Just learnt soldering recently and successfully fixed my malfunctioning mouse by replacing the micro switches. Feels like a brave new world of tinkering and fixing just opened for me :)
@@arturbecker9936 Oh! Wow! ....please enlighten me:)& name a brand? ide love to know why anyone would justify spending $200 on a mouse.... when you could just solder your old ones like this person obviously did
The fact that a spool of RadioShack solder makes an appearance in this video fills me with nostalgia. Also a testament to how long a spool will last most people.
One tip is to try different tips. Pencil tips are the most common, but are also more frustrating to use due to the limited surface area to transfer heat into the things you're soldering. A chisel, knife edge, or other tip with a flat edge makes soldering most components much easier, especially with ground planes that like to absorb all of your heat. So if you're having trouble, sometimes a different tip will do the trick.
All solders have some flux in the core of the metal. But most times that flux is not enough. It just helps it move better, like putting grease on a joint
If you've ever soldered anything dry versus soldering with flux, it's a world of difference. It's difficult to understand without this sort of explanation, or doing it first hand.
Flux removes the oxide layer on the surface of metal when heated up. Usually flux is already inside of solder. But when you are soldering a lot of that flux which is inside of the solder evaporates due to the heat of iron and solder doesn't bond that well. If you are melting solid solder directly to the joint you don't need extra flux but when you are melting solder to the soldering iron first and then to the joint you definetly need to put flux on the joint because there is no longer flux in the solder.
This is a decent primer for learning how to solder. If any one wants a good video series to learn more about soldering, I highly recommend the PACE Basic Soldering series and the PACE Rework and Repair series. Both are available on TH-cam and they have several language options.
More beginner's guides like this would be great; I've been thinking of getting into soldering one day and now I know what I need to get started if/when I finally wind up getting into it. Thanks for this!
A few important things to add. You should raise the temperature of the two things you are joining to the melting point of the solder so apply the tinned iron to the joint and then, when hot, add the solder to the joint. Don't carry solder to the joint with the iron or apply solder to the iron (other than while tinning it). Make sure you have a sufficiently hot tip for the job. It's much easier to solder with a tip a little too hot or big than one that too cold or too small. When using flux cored solder (which most is) you shouldn't need any extra flux especially if you are soldering new items other than surface mount when you would probably be using paste. Keep the items clamped and still. A joint that moves while cooling will be a bad joint.
I learned to solder when I was in college. Most, if not all of this information is true. The one thing I can say that can go either way is the necessity of a fume extractor. Yes, they do work, but if you’re in a well-ventilated area, it’s not as much of a necessity as it seems. You could also use a fan.
I once soldered with bare feet (only sandals) and a big goop of liquid solder fell onto my to and burned itself through the skin, this got a nasty infection 😅. Though this was with a very big soldering iron and a big goop, usually the solder drops aren't critical.
I err on the side of having slightly too much so aiming for a Hershey’s Kisses-shape is fine by me but, technically, a Kisses-shaped solder fillet is bit too much. It’s only convex at the top and bulges out on the bottom. The perfect amount according to certification standards is convex all the way down with no bottom-bulge.
My advice to everyone is get a temperature adjustable soldering iron (they are not super expensive, you can get something between 40-150$) it also depends on how serious/rich , it willl make it lot easier, flex is your friend, the right tools for the right job,
Soldring paste is solder in a paste form mixed with flux. It works, but careful about using it as flux, since it's a metal paste, and can cause shorts if you don't clean it up well after use. flux on the other hand works as well and costs less.
The effects of flux at each stage of the process is often left out of many guides. It's always just "it makes solder flow better" which is helpful but not all that precise enough. Big plus for that.
Well if you don't have fume extractor and you aren't soldering that often no harm will be done, just avoid breathing fumes as much as possible. But if you are soldering very often then it is recommended because it can cause some health issues over time. On the other hand flux is very important and it really makes the connections much better because it cleans all the oxides on the connection. But there is some flux inside the solder already. When soldering some of the flux inside the solder evaporates so using some additional flux helps a lot.
I own the TS101 and it works as great as the 888D, though not on the level the 951 can provide but thats just overkill for the masses. Didn't cost me much too on AE, less than $100 SGD.
mmmm. Nice Palava Intro. Only interested for re attaching that tiny broken wire on my Hornby Era 1 stephensons Rocket. Vid to come folks! Now, need to buy that soldering iron!
Why do you need music in the background of the sound? I find it difficult to hear clearly what the speaker is saying, even with headphones on. I don't understand how it adds to understanding.
Flux works by acting as a heat transferring medium. Just like trying to sear a piece of meat on a dry pan vs with a little bit of oil. When oil is present the action is completed more quickly and equally. When you try soldering an IC without and flux you try so hard and even risk damaging it. Just like you would char your meat.
When I did a whole heap of tiny surface mounted diodes (as small as 1mmx1.5mm), I cut slivers of painter's tape to stick them in place. Holds them in position enough to solder and is easy to remove once done. Plus, a desk/lab magnifying glass with light was really handy for me. For slightly larger components I've also used Blu-Tack/adhesive putty to hold in position. Agree that a nice set of tweezers is also useful.
Just fixed my drifting Xbox one controller have tried previous but was too harsh and ended up ripping off joysticks than then letting them come on themselves and damaging the board. Now corrected with better solder and flux and correct wick the right equipment really does help don’t me stingy me and use plumber flux and crappy Chinese solder I got with the iron off Amazon 😂
I would've talked more about cold joints, setting the right temperature, type of iron points, cold joints (again), helping yourself with an heatgun for large surfaces and with the braid, types of flux, cold joints (seriously guys you should include it). But overall great stuff for a start from 0 introduction.
This is something that one should learn: you don't know much money and time. This saved me over the years. It has some upfront investment, but it saves you in the long run
Overall nice video. But when watching factory workers hand-solder through hole-components, they don't pre-apply flux. Nor does a soldering robot or a wave soldering machine. I also don't think iFixit applies flux before soldering every single joint. For me, the same is true: the flux in the solder is enough to create a solid, shiny joint. I would reserve extra flux for removing old solder or very big joints. Also, there's a trick to desoldering wicks: the ones with flux inside work. The others... don't work at all. You must also raise the temperature when using a wick. My best purchase has been the Weller tip activator. Dip it before you start soldering, and dip it once when you're done and wipe on the (brass) wool. It's very quick and natural in the workflow if you stick it near the brass wool, and your tip will last decades! A fume extractor will have no chance of filtering anything without being loud. Either the filter doesn't filter and only requires a weak fan, or it does and needs a loud fan. If you can't afford a $400+ quality brand, consider a fan on a hose out of the window, and fumes not caught will stay in the room and spread in the building, so you must also vent the room. You can buy a magnifying lamp and put the lens between you and the iron tip at a slight angle, to avoid fumes and sputter reaching your eyes. Finally, if the board is small and easily handled, a tip is to fixate a bit of solder with a Helping Hand instead, and touch it and the board to the iron tip.
4:38 "Kind of like a Hershey's Kiss, but without the diabetes" 😂🤣 I do not care how "easy" leaded solder is, if I had to work with solder, I would 100% skip leaded and go unleaded. 👍🏾
* I love I fix it. I’ve been using the teardown on their websites for years now… Hilariously I never thought to look up the TH-cam channel which I am now currently a subscriber previously lol I would find these videos mostly I don’t know why Russians they would ha ha ha ha begin disorder and sniff it and say how they love the way it smells they don’t think it’s toxic. Oh it’s fine lol I ended up buying leadfree just on the safe side and ventilator lol no I fix it. Y’all are real pros. Y’all know what time it is ……😂Wow…I get it….i hv lead free …that makes perfect sense….very cool ty vm!
@@Alobster1 i KNEW IT!!! Ok i am glad someone else is mentioning this as well because I thought I was the only one who thought that don't tell my dad but yeah I'm totally getting the lead kind next time lol
Why? Leads need to be shortened to provide clearance for the board components against the enclosure. Depending on the material, the enclosure itself can short circuit your board if those leads are in contact with it.
@@edfinite7534 If you watch those excellent Pace soldering videos on TH-cam you'll see that they always clip and then solder. I guess that is the way they recommend to do it.
0:47. Sheesh. Lead is NOT a chemical, it's a metal, atomic number 82, an element. If you can't even proofread for factual accuracy why should I listen?
We need series of this "Beginners Guide" .. 👍👍
i second that!
3rd!
4th !
5th
6 th
Just learnt soldering recently and successfully fixed my malfunctioning mouse by replacing the micro switches. Feels like a brave new world of tinkering and fixing just opened for me :)
Congratulations you just saved yourself 20bucks and earned some lifelong skills which amount to a lot more than 20 bucks in the long run… props
@@DjMicr0dot depending on the mouse they might have even saved some 200 dollars!
@@arturbecker9936
𖠌
....squeek squeek!!!
This is exactly what TH-cam is about, imo. Good on you!
@@arturbecker9936 Oh! Wow! ....please enlighten me:)& name a brand? ide love to know why anyone would justify spending $200 on a mouse.... when you could just solder your old ones like this person obviously did
The fact that a spool of RadioShack solder makes an appearance in this video fills me with nostalgia. Also a testament to how long a spool will last most people.
I have the same one at home. I think I bought it when I was a teenager in the mid-nineties.
One tip is to try different tips. Pencil tips are the most common, but are also more frustrating to use due to the limited surface area to transfer heat into the things you're soldering. A chisel, knife edge, or other tip with a flat edge makes soldering most components much easier, especially with ground planes that like to absorb all of your heat. So if you're having trouble, sometimes a different tip will do the trick.
thanks!
Thank you, senator Armstrong
I’ve been soldering little things for years, but I’ve always known I had no clue what I was doing. Thank you for making this!
Is there anything you were doing along
Is there anything you were doing wrong the whole time
Watched many soldering-desoldering videos, but never understood what flux is for and never bothered to search up.
Now I know what's its purpose.
All solders have some flux in the core of the metal. But most times that flux is not enough. It just helps it move better, like putting grease on a joint
If you've ever soldered anything dry versus soldering with flux, it's a world of difference. It's difficult to understand without this sort of explanation, or doing it first hand.
Flux removes the oxide layer on the surface of metal when heated up. Usually flux is already inside of solder. But when you are soldering a lot of that flux which is inside of the solder evaporates due to the heat of iron and solder doesn't bond that well. If you are melting solid solder directly to the joint you don't need extra flux but when you are melting solder to the soldering iron first and then to the joint you definetly need to put flux on the joint because there is no longer flux in the solder.
This is a decent primer for learning how to solder.
If any one wants a good video series to learn more about soldering, I highly recommend the PACE Basic Soldering series and the PACE Rework and Repair series. Both are available on TH-cam and they have several language options.
You have one of the most interesting TH-cam channels, and the organisation in your e-shop is amazing. Proud to support! Best regards.
I ❤ my Pinecil64, so handy to be used everywhere.
Got the V2, it's absolutely great, as long as you get the non-conical tips for some extra money.
Yep it's a great soldering iron looks great with the clear case to
More beginner's guides like this would be great; I've been thinking of getting into soldering one day and now I know what I need to get started if/when I finally wind up getting into it. Thanks for this!
This was the best quick intro to soldering video I've seen so far, great work.
I sincerely appreciate this video being so concise and thorough AND short. Thanks.
Did my first real soldering job a little while back to repair an XBox One that had some missing capacitors. Went really well! Great video!
A few important things to add. You should raise the temperature of the two things you are joining to the melting point of the solder so apply the tinned iron to the joint and then, when hot, add the solder to the joint. Don't carry solder to the joint with the iron or apply solder to the iron (other than while tinning it). Make sure you have a sufficiently hot tip for the job. It's much easier to solder with a tip a little too hot or big than one that too cold or too small. When using flux cored solder (which most is) you shouldn't need any extra flux especially if you are soldering new items other than surface mount when you would probably be using paste. Keep the items clamped and still. A joint that moves while cooling will be a bad joint.
Thank you for making 6:46 this great video. The use and selection of flux perplexes me. Help please
more beginner soldering series please
This was so helpful and informative. Please more beginner type videos
I learned to solder when I was in college. Most, if not all of this information is true. The one thing I can say that can go either way is the necessity of a fume extractor. Yes, they do work, but if you’re in a well-ventilated area, it’s not as much of a necessity as it seems. You could also use a fan.
Love this guide! Thankyou!
Many thanks. I learned a lot from your video. Clear and concise. Kind regards Steve.😃🇦🇺
I liked this video. It was straight to the point.
Didn't find the "DIY fume extractor that won't break the bank" video.
Is it work in progress or will there be no video on this topic?
Thanks!
Superb video.
Keep up the great work Mr
this was a great refresher for me, thanks.
I once soldered with bare feet (only sandals) and a big goop of liquid solder fell onto my to and burned itself through the skin, this got a nasty infection 😅. Though this was with a very big soldering iron and a big goop, usually the solder drops aren't critical.
I err on the side of having slightly too much so aiming for a Hershey’s Kisses-shape is fine by me but, technically, a Kisses-shaped solder fillet is bit too much. It’s only convex at the top and bulges out on the bottom. The perfect amount according to certification standards is convex all the way down with no bottom-bulge.
My advice to everyone is get a temperature adjustable soldering iron (they are not super expensive, you can get something between 40-150$) it also depends on how serious/rich , it willl make it lot easier, flex is your friend, the right tools for the right job,
I use soldering paste, is that the same as flux?
Soldering paste has flux in it. It's generally used to place on pads of a PCB before they go in a soldering oven.
Soldring paste is solder in a paste form mixed with flux. It works, but careful about using it as flux, since it's a metal paste, and can cause shorts if you don't clean it up well after use. flux on the other hand works as well and costs less.
@@rraygen My paste is whitish and I seriously doubt there is any metal in it. I'll check the label tomorrow.
Hella down for more. Ty for sharing.
The effects of flux at each stage of the process is often left out of many guides. It's always just "it makes solder flow better" which is helpful but not all that precise enough. Big plus for that.
Beginner guide series please!!
What if I dont have flux or a fume extractor?
Well if you don't have fume extractor and you aren't soldering that often no harm will be done, just avoid breathing fumes as much as possible. But if you are soldering very often then it is recommended because it can cause some health issues over time. On the other hand flux is very important and it really makes the connections much better because it cleans all the oxides on the connection. But there is some flux inside the solder already. When soldering some of the flux inside the solder evaporates so using some additional flux helps a lot.
@@Slovenija_patriot Thank you very much
@@FixationRepair No problem.
I own the TS101 and it works as great as the 888D, though not on the level the 951 can provide but thats just overkill for the masses. Didn't cost me much too on AE, less than $100 SGD.
Great video. Only note: Lead is a toxic 'metal' and not a chemical.
Nice tutorial.
I have a Soldering Iron and there have 420 *C Max Temperature, there is Electric and there is on TYPE-C
mmmm. Nice Palava Intro. Only interested for re attaching that tiny broken wire on my Hornby Era 1 stephensons Rocket. Vid to come folks! Now, need to buy that soldering iron!
About time 👀
1:39 I’ve been doing with the soldiering iron and the one with lead only for a year now 😂
I'm trying to replace a chip on a ps4 controller and when trying to align it, I knocked all the little components out of place 😫
Oh dear! Wish I could help on that one.
@mercuraz haha that's okay. I meticulously put them back in place.
Why do you need music in the background of the sound? I find it difficult to hear clearly what the speaker is saying, even with headphones on. I don't understand how it adds to understanding.
As someone with ADHD, the music gives my brain stimulus it would desperately be lacking otherwise, I'd probably lose focus and click off otherwise
Thank you for sharing!!!
Amazing video
Flux works by acting as a heat transferring medium. Just like trying to sear a piece of meat on a dry pan vs with a little bit of oil. When oil is present the action is completed more quickly and equally. When you try soldering an IC without and flux you try so hard and even risk damaging it. Just like you would char your meat.
And now I need guide how to hold steady small resistor in size of rice grain.
Hold the component with a pair of tweezers in a pencil-like grip, with your wrist on a table. It takes practise and patience
When I did a whole heap of tiny surface mounted diodes (as small as 1mmx1.5mm), I cut slivers of painter's tape to stick them in place. Holds them in position enough to solder and is easy to remove once done. Plus, a desk/lab magnifying glass with light was really handy for me. For slightly larger components I've also used Blu-Tack/adhesive putty to hold in position. Agree that a nice set of tweezers is also useful.
Just fixed my drifting Xbox one controller have tried previous but was too harsh and ended up ripping off joysticks than then letting them come on themselves and damaging the board. Now corrected with better solder and flux and correct wick the right equipment really does help don’t me stingy me and use plumber flux and crappy Chinese solder I got with the iron off Amazon 😂
Great info.
Thank you.
Excellent
A wet sponge is bad. It causes thermal shock to the tip. Brass wool is the go!
I like this one
I thought he said that everything on the list was about 100 bucks. The soldering iron alone is 122 😂
I would've talked more about cold joints, setting the right temperature, type of iron points, cold joints (again), helping yourself with an heatgun for large surfaces and with the braid, types of flux, cold joints (seriously guys you should include it). But overall great stuff for a start from 0 introduction.
Yo, I have the same soldering iron. It's pretty good for the price.
I love your video, and wanted to use it in an 8th grade class, but the word "crappy" ruled it out.
Tip 1 - buy a TS101. Tip 2 - buy an OmniFixo. Tip 3 - buy Engineer branded wire strippers, pliers and side snips.
so no flux is a bad connection?
yeah absolutely
Yep, it will dry up and crack like concrete.
Kind of. Solder has flux in it. A bad connection is one without continuity.
Wow, i need to study with you, I'm unemployed now, lmao 🤣 😂 😆 😅 😭 🙃
In India all the above can be purchased at 8dollar.
Amazing idea those videos, maybe you should add a few macro shots of the soldering process ?
Desoldering pump (or solder sucker) is also a great, cheap tool.
06:07 "And finally, if you're struggling - don't blame yourself..."
Blame me - see you all in the comments!
This is something that one should learn: you don't know much money and time. This saved me over the years. It has some upfront investment, but it saves you in the long run
Overall nice video. But when watching factory workers hand-solder through hole-components, they don't pre-apply flux. Nor does a soldering robot or a wave soldering machine. I also don't think iFixit applies flux before soldering every single joint. For me, the same is true: the flux in the solder is enough to create a solid, shiny joint. I would reserve extra flux for removing old solder or very big joints.
Also, there's a trick to desoldering wicks: the ones with flux inside work. The others... don't work at all. You must also raise the temperature when using a wick.
My best purchase has been the Weller tip activator. Dip it before you start soldering, and dip it once when you're done and wipe on the (brass) wool. It's very quick and natural in the workflow if you stick it near the brass wool, and your tip will last decades!
A fume extractor will have no chance of filtering anything without being loud. Either the filter doesn't filter and only requires a weak fan, or it does and needs a loud fan. If you can't afford a $400+ quality brand, consider a fan on a hose out of the window, and fumes not caught will stay in the room and spread in the building, so you must also vent the room.
You can buy a magnifying lamp and put the lens between you and the iron tip at a slight angle, to avoid fumes and sputter reaching your eyes.
Finally, if the board is small and easily handled, a tip is to fixate a bit of solder with a Helping Hand instead, and touch it and the board to the iron tip.
👍 - Thanks! :)
The Florida pool pump motor repair guy 32750 approved ! that was good info & see iFixit
10/10
4:38 "Kind of like a Hershey's Kiss, but without the diabetes" 😂🤣
I do not care how "easy" leaded solder is, if I had to work with solder, I would 100% skip leaded and go unleaded. 👍🏾
There are zero benefits to using lead free solder. Leaded is way easier to use in every way. Just don't eat the stuff.
This is misinformation: just say screw it we ball and you’ll do fine
only way
Purchasing all of this equipment will definitely exceed $100.
Don’t forget to wash your hands!
But also gosh I can’t stop my tips from oxidizing even tho I thin them
* I love I fix it. I’ve been using the teardown on their websites for years now… Hilariously I never thought to look up the TH-cam channel which I am now currently a subscriber previously lol I would find these videos mostly I don’t know why Russians they would ha ha ha ha begin disorder and sniff it and say how they love the way it smells they don’t think it’s toxic. Oh it’s fine lol I ended up buying leadfree just on the safe side and ventilator lol no I fix it. Y’all are real pros. Y’all know what time it is ……😂Wow…I get it….i hv lead free …that makes perfect sense….very cool ty vm!
Leaded solder is WAY easier to use then lead free. Just don't lick your fingers after using it, it isn't that dangerous.
@@Alobster1 i KNEW IT!!! Ok i am glad someone else is mentioning this as well because I thought I was the only one who thought that don't tell my dad but yeah I'm totally getting the lead kind next time lol
Man I want a soldering station microscope and iron so bad but I just don't have 3 to 5K lying around...
Like number 900 :)
I can't place his accent but I like it
You should never cut the legs of a component or wire after soldering it.
Why? Leads need to be shortened to provide clearance for the board components against the enclosure. Depending on the material, the enclosure itself can short circuit your board if those leads are in contact with it.
@@edfinite7534 If you watch those excellent Pace soldering videos on TH-cam you'll see that they always clip and then solder. I guess that is the way they recommend to do it.
The beginner guide video is made super poorly.. well thanks anyway
0:47. Sheesh. Lead is NOT a chemical, it's a metal, atomic number 82, an element. If you can't even proofread for factual accuracy why should I listen?
is that not a chemical element? im confused here
Metals are chemicals lol..
Or just use a heat gun for every task!!!444
And risk damaging other components or traces on the board? Heat gun is more suitable for surface mount components, not through-hole
do not get cheap masks when using leaded solder. money is not worth more than your life
Solder, The L is missing
The L is silent.
The first step would be learning how to pronounce soLder.
The L is silent.