Thank you very much for this great tutorial. My mouse doubliclick problem is fixed using a soldering iron for the very first time. Without you video I would have bought a new mouse.
Take an old toothbrush, 70% alcohol or something similar containing alcohol and thoroughly clean all the contacts on the boards, switches, buttons, solder points, wheel and so on. This really helps and physically replacing parts is the last thing you need to do.
Awesome video. Super detailed and I feel like if I had these tools already I would attempt this repair.... But for now a solder iron and these switches are going to bring me over the cost of a new one from Amazon....
God damn it. I had a logitech mouse that started losing its left click stability. I pulled it apart in Feb 2020 and with a fair bit of annoyance, managed to bend the spring back and get it back together. It fixed the issue for less than a year. With the trouble I had with getting the spring back, I decided to just buy a new mouse in March 2021. Its now only just over 3 years since I got my new mouse for $99AUD (a 502 hero) and the same thing is already happening. I do like the idea of repairing 2% of the components instead of throwing out 100% of them in a wasteful manner. But 2 switches are about 10% of the cost of replacement for a new mouse + plus extra pads. But more importantly for me, I know this will cost me a several hours of my precious free time, cause me plenty of frustration and I may even break something in the process. Buying a new mouse is so much easier. I can't believe 3-4 years is all I get out of logitech mouse and keyboards these days.
I watched your KiCad plug in video and saw this one. Been through the mouse button issue a few times. Last time I used Kailh Red GM 4.0 switches as a replacement, probably from the same discussions you read, and they have worked great. PS: Thanks for the plug in video, I'll be trying a few of those.
Rodico, or Teachers Tack works wonders for that as well, and it is a low to no residue putty for holding things in place. side note, i hate those flux pens for desoldering work, much prefer a cheap gel flux (20g needle on the end for fine control and less waste)
Desoldering needles are a cheap way to desolder though hole components, though I'll normally just do the same as you despite having both desoldering needles and a desoldering gun. I don't know about plumber's putty, but blutack does a passable job.
Hey Thanks. I just replaced the switches. The pads were reusable (removed them with a utility knife) and the old switches were unsoldered with a solder-sucker. One question -- why are there 3 pins on the switches?
Great question! Many electronic switches have 3 pins (lets call them A, B and C) and the switching action lets you change between two different connections. Eg, the open action might connect pins A-B, and then closing the switch forms the connection B-C instead. This is a somewhat redundant feature in PC mice, but these sorts of switches are used in other applications too, where you might want two different active switch states instead of simply open/closed.
If you are doing this kind of repair more often and have a soldering gun at hand, there is easy and fast method to desolder mouse switches. Watch this - th-cam.com/video/kPfwK-DSiC8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much for this great tutorial. My mouse doubliclick problem is fixed using a soldering iron for the very first time. Without you video I would have bought a new mouse.
You can also use TTC Gold 80M.
I used to replace the switches in my mice. Got bored and tired of it. Bought one with optical switches. It fixed my problems with double clicking.
Take an old toothbrush, 70% alcohol or something similar containing alcohol and thoroughly clean all the contacts on the boards, switches, buttons, solder points, wheel and so on. This really helps and physically replacing parts is the last thing you need to do.
Awesome video. Super detailed and I feel like if I had these tools already I would attempt this repair.... But for now a solder iron and these switches are going to bring me over the cost of a new one from Amazon....
It's a tough call sometimes. Unfortunately, sometimes it is just better to buy a new one
God damn it. I had a logitech mouse that started losing its left click stability. I pulled it apart in Feb 2020 and with a fair bit of annoyance, managed to bend the spring back and get it back together. It fixed the issue for less than a year. With the trouble I had with getting the spring back, I decided to just buy a new mouse in March 2021. Its now only just over 3 years since I got my new mouse for $99AUD (a 502 hero) and the same thing is already happening. I do like the idea of repairing 2% of the components instead of throwing out 100% of them in a wasteful manner. But 2 switches are about 10% of the cost of replacement for a new mouse + plus extra pads. But more importantly for me, I know this will cost me a several hours of my precious free time, cause me plenty of frustration and I may even break something in the process.
Buying a new mouse is so much easier. I can't believe 3-4 years is all I get out of logitech mouse and keyboards these days.
I watched your KiCad plug in video and saw this one. Been through the mouse button issue a few times. Last time I used Kailh Red GM 4.0 switches as a replacement, probably from the same discussions you read, and they have worked great.
PS: Thanks for the plug in video, I'll be trying a few of those.
Thanks for the feedback! How do you feel using the Kailh red switches?
@@TerminalCuriosityEE So far I've not had to replace them and its been awhile.
Rodico, or Teachers Tack works wonders for that as well, and it is a low to no residue putty for holding things in place. side note, i hate those flux pens for desoldering work, much prefer a cheap gel flux (20g needle on the end for fine control and less waste)
BTW, to quickly desolder multiple pins at once you can use some thick copper wire and bridge them first.
Desoldering needles are a cheap way to desolder though hole components, though I'll normally just do the same as you despite having both desoldering needles and a desoldering gun.
I don't know about plumber's putty, but blutack does a passable job.
Hey Thanks. I just replaced the switches. The pads were reusable (removed them with a utility knife) and the old switches were unsoldered with a solder-sucker.
One question -- why are there 3 pins on the switches?
Great question! Many electronic switches have 3 pins (lets call them A, B and C) and the switching action lets you change between two different connections. Eg, the open action might connect pins A-B, and then closing the switch forms the connection B-C instead. This is a somewhat redundant feature in PC mice, but these sorts of switches are used in other applications too, where you might want two different active switch states instead of simply open/closed.
If you are doing this kind of repair more often and have a soldering gun at hand, there is easy and fast method to desolder mouse switches. Watch this - th-cam.com/video/kPfwK-DSiC8/w-d-xo.html
Pads are reusable: just use double-sided tape, it costs a pretty penny
i use rubber cement went reapplying skates