I think Debolt would be an excellent podcast guest. His laid back attitude, ability to casually, but intelligently talk about this craft is amazing to just listen to. This video in and of itself is a lot like a podcast already.
I have watched countless vids on lathes. Your questions and Paul’s responses concerning the aspects of comparing features and requirements for lathe applications truly is the best I have ever watched..it enlighten me tremendously. I thank you guys very much for sharing....again very valuable information
Good video, all good points to be made. When y’all talked about the size and weight of the machine, I’d say pay attention to wether the machine is a solid cast iron base. Those are much heavier and provides more mass to absorb vibration. My pick for best all around size for hobbyists or everyday general lathe work is 16x60. Be sure the machine is equipped with a steady rest cause you will need it. Thanks for sharing John.
Heh, there's Mr Debolt recommending 14x40, you say 16x60 .. here I am with my little 3.5x20. I'll just take solace in the "Just get a machine and start making parts" line!
@@ScarredRealist I'm with you. Any lathe can be a good lathe for a hobbyist. Of course, I'm comparing "small cheap lathe > no lathe" to "small cheap lathe < his lathe".
I just bought a Delta Rockwell 11 inch and from watching your video, I learned a lot about my machine. I was lucky to have some nice extra's with it and the machine is in fantastic shape. I see it is limited to 1550 rpm's on the high side but I am just a beginner. I learned a lot from this video and really appreciate you making this video.
Next thing you know John will take a grudging look at one of those 3D pointing devices. ...But seriously thank you to both of you for putting this together.
Someone else in the comments mentioned spindle bore size. I am surprised that was not mentioned in this video. If I had my choice between a lathe with a 3" spindle bore that only spun 500 RPM, and one with a 1½" bore that would do 2000 RPM, I would take the larger bore lathe any day. The faster lathe is only going to save you time on longer cuts with small diameter parts, and if using flooded coolant, anything larger than 2" at 500 RPM is only going to make a big mess to clean up afterward. Even with 5 HP, winding-up a spindle with a 8-10" chuck to 1000+ RPM, is putting a really heavy load on that motor each time you turn it on. Even 3-phase won't live long under those conditions. Electric motors with a brake assembly are not cheap to replace.
I fell like a kid, my Sherline combo lathe/mill. Now I need risers, cutters, + then money for brass for an orrery. Well next years income check !! Great video you guys are quite knowledgeable Ralph
Great video so, appreciations for that. Paul is a great resource himself. I have a 14” Reed-Prentice that I restored over a long period. It’s another wartime lathe that spent time on a ship. It has a lot of those qualities you’ve both mentioned, as well the drawbacks (rpm). I believe it was meant to share some precision capabilities with a greater emphasis on hogging, hence 3600 lbs, 2” lead screw and stubby, probably so it could fit inside a smaller compartment/toolroom. It is a beast but the RPMs kill me and 100% agree with you; there are NO accessories and having a L-1 taper means I have to continue being creative with chucking. I have the conventional experience to know when something is not a good idea but, that is where experience becomes that double edged sword you don’t want to live by. I think you guys are dead on center; if there is any question about your skills or abilities to make good judgements on a lathe, just get a new one. -there is about 100 ways the old irons could kill ya.
I am new to machining. I recently bought a LeBlond 13x30. It has the standard change gears. It has the L0 spindle & 3 hp motor 3 ph motor. 45 -1800 rpm. My shop only has single phase so I installed a VFD for the lathe and the cooling pump. It's really a nice lathe. I haven't push it past 1800 rpm and not sure if it's a good idea to run it faster. I am guessing the lathe is designed for a top rpm of 1800 and running it at at higher rpm would compromise the gears. I removed the factory brake and use the VFD to quick stop when needed. I am a hobby shop so for now, it's working for me. Lots to learn.
For new machinist too, I cant tress enough, to check EVERYTHING. My lesson learned was on an atlas lathe. I was going to school and we were the first class through as they were completely rebuilding their curriculum from the ground up and moving into a new campus 3 times the size of the old one. It was absolut chaos and I figured I stood a better chance of completing projects on time of I had my own mini lathe. We weren't even 3 months into school when I bought a little Atlas for $100. It was missing some threading gears and I figured that was why it was the price it was because I checked nearly everything. the ways looked barley used, the tail stock was fine, etc, the chuck was pretty dinged up but I planned to get a 4 jaw for it anyway. It also did not have a motor but I have many motors. With those old atlas lathes, you were expected to supply your own motor. So, anyway, I had planed to make a chip bed and a rear guard for it and such. When I got it home, I noticed that it didn't turn so smooth but I didn't think much of it. I welded up a platform for the motor & chip bed and when I started top put it together and get the motor mounted, I got more concerned about the way the spindle turned so I put a dial indicator on the main shaft and it was .020" out! Mo&%er F&*%er!!! I said. ... no. Really I just took a deep breath and though for a minute. Then realized I'd still get the $100 out of it cause I had some other projects I can use this thing for (like a mini cnc lathe for instance) but it probably won't be recognized as an atlas lathe anymore.
Spindle bore size is another important factor. A few years back I bought a Myford MF-24. It was a great machine, almost in new condition, one owner who looked after it very well, but, the spindle bore was 1/2''!!! Ended up selling the thing pretty soon after as the only way to practically turn anything was with the tail stock or a steady.
I been drooling over the shopfox and grizzly lathe mill combos. I need both machines anyway and itd be nice to save on space since I'm gonna be making smaller parts anyway.
Maybe this is a unique opinion, but I prefer a trav a dial to a dro on lathes. Unless the dro has some way of visually showing the distance to the end of the cut. I tend to overshoot easier when looking at a dro.
And parts for atlas lathes are easy to find and not a arm are leg to buy,, I've seen my lathes triple in price in the last year as people realize vintage lathes are the best way to go. And even more appealing to look at with really fancy design features.
we have a nice lathe that is arround 20hp, you mentioned strictly belt drive, well that one has a belt drive for high speeds. (up to 3000 rpm) and you flip a lever to get geared drive (up to 1250rpm). main reason i switch between them is that the belt drive only goes down to 75rpm. witch can be a pain in the butt on big parts in some special cases. the geared drive goes down to 25rpm i belive. its a GDW. Eropean machine. very nice machine. in your terms it would be just about a 16x40. has a neat DRO on it that does constant surface footage and stores tool offsets for up to 99 tools. infinte speed adjustment too. in both gears. and no it is not cnc. just has all the neat features while still being manual.
I have not bought one, but the list price for a 3 HP 13 x 40 colchester new is $15,000, but the loaded version 13 x 40 with 7.5 hp a full set of change gears is $30,000. Colchester in UK and Clausing in US have data sheets on their line of tools.
My WW2 era 14x54 Hendey does everything and more that I need. 1000rpm top speed, plenty of power, plenty of features. That said, I don't think one size fits all. I added a smaller machine for small parts.
IF i could i would copy every dang thing you have done concerning upgrades to your shop .But I would likely never be able to afford that. 37,000 lbs that was the approx. weight of about every single Master Coil for our staggered blanking operation in the Cylinder plant where i worked. (my co-worker had the cable snap one day with one on the hook, and it sounded and felt like an earthquake.) Over 18 tons- im guessing is more towards overkill than inadequate."Nothing too strong ever broke" i think applies there. (Yea, It might be rigid enuf, lol.)
I'd like to add one thing about looking at 3 jaw chucks.. it's REALLY nice if they have reversible jaws if you ever plan on doing work with large OD's and no through holes.. I'm always kinda stuck with mine because of it
How about the Sherline micro-lathe for the smaller parts? Not really expensive and has great accuracy for the price and is really small and light weight.
i like the idea of keeping the chips out of the precision devices...:) it seems like no thought has went in to subtractive chip recovery, just use a blast of air and sweep the whole shop..:/ thanks.
Horsepower varies with the product of torque times rpm, double the rpm and you have half the torque, the hp stays the same, barring a variable or two speed speed motor to some extent.
Surprised noone corrected this. These machines arent CNC. They're manually controlled metal lathes. They can be made to be computer controlled of course, but I didnt want anyone getting the wrong idea.
A 14 inch would be nice but look at the space you need. I love my logan 10. Can't think of a time I would be running a part that is too big for my machine. I am not doing production just hobby
I make small metal parts for models , for example i make metal periscopes for 1/72 submarine models. but i am making each one by hand with a drill, a dremel, files and sandpaper. it takes me about an hour to make a set of periscopes. What type of machine do i need to make the parts more consistent and speed up the production time? I am also planing to start making G scale train engine drive wheels at about a max of 4 or 5 inches in diameter.
….it hurts every time I hear someone speak about “belt driven” lathes. I made and paid the price (still) for buying a belt driven lathe. 🤦🏻 .. Love it . Learnt and still learning on it….but DAMN I want a geared driven machine!
I'm surprised at how surprised John was about the lathe having a 2 modes of of X axis feeding wiht the threading screw and the feed drive I do think a 14x40 is a good size, mine is an Advance from Taiwan (1980ish?) 2hp with a VFD so I can do 2000 RPM, if it was a bit shorter I don't think I'd really ever miss that length though.
I have a project that requires internal splines, I heard it's not easy and most shop don't want to do it. Can you tell me what kind of tooling and machine is required?
Veikra if your a hobbyist it's a no go period. If your a contract shop it's still a no go for anything but consistent repeat work. You'll never regain the investment and is not a job you can Jerry rig easily. I cut external splines and gears on VMC mills frequently. I'm not even bothering to attempt internal splines because the equipment is specifically specialized. You can try to cut an internal spline on a manual knee mill by grinding your own hss bit mounted in a holder with part in an indexer but I don't recommend it. If your determined don't expect a good answer here.
Depending on the design of your work it can be difficult to do. In mass production the splines would be cut with a broach pulled through the work in a special broaching machine. The broaches are very expensive and no one is going to want to do one or two parts... they want to do a thousand at least. If you only want several parts made you might consider wire EDM (electric discharge machining). That won't be cheap, but it would do an excellent job. If the internal spline is in a blind hole, then a Bridgeport type knee mill with a rotary table and a broaching head attachment (and they are hard to find these days) might do the job. But the broaching cutting tool will have to be precision ground to the profile of the spline you need. It is possible to cut an internal spline in a lathe, but requires an indexing plate of some type to locate and lock the spindle in position (so that it acts like a rotary table on a milling machine) for each of the splines. Then you need an attachment that will act like a shaper machine ram and again, a precision ground cutting tool to generate the spline profile.
Gud day sir! Is there a type of a lathe machine which has a atleast 3" spindle bore, has a bed gap that can swing atleast a 20" diameter workpiece, but is no more than than 6ft in distance between centers?
Can you do video about how do modern CNCs work? Motors/servos, linear scales etc.. For people like me that have no idea how they differ from small cncs with steppers. Especially I'm qurious how the lathe chuck holds position during milling. Is there a brake or something?
With a long straight edge, or within some limitations with a short straightedge and a level. I guess one could even use a narrow repeat-o-meter and a straight edge in combination.
I can't figure out why someone would need or want such a large machine for hobby model making. I have a import 10" SB clone (wish had the real thing) and plenty big enough. What are these guys building? 1/4 scale tanks?
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I know you these are good machines, but what are hobbist doing to need machines this large? Seems like 10 x 20 makes a lot more sense for guys with a basement shop or garage.
So much bad said about atlas,,,I have 6 I've restored all over 50 years old and none with significant wear on the ways,,and Hardly any spindle runout and of all 6 only 2 of the zmak gears show wear that affects turning,,,I've found flat way lathes to last longer and wear much more even then vways,,,sure a bigger heavier lathe can cut deeper but for most turning the atlas with cut plenty deep and can turn precise work for applications,,,sure if your going to do production work you need a production lathe, and as far as price you can be up and running for under 1000 dollars and a new machine as equal will cost you atleast 2000. 50 years old and I can slide a caliper and micrometer down all the ways with no changes in measurements,,, and the atlas flat ways can be grind easily where vways are pretty much junk.
How about: ''honey, I have found a lathe that also does the dishes'' ? But afterwards, you will be on your own man, so you will need to be creative to keep your lady happy !
A 14x40 for a lathe? I think this advice is a bit over the top and useless. He even says getting something like this into the basement would be difficult. Even putting this in the garage would not be easy! How much does it weigh? 1,400 lbs? 4,000 lbs.? Not to mention the circuit needed to drive this 5HP motor! Of course, we all have unlimited space to devote to some monster whose capacity we will never use much less need. What do I see in the background? a 7 or 9" lathe?
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I think Debolt would be an excellent podcast guest. His laid back attitude, ability to casually, but intelligently talk about this craft is amazing to just listen to. This video in and of itself is a lot like a podcast already.
Man knows his stuff, I like listening to Mr. Debolt.
Stefan Gotteswinter maybe a Debolt series?
Paul's the coolest cat ever, love his attitude towards everything.
I have watched countless vids on lathes. Your questions and Paul’s responses concerning the aspects of comparing features and requirements for lathe applications truly is the best I have ever watched..it enlighten me tremendously. I thank you guys very much for sharing....again very valuable information
Every video Mr Debolt is in is absolutely brilliant. A natural at sharing his immense knowledge and experience.
Good video, all good points to be made. When y’all talked about the size and weight of the machine, I’d say pay attention to wether the machine is a solid cast iron base. Those are much heavier and provides more mass to absorb vibration. My pick for best all around size for hobbyists or everyday general lathe work is 16x60. Be sure the machine is equipped with a steady rest cause you will need it.
Thanks for sharing John.
Abom79 totaly agree
Heh, there's Mr Debolt recommending 14x40, you say 16x60 .. here I am with my little 3.5x20. I'll just take solace in the "Just get a machine and start making parts" line!
@@ScarredRealist I'm with you. Any lathe can be a good lathe for a hobbyist.
Of course, I'm comparing "small cheap lathe > no lathe" to "small cheap lathe < his lathe".
any lathe is better than no lathe. I dream of monarch in India which is virtually impossible to get. However I make do with what i got.
True words :) nice to see you here :)
I've been to Paul's shop several times. He is an amazing machinist and always glad help with a little advice.
This is just what I was looking for. I want to get a lathe someday and I really had no idea what to look at.
I just bought a Delta Rockwell 11 inch and from watching your video, I learned a lot about my machine. I was lucky to have some nice extra's with it and the machine is in fantastic shape. I see it is limited to 1550 rpm's on the high side but I am just a beginner. I learned a lot from this video and really appreciate you making this video.
I have a 15x48 Colchester high low motor. I love it. It almost makes Abom79 chips.
Next thing you know John will take a grudging look at one of those 3D pointing devices. ...But seriously thank you to both of you for putting this together.
Someone else in the comments mentioned spindle bore size. I am surprised that was not mentioned in this video. If I had my choice between a lathe with a 3" spindle bore that only spun 500 RPM, and one with a 1½" bore that would do 2000 RPM, I would take the larger bore lathe any day. The faster lathe is only going to save you time on longer cuts with small diameter parts, and if using flooded coolant, anything larger than 2" at 500 RPM is only going to make a big mess to clean up afterward. Even with 5 HP, winding-up a spindle with a 8-10" chuck to 1000+ RPM, is putting a really heavy load on that motor each time you turn it on. Even 3-phase won't live long under those conditions. Electric motors with a brake assembly are not cheap to replace.
I fell like a kid, my Sherline combo lathe/mill. Now I need risers, cutters, + then money for brass for an orrery. Well next years income check !! Great video you guys are quite knowledgeable Ralph
Great video so, appreciations for that. Paul is a great resource himself.
I have a 14” Reed-Prentice that I restored over a long period. It’s another wartime lathe that spent time on a ship. It has a lot of those qualities you’ve both mentioned, as well the drawbacks (rpm). I believe it was meant to share some precision capabilities with a greater emphasis on hogging, hence 3600 lbs, 2” lead screw and stubby, probably so it could fit inside a smaller compartment/toolroom. It is a beast but the RPMs kill me and 100% agree with you; there are NO accessories and having a L-1 taper means I have to continue being creative with chucking. I have the conventional experience to know when something is not a good idea but, that is where experience becomes that double edged sword you don’t want to live by. I think you guys are dead on center; if there is any question about your skills or abilities to make good judgements on a lathe, just get a new one. -there is about 100 ways the old irons could kill ya.
Good info from Paul. Obviously a lot of material to cover, surprised no mention of taper attachment and spindle bore size.
I am new to machining. I recently bought a LeBlond 13x30. It has the standard change gears. It has the L0 spindle & 3 hp motor 3 ph motor. 45 -1800 rpm. My shop only has single phase so I installed a VFD for the lathe and the cooling pump. It's really a nice lathe. I haven't push it past 1800 rpm and not sure if it's a good idea to run it faster. I am guessing the lathe is designed for a top rpm of 1800 and running it at at higher rpm would compromise the gears. I removed the factory brake and use the VFD to quick stop when needed. I am a hobby shop so for now, it's working for me. Lots to learn.
Definitely a video with practical value. A must-see for anyone considering the purchase of a used or lower end lathe!
I have no idea what this thing could do for me, and I'm no engineer but this awesome guy sold me one.
For new machinist too, I cant tress enough, to check EVERYTHING.
My lesson learned was on an atlas lathe. I was going to school and we were the first class through as they were completely rebuilding their curriculum from the ground up and moving into a new campus 3 times the size of the old one. It was absolut chaos and I figured I stood a better chance of completing projects on time of I had my own mini lathe. We weren't even 3 months into school when I bought a little Atlas for $100. It was missing some threading gears and I figured that was why it was the price it was because I checked nearly everything. the ways looked barley used, the tail stock was fine, etc, the chuck was pretty dinged up but I planned to get a 4 jaw for it anyway. It also did not have a motor but I have many motors. With those old atlas lathes, you were expected to supply your own motor.
So, anyway, I had planed to make a chip bed and a rear guard for it and such. When I got it home, I noticed that it didn't turn so smooth but I didn't think much of it. I welded up a platform for the motor & chip bed and when I started top put it together and get the motor mounted, I got more concerned about the way the spindle turned so I put a dial indicator on the main shaft and it was .020" out! Mo&%er F&*%er!!! I said.
... no. Really I just took a deep breath and though for a minute. Then realized I'd still get the $100 out of it cause I had some other projects I can use this thing for (like a mini cnc lathe for instance) but it probably won't be recognized as an atlas lathe anymore.
Spindle bore size is another important factor. A few years back I bought a Myford MF-24. It was a great machine, almost in new condition, one owner who looked after it very well, but, the spindle bore was 1/2''!!! Ended up selling the thing pretty soon after as the only way to practically turn anything was with the tail stock or a steady.
Thank you so much for your knowledge
I am just starting out learning about lathes and machining
I been drooling over the shopfox and grizzly lathe mill combos. I need both machines anyway and itd be nice to save on space since I'm gonna be making smaller parts anyway.
I'm pretty good a buying crap lathes. I guess that's a skill as well :)
My guess is this guy is passionate about machining. I’d love to hear him speak the history , bit like he started to just before.
😶🙏🏻
I like his voice too. I agree, he would be an ideal podcaster.
I love videos with Paul!! Please do them any chance you get!
Maybe this is a unique opinion, but I prefer a trav a dial to a dro on lathes. Unless the dro has some way of visually showing the distance to the end of the cut. I tend to overshoot easier when looking at a dro.
And parts for atlas lathes are easy to find and not a arm are leg to buy,, I've seen my lathes triple in price in the last year as people realize vintage lathes are the best way to go. And even more appealing to look at with really fancy design features.
we have a nice lathe that is arround 20hp, you mentioned strictly belt drive, well that one has a belt drive for high speeds. (up to 3000 rpm) and you flip a lever to get geared drive (up to 1250rpm). main reason i switch between them is that the belt drive only goes down to 75rpm. witch can be a pain in the butt on big parts in some special cases. the geared drive goes down to 25rpm i belive. its a GDW. Eropean machine. very nice machine. in your terms it would be just about a 16x40. has a neat DRO on it that does constant surface footage and stores tool offsets for up to 99 tools. infinte speed adjustment too. in both gears. and no it is not cnc. just has all the neat features while still being manual.
I have not bought one, but the list price for a 3 HP 13 x 40 colchester new is $15,000, but the loaded version 13 x 40 with 7.5 hp a full set of change gears is $30,000. Colchester in UK and Clausing in US have data sheets on their line of tools.
My WW2 era 14x54 Hendey does everything and more that I need. 1000rpm top speed, plenty of power, plenty of features. That said, I don't think one size fits all. I added a smaller machine for small parts.
All good stuff, funny to see lathe tips on this channel though. lol I sure hope my new 37000lb lathe will be rigid enough. :-)
I look forward to seeing you carry it down into a basement.
IF i could i would copy every dang thing you have done concerning upgrades to your shop .But I would likely never be able to afford that. 37,000 lbs that was the approx. weight of about every single Master Coil for our staggered blanking operation in the Cylinder plant where i worked. (my co-worker had the cable snap one day with one on the hook, and it sounded and felt like an earthquake.) Over 18 tons- im guessing is more towards overkill than inadequate."Nothing too strong ever broke" i think applies there. (Yea, It might be rigid enuf, lol.)
I'd like to add one thing about looking at 3 jaw chucks.. it's REALLY nice if they have reversible jaws if you ever plan on doing work with large OD's and no through holes.. I'm always kinda stuck with mine because of it
Or 2 piece jaws so you can machine soft jaws in the future. They come in handy.
you guys are so lucky.. in India we do not have such good options for lathe.
How about the Sherline micro-lathe for the smaller parts?
Not really expensive and has great accuracy for the price and is really small and light weight.
You need just a frequency drive and a program which calcaulates the surface speed and spindle feed. Relatively simple (for me)
What about new lathes?
I see Monarch 10EE can still be purchased new but what about larger ones like Hardinge etc(cannot find)?
I was wondering something similar. If we're looking at buying new, what's a good brand?
Great video John.
beautiful lathe
Does Mr Debolt have a youtube channel that I can check out.?
i like the idea of keeping the chips out of the precision devices...:) it seems like no thought has went in to subtractive chip recovery, just use a blast of air and sweep the whole shop..:/ thanks.
Horsepower varies with the product of torque times rpm, double the rpm and you have half the torque, the hp stays the same, barring a variable or two speed speed motor to some extent.
enjoyed...lots of good info
Dang this guy really knows his lathes.
What an amazing video so cool to hear about these CNC machines
Surprised noone corrected this. These machines arent CNC. They're manually controlled metal lathes. They can be made to be computer controlled of course, but I didnt want anyone getting the wrong idea.
@@NeoIsrafil okay my bad
A 14 inch would be nice but look at the space you need. I love my logan 10. Can't think of a time I would be running a part that is too big for my machine. I am not doing production just hobby
I like this guy! He reminds me of this farmer that I know
Invaluable information gentleman.. Thank you!
I make small metal parts for models , for example i make metal periscopes for 1/72 submarine models. but i am making each one by hand with a drill, a dremel, files and sandpaper. it takes me about an hour to make a set of periscopes. What type of machine do i need to make the parts more consistent and speed up the production time? I am also planing to start making G scale train engine drive wheels at about a max of 4 or 5 inches in diameter.
Here because of AvE. Good channel!
How are the Logan 6510H. Have a chance to buy one for $200 but the variable speed pulley, the brass collar inside is worn. Is it worth it
einfach nice dein Post wieder mal ON POINT
Soooo my lathe will be here in another 10 days, thanks for letting me know its junk before it gets here...
M scared to make the same mistake... I’ve haven’t bought one yet... though.... your comments still strike me ... lol.. happy new year
I keep looking at a Colchester student. Just waiting for one loacl enough to me to come up on eBay
….it hurts every time I hear someone speak about “belt driven” lathes.
I made and paid the price (still) for buying a belt driven lathe. 🤦🏻 ..
Love it . Learnt and still learning on it….but DAMN I want a geared driven machine!
As a four-speed transmission on a lathe good or bad
I'm surprised at how surprised John was about the lathe having a 2 modes of of X axis feeding wiht the threading screw and the feed drive
I do think a 14x40 is a good size, mine is an Advance from Taiwan (1980ish?) 2hp with a VFD so I can do 2000 RPM, if it was a bit shorter I don't think I'd really ever miss that length though.
I have a project that requires internal splines, I heard it's not easy and most shop don't want to do it. Can you tell me what kind of tooling and machine is required?
Veikra if your a hobbyist it's a no go period. If your a contract shop it's still a no go for anything but consistent repeat work. You'll never regain the investment and is not a job you can Jerry rig easily. I cut external splines and gears on VMC mills frequently. I'm not even bothering to attempt internal splines because the equipment is specifically specialized.
You can try to cut an internal spline on a manual knee mill by grinding your own hss bit mounted in a holder with part in an indexer but I don't recommend it.
If your determined don't expect a good answer here.
Depending on the design of your work it can be difficult to do. In mass production the splines would be cut with a broach pulled through the work in a special broaching machine. The broaches are very expensive and no one is going to want to do one or two parts... they want to do a thousand at least.
If you only want several parts made you might consider wire EDM (electric discharge machining). That won't be cheap, but it would do an excellent job.
If the internal spline is in a blind hole, then a Bridgeport type knee mill with a rotary table and a broaching head attachment (and they are hard to find these days) might do the job. But the broaching cutting tool will have to be precision ground to the profile of the spline you need.
It is possible to cut an internal spline in a lathe, but requires an indexing plate of some type to locate and lock the spindle in position (so that it acts like a rotary table on a milling machine) for each of the splines. Then you need an attachment that will act like a shaper machine ram and again, a precision ground cutting tool to generate the spline profile.
I thought this was an April fools joke for a second ;)
Mr Debolt ty man
I have to start locking my cross slide :)
Gud day sir! Is there a type of a lathe machine which has a atleast 3" spindle bore, has a bed gap that can swing atleast a 20" diameter workpiece, but is no more than than 6ft in distance between centers?
Yes, we have one, 3 1/8" bore 20,5" swing and 4,5' between centers. Max rpm is 750rpm though so you would be using hss for anything below 1" thick
Fellow buckeye myself.
Can you do video about how do modern CNCs work? Motors/servos, linear scales etc.. For people like me that have no idea how they differ from small cncs with steppers. Especially I'm qurious how the lathe chuck holds position during milling. Is there a brake or something?
Great stuff thank you.
Did John edit all the gagging he was doing in the background?
Wow Awesome VID!
Is a kent trl1340 a good lathe
How in the world would you scrape a lathe way? I get a flat but how would you test the flatness of the lathe way to know where to scrape?
Beach&BoardFan Take a look at Kieth Ruckers videos on scraping his TH-cam channel is vintage machinery
With a long straight edge, or within some limitations with a short straightedge and a level. I guess one could even use a narrow repeat-o-meter and a straight edge in combination.
Sadly I can't really get a heavy machine as It needs to go up in a 3rd story... 300kg/660pound would be pushing it
What are you using it for? I've seen guys build amazing models with 9" even 6" machines.
Oh mer gerd, tis the end days.
What do you guys think of the Multifix Tool-posts?
Very expensive.
Don’t knock South Bend I have 2 booth are from 1938 and they work perfectly
I can't figure out why someone would need or want such a large machine for hobby model making. I have a import 10" SB clone (wish had the real thing) and plenty big enough. What are these guys building? 1/4 scale tanks?
hello ,,, how are you guys ,, I´m looking for job in lathe ,,
The lathe love episode
I dont subscribe to the notion ( myth ) that you need 2000 to 2500 RPM to use carbide tooling, absolutey not true . Nice video all the same .
Cool
Hallo l have need it but I haven't money!!!
What brand/model lathe is that?
It’s labeled TMC 1000 Deluxe . Taiwan Machinery Company.
Paul!
Pietro Carnaghi best lathes you can buy bar none if you have the cash 💰 if not Hardinge/Colchester/Monarch/ will do the job more the adept
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I know you these are good machines, but what are hobbist doing to need machines this large? Seems like 10 x 20 makes a lot more sense for guys with a basement shop or garage.
If the first thing John says isn't "DON'T" I'm unsubscribing 😉
Hello
So much bad said about atlas,,,I have 6 I've restored all over 50 years old and none with significant wear on the ways,,and Hardly any spindle runout and of all 6 only 2 of the zmak gears show wear that affects turning,,,I've found flat way lathes to last longer and wear much more even then vways,,,sure a bigger heavier lathe can cut deeper but for most turning the atlas with cut plenty deep and can turn precise work for applications,,,sure if your going to do production work you need a production lathe, and as far as price you can be up and running for under 1000 dollars and a new machine as equal will cost you atleast 2000. 50 years old and I can slide a caliper and micrometer down all the ways with no changes in measurements,,, and the atlas flat ways can be grind easily where vways are pretty much junk.
We r manufacturer of lathe machine in India so any machine if u want we can supply u
Small lathe lol 14x40 is giant
Even a 3500lb Monarch 10EE is only like 10x20 lol...
A video all about lathes…
I was going to say John doesn't even know how to run a lathe..
27:23 Risky
Long shafts.....gunbarrels.
I need an excuse to buy a lathe and/or mill. Anyone?
The Wakz if you don’t have one that’s a good reason to get one
The Wakz I have 3 now still not enough must get more
How about: ''honey, I have found a lathe that also does the dishes'' ? But afterwards, you will be on your own man, so you will need to be creative to keep your lady happy !
Need your pencils sharpened perfectly and cookies don't fit the mug to dip them in coffee so you need to turn them down like Colin did
A 14x40 for a lathe?
I think this advice is a bit over the top and useless. He even says getting something like this into the basement would be difficult. Even putting this in the garage would not be easy! How much does it weigh? 1,400 lbs? 4,000 lbs.?
Not to mention the circuit needed to drive this 5HP motor!
Of course, we all have unlimited space to devote to some monster whose capacity we will never use much less need.
What do I see in the background? a 7 or 9" lathe?
AVE crew!
Determine your size and power needs. LOOK AT THE BED. If it's beat up, run . AVOID Chinese lathes. TAIWAN lathes are much better .
people still use manual lathes? whodathunkit lol
i thought manual machines were obsolete in a pro shop??? Huh.......
Abom rarely has a really good lathe job these days to show, the cylinder jobs he did at Motion were awesome.