I've been told you want to have roughly 1/8" of toe then for 37s or 40s up to a 1/4" of toe. You don't want it set at zero but I forget exactly why.i like to do 1/8" with my 37s. I also use toe plates like yours I think mine are bleepinjeep ones. I would suggest using 2 identical tape measures of decent quality I have a couple milwaukee tape measures I keep with my toe plates. A lot of cheap and different brand tape measures can be off a bit.
Some toe in improves tracking, but it is unnecessary. Honestly to biggest purpose of being slightly toe in is it means you are not toe out which will degrade handling and wear tires. On a truck your unlikely to notice any difference if you're zero or 1/8 toe in.
I've been doing my own alignments since my first XJ 20 years ago with string and tape measure, always Rd 1/8 toe in seems to work great. Been to the PNW and back several times. Always got good wear out of my 33s.
It seems like 1/8th is the consensus on the toe so I’ll have to do some adjustments and I’m glad everybody is throwing this info out for other XJ owners that might watch this video! 😊
Great video. Best to have the front slightly less than the rear since as you drive the road force will spread the leading edge apart. If you check you manufacture spec, it probally recommends some tie in.
Great video. I'm considering a set of toe plates and this video sold me on them. My only criticism is not having the correct torque. Saying to put it on as tight as possible is an open ended problem. Somebody using a three foot breaker bar like on a 3/4 inch drive would likely snap the nut off. On the other hand someone with a 3/8 inch breaker bar and not of large stature will have it too loose. Always for your safety and your loved ones use a torque wrench with the correct torque for your hardware. I've been wrenching for over fifty years. Safety first!
I appreciate the feedback. I usually give the torque spec needed but Cavfab doesn’t provide a torque spec for their tie rod so I wasn’t sure what to torque it to. And I agree safety is always first!!
It needs to be in perfect alignment with the vehicle if it's up or down either side the measurement is out Maybe a spirit level on the underside of the vehicle and the tool at the same time and get them the same
Shouldn't the weight of the vehicle be on the chassis to do the alignment? Because when you put the tires back on and put it on the ground, that little bit the suspension goes down changes the geometry. Right? Or when I do mine maybe I can put the jack stand right under the lower ball joint.
I'm guessing the tie rod torque should be around 75 lb ft. Over tighten bolts can be just as dangerous as loose bolts. Stretching the bolts/threads, which could lead to failure.
100% over tight is possibly worse. A quick search on line will tell you what the torque is for a given fastener size and grade. IE a grade 8, 5/8" dia, 11 TPI bolt torque spec --- dry/not lubed is 212 ft lbs I printed these charts out and hung them in my shop for quick ref.
The feathering is actually because you have a bad shock. The toe will prematurely wear the tire on the inter or outer side of the tires. Another thing did you center your steering wheel first?
Not directly under the ball joints but there were close. I didn’t check the tape variance between the two I used but The tape measure difference was brought up in a different comment and it’s a good idea. Get two of the same brand tape measure for sure
it is a solid axle, how would jack stand location cause a variance? Ride height IS very important to have when setting any alignment. I see people with the tape measure concern and I say. Measure anything with a good clean edge (A work bench, a ruler etc.)and put a mark at a given distance, say 12 inches. Now repeat with the second tape and check for accuracy. Obviously the two marks should be identical to get an accurate toe.
That’s good information! I should have done more research on that but from everything I’ve been looking up is that’s correct info. At least 1/8 toe in 😬 I’ll need to get back under the jeep and do some adjusting…
When you have the whole front end on jack stands and both tires off, I noticed that only one side of the vehicle is worked on while doing this alignment. My question is, does this align both sides or do you have to go to the other side and adjust as well?
How does this align the front wheels to the back wheels it doesn’t you have a straight axle in the back on this vehicle at least as far as your steering wheel being straight, these tools are just that tools. You have to know how to use them. You would want to start with your steering wheel straight with a steering lock not the lock with the key a tool that holds the wheel straight while you make the adjustment on your steering arm, the name of which is slipping my mind at the moment
It doesn’t matter which side you adjust, just try to have the same amount of exposed thread on each tie rod end so they’re both equally engaged thread wise
You should put them in the forum or a video about Aligning a Honda that’s where you should put them. This is a jeep with a straight axle. You have independent. I don’t mean to be rude, but that would be like someone asking. Hey, what’s the gap on the spark plugs for a Toyota Camry in a video about aligning a straight axle using a tool
Okay I have a question for you how do you know that your will are not turned at an angle when you're adjusting this you can get the wheels at the same do you know they're not pointing a direction when doing it
You have to form your question in an understandable format. I assume you’re talking about your steering wheel? You’re steering wheel adjustment or alignment is another part. That’s so long as you are in the ballpark you can straighten your steering wheel to match what you’ve done with these alignment plates.
I've got some strut channel I'm going to mark up to get equal measurements. Paying for some scrap angle iron ain't for me. If that don't work I've got lasers and squares. Measure mark and layout is my middle name. What are the odds of that?
So let me get this straight? You have lasers? Are you telling me that you have freaking sharks with Fricking laserbeam‘s attach the fricking heads? Is that what you’re telling us cause that’s awesome
Dimensionally speaking, I think that's a good idea. The longer the tool, the greater the error. I think taking the measurement at the radius equivalent of the tire to be ran is ideal. I mean as next to ideal as measuring electronically in degrees anyway
@@heavymetaloff-road I have been trying to find a definitive answer on this. In theory if your running a 35, then 17 1/2" from the hub center would be "the spot" to measure. I don't know if "error" is correct. maybe more like the longer the greater the accuracy. I am not sure "YET" LOL. my research continues.
Camber has to also be adjusted with special upper ball joints that have an eccentric insert. Caster can be adjusted with those same ball joints or adjustable control arms. Depending on the vehicle the stock control arms may have eccentric mounting bolts allowing for some amount of castor adjustment. It also changes the pinion angle where the earlier mentioned ball joints do not.
Most modern cars have no ability to adjust caster. Camber could also be permanently fixed and only adjustable with shims or be adjusted by an eccentric bolt like those on struts.
That wheel alignment tool would need to be in perfect alignment with the body of the vehicle or the suspension If it was slightly up or down it would make the measurement out So is not possible for it to work I was just about to buy this 😱
Yeah, it’s probably better that you don’t buy this tool with a comment like that I think maybe you should go buy a body alignment tool and then a suspension alignment tool a steering wheel alignment tool and a bottle of magic fuel injector cleaner and you’ll be all set
I've been told you want to have roughly 1/8" of toe then for 37s or 40s up to a 1/4" of toe. You don't want it set at zero but I forget exactly why.i like to do 1/8" with my 37s. I also use toe plates like yours I think mine are bleepinjeep ones. I would suggest using 2 identical tape measures of decent quality I have a couple milwaukee tape measures I keep with my toe plates. A lot of cheap and different brand tape measures can be off a bit.
This is all great info 😎 I’ll need to fix my toe and I’ll pin this comment up for our fellow XJ owners!
It’s because of the 4wd naturally pulling the tires outward when driving. It’s basically an offset measurement.
Some toe in improves tracking, but it is unnecessary. Honestly to biggest purpose of being slightly toe in is it means you are not toe out which will degrade handling and wear tires. On a truck your unlikely to notice any difference if you're zero or 1/8 toe in.
I've been doing my own alignments since my first XJ 20 years ago with string and tape measure, always Rd 1/8 toe in seems to work great. Been to the PNW and back several times. Always got good wear out of my 33s.
It seems like 1/8th is the consensus on the toe so I’ll have to do some adjustments and I’m glad everybody is throwing this info out for other XJ owners that might watch this video! 😊
Nice easy explanation of this process. I actually just bought this kit from TMR and will be performing this alignment today! Thanks for a great video!
No problem thanks for watching! 😎
Awesome man i was waiting on this one. Looks like a really really handy tool
I hurried to get this one out for ya 😎 I think the tool is definitely worth it!
Great video. Best to have the front slightly less than the rear since as you drive the road force will spread the leading edge apart. If you check you manufacture spec, it probally recommends some tie in.
Great video. I'm considering a set of toe plates and this video sold me on them. My only criticism is not having the correct torque. Saying to put it on as tight as possible is an open ended problem. Somebody using a three foot breaker bar like on a 3/4 inch drive would likely snap the nut off. On the other hand someone with a 3/8 inch breaker bar and not of large stature will have it too loose. Always for your safety and your loved ones use a torque wrench with the correct torque for your hardware. I've been wrenching for over fifty years. Safety first!
I appreciate the feedback. I usually give the torque spec needed but Cavfab doesn’t provide a torque spec for their tie rod so I wasn’t sure what to torque it to. And I agree safety is always first!!
It needs to be in perfect alignment with the vehicle if it's up or down either side the measurement is out
Maybe a spirit level on the underside of the vehicle and the tool at the same time and get them the same
Putting it on as tight as possible is what causes an alignment to be $400 when you take it to an actual shop
I have a similar pair of these from another brand, very much worth the money!
I’m glad you agree 😎👍
Thank you for a very helpful video.
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Shouldn't the weight of the vehicle be on the chassis to do the alignment? Because when you put the tires back on and put it on the ground, that little bit the suspension goes down changes the geometry. Right? Or when I do mine maybe I can put the jack stand right under the lower ball joint.
Yes, the weight of the vehicle does need to be on the hub. But this would help get you in the ballpark.
thanks for the vid! did you have to use a steering wheel holder? how did you keep the steering wheel from traveling?
No problem! I kind of jammed a 2X4 from the floorboard to the bottom of the wheel 😅😂
It's 60$ here at the shop in ARKANSAS. That's crazy over 100$
I'm guessing the tie rod torque should be around 75 lb ft. Over tighten bolts can be just as dangerous as loose bolts. Stretching the bolts/threads, which could lead to failure.
That’s good to know! I never thought about that 🤔 thanks for watching
100% over tight is possibly worse.
A quick search on line will tell you what the torque is for a given fastener size and grade. IE a grade 8, 5/8" dia, 11 TPI bolt torque spec --- dry/not lubed is 212 ft lbs
I printed these charts out and hung them in my shop for quick ref.
The feathering is actually because you have a bad shock. The toe will prematurely wear the tire on the inter or outer side of the tires. Another thing did you center your steering wheel first?
Nope. Bad shocks will cause cupping in tires. Feathering is from toe not being in specs
Great video, never seen that done,that's sweet to be able to do that in your own drive way.
I appreciate it man thanks for watching! $60 is cheap! It’s easily over a $100 around me 😅
Questions: Where did you put those jack stands, directly under the ball joints? Did you check that there is no variance between the tapes?
Not directly under the ball joints but there were close. I didn’t check the tape variance between the two I used but The tape measure difference was brought up in a different comment and it’s a good idea. Get two of the same brand tape measure for sure
it is a solid axle, how would jack stand location cause a variance?
Ride height IS very important to have when setting any alignment.
I see people with the tape measure concern and I say. Measure anything with a good clean edge (A work bench, a ruler etc.)and put a mark at a given distance, say 12 inches. Now repeat with the second tape and check for accuracy. Obviously the two marks should be identical to get an accurate toe.
I have been told in the past the you want to have between 1/8 to 3/16 toe in when doing your adjustments. What are your thoughts?
That’s good information! I should have done more research on that but from everything I’ve been looking up is that’s correct info. At least 1/8 toe in 😬 I’ll need to get back under the jeep and do some adjusting…
Always remember zero alignment causes excessive sway when the wind blows or if another vehicle passes you.
So what would you recommend? A tiny bit of toe out or in?
@@2AOverlandtoe should always be 0
When you have the whole front end on jack stands and both tires off, I noticed that only one side of the vehicle is worked on while doing this alignment. My question is, does this align both sides or do you have to go to the other side and adjust as well?
Read the comments, the questions already answered
What about locking your steering wheel straight? Do you have to do this with this tool?
Nope! When you have the wheels on the ground I’d adjust the drag link to straighten the wheel out
They only have that on steering boxes don't they
No
How does this align the front wheels to the rear wheels and make the steering wheel straight?
How does this align the front wheels to the back wheels it doesn’t you have a straight axle in the back on this vehicle at least as far as your steering wheel being straight, these tools are just that tools. You have to know how to use them. You would want to start with your steering wheel straight with a steering lock not the lock with the key a tool that holds the wheel straight while you make the adjustment on your steering arm, the name of which is slipping my mind at the moment
When you have an inch difference between the two tape measurements, you adjust the driver side or passenger side of the tie rod?
It doesn’t matter which side you adjust, just try to have the same amount of exposed thread on each tie rod end so they’re both equally engaged thread wise
@@2AOverland Ok. Thanks for your information. You mean the exposed thread should be equaled when we have the correct toe?
@fredliu8332 no problem I’ll try to help wherever I can and yes that’s what I meant my bad lol
Thanks again for the prompt replies. I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey, where should I put the jack stands?
You should put them in the forum or a video about Aligning a Honda that’s where you should put them. This is a jeep with a straight axle. You have independent. I don’t mean to be rude, but that would be like someone asking. Hey, what’s the gap on the spark plugs for a Toyota Camry in a video about aligning a straight axle using a tool
Okay I have a question for you how do you know that your will are not turned at an angle when you're adjusting this you can get the wheels at the same do you know they're not pointing a direction when doing it
You have to form your question in an understandable format. I assume you’re talking about your steering wheel? You’re steering wheel adjustment or alignment is another part. That’s so long as you are in the ballpark you can straighten your steering wheel to match what you’ve done with these alignment plates.
I've got some strut channel I'm going to mark up to get equal measurements. Paying for some scrap angle iron ain't for me. If that don't work I've got lasers and squares. Measure mark and layout is my middle name. What are the odds of that?
So what you’re saying is you have freaking sharks with fricking laserbeam attached to the fricking heads?
So let me get this straight? You have lasers?
Are you telling me that you have freaking sharks with Fricking laserbeam‘s attach the fricking heads? Is that what you’re telling us cause that’s awesome
Wait, so this is just for the drivers side. Still have to do the passenger side right?
No that should align the whole front since the steering connects the two knuckles
@@2AOverland Oh, nvm I get it. Makes sense.
does it matter that the suspension is hanging unsupported?
No it shouldn’t as long as both sides are unsupported. Having one side supported and the other not could affect it.
Do you think the length of the tool should be the same as your tire height ?
I guess it could be but it shouldn’t matter on height of tool
@@2AOverland I'm referring to using a 35" bar for a 35" tire height.
Dimensionally speaking, I think that's a good idea. The longer the tool, the greater the error. I think taking the measurement at the radius equivalent of the tire to be ran is ideal. I mean as next to ideal as measuring electronically in degrees anyway
If you convert from toe angle, it doesn’t matter. You just have to use the length of the tool, at the tapes as your tire diameter.
@@heavymetaloff-road I have been trying to find a definitive answer on this. In theory if your running a 35, then 17 1/2" from the hub center would be "the spot" to measure. I don't know if "error" is correct. maybe more like the longer the greater the accuracy. I am not sure "YET" LOL. my research continues.
You don’t want an even tow measurement on both sides bubba you want 1/8 toe in. 1/16 on each side. Good rule of thumb atleast
Good call thank you! From using the plates more and more and research you’re 100% right 👌🏼
What about castor/camber?
They won’t work for that but the digital level should work for castor 😊
Camber has to also be adjusted with special upper ball joints that have an eccentric insert. Caster can be adjusted with those same ball joints or adjustable control arms. Depending on the vehicle the stock control arms may have eccentric mounting bolts allowing for some amount of castor adjustment. It also changes the pinion angle where the earlier mentioned ball joints do not.
Most modern cars have no ability to adjust caster. Camber could also be permanently fixed and only adjustable with shims or be adjusted by an eccentric bolt like those on struts.
Harbor Freight Tool tape measures are notoriously inaccurate 😉
🤷🏻♂️ I’ll send it 😂
Can the tmr alignment be used for cars?
I don’t think so
@@2AOverlandthanks for your input.
It can be used for a car if your car has a straight axle
@@timmyl2005 good point.
That wheel alignment tool would need to be in perfect alignment with the body of the vehicle or the suspension
If it was slightly up or down it would make the measurement out
So is not possible for it to work
I was just about to buy this 😱
Yeah, it’s probably better that you don’t buy this tool with a comment like that I think maybe you should go buy a body alignment tool and then a suspension alignment tool a steering wheel alignment tool and a bottle of magic fuel injector cleaner and you’ll be all set
If you make the adjustment on only one side like that your steering wheel will be off center.
44.98 at azon.
No.
awesome
Thanks for watching Maggie 😎 that means a lot to us