Black Tie Dress Code | 9 Fundamentals For A Black Tie Event
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ค. 2024
- Kirby Allison, founder of The Hanger Project, goes over the fundamentals of a black tie and the small, subtle details that make this look so special. A man looks at his best when a black tie is perfectly executed. Every rule that you follow makes you look better and every rule you break makes you look worse. Following these traditional guidelines will ensure that you show up to a black tie event appropriately dressed so you can rest in confidence that you look proper in any formal situation.
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Rules of Black Tie:
Dinner Jacket: No notched lapels
Trousers: Single, vertical stripe & No cuffs
Bow tie: Same material as tuxedo lapel
Fold Down Collar or Wing Collar
Covered waist: Cummerbund (pleats facing upwards)/Waistcoat
Black Dress Shoes: Cap Toe Oxfords, Wholecuts, Opera Pumps
Black Socks: Over the calf silk or non fuzzy black socks
White Shirts: Plain with a flat front
Buttons: Studs or Shirt with covered placket
Pocket Square: How to fold a pocket square video → • How To Fold A Pocket S...
Vest (optional): Accessorize with pocket watch or pocket watch chain
Watch (optional): Thin timepiece with leather strap
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It's amazing to think that Black tie was invented as a "casual" evening wear. A step down from White tie at dinner that at first was scoffed at for being far too casual.
What do you mean invented as? It still is. *I sip my Champagne whilst in full White Tie surrounded by Valets*
Just to be clear, I'm joking but agree that it does now seem amazing that that was once the case.
That’s right, we wear white tie at Livery company’s annual dinner.
Its amazing to think, in some circles, jeans and a sports coat is considered "formal". SMH.
because white tie is ridiculously uncomfortable especially if you're living in a Mediterranean or sub-tropical or worse tropical or much worse in a desert climate. It just looks completely out of place and weird.
Best thing anyone ever told me was that back tie allows you to relax. No worries about over or under-dressing. No worries about the latest fashions. Just enjoy the conversation and the dinner.
“This silk socks don’t look like your sister’s stockings...” this took me out😂😂😂😂
Especially as they do!
Well, I would say that here in Europe, one important rule is that a black tie should not see the daylight. In other words, it is a suit you don for events in the late afternoon or night. Otherwise, you seem to forget that double breasted jackets are very elegant and often chosen by the Prince of Wales, and his elder son. My tuxedo is also double breasted with peak lapels.
I was once at a black tie event and saw a guy wearing Converse sneakers with his tuxedo. I bet he thought he was cool, but more like clueless.
Exactly! In certain crowds, you could get away with it. But in the wrong crowd, you'd just look uninformed, to put it nicely.
The Hanger Project 💪💪🥂🥂
prom is really the only place that would be acceptable
Mediahound i Think he was cosplaying the 10th doctor from doctor who
Ok, I'm reassured (follow up on my 20 sec old comment) lol
I’ve watched several of your videos. Read many of the comments. I am a stranger, in every way, here, but I am grateful for the opportunity to share a glimpse at just some of the knowledge you possess. I am intrigued by our live’s differences. I admire your excellent dedication to the refined traditions in your world. Thank you, Mr. Allison.
Thank you so much for sharing such knowledge Sir! I feel ashamed of having dressed up so badly for previous black tie events but I now know that the next time I'm going to a black tie event, I'll be one of the most confident persons there.
Every rule that you follow, makes you look better.
Every rule that you break, makes you look worse.
Best comment for Black Tie ever.
Wow, such high productivity and high quality!
Starts at 3:50
Thank you Kirby this video really helped me out for a upcoming event
another very solid video, Kirby!
Thank you! Worked hard on this one.
Thank you , all your videos are very informative and the presentation is excellent.
Thanks, Albert!
This is a dress code I want to understand to the smallest detail. I learned a lot……..
Thanks for this video, Kirby 🔥🤝
Full marks Mr. Allison, not many people know that one doesn’t wear a watch with black tie, also you caught the fact that the jacket should not have side vents. Regarding the shoes, traditionally they should be in patent leather, although a mirror shine is also acceptable. You are a man of knowledge
Polshorloge:vestzak horloge mag wel..😊
Very informative. I learned a lot. Thank you 🙏
Your grandfather must have been a very stylish and debonair gentleman.
For a Texas car dealer who grew up on a dirt farm, he didn't do that bad for himself! But I credit my grandmother for more of my sense of quality. She was (is) a rare bird.
That is exactly what I think of whenever Kirby narrates how he bought that relatively expensive pair of shoes during his college days. (I'm like either his parents or his g.parents were aristocrats)
I mean they were aristocrats in the sense that they knew how to dress like aristocrats and were really stylish
My father’s aunt was a perfectionist, so that probably explains why I too follow formal dress codes well and always go out with a tucked collared shirt
Thank you Kirby!
Kudos to you! 👏
Would love an update to this video, but maybe Kirby going through some Do's and Don’t's, and maybe a top five celebrity black tie mistakes in pop culture. I'm certain he has some cases in mind....
You make some interesting and informative videos, Mr. Allison. What are your views on the wearing of decorations with black tie?
Hi Kirby! Great Video as always. I was wondering when you would deem it appropriate to wear trews with black tie. And similarly, a white waistcoat as was commonplace during the golden age.
Thanks :)
Thank you for the great advice! Is the color of the scarf merely preferential or is there a rule? Also, could you elaborate a bit on gloves and proper outer coat for winter month events. Thank you!!
Hi Mr. Aliison,
Thank you for this helpful video on black tie. I’m wondering if you can make a comprehensive video on White tie dress code.
Thank you.
I’ll be wearing black tie for my wedding, but I don’t know if I should have a midnight blue or a black one made. I think the blue is very good looking, but the black is more classic and versatile
Thank you very much for the infoation bro
@ KIRBY ALLSION any preference or recommendation when wearing pleated vs plain front shirt and wing collar vs laydown or spread collar? Which combo works best?
Hi Kirby, I recently acquired a waistcoat that has peaked lapels. The lapels themselves are tacked on to the body of the waistcoat by a single stich on both the upper lapel and the lower lapel. Is this just tac stitching that someone forgot to remove?
Interesting to know you have several black tie events during your college time. In my country (tropical), that's not the typical case when you're in the university/college. For instance, I am almost 30 years old and I haven't been required to attend to a black tie event (optional or mandatory) so far. The most formal dress code you are bound to comply with, during that time or even after that, is the "business attire" e.g. the graduation, etc. I guess all or most of the men in those events you attended were required to wear a tuxedo, I guess it was not an optional matter. So, in my case, is less probable to wear it, even if oneself is eager to be a little bit "overdressed" and tuxedo is not common in middle class important events (except, sometimes, a groom in his wedding). In the so-called high society it can be more usual in some opportunities.
Regards. Nice video/information.
I’m only two minutes in and I already know that I’ve found the right source to learn the rules of Black-tie
Very informative video.
Thanks!
Though not as common you left out the option of the double breasted tuxedo. (witch a waist covering is not required as you never undo a double breasted jacket, even when seated.)
What is the typical width of a peaked lapel on the jacket? I'm looking to have a custom tux made and I'm wondering what lapel width I should go with. Is 3" too slim? 4" too wide? Thanks.
Can you wear a red boutonniere with black tie
Yes. Single carnation is traditional with black tie.
How about a velvet dinner jacket, is it true that you can wear one instead of a matching tuxedo for any black tie event?
Kirby, great video. I have a pair of black wholecuts as my shoes. I was just wondering, where do you purchase silk shoelaces? I haven't been able to find any here in the UK
Check out The Shoe Snob. Justin sells some silk laces. Otherwise, you could pop into Cleverley. They should have some in the store.
Great channel and video. I have a white tie ensemble that I would love to wear but opportunities are rare. I do, however, have opportunities to wear a black tie ensemble. Can I wear white tie to a black tie event? Is this over dressed? Thanks for your insight.
I LIKE IT
Am I allowed to wear a wing collar with pleats for black tie? I’ve read somewhere once that this is only for white tie.
Hello,
I am currently in college and will graduate in (hopefully) three years. At my commencement, I hope to wear a Tuxedo and follow all of the traditions (peaked lapel or shawl collar, studded shirt, pants with galon, etc.). However, we are allowed to get different stoles (long, thin pieces of fabric worn over the shoulders and draping down to torso) bases on our department, year, and other factors. So my question is do you think that I would be able to do so? I know that black tie is not really the place to add a bunch of color (for reference, the stoles I would wear are blue+gold and green+white), but I think that they could be done tastefully and my college graduation will be something that personally warrants the use of black tie.
Thank you
I have a Black-Tie event this weekend but I don't have anything appropriate to wear yet, I need to buy the whole package since I don't feel comfortable renting a tux, any ideas about how much it will cost me to get everything needed ?
What material should the pocket square be made of?
Mr Allison what about overcoat and hats? Is there any specific rule about it ? ( hats I assume a black cilinder)
I have a question, Kirby Allison, why cap toe Oxfords instead of plain toe Oxfords? Also, are chisel toes acceptable?
Many people say absolutely no vents on the jacket. But I find that many gentlemen sporting a central vent on a jacket with shawl lapels looking effortlessly great. Is that a rule that one can break?
2:04 your wife is very beautiful, you’ve done well kirby
Question: wearing a white vest under the coat it is ok?
So why are there so many different style of Tuxedos? Are they all flawed compared to the classic?
What about an overcoat in rainy weather?
Hey, Kirby great video! This really helped me, but I was wondering about the rules for a Double Breasted suit, would you still need a cumberbund or waistcoat?
You don't need a waistcoat or cummerbund with a double- breasted tuxedo/dinner suit, but you do need to make sure it stays buttoned up.
Thank you very much! Have a pleasant day.
Where can I get the thin silk socks you wear?
Hi kirby, always a great value video from you, a quick question on wing collar shirts.. Are these appropriate or is it best for the shirt to be a turn down collar? All the best
To my knowledge they are appropriate, just the best looking wing tip shirts have starch collars and some people find them uncomfortable. Personally I don't mind them, comfort wise.
Quite appropriate if a tall, well starched detachable collar paired with either a marcella front, or a boiled shirt such as would be worn with white tie, inappropriate if attached, and especially inappropriate with a pleated shirt.
Excellent video, thanks. One question...may cufflinks be a bit different than the studs on a formal shirt ?
Yes. Many gentlemen choose to match studs and cufflinks or just choose to match metals but it’s a stylistic choice
White tie next!
Yes, White Tie next!
is a velvet jacket ok seen them worn at the Oscars and bafta awards
Kirby, I would like to know more about the wing collar shirt.
I've seen tuxedo shirts with many pleats in the front upper part of the shirt. Any rules about those kinds of shirts and is the plain one necessary?
A pleated tuxedo shirt is totally appropriate.
I have a black tie event coming up next month and this was the first place I came to figure out how to do it correctly! This is more of a "fun" black tie event, a local dinner/boxing event combo. I'm wearing a midnight blue tuxedo. I don't have it in my budget to get patent leather shoes but I have oth some oxfords and whole cuts that take a great mirror shine. My question is this: How formal do the cufflinks need to be? I have some wood and silver cufflinks, they are in ebony wood insert in a square silver holder, that I would like to wear. Are those too informal? Thanks in advance for your, or anyone else's, insight!
With regards to cuff-links, I've always known the general rule of gold is worn in the day-time and silver for evenings; so your silver and ebony links will be fine.
Can you do videos on white tie dress code PLEASE!
So is a dark green or dark red dinner jakets bad or what?
Almost ashamed to admit that it took 38 years before i attendded my first proper black tie event last year. Cue much panicking, when i remembered this video. Pulled my black cap toe oxfords from the closet, gave them a mirror polish with some Saphir polish, a good close wet shave and put on my tuxedo.
Kirby must the shirt studs match with the cufflinks? I lost my mother of pearl (MOP) shirt studs and have got new ones but they do not match with the MOP cufflinks.
The cufflinks have a different design to the new shirt studs I bought
They don't have to match as long as it doesn't look like you are trying to match. I have several pair of vintage cuff links that I have from my father / grandfather and great grandfather, that are impossible to match so I don't try. Keep the shirt studs simple. I use to wear a uniform to black tie, which was always cool in a room of civilians, but in a room full of military personnel, it was important to learn how to differentiate when everyone looked exactly the same. Cuff links were one of the easiest ways.
@@rogerhuston8287 Sorry to bother you, I was just wondering which uniform? I have just been thinking for some time a mess uniform would look good. Of course, I'd never wear a uniform myself to Black Tie as I have no connection to one, but if I could I certainly would.
@@nateranger783 - US Navy Officer Formal Dress - Blue Jacket.
Great video Kirby.
One quick question - I bought a doublebreasted tuxedo, would it be to much to wear a cumberbund or a waistcoat?
Thank you!
You don’t really need a waistcoat or cummerbund with a double breasted dinner jacket since they are meant to be kept buttoned at all times. If you do want to have a waist covering a waistcoat is the right choice to pair with a double breasted jacket. Make sure sure the waistcoat is a dinner one, low front with lapels.
This is a great video, especially as we approach the holiday season. Is it appropriate to wear opera pumps in the winter? Mine have a pretty high vamp, so they don't appear "summery," but just wanted your thoughts on this. BTW, my function will be in NYC this winter, totally temperate climate. Thanks!!!
Opera pumps always appropriate!
Fine to wear opera pumps for winter . I would say that the very low vamp is the distinguishing feature of the shoe style, you might have Albert slippers, which have a high vamp, different thing entirely
sure almost no one wears it anymore but please make a video on White Tie.
For sure. It is on the list.
"A splash of color does not make you look debonair, it makes you look uninformed." I disagree, sir. A nice boutonniere brings in some color and makes you stand out and yet remain elegant. A red or white carnation is very classic and has often been worn to black tie events.
And also, depending on the black tie event, one can become creative with your dinner jacket. Of course there's the classic ecru jacket with a shawl collar, but darkly colored velvet dinner jackets aren't uncommon, particularly burgundy double-breasted ones. And if it's for a holiday/festive event, one could wear a silk velvet bow tie in a dark green or red.
And when it comes to shirts, white stiff/pique front shirts are the most formal, yes, but a good tuxedo pleated shirt is also acceptable. I'm honestly astonished you are so hard and fast with your one way to wear a tuxedo!
Isn't the idea of men wearing all black tuxedos look all the same and let their woman shine? Isn't that the traditional gentleman philosophy?
You just don't get it!
Thk u so much for this informative piece. I have a black tie event and I dnt have a black shoe and my budget won't accommodate any buying but I have a midnight blue brogue shoe. Can I rock it?
Go with black!
Wish he had a video on the business suit and it’s history
Two questions with regards to black-tie. First, would it be considered extra formal if the cap toe oxfords would have satin laces? Lastly, are full gold cufflinks acceptable?
A belated reply I know but general rule is gold cuff-links worn in the day-time (weddings) and silver for evening events.
Question .... does the tuxedo supposed to be fitted close to your body shape or loose? I saw some tuxedo that looks very relax and kind of not close fitted like modern day suits.
The dinner jacket tends to have a tighter cut by virtue of lacking vents. This is meant to be more tailored.
Not related to this. But can you do a video on how to clean & condition leather jackets/coats using saphir products?
I'd love to do a video like this. Sometime soon!
@Kirby. What color should the tuxedo jacket lining be?
I would go with a dark color
I deffo agree on most of this...with the exception of the Cummerbund, there’s no need to wear one and actually on many men it breaks up the line of the suit and fills out their waist more, thus achieving the opposite of what you want a well cut suit to achieve.
Black tie looks best minimalist however these days black tie can be a bit more relaxed depending on the event, you can wear a dark coloured smoking jacket and look extremely well turned out, and certainly not out of place at 90% of black tie events. White tie...ok there’s no wiggle room, but black tie I think it’s good to see some slight variations on it being only black or midnight blue.
I take those cummerbunds were contrasting coloured cummerbunds. A black cummerbund performs the opposite, enlongating the body by lengthening the legline, and shortening the torso. In turn, this gives the impression of height
The number one rule in black tie is to avoid ostentation. As a result black tie is actually a great leveller. Understated, easy elegance is the aim, and largely due to the degree of uniformity in dress the devil is as much in the small details as the obvious. Keep all accessories simple, logo-free, discreet and timeless. The only bits of flesh on display should be your hands and face, so remember to make those look as well-tended as the rest of you! Lastly, if this is your first black-tie event, put the kit on in advance (if possible) and get used to yourself in it - feeling at ease will help your bearing and allow you to enjoy the whole occasion more.
Kirby, is a dinner jacket supposed to have a buttonhole on its lapel? I see some do, some don't, thanks!
Not required, but not a faux pas. Single Carnations are traditional white or red.
Hello Mr. Allison,
Just a question.
Will it be ideally or historically correct to have surgeon's cuffs with the Tuxedo jacket?
Yes. If you mean turn up cuffs, A bit sophisticated, perhaps even old fashioned but certainly correct.
I have a question. Is a cummerbund or waist coat still required if you’re tux is double breasted?
I have a holiday party for a business group it says black tie encouraged but not required. Curious your thoughts. Also, it’s important to note that this is a group of entrepreneurs, and unfortunately, while some will be in full black tie, others will show up in T-shirts and hats. This has me wondering if I should do something that’s respectful to black tie, but tone down a bit? Like maybeall black tie with a green and black tuxedo jacket?
Perhaps a dinner jacket with formal trousers?
You're very detail. Can't hardly wait to attend for my cousin wedding. Thanks for your advice
Is it ok to wear a black double breasted jacket with peak lapels for a black tie event?
I am looking to have a bespoke dinner jacket made by either Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole or Huntsman on Savile Row. I am torn between a peak lapel or a shawl lapel design. My question is this, is there a difference in the design and finish of the trousers with either the peak or shawl lapel design, or is it acceptable to have two jackets made (one peak and one shawl lapel) with one pair of trousers to be used with either jacket?
The trousers are the same for both peak lapel and shawl lapel dinner suits. Waistcoats are more typical for peak lapel/ in the UK in general, cummerbunds are more typical with shawl lapels. Double breasted doesn’t really require either since you’re buttoned up. Rather than a peak and shawl lapel dinner jacket, perhaps an odd dinner jacket as an additional option. With the tailors you mentioned be prepared for sticker shock, you’re looking at quite an expense.
what about tuxedo jackets with two buttons?
Should I wear a cummerbund with my grey/black tuxedo on my wedding date?
Got his black tie event pool face on
would be interested to hear your thoughts on white dinner jacket tuxedos as well
I’m not an expert like Kirby, but my impression is that a pale jacket makes one look like one is one of the waiters or a member of the band, not a guest. M.
A white dinner jacket can be nice. Shawl lapel single or double breasted, self faced lapels, wear your regular tuxedo trousers. Suitable for tropical weather or on a cruise or resort
You should make video like about white tie.
I wear button covers and it looks fine and is acceptable
I have a question. If wearing a midnight blue tuxedo, should your socks be midnight blue or would black be acceptable? Thanks.
Black, midnight blue or even a color such as crimson or purple are all options socks are an area where you can be a bit colorful. Stick with over the calf fine dress socks and as with everything formal, less is more
I have one question, is it okay to wear a velvet dinner jacket (dark blue or dark green) to a black tie event? Considering the jacket has all the right characteristics, single button, peak lapels in grosgrain and no pocket flaps, the rest of the outfit would be the same as a tux
Thanks for the help
I think it depends on the venue. Last year I wore a royal blue velvet dinner jacket with shawl lapel to a fundraiser for a public aquarium. The rest of the outfit was standard black tie to not go totally overboard.
Vest or cumberbund?
I have a question about this video Kirby, for the black tie jacket cuff, I saw lots of them have 4 buttons in a row, but I also saw some of the jacket cuff only has one button, which one is most tradition if that is what separate them, or which one fit in which lapel sort of things. I am so confused. Thank you
I tend to see dinner jackets with fewer cuff buttons than lounge suits. My preference is 3 buttons. They are often closed h covered in the same material as the lapel facings.
Just curious. In the old days when everyone went to dinner with a tux. How many would they own for going out every week or two or three times a week.
Typically one dinner suit. It would be brushed after wearing.
@@jeffhreid thank you for the response
I love ur socks
Great video, thanks.
My tailor recommended that I should have two side vents and that would be totally correct today.
Was he wrong?
Yes he is. Vents were originally made for when you go horseback riding. Since you would never do this in black tie, it's wrong to have vents.
It’s not as formal as no vents. If you chose to have vents make sure to choose double vents not a single vent . The single vent is a equestrian feature as others mentioned, it’s a sporting affectation and not appropriate for evening wear.
I believe also that if a wristwatch must be worn, it's preferable that it be time only and have no other complications (which allude to the guest being too concerned with time) while at a black-tie event. Would also go 36mm or smaller for someone of average to slight wrist size worn on the non-dominant hand.
Would a pocket watch be appropriate? Would be very elegant, I would think? Just my opinion.
Is it a valid option to Match the Colour of her dress (lets say Blue or Green) with the colour of your bow tie?
And how about Pocket square colours?
You shouldn't change your bow tie's colour, its called black tie for a reason, understandable question though it would perhaps look nice but it just isn't right.
Very well
I dont own a tux and I don’t usually go to black tie events But i got invited to one that said black tie preferred . Can i use my dark navy blue suit and use a white shirt with studs and a black bow tie?
Thanks for your help
No, looks like a cheap rip-off of a tux
@kim doan doesn’t know what she’s talking about. “Black tie preferred” means exactly what it says - the hosts “prefer” that you wear a black/dark tuxedo, but it also implies that they are understanding of those who do not own one, or perhaps those who aren’t prepared to rent one (they can be very expensive just to rent!) If you have $150 (minimum) laying around to burn on an outfit you’ll only wear for a few hours, (granted, it’s worth it, IMO - you’ll feel like a boss wearing a tux), I’d recommend that you do so. If not, read on...
I’m going to assume that this event is a wedding and that you ARE NOT standing up or part of the bridal party. I’ll also assume you’re on the “younger” side (
Hey Kirby...I have a question. Does wearing black tie mean one must be clean shaven, or is it ok to have facial hair, like a goatee?
I know this response is a bit late but, it might be helpful. Based off of your photo, you have a full beard, this is perfectly okay. Just make sure that it is well groomed and neat. Stubble however, is absolutely not acceptable.
what brand is your tuxedo? what are cheaper brands for good looking tuxedos
This is a bespoke tuxedo from a tailor in Chicago. I'm not very familiar with current off-the-rack tuxedos... but I'd just look for something that fits well and has peak lapels. These are the important basics.
I just bought a Calvin Klein tuxedo from Men's Wearhouse. It is black, with a single button closure, shawl lapel, and no vents. The pants have a single satin stripe down the legs, with a flat front and no cuffs. It fits great and I think I'll be wearing a cummerbund with matching bowtie and mother of pearl cufflinks and studs with it.