The list of perfections of a great video is:- 1) straight forward and to the point. 2) clear examples 3) and ESPECIALLY none of the usual TH-cam faff of playing to the gallery. .......and yours always passes the test. Cheers from the UK.
As always very well done. Just the little "tricks" for random challenges (little blocks to raise the square) are awesome ideas. I'll probably use that numerous times. THANKS Great jig ideas.
Just buy a part sheet of Melamine coated MDF or chipboard from the big store, glue won't stick anywhere on it. Just put a brad nail or screw in the middle of each side, set 90 degrees and use more screws to permanently fasten. Also, if you leave a 4 inch (100mm) gap in the corner you can use the jig to make 'T' joints as well as 'L' joints.
That's some very handy jigs and really nicely explained how to set everything up to make them. Once again I've found your videos very handy - thank you.
These are two great Jigs and the Tips with using these are absolutely great. Thank you for the presentation. I can add some holes to the assembly Jig and with some small Dogs and Wedges, it will serve as a Carving assembly. Well done Colin.
Very handy techniques for blade height - bar off throat plate! - and setting fence - outside of kerf. Thanks for the video. (Lucky is good. Only way I ever seem to get settings exactly right the first time is if I use a test piece.)
I saw a video testing joints and the Bridle joint was sightly stronger BUT not enough not to just go with a half-lap. The 2 by 4 is a great idea! My jig has a 3/4" outside runner and it keeps dropping down in the other miter slot in the top.
keeping a box jointed box square is a challenge for sure, with the tenons sticking out it is impossible to use your "outside square." With clamps it's hard to adjust box for square. I found an "INSIDE SQUARE," right angle at 90˚ fastened to table will solve this problem. Box be adjusted as clamps are added from top and sides. Love your presentations, I have learned so much.
Nice jig! When you do these joints you should always use scrap pieces for test cuts to make sure the depth of the cuts are correct. When making a mailbox post this half lap cut is perfect for making the cross piece that the mailbox sets on. For a 4x4 post you cut about 1-3/4 deep. Again you want to do test pieces if you have enough wood. He's right about this half lap joint being extremely strong. On a 4x4 post it's easier to do this with a circular saw and then finish the cut with a Sawzall. Then glue it and predrill it and use five deck screws to put it together. It's better than the pre-made mailbox posts. Use the end of the post that has never been cut into the ground so it keeps the pressure treated part intact. Also dip the end of the post in deck sealer before putting it into the ground. That keeps the post from ever rotting.
I have a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw I purchased back in the 70's. It's my dedicated half lap saw with a 3/4" dado blade on it. I realize you have to be careful with a ras like any tool with a spinning blade. Works for me.
Just a caveat. Using a measuring bar of a specific size only works if your work piece is the correct thickness. MDF is probably accurate enough, but other lumber probably is not. Since I started using the metric system, measuring and math got a lot easier, too. Really appreciate your teaching style.
Thanks Colin, great tips, wondering if you considered some kind of clear finish on the surface to keep glue from sticking. I am thinking maybe some sort of clear spray that can be refreshed as needed? Just a thought.
I'm trying to learn, but I'm finding different definitions for terms. You seem very experienced. Could you make a video on terms, for eg., dado, rabbet, jig, etc.?
Excellent video with outstanding demonstration, thank you. Allow me one suggestion, turn your sound up. My computer volume is full up, however I struggle hearing you, it is as though your mic is covered or not close to you.
What kind of fabric or material do you have on that vise? Kinda looks like a thin perforated metal sheet, but that wouldn't be flexible or soft enough to protect the material clamped in it, would it? It's driving me crazy trying to figure out what that is.
For the assembly jig, couldn't you use a framing square spaced off of the backer board? Perhaps a 1/4 inch spacer on all mounting points, for dust relief.
You are a prince. Great tip with the paraffin wax. One question, though. Isn’t the cut at 14:00 a bit dangerous? That’s like using a fence and a miter gauge. The off-cut piece is trapped and can kick back, unless I’m mistaken.
How do you work out 3/4 of an inch? Easy, use the metric system haha. Hi from Australia Colin, really enjoy your straight forward video's. Keep them coming
Great info as always. Do you have any videos that show the fence adaption to smaller fence saws? I struggle a lot with jigs that are setup on a big fence...🤘🤘🤘
Making a new assembly jig every time you need a new size has long since been replaced with the much simpler notion of “assembly tables”. Drill a couple 3/4” holes in a nice flat workbench and use bench dogs or straight edge and mft clamps for the fixture.
Instead of a measuring bar, one can use a 3/8" drill bit. And, of course, much/most 3/4" lumber is not exact, so drill bits that come in big sets with 1/64th inch increments give you a lot more choices.
Colin, I've made this request before. PLEASE increase the volume of your videos. The volume of your videos is way below other videos. It should be trivial to boost the volume
Some saws cannot accommodate a dado stack,or they might be outlawed in some countries, e.g. Germany. I would otherwise agree, though. If available, a dado stack is easier.
My phone only showed the title up to the word "half" in my notifications, and I thought for a second that it said "hair." Woodworking Jigs for Making Perfect Hair
FYI You mic is so low, I have to double the volume just to hear you talk. You may want to get a RODE that you can clip to your shirt, closer to your mouth.
The list of perfections of a great video is:-
1) straight forward and to the point.
2) clear examples
3) and ESPECIALLY none of the usual TH-cam faff of playing to the gallery.
.......and yours always passes the test.
Cheers from the UK.
Holy cow! In addition to showing us how to make a lap jig, you showed us how to ACCURATELY set the height on the blade! Thanks Colin!
This gentleman’s stuff does not get the exposure it deserves!
Wow you make it look so simple you are a great teacher thank you sir
As always very well done. Just the little "tricks" for random challenges (little blocks to raise the square) are awesome ideas. I'll probably use that numerous times. THANKS Great jig ideas.
Thanks so much Colin for making great, instructional videos. I always learn something new.
So glad I found your channel! You have so many easy tips that are really easy to digest! I know I'll be using lots of them. Thanks!
God bless you Sr you remind me of my grandfather. I truly miss him.
Built my jig recommended by Colin over a year ago. Works great!
One of my favorites of all your videos. Thanks for some helpful ideas that I will use often!
Just buy a part sheet of Melamine coated MDF or chipboard from the big store, glue won't stick anywhere on it. Just put a brad nail or screw in the middle of each side, set 90 degrees and use more screws to permanently fasten. Also, if you leave a 4 inch (100mm) gap in the corner you can use the jig to make 'T' joints as well as 'L' joints.
That’s a good one with the extra gap.
This is a great jig and I think that you did a good job explaining and illustrating its use.
That's some very handy jigs and really nicely explained how to set everything up to make them. Once again I've found your videos very handy - thank you.
I learn something every time I watch your videos.
Thank You and God Bless.
Clear simple well presented. Great job.
Very interesting, informative video. Couple Very easy jigs to use, explained Very easy
These are two great Jigs and the Tips with using these are absolutely great. Thank you for the presentation. I can add some holes to the assembly Jig and with some small Dogs and Wedges, it will serve as a Carving assembly. Well done Colin.
Excellent video, thank you very much!
Very handy techniques for blade height - bar off throat plate! - and setting fence - outside of kerf. Thanks for the video. (Lucky is good. Only way I ever seem to get settings exactly right the first time is if I use a test piece.)
Oh wow I could use this someday. to join two pices together and make longer boards. thanks Colin ill save this video for sure.
Thank you for all the videos, very solid walkthrough !
I saw a video testing joints and the Bridle joint was sightly stronger BUT not enough not to just go with a half-lap. The 2 by 4 is a great idea! My jig has a 3/4" outside runner and it keeps dropping down in the other miter slot in the top.
I use the assembly jig but I always make sure to run my two piece through the jointer to assure the edges are flat and square. Thanks Colin. JimE
keeping a box jointed box square is a challenge for sure, with the tenons sticking out it is impossible to use your "outside square."
With clamps it's hard to adjust box for square. I found an "INSIDE SQUARE," right angle at 90˚ fastened to table will solve this problem. Box be adjusted as clamps are added from top and sides. Love your presentations, I have learned so much.
Great video. Thanks
Always helpful.
Very useful tips, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
do you have a video showing how you made that cool marking tool......it looks pretty simple.....I'm thinking of making one.....
Nice jig! When you do these joints you should always use scrap pieces for test cuts to make sure the depth of the cuts are correct.
When making a mailbox post this half lap cut is perfect for making the cross piece that the mailbox sets on. For a 4x4 post you cut about 1-3/4 deep. Again you want to do test pieces if you have enough wood. He's right about this half lap joint being extremely strong.
On a 4x4 post it's easier to do this with a circular saw and then finish the cut with a Sawzall. Then glue it and predrill it and use five deck screws to put it together. It's better than the pre-made mailbox posts. Use the end of the post that has never been cut into the ground so it keeps the pressure treated part intact. Also dip the end of the post in deck sealer before putting it into the ground. That keeps the post from ever rotting.
Something on my to do list, thanks!
Great general tips as well.
I use half lap joinery for the custom fence gates I build and doors. Never a failure in 25 years.
I like your channel
Great
It makes me happy to see that I'm not the only one who uses an old mustard jar for a squeeze bottle for glue 😎
Thanks for the video.
I have a Sears Craftsman radial arm saw I purchased back in the 70's. It's my dedicated half lap saw with a 3/4" dado blade on it. I realize you have to be careful with a ras like any tool with a spinning blade. Works for me.
Thank you for the normal face in your thumbnail again! You look so much better this way; without the crazy face. Keep up the good work!
Thank you
Great vid
great video thanks for sharing
Just a caveat. Using a measuring bar of a specific size only works if your work piece is the correct thickness. MDF is probably accurate enough, but other lumber probably is not. Since I started using the metric system, measuring and math got a lot easier, too.
Really appreciate your teaching style.
I use a framing square that I drill a few holes through and then I raise it off the surface of a board using some nuts as spacers.
Thanks Colin, great tips, wondering if you considered some kind of clear finish on the surface to keep glue from sticking. I am thinking maybe some sort of clear spray that can be refreshed as needed? Just a thought.
Sounds great
I'm trying to learn, but I'm finding different definitions for terms. You seem very experienced. Could you make a video on terms, for eg., dado, rabbet, jig, etc.?
Wow, great video. Thanks for the infos, really appreciated.
Excellent video with outstanding demonstration, thank you. Allow me one suggestion, turn your sound up. My computer volume is full up, however I struggle hearing you, it is as though your mic is covered or not close to you.
What kind of fabric or material do you have on that vise? Kinda looks like a thin perforated metal sheet, but that wouldn't be flexible or soft enough to protect the material clamped in it, would it? It's driving me crazy trying to figure out what that is.
For the assembly jig, couldn't you use a framing square spaced off of the backer board? Perhaps a 1/4 inch spacer on all mounting points, for dust relief.
Pretty cool stuff.. Good information.. Would like to see how to make signs with a routor .. The Frye Guy..
You are a prince. Great tip with the paraffin wax. One question, though. Isn’t the cut at 14:00 a bit dangerous? That’s like using a fence and a miter gauge. The off-cut piece is trapped and can kick back, unless I’m mistaken.
How do you work out 3/4 of an inch? Easy, use the metric system haha. Hi from Australia Colin, really enjoy your straight forward video's. Keep them coming
Jigs, once you use one, you'll always want one ..........................thanks
Great info as always. Do you have any videos that show the fence adaption to smaller fence saws? I struggle a lot with jigs that are setup on a big fence...🤘🤘🤘
Making a new assembly jig every time you need a new size has long since been replaced with the much simpler notion of “assembly tables”. Drill a couple 3/4” holes in a nice flat workbench and use bench dogs or straight edge and mft clamps for the fixture.
How to setup the lap joint if the thickness os not exactly 3/4?
Instead of a measuring bar, one can use a 3/8" drill bit. And, of course, much/most 3/4" lumber is not exact, so drill bits that come in big sets with 1/64th inch increments give you a lot more choices.
How do you make a lap joint without a table saw?
Regarding the Perfect Half Lap Joints, do you think it is possible to have them with 45 degrees angle?
Great idea to use wax to keep the glue off the MDF and plywood.
Or run a strip of packing tape along the edges.
Colin, I've made this request before. PLEASE increase the volume of your videos. The volume of your videos is way below other videos. It should be trivial to boost the volume
Wouldn’t a dado blade be quicker for doing the cut outs on a lap joint? Only one set up on the saw and much easier if a piece was 6 or 7 feet long.
Some saws cannot accommodate a dado stack,or they might be outlawed in some countries, e.g. Germany. I would otherwise agree, though. If available, a dado stack is easier.
My phone only showed the title up to the word "half" in my notifications, and I thought for a second that it said "hair." Woodworking Jigs for Making Perfect Hair
I'll buy some measuring bars.
I have a set of iGaging setup bars that include a 1 x 2 x 3 block as well. Extremely helpful. Use them everyday and they are always on my bench.
Can you plz talk louder I can barely hear you love your content alot keep it up
Audio level is much lower than most other TH-cam videos.
Uhm.... why not mount an aluminum 90°angle on a piece of Melamine?
Perfect corner, glue won't stick.
HIHALOOOO
FYI You mic is so low, I have to double the volume just to hear you talk. You may want to get a RODE that you can clip to your shirt, closer to your mouth.
Way too much talk, not enough show.