now.
@@losangeles5615 The ignitor is sitting in combustion space surrounded by circular pipes pressurized with pool water. I would remove one of the bottom bolts holding manifold on to see if any water leaks out.
I was hoping that you would show the sensors
@orlandor.2435 almost all of them are located in the front under the black cover where the water inlet and exit are located at.
i can see lights on the main jandy aqualink panel but no lights on my heater i fixed the wires that got chewed by rats.......is it a bad fuse?
Ok lets check a few things. Your pump is on? Is the pull fuse in the correct position in the panel box feeding it (it has an orientation)? Also, check that you don't also have a separate breaker for the heater in your main power panel that may be off.
@@JackofAllTrades1 im not sure if the fuse is good or not im gonna order a replacement and see if that does anything.
@The Jungle Book depending on your state and local code requirements, you may just have a physical pull breaker. They can't really go bad. That's what I have, but it is possible to have an actual breaker too.
so the fuse actually fixed the power issue going to my controller but its seems the spa isnt getting hotter although the heater is alive now...
@The Jungle Book is it possible you turned off the water valve and the spa is not getting water circulated? Does this heater also heat a pool? Is it getting heat?
Do you need to turn the gas off before doing all this?
@gmoneypower no, there is a valve that opens electronically to let the gas into the system, and that valve doesn't open until all safety requirements have been met by the heater. It goes through several checks.
Hey I have a master temp 250 that I've had to replace just about everything on it at least twice. It goes through the start up cycle and won't fire. At first it was the HSI so I replaced it and it worked all summer. When it got really cold in the morning lately it wouldn't fire but then when it warmed up in the afternoon it would. Now it just won't fire at all. Is it possible that the HSI is just not getting hot enough. I know that after it cycles through the start up process and then locks out I have felt down around where the HSI is seated and it is pretty damn hot so I'm pretty sure it is working. Could it be getting hot and still not working? When I pulled it it looked fine the prongs are not damaged or cracked it looks good as new. I get no error codes on the button membrane and when I looked at the back of the control board I see no error led lights coming on. Still starts up blower comes on clicks three times than locks out. I can smell the faint odor of gas after the clicks and have checked it with the AGS disconnected and jumped with a wire. Still wouldn't fire. when I just disconnected the AGS and left them hanging and tried to start I could see on the back of the control board the red led next to the AGS marking as it should be. All electronics seem to be working fine as they should. Damn thing just doesn't want to fire for me. The last time I was able to get it to fire it seemed to take much longer than usual after the click and then I finally felt a little warm air coming and then it fired. May be I just need yet another HSI which would be the third one I've gone through this year. Other ones I replaced were obviously damaged so it wasn't a mystery but this new one gets hot and looks fine. Actually keep a spare HSI around just for that reason but my spare wouldn't fire it either! Both get hot and seem to be fine. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Interesting. Ok so your startup process is making it pretty far it sounds. It has to go through several safety check before it will even allow gas to release. If you are making it that far then there are only a few things left that it can be. Either amount of air or quality of ignition. You've double checked that the air intake and exhaust are not blocked? Where are you sourcing your HSI? Quality part? It sounds like you know enough to properly troubleshoot this. Is the heater in a really damp area? Have you tried cleaning the HSI after it fowls? The only other thing I can think of is improper voltage to the HSI where it doesn't get enough to become red hot and ignite it within the ignition window.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Yeah I think it may be that the HSI is not functioning properly it just seems weird that it would fire in the afternoon when it was a little warmer but not in the morning and then it just stopped firing completely. Also the last time it fired it stayed on for like five hours and warmed up the pool fine. I've tried jumping other safety switches like the water pressure and high limit switch as well to no avail. I think that my problem may be within the ICM just not getting enough voltage to the HSI as you suggested. I don't think the ICM is totally fried because it still takes the unit through the start up process as normal and then flashes three times when it locks out as it should. It's really frustrating when everything seems to be ok but the unit just won't fire. Not relishing the thought of getting a new ICM and a new HSI probably looking at 500 bucks minimum. Then no assurance that it will fire even after that. The unit is outside and not in a shed or anything so I don't think dampness is the issue, although I did speculate that condensation in the combustion chamber was getting on the prongs of the
HSI from the coldness at night and then warming in the morning. But I have tied blowing a heat gun through the intake of the blower for a while to see if I could warm things up a bit in there before starting and that didn't work either. Like I mentioned I looked at the HSI multiple times and can see no moisture or cracks or anything that would be an issue.
@@fliktrax that's a tough one for sure. A pool tech would probably sell you a new heater rather than troubleshoot this. Have you been able to find a manual and verify correct voltage to the HSI? I think at this point you need to verify voltages first before you fall down that rabbit hole of throwing parts at a problem. That can get really frustrating.
I’m having the same symptoms as you. Did you end up figuring this out?
Have you pulled the igniter out and checked ohms? Should be between 60-90 I believe
Hello Jack, I just replace the combustion blower fan motor on my mastertemp 250. I'm not getting any ERROR codes on the front or back of my display board but on the Diagnostic Indicator it's giving me two flashes "Flame No Call For Heat" what am I missing here? Please HELP!!!
Was gas turned back on? When you kick it on does the fan run at all? Does it try to start?
@@JackofAllTrades1 yes I made sure.
@@marlonlara1954 what happens when you push the pool heater ON button? Anything?
@@JackofAllTrades1 I replaced the Igniter and the Stack Flue and nothing. I hear it click but does not fire up. ☹️
@@marlonlara1954 the clicking is the ignitor. Hmmm .... sounds like the gas valve is not opening. Do you have all your vacuum tubes hooked up? Is the fan kicking on?
Very cool
Thanks Vincent
Hi I have the Pentair and it ignites then shutoff after 5 to 10 secs. I put in a new Thermal and 2 new plugs in front. Cuts on and I get r13,888,126 and heating light comes on but no service light. What else can it be?
Tami... if it ignites and runs then it is already making it past several safety checks. How is the water flow through the system? You can check by removing the inlet and outlet and hooking a hose up and watching the flow coming out... it may have a restriction. Could also be a slight airflow restriction ... check for a mouse nest at the intake and exhaust. Are you sure it ignites? Sounds like a furnace or gas stove kicking on.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Yes, it definitely ignites and heat comes out of the vent. Are you saying disconnect the black pipes going into the heater from the. Ground? Where do I insert the hose?
@@tamimorales1116 these units are made to be pretty versatile so your pipes could be on any side of the Heater. For mine the inlet and outlet are right under the control panel at ground level. You can flush water through either pipe and you donr have to necessarily disconnect the pipes at the hester..heater... but checking water flow is probably a good idea. It might be getting too hot because of poor water flow due to calcium buildup.
@@JackofAllTrades1 ok yes my pipes are under control panel at the ground. But where would I insert hose to run water through? I'm going to open it all up to ck for mice nest and ck tubes ect.
@@tamimorales1116 there should be round disconnects right there that unscrew and free both the inlet and outlet pipes.
My problem is that (although the hoses are fine) the heater shuts off after 60 seconds and the Service Heater light is ignited. Any ideas?
Kathy, do you know if it is just the exhaust fan that is kicking on or is it also the gas burner? Do you feel heat coming out of the exhaust?
@@JackofAllTrades1 I do feel the heat. BTW, it was the Flue sensor - easy replacement. Thanks
@Kathy Thompson thanks for coming back and providing that information. It only strengthens the information this video provides.
I wish I had rats chewing holes in my airlines. I replaced the ignitor and that didn't help. What else could it be?
Tell me your symptoms. What happens when you turn the pool heater on? Does it make any noise?
@@JackofAllTrades1 Error codes will show on circuit board by indicator lights. Self diagnosing.
Why would service system light turn on?
Usually it means one of the sensors needs replacing. It could be a number of things. When you first turn the heater on, it should display an error code. That will point you in the right direction.
My service heater light comes on but no fans come on. Completely quit. Any ideas?
There is a stepped process in which everything comes on. The fans are one of the very first steps, I would check for obstructions (mouse nest, acorns) that would keep the fan from turning or power interruption. Also look for the fan connector and make sure it's not chewed up or burn out. Do these checks with the power turned off at the wall disconnect.
Where do I get the tubing?
Lowes or home dept.
my heater will turn on, no service light but the igniter and blower will not kick on. It is showing that the temp is 126, but the water temp is more like 68.
So the display lights up but no sound feom the heater at all? Does pushing the "heater on" button yield any change at all?
I have an issue. I have a pentair heater . It turns on and it heats up like in 20min the service heater light comes on and stops and the control panel stops working so I have to unplug the heater and plug it back in to work again. It will work and do the thing . Please help
Can you tell if the heater is leaking water at all? Is the ground wet around it? It sounds like what you are able to do is by unplugging it, you are resetting a sensor. Do you get any error codes on the control board?
@@JackofAllTrades1 No leaking and no water around and no error codes
@@phillyguysgolftrips have you looked inside it yet? Look at the back of the control board for green corrosion or burnt marks..look for frayed wires...look for anything that doesn't seem right. Make sure you disconnect the power at the box on the wall first.
It’s fine I think it my be over heating and shutting down
@@phillyguysgolftrips that or possibly not getting enough flow like there is debre blocking water from getting in or leaving the heater and possibly overheating that way. Do you know where the temperature sensor is on the heater?
Go Bulls!!!
I love USF, and I love Raymond James Stadium!
Yes-Sir: USF alum, class of '96 & L.W.R. resident...thanks for the handy info!
Going to use some of the knowledge gleaned from your tutorials to go change out the Stack Flue sensor & clear an 'E 05' code.@@JackofAllTrades1
What if it kicks on, I feel warm water coming out, everything is fine and then a minute later, Service light shows and then it kicks off and no more warm water comes out anymore
Could be a couple of things, but the temp sensor comes to mind. Does the "current temp" reading appear correct?
@@JackofAllTrades1 I think it's correct. I'm in NC and it says it's 66. Is it easy and inexpensive to replace the temp sensor? This thing isn't even a yr and a half old :( Kids thought they were going swimming this week, guess not lol
@Derek Suarez the temp sensor is going to be on the output pipe under the front manifold area... usually at the bottom (black plastic cover in my video). It's easy to do, but there are 3 different sensors there so it's a matter of locarinf it.. Have you tried disconnecting the power from the disconnect box and letting it sit... then trying again?
@@JackofAllTrades1 I've cut it off at the electric box multiple times.
@Derek Suarez do you know to test the sensors to see if they are bad. I think most of them are supposed to be in the open position normally, but if I were you, I'd start running some tests on those sensors, a d seeing which one is bad. It is very likely a temp sensor.
I am going to open my up. My pool guy told me it’s not good and I need a new one. The service light is on and I think the heater still good.
Def check as much as you can before you replace. Sounds like he may be trying to sell you a new unit.
if going into service mode. look at back of circuit board. Indicator light will tell the problem.
Pentair , service system light on
Tim, it can be any number of things. Are you getting any error codes? What are your symptoms?
Where would I find number codes that pentair
@@JackofAllTrades1 won't do anything when turned on
@@TimSheean-t8m does the panel light up at all? Start from the basics... is the breaker tripped?
@@TimSheean-t8m time, look here www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pentair_MasterTemp_Heaters#What_Do_the_Diagnostic_LEDs_Mean_on_the_Pentair_MasterTemp.3F
Sometimes it turned on sometimes it doesn't. hate the pool, nothing but problems
The water PH plays a big part in things falling apart. I learned that the hard way. I let things get too acedic and had to replace my chlorinator. I try to check the water every week
Pour rat poison on the inside.
Probably not a bad idea.
Wtf I'm trying to find trouble shooting by regularity not problems due to pest prevention. Smh
Sorry..
@@jesussolis8934 Hopefully you figured it out.
Wish it was this simple. Heater worked for about an hour then the Service Heater light came on. It got to around 100° before it stopped working. 🫤
What are your symptoms now when you turn it on? Anything at all? Any codes?
@@JackofAllTrades1 I didn't see any codes. I'll check that out tomorrow. I'm going to clean the contacts and any connectors, especially the thermostat. Was told it could be acting up
@@noelv1976 let me know what you find and I'll try to help with what I know. I've fixed many gas furnaces over the years and this is essentially a small furnace.