I Needed A Reflow Oven, so I made one!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2020
- Hello everyone, I'm really sorry for the lack of proper videos, I've not abandoned you... I've been really busy working on the Stargate, but I've also been doing some other little side projects and some of them required the use of a reflow oven to solder my PCBs.
I've been wanting to make one of these for a fair while, but now that want has become a must, so I've finally got round to doing it.
This video like many of mine does ramble a little... but I hope you enjoy it and I hope it might inspire others to get into the maker hobby.
As always the things I make cost more than my next to nothing income, and the Stargate so far has cost me a lot more than I originally planned. If you feel like you want to help support me by donating some money towards the cost of my projects please make a donation at my gofundme...
www.gofundme.com/f/jxxvn-help...
I might consider starting a patreon account but for now I've just got the gofundme.
===A WARNING===
As I mention in my video, I made a little mistake that triggered the RCD for the circuit I was on in the house. It was stupid as I was taking logic level digital knowledge and tried to use that on a mains connected circuit.
It was an educated guess, and I was WRONG! I really should have seeked advice first before trying to filter a live mains connected electronics.
While there was next to no risk to me as I was working on a part of the circuit that had its voltage dropped to logic level it was foolish.
I implore you, if you have little to no electronics experience DONT PLAY WITH MAINS ELECTRONICS AT ALL!.
And if you do know a bit about electronics but are unsure like I was about mains, SEEK HELP AND ADVICE OR DONT RISK IT!
Preach over!
Stay safe in these troubled times,
All the best
Take care :) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![TREASURE - 'KING KONG' COMEBACK SPECIAL [THE TREASURE SHOW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Jx1wyMaQzf0/mqdefault.jpg)
INSANE amount of work put into this, man. Congratulations, you are a beast!
You are the true definition of a Renaissance man. Creative ideas, electronics knowledge, hunter of bargains, eye for aesthetics, story telling, and video editing skills. Really impressive. Here’s hoping this oven continues to work well for you.
Great project and lots of work! 👍
Good idea is to use dimmer to get over from flickering lights..
That is a very impressive build!
I liked the idea of replacing the SSR with a dimmer control ! Now I got a deeper understanding where SCRs are more efficient than an ON/OFF switching method.
This is awesome. I don't need it, but I want it.
Most impressive. Very well done. I started building a reflow oven years ago but had to downsize and move, so it got put on hold. Like so many projects, the longer you wait you find better ideas surface and you're back to "reviewing" what you should do. For me, building something is more for the fun than for the use.
Thanks. I'll see about funding you in some way, if only for a while.
Hi and indeed the development can be all the fun, though only sometimes :p Im currently in some development hell with a part of a project im trying to complete.
Ive used the oven, but not quite as much as I should :p Though its been useful.
Also any kind of funding is always very helpful. Ive just had to buy some more resin to print some parts and ive pretty much maxed out my monthly budget so everything helps. No matter how little.
Im glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Take care
Loving the videos, looking at reflow oven prices now online and looks like you saved a hefty sum making one and if something breaks down the line fixing should be relatively easy unless it fries completly :x
Thanks and yeah i should have mentioned, in the end after the cost of the parts I ended up not using, i spent around 60 or 70 quid. But the BOM of the parts used is around 50. With commercial reflow ovens being at least £140
Nice! But really not necessary, I just put a board in. Set it to 150... then crank it to 200 I see the paste reflow. Wait 20 more seconds. And turn heat off :)
Open the door. And let it cool. And it works perfectly.
Thanks for great content!
Nice job and great looking unit and graphics ! I am wondering why you are targeting 6C/s heat ramp? I'm looking at a Kester SnPb profile and it specifies < 1.8C/s. An AIM SAC305 calls for 2C/s maximum.
Or, are you targeting the 6C/s to translate to 2C/s or thereabouts for the PCB itself?
Thank you for sharing this beautiful project with us. I did your project last week, but I couldn't run it, then I realized it was my fault I connected the zero cross detection to the wrong pin. I will try again I am a retired electronics software Maker . Do not worry, I am aware of the danger
You're very welcome. Yeah I made stupid mistakes too. Good luck on the next test. Don't blow out any circuits :p
Great work @Mangy_dog
Thank you :)
Would you consider making the code of the Arduino and nextion public/ open source?
Check other comments I have uploaded to github, but its use at your own risk please dont hurt yourself... no support kinda thing. As it was a reluctant upload. Its not really ready for public consumption....
Love the project, do you have the sketch and hmi files available?
At the moment no... I would say my code isnt fit for the general public right now anyway... It would need some tidying up and maybe a few methods reworked to something a bit more efficiant...
Also there is still 1 little bug I need to fix, and thats with the heat cycle run time graph... its a little offset in time compared to the profile graph thats drawn... As it was just me using it I can ignore that little offset... But if i made this public, id have to go and fix it :p
Soooo maybe in the future I might release this.
@@MD_Builds If you would publish it with those remarks, I'm sure the community will fix those issues for you ;)
@@tengelgeer Yes, please, could really use it as a spring board
What IDE are you using? Also thanks for sharing your project. Very inspirational
An eclipse offshoot called sloeber
@@MD_Builds Really appreciate you getting back to me, thank you
hello ! Is it possible to have the arduino code without the dimmer things ?
I will only use a SSR to switch on and off.
Thank you !
Look at the other comments to see the github link. But Im not going to go through it to change the code to remove the timer code... If you can take anything good out of my code... By all means.
Interesting, but it seems way more complicated than others I've seen. Yours was pretty high wattage and was lamp powered it seemed whereas others I've seen used a bottom heating element. I wonder though. I'm assuming that you were turning the light on and off so much because it put out such high direct heat. I was wondering if it could have offset how many times you would have to flip the heat on and off if you built a shield between the pcb and the heat source, so instead of getting heat directly, it would have been heated indirectly from the air? That way, the element could stay on until the heat was getting close to target and maybe slightly over. It just seems the air would contain the heat better than trying direct infrared radiation hearing, especially when the source put out such high heat.
Just wondering if it could make a difference. Honestly I've never seen a halogen driven oven before, so I'm not sure of their characteristics.
Hi that's a great video about a solder reflow projet. Is your code available? Did not see it was in the video.
github.com/MangyDogUK/ReflowOven But im really not keen on having this public, as I dont want to be responsible for any injuries or fires. Please be really careful if you do this yourself.
@@MD_Builds I understand that very well, Working with mains is not for everyone. I over 30 years experience in electronics, so this is not an issue for me. Thanks for the code. I'm interested in the way you got the display section, it's very nice and I happen to have an Nextion display lying around and lonely.
Can it be programmed to be used as dual mode as reflow oven and a filament dryer oven? I could not find a cheaper oven that have lowest temp of 40c most doesn't have switchable between f and c temp I'm stuck with f temp only one has it and it's more expensive oven
Good question, the answer is maybe with a big caveat...
The issue is i added the extra halogen element.
For filament drying youd really want air circulation going as well.
With some small modifications, remove the halogen, and adjust the programming to allow for lower temps like 40c, it could be possible.
Also just checked, a 1kg spool wont fit if the halogen is there... So it would have to be removed too... Or get a bigger oven.
@@MD_Builds my toaster oven is big enough for a pizza it use regular heating element it can do both reflow and dryer it's that I hate those turn knobs not accurate temp
As for halogen I don't recommend that and yes airflow is needed for cooling down
@@jamesfatula5824 Also Halogens tend to be more a contact heater like IR. The ceramic/quartz elements in your typical toaster oven are better suited for lower slower temps. But youll need to program your pid to anticipate the slower heating curve. For instance you dont really want to put your pla into an oven hotter than 40C or it can warp the filament making it useless. But for ABS and PETG you can go as high as 50c to do drying. You also want a fan going on inside to move air about and distribute heat evenly.
your GUI are so amazing, can you explain how to achieve them ?
kinda hard to do a full explanation here... But the graphic assets like the Yellow framing and button names were drawn in a graphics package like Photoshop. Organised and placed within the Nextion IDE. And I wrote some code within the nextion IDE to handle certain events. The red boxes and liens and evn the graph drawing was a runtime draw call. The graphs were draw commands sent over serial from the Arduino, telling where to draw a dot. I had to write code to draw all the dots between two points and that made my line. Its slow runtime process but works for the UI.
It really is a case of choosing what code runs inside the nextion and what is done via serial from the arduino... Planning....
@@MD_Builds ok ok thank you so much for the response, I’m so so inspired from your work !
@@vincenzozinfollino5330 Thank you, thats one of my goals with this channel if Im to continue working on it. I want people to be inspired to make there own things too...
Hi there, Congratulations on the project, I am also interested on the display part? I already found the nextion displays, a question? What about the frame around the display it was 3d printed or you bought on the internet? The actual project finish is really nice!
I need one machine 😊
Great Project and very Nice Work. Would you mind and share the Code and maybe the Schematic for it?
while not collated and organised, all the details of how and what you need to build one is in the video. Its not that complex really...
As for code..... im not keen on passing the whole program out...
Mostly right now because its a right mess to look and navigate... But I might release something in the future
That would be really nice to release the BOM and the source code under some type of GPL linenses. Heck even charging $10 to get all of that is fine and gives you some extra money for more projects.
Interested in building a reflow oven any chance of getting more information?
Check the other comments... theres links :)
I dont get it, SSR contains a triac and zero crossing circuit, why reinvent the wheel ? why was that circuit not flickering the lights ?
I think he wanted to implement phase control for smoother flicker-free operation as in conventional dimmers. SSR with ZC only fires at ZC and stays on for the entire half period. That may have caused flicker. A light bulb will definitely flick if you control if with a ZC SSR. If you do phase control with a micro you have to roll your own ZC detection so you know when to fire off the triac.
what soft do you use ?
I used the Sloeber plugin for Eclipse to do my arduino code in... The display uses Nextions IDE to build the UI. I used various graphics tools to make the assets...
2:32 what program did you use?
Eclipse with the sloeber plugin for the arduino side of the code. And Nextions IDE to build the UI.
@MD_Builds is there a way to get the source and some more details? I would love to rebuild your setup.
github.com/MangyDogUK/ReflowOven but i really want to stress, Take very special care with this one. So much can go wrong and I dont want to be responsible for anyone getting hurt. I was very reluctant to release these files, but loads of people asked....
@@MD_Builds Thank you, I'll take care. Everyone should know that 230V are no joke, and never work under voltage powered on.
@@MD_Buildsone question at 12:06 you showing the small board for the scr dimmer can you please share the details? Are that both pc817 octocouplers from sharp?
@@joseffrohle2689 Im pretty sure I put a circuit diagram on my github... need to check... but yes jelly bean optos... hmmm turns out the schematic isnt up there... umm i honestly cant remember the design. but you might be able to figure it out from the photo.
Hello! Is this project opensource? I would like to build one!
strictly speaking no but i have uploaded code to my github... reluctantly... a few ppl asked but its not really laid out for public consumption, and theres very little support i can offer outside the basics right now... Its also a high risk dangerous project dur to the high voltage. But if youre skilled enough and up for the task... github.com/MangyDogUK/ReflowOven but please please please just be safe and be careful with it. If youre unsure about any part of this get help from some one who is skilled with high voltage stuff.
@@MD_Builds I'll take a look and can help you debug, organize, and comment the code if you'd like. If I'm too ungrateful though I guess I could find another Arduino reflow oven project. There's plenty. I can even adapt it to the ESP chips for wifi support. I'm not looking for a free ride, I'm looking for an open source maker project I can help improve and put work into over the winter. You said you had bugs and there's a whole community of us that will help you iron those out. All you gotta do is post the github link.
Theres no need, as far as im concerned im done with the project, its working well enough for my needs.
As for bugs, there might just be some minor UI errors like the real time graph drawing not being quite in sync with the time so the overlay is a little offset...
And there might be some safety code lacking...
Like i say its more a tinkering thing now. And Im too busy with other things than to endlessly do that.
Oh and wheres my gofund me donation from you? You made a big issue about me asking for donations and not providing links.... Well heres the github link. So put your money where your mouth is.....................
I honestly dont care if you do or dont make a donation, its clear from the very outset you had no interest to. Just wanted to make a big fuss about me asking for support.
@Ethan Vandal, that was aimed at you not Goncalo
"Too narrow spark gap between low and high voltage"
"Shockingly close contact between live and the neutral"
Wat? @_@
"Only" 60A feed? That is pretty high already... (Okay, not US high...) Here a normal residence has 1x 40A or 3x 25A.
11:45 That shows nothing that could have tripped the RCD. You can never trip a RCD with just L and N, you need an alternative path.
in the uk 60 is pretty low for a house. Usually 100A is standard.
Also I'm still not really sure how it tripped the RCD. But it did. The path i drew was the only logical possibility.... Outside of that I'm more clueless as to what really triggered it. Like I mention in the video im not a mains expert.... sooooooooo ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
@@MD_Builds Damn, that's a lot of current! Here (Netherlands) you pay a premium for anything more then 1x 40A or 3x 25A. 1x >80A isn't even possible for a consumer. I just have 1x 25A...
About the RCD, like I said you need an alternative path. You can do anything with only L and N without tripping the RCD, only a breaker (or RCBO) or AFCI can trip then. My bet is that you made a connection with your scope or simply touched the chassis with a wire. Or you don't have good isolation between mains and low voltage.
PS Stupid TH-cam does not give me notifications anymore :/
You know that the most common failure mode of a triac-SSR is that it stays closed?
Not off the top of my head, but i never leave it alone.
Part of that problem too, as I've found, is that a lot of the SSR "manufacturers" not only use sub-standard TRIACs, but outright LIE about its specs!
If something says 25 amps (120V here) be sure that anything over 6 amps can fail the TRIAC).
If I donate you, I will get any details about this project,include circuit diagram and Arduino code? Thank you.
Currently no, At least not under any offical capacity, I have how ever been talked into releasing the source code for this project github.com/MangyDogUK/ReflowOven But it really is very much a Use at your own risk thing. Im unable to fully give support at this time, and the code is still some what a mess and not documented....
If you still wish to donate, feel free...
I will look into making patreon tiers for access to source code and what not in the future. But I just felt I wouldnt be able to offer the value for money at this time.
@@MD_Builds Thanks for your reply, i had donated you.
That display wont survive heating from inside of oven. It will work for some time but not very long
Its not inside the oven, the oven compartment is insulated with ceramic wool. IN fact during testing i found that section where the display went into stay really rather cool.
##stm32 says hi
Hey where are the codes,and scematic???
I reluctantly released the files here, github.com/MangyDogUK/ReflowOven , but Im not keen on having this one public and may remove it at a later date. Its dangerous and I dont want to encourage people who are not experienced enough to deal with this kind of project. I dont want people hurting themselves.
What the dangerous part.
Please tell
Recently I started to build this reflow oven. So i am make a great distance from the dangerous side
@@tanvirmahmud1048 Its mains power, mains voltages are dangerous. They can kill you. The oven uses high powered components that can also hold a charge inside the mains side capacitors. Those can also kill...
Please be careful .
no github no sharing? ;(
I have released it. Reluctantly. Im not keen on releasing something that might end up catching fire and killing some one D:
@@MD_Builds can't find it ;-(
@@zyghom github.com/MangyDogUK/ReflowOven
I sub to your channel if you tell me what ide you use for code editing and ui design
I literally just said in your last reply. But you seemed to have deleted it, im using sloeber plugin for eclipse for the coding. And Nextions IDE for the display. and various graphics tools for the UI assets.
@@MD_Builds yeah my bad, thanks for the info, I subscribed, I wanna see more :-)
what's with these NX displays ? are they better in some way ? (apart from having a nice IDE)
No they're awful, avoid them if you can. I just had some lying aroud doing nothing...
@@MD_Builds they dont look awfull at all
@@curtisnewton895 They really do, they are theyre now using the cheapest of the cheap LCD panels. Not even decent TN... the viewing angles are awful. Plus how the nextion people run their business is really appalling too... I really dont endorse them. I just used it as a quick cheap option to get this project working. And didnt want to spend money making a custom board.
That blue background on the display at the beginning of the video... is meant to be black. Thats how bad these displays are.
I saw in details Mangy look like beggar for his project
What do you mean?
Asking for a gofundme but not publishing the files so others can build on your work is.... Well, I'd say at best lame.
Quite a shame really. I would happily support your work, if only I could get something instead of just a useless video...
Check the other comments...
Wants gofundme to support him.
Doesn't link arduino code in description.
Nikola Tesla rolls over in his grave.
Wow im a bit shocked at this, I spent weeks to months of my time developing and making something, I then produce a video for peoples education and entertainment for you to view for free, which no monetisation from TH-cam, all in my own time and at times considerable financial cost to myself... And Because I ask for a little support and have not released all my source for free, Im the one in the wrong?
Well guess what, I did release it in a limited sense... All the codes out there but without support or documentation because I didnt want to spend more time developing and fine tuning something so ungrateful people like you can just take it and then complain about how it doesnt work for them because they couldnt take the time to learn the process.
I also wasnt keen on making this project available as its frankly dangerous. I reluctantly released the files for a few people but in truth Im not sure I should have as this has the potential to kill some one if they dont know what theyre doing.
So, really jeez... I am looking ways of selling my designs, but people like you just make me want to pack this whole thing up.
Dude thats a disrespect to this guy, he spent so much time making all this, he didnt want to send the link because you may injur yourself, very disrespectful.
What a wanker
Ethan
You're clearly an idiot, who I doubt capable of anything other then severely injuring yourself or simply complaining "it's too difficult" even if you had full and complete access to every aspect of this design
Maybe try creating something for yourself, putting in this level of work AND taking the time to then cover the process for others on video before you run around acting like a petulant, over entitled child
TLDR; Take you're entitlement for an extremely long walk off the shortest possible plank
@@bezza191 great reply