Inside the 1996 Everest Disaster - Ken Kamler
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ม.ค. 2009
- Watch full video at: fora.tv/2008/12/12/Dr_Ken_Kaml...
Dr. Kenneth Kamler recalls his harrowing experience on a climb towards the summit of Mt. Everest in 1996 when a lethal 2-day storm kicked up. The event, documented by writer Jon Krakauer in his bestselling book Into Thin Air, would lead to the deaths of eight climbers and leave several others -- including Kamler -- stranded and fighting for their lives.
In this presentation, Kamler explores the effects of the disaster, the rescue, and the relentless drive of human survival.
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Kenneth "Ken" Kamler is a microsurgeon and mountain climber. Kamler was chosen by New York Magazine as one of New York City's best doctors in 2002. He is a microsurgeon trained at Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center who also practices extreme medicine in the most remote corners of the world. He has served as chief high altitude physician for the NASA-sponsored research in human physiological responses to extreme altitude.
As covered in the book Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer, in May 1996, Kamler was at Camp III on Mount Everest preparing for a summit attempt when a ferocious storm engulfed three teams of climbers returning from the peak. As the only doctor on the mountain when the storm hit, he treated the survivors as they descended from Camp IV.
A climber and doctor on many Everest expeditions, he has worked with National Geographic to carry out geological research and precision mapping using laser telescopes and global positioning satellite beacons. He appeared on ABC's Nightline in the first-ever live interview from Everest base camp. and has appeared many times on national television. Kamler lives in the New York City area.
Beck said in an interview that he struggled with lifelong depression before that climb. His ability to survive and push himself when so many others died; that was something or someone showing him he had a lot to live for or it was his own epiphany to that fact.
Looks like we found a cure for depression, just send inexperienced climbers up to everest
@@NewChiqueChloe Sandy Hill is the reason they were late getting up. Beck is the reason they could not get down quickly. Those two got everyone dead.
After the disaster he said he realized he has been brainwashed by this 'Everest' thing. He kind of 'woke up' from that image he made out of this challenge. He also realized how crazy this climbing is for 'regular' persons, how hostile and risky is that environment.
@@Peppermint1 too late i'm afraid he lost his hands
@@catalin_2746, and the nose.
RIP Tsewang Samanla, Dorje Morup, Tsewang Paljor, Rob Hall, Doug Hansen, Andy Harris, Scott Fisher and Yasuko Namba
All of them died in vain the results of pride
@@j.michaeljefferson60 the price of the summit only a true climber understand, people below the mountain are death in life
@@ekbalam7488 What you are saying that 6 billion people who do not have any desire to do something that has been done already by many people. No one is ever going to be First again. Unless you want to be extreme and climbing blind with no legs. I think it's been done already.
@@ekbalam7488 these people are idiots... Climbing a mountain only to die, leave your body, along with all the trash for all the other idiots to see is asinine.
@@j.michaeljefferson60 some people arent content with being disconnected sedentary fuckwits on youtube and want to push their bodies to the peak of human capabilites. You know to grow as a person and be stronger. They know the risks they take. Everest is even far from the most deadly mountain anyway. How bout dont be a judgmental prick and move on to your next video
Boukreev saved many lives that night going up and down the mountain in the night without oxygen. A real hero in my opinion and a very very strong climber.
Died the next year in an avalanche
@@zachwillis4344 He died on Christmas day!
@@barbaramejias2886 Thanks. God bless him.
on the summit day he stayed high for ages helping everyone get to the sumit - very high for a long time - no oxygen.
he decended back to camp 4. In the middle of the night Beidleman wakes Bourkeev saying half is team is lost on the decent to camp 4 - Boukreev tried to find help from the clients and guides resting in camp 4 - everyone is too hypoxic and tired
Boukreev goes out on his own to try and find the lost climbers - twice - and physically draggs pittman back to the tents. absolute hero.
then the next morning he ascends AGAIN to about 8400 meters where his boss Scott Fisher was last seen by 2 sherpas. Sadly Fisher was already dead.
Boukreev died in December 1997 in an avalanche on an expedition to Annapurna
@@zachwillis4344 Really? After all that and he died the following year, sucks
Never any mention of the sherpas. So weird. These guys hike 90% of the shit up for the climbers. They don't even use oxygen.
+jagerx Damn right
yep
Merlin1940 Wow. Blown away(lol)by your response. And I cant possibly argue against anything you just said. Nor do I desire to. That was very well stated. I do have one question? What happens to all the trash and waste in and around base camp? Advanced base camp? All camps for that matter? Ive seen horrid photos of the piles of waste. But you tell me not to believe them because I saw them in media. So that's why im asking you.
Merlin1940 What the hell come on man. I'm not racist. I'm white. I think the pursuit of this idiotic "feat" which is only even possible by the help of Sherpas is not worth the risk and incredible environmental damage. Nobody cares anymore about someone who ascends Everest by flying in on a helicopter and uses oxygen all the way up, is fed cappucino at base camp. There is nothing heroic about climbing Everest. It's risky as hell and requires training and people die. For what exactly? Bragging rights. It's stupid, and it should probably just be shut down if it wasn't such a great economic boon to Nepal. I'm supposed to "praise" people who climb Everest? Why? It's not noteworthy. It doesn't benefit society. It's pointless and causes more harm than good. And I should also praise the expedition organizers? Why? Do we praise Bill Gates for running a business? It's simply a business.
Since you appear to be a climbing nut, you will never see the perspective of an outsider.
"jagerx" 18:26 « _I'm not racist. I'm white_ »
Business as usual. People are only allowed to speak about racism where it never existed. And forbidden to speak about the only racism that ever existed, which is racism against some whites, by other whites - of which you are.
« _Nobody cares anymore about someone who ascends Everest by flying in on a helicopter and uses oxygen all the way up, is fed cappucino at base camp_ »
You cannot ignore that this is an utterly malevolent and dishonest twisting of what climbing Everest is. And you would NOT dare post such big lies if you weren't hiding under false identity on forums to better bash honest people - just like your friends thugs under balaclavas or helmets on the street to better shoot honest citizens.
Now I guess the said lies above will continue below, under the same false names or others.
Thu 26 May 2016 18:50 GMT
Just to be clear: Rob Hall was a climbing guide and one of the best. He had summited Everest multiple times and more than any non-sherpa at the time. His job was being a climbing guide. Rob Hall's death, no matter how you choose to look at it, was at least in part due to bad luck. Freak storms happen, especially up there. He died doing his job --and doing what he loved.
There is a fine line between heroism and madness.
Ad Mirer That was well said! Having served in the combat arms of the military, I'd say that is pretty well spot on!
Right. Absolutely agree...
Ad Mirer well said yet foreign to me. I have to ponder this presentation right now, because it was so well-done as to leaving an incredible factual story unvarnished, took my breath away. The fine line must be huge to anyone fortunate enough to be on the receiving end of that heroism or madness... I'm sure I'd toast to madness if it saved my life. Here's to people who put the lives of others before their own. That's something beyond words.
Ad Mirer I don't know if it is in-between exactly. They often overlap.
You're right, this is insanity. Ijs
Wow, a great guy...human being, as well as doctor apparently. The book “Into Thin Air” is one of THE BEST books I’ve ever read. It puts you right there! I do admire the writing talent of John Krakauer for sure. I will add: No mention of Everest should EVER be made without including the Sherpas that make ANYTHING possible! Period...
Mark Hatch just read it.I actually new Mike Groom when he was a teen.I worked for his Dad.
@@alanaharris8624 Mount Everest is the biggest shit pile and it attracts the worst people.
There is a whole beautiful world of mountaineering that has nothing to do with Everest or the ass holes that it attracts.
I read this too, a gripping book indeed.
Nothing about the Russian that summited without oxygen then after alone climbed back in the storm and saved 3 people
That would be a good movie.....very brave.
His name is Anatolii Bukreev (+1997)
There's an audiobook called The Climb written by him (Boukreev).
This is because this piece of sh.t krakauer who did not do anything to help Bukreev to save people up there upon his request, went to sleep, but then made everything to downgrade Anatolii’s role in rescuing people in an absolute bravery . Krakauer did everything possible to make Bukreev seem the guilty part but not a rescuer. He was making himself secure to make some good money on a “brilliant story selling” later.
@@cindys9491 It's a great book. My version is on Kindle
Boukreev had found Yasuko Namba still alive (barely) during his solo rescue actions but due to exhaustion was unable to make an additional attempt after rescuing three climbers who were lost on the South Col. In his book he had huge regrets about not being able to save her. He did return in 1997 to cover her body with stones and mark the location with two ice axes.
I found Kamler's discussion on the brain and how Weather's brain may have looked during his survival ordeal quite interesting.
No one could have helped her move if she could not even stand up by herself. But maybe someone could have carried a sleeping bag to her place and wrap her up then come back on clear weather with the other climbers. I was surprised how those climbers were left laying down with their face and even hands unprotected from the winds.
@@Peppermint1 I didn't know they were found lying like that. They could have been standing the fell back and collapsed with something and landed that way, or pushed back by the wind. Or due to AS not realising they were in danger in the end due to the sickness affecting the brain as it gets smaller.
If none of those it is odd.
@@hazelmoore2976 they were told to lay down and huddle together because the winds were so high. The closest to the ground, the better, to protect from wind and hail.
If other members go with boukerevv they can carried to camp 4 a yasuko even scott fischer
@@Gustavo-mb6rt No, if you can’t even stand on your own, you can’t be helped; you can’t be carried.
Into Thin Air is one of the best books I've ever read. Once I started it I could not stop and I stayed up all night to read it. The call from Rob to his wife and the virtual resurrection of Beck Weathers are absolutely devastating.
I read it right now I will not sleep until I finish it!
*Honest to God, I was going to post something here... but when I saw your post, I realized you had already posted almost precisely what I had already been thinking of posting. ✓*
I also felt the very same way upon completing the book (although, I read it in 2 nights, instead of 1).
*I read it back around the year 1999 & yet, I don't think I'll ever forget this sad, yet riveting, true story.*
*RIP to all that have perished on Mount Everest.*
I've read the book 3 times!
Yessss
Is tht book about rob and tht climb?
Ken I know even after all these years, this experience still profoundly effects you. God bless you for all of your efforts and selflessness in an almost impossible situation.
The helicopter was only able to stay in the air because the pilot bounced his enormous balls repeatedly off the ground. He’s the true hero in this story
😂
😂🚁🏔️🏀🏀
Brilliant 😂😂😂👌
Amazing story, you can tell the pain still lasts with this man every day of his life. May he find some sort of comfort, someday. Thank you for this.
My heart goes to tenzing and Edmund who are the real heroes I consider. They were just clueless, they had no one to take a reference, not knowing the path uphill, not knowing where the trenches are, no ladder crossing with rope kept for them, only knowing one thing - those who climbed more, never came back.
It was such a raw climb, it would be the toughest climb ever without knowing what. Winners make a path for others to follow.
Tenzing and Edmund, everest would have surprised by your courage.
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa was a member of the 1952 Swiss team which reached 28,00 feet on Everest, thats why he was there with Hillary, he knew the way.
Not quite - two British climbers. Bourdillon and Evans, had climbed to 100m of the summit the day before (just below the Hillary Step). They reached this part about 1.00pm, which may have been their turnaround time. I think they may have up some ropes or climbing equipment as well. The only unknown part of the climb was the Hillary Step, which apparently is technically the most difficult.
The conquest of Everest was very much a team effort.
He told this story so well! I was captivated, cheering, crying. So many emotions.
Wow !! Beck is so awesome, after being left for dead a couple of times . He is a survivor . Heart felt sympathies go out to the families , of the ones that didn't make it . Sherpas are the real heroes & the Doctor & the guy that went and saved 4 climbers . Much love for Rob . He couldn't leave a fallen man . Thanks for sharing.
Per Beck, prior to the climb Beck was a major Type A Assho.......and after he was a different person. He literally changed his whole life. He was first in his life prior to climb, he totally appreciates that if it were not for everyone who helped him and his wife who arranged his rescue he would have died. Period. Gave a great talk, saw it around 5 years after the climb.
Rob was the hero. The Doctor, Beck, was a burden that because of his EGO...refused to accept the fact that he was NOT able to do it, and put so many others not only in danger, but to their deaths!!!
he does not mention that Beck was also left for dead again ..laying in his tent they thought he was dead again.. and left him
@Daniel Washford
Lol lol lol
You can’t pack people out of Everest. There’s dead people along the route.
@@brianpeters7847 2
Beck Weathers is a doctor. Wtf was Kamer saying, "i was the only doctor on the mountain"? In 1996 there were at least 6 doctors on Everest, both as climbing clients and as Base Camp doctors. Man, so many Everest climbers are egotistical shitebrains.
@@johnnations5932 Beck is not a doctor,he tests blood samples.
Glad you made it!! Been watching a lot of EVEREST and other mountain vids this week. Very interesting stuff! So, ty for taking the time to speak about it, A LOT of people are thankful! Have a good one and stay safe! And yes, Beck surviving was amazing, the human body can really do crazy things at times! And, sometimes NOT
I've been fascinated while watching different documentaries on conquering Everest. I read "Into Thin Air" years ago and watched "Everest", the 2015 movie this week. Thank you for this wonderful presentation.
Grateful to hear Neal's perspective. Thank you for inviting him and thank him for going over it all again for the thousandth time. Been stuck trying to understand the Everest incident for years. Where I live, lots of people die in the mountains every year, but this was different and a lot harder to grasp. I appreciate getting another piece to the puzzle--a huge, important piece.
"We're both listening..."
*awkward silence*
Indeed
Rob indirectly said i can't leave them. He ia a great man.
Muni Raja I think he felt guilty because he convinced Doug to come back after failing the previous year.
Some people just can't summit no matter how much they tried and when pushed to the limit end up dying. How do you abandon a friend who depends his life on you unless Doug tells Rob to leave without him but he didn't
And they both died.
i live in canada, winters here are cold as hell, i was walking back from work at -35'C, i was halfway and my legs were hurting so bad, i cant imagine what it must be like to be stranded in the cold on such mountains
I briefly had a job that had me outside in a Canadian winter for 12 hour shifts. It's painful as hell at first, but if you're dressed correctly it seems your body does get used to it and learn to manage. In a case such as those described here it would be severely painful, but generally the nerve endings would freeze, numbing much of the body, and the victim would pass out and die from hypothermia. In some cases though, the victim experiences mania, euphoria, many people who have frozen to death have been seen paradoxically undressing, complaining of heat. Sometimes to the point where bodies have been found frozen to death, their clothing removed by themselves. So for some it wouldn't be too terrible.
we have to keep in mind that oxygen levels get lower as you ascend the mountains, making it harder to move continuously and keep warm, so some must just lack the necessary equipment.... i know i do, -35 is -35 but id find it much more comfortable with good stuff on rather than a simple winter coat with jeans and adidas tennis shoes :P
BloodyandEnchained I really wouldn't know about climbing mountains, it seems like a hell of a feat and every one of those people have my respect.
But in regards to equipment, we were provided all the same gear as the cops we were working with, damn warm and really comfy, but we didn't have the luxury of hopping in the cruisers and watching DVDs in the warmth every time we got a bit chilly. It's all a matter of getting calories in your body and keeping active.. But I'd prefer to stay inside with a cup of cocoa...fuck winter and every second I have to spend outside in it. Worst job of my life, that was...well, second worst...
*****
what was your worse job?
BloodyandEnchained Pretty much the same thing. A security gig with long hours, no breaks, but with terribly thin uniforms in freezing rain.
I climbed Crane Mountain in the Adirondacks alone last winter and I was not prepared for the icy conditions. I ended up slipping on a rock face that was covered in ice beneath the snow and slid about 20 feet. The only thing that stopped me from falling off the side of the mountain was a small shrub growing out of a crack of the rock face that I managed to grab on to. Without that shrub, I don't know what would have happened to me. It was easily the most scared I've been while hiking. My son was 1 year old at the time and while Crane Mountain is no Everest, the thought of him pushed me to do the rest of the descent slowly and methodically so that I could see him again. I can't imagine what these people must be thinking when faced with Mt. Everest staring back at them. And to do it while your wife is 7 months pregnant is just sheer stupidity
I'm a little upset he didn't mention the fate of the Sherpa with severe frostbite. No name no nothing.
Amelia Zen it was't sherpa, that was member of another expedition - Makalu Gao, he btw was the first one to be airlifted before Beck
monixism either way.. there’s no mention of any Sherpa and without them there fucked.
@@monixism makalu lost his fingers
I feel like it is common knowledge in this field that the sherpas play a vital role in these accents. Im sure the sherpa community isn't upset in the slightest that they weren't mentioned in this presentation lol
That’s how they treated sherpa like shit ass,disrespect, not listening. They concern only themselves
"We're both listening." Enough said.
"Either way, you fall for the rest of your life..."
Lol. True.
It"s called taking the grand tour.
Word is, they are still falling. Not sure when they will stop the fall.
Falling for a few seconds isn't long for the rest of your life to be ...
m o o d
@@michaelgreene7810 they're falling until their bodies are found.
Cant imagine how brave George Mallory and Andrew Irving were. 1924 so primitive gear.
@Steven Levernier not everyone is a native speaker. Have some respect.
I wonder if they had oxygen back then when they did their climb...??🤔🤔🤔🤔
Steven Levernier Another grammar gulag overseer 😒
@@yungballsack2083 Or at least some kindness.
@@ilovebadkitties Yes but very primitive oxygen technology for weight, capacity, etc. It would run out much sooner than today's lightweight high capacity bottles .
I’ll never understand the fascination with being cold, and unable to breathe 😐
It's a spiritual journey. Something only who did the climbing understand.
Challenge, sense of accomplishment? Its the highest point on earth and thats good enough reason for a lot of people to try to reach it.
John a Fagerquist some people have different goals and some try to shoot them down in a TH-cam comment section how very sad.
@@johnafagerquist8235 meanwhile you just hide behind a screen knowing you will accomplish nothing in your life, pathetic.
@@smith9197 I don't think validation and accomplishment only comes from mountain climbing lol
The movie Everest brought me here!
Same!
same
+Aniba Maat Het-Heru same
Hey yall. Watch Touching the Void. you can find it here on TH-cam or Netflix. Epic mountaineering survival story!
same
Came back after watching Everest movie.
Same I just got done
+Rave Fear same, morning after watching it
+Rene Saulnier same
+yasaswy nagavolu Was the movie any good?
Erin N Well it was ok. I kind of liked the way they could reproduce the weather conditions etc from this accident.
I was one of the climbers who climbed mt Everest in dutch expedition in 2007, this mountain is far from a joke. Ever climbed 100-200m steep mountain, if you did you will notice it sucks all the energy out of you. During the Mt Everest climb you will fill that your body is very heavy, your muscles aren;t working properly even if you feed them with high glygemix food like chocolate. Syringes filled with steroids, pain killers are used but won't do that much, and if you're not clothed properly you won't feel any frost bite and that your skin/body is slowly dieng. I didn't reach the Summit in 2007 and i still regret even with so much experience i couldn't reach it. I believe people who reached this mountains summit without any oxygen supplies are true superhumans.
E- Mail i could never understand why people want to go up there. In my eyes, they are selfish idiots, who disregard that the mountain is a holy place to the locals. They litter the mountain with oxygen bottles, gear and corpses. How would we feel if Asians would flock to the st. peters dome and othe cathedrals to climb on top of it, and litter the place the same way?
6.5% of those who set out to climb Everest die. K2 is 25%. Take from that what you will.
E- Mail incredible.. thank you for sharing that.
The mountain is far from a joke but the people who climb it are a joke
There is nothing super about them. Climbing that hill is like playing Russian roulette, the idiots who make it do so because they got lucky and climbed under favourable conditions. The idiots who don't make it climbed under poor conditions like the ones in 1996.
21:12 In Picture Right Side you are missed Yasuko Namba R.I.P.
:(
Who DAT bro
Rob Alom one of the climbers on this expedition who did not return.
😢🙏 very sad
She was the true tragedy of this disaster. Three American clients got everyone else killed because they wanted to summit when they were not capable of it. Namba died because rescuing them meant she froze. Her life was not worth as much as an American.
Everest wasnt listening? I think its the other way around, you didnt listen to everest.
That’s it....Mother Nature always gives warning....you didn’t take notice!
Mt Everest only listens to Mother Nature and does what she tells her to do, and Everest can be a naughty lady when she wants to be!
What language does Everest speak...Tibetan, Chinese, or maybe it's Esperonto?
@@robertkelly9772 Sign language...
@@robertkelly9772 Obviously a language that those fucktards couldnt understand.
I climbed a bigger mountain in skyrim. Had to deal with frost trolls as well. It was very difficult but i had a bourbon and chips
Hahahah
Seriously . Hahaha
Please send your name to Guinness book of records for having bourbon and chips on a mountain bigger than Mt. Everest
Been there, done that. But then, I'm a weapon in human form.
I could have gone to the summit of Everest, until I took an arrow to the knee...
what a beautiful presentation. thank you Ken Kamler
What an absolutely great video. Thank you for taking the time to put this together and for sharing this adventure with the human race... Well Done and may God Bles you...
When one tempts fate and death, one can't be surprised when death appears.
The art of mountaineering is to move SAFELY in dangerous places. YOu armchair-internet adventures will probably shit your sorry pants when a mouse queeks!
Ego and adrenaline can be exhilarating and deadly.
@@damienfrancois5703 🤣 if you have a family its a selfish endeavour, besides the sherpas do the heavy lifting
@@orls9068 You write it, I don't have a family...
My cat is very patient, my mother loves what I do.
You are an armchair adventurer, right?!?
We all “tempt fate and death” by living and we are one and all “surprised when death appears.”
thank you for posting. I've seen Dr Kenneth Kamler on a few documentaries on the Discovery channel over the years. I've read Into Thin Air, and The Climb and have become quite obsessed about that 1996 climbing season. This was a very valuable addition to my appreciation of what went on during that fatefull season. I would of liked to of been at that lecture.
I watched Everest this evening on sky box office and I was very fascinated about others versions which have now been cleared up by this mans speech. Absolutely brilliant!!!
I would like to think that if I were Doug Hansen, I would have told Rob Hall, "Go! Save yourself" when I heard the other guides telling him to leave me there. He had to have known there was no hope, and that if Rob stayed, two would die instead of one. Of course, I've never been in a situation even remotely like that so I don't know what I would do. But I really hope I would prefer that someone else live if I am going to die anyway.
I was thinking the same thing. I hope I wouldn't condemn another person to die with me, just because of a fear of dying alone. To do so is unbelievably selfish. That being said, I too, have never been in a dire situation like that, and for all we know, maybe Hansen DID try to get Hall to go, but he refused. We'll never know.
Doug may well have said that.
I doubt he gave a damn.
spot on, Scott Fischer suffered with edema but he still had ability to know what to do,he forced Lopsang who was with him ready to die together to went down and save his life.Lopsang refused so Scott threatened to jump if he won't go down, Lopsang listenend and went down and he was alive but died in avalanche a year later.
@@giddygrub7176 we don't know..Doug didnt listen when a sherpa told him to turn back,he pointed his finger to the top means he would go up to the top no matter what.
Its unfortunate that sherpas don't receive the credit they deserve. If it wasn't for them, climbers wouldn't have the camps ready or the ropes set up etc. It would be sheer chaos on the mountain
Most people who attempt to ascend Everest do NOT LIVE at high altitudes. Many train by going to high altitudes to acclimate their bodies, but it is NOT the same as living in those conditions like the sherpas of Nepal do. Sherpas make more money in ONE CLIMB than they are capable of making in one YEAR at the usual jobs around Nepal, and the mountain is the primary source of income for Nepal as a country! Fewer lose their lives today than say 50 years ago because we have better equipment and clothing now, but human beings just are NOT bodily equipped to survive at extreme altitudes where oxygen is 1/3rd of what it is at sea level! Those who do summit have a lot of help with modern equipment, clothes, more compact O2 containers, boots, etc. But it is ALWAYS going to be chancy due to the weather, avalanches, crevasses and other dangers on the mountain.
(In my opinion, it isn't natural to pump yourself with steroids, CNS stimulants, etc. in order to climb, but I guess people will do it any way they can, BECAUSE IT'S THERE! Rather inane to risk your life for something that is no longer very noteworthy. Today, if you say "I climbed Mt. Everest to the top" it just isn't as phenomenal as it was many years ago. People shrug, "that's nice" and go on with what they were doing!! They have NO IDEA of the true risk, tortures, stamina and hardship that it takes to accomplish climbing "The Mountain!"
They get paid very well. Stop grand standing. We all know you really don’t give a shit. You just have to make yourself appear “holier than thou” like you have a big heart or something.
Absolutely! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
@@CD-pk7xr Yes, it's called BLEEDING HEART. They try to sound more "woke" for their woke brethren, then they ALL REPEAT THE SAME SHIT lmao - new generation man, sick sick people!
What do you mean they don't receive credit? Every other comment on this fucking page is about the Sherpas. And at this point how much credit is anybody entitled to for climbing Everest? As climbs go, it's not that difficult.
I just finished reading Into Thin Air a few days ago. The book has a haunting after-effect so seeing these photos and listening to the narration was especially moving for me. I tried to imagine what it would be like to be alone up there buried in a blizzard with no oxygen, wind chills minus 100 degrees and no chance of being rescued. I couldn't and I won't pretend to understand why anyone would want to subject themselves to such hardship-body and mind. But I don't judge either. Bless them all.
This presentation gives a quick and clear summary of that terrible 1996 tragedy.
A great presentation - thank you
That mountain is one big graveyard. Pure madness to go there.
Maybe
Sometimes we need an external challenge to remind us of what’s really valuable and important. Sometimes an external challenge is needed to bring us back to reality. Sometimes we need to know how small we are. How fragile we are.
Krakauer certainly wants to tell a story, and it seems like he made Boukreev out as more of a villain than he was. It wasn't a good idea to climb without oxygen as a guide, I think, but Boukreev made the right choice (whether because of self-preservation or not) to go down. And let's not forget that he went back up into the death zone to bring stranded climbers back. I think the truth is somewhere between Krakauer and Boukreev.
You're absolutely correct.
What u mean by the truth ?? I need to know
@@cmf4706 I just reread Into Thin Air, so I can give you an unbiased, factual description of what Krakauer and Boukreev said.
Krakauer was sharply critical of Boukreev because (in Krakauer's opinion) Boukreev wasn't acting like a proper guide. He says Boukreev chose to climb without bottled oxygen, which could have made him less able to help other climbers; and he took off alone after summiting, abandoning his clients in order to reach the tents at Camp 4 ASAP, where he could get warm and rest. His attitude, Krakauer says, was that he wasn't there to baby weak climbers. Yet Krakauer did describe Boukreev's two long journeys in the midst of the storm to find and rescue the climbers who were stranded outside of camp.
After Into Thin Air came out, Boukreev hired a ghost writer to write a book from his own point of view. He/the ghost writer said Krakauer refused to help search for the lost climbers (Krakauer said he was passed out from exhaustion at the time, and no one could even wake him up until the next morning). Boukreev also said he'd gotten permission from Scott Fischer to descend early, taking only one client with him. This is a critical issue since Krakauer said Boukreev *didn't* get permission and just did what he wanted to do.
Krakauer rebutted Boukreev's arguments in an afterword to a later edition of Into Thin Air, saying the ghost writer had failed to interview the people who played the most important roles in the disaster and who criticized Boukreev's attitude behavior. For instance, the ghost writer didn't interview the sherpas on the scene, whom Krakauer said were critical of Boukreev. Krakauer also said Boukreev couldn't keep his own story straight within his book.
Finally, here are two more unbiased facts from Krakauer's book. 1) Krakauer describes Boukreev's rescued of the lost climbers in great detail, and 2) Krakauer talks about himself helping in other ways throughout the climb and feeling literally nauseating guilt that he couldn't help them during the storm. Make what you want of all that. As for me, I tend to agree that the truth lies somewhere between these two accounts.
krakauer told it like it happened. Boukreev was hired and paid to guide. He didn't guide. He went up and down quickly and was resting in his tent when the shit hit the fan. This is a fact. Later, he rose to the occasion and saved people. This is also a fact. Would more people have come down safely if Boukreev had actually done what Rob Hall paid him to do in the first place?
😭
This was eye-opening... the brain portions ...thank you ... my condolences to you for the friends you lost... thank you for blessing us out of your experiences.
This is a terrible and horrific situation. GOD BLESS EVERYONE! Thank you, Doc, for saving lives.
There's a very fine line between hero and fool. When you do this with a 7mo. pregnant wife waiting,,, I would lean towards fool.
True , it has to be said his move was foolish!
mehfoos I agree with you 100%. Most people would have left Doug Hansen behind and saved themselves, and I'm not judging that, but for Rob Hall, he could not leave a dying client behind. I admire him a lot for that actually.
I would say more like selfish.In reply to Jackle61
Foolish to try and save someone’s life, who also has a family? You’re a real piece of shit, I hope you know that.
Selfish, in my opinion. Foolish for not sticking to his 2pm cut-off time to accommodate Doug Hanson
Was good to get an insight into what climbing Everest was really like. Intriguing also to get a feel for what it is like to be in one if the few places on earth where you can't be rescued. Getting down the mountain is entirely down to an individual being able to return under their own steam. It is a rich man's folly though. No one forced them up there....
I have watched enough videos of Everest and can tell ya. You would have to pay me $100,000 just to go to base camp..
Very well done tutorial, appreciate the work put into it
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I can not begin to comprehend the horrors that you faced at that time and even now. Thank you Dr Kenneth Kamler and Thank you God for giving him to the world
Saw the movie. What I learned is Discipline is extremely important in extreme circumstance.
+Kris B , your photo, David Brent (Ricky in "the office" ), I can't help feeling how pathetic he is... every time saw his face... what a character...
Anovena Read about Scott's catastrophic expedition to the South Pole? Lots of discipline but zero knowledge..
Skills & theoretical knowledge, or at least healthy intuition is other parts of a worthy concept successfully challenging nature
''Plan the climb and climb the plan'' . They got into trouble for numerous reasons..the biggest reason was them suffering not from HACE or HAPE or snow blindness or anything else...it was because they were afflicted with '' got-to-get-there-itis''
I learned that most of these people are fame seeking deuchebags.
And climbing Everest is for bell ends...
Thank you for answering my wondering why mountaineers climb at night, I had heard it was because they wanted to reach a summit in the middle of the day but your explanation makes a lot more sense, to avoid blocks of ice that can melt and fall. I had heard about the Khumbu Ice Fall being so dangerous, but I didn't exactly know why. I had heard that the ice fall (or glacier) moved about 3 feet every day, but I didn't realize chunks could fall on you (I guess it's not as flat as it looks)! And I know about seracs coming loose and falling off the mountain but that ice fall seems very scary also! (And I would be down on my hands and knees crossing a ladder over a crevasse!) Good luck; and safe climbing to you in your future climbs!
Dr. Kamler - you deserve a medal for your work and compassion.
Great lecture.
Just totally interesting
Read Into Thin Air, over and over, right when that book first came out.
Here I am today, STILL completely intrigued
Beck Weathers is a true miracle!
Absolutely heartbreaking. Not my place to judge, and I do get the adrenalin rush. However, I cannot understand how anyone would risk their life for this.
I must confess ... the potential risk part of the reason why I am considering climbing one of the worlds highest peaks. 😁
Everest is the highest mountain and those that risk their lives to climb it reach a similar level of stupidity.
A friend of mine climbed Matterhorn and said: "You know the feeling when you almost got really hurt? The adrenaline rush and excitement of being alive? The summit of a mountain will give you that feeling tenfold".
I'm obsessed with mountaineering and stuff like that, and I was a pretty good rock climber in my teens. But I could never do something like this because I know how ruined my family would be if I passed.
@@Zarglog ... Look, I admire those explorers/adventurers, I do. It would take months of preparation, but it just frightens me enormously.
I hear the same sentiment from a lot of people. It’s very sad that humanity as a whole has become less adventurous. You see all of these pathetic people wondering why they would risk their lives for something like that, but the only reason they’re wondering that is because they are pathetic and would never do something like that.
Watched Everest many times; watched Into Thin Air; watched many other accounts of this disaster. This is a great addition to the disaster - really appreciate this post
Fabulous presentation thanks.
That prefrontal cortex bit really fascinates me. I was in a backcountry situation & literally felt my brain turn on. Not like fight or flight/adrenaline either.
Forgot to say thanks for posting. Dr. Kamler tells an emotional story
What a Caring Physician and Lovely Man !!
I Feel So Proud, to be a New Zealander.
Sir Edmund Hillary ..
And In Absolute Awe, of Rob Hall.
A True Hero, in Every Sense of the Word.
SHERPAS Are the true climbing gangsters!
Blah blah blah. Yes we know.
Great additional insight. Read the books, saw all the documentaries (not yet iMax). This was a great slice from a doctor's point of view.
He survived because he remembered his family and what he had to live for... Some of us don’t need to be near death to know what we have to live for, and that’s why we would never put ourselves in such a dangerous situation over mere ego.
Christopher Pardell _ So very true. Not only do these fanatics risk their own life, no, they risk the lifes of resquers as well. I have no sympathy for them at all.
So true. that’s why I think it’s very very selfish for men with pregnant wives or children and loved ones to do this. for the thrill of it bullshit. I think that raising your family day by day being with them that’s the true hero
what a stunning, compassionate and intelligent review of that climb. Thank you, and blessings to the families of the deceased.
I know this is an old video, but I am just now learning about this disastrous year for people on Everest. I've never understood the need to climb mountains and risk life to do it, but I'm learning about it and finding people who risk it so very interesting. In a very small way, I can experience those things through them and their stories. Very interesting video.
u understand it when u go climbing.
I think you're like one of those who, after reading a medical book, claims to teach one of the most skilled surgeons in the world how to be a doctor ... if you really want to pass judgment on the decisions taken by Anatoli in 1996, remember this: No client of his expedition died
@brodie johns leader of the team was not a client.
@komorokiwi,
Rob Hall made at least one egregious error in the storm of '96: he didn't turn his clients around at the pre-arranged time.
Many believe this led to his own death, that of Doug Hansen (a client), and that of Andy Harris (a guide).
Also, Rob was trapped above Hillary Step trying to get Doug down, so he was unable to lead anyone to safety.
Rob was a great guy, but he made a terrible decision that day. We can respect his memory without giving credit where it isn't due.
very good summation
powerful, thank you for sharing!
It's not really about leaving people for a chance at the summit, but rather the risk of moving the person. They are most likely unable to move or help at all and trying to move them within the death zone pretty much spells death for yourself. In the book "Into Thin Air" the author talks about how a sherpa broke his femur far below the death zone, and it still took days for a 30 person team to move him 500 meters down the side of the mountain to the closest camp
The sherpas do all the hard work like fix the ropes ahead of the climbers as well as the camps, tents, food, etc. They even cook. It seems like that takes most of the challenge away from climbers and turns it into a theme park waiting line.
They do to get to base camp. They don't summit though
For the some of the sherpas this is how they put food on the table for their families. Climbing Everest will always be a challenge because of the physical toll it takes on your body. Most of the sherpas summit Everest countless times. A lot of the climbers will most likely only summit once in their lifetime. The sherpas are strong and appreciated by the climbers I’m sure of it.
I have summited snowdon in North Wales twice an that was tough to make it all the way up and down and this is like more than 8x the size plus the temperature climate and the oxygen/altitude coming into account
Its absolutely nuts how big this mountain is
Big respect to people who dared to summit
What an awesome seminar!!!! Feel bad for Rob and his family...
WOW! That's a chilly story
I never knew about this till the movie Everest...this is very interesting
I always watch Everest climbs etc and I came across this today and as I watched this I realised that the movie is based on this and I must say... Well Done that was amazing what you all did!
Great vid thanks!
I just finished reading Into Thin Air, I feel like I need to grieve, its such a sad story, when Rob Hall died I was crushed, as well as Yasuko, and so many others.
Follow Sarah Arnold Hall, Rob's daughter, on TH-cam. She will cheer you up. She is a motivational TH-camr , positive and beautiful.
I remember seeing the ads by Rob Hall and Scott Fisher in the back of climbing magazines in the months before the climb. I had wished that I would some how be able to afford the cost & have a chance at the summit with either Rob or Scott's team. I know I would not have been one of the strongest and probably would have perished. None the less I could feel nothing but sadness for the fallen climbers and their families. My respect to all who attempted and all who did not get a summit bid but tried
😆 lol
you really think the $ was the only thing that held you back? im guessing you weren't anywhere close to being a candidate.
Ive seen many documentary on this event amd tragedy BUT this has taken me onto some k8nd of undiscovered level. Ok he has left parts out but my god, so glad i accidentally stumble on this 15 yr old presentation really felt this xx
Phenomenal story thank you for sharing!
This is the most controversial event in mountaineering history. so many actions to question, so much to learn from. Heroism, exhaustion, and above all else, controversy is what is so intriguing about this disaster.
I read the book 'Into thin air.' What a disaster that was.
For all who died on Everest up to now.
R.I.P.
Great book. I couldn't put in down.
Pretty sure it’s the same story
Also read The Climb by anatoli boukreev
Same event better perspective
Kong Thao so did I. Great book; can’t put it down! People keep saying that he tried to make himself out as a hero. I disagree; I felt he was terrified and knew they were doomed right at the start.
@@izzojoseph2 Antotoli was disrespected in Thin Air and the Author walked past and left Beck. I threw his book into the bin where it belongs. Lets be honest most of these people should not be on that mountain. If you can't do it without Oxygen then stay off it.
I watched this video may be 10 years ago, & it remained in my mind as one of the best videos that described that tragedy
Beck was actually the 2nd person evaked, the pilot came back for another run.
Yes, how he could skip over that I'll never know.
That was Makalu Gau who went first, right?
Pilot had balls to land 400ft above the heli ceiling.
@@MtGuyful You missed a zero. The helicopter flew 4000 feet above its rated ceiling, not 400. 18:58
Also in his interview, Beck said it was his wife who relentlessly called everyone she could and that lead to that helicopter rescue possible.
Prayer Flags by Makalu Gau (Ming Ho Gau): a first-hand account on the 1996 Everest disaster. It is harrowing, personal, and exposes some of the greed and corruption in a sport that nearly took his life.
Where can I find this book translated into English?
I believe in the rule of "never judge someone until you are in his place" so I am not judging Hall. He deserves the highest esteem for his cleanup efforts and respect for his mountaineering acheivements. I am simply stating that the failure to turn around at the pre appointed time or even a bit later (as 3 of his clients did without any prompting) was the main cause of the disaster.
Incredible description of climb/climbers.
Someone should make a documentary about the sherpas of Mount Everest. If made with passion and skill, it would be nominated for an Oscar because it is such an untold story, it would spread like wildfire
I just wonder how amazing the summit can be when your brain is swollen to the point of blindness with your fingers and toes burning off. It must be exquisite, the fact that people listen to these stories of painful desolation and death, yet pay tens of thousands to attempt it anyway.
“When your brain is swollen to the point of blindness” “fingers and toes burning”
Why climb the mountain? Because it’s there.
Everest has a death rate currently close to only 1% clearly u have no clue what you're talking about
Zach m death rate less than 1% yes, but summit percentage is no where near that.
Ever climbed one? You'll see why people do it. You find out that limits you thought you had don't really exist, and that you are more capable than you thought you were, by, like, a LOT.
S F I DONT NEED TO PUT MY LIFE INTO CRITICAL DANGER BY CLIMBING EVEREST TO KNOW I CAN DO ANYTHING IF I HAVE TO.
I was going to outline what allegedly happened as recorded by Jon Krakauer but decided to advise you to read "Into Thin Air" instead. It gives the best picture of what happened on that summit.
Well said. Krakauer is a journalist who knows how to spin a tale to sell books!
Krakauer wrote a book about the fundamentalist Mormon's called "Under The Banner of Heaven". Not an outdoor adventure story. I definitely liked "Into Thin Air"
Incredible human stories. Amazing and sad.
Humans are awesome
I would like to hear more about the 3 heroic men of this story. Anatoli Buukerev who went out by himself 3 times on that night and saved 3 lives. Beck Weathers who endured the worst hell imaginable and was left for dead. That part of his story we know. And then there is the pilot of the helicopter. He did what was thought to be impossible twice. The first time he had flown up to evacuate Beck. But Beck gave up his ride so that another climber could be taken down first. That someone who endured what he did. To have the injuries he had. To give up what might be your only chance to be taken to safety is the greatest act of selfless humanity I have ever heard of.
I cannot understan why you would call Beck Weathers a HERO, when all he did was put so many other peoples lives in danger...and ultimately, they lost their own lives trying to help him...while he LIVED!!!
I do not wish that he perished as well...but, he was the reason others perished. He refused to accept reality, he demanded to be taken to the top...while putting others in extreme danger...ultimate death.
if you have ever climbed mountains, life or death possibilities, you would NOT call Beck a hero.
Un believable!
@@shereef3823 it's amazing they were able to do brain scans on Beck while he was on the mountain...
So sad! 😔
Watch Storm Over Everest (1996). It has interviews with many of the people who were involved in the disaster. Its really interesting.
Yes, you realize how selfish and pathetic many of them are especially with their fellow climbers.
People who climb Everest rank at the bottom among true adventurers such as the rest of the mountaineering world who would never have anything to do with the shit pile that Everest has become and the shittier people that it attracts.
@@govelasco agreed. People like Lipton were practically carried up the damn mountain. No coordination between groups and tons of people being on the mountain who have zero business being up there. The bottlenecks at Hillary's step and others is the killer.
That username though
good video, amazing story
Mother nature, often times, has the last word
Correction she always had the last word as our bodies return to nature in the end