yoooo! thanks for this tutorial, i plan on millmaxing a cheapo redragon board that i have. millmax sockets are a bit too expensive and i learned that rivets can be used. such a useful tip to clamp the rivets to make it tighter, thanks!
I did exactly the same to my brand new pcb and now I get double presses on my keystrokes randomly all over the switches, sometimes also keystrokes are not recognized. The problem was not possible to identify until I started using my keyboard extensively. I tried to solder rivets ideally, so I think using rivets is quite a risky method, maybe rivets that I bought are made of poor quality raw materials, or something like that, but using them surely provides problems with contacts between the pcb and switches.
hmm 🤔, in my experience I don't think that's because of the rivets, have you tested the PCB first before adding the switches? usually, I did the MCU part first, but if the board already came with MCU on board you could just plug in the power and test the PCB using a tweezer
Double keystrokes hmm, have you tried delubing your key switches? Could be the factory over-lubricated them. That or possibly a defective diode. But I don't think the rivets are the issue because they can only really explain why youre not getting responses from some keys resulting from a bad connection with the switch pins, or PCB through holes. Which could explain your second part? Or it's the first part, and aggregate failure caused the second portion.
I just researching to make this mode on mine. So didn't try yet. But this just pass through my mind. If you live in a plate with high humidity, it may have some oxidation. Look if your rivets are little green. And another ideia, apply just a little bit of solder in the switch pins. As it is a little more soft, may help with contact. I know it's a year late, but maybe it you help someone.
Quite late to the party, i mistakenly bought 1.5 and they were too big. Tried the squeeze the switch while pin is inside method but oddly enough it doesnt contact well on the switch pins. How's the board after a few months? is squeezing the 1.3 rivets to the pins reliable to change switches randomly/anytime freely like a hitswap board or do you still have to bend the switch a bit etc.?
I think 1.5 is quite big, even tho the squeeze not helping since it leaves a lot of space around the pin leg, I forgot to mention that while adjusting/squeezing all the rivets I use the same switch, if you take a look closer to the switch pin it's not actually flat but it's a bit concave, so when you squeeze along with the rivets it's going to flatten the pin, so yeah I use that same switch for all the rivets, and then when you insert the switch pin that hasn't been flattened it will give more traction
@@kennshakeman6458 what kind of rivets you bought, did you get the copper one? Have you tested with a multimeter? if you squeeze correctly and soldered it right, it shouldn't be a problem
@@khalidity Im planning to get the 1.3s in m experience all the 1.5s worked as long as there were contact, hoping that 1.3s will work great, thanks man
Contranya masih aman om sampai sekarang? Niat mau rivet di fc660m karna ada bbrp key yg jalurnya mati dan jumper, takut ngerusak pad soalnya kalau bolak balik solder
Ah I'm sorry I bought the rivets at my local store, but this can easily find on AliEx just search for rivets, it's an M1.3 diameter with a 3.5 mm length
Not sure if you will still notice this comment but I'll ask a question anyway hoping for a reply. I got a budget mechanical keyboard that I love so much and got it with a discount so I got it for like $8. I has a knob, light indicators, backlight, etc. But my only problem with it is not being hot swappable. Do you still have this board? Did it perform well on a long run? Wanted to try millmax but is was too expensive. This is an 84 keys keyboard so I will be needing a lot. But brass rivets M1 3x3.5, it will only cost me a dollar for 200pcs so I want to try it but having second thoughts. So how was its performance di you experienced any unusual?
Hmm, I'm not sure about the brass rivets, I guess I'm using the copper kind of rivets, yes I'm still using the keyboard but sometimes, in fact, I've been using the keyboard till last week, so yeah, nothing has gone wrong
Hi thx for asking, I forgot to mention the size of the rivet, and Yes I bought it from a local electronic store, but these rivets can be easily found on AliExpress, I use the M1.3 diameter with a 3.5mm length
@@qiyyfla udah nemu wkwk ane nyarinya rivet ga nemu2 ternyata keywordnya hotswap. 1rb perpasang lumayan dah. skrg ada juga yg pake modul hotswap 1500 an tp boardnya khusus yg hotswap. sesuaikan kebutuhan aja si bg
Mill-max are precision made. If you look inside the hole you will see that they have contact pads that ensure proper connection.Also MillMax uses proper materials for proper electrical contact (unlike rivets).
Millmax is meant to be used for switch pins specifically, and since it's gaining popularity the price also going up, in the other hand rivets has many uses but are commonly used in household, just make sure you get the copper one
@@khalidity Its not pricier because of "popularity" its pricier because it is a lot more expensive to make than cheap rivets. I work in manufacturing I can tell you there is a huge difference between both. I wouldn't put rivets on an expensive board, no way.
I think I gonna try on my spare mouse. I didn't buy the rivets, so it will take some time, around 30 days. If I don't forgot, I will come back to answer.
So the rivets arived pretty early and the answer is: I don't know if it's possible with mouse switchs because they're a little bit smaller than the hole in keyboard. So the keyboard rivets aren't compatible with mouse. The rivet I bought was the M1.3 - 3.5mm, the smaller are 0.9 and I belive the mouse hole is around 1.1 or 1.2. This message was typed in my rivet modded keyboard and feels so nice to have my first mechanical keyboard with custom parts, and since the layout of my country is different it was a necessary thing to do. Personally would not recommend to clamping 1:40 the rivets, but bend the pins on switchs a little bit to make contact. If needed to remove the rivets, the clamped ones will make it harder to do. But it may vary from keyboard to keyboard, mine has the mount plate in aluminium, then it's more rigid to maintain good contact with the board.
I was wondering if an alternative to millmax is possible! It's rivets! Thank you. However rivets are usually made from iron or steel. And steel corrods.
@@khalidity this is a very old comment, but I’m going to reply anyways 😂. Copper doesn’t rust like iron, but it does form a patina layer. Doing some cursory google searches it looks like it’s nothing really to worry about? I’m not sure.
masalah gimana? kan gitu doang, klo switchnya ga response, ya paling salah rivet, cari yg kuning copper/tembaga, ato gak nyoldernya ga bagus, ato gak waktu dijepit pake tangnya itu kurang rapet
Damn, i've been looking that thing for days, i don't know the name for it, my switch pin got stucked on pcb so i need to desolder it, and change the socket, but the problem is, i've already bought milmax socket lol
Great music, great unique topic. keep it up!!
yoooo! thanks for this tutorial, i plan on millmaxing a cheapo redragon board that i have. millmax sockets are a bit too expensive and i learned that rivets can be used. such a useful tip to clamp the rivets to make it tighter, thanks!
also, do you think 0.9 rivets would still fit switches?
I'm using M1.3 size, and it's 3.5mm long
what is the size of rivet?
I did exactly the same to my brand new pcb and now I get double presses on my keystrokes randomly all over the switches, sometimes also keystrokes are not recognized. The problem was not possible to identify until I started using my keyboard extensively. I tried to solder rivets ideally, so I think using rivets is quite a risky method, maybe rivets that I bought are made of poor quality raw materials, or something like that, but using them surely provides problems with contacts between the pcb and switches.
hmm 🤔, in my experience I don't think that's because of the rivets, have you tested the PCB first before adding the switches? usually, I did the MCU part first, but if the board already came with MCU on board you could just plug in the power and test the PCB using a tweezer
Double keystrokes hmm, have you tried delubing your key switches? Could be the factory over-lubricated them. That or possibly a defective diode. But I don't think the rivets are the issue because they can only really explain why youre not getting responses from some keys resulting from a bad connection with the switch pins, or PCB through holes. Which could explain your second part? Or it's the first part, and aggregate failure caused the second portion.
I just researching to make this mode on mine. So didn't try yet. But this just pass through my mind.
If you live in a plate with high humidity, it may have some oxidation. Look if your rivets are little green.
And another ideia, apply just a little bit of solder in the switch pins. As it is a little more soft, may help with contact.
I know it's a year late, but maybe it you help someone.
What size of Revit you used sir this is very informative sir.
Quite late to the party, i mistakenly bought 1.5 and they were too big. Tried the squeeze the switch while pin is inside method but oddly enough it doesnt contact well on the switch pins.
How's the board after a few months? is squeezing the 1.3 rivets to the pins reliable to change switches randomly/anytime freely like a hitswap board or do you still have to bend the switch a bit etc.?
I think 1.5 is quite big, even tho the squeeze not helping since it leaves a lot of space around the pin leg, I forgot to mention that while adjusting/squeezing all the rivets I use the same switch, if you take a look closer to the switch pin it's not actually flat but it's a bit concave, so when you squeeze along with the rivets it's going to flatten the pin, so yeah I use that same switch for all the rivets, and then when you insert the switch pin that hasn't been flattened it will give more traction
@@khalidity have you encountered any problems where pins dont make contact?
I appreciate the reply thanks man!
@@kennshakeman6458 what kind of rivets you bought, did you get the copper one? Have you tested with a multimeter? if you squeeze correctly and soldered it right, it shouldn't be a problem
@@khalidity Im planning to get the 1.3s in m experience all the 1.5s worked as long as there were contact, hoping that 1.3s will work great, thanks man
I wish I saw your comment soon
😢😢😢
You can also coat it with nickel and brass, or copper via electrolysis
what should be the dimensions of the rivets so that they are compatible with all mx style switches, like gateron, cherry, akko, ktt, outemu, etc.
I'm using M1.3 size, and it's 3.5mm long
kalo boleh tau beli rivetnya di toko apa ya
Contranya masih aman om sampai sekarang? Niat mau rivet di fc660m karna ada bbrp key yg jalurnya mati dan jumper, takut ngerusak pad soalnya kalau bolak balik solder
aman kok, masih sering dipake soalnya kibord nya
Very nice. Any chance you have a link to the rivets, or measurements specs so I can make sure to find the right size?
Ah I'm sorry I bought the rivets at my local store, but this can easily find on AliEx just search for rivets, it's an M1.3 diameter with a 3.5 mm length
Not sure if you will still notice this comment but I'll ask a question anyway hoping for a reply. I got a budget mechanical keyboard that I love so much and got it with a discount so I got it for like $8. I has a knob, light indicators, backlight, etc. But my only problem with it is not being hot swappable. Do you still have this board? Did it perform well on a long run? Wanted to try millmax but is was too expensive. This is an 84 keys keyboard so I will be needing a lot. But brass rivets M1 3x3.5, it will only cost me a dollar for 200pcs so I want to try it but having second thoughts. So how was its performance di you experienced any unusual?
Hmm, I'm not sure about the brass rivets, I guess I'm using the copper kind of rivets, yes I'm still using the keyboard but sometimes, in fact, I've been using the keyboard till last week, so yeah, nothing has gone wrong
Where do you buy those kinds of rivets? Can I also ask if what's the size of the rivets to that you used?
Hi thx for asking, I forgot to mention the size of the rivet, and Yes I bought it from a local electronic store, but these rivets can be easily found on AliExpress, I use the M1.3 diameter with a 3.5mm length
@@khalidity Thank you
how close to the PCB do the switches lay compared to 7305 or 0305 mill max sockets?
Did you mean how close to the bottom? It's quite short I think, and still has a lot of space
So why is solder still needed? To hold & connect the Rivet? While rivet becomes the hot swap "tube" for the Switch Pin?
Yep, need solder to connect with the PCB and also to hold the rivet stay put on the PCB
thx infonya bang. ada alternatif lain nggak? ga nemu nih di online yg ukuran segitu rivetnya
langsung solder ae lah bang ribet jg keliatanny wkwk soket milmax mahal jg perpasang 9k bisa brp ratus ribu sendiri itu
@@qiyyfla udah nemu wkwk ane nyarinya rivet ga nemu2 ternyata keywordnya hotswap. 1rb perpasang lumayan dah. skrg ada juga yg pake modul hotswap 1500 an tp boardnya khusus yg hotswap. sesuaikan kebutuhan aja si bg
Hello. May I know what's the different between Revets and MillMax? Millmax so expensive its like a scam.
Mill-max are precision made. If you look inside the hole you will see that they have contact pads that ensure proper connection.Also MillMax uses proper materials for proper electrical contact (unlike rivets).
Millmax is meant to be used for switch pins specifically, and since it's gaining popularity the price also going up, in the other hand rivets has many uses but are commonly used in household, just make sure you get the copper one
@@khalidity Its not pricier because of "popularity" its pricier because it is a lot more expensive to make than cheap rivets. I work in manufacturing I can tell you there is a huge difference between both. I wouldn't put rivets on an expensive board, no way.
can this be used for mouse switches?
I think I gonna try on my spare mouse. I didn't buy the rivets, so it will take some time, around 30 days. If I don't forgot, I will come back to answer.
So the rivets arived pretty early and the answer is: I don't know if it's possible with mouse switchs because they're a little bit smaller than the hole in keyboard. So the keyboard rivets aren't compatible with mouse.
The rivet I bought was the M1.3 - 3.5mm, the smaller are 0.9 and I belive the mouse hole is around 1.1 or 1.2.
This message was typed in my rivet modded keyboard and feels so nice to have my first mechanical keyboard with custom parts, and since the layout of my country is different it was a necessary thing to do. Personally would not recommend to clamping 1:40 the rivets, but bend the pins on switchs a little bit to make contact. If needed to remove the rivets, the clamped ones will make it harder to do. But it may vary from keyboard to keyboard, mine has the mount plate in aluminium, then it's more rigid to maintain good contact with the board.
@@DerliFontoura thank you for the follow up
I was wondering if an alternative to millmax is possible! It's rivets! Thank you.
However rivets are usually made from iron or steel. And steel corrods.
I think I'm using the copper one, I don't know if copper going to rust or maybe not 🤔
@@khalidity this is a very old comment, but I’m going to reply anyways 😂. Copper doesn’t rust like iron, but it does form a patina layer. Doing some cursory google searches it looks like it’s nothing really to worry about? I’m not sure.
don't cheap out. If you're going to go for a custom keyboard go for mill-max. I'd go for 7305 if you don't want to pay the premium price of the 3305.
why not just mmm rivet the rivets instead of soldering? amature soldering can be quite messy and challenging in general
you'll need to join the rivets with pcb trace, you dont need to be expert in soldering, knowing how to solder is enough, good for practice by the way
Mas, pernah bermasalah gak setelah pakai rivet?
masalah gimana? kan gitu doang, klo switchnya ga response, ya paling salah rivet, cari yg kuning copper/tembaga, ato gak nyoldernya ga bagus, ato gak waktu dijepit pake tangnya itu kurang rapet
Permisi om, boleh minta link millmax clonenya yang om spesifik beli?
Search aja di Toped ato Shope "Rivet M1.3"
Damn, i've been looking that thing for days, i don't know the name for it, my switch pin got stucked on pcb so i need to desolder it, and change the socket, but the problem is, i've already bought milmax socket lol
Have you tried AliExpress? you'll be surprised with the price dude, even cheaper 😱