I guess for safety and if I were soloing, I would disengage the autopilot anytime I am outside of the cockpit/cabin and going above deck since there is a possibility you may fall overboard and the damn thing would keep going without a care....No? Is there some electric device you can carry which would disable the autopilot or would somehow steer the boat (in irons/stall/doldrums/whatever) into your (wrist-worn?) device so you can have a swim at it?
Another great video, would love to see more details of you other projects such as solar, batteries etc also interested to understand costs of the different upgrades youve done? im thinking about getting a 26M but most ive seen are standard with no upgrades cheers from the UK...
Thank you ! I have some « not yet edited » footage of a few projects. I’ll work on that over the winter once I’m done sailing. Until then, did you check my channel. I did post a few videos on all the mods and upgrades, installation of anchor light, ladder, cockpit control and reefing lines… cheers 🥂
Merci pour la vidéo. J’installe justement le même modèle sur le bateau de mon fils. Une simple question: de quel calibre doit-choisir le câblage qui part de la batterie et qui alimente le pilote? Dans le dépliant il mentionne du 8. Est-ce suffisant? …merci
Oui, la consommation ⚡️ est très minime. A moins d’avoir une Longue distance et de devoir considérer le voltage drop, le fil 8 est amplement. Dans mon cas ma batterie alimente une fuse box multiple et de là je feed tout pour avoir des fusibles sur tout les circuits. Je ne recommanderais pas un fil direct de la batterie même avec une fuse en ligne. Trop de risques. Et … si vous êtes comme moi, les chances que vous ajoutez autre chose avec le temps est grande 😂 Bonne chance avec l’installation
Hello , nice setub, i also have boat same size but it is Odin 820. I would like to install the same wheel drive of raymarine but local dealer tells me that wheel drive is not suitable for my boat since it is hydraulic drive. To what extent they are right? What is your system? Regards,
Thanks. I’m far from an expert and don’t know the Odin. But I thought the hydraulic drive would make the steering easier. Not sure why it wouldn’t work. But mine is not Hydraulic so not sure. Get another professional opinion or ask other Odin owner maybe. Good luck.
Great install video! Thanks for the step-by-step. Is your chartplotter integrated with the auto-pilot? Can you set a course and the auto-pilot makes the turns? Also how does the p70 detect the depth? There didn't seem to be any room on your 5-way for a depth sounder connection.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. Yes the chartplotter, wind instrument (i60) and EV100 autopilot P70 display are all interconnected through what Raymarine calls “the backbone” with their proprietary “Seatalk” protocol. So I have a dept and water speed transducer connected to my chart plotter and then you can customize what you want to see on each display.
Hello. When installing the wheel drive (3:39) and selecting the correct grommets; was/is there a set of grommets provided to accommodate for the 10 degree angled wheel spokes?
@@adventuresoftheF.M. i don’t quite remember. But I don’t think the 10 degree angle would affect the grommet efficiency. Best look up the instruction online though
@@polepole9066 The previous owners of my 2006 Mac26M installed the wheel drive with grommets for straight (zero angle spoked wheel) spokes and it caused the bearing assembly to fail within the wheel drive assembly. I replaced the bearing assembly and noticed during my reinstallation process the torque/stress this places on the wheel drive. I have tried to purchase a new wheel with straight spokes (no luck yet). I am now in the process of fabricating plastic adapter wedges to deal with the 10 degree mismatch between the wheel drive and the steering wheel. When I saw your video I thought perhaps the original kit came with multiple grommet options that might solve this issue. All feedback, info and or comments welcomed.
Another question. For the short power line from your fused block to the ACU (the white jacket wire in your video), what size wire did you use? Is that just a red and a black to plus and minus? The ACU has + , - , and ground (three wire ports). Isn't the - (minus) good enough for the ground?
Now I understand that the other ground port is for the RF Ground. You didn't seem to use that in your installation. Does that mean it is optional and only necessary if the system is getting excessive "noise" in the wiring? My boat does not have an RF grounding system to connect it to.
My understanding is a metal boat can be grounded. The way a fibreglass boat like a Mac is grounded is through the Anode on the engine. So my house batt and engine batt share the negative to ground my house electrical to the engine anode. Im definitely no specialist so feel free to confirm with pros or in the manual.
Pole again great video, have you used your autopilot when motoring? If so how does it work? I am taking my 26M on the 6,500 mile great loop and will likely be motoring about 75% of the time. When I have my motor connected to the steering it seems more difficult to turn the wheel.
Thanks. I use it all the time also while motoring. Works very well under 6.5 kn with rudder down and some dagger (12-18 in). If your steering is more difficult with engine connected something is binding it. Check all nuts/bolts. Last resort for long distance you could disconnect the engine with the quick disconnect. Cheers 🍻
Hi, thanks for the vid. The manual has the backbone going from the 5-way connector to the ACU. You have the backbone going to the display/controller. Will it work to run the backbone cable from the 5-way to the sensor/gyro? I'm hoping so, since that backbone cable is longer, which I need for my placement of the gyro.
From what I understand, the backbone (blue wire) is best used between the 2 most distant components or groups of components, regardless what they are. And then you can re-split to 2 or more components (black/white wire) Hope I understood your question right …
@@polepole9066 Okay. Well, I plan to have my sensor/gyro the farthest away from the other components. The ACU will be in a cockpit lazarette near the controller/display which is near the helm (of course), and next to the ACU, a new fused power distribution box like yours. I will run the backbone up to my gyro more towards the center of the boat and lower in the boat. Sounds like you're saying that will work. I'm planning on #8 AWG wire from my main circuit panel toggled circuit breaker to run to the new fused box. What wire did you use?
@@rogerbsailor #8 seems good if you only connect the Autopilot components. I ran a #6 to my secondary fuse panel above the berth, but from there ran the wire provided with the ACU, which I believe is #8. Anyways, no big power draw from the EV100 and chartplotter. Cheers mate
Thank you. Finally someone explained a difficult to understand wiring system. You encountered the same problem I had. The cables provided are too short. Also I can’t understand why the CPU doesn’t adapt to the cable plugs.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed. Good luck with the install. The Pod was 3D printed with a file from a fellow sailor. I mounted it on a Ram Mount with the chart plotter. Cheers.
@@polepole9066thank you, I didn't think of 3d printing a pod. I think I'll do that and order the same mount. Thanks again, appreciate the help, videos and comments. Reach out if you're ever BC bound, we have a fairly active MacGregor club out here with plenty of group sailing and other events.
Hello. It did, but I realized that it needs rudders and a bit of dagger board, and only use it under 6kt. Any faster than that I take control from Morgan and drive her myself
@@chrisproulx5651 I’m sorry I don’t. I was under the impression that the inner hub were all standard. I took it at my local chandlery and there were no different choice as far as the hub
If only this was a cruiser. I watched it anyway as most of what you did applies. Great job.
@@MrJongig thanks. It is likely the same process except the option to keep course based on wind direction. Cheers
Thanks for your video. Very informative. The music is next level annoying though 😂
this is a great install video. thanks a bunch for the work to post it!
Thanks for the encouraging feedback Cheers
Fantastic video thank you very much. I will use this when I put an auto pilot on my 26M
Glad you enjoyed and hope it helps.
Big thanks for posting this detailed install
Thanks for your feedback
great info hope everything goes well just install Evo400 🎉😊
Katain Morgan! Love it !!! Great job !
Thanks Mate
Very nice 👍👍
Thanks
I guess for safety and if I were soloing, I would disengage the autopilot anytime I am outside of the cockpit/cabin and going above deck since there is a possibility you may fall overboard and the damn thing would keep going without a care....No? Is there some electric device you can carry which would disable the autopilot or would somehow steer the boat (in irons/stall/doldrums/whatever) into your (wrist-worn?) device so you can have a swim at it?
@@udmbfckx2916 there is a remote control you can add and wear on yourself.
Another great video, would love to see more details of you other projects such as solar, batteries etc also interested to understand costs of the different upgrades youve done? im thinking about getting a 26M but most ive seen are standard with no upgrades cheers from the UK...
Thank you ! I have some « not yet edited » footage of a few projects. I’ll work on that over the winter once I’m done sailing. Until then, did you check my channel. I did post a few videos on all the mods and upgrades, installation of anchor light, ladder, cockpit control and reefing lines… cheers 🥂
Merci pour la vidéo. J’installe justement le même modèle sur le bateau de mon fils. Une simple question: de quel calibre doit-choisir le câblage qui part de la batterie et qui alimente le pilote? Dans le dépliant il mentionne du 8. Est-ce suffisant? …merci
Oui, la consommation ⚡️ est très minime. A moins d’avoir une Longue distance et de devoir considérer le voltage drop, le fil 8 est amplement.
Dans mon cas ma batterie alimente une fuse box multiple et de là je feed tout pour avoir des fusibles sur tout les circuits. Je ne recommanderais pas un fil direct de la batterie même avec une fuse en ligne. Trop de risques. Et … si vous êtes comme moi, les chances que vous ajoutez autre chose avec le temps est grande 😂 Bonne chance avec l’installation
Hello , nice setub, i also have boat same size but it is Odin 820.
I would like to install the same wheel drive of raymarine but local dealer tells me that wheel drive is not suitable for my boat since it is hydraulic drive. To what extent they are right? What is your system?
Regards,
Thanks. I’m far from an expert and don’t know the Odin. But I thought the hydraulic drive would make the steering easier. Not sure why it wouldn’t work. But mine is not Hydraulic so not sure. Get another professional opinion or ask other Odin owner maybe.
Good luck.
Great install video! Thanks for the step-by-step. Is your chartplotter integrated with the auto-pilot? Can you set a course and the auto-pilot makes the turns? Also how does the p70 detect the depth? There didn't seem to be any room on your 5-way for a depth sounder connection.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. Yes the chartplotter, wind instrument (i60) and EV100 autopilot P70 display are all interconnected through what Raymarine calls “the backbone” with their proprietary “Seatalk” protocol.
So I have a dept and water speed transducer connected to my chart plotter and then you can customize what you want to see on each display.
Hello. When installing the wheel drive (3:39) and selecting the correct grommets; was/is there a set of grommets provided to accommodate for the 10 degree angled wheel spokes?
@@adventuresoftheF.M. i don’t quite remember. But I don’t think the 10 degree angle would affect the grommet efficiency. Best look up the instruction online though
@@polepole9066 The previous owners of my 2006 Mac26M installed the wheel drive with grommets for straight (zero angle spoked wheel) spokes and it caused the bearing assembly to fail within the wheel drive assembly. I replaced the bearing assembly and noticed during my reinstallation process the torque/stress this places on the wheel drive. I have tried to purchase a new wheel with straight spokes (no luck yet). I am now in the process of fabricating plastic adapter wedges to deal with the 10 degree mismatch between the wheel drive and the steering wheel. When I saw your video I thought perhaps the original kit came with multiple grommet options that might solve this issue. All feedback, info and or comments welcomed.
Another question. For the short power line from your fused block to the ACU (the white jacket wire in your video), what size wire did you use? Is that just a red and a black to plus and minus? The ACU has + , - , and ground (three wire ports). Isn't the - (minus) good enough for the ground?
Now I understand that the other ground port is for the RF Ground. You didn't seem to use that in your installation. Does that mean it is optional and only necessary if the system is getting excessive "noise" in the wiring? My boat does not have an RF grounding system to connect it to.
My understanding is a metal boat can be grounded. The way a fibreglass boat like a Mac is grounded is through the Anode on the engine.
So my house batt and engine batt share the negative to ground my house electrical to the engine anode.
Im definitely no specialist so feel free to confirm with pros or in the manual.
It’s marine 16 GA
Pole again great video, have you used your autopilot when motoring? If so how does it work? I am taking my 26M on the 6,500 mile great loop and will likely be motoring about 75% of the time. When I have my motor connected to the steering it seems more difficult to turn the wheel.
Thanks. I use it all the time also while motoring. Works very well under 6.5 kn with rudder down and some dagger (12-18 in). If your steering is more difficult with engine connected something is binding it. Check all nuts/bolts. Last resort for long distance you could disconnect the engine with the quick disconnect. Cheers 🍻
With mine, i have trouble under motor with it weaving left to right.
Hi, thanks for the vid. The manual has the backbone going from the 5-way connector to the ACU. You have the backbone going to the display/controller. Will it work to run the backbone cable from the 5-way to the sensor/gyro? I'm hoping so, since that backbone cable is longer, which I need for my placement of the gyro.
From what I understand, the backbone (blue wire) is best used between the 2 most distant components or groups of components, regardless what they are. And then you can re-split to 2 or more components (black/white wire) Hope I understood your question right …
@@polepole9066 Okay. Well, I plan to have my sensor/gyro the farthest away from the other components. The ACU will be in a cockpit lazarette near the controller/display which is near the helm (of course), and next to the ACU, a new fused power distribution box like yours. I will run the backbone up to my gyro more towards the center of the boat and lower in the boat. Sounds like you're saying that will work. I'm planning on #8 AWG wire from my main circuit panel toggled circuit breaker to run to the new fused box. What wire did you use?
@@rogerbsailor #8 seems good if you only connect the Autopilot components. I ran a #6 to my secondary fuse panel above the berth, but from there ran the wire provided with the ACU, which I believe is #8. Anyways, no big power draw from the EV100 and chartplotter. Cheers mate
Thank you. Finally someone explained a difficult to understand wiring system. You encountered the same problem I had. The cables provided are too short. Also I can’t understand why the CPU doesn’t adapt to the cable plugs.
Andre, where did you get your 18” steering wheel? Thanks
Hello. I bought it at my local Chandlery called Entrepot Marine (Marine depot) here in Quebec Canada.
Is Hydraulic Steering mandatory for this install?
Thanks for your comment. It is not mandatory. Mine doesn’t have it. Cheers
Great video, thank you. I am in the midst of installing on my 26m. Where did you get the pod for the control unit?
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed. Good luck with the install. The Pod was 3D printed with a file from a fellow sailor. I mounted it on a Ram Mount with the chart plotter. Cheers.
@@polepole9066thank you, I didn't think of 3d printing a pod. I think I'll do that and order the same mount. Thanks again, appreciate the help, videos and comments.
Reach out if you're ever BC bound, we have a fairly active MacGregor club out here with plenty of group sailing and other events.
@@ElCapitanoish Nice thank. PS. If you 3D print it make sure to use a quality PETG product to resist UV. Cheers Captain 🥃
@@polepole9066got it all installed and works great under sail, but zig zags terrible under motor power - have you had similar issues with yours?
Hello. It did, but I realized that it needs rudders and a bit of dagger board, and only use it under 6kt. Any faster than that I take control from Morgan and drive her myself
Hi. Great video. Can you tell me what steering wheel you bought? Also what are you using to hold the control head at the helm? Thanks
I see now your reply to my second question. Thanks
Thanks ! I up-sized the wheel to 18 inches. The 15 in is too close to the wheel drive ring and leaves no room for fingers …
Cheers 🥂
@@polepole9066 can you recall what wheel you bought? Many times they don't describe the internal attachment at the hub.
@@chrisproulx5651 I’m sorry I don’t. I was under the impression that the inner hub were all standard. I took it at my local chandlery and there were no different choice as far as the hub
What is it you use to mount the chart plotter and control head on top of the binnacle?
rammount.com/products/ram-109hu