tried changing the engine oil by myself,was bit messy as it was for the first time,but did it properly,thnx 4 d video.do upload other videos too for bike maintaineance
Great video. Thank you! I was able to change my oil today thanks to your instruction. Only problem for me was having the wrong filter! I'm from Reno, Nevada and don't have a local dealer. I replaced the original filter, filled with new oil, and reordered the correct filter from Hitchcocks Motorcycles.
tcbnev way to go. just do not run the Bullet too much till your new oil filter has not arrived. As if your old filter is chocked up it can block the oil from reaching the engine.
Thank a lot really man. From next time, i would replace oil myself in my [RE Classic 500 Chrome]. Also in service center they replace oil every 3k Kms, I have two questions man, 1. Do we need to topup every 1k or 1.5k kms once to keep the engine healthy, or how frequent do we need to topup to keep the engine good ? 2. How long once i need to completely drain the oil out and replace with new oil ?
You forgot to tilt your bike left and right while draining the oil. Do that during the next oil change. Some oil is left in the clutch and alternator compartment even when all the drain plugs are opened. Tilting the bike will help getting some of that out; if not all.
This oil had more viscosity and can be used upto 11k kms... Reason being the oil loses viscosity but in 300v the oil viscosity is more as this oil is specially made for the racing kinds... While racing the engine revs which causes the oil to circulate frequently in the higher temperatures.... Just my thought again please lemme know on this
hi bro. how much oil u pour into it? 2500 ml or 2750 ml? and 300V harmful for RE clutch plates? I heard it from too many guys that clutch plates slip because of double Easter technology of that 300v? is it true?
Already subscribed to your channel. Great informative video. Bro, I am too inspired to change the engine on my own looking at the details you shared. But prior changing i need a similar informative video on swtiching from conventional liquid gun to semi synthetic motul 5100. I don't wanna miss any step since changing to a different oil is critical process.
Ravi Jadhav Hi Ravi making a video again on engine oil replacement with engine flush can be difficult. However process is quite simple. Before draining oil pour engine flush liquid into the engine and let it idle for 10 mins. Then drain the oil and follow my video for the rest.
Hello bro is motul 300 v good for classic 500..... can you tell me what are changes you can observe this fully synthetic engine oil.... did you face any problems .... will you tell me
Both sump plugs should be fitted with copper washers to seal them, no goo required. The suction filter may require a fatter O-ring, the original is very thin and prone to dribbling.
Sure Jeff, I have never tried it but it could also be a option for people who do not want to use silicon adhesive. Personally i have never had a reason to complain with silicon adhesive as when applied properly it never leaks or causes problems.
The sump plugs are supposed to have copper washers from new, as is normal for sump plugs on any engine. Some folks substitute Dowty Seals which are more high tech. But as the sump plugs require little torque (or you will strip the threads, steel into alloy), there are supposed to be copper washers there to squish. Bath tub sealant is a poor substitute. Copper washer, drain plug, RE p/n 144846
I ride a 350cc variant. I got the oil changed to Motul 300V. My worry is the oil levels went really low in just 1900km of running! Do you think there is an issue with the engine? No doubt, the performance and refinement has improved many folds.
Saral Gupta Hi saral, lots of reasons for this. Either complete 2.5 litres of oil was not put in the first place or there is a leak in the gasket or there is too much friction in clutch plates leading to burning of oil. The quick process would be 1. top up the required oil and check if it is again going low 2. If it happens again then check for any oil leaks and seal it. 3. Also check while riding if you smell oil burning.
thanks, I will make a note of them. The only thing that is very obvious right now is tht the gear shifts have gone very hard. I have bought the oil today, will replace the oil and look for any visible leakage too. Shall keep you posted!
Check your crankcase for any oil leaks.Tighten all the drain plugs.Check your Exhaust for white smoke (If so,The engine is burning oil with Petrol),Then you have to replace the Head Gasket.
Very useful and detailed video.Can I switch over to Motul Semi synthetic for my 2nd service?Will that be a problem?Also how do we flush the mineral oil fully before changing over to synthetic oil?
Nikhil Menon You can use motul 5100 in semi synth range after the engine is flushed or Switch to motul 300v if your bike's bore is bigger or equal to it's stroke length . Otherwise motul 7100 will be your best bet in full sunth range.
Never open the primary bolt and never remove oil from it, because it is crank chamber oil.if you are draining it, it will damage the crank.it has 500 ml capacity and you need2.5 litre new oil means total three litre.
You are the only person who told that the engine has to be run for at least one minute and recheck the oil level. There are some guys who are filling only 1.8L because the indicator showed full. For my Duke 390, they filled 200ml less, and I had to topup it again after seeing that the engine is becoming hot too quickly.
Suryanarayan Mondal yes you need to let the pump circulate the oil in the engine to get the right level. otherwise you might end up under filling.or over filling the oil.
Hi brother, thank you for a very informative video and I am inspired to do this by myself. I would appreciate it if you can clear my doubt: I have TBTS 350 and have no idea about which type of oil put in by the mechanic. I would like to switch to synthetic oil. What additional steps should I take to do this by myself. someone here mentioned about flushing but I dont know anything about it. Thank you., cheers.
Triple Hunter Hi engine flush is a very simple procedure. Do this before changing from or to any synthetic oil. just buy 3m or any good quality engine flush. pour it in the engine and close the cap. then run the engine for 5-10mins. then follow the procedure for changing oil as shown in the video. thats it.
Awesome video for a newbie like me! Makes it less intimidating to buy the bike. One question, the oil soaked filter goes in as is or do you wipe it clean before installing it?
Hi Vinu I wiped it with a cloth before putting it in as I did not want oil leaking outside on to the silicone sealant as I am closing the oil filter cap.
Hi Vinu I wiped it with a cloth before putting it in as I did not want oil leaking outside on to the silicone sealant as I am closing the oil filter cap.
Hi, You have suggested to do engine flush before switching to the full synthetic oil. Can you tell us how to do or tell us which motor flush you have used to flush. Is there any km limit to do engine flush?
Flush with fresh engine oil. Simply change to the new oil. Change it about 300km or so of riding, you may want to do it twice until the oil shows clean; full synth stays much cleaner looking. I switched to full synth after first service (Mobil 1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil) but note oil spec is still 15W50 JASO MA. The latter (JASO) is very important because the wet plate clutch runs in it, do not use car oil. It is not possible to completely empty the sump, a good 0.5 litre will always remain in there no matter how much tipping you do.
Kishor Kumar Hi engine flush is a very simple procedure. Do this before changing from or to any synthetic oil. just buy 3m or any good quality engine flush. pour it in the engine and close the cap. then run the engine for 5-10mins. then follow the procedure for changing oil as shown in the video. thats it.
hey tushar, for handlebar I prefer the thunderbird handlebar on my standard. extremely comfortable and great turning angle. I find the Bullet standard stock seats quite comfortable, but still looking for better options.
I too was thinking to get the thunderbird handles, glad u vouched. Also want to try out the thunderbird seats on my std if i can find those and they fit easily. Somehow they look really comfy and may sit me a little lower (2-3) inches maybe.
Try the handlebar modification first. It is cheaper and you might not need seat modification after that. Seat mods are typically costlier starting from 3k onwards. Also you can look for seat gels instead in case you need a softer seating.
if your threads are not conpelety ripped you can use some tape on your bolt it will automaticly take shapes and its leak prrof only cost 20 rupees per tape you can go and buy it from the market from any bathroom and kitchen water pipe fitting shop ask them for tape which is used to prevent leaking in you tap faucet... our ask any body who does alminum welding ask weld a bigger bolt on the top of your hole
Hey Ujjwal, This oil is great. Gives much smoother performance and also longer service times. I now change oil every 6000 kms instead of the normal 3000 kms change.
I've used full synth oils for gosh, maybe 40 years, since they were invented. I've found they last much longer than normal and semi-synth oils. When an oil goes filthy black its detergents have been used up and it is time to change it. With the full synth I'm using now (Mobil 1) in the C5 it looks like it would last a full year, it's showing no sign of deteriorating after 2000 miles (3200km), it's still like new after 6 months. Another test is to rub a drop between your fingers, if it feels thin and watery its molecules have been chopped up by the engine and it's past time to change it because its lubrication properties have gone home. Full synth oils do cost a lot more but they do the job better. Otoh you cannot change the oil too often.
I know the name RTV sealant. You should get it at any mechanic shop. It is also called silicone adhesive or gasket maker. If you cannot find it in the, local shop buy it online from here www.amazon.in/ANABOND-GASKET-MAKER-RED-SILICONE/dp/B00S1POOLC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_328_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1TS1CKKHKW6GP0B57795
We generally use bathroom silicone sealant, basically the same stuff only cheaper. However we only use it on the silencer joint, the stuff is heat proof. As I've mentioned before, the correct thing to use are copper washers (e.g. p/n 144846), which should be on the drain plugs from new. They're dirt cheap, easy to fit and work better. The O-rings should be 'greased' with engine oil. The suction cover O-ring groove is 30mm OD, 25mm ID, so it can take a 2.5mm thick O-ring, the original is barely 2mm thick, loose in its groove and does not seal well.
Hey motorman The Ci engines used to have three different places to fill in the engine oil as well. They overcame this complexity in UCE engine, however the three different plugs still remain to drain oil from three different sections of the engine.
The EFI still has two places to insert oil, the oil filler cap and the filler plug, chain case, on the LHS. Ignore the latter when doing an oil change (it's there for if the engine is ever stripped down) but do note that due to various weirs and dams inside no one can ever get all the old oil out by draining. There's usually a good 0.5 - 0.7 litres left inside. Total is 2.75 litres (max). So add 1.75 to 2.0 litres of fresh oil through the main filler, circulate it by running, wait 5 minutes and carefully add oil little by little until it /just shows/ in the glass. Circulate again, remember to wait (tedious) and gradually top up again to between the two marks, not to the top mark, that is the absolute maximum level. It is too easy to fill over the top mark, if that happens drain some out, the suction filter is easiest to control. One must never overfill any engine with oil. Although the EFI is not so prone to it, if you overfill a Bullet engine with oil, it can cause wet sumping, which is bad news. The pumps will suck oil properly when a little over half filled, (you can hear the pumps suck, or not), thus it will happily tolerate being a little under filled. Having said all that, the oil change is not a complicated operation, just methodical and boring. I can't even do the oil on the cars these days, they don't have sump plugs any more so they have to go to the garage.
Baladwish Narendra thanks narendra. I have had similar comments from others as well. Am not used to speaking on camera that is why the voice becomes lifeless. Believe me I am very animated speaker in person 😋. However am taking up this point and will try to better my voice over.
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u deserve a kiss from mia khalifa , thanks for all the information. Rarely u get to see someone mentioning socket sizes and exact quantity of oil.
tried changing the engine oil by myself,was bit messy as it was for the first time,but did it properly,thnx 4 d video.do upload other videos too for bike maintaineance
Good going man! Got too busy, so could not post much of late but am planning to create a few more videos soon so look out for them.
Great video. Thank you! I was able to change my oil today thanks to your instruction. Only problem for me was having the wrong filter! I'm from Reno, Nevada and don't have a local dealer. I replaced the original filter, filled with new oil, and reordered the correct filter from Hitchcocks Motorcycles.
tcbnev way to go. just do not run the Bullet too much till your new oil filter has not arrived. As if your old filter is chocked up it can block the oil from reaching the engine.
Excellent! Thank you very much. I'll be doing the oil change by myself
Best tutorial out there for changing oil....
Keep up the good work...
Bijoy Bhowmick thanks buddy. really appreciate.
No problem man. Good work is always appreciated. 😎✌️
Thank a lot really man.
From next time, i would replace oil myself in my [RE Classic 500 Chrome].
Also in service center they replace oil every 3k Kms,
I have two questions man,
1. Do we need to topup every 1k or 1.5k kms once to keep the engine healthy, or how frequent do we need to topup to keep the engine good ?
2. How long once i need to completely drain the oil out and replace with new oil ?
You forgot to tilt your bike left and right while draining the oil. Do that during the next oil change. Some oil is left in the clutch and alternator compartment even when all the drain plugs are opened. Tilting the bike will help getting some of that out; if not all.
Frank Rock thnks for giving more valuable information
He gave correct advice.
Well explained man. Thanks
This oil had more viscosity and can be used upto 11k kms... Reason being the oil loses viscosity but in 300v the oil viscosity is more as this oil is specially made for the racing kinds... While racing the engine revs which causes the oil to circulate frequently in the higher temperatures.... Just my thought again please lemme know on this
Thank you for this video... I learned a lot.
excellent video brother....thank you
Excellent Job..nice work & Good Oil 300V.👌
hi bro. how much oil u pour into it? 2500 ml or 2750 ml? and 300V harmful for RE clutch plates? I heard it from too many guys that clutch plates slip because of double Easter technology of that 300v? is it true?
is there any performance improvement on using motul 300v ?.can you do video on that
Already subscribed to your channel. Great informative video. Bro, I am too inspired to change the engine on my own looking at the details you shared. But prior changing i need a similar informative video on swtiching from conventional liquid gun to semi synthetic motul 5100. I don't wanna miss any step since changing to a different oil is critical process.
Ravi Jadhav Hi Ravi making a video again on engine oil replacement with engine flush can be difficult. However process is quite simple. Before draining oil pour engine flush liquid into the engine and let it idle for 10 mins. Then drain the oil and follow my video for the rest.
Hello bro is motul 300 v good for classic 500..... can you tell me what are changes you can observe this fully synthetic engine oil.... did you face any problems .... will you tell me
Both sump plugs should be fitted with copper washers to seal them, no goo required. The suction filter may require a fatter O-ring, the original is very thin and prone to dribbling.
Sure Jeff, I have never tried it but it could also be a option for people who do not want to use silicon adhesive. Personally i have never had a reason to complain with silicon adhesive as when applied properly it never leaks or causes problems.
The sump plugs are supposed to have copper washers from new, as is normal for sump plugs on any engine. Some folks substitute Dowty Seals which are more high tech. But as the sump plugs require little torque (or you will strip the threads, steel into alloy), there are supposed to be copper washers there to squish. Bath tub sealant is a poor substitute. Copper washer, drain plug, RE p/n 144846
informative.vid thanks...pls keep the audio louder
Castrol power1 15w/50 is the super best engine oil for any 500cc bullet than any other engine oil
I ride a 350cc variant. I got the oil changed to Motul 300V. My worry is the oil levels went really low in just 1900km of running! Do you think there is an issue with the engine? No doubt, the performance and refinement has improved many folds.
Saral Gupta Hi saral, lots of reasons for this. Either complete 2.5 litres of oil was not put in the first place or there is a leak in the gasket or there is too much friction in clutch plates leading to burning of oil. The quick process would be
1. top up the required oil and check if it is again going low
2. If it happens again then check for any oil leaks and seal it.
3. Also check while riding if you smell oil burning.
thanks, I will make a note of them. The only thing that is very obvious right now is tht the gear shifts have gone very hard. I have bought the oil today, will replace the oil and look for any visible leakage too.
Shall keep you posted!
Check your crankcase for any oil leaks.Tighten all the drain plugs.Check your Exhaust for white smoke (If so,The engine is burning oil with Petrol),Then you have to replace the Head Gasket.
Wanted to ask,How is the smoothness of gear shifting and Engine refinement after using Motul ?
@@MrSaralgupta Does the rear wheel spin freely in gear + clutch pulled in?
informative video man, thanks
Brother avi kaisa hai engine. And jo oil drain kiye kis company ka tha. Any benefit with 300v.
Sir i am from Tamil nadu i using royal enfield classic 350cc BS4 what oil using service 10w50 ro 15w50 mineral oil or synthetic oil tips please bro
very good enformecion
Very useful and detailed video.Can I switch over to Motul Semi synthetic for my 2nd service?Will that be a problem?Also how do we flush the mineral oil fully before changing over to synthetic oil?
Nikhil Menon You can use motul 5100 in semi synth range after the engine is flushed or
Switch to motul 300v if your bike's bore is bigger or equal to it's stroke length .
Otherwise motul 7100 will be your best bet in full sunth range.
VENKATESH AO thanks buddy I will definitely try that after my paid service
sir can i use motul 300v 15w50 on my classic 350 on my first free service my bike is new
same process to Thunderbird 350cc too???
dinesh Kumar more or less. I guess thunderbird 350 is carb with uce too
Enfield Performance thank u
Never open the primary bolt and never remove oil from it, because it is crank chamber oil.if you are draining it, it will damage the crank.it has 500 ml capacity and you need2.5 litre new oil means total three litre.
You are the only person who told that the engine has to be run for at least one minute and recheck the oil level. There are some guys who are filling only 1.8L because the indicator showed full. For my Duke 390, they filled 200ml less, and I had to topup it again after seeing that the engine is becoming hot too quickly.
Suryanarayan Mondal yes you need to let the pump circulate the oil in the engine to get the right level. otherwise you might end up under filling.or over filling the oil.
Hmm. I did not find any video of oil changing of a RE which shows the oil indicator after filling the oil. And they are getting million views.
Suryanarayan Mondal 😊 well in my case I prefer to be safe than sorry. I focus more on thorough instructions and less on marketing my videos.
Hi brother, thank you for a very informative video and I am inspired to do this by myself.
I would appreciate it if you can clear my doubt:
I have TBTS 350 and have no idea about which type of oil put in by the mechanic. I would like to switch to synthetic oil. What additional steps should I take to do this by myself. someone here mentioned about flushing but I dont know anything about it.
Thank you., cheers.
Triple Hunter Hi engine flush is a very simple procedure. Do this before changing from or to any synthetic oil. just buy 3m or any good quality engine flush. pour it in the engine and close the cap. then run the engine for 5-10mins. then follow the procedure for changing oil as shown in the video. thats it.
Enfield Performance thank you for a quick reply. will try this one out :-)
Should we replace the second o-ring while changing the oil filter
Ashish Singh only if it is damaged. otherwise it is reusable.
how many litres of engine oil for classic 500
Hey man great video! I let a shop do a oil change on my bike and they stripped the drain plug threads. Any ideas for a fix?
Shibby Lippy Method 1 : Helicoil. Method 2 : Next size bolt.
Awesome video for a newbie like me! Makes it less intimidating to buy the bike. One question, the oil soaked filter goes in as is or do you wipe it clean before installing it?
Hi Vinu I wiped it with a cloth before putting it in as I did not want oil leaking outside on to the silicone sealant as I am closing the oil filter cap.
Hi Vinu I wiped it with a cloth before putting it in as I did not want oil leaking outside on to the silicone sealant as I am closing the oil filter cap.
Cool and that bit of oil used to soak is totally usable right? Thanks for taking time to reply.
yeah you can put it in engine with the rest.
Hi, You have suggested to do engine flush before switching to the full synthetic oil. Can you tell us how to do or tell us which motor flush you have used to flush. Is there any km limit to do engine flush?
Flush with fresh engine oil. Simply change to the new oil. Change it about 300km or so of riding, you may want to do it twice until the oil shows clean; full synth stays much cleaner looking. I switched to full synth after first service (Mobil 1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil) but note oil spec is still 15W50 JASO MA. The latter (JASO) is very important because the wet plate clutch runs in it, do not use car oil. It is not possible to completely empty the sump, a good 0.5 litre will always remain in there no matter how much tipping you do.
Kishor Kumar Hi engine flush is a very simple procedure. Do this before changing from or to any synthetic oil. just buy 3m or any good quality engine flush. pour it in the engine and close the cap. then run the engine for 5-10mins. then follow the procedure for changing oil as shown in the video. thats it.
Thanks! Very informative.
off topic - Any experience you have with about any seat mods, or handle bar mods?
hey tushar, for handlebar I prefer the thunderbird handlebar on my standard. extremely comfortable and great turning angle. I find the Bullet standard stock seats quite comfortable, but still looking for better options.
I too was thinking to get the thunderbird handles, glad u vouched. Also want to try out the thunderbird seats on my std if i can find those and they fit easily. Somehow they look really comfy and may sit me a little lower (2-3) inches maybe.
Try the handlebar modification first. It is cheaper and you might not need seat modification after that. Seat mods are typically costlier starting from 3k onwards. Also you can look for seat gels instead in case you need a softer seating.
hai I have a doubt...did u refilled the oil after 1day post to the sealent applied...???
aravind Kp yes I waited for a day
what'll be the replacement interval when using fully synthetic oil?
I usually go for 6000 kms
which oil is best for RE, motul 5100 or motul 300V?
bhushan patil Motul 300 v is fully synthetic so longer life. Company claims it has to be changed only every 10000 km however I change it every 6000 km
Hello..while changing oil I have ripped the threads of the secondary drain plug..any suggestions to fix it?
go to a good mechanic. they will bore in a bigger hole in the engine and fix it with adapter.
if your threads are not conpelety ripped you can use some tape on your bolt it will automaticly take shapes and its leak prrof only cost 20 rupees per tape
you can go and buy it from the market from any bathroom and kitchen water pipe fitting shop ask them for tape which is used to prevent leaking in you tap faucet...
our ask any body who does alminum welding ask weld a bigger bolt on the top of your hole
add 2300 ml of engine oil, which is the best qty and bull will never leak. it will settle just at max marking
hey buddy tell me about the performance of this oil
plzz soon
Hey Ujjwal, This oil is great. Gives much smoother performance and also longer service times. I now change oil every 6000 kms instead of the normal 3000 kms change.
I've used full synth oils for gosh, maybe 40 years, since they were invented. I've found they last much longer than normal and semi-synth oils.
When an oil goes filthy black its detergents have been used up and it is time to change it. With the full synth I'm using now (Mobil 1) in the C5 it looks like it would last a full year, it's showing no sign of deteriorating after 2000 miles (3200km), it's still like new after 6 months. Another test is to rub a drop between your fingers, if it feels thin and watery its molecules have been chopped up by the engine and it's past time to change it because its lubrication properties have gone home.
Full synth oils do cost a lot more but they do the job better.
Otoh you cannot change the oil too often.
300v is for racing bikes y for RE
Oil quantity you enter in engine 2 ltr only
CAn we use same oil filter
Sevak Moga please don't. oil filters are not reusable.
Royal enfield wale hindi bolte h aur desi log hote hai
yaar meri classic 350 hai usme starting problem hai kick se
what's the local name of the sealant..
I know the name RTV sealant. You should get it at any mechanic shop. It is also called silicone adhesive or gasket maker. If you cannot find it in the, local shop buy it online from here
www.amazon.in/ANABOND-GASKET-MAKER-RED-SILICONE/dp/B00S1POOLC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_328_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1TS1CKKHKW6GP0B57795
+Enfield Performance Thank you
We generally use bathroom silicone sealant, basically the same stuff only cheaper. However we only use it on the silencer joint, the stuff is heat proof. As I've mentioned before, the correct thing to use are copper washers (e.g. p/n 144846), which should be on the drain plugs from new. They're dirt cheap, easy to fit and work better. The O-rings should be 'greased' with engine oil. The suction cover O-ring groove is 30mm OD, 25mm ID, so it can take a 2.5mm thick O-ring, the original is barely 2mm thick, loose in its groove and does not seal well.
Dude were you stoned while narrating thing? You sound so baked up
Sala Koun Bavkuf Drain Bolts Par Sealing Adhesive Use Karta Hay... Agar Leaking Sa Free Hona Hay To Drain Bolt K Saath Oil Washer Use Kare...
why so many drain plugs?
Hey motorman The Ci engines used to have three different places to fill in the engine oil as well. They overcame this complexity in UCE engine, however the three different plugs still remain to drain oil from three different sections of the engine.
Enfield Performance Thank you for answering..
The EFI still has two places to insert oil, the oil filler cap and the filler plug, chain case, on the LHS. Ignore the latter when doing an oil change (it's there for if the engine is ever stripped down) but do note that due to various weirs and dams inside no one can ever get all the old oil out by draining. There's usually a good 0.5 - 0.7 litres left inside. Total is 2.75 litres (max). So add 1.75 to 2.0 litres of fresh oil through the main filler, circulate it by running, wait 5 minutes and carefully add oil little by little until it /just shows/ in the glass. Circulate again, remember to wait (tedious) and gradually top up again to between the two marks, not to the top mark, that is the absolute maximum level.
It is too easy to fill over the top mark, if that happens drain some out, the suction filter is easiest to control.
One must never overfill any engine with oil. Although the EFI is not so prone to it, if you overfill a Bullet engine with oil, it can cause wet sumping, which is bad news.
The pumps will suck oil properly when a little over half filled, (you can hear the pumps suck, or not), thus it will happily tolerate being a little under filled.
Having said all that, the oil change is not a complicated operation, just methodical and boring. I can't even do the oil on the cars these days, they don't have sump plugs any more so they have to go to the garage.
Two drain plugs, one for gearbox, one for crank case, plus the suction filter cover. Three places in all.
Jeff Slade The carburetor UCE engine is different then?
video making is gud
but background voice is boring
except that its a gud one
Baladwish Narendra thanks narendra. I have had similar comments from others as well. Am not used to speaking on camera that is why the voice becomes lifeless. Believe me I am very animated speaker in person 😋. However am taking up this point and will try to better my voice over.
Bhai hindi bol le tere se English ni boli ja rhii...