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Having read John Krakauer's excellent account of this event, two of my favorite quotes come to mind: "The word "experienced' often refers to someone who's gotten away with doing the wrong thing more frequently than you have." Laurence Gonzales "Deep Survival" ********************************************************* "ln all this world there is nothing so easily squandered And once gone, so completely last as life." Kenneth Fearing, "Any Man's Advice To His Son."
1996 Everest was Scott Fischer’s first time as an Mt. Everest Guide; he had failed twice to personally summit Everest. In 1994 he did summit but not as a guide. 1996 was the first time ever, and sadly the last, he guided Everest. Charlottes Fox was the person who gave Sandy Pittman the life saving injection on their descent and Neal and Anatoli both were responsible for saving lives; specifically Pittman
Extremely unfortunate that you're just regurgitating Krakauer's slanted version of events. You ought to read ALL the accounts of those on the mountain. And you ought to review the many controversies left in the wake of Krakauer's other books, and the lies he's been caught in. The short of it is you'll find Krakauer is a seductively good writer, but a deeply flawed and morally lacking person. His modesty routine is a facade for a guy with huge ego and an inability to admit his moral failings. Ironically, the two people from the events of May 1996 who got by far the lionshare of media attention were the two with the biggest axes to grind - Beck Weathers and Krakauer.
@@biscaynediver thanks for your thoughts and insights. I admittedly have not read Into Thin Air in ten years. I looked for it in a box I stored it in when we moved, but couldn't find it. My wife brought one home from the library for me....I'll get to it. I did truly love The Climb, as well. I will clarify why I say that I loved Into Thin Air: it's not in the least that I agree with him on his take of everything that happened. I loved it because of his raw take on the underbelly of an industry and obsession that most books leading up to it kowtowed to. He exposed the truth behind the veil that is Everest. Your comment is very good and I appreciate it. I am considering a Beck Weathers video and don't disagree that there is a hell of a lot more to his story there than a hero coming home then doing talks for $50,000, inspiring audiences in awe of his survival. The axe to grind comment, I'm curious....please elaborate. Thanks for watching
What we should learn from this story is exactly what you point out: that key decisions are difficult to make in the death zone while fatigued, thus turnaround times that are decided on while clear headed must be respected absolutely.
Dear Everest Mystery, 🇨🇦 here from Jasper National Park. Your video has moved me to comment. For context; Caver here: took many years to accumulate memories of top 8 of Canada’s deepest and 7 longest. My partners and I lived by “ you are only as strong as your weakest link” If one called a rout hours in , we would turn. There is always another day. Thank you for your channel and your insights; very educational and much appreciated!
Cavers are another breed altogether! My friend Mark Synnott did a feature for Nat Geo in Uzbekistan's Dark Star cave and he gained a new perspective, that's for sure. Thanks for taking the time to comment, great having you here!
I miss visiting Bannf💔❤️🩹 I moved, and things didn't go so smoothly, so it will be a while. So glad I was able to bring my dog to enjoy the smells before she died (we adopted a senior dog, tried to give her a great retirement ❤️🐕🦺). Someday we'll be back...🥰
I was living in Seattle in 1996 and became obsessed with learning what had gone so wrong on Everest that day. I now live in North Bend. There's a memorial bench on the Little Si trail that honors Doug Hansen, the USPS worker, who died on Everest in 1996.
Frankly the harsh reality in climbing customary behavior/etiquette is leave them. So obviously Rob had a heart of gold. I really feel Rob would have saved Scott. But he chose to die with Doug...?? SMH
I remember that so vividly I was waiting for my kids dentist appointment and started reading.. Into Thin Air...Rob Hall was the tour guide with Doug Hansen..it was his second attempt and Rob really wanted him to Summit..A freak storm came in and they died coming down.. Scott Fisher and so many experienced climbers died that Year 💔💔💔🙏
Thank you for sharing Scott's story. Somewhere i read about his life from childhood up to his death. He truly seemed like a good man. Rest in peace Scott.
I truly wish I could have met him....while he may have gone over the line, his charisma and climbing abilities must have been fascinating to be in the presence of
Nice guys aren’t perfect. NOBODY is. And nice guys make mistakes. I can’t really agree that White got Scott killed was his being a nice guy. It was his arrogance and lack of humility that killed him. Sometimes clients don’t need a nice guy, they need the truth. And sometimes that means not accepting them as a client at all. There’s no doubt, he had a good heart. he wanted the best for everybody. But sometimes the best is the truth. Sometimes failure is winning.
@@EverestMystery Thom, if you haven't read Robert Birkby's book "Mountain Madness Scott Fischer & a life lived on high" I highly recommend it. I just bought another hard copy from amazon was under $25. If I remember correctly the digital copy was $8. Definitely paint's a much more accurate picture of who Scott was vs any content I've see on YT.
Awww, I hadn't heard this. I only became aware of him through learning about this tragedy but everything I've seen points to him being quite a decent fellow. RIP
Being a climber here in the Pacific Northwest. I’ve had a few interactions with people who knew Scott, I never met him but the consensus with all those that did seems to be that he was a genuine, good guy. Just very unfortunate about his passing. Appreciate the video and information. I just subscribed. Great channel, thank you.
I highly recommend David Breshears book "High Exposure". In the book he makes the point about how reduce the risk of dying: When picking a turn around time, it means stop immediately climbing up and turn back down. It does not mean, think about turning around. He writes about forcing himself to turn around a few meters short of reaching the top of one of Seven Summits. It would have taken him 20-30 minutes to go the extra distance, but he had seen climbers die because they went beyond their turn around time, and many died after reaching the summit, but had nothing left to survive the decent. The goal is not to just to reach the top, but to return alive.
The fact that his team got everyone down tells me Scott Fisher had put together an amazing team. Too bad he didn't take care of himself first. Hopefully lessons were learned about that storm and lives lost. I remember hearing about it on the news. I had just had surgery and I was resting and watching a lot of news. I can remember when I was growing up what a big deal it was to summit Everest. There would be newd stories on TV and in thr newspapers when it happened.
The 1996 season was the first time I was following along online. I remember sitting at my dining room table to check the progress & was stunned to read the news of the tragedy. I really appreciate you bringing these stories to us in such a thoughtful way. Thank you.
@@roymunson1I don’t think anyone was posting hourly or daily reports online in 1996. I mean in 2000 the internet was somewhat useless so, not sure how “following the 1996 Everest disaster” online was even possible?
The positive message and general care and decency this channel radiates never ceases to make me feel good. Thanks for all of your constant hard work in recording the history and culture of the mountains.
What I loved about this video was there was no blame - so Many people have been ,Team Krakauer’ or team ‘Boukreev in terms of the accounts of both - and laying the blame without knowing the facts or being in that situation - like You said , and you’ve been there …your barely functioning at that height -- very insightful
@@DD-gi6kx I didn’t say that - I stated if you look again , there was no blame in the video - as for your separate question , the only ones who can answer that are those who were on the hill that day. Nobody else knows so any views / comments / stone throwing is purely speculative , and that’s a dangerous thing
@@DD-gi6kx I feel like Lion’s share of the “blame” needs to be laid at everyone’s feet, and no one’s. They endeavored on an expedition where every year 6.5 people die if every 100 that summit. Better choices could have been made sure, and we can point fingers at people in hindsight. But we can’t say with any certainty that the entire team could have survived the storm. A storm that was no one’s fault. It’s an inherently very dangerous thing to do and everyone knew that going in.
Yea I hate all that too. I heard before reading Anatolis version, that he didn't like JKs version. Yes it was different because he had a different experience and is a different person. There is multiple viewpoints and no one is blameless. We have everything to learn from this experience.
They clearly try to place some blame on Sandy Pittman. She was not inexperienced, she has 6/7 summits under her belt and it was her 3rd attempt at submitting Everest. Her story in today’s Everest wouldn’t even cause somebody to raise an eyebrow.
It sounds like the climbers forgot the main rule.. at 2pm they have to head down! Period! Ambition and egos got in the way of decisions. After watching a few videos of that climb. My heart goes out to Beck. Being left for dead a couple times, but the drive to survive saved his own life! Thanks for sharing this view.
Nobody talks about that pilot that took a helicopter up that mountain not once, but TWICE to get those people down. He flew up and sledded it back down. Weird they know that is a possibility, but never use it. And Miss Peach, who was prepared and willin’ to make it a global issue to get Mr Beck home.
@@samanthab1923 in the Mill House podcast (about 3 years ago), Neal describes that at the first set of ropes up to the South Summit Lopsang Sherpa was supposed to fix the ropes but when Neal encountered Lopsang he was dragging Sandy Pittman up instead (and Lopsang was climbing without oxygen). Neal was with the other clients and fixed those ropes himself so they could continue up toward Hillary Step and summit. Then they encountered Anatoli and he/Neal fixed the HS ropes. Not sure where other Sherpa were. Anyhow that's just one account of many...it was a good listen.
@@samanthab1923Mike Groom & Andy were sitting for 2 hours on their butts along with both teams in South Summit waiting for sherpas to rope up Hillary Step...they were burning precious Oxygen & daylight
I had read the books and watched the films that you suggested at the beginning of your talk, but I want you to know that I found this so fascinating even though I knew all about it already. Your tale was riveting , thank you.
Thanks for doing these videos. I'm an acquaintance of Jochen Hemmleb, that's how I've become interested in mount everest (climbing has always be an interest of mine, even though I'll never be on that professional level). I've soon learned about the 1996 drama. I really have no opinion on my own on this, since a) I'm not an expert and b) many unfortunate factors came together in this situation. I'm just incredibly sorry for those who lost their lives and their families. I do, nevertheless think it shows that sometimes it's better to let go, even of your ambition, instead of pushing through. If you already pushed yourself over the edge, don't go any further. Sometimes it's difficult to realize and accept that pure will in itself won't be enough. But it is important to teach yourself that too. Just a thought. Apart from this - thank you for making the internet a kinder and friendlier place. It touches me that there are still decent people online who try to act kind towards anyone. I just found you and really love to watch your videos every evening. I will become a member for sure.
It's great having you here, thank you for the great comment and kind words. Very cool that you know Jochen! I'm happy you found the channel and appreciate your thoughts on the atmosphere I endeavor to keep here. Cheers from the US!
One of my closest friends growing up is the son of MacGillivary, of MacGillivary Freeman Films. A group of us were always on the beach daily, and I vividly recall being able to say hi to the IMAX team at Basecamp one day during one of his dad's calls. The movie was never intended to be the blockbuster it became, but rather an educational documentary like the rest of their vast collection of films. It was the tragedy that unfolded on the mountain that year that drew the world's attention wanting to know and see what happened. Not sure why, but that memory of screaming hi into this huge bulky "cell" phone to the team at Everest stuck with me all these years....
I think Scott and Rob were AWESOME climbers, but terrible leaders. Their job was not to summit Everest. Their job was to bring all lives back. Turning people back even if it means they don't summit. . You wonder how this would have ended if Neil didn't volunteer to set ropes. When the leaders aren't leading you are up there with amateurs. Doug should have been turned back long before. A good leader leads. Rob lost his life needlessly. I forget the name of the gentleman that Discovery followed as a leader, but he lead from base camp. If ever I would have climbed it would have been with him. Shallow thoughts killed many people and changed many lives. Bec never pointed a finger, yet his life was changed and Peachs almost lost her husband. Another great video Tom!!
One of my observations while learning about this is that communication and organization among the professionals (leaders and guides) was not strong. So that supports your thought.
Goes to show you that we all have an expiration date. Unfortunately we don’t get to plan our own. Human error is well, human. We aren’t invincible like we would love to believe. Although his passing really sucked, he also helped inspire another generation of mountaineering.
Yes, he did inspire so many. I found myself in mourning almost while doing this video. I was battling it out on a mountain in Pakistan at the time this was taking place.... The story is a sad tale. Thank you for watching and for sharing your thoughts!
I remember after that day and the news got out I became an Everest nut. I read what I could find including the books you mentioned. I believe Scott thought he was invincible which in the end led to him dying. It was Rob that I was more sad for. He died out of love and caring imo. And here it is 28 yrs later and after all these yrs I am finally making my way to Everest. I will be leaving the States on May 9th. I'm only doing EBC, then heading over to Island Peak. This will be my first climb so I must start out with a safe climb. Altitude will also play a part so that is why I choose IP. By the way I am 60 yrs old now so this trip has been a long time coming.
And I didn't mean for it to sound like I wasn't sad for Scott. It was horrible and a terrible day. I do remember shedding tears for all involved. With Scott and the way he did things and feeling invincible was what made him the man he was. I was truly sad at his passing.
I have always found the 1996 tragedy to be particularly heartbreaking. Scott Fisher and Rob Hall were both so skilled, talented, and knowledgeable, and they established the 2 pm turn-around time for rock-solid reasons. If only they had adhered to it. Fewer people would have reached to summit that season, but we would not be here discussing how many people died. So very sad.
Fischer was fighting altitude sickness on the day. He should recognized that and stayed at Camp 4. Alternatively, he could have hired someone that would realize he was far too slow, and turned him around at the Balcony.
@@JohnSmith-ux3tt Yes. Absolutely. By all accounts he was impaired and definitely not performing at his usual level. He had top-notch guides to assist his clients (and their actions were heroic) but it is odd that no one said, "Scott, something is wrong with you today, buddy, and you need to go down." Or maybe someone did and the message wasn't strong enough to sink in. Obviously, he didn't recognize his own limitations on that day. Worst possible place to make that mistake.
@@LisaF777 The sherpas not putting the lines up on time was pretty ridiculous, and it's disappointing that Fisher and Hall didn't instill some discipline in them... was such an unnecessary cost to both teams. Not turning around on-time was clearly a result of the social / business pressure on the two teams and cost both team leaders their lives (as well as many others). The buck really stops with the team leaders.
Thanks for this. How could I ever forget that day.. I was in the office of MM. I'm the guy who dropped him off at the airport for this expedition. Sure miss this infectious man.. . For a view of Scott read Robert Birkby's book "SCOTT FISCHER MOUNTAIN MADNESS & a life lived on high" Getting Outside magazine involved was Scott.. another day I will never forget is when Outside mag. said they're going with Rob's AC. But shortly after Scott being Scott finds and pulls a rabbit (Sandy P) outa the proverbial hat. (saving the day yet again) I don't feel people appreciate how much of a challenge filling a climbing roster at the time was. At the time there was not much public reach to advertise expeditions other than little adds in the back of climbing and outdoor magazines. So like it or not (in my biased view) Scott was key to letting the world know about Everest. There were 2 fatalities on the MM team Scott and Lopsang's uncle 2 months later in a hospital in Kathmandu. Which I feel was certainly a stress on all on the sherpas who already were upset by SHP's fling on the mountain. One last key factor and another day I will never forget at the MM office was the day I brought the crappy 2way radios back from If my memory serves) swallows nest trekking supplies. Crappy because that's all the budget allowed. Yes believe it or not even at those rates of $30-60k per client. Scott was known to haggle.. even to the point of loss meaning if it cost him $ in he just wanted to "make it happen" (MM mantra). A general contractor that I had done many subs for who is family with Pete and Klev said "Scott just over did himself". Thanks again Thom,
I guess I don’t understand why making Everest trendy is a good thing. Seems like a very dark story about ego, and people green washing the damage they do to sell environmental awareness is sketchy at best…
@@standdownrobots_ihaveoldglory green washing?? You mean the fact that MM removed 5000 lbs of garbage and 150 O2 canisters?? That needs to be done to this day and I feel if Scott (who initiated the idea) wouldn't have perished those efforts would have continued and by now it'd be policy to "leave no trace". The Napalese Gov is talking about "blue bags" to defecate into and each climber required to carry it back to Base camp with them. To say "a dark story about ego" I'd guess you are not a climber. Second it's ultimately up to the Nepalese Gov and of course they like the $$. I certainly am not implying making Everest trendy is good. I'm saying it was Rob & Scott who effectively did it. Unfortunately neither are around to see what the fruits of their labor have done.
Lol environmental damage. Some bodies and some trash. Big deal. Humans are so funny everything comes from the earth will return to the earth. Earth will eat It all some day. The one place on earth that humans footprint is a non factor is the top of everest. It be one think if you were crying about rivers and oceans, or woodlands being destroted and gmo plant replaced , or mass pollution from chemical pesticides. No you're crying about something that effects no one
I think so too. All his client had summited, he didn't feel well and was exhausted. There was really no need for him to summit himself in order to make his first MM success. Perhaps pressure from the attendant media became too much of a part regarding his view of MM's accomplishment on Mt. Everest. It's really heartbreaking listening to him in his last interview. Both Scott and Rob Hall had the best intetions for themselves and their clients. What happened was "Life", all we have is now.
@@somjasa To be candid I think Doug Hansen had a lot to do with the reasoning. Consider he was dubbed "the rescuer". Scott was a very selfless man who if on a mountain anywhere would instantly prioritize helping anyone in trouble.
This was the event that captured my interest in mountaineering, through Krakauer's book. It has culminated with me being a week away from starting my own attempt to climb Everest.
Wow, can you keep us updated on the new regulations (the poop bags, the downsized 'luxury' one-person tents w/ tvs & mattresses)? What outfit are you going with? Oh and what country are you from! I'm Australian, in Fremantle, WA. Do you have mountaineering experience?
Thank you for your video. So much attention has been focused on Hall's team that I appreciated the information about Scott Fisher. May I suggest that David Breashears' Storm over Everest is also an excellent video to hear more updated information about some of the climbers' perspectives about their ordeal? Maybe you mentioned it? Thanks again!
@@I.Love.Dogs.More.Than.PeopleAP Reporting: "Breashears was found unresponsive at his home in Marblehead, Massachusetts, on Thursday, Ellen Golbranson said. She said he died of natural causes but 'the exact cause of death remains unknown at this time.'”
Don’t know where I’ve been but this channel is new to me and I’m hooked. I’m talking can’t wait to get a hot shower on this stormy night to hunker down and binge watch….thank you and new subbie!
my parents sat beside him on an overseas flight and he said to my dad "we got the big E dialed". My father who was the doctor one of the first expeditions from the tibetan side in the very early 80s and had talked to reinhol messner after his solo climb was deeply skeptical. You said it all -trying to make money from people who cant even put crampons on is not smart in the himalayas
You are awesome in your knowledge of these stories you talk us through. After listening to your soothing voice i am as close to feeling i was there. Amazing work my friend please keep it going.
Тhе biggest fault at least for Fisher group tragedy is on Fisher himself. As you said we would never know why Fisher being in bad shape kept climbing toward the summit while his clients were descending.
Having worked for him at the time I wish he wouldn't have.. in fact i remember feeling a sinking feeling in my stomach at the office when we heard after bringing Dale down that Scott was going back up. But knowing Scott I feel he did because he wanted everyone to make it back especially Doug which I figured knew would be a problem. Not to mention Pittman who was a problem from the start.
@@jjzap2935 Good points. And when he passed clients coming down he was obviously not thinking clearly as noone really can't up there so why were the office not assisting with directions to get people DOWN?? Even down at EBC people were in summit & marketing fever as at the time it seemed nothing could be wrong with that yellow brick way to summit established (by fisher).
@@henrikk2713 there was no direct line to Everest, We were just getting updates from EBC. I have no idea what you think was possible at the time..?? Further why would Scott call the office from Everest even if he could, wtf could we do from the other side of the planet ??
@@jjzap2935 so how could they keep radio Rob right up until his death bed crappy radios & all? surely they could have radiod scott too before he was too long gone...
Thanks very much for the video and your thoughts. I've visited Scott's memorial in Nepal and it was a cold, windy, snowy day with very low visibility. Made him seem closer in some way. I admire his spirit tremendously. After reading many books on the 1996 event, I think it was inevitable that something like this would happen as climbing Everest increased in popularity. Whenever we humans start to feel that we are invincible and forget how dwarfed we are by nature, she has a way of pulling us back in line.
A couple thoughts/questions… It seems like you’re being a bit unfair to Pittman, mentioning that she was a weak climber. But she wasn’t a real amateur… i believe she had at least a couple of the 7 summits completed. It does seem that she was struggling that day, but i dont think she was as weak and inexperienced as you say. Also regarding Fischer, didnt he have some stomach or liver condition? I dont know where, but i thought i read that his stomach was part of the issues he was having that day. Unfortunately Boukkreev seems to have caused some of Fischers problems by not being as active a guide (so Fischer went up and down more than he should have). But of course he saved Pittman, Fox, and at least one more person (Madsen?), so hes not the bad guy by any means. its just unfortunate that Boukreev and Fischer weren’t clearer and on the same page about their roles.
You gotta be friggin kidding me! She probably paid Lobsang a premium to haul her lazy ass up that mountain and that is one of the main reasons for this tragedy happening in the first place. I hate narcissists.
Pittman seemed to be made the scapegoat. There was her "cappuccino machine" which was just a coffee pot like others carried and packets of instant powdered coffee that was cappuccino-flavoured. She was only short-roped for about an hour, yet some make it seem like it was for the whole ascent. I think a lot of the condemnation of her was misogynistic and classist.
You did an excellent job explaining how this tragedy unfolded just by narrating in chronological order. Very easy to follow. Well done! On a side note, there has been a fairly recent (about 8 months ago) interview with Sandy Pittman posted here on youtube. It's quite interesting...she discusses her version of how everything happened, how she was blamed in the media (starting with Krakauer's book, though she doesn't name him) and how she turned to drinking and drugs to cope with the backlash. I can't remember the channel that posted the interview, but all i did was searched her name and found it. I've tuned in to many of your videos...great channel here! RIP to those who lost their lives during that storm.
But she was catering to death by Scott Fisher, trying the serpas story some where carrying her and I dont know if all “ paying “ customers were that catered to the extreme like she was.
Like the person with the previous comment, I too have read several books and watched a few documentaries on this tragic event, but I also still learned something from your video. It's such a poignant story, and you told it with understanding for the situation and for those involved.
I typically pass by on videos where the host is mostly talking, but i listened to this whole video. You did an amazing job finding factoids that aren’t in the major reports. Great script friend! Thoroughly enjoyed it and after watching videos like this I have such a respect for those who make this trek!
Fantastic video, fantastic narration and thank you for being both very descriptive and factual, using the natural environment for drama and being respected to everyone involved
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and narration....the voice has done me well in many a telephone conversation, let me tell you lol
@@EverestMystery I think both the leaders should have ensured that the ropes were set up by the Sherpas ON TIME, should not have allowed climbers who were "weak and elderly", to go on their teams, and actually, they also should not have allowed Pittman on the climb, or Krakeur, as they both put pressure into the teams regarding the publicity and whether it would be positive or negative. The turn around time should have been kept, no matter what, any weak climbers, taken down the mountain and not encouraged or short roped up. They both should have agreed that having the PR members (Pittman and Krakeur) was going to be dangerous for them both. The fact they both did not do this, shows that they were not the good leaders people thought they were. They both, did not put safety FIRST.
Thank u! Excellent summary. What’s surprising was that both Fischer and hall turned back clients on previous climbs for not meeting the 2 pm deadline. It’s sad that sound judgement gave way to hubris.
My wife and I thoroughly enjoy your podcasts. It is so refreshing to learn about these climbing events from someone who is a professional climber, and who tells the truth!
Great synopsis, Sir! I just read Krakauer’s book. I’m not a mountain climber, but in the Air Force, we had to do hypobaric chamber training every 5 years. This was so we could recognize the insidious onset of hypoxia at altitude, and know how we personally react in an environment with little oxygen. Doing this, I realized quickly that I would have make a terrible Sherpa. We would also study mishaps & learn from them, and there was usually a “chain of events” leading to a crash. That seems to be the case here, too. Tragic!
Always so eloquently put. I would of been 5 when this happened but as I've commented before, it was the first event that got me interested in mountaineering. After being diagnosed with Bipolar type 2 in 2022 I became a recluse for 4 months. Not leaving the house for 6 weeks. But it was covid and the time above that allowed me time to explore the mountains of Nepal/Himalayas. Scott's legacy goes on in books, movies and documentaries. I loved hearing about Ed V and Scott's ascent of K2. He and Ed offer great advice for not just the mountains but life too. However, still to this day do I believe Sandy P shouldn't of been allowed up there. Yes you could say the same for others but she's was an obvious one. Thank you once again for this content. Always so empathetic.
Thanks for watching and thank you for sharing a bit of your story. I'm very familiar with Bipolar 2, and know it can completely destroy a person (and is heartbreaking for those around that person). Your take on Sandy P is on point...there are so many angles to the story, really. I'm really glad you found the channel :)
You sort of say the same thing in your conclusion here but I really love how Jon krakauer in the end on Into Thin Air sums up wether the mountaineering community learned from the 96 Everest disaster by talking about the mistakes that were made within the very next year that lead to more unnecessary deaths from poor judgment. I don’t remember exactly how he worded it but I remember it being a great conclusion to the book.
Fantastic Video! In David Breashears 2008 documentary, Storm Over Everest, it is actually mentioned that through interview that Makalu Gao continued to ascend because the fallen Taiwanese climber was the one who wanted the team to reach the summit the most. Makalu felt in the moment that the best way to honor him would be continue the climb and reach the summit. Highly recommend the documentary (free on TH-cam) as it has first hand accounts from Makalu, David, Neil, Mike Groom, Beck and others on both Rob Hall’s and Scott Fischer’s teams.
Thank you, this deeper level of intel is important. In another future video I'll expound upon that situation....I went pretty much with David being quite upset about the decision made to ascend. Thanks for watching! I'll check the vid out that you suggest
Thank you for making this video. It’s the best take I’ve heard on what led to two of the most experienced climbers dying on the mountain they knew so well.
Living in Anchorage for over 40 years I was well aware of the climbing scene, heli skiing and all other mountain sports....Scott Fischer was well known amongst our group of friends and will always be remembered.
Just wanted to drop a comment to say I really appreciate your videos! Everest stories fascinate me - not so much the mountain itself but the limits to which it pushes the people who climb it. Your perspective is really interesting and I'm really enjoying your channel :D
Thanks so much, I appreciate that you took the time to comment and let me know. I love bringing people together and sharing stories like this. Welcome and thank you!
The first time I ever saw a real mountain was in New Hampshire in June 1996. A lot of people were talking about Scott Fischer. I never knew who he was until i started down the Everest rabbit hole a couple of weeks ago. Scott flew too close to the surface of the sun. Great video. Also, Storm over Everest is the most beautifully made documentary I've seen.
Man, I wasn’t even ten years old in ‘96. I vaguely remember my dad talking about something on Everest. One of the first places I ever decided I never wanted to be.
I have read the story in Into Thin Air and been fascinated by the terrible decisions made, by people who were so experienced. The tragedy on Everest that season will hope fully never be repeated, but we all know deaths will still occur. Thank you for this video.
Fischer (and Hall) let ambition overwhelm knowledge and experience. This is particularly evident by two glaring mistakes: (1) the breakdown in communication regarding rope fixing above camp 4 (significantly increasing exposure time high on the mountain) and (2) the abandonment of the well-established and frequently emphasized 2 pm turnaround time.
Good video. I read into thin air many years ago and had forgotten about the entire story. Great job pointing out all the things that went wrong. So sad that two iconic guides like Hall and Fischer are no longer with us.
It’s so unfortunate that Rob and Scott, two well respected leaders of the climbing community, allowed themselves to be lured away from the responsibility to protect their clients. Lured away by commercial competition.
Love your channel! I've been obsessed with this story ever since reading "Into Thin Air". There were many mistakes and poor decisions made that day, but ultimately Scott Fisher and Robb Hall must be held accountable for the disaster. They knew better, but did not follow their own rules. They were superb mountaineers and charismatic individuals, but it was their poor leadership skills that resulted in so many deaths, including their own. One can criticize Anatoli Boukreev for choosing to climb without oxygen that day. It required him to descend immediately after summitting, leaving the paid clients on his team without badly needed support on their descent. But it was Anatoli's heroics that night, to find and bring in stranded climbers, that prevented several more deaths. RIP David Breshears.
Ive seen several videos on this day. I thank you for clarifying a lot of what happened. I never really understood what all went wrong, you really made it clear, Thom!
Really, really well-done video. With you're closing analysis, I learned details I had never known before. The drive to bolster his business probably can't be overstated. But as I was listening to you, another thought came... When we experience something so amazing, so beautiful, so life-altering, there is an innate need (at least this is true for myself) to share that with others. You want them to be allowed to experience the gift that nature has given you. That is a powerful thing.
You make a good point. This is how I feel about teaching horsemanship to new students and helping them get to eventually experience a long ride out in nature.
Great video. I appreciated your measured tone with respect to this tragedy. This is a good illustration of what happens at the intersection of Safety and Commerce. Both Fisher and Hall were more than qualified and fit enough to get to the summit and back on their own. However, the same cannot be said of many or their clients. Pittman certainly had no business being on the mountain. The litany of mistakes, the failure to honor their previous turn-back time, the diminishing margin for error - all combined to create the disaster. The storm caught them by surprise, but it's no secret that big mountains "create their own weather". The financial pressure to accept unqualified clients and guide them to the summit amid great media fanfare is a perfect recipe for disaster when the weather turns on you. These climbs require exceptional physical and mental stamina. You can blather all day long about having determination and a "can-do" spirit, but if your legs crap out on the descent because you simply run out of gas, you're likely going to die. You get clumsy, you get slow, maybe run out of oxygen - it's a cascading series of setbacks that can overwhelm even the best climbers. The deaths of both Fisher and Hall are a testimony to that. Krakauer, no slouch when it comes to climbing, wrote an excellent and sympathetic book, but the fact that he properly appreciated the commercial trap that Fisher and Hall fell into resulted in a lot of criticism from people in the climbing community who didn't like the very accurate conclusions he drew. I think the intervening years have demonstrated that the growing commercial fiasco on Everest is a continuing disaster waiting to happen. Moulton Avery
A thorough and thoughtful assessment of events leading to the death of Scott Fischer. Most people don't realize that just a couple of days before the summit bid he had descended from camp II to escort a sick client to base camp and then immediately climbed back to rejoin his team. Other than weather, exhaustion was probably the biggest factor. On the other hand, his job has an 95% mortality rate.
Thank you for your work. The fact that you narrate it so well, and appear talking on camera, is a treasure, in this era of mediocre AI generated TH-cam Channels. 🙏🏻
I think you’re right on with your assessment Thom, visions of fame and glory was the overriding factor in these senseless deaths! Great video, professionally done! I look forward to more! 😎
My thoughts are with the friends, family and those who crossed the path in life of David Breashears. Wishing all of them the best in this difficult time. Many thanks, Thom.
I was fortunate to know him, work with him and share some intense conversations about Everest and beyond, one in particular I recall was in Namche Bazaar after the Everest was closed in 2014. I'm frankly stunned, truth be told. It's a big loss.
Wow and thank you? Hearkens to a scene from Dumb & Dumber when Lloyd Christmas asks an elderly lady in a cart to watch his things for him while he goes to get change for a dollar and he says to her" “Hey, I guess they’re right. Senior citizens, although slow and dangerous behind the wheel, can still serve a purpose.”
@@elifvlogs not at all my friend, my wife and I had a little chuckle this morning. Truth be told, I'm no youth! :) thanks so much for being a part of the channel, it's good having you here
Sorry did you say savvy businessman? At the cost of his own life? Nope. A savvy businessman in the extreme climbing world gets to come home and spend their money. Next level genius business was a tattoo artist who hiked out to Everest base camp with a bag full of guns, needles, ink and no intention to climb the mountain. Dude made a bundle of cash giving tattoos to all the heroes and zeroes who wanted fresh ink to commemorate their journey. Imagine how much a person will pay for a tattoo if they’re willing to pay to climb to the top then triple it! That being said, great video! You have a new subscriber! Looking forward to viewing more of your videos. Wish you added more pictures and/or videos during the narration.
Taking the cog railway of Pike's Peak (14,115ft) on a beautiful blue sky day, all I could think about on the summit, while feeling the oxygen deprivation, was these peaks such as Everest, K2, Annapurna etc are more than twice the height. These mountains can be killers. I loved Krakauers Into Thin Air. Great breakdown of this tragic story. RIP to all who perished.
Everything that could go wrong did go wrong. It is amazing to me though that for how skilled and methodical Rob Hall was about the procedure of climbing Everest that all of this happened. I have never done so much reading about this tragedy in my life. It's very interesting yet so sad.
I was obsessed with Everest when I was a younger man. If you were like me, read Into Into Thin Air. It will give you a very good idea of what life is like in the high mountains.
The most shocking thing for me is that there were climbers with Makulu Gau who didn't even know how to attach crampons onto their boots. I don't like to single individuals out but i think if Sandy Hill Pitman was not being short-roped by Lopsang, the fixed ropes between the South Summit and the Hillary Step would've been up much faster and they would've been lower when the storm began. And Rob Hall, Rob died because of Doug Hansen. Doug wasn't capable of making the round trip. Ed Visteurs pleaded with Rob to leave Doug, Rob could've got down on his own as could Andy Harris. Rob left his heavily pregnant wife a widow. Rob broke his own turnaround rules to get Doug to the top. Doug made it to the summit but he was wiped out, even full tanks of O2 were not getting Doug down. There's no doubt that it was a phenomenal storm and that was the reason for some lives lost. But it was the decisions between two ambitious guides that in the end cost them their own lives, the life of Doug Hansen, the life of Andy Harris and i believe Nasuko Yamba would've been saved without the hold-up with the fixed ropes. And Beck Weathers who didn't summit due to a problem with his eyes could've been spared the life-changing injuries he suffered. The South African team on the South Col didn't cover themselves in glory refusing to help, but that's another story. Scott (and Rob) over-promised and broke their own rules. That's why it's better to go with a stern leader like Russel Brice, guides have to be able to convince climbers with summit fever to turnaround. As Ed Visteurs said 'Getting to the top is optional, getting back down is mandatory!!
Excellent comment... It mirrors my own thoughts exactly....There was a solo climber on Everest at the same time.... Although his attempt for the summit was a day or so earlier...He was a brilliant young climber from Sweden who had cycled from his home country to Everest hauling all his kit on a trailer... He was close to summiting but unlike Fisher and Hall he made the decision to turn around...He knew that had he carried on, he did not have the energies to get himself down... He therefore returned to base... When he had fully recovered he was able to make it to the top... Totally unassisted..no Sherpa, no oxygen... Totally solo.... Im sure you will know of this story . If not you must read his book .. Goran Kropp was his name.... Sadly died young in an innocuous accident not long after his epic climb on Everest...
It was Hansen's third attempt. Hall should have turned him around. Failure to "back off the plan" is a staple of outdoor adventure tragedies, and this one, blowing past the 2pm cutoff, is as classic as it gets.
They stayed on the top for almost 2 hours and well beyond the turnaround time and Scott Fisher made the disastrous decision to continue the summit 2 hours too late but you blame Sandy Pittman?! Ridiculous.
If it hadnt been for the endurance of Anatoli Bukreev there would have been deaths on Scotts team. Anatoli,who climbed without supplemental oxygen, was the clearest thinker and the real hero of Everest 96 and he justly deserved the award he was given. Despite what "moaner" Krakauer said in his book.
I read both of their books. Boukreev and Krakauer. I don’t know how any amateur climber like krakauer can judge Boukreev for decisions at altitude. You’re not supposed to help anyone. But as guides, they’re both heroes.
I don't know why you Boukreev supporters hate Krakauer so much. Krakauer has very little skin in the game and was fair to Anatoli in his book. Lots of mistakes were made that day and Anatoli was the only one who lost his **** over it... clearly he was being ultra-defensive because it could affect his career (your actions SHOULD affect your career). Anatoli's book didn't even consult any of the other climbers that day, so you have Krakauer's professional accounting of things through consulting everyone he could vs Anatoli's book which is just his own point of view. Any mistakes Anatoli made were specs of sand compared to the other mistakes made by the rest of the leadership.
Just love ur channel,i love everything about everest,what great man Rob hall was not leaving his client alone,and as u say Scott fisher was a good man,oh and i am absolutely obsessed with mallory and ervine mystery,Great job...
How did they reconcile having a strict turnaround time, but also a standing order to wait on the Summit until the team leader decides for everyone to start descending. That's messed up.
I liked the analysis in the video here; what I think was missing was the entire team understanding the plan then having group sync-points to adjust/replan when something started to change; so just clearer communication then. Especially when high altiude physical stress starts to fog the brain. Sounds like Scott, for example, was definitely no longer thinking clearly when he continued to summit as his team was descending and it was already past his turnaround time. There is also still some confusion about which sherpas were originally supposed to run that first fixed line when the other wasn't available because helping Sandy; in one account I saw, there were two that were supposed to do that and the one helping Sandy made sure they had his rope to do so.
Excellent video essay, thanks. I was in Peace Corps Nepal, hiking up in Solu Khumbu, in April-May 1995, and met the Rob Hall expedition, who asked me to take group photos of them. Weather didn't permit even an attempt that year, and I was very saddened to hear about the events of 1996.
Anyone who knows about this disaster, knows that. What we also know is that Sandy P had to be short-roped up the mtn which directly caused a cascade of time problems that led up to the tragedy. She also came off as totally obnoxious (bf and during) and ungrateful (after). So, she does come in for special scrutiny.
No, but I get the feeling that had she not been there it would have been different. Just taking the Sherpa out of the equation (to tow her up to the top) may have set off a chain of fatal events
Wonderful having you here. I truly loved the time I spent in Rawal Pindi. I had a magical experience in Pakistan and have told people on many occasions it is the most beautiful place I have ever visited.... Thanks for reaching out! Perhaps a jam session in Taos some day? :)
People blame them because they hypothesize that if Boukreev had used oxygen (which is now the standard that guides always use oxygen....but wasn't at the time) and if Fischer had been more rested, then they would have been able to save members on the other team. Ultimately, the other team wasn't their responsibility, although I'm sure if Fischer were rested and survived, and Boukreev were rested, both would have tried to save more people, and perhaps they would have. But its impossible to know for sure, maybe both would have then died tried to go back up and find Rob Hall and the postman. I think its fair to criticize/critique what they could have done differently, so those mistakes aren't made in the future, but they are certainly not to blame for anyone's death (well Fischer can probably be blamed for his own death, to some extent.)
@@thelogicaldanger my point was that there were other people on the mountain who are treated much more kindly, but made mistakes that led directly to deaths.
@@pindrop9536 I am not sure how you expected anyone to know that was your point, when the only people mentioned in your comment were Fischer 7 Boukreeve. you didn't even alude to anyone else, other than saying "their entire team survived." In your response, I have no idea who you are referring to when you say "other people on the mountain who are treated much more kindly." Fischer & Boukreeve were the paid guides, so of course its expected that they would receive more criticism than paying clients.
@@thelogicaldanger There were other groups who were far more inexperienced, decided to combine groups and dilute responsibility, continued taking clients after the turnaround time and pulled guides away from their clients. But I am stating that blame was unfairly aimed at the largely successful group, rather than those that failed and lost clients.
@@pindrop9536 I still have no idea what people you are talking about. Rob Hall? Him and Andy died, and they have both received plenty of criticism. The Indian group? American media focused pretty much on the groups with Americans in them, most people don't know there was an Indian group on the other side climbing. They know about Greenboots, but have no idea that was the year he died. Among mountain sources, I've seen plenty of criticism of the Indian group. The Chinese group? They did not have anyone die the day of the storm. So I really don't know who you are talking about, or why you insist on being vague. I mean, why bother commenting in the first place with vague comment that had nothing to do with your point, if you aren't going to elaborate on exactly who you think didn't get criticism, that should have got criticism.
Ever since the Titanic, disasters seem to have a hold on the public imagination. I have read and watched numerous accounts of this expedition, and the facts are that mountains are dangerous places. Anatoly Boukriev made heroic efforts here only to lose his life on another mountain himself. It is very sad when lives are risked for the sake of egos. I personally cannot see the attraction of climbing Everest simply because it is the highest, as it is also surely the dirtiest in more than one sense of the word.
Aside from this video, I have incidentally exchanged commentary with Michael Tracy. I find his knowledge of mountaineering and history of events to be lacking in content, information, and far from accurate. Our commentary was focused on sherpas while his responses showed ignorance to how mountaineering and the use of sherpas has changed and evolved, how clients being guided are now the majority and government mandates are requiring assigning sherpas to climbers, clients, and teams.This has lead to the sherpas’ having entitlement attitude towards climbers. He furthermore doesn’t understand the the training they have participated in learning comes from climbers and guides visiting their country through time and history. He also doesn’t understand sherpas and sherpas that assume guiding position are different people. Sherpas that have been educated and can assume guiding positions total far fewer individuals. Through my exposure to Michael I am now aware that his videos are a directed attack on this channel and Mark. Reflecting on his ignorance with commentary exchange, he should refrain from producing ANY videos. In our exchange, the 2012 -13 outburst of sherpas against Ueli, Jon and Simon were cited as examples to debate point of view. Then he included Messner in his comment which was outrageously out of line, considering history and timeframe. He doesn’t understand how misguided his interpretation is!!! Anyway, now would be a perfect time to produce the video we discussed in your last response to me.
Yeah. I've enjoyed some of his videos regarding Mallory but the Tracy video regarding this 1996 incident is a hardly veiled, tendentious attack on Krakauer, who he's painting as a fraud presumably jealous of Boukreev and trying scapegoat anybody but himself. Whole I can't vouch for Krakauer's character, his account is very measured and is in general agreement with Groom, Biedleman, and Breshears. Tracy even makes the statement: "Krakauer in one version helps fix ropes with Biedleman, and in another says he climbed ahead of Biedleman after helping with the ropes around the step and south summit. It's either one or the other: you are either climbing for the summit or fixing ropes. It can't be both." Why it can't be both isn't explained, and that elaborating on some retelling doesn't invalidate the original telling. At altitude the brain hardly works.
Well done! An important point I heard is that when a storm approaches the air pressure drops. Even LESS oxygen. And there was an incident where Andy Harris was asked to lower the oxygen flow on a climbers tank to conserve and he turned the control to higher. Harris had also reported that the oxygen tanks they cached were all empty. I feel that had Boukrev hadn't rested after his summit he couldn't have made two trips to get the climbers.
I didn't hear a mention of Scott Fisher's illness, which hit him during this expedition. Apparently he had an intestinal illness that had become chronic, as mentioned in "Into Thin Air." Being sick up there HAD to be another contributing factor.
Hey Thom! Maybe a little tribute to Dave B? He passed last week. Way too young. Did a lot of good in the higher camps in ‘96. Also…when I was climbing up in the PacNW circa 2000-2003, Dave Hahn, with whom I later did a Denali W Buttress with, said of Scott, ‘he takes a lot chances’. Not sure if they ever went on any expeds together(doubt it as they worked for different companies), but David said it. I’ll bet that it was others’ impressions of Scott that David was referring to.
Yes, I'm truly bummed that I didn't know about David at the time I'd posted this video....I would have included more about his legacy. Perhaps in another video about '96....that would be a place to do it. He was a cut above. Super interesting about what Dave H said to you. Dave knew (knows) his stuff....how cool you were on Denali with him. Talk about a legend!
Thanks for visiting! For more fascinating stories from @EverestMystery be sure to subscribe...click here: www.youtube.com/@everestmystery?sub_confirmation=1
Having read John Krakauer's excellent account of this event, two of my favorite quotes come to mind:
"The word "experienced' often refers to someone who's gotten away with doing the wrong thing more frequently than you have."
Laurence Gonzales "Deep Survival"
*********************************************************
"ln all this world there is nothing so easily squandered
And once gone, so completely last as life."
Kenneth Fearing, "Any Man's Advice To His Son."
1996 Everest was Scott Fischer’s first time as an Mt. Everest Guide; he had failed twice to personally summit Everest. In 1994 he did summit but not as a guide. 1996 was the first time ever, and sadly the last, he guided Everest. Charlottes Fox was the person who gave Sandy Pittman the life saving injection on their descent and Neal and Anatoli both were responsible for saving lives; specifically Pittman
Extremely unfortunate that you're just regurgitating Krakauer's slanted version of events. You ought to read ALL the accounts of those on the mountain. And you ought to review the many controversies left in the wake of Krakauer's other books, and the lies he's been caught in. The short of it is you'll find Krakauer is a seductively good writer, but a deeply flawed and morally lacking person. His modesty routine is a facade for a guy with huge ego and an inability to admit his moral failings. Ironically, the two people from the events of May 1996 who got by far the lionshare of media attention were the two with the biggest axes to grind - Beck Weathers and Krakauer.
@@biscaynediver thanks for your thoughts and insights. I admittedly have not read Into Thin Air in ten years. I looked for it in a box I stored it in when we moved, but couldn't find it. My wife brought one home from the library for me....I'll get to it. I did truly love The Climb, as well. I will clarify why I say that I loved Into Thin Air: it's not in the least that I agree with him on his take of everything that happened. I loved it because of his raw take on the underbelly of an industry and obsession that most books leading up to it kowtowed to. He exposed the truth behind the veil that is Everest. Your comment is very good and I appreciate it. I am considering a Beck Weathers video and don't disagree that there is a hell of a lot more to his story there than a hero coming home then doing talks for $50,000, inspiring audiences in awe of his survival. The axe to grind comment, I'm curious....please elaborate. Thanks for watching
@@biscaynediver Please provide a brief explanation of exactly what gives you those insights. Were you there?
What we should learn from this story is exactly what you point out: that key decisions are difficult to make in the death zone while fatigued, thus turnaround times that are decided on while clear headed must be respected absolutely.
Thanks so much for watching....your thoughts are right on point.
Dear Everest Mystery,
🇨🇦 here from Jasper National Park.
Your video has moved me to comment.
For context; Caver here: took many years to accumulate memories of top 8 of Canada’s deepest and 7 longest.
My partners and I lived by “ you are only as strong as your weakest link”
If one called a rout hours in , we would turn.
There is always another day.
Thank you for your channel and your insights; very educational and much appreciated!
Cavers are another breed altogether! My friend Mark Synnott did a feature for Nat Geo in Uzbekistan's Dark Star cave and he gained a new perspective, that's for sure. Thanks for taking the time to comment, great having you here!
The weakest link that matters is the management. Pittman had experience climbing the high summits. Other climbers didn't.
Hi from Edmonton!! 🇨🇦 ❤
@@dana102083 Hello neighbour!
I miss visiting Bannf💔❤️🩹 I moved, and things didn't go so smoothly, so it will be a while. So glad I was able to bring my dog to enjoy the smells before she died (we adopted a senior dog, tried to give her a great retirement ❤️🐕🦺). Someday we'll be back...🥰
I was living in Seattle in 1996 and became obsessed with learning what had gone so wrong on Everest that day. I now live in North Bend. There's a memorial bench on the Little Si trail that honors Doug Hansen, the USPS worker, who died on Everest in 1996.
I always note that bench on that trail. It’s a great way to remember someone.
You are lucky to be able to live in North Bend.
Damn! I didn’t know. I’ll have to look for it the next time I get a chance. I never knew it was there.
Frankly the harsh reality in climbing customary behavior/etiquette is leave them. So obviously Rob had a heart of gold. I really feel Rob would have saved Scott. But he chose to die with Doug...?? SMH
You should laugh out loud when climbing guides tell you they’ll enforce a turn around time. They NEVER do.
I remember that so vividly I was waiting for my kids dentist appointment and started reading.. Into Thin Air...Rob Hall was the tour guide with Doug Hansen..it was his second attempt and Rob really wanted him to Summit..A freak storm came in and they died coming down..
Scott Fisher and so many experienced climbers died that Year 💔💔💔🙏
Thank you for sharing Scott's story. Somewhere i read about his life from childhood up to his death. He truly seemed like a good man. Rest in peace Scott.
He was an amazingly infectious man who was known to say things like "You're either crusin' or your bummin' so might as well cruise" Scott Fischer.
I truly wish I could have met him....while he may have gone over the line, his charisma and climbing abilities must have been fascinating to be in the presence of
Nice guys aren’t perfect. NOBODY is. And nice guys make mistakes. I can’t really agree that White got Scott killed was his being a nice guy. It was his arrogance and lack of humility that killed him. Sometimes clients don’t need a nice guy, they need the truth. And sometimes that means not accepting them as a client at all. There’s no doubt, he had a good heart. he wanted the best for everybody. But sometimes the best is the truth. Sometimes failure is winning.
@@EverestMystery Thom, if you haven't read Robert Birkby's book "Mountain Madness Scott Fischer & a life lived on high" I highly recommend it. I just bought another hard copy from amazon was under $25. If I remember correctly the digital copy was $8. Definitely paint's a much more accurate picture of who Scott was vs any content I've see on YT.
RIP David Brashears..just saw he passed yesterday he was there filming IMAX in 96.
He was so lovely. 🙏🏻
Awww, I hadn't heard this. I only became aware of him through learning about this tragedy but everything I've seen points to him being quite a decent fellow. RIP
Being a climber here in the Pacific Northwest. I’ve had a few interactions with people who knew Scott, I never met him but the consensus with all those that did seems to be that he was a genuine, good guy. Just very unfortunate about his passing. Appreciate the video and information. I just subscribed. Great channel, thank you.
Just saw the headline that David Breshears has passed away at his home. RIP to a legend.
😭💔
😞❤️
I highly recommend David Breshears book "High Exposure". In the book he makes the point about how reduce the risk of dying: When picking a turn around time, it means stop immediately climbing up and turn back down. It does not mean, think about turning around. He writes about forcing himself to turn around a few meters short of reaching the top of one of Seven Summits. It would have taken him 20-30 minutes to go the extra distance, but he had seen climbers die because they went beyond their turn around time, and many died after reaching the summit, but had nothing left to survive the decent. The goal is not to just to reach the top, but to return alive.
😢 I was surprised to read this, very unfortunate.
That's so sad. Time to rewatch his PBS interview. May he journey well.
😢 Broke my heart.
The fact that his team got everyone down tells me Scott Fisher had put together an amazing team. Too bad he didn't take care of himself first. Hopefully lessons were learned about that storm and lives lost. I remember hearing about it on the news. I had just had surgery and I was resting and watching a lot of news. I can remember when I was growing up what a big deal it was to summit Everest. There would be newd stories on TV and in thr newspapers when it happened.
You said it. It seems Rob Hall has gotten more attention, but Scott has my respect.
Thanks Chrissy for your thoughts on this. I appreciate your support of the channel, and glad. that you're enjoying the videos :)
The 1996 season was the first time I was following along online. I remember sitting at my dining room table to check the progress & was stunned to read the news of the tragedy. I really appreciate you bringing these stories to us in such a thoughtful way. Thank you.
online hahahaha
Jesus. I didn't have the Internet until 2003, and never used it to 2007 or 8 for any browsing.
Nerd
@@roymunson1I don’t think anyone was posting hourly or daily reports online in 1996. I mean in 2000 the internet was somewhat useless so, not sure how “following the 1996 Everest disaster” online was even possible?
The positive message and general care and decency this channel radiates never ceases to make me feel good. Thanks for all of your constant hard work in recording the history and culture of the mountains.
I'm glad the tone resonates with you! It means a lot that you appreciate it. Thank you!
What I loved about this video was there was no blame - so
Many people have been ,Team Krakauer’ or team ‘Boukreev in terms of the accounts of both - and laying the blame without knowing the facts or being in that situation - like
You said , and you’ve been there …your barely functioning at that height -- very insightful
why shouldn't there be blame
@@DD-gi6kx I didn’t say that - I stated if you look again , there was no blame in the video - as for your separate question , the only ones who can answer that are those who were on the hill that day. Nobody else knows so any views / comments / stone throwing is purely speculative , and that’s a dangerous thing
@@DD-gi6kx I feel like Lion’s share of the “blame” needs to be laid at everyone’s feet, and no one’s. They endeavored on an expedition where every year 6.5 people die if every 100 that summit. Better choices could have been made sure, and we can point fingers at people in hindsight. But we can’t say with any certainty that the entire team could have survived the storm. A storm that was no one’s fault. It’s an inherently very dangerous thing to do and everyone knew that going in.
Yea I hate all that too. I heard before reading Anatolis version, that he didn't like JKs version. Yes it was different because he had a different experience and is a different person. There is multiple viewpoints and no one is blameless. We have everything to learn from this experience.
They clearly try to place some blame on Sandy Pittman. She was not inexperienced, she has 6/7 summits under her belt and it was her 3rd attempt at submitting Everest. Her story in today’s Everest wouldn’t even cause somebody to raise an eyebrow.
It sounds like the climbers forgot the main rule.. at 2pm they have to head down! Period! Ambition and egos got in the way of decisions. After watching a few videos of that climb. My heart goes out to Beck. Being left for dead a couple times, but the drive to survive saved his own life! Thanks for sharing this view.
Whoever said it was 2 pm...many say TAT was decided at 1 PM which makes sense
*Why is it that NO One, Ever mentions the 90-lb. YaSuKo, who FeLL & No Body Cared or HeLped Her????*
@@mchandrashekhar4043*WeLL 2pm Trumps 4pm, Doesn't it????*
Nobody talks about that pilot that took a helicopter up that mountain not once, but TWICE to get those people down. He flew up and sledded it back down. Weird they know that is a possibility, but never use it.
And Miss Peach, who was prepared and willin’ to make it a global issue to get Mr Beck home.
Anatoli Boukreev's book The Climb is the best of the several books that I have read on this tragic climb.
It is especially after Into Thin Airs author, gave him a bad name, unfairly.
Beck Weathers Left for Dead is another good one from 96 expedition
Agreed. After finishing it, I wanted to send him money to continue his career. Then learned he had died on another climb.
Yes.@@dubbledub4588
Is there a audiobook?
A good summary. Incidentally Anatoli fixed the ropes at the most critical section, the Hillary Step while Neil fed the rope out for him.
Where were the Sherpa’s then?
@@samanthab1923 in the Mill House podcast (about 3 years ago), Neal describes that at the first set of ropes up to the South Summit Lopsang Sherpa was supposed to fix the ropes but when Neal encountered Lopsang he was dragging Sandy Pittman up instead (and Lopsang was climbing without oxygen). Neal was with the other clients and fixed those ropes himself so they could continue up toward Hillary Step and summit. Then they encountered Anatoli and he/Neal fixed the HS ropes. Not sure where other Sherpa were. Anyhow that's just one account of many...it was a good listen.
@@samanthab1923Mike Groom & Andy were sitting for 2 hours on their butts along with both teams in South Summit waiting for sherpas to rope up Hillary Step...they were burning precious Oxygen & daylight
@@mchandrashekhar4043 The whole thing was a shit show. No one did what they were supposed to
I had read the books and watched the films that you suggested at the beginning of your talk, but I want you to know that I found this so fascinating even though I knew all about it already. Your tale was riveting , thank you.
I absolutely agree 😎
Thanks for doing these videos. I'm an acquaintance of Jochen Hemmleb, that's how I've become interested in mount everest (climbing has always be an interest of mine, even though I'll never be on that professional level). I've soon learned about the 1996 drama. I really have no opinion on my own on this, since a) I'm not an expert and b) many unfortunate factors came together in this situation. I'm just incredibly sorry for those who lost their lives and their families. I do, nevertheless think it shows that sometimes it's better to let go, even of your ambition, instead of pushing through. If you already pushed yourself over the edge, don't go any further. Sometimes it's difficult to realize and accept that pure will in itself won't be enough. But it is important to teach yourself that too. Just a thought.
Apart from this - thank you for making the internet a kinder and friendlier place. It touches me that there are still decent people online who try to act kind towards anyone. I just found you and really love to watch your videos every evening. I will become a member for sure.
It's great having you here, thank you for the great comment and kind words. Very cool that you know Jochen! I'm happy you found the channel and appreciate your thoughts on the atmosphere I endeavor to keep here. Cheers from the US!
One of my closest friends growing up is the son of MacGillivary, of MacGillivary Freeman Films. A group of us were always on the beach daily, and I vividly recall being able to say hi to the IMAX team at Basecamp one day during one of his dad's calls. The movie was never intended to be the blockbuster it became, but rather an educational documentary like the rest of their vast collection of films. It was the tragedy that unfolded on the mountain that year that drew the world's attention wanting to know and see what happened. Not sure why, but that memory of screaming hi into this huge bulky "cell" phone to the team at Everest stuck with me all these years....
That's so cool. Did you get to say "hi" to Ed?
Thanks for your coverage on Mr Fischer’s story!💜
I really enjoyed working on it....it is a rabbit hole, as is everything about the '96 disaster. Thank you for watching!
@@EverestMystery you’re welcome! 😁
I think Scott and Rob were AWESOME climbers, but terrible leaders. Their job was not to summit Everest. Their job was to bring all lives back. Turning people back even if it means they don't summit. . You wonder how this would have ended if Neil didn't volunteer to set ropes. When the leaders aren't leading you are up there with amateurs.
Doug should have been turned back long before. A good leader leads. Rob lost his life needlessly. I forget the name of the gentleman that Discovery followed as a leader, but he lead from base camp. If ever I would have climbed it would have been with him. Shallow thoughts killed many people and changed many lives. Bec never pointed a finger, yet his life was changed and Peachs almost lost her husband. Another great video Tom!!
Excellent insight....THANK YOU. Your take is always right on and very insightful. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to share your thoughts!
@@EverestMystery I enjoy your videos and appreciate that you like feedback.
One of my observations while learning about this is that communication and organization among the professionals (leaders and guides) was not strong. So that supports your thought.
Was it Russell Brice maybe?
Great comment btw!
@pamelah9205 yes it was. Russell is the mayor or Everest
Goes to show you that we all have an expiration date. Unfortunately we don’t get to plan our own. Human error is well, human. We aren’t invincible like we would love to believe. Although his passing really sucked, he also helped inspire another generation of mountaineering.
Yes, he did inspire so many. I found myself in mourning almost while doing this video. I was battling it out on a mountain in Pakistan at the time this was taking place.... The story is a sad tale. Thank you for watching and for sharing your thoughts!
Beautifully said.
All good points articulated well.
No one knows if this could be their last day, but we should all live life like it is🙏
Many people do actually plan their own expiration. 😮
Very well done in a short time frame Thom. You covered foibles of human nature with respect and compassion. 👏 Thank you.
I truly appreciate it, thank you!
I remember after that day and the news got out I became an Everest nut. I read what I could find including the books you mentioned. I believe Scott thought he was invincible which in the end led to him dying. It was Rob that I was more sad for. He died out of love and caring imo. And here it is 28 yrs later and after all these yrs I am finally making my way to Everest. I will be leaving the States on May 9th. I'm only doing EBC, then heading over to Island Peak. This will be my first climb so I must start out with a safe climb. Altitude will also play a part so that is why I choose IP. By the way I am 60 yrs old now so this trip has been a long time coming.
And I didn't mean for it to sound like I wasn't sad for Scott. It was horrible and a terrible day. I do remember shedding tears for all involved. With Scott and the way he did things and feeling invincible was what made him the man he was. I was truly sad at his passing.
Have a transformational journey. Come back and tell us about it.
Yes! Have a wonderful experience and do let us know about it!
Dear man, come back snd tell us all!All the best 😊
Wishing you a wonderful journey and climb.
Be safe.
I have always found the 1996 tragedy to be particularly heartbreaking. Scott Fisher and Rob Hall were both so skilled, talented, and knowledgeable, and they established the 2 pm turn-around time for rock-solid reasons. If only they had adhered to it. Fewer people would have reached to summit that season, but we would not be here discussing how many people died. So very sad.
Fischer was fighting altitude sickness on the day. He should recognized that and stayed at Camp 4.
Alternatively, he could have hired someone that would realize he was far too slow, and turned him around at the Balcony.
@@JohnSmith-ux3tt Yes. Absolutely. By all accounts he was impaired and definitely not performing at his usual level. He had top-notch guides to assist his clients (and their actions were heroic) but it is odd that no one said, "Scott, something is wrong with you today, buddy, and you need to go down." Or maybe someone did and the message wasn't strong enough to sink in. Obviously, he didn't recognize his own limitations on that day. Worst possible place to make that mistake.
What about the Sherpas?
@@LisaF777 The sherpas not putting the lines up on time was pretty ridiculous, and it's disappointing that Fisher and Hall didn't instill some discipline in them... was such an unnecessary cost to both teams. Not turning around on-time was clearly a result of the social / business pressure on the two teams and cost both team leaders their lives (as well as many others).
The buck really stops with the team leaders.
just incredible , you have a gift of telling amazing Stories.
Thanks for this. How could I ever forget that day.. I was in the office of MM. I'm the guy who dropped him off at the airport for this expedition. Sure miss this infectious man.. .
For a view of Scott read Robert Birkby's book "SCOTT FISCHER MOUNTAIN MADNESS & a life lived on high"
Getting Outside magazine involved was Scott.. another day I will never forget is when Outside mag. said they're going with Rob's AC. But shortly after Scott being Scott finds and pulls a rabbit (Sandy P) outa the proverbial hat. (saving the day yet again) I don't feel people appreciate how much of a challenge filling a climbing roster at the time was.
At the time there was not much public reach to advertise expeditions other than little adds in the back of climbing and outdoor magazines. So like it or not (in my biased view) Scott was key to letting the world know about Everest.
There were 2 fatalities on the MM team Scott and Lopsang's uncle 2 months later in a hospital in Kathmandu. Which I feel was certainly a stress on all on the sherpas who already were upset by SHP's fling on the mountain.
One last key factor and another day I will never forget at the MM office was the day I brought the crappy 2way radios back from If my memory serves) swallows nest trekking supplies. Crappy because that's all the budget allowed. Yes believe it or not even at those rates of $30-60k per client. Scott was known to haggle.. even to the point of loss meaning if it cost him $ in he just wanted to "make it happen" (MM mantra).
A general contractor that I had done many subs for who is family with Pete and Klev said "Scott just over did himself".
Thanks again Thom,
I guess I don’t understand why making Everest trendy is a good thing. Seems like a very dark story about ego, and people green washing the damage they do to sell environmental awareness is sketchy at best…
@@standdownrobots_ihaveoldglory green washing?? You mean the fact that MM removed 5000 lbs of garbage and 150 O2 canisters?? That needs to be done to this day and I feel if Scott (who initiated the idea) wouldn't have perished those efforts would have continued and by now it'd be policy to "leave no trace". The Napalese Gov is talking about "blue bags" to defecate into and each climber required to carry it back to Base camp with them. To say "a dark story about ego" I'd guess you are not a climber. Second it's ultimately up to the Nepalese Gov and of course they like the $$. I certainly am not implying making Everest trendy is good. I'm saying it was Rob & Scott who effectively did it. Unfortunately neither are around to see what the fruits of their labor have done.
Lol environmental damage. Some bodies and some trash. Big deal. Humans are so funny everything comes from the earth will return to the earth. Earth will eat It all some day. The one place on earth that humans footprint is a non factor is the top of everest. It be one think if you were crying about rivers and oceans, or woodlands being destroted and gmo plant replaced , or mass pollution from chemical pesticides. No you're crying about something that effects no one
I think so too. All his client had summited, he didn't feel well and was exhausted. There was really no need for him to summit himself in order to make his first MM success. Perhaps pressure from the attendant media became too much of a part regarding his view of MM's accomplishment on Mt. Everest.
It's really heartbreaking listening to him in his last interview. Both Scott and Rob Hall had the best intetions for themselves and their clients. What happened was "Life", all we have is now.
@@somjasa To be candid I think Doug Hansen had a lot to do with the reasoning. Consider he was dubbed "the rescuer". Scott was a very selfless man who if on a mountain anywhere would instantly prioritize helping anyone in trouble.
This was the event that captured my interest in mountaineering, through Krakauer's book. It has culminated with me being a week away from starting my own attempt to climb Everest.
Wow, can you keep us updated on the new regulations (the poop bags, the downsized 'luxury' one-person tents w/ tvs & mattresses)? What outfit are you going with? Oh and what country are you from! I'm Australian, in Fremantle, WA. Do you have mountaineering experience?
wow, many blessings for a successful trip
Thank you for your video. So much attention has been focused on Hall's team that I appreciated the information about Scott Fisher. May I suggest that David Breashears' Storm over Everest is also an excellent video to hear more updated information about some of the climbers' perspectives about their ordeal? Maybe you mentioned it? Thanks again!
I survived both K2 and Everest even though I'm not a mountaineer, simply by using my better judgement and staying at home
😂😂 you should learn to fly
😂
David Breashears RIP 😢
A devastating loss....beyond description
OMG ... he was my age! Does anyone know the cause of his death? This is heartbreaking. RIP David.
He was found unresponsive at his home.@@I.Love.Dogs.More.Than.People
@@I.Love.Dogs.More.Than.PeopleAP Reporting: "Breashears was found unresponsive at his home in Marblehead, Massachusetts, on Thursday, Ellen Golbranson said. She said he died of natural causes but 'the exact cause of death remains unknown at this time.'”
He was only 68.
Don’t know where I’ve been but this channel is new to me and I’m hooked. I’m talking can’t wait to get a hot shower on this stormy night to hunker down and binge watch….thank you and new subbie!
my parents sat beside him on an overseas flight and he said to my dad "we got the big E dialed". My father who was the doctor one of the first expeditions from the tibetan side in the very early 80s and had talked to reinhol messner after his solo climb was deeply skeptical. You said it all -trying to make money from people who cant even put crampons on is not smart in the himalayas
You are awesome in your knowledge of these stories you talk us through. After listening to your soothing voice i am as close to feeling i was there. Amazing work my friend please keep it going.
Тhе biggest fault at least for Fisher group tragedy is on Fisher himself. As you said we would never know why Fisher being in bad shape kept climbing toward the summit while his clients were descending.
Having worked for him at the time I wish he wouldn't have.. in fact i remember feeling a sinking feeling in my stomach at the office when we heard after bringing Dale down that Scott was going back up. But knowing Scott I feel he did because he wanted everyone to make it back especially Doug which I figured knew would be a problem. Not to mention Pittman who was a problem from the start.
@@jjzap2935 Good points. And when he passed clients coming down he was obviously not thinking clearly as noone really can't up there so why were the office not assisting with directions to get people DOWN?? Even down at EBC people were in summit & marketing fever as at the time it seemed nothing could be wrong with that yellow brick way to summit established (by fisher).
@@henrikk2713 there was no direct line to Everest, We were just getting updates from EBC. I have no idea what you think was possible at the time..?? Further why would Scott call the office from Everest even if he could, wtf could we do from the other side of the planet ??
@@jjzap2935 so how could they keep radio Rob right up until his death bed crappy radios & all? surely they could have radiod scott too before he was too long gone...
@@jjzap2935 Brutha you did not work for him shhh
Thanks very much for the video and your thoughts. I've visited Scott's memorial in Nepal and it was a cold, windy, snowy day with very low visibility. Made him seem closer in some way. I admire his spirit tremendously. After reading many books on the 1996 event, I think it was inevitable that something like this would happen as climbing Everest increased in popularity. Whenever we humans start to feel that we are invincible and forget how dwarfed we are by nature, she has a way of pulling us back in line.
Remarkable and lucid analysis. I have followed this story for over 2 decades, and this analysis answers a lot of questions. Thank you.
Great share Thom, I’ve stopped at Fischers memorial at Thukla a few times. 🙏🏼 Godspeed to Breashears as well 🏔️ 💫
A couple thoughts/questions…
It seems like you’re being a bit unfair to Pittman, mentioning that she was a weak climber. But she wasn’t a real amateur… i believe she had at least a couple of the 7 summits completed. It does seem that she was struggling that day, but i dont think she was as weak and inexperienced as you say.
Also regarding Fischer, didnt he have some stomach or liver condition? I dont know where, but i thought i read that his stomach was part of the issues he was having that day.
Unfortunately Boukkreev seems to have caused some of Fischers problems by not being as active a guide (so Fischer went up and down more than he should have). But of course he saved Pittman, Fox, and at least one more person (Madsen?), so hes not the bad guy by any means. its just unfortunate that Boukreev and Fischer weren’t clearer and on the same page about their roles.
You gotta be friggin kidding me! She probably paid Lobsang a premium to haul her lazy ass up that mountain and that is one of the main reasons for this tragedy happening in the first place. I hate narcissists.
Pittman seemed to be made the scapegoat. There was her "cappuccino machine" which was just a coffee pot like others carried and packets of instant powdered coffee that was cappuccino-flavoured. She was only short-roped for about an hour, yet some make it seem like it was for the whole ascent. I think a lot of the condemnation of her was misogynistic and classist.
You did an excellent job explaining how this tragedy unfolded just by narrating in chronological order. Very easy to follow. Well done! On a side note, there has been a fairly recent (about 8 months ago) interview with Sandy Pittman posted here on youtube. It's quite interesting...she discusses her version of how everything happened, how she was blamed in the media (starting with Krakauer's book, though she doesn't name him) and how she turned to drinking and drugs to cope with the backlash. I can't remember the channel that posted the interview, but all i did was searched her name and found it. I've tuned in to many of your videos...great channel here! RIP to those who lost their lives during that storm.
Sandy was scapegoated. She was a paying customer. Whether or not people liked her, she wasn't calling the shots. Scott and Rob were, and they failed.
But she was catering to death by Scott Fisher, trying the serpas story some where carrying her and I dont know if all “ paying “ customers were that catered to the extreme like she was.
Like the person with the previous comment, I too have read several books and watched a few documentaries on this tragic event, but I also still learned something from your video. It's such a poignant story, and you told it with understanding for the situation and for those involved.
I typically pass by on videos where the host is mostly talking, but i listened to this whole video. You did an amazing job finding factoids that aren’t in the major reports. Great script friend! Thoroughly enjoyed it and after watching videos like this I have such a respect for those who make this trek!
Thank you so much, I truly appreciate it. Glad that you took the time to watch :)
Fantastic video, fantastic narration and thank you for being both very descriptive and factual, using the natural environment for drama and being respected to everyone involved
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and narration....the voice has done me well in many a telephone conversation, let me tell you lol
@@EverestMystery I think both the leaders should have ensured that the ropes were set up by the Sherpas ON TIME, should not have allowed climbers who were "weak and elderly", to go on their teams, and actually, they also should not have allowed Pittman on the climb, or Krakeur, as they both put pressure into the teams regarding the publicity and whether it would be positive or negative. The turn around time should have been kept, no matter what, any weak climbers, taken down the mountain and not encouraged or short roped up. They both should have agreed that having the PR members (Pittman and Krakeur) was going to be dangerous for them both. The fact they both did not do this, shows that they were not the good leaders people thought they were. They both, did not put safety FIRST.
Thank u! Excellent summary. What’s surprising was that both Fischer and hall turned back clients on previous climbs for not meeting the 2 pm deadline. It’s sad that sound judgement gave way to hubris.
It was Fischer's first trip as leader of MM in 1996..
Rob Hall turned back his team from South Summit in 1995 which included Doug Hansen
My wife and I thoroughly enjoy your podcasts. It is so refreshing to learn about these climbing events from someone who is a professional climber, and who tells the truth!
Great job Thom! Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge. 💙🙏💙
Great synopsis, Sir! I just read Krakauer’s book. I’m not a mountain climber, but in the Air Force, we had to do hypobaric chamber training every 5 years. This was so we could recognize the insidious onset of hypoxia at altitude, and know how we personally react in an environment with little oxygen. Doing this, I realized quickly that I would have make a terrible Sherpa. We would also study mishaps & learn from them, and there was usually a “chain of events” leading to a crash. That seems to be the case here, too. Tragic!
Always so eloquently put. I would of been 5 when this happened but as I've commented before, it was the first event that got me interested in mountaineering. After being diagnosed with Bipolar type 2 in 2022 I became a recluse for 4 months. Not leaving the house for 6 weeks. But it was covid and the time above that allowed me time to explore the mountains of Nepal/Himalayas. Scott's legacy goes on in books, movies and documentaries. I loved hearing about Ed V and Scott's ascent of K2. He and Ed offer great advice for not just the mountains but life too.
However, still to this day do I believe Sandy P shouldn't of been allowed up there. Yes you could say the same for others but she's was an obvious one.
Thank you once again for this content. Always so empathetic.
Thanks for watching and thank you for sharing a bit of your story. I'm very familiar with Bipolar 2, and know it can completely destroy a person (and is heartbreaking for those around that person). Your take on Sandy P is on point...there are so many angles to the story, really.
I'm really glad you found the channel :)
He and Rob I think were mostly responsible for the disaster.
What a great legendary story, thank you! Love your channel❤
Thank you ! So glad you’re here 🙏
You sort of say the same thing in your conclusion here but I really love how Jon krakauer in the end on Into Thin Air sums up wether the mountaineering community learned from the 96 Everest disaster by talking about the mistakes that were made within the very next year that lead to more unnecessary deaths from poor judgment. I don’t remember exactly how he worded it but I remember it being a great conclusion to the book.
Fantastic Video!
In David Breashears 2008 documentary, Storm Over Everest, it is actually mentioned that through interview that Makalu Gao continued to ascend because the fallen Taiwanese climber was the one who wanted the team to reach the summit the most. Makalu felt in the moment that the best way to honor him would be continue the climb and reach the summit.
Highly recommend the documentary (free on TH-cam) as it has first hand accounts from Makalu, David, Neil, Mike Groom, Beck and others on both Rob Hall’s and Scott Fischer’s teams.
Thank you, this deeper level of intel is important. In another future video I'll expound upon that situation....I went pretty much with David being quite upset about the decision made to ascend. Thanks for watching! I'll check the vid out that you suggest
向David致哀。1996年很多山上發生的事情，若不是親身經歷，而是由第三者轉述就容易失去真實。Scott和Rob以及David我們在攀登期間都有互動，但因為語言隔閡，相互間就比較難於深入理解和溝通，所以容易產生一些誤解。
@@makalugau1064 Makalu Gau! Wow. Thank you for sharing your side.
Thank you for making this video. It’s the best take I’ve heard on what led to two of the most experienced climbers dying on the mountain they knew so well.
Living in Anchorage for over 40 years I was well aware of the climbing scene, heli skiing and all other mountain sports....Scott Fischer was well known amongst our group of friends and will always be remembered.
Just wanted to drop a comment to say I really appreciate your videos! Everest stories fascinate me - not so much the mountain itself but the limits to which it pushes the people who climb it. Your perspective is really interesting and I'm really enjoying your channel :D
Thanks so much, I appreciate that you took the time to comment and let me know. I love bringing people together and sharing stories like this. Welcome and thank you!
What intrigues me is how irrational behavior leads to disaster. Especially, group think.
The first time I ever saw a real mountain was in New Hampshire in June 1996. A lot of people were talking about Scott Fischer. I never knew who he was until i started down the Everest rabbit hole a couple of weeks ago.
Scott flew too close to the surface of the sun.
Great video. Also, Storm over Everest is the most beautifully made documentary I've seen.
Man, I wasn’t even ten years old in ‘96. I vaguely remember my dad talking about something on Everest. One of the first places I ever decided I never wanted to be.
I was gonna say I wasn’t even born yet, but then I remembered that I was and I’m old af now lol
Thank you for wading through all the stories from this expedition!
It's a gigantic rabbit hole....I'm well into it! Thanks for watching :)
my favorite storyteller on youtube - yeah dude!
Thanks so much!
Excellent summary of the disaster, thanks. RIP to all from the 1996 storm. And now RIP to David Breashears also, pro's Pro.
Just learned of David Breshears' passing... 😔...such an incredible person.
Love your channel, man. Everest is a fascinating but deadly place.
Thanks so much for reaching out and saying so....it's great having you here!
I have read the story in Into Thin Air and been fascinated by the terrible decisions made, by people who were so experienced. The tragedy on Everest that season will hope fully never be repeated, but we all know deaths will still occur. Thank you for this video.
Fischer (and Hall) let ambition overwhelm knowledge and experience. This is particularly evident by two glaring mistakes: (1) the breakdown in communication regarding rope fixing above camp 4 (significantly increasing exposure time high on the mountain) and (2) the abandonment of the well-established and frequently emphasized 2 pm turnaround time.
For EVERYONE
Always has to be a know it all.
Good video. I read into thin air many years ago and had forgotten about the entire story. Great job pointing out all the things that went wrong. So sad that two iconic guides like Hall and Fischer are no longer with us.
It’s so unfortunate that Rob and Scott, two well respected leaders of the climbing community, allowed themselves to be lured away from the responsibility to protect their clients. Lured away by commercial competition.
You have an incredibly balanced style of presentation. I have 0 mountaineering but that style makes your account plausible.....well done!
Love your channel! I've been obsessed with this story ever since reading "Into Thin Air". There were many mistakes and poor decisions made that day, but ultimately Scott Fisher and Robb Hall must be held accountable for the disaster. They knew better, but did not follow their own rules. They were superb mountaineers and charismatic individuals, but it was their poor leadership skills that resulted in so many deaths, including their own. One can criticize Anatoli Boukreev for choosing to climb without oxygen that day. It required him to descend immediately after summitting, leaving the paid clients on his team without badly needed support on their descent. But it was Anatoli's heroics that night, to find and bring in stranded climbers, that prevented several more deaths.
RIP David Breshears.
Ive seen several videos on this day. I thank you for clarifying a lot of what happened. I never really understood what all went wrong, you really made it clear, Thom!
Really, really well-done video. With you're closing analysis, I learned details I had never known before.
The drive to bolster his business probably can't be overstated. But as I was listening to you, another thought came...
When we experience something so amazing, so beautiful, so life-altering, there is an innate need (at least this is true for myself) to share that with others. You want them to be allowed to experience the gift that nature has given you. That is a powerful thing.
You make a good point. This is how I feel about teaching horsemanship to new students and helping them get to eventually experience a long ride out in nature.
@@LilyGazou What a wonderful thing to be able to teach and share!
Great video. I appreciated your measured tone with respect to this tragedy. This is a good illustration of what happens at the intersection of Safety and Commerce. Both Fisher and Hall were more than qualified and fit enough to get to the summit and back on their own. However, the same cannot be said of many or their clients. Pittman certainly had no business being on the mountain. The litany of mistakes, the failure to honor their previous turn-back time, the diminishing margin for error - all combined to create the disaster. The storm caught them by surprise, but it's no secret that big mountains "create their own weather". The financial pressure to accept unqualified clients and guide them to the summit amid great media fanfare is a perfect recipe for disaster when the weather turns on you. These climbs require exceptional physical and mental stamina. You can blather all day long about having determination and a "can-do" spirit, but if your legs crap out on the descent because you simply run out of gas, you're likely going to die. You get clumsy, you get slow, maybe run out of oxygen - it's a cascading series of setbacks that can overwhelm even the best climbers. The deaths of both Fisher and Hall are a testimony to that. Krakauer, no slouch when it comes to climbing, wrote an excellent and sympathetic book, but the fact that he properly appreciated the commercial trap that Fisher and Hall fell into resulted in a lot of criticism from people in the climbing community who didn't like the very accurate conclusions he drew. I think the intervening years have demonstrated that the growing commercial fiasco on Everest is a continuing disaster waiting to happen. Moulton Avery
I enjoyed your retelling and perspective of this.
Thank you🙌
Thank you :) I'm always happy to see your thoughts in the comments!
A thorough and thoughtful assessment of events leading to the death of Scott Fischer. Most people don't realize that just a couple of days before the summit bid he had descended from camp II to escort a sick client to base camp and then immediately climbed back to rejoin his team. Other than weather, exhaustion was probably the biggest factor. On the other hand, his job has an 95% mortality rate.
Thank you for your work. The fact that you narrate it so well, and appear talking on camera, is a treasure, in this era of mediocre AI generated TH-cam Channels. 🙏🏻
I think you’re right on with your assessment Thom, visions of fame and glory was the overriding factor in these senseless deaths! Great video, professionally done! I look forward to more! 😎
It's very nice to have someone of your level presenting this information. It's a pleasure. I have subscribed.
Thanks very much, I truly appreciate it!
My thoughts are with the friends, family and those who crossed the path in life of David Breashears. Wishing all of them the best in this difficult time. Many thanks, Thom.
I was fortunate to know him, work with him and share some intense conversations about Everest and beyond, one in particular I recall was in Namche Bazaar after the Everest was closed in 2014. I'm frankly stunned, truth be told. It's a big loss.
I love seeing our seniors come on youtube and build communities with their stories and insights!
Wow and thank you? Hearkens to a scene from Dumb & Dumber when Lloyd Christmas asks an elderly lady in a cart to watch his things for him while he goes to get change for a dollar and he says to her" “Hey, I guess they’re right. Senior citizens, although slow and dangerous behind the wheel, can still serve a purpose.”
@@EverestMystery I hope you didn't take it the wrong way, I really appreciate you!
@@elifvlogs not at all my friend, my wife and I had a little chuckle this morning. Truth be told, I'm no youth! :) thanks so much for being a part of the channel, it's good having you here
Sorry did you say savvy businessman? At the cost of his own life? Nope. A savvy businessman in the extreme climbing world gets to come home and spend their money. Next level genius business was a tattoo artist who hiked out to Everest base camp with a bag full of guns, needles, ink and no intention to climb the mountain. Dude made a bundle of cash giving tattoos to all the heroes and zeroes who wanted fresh ink to commemorate their journey. Imagine how much a person will pay for a tattoo if they’re willing to pay to climb to the top then triple it!
That being said, great video! You have a new subscriber! Looking forward to viewing more of your videos. Wish you added more pictures and/or videos during the narration.
ThNkyou . Love how you tell . As unbiased & factual as you can be . So hauntingly tragic . 💜🦄
I have heard so much about Rob halls death but I did not know very much about Scott fisher that you for sharing
You're welcome...my hopes were to fill in some gaps, since I couldn't find much on Scott either. Thanks so much for watching!
Thanks for covering this story ❤ very well done 💯
Taking the cog railway of Pike's Peak (14,115ft) on a beautiful blue sky day, all I could think about on the summit, while feeling the oxygen deprivation, was these peaks such as Everest, K2, Annapurna etc are more than twice the height. These mountains can be killers. I loved Krakauers Into Thin Air.
Great breakdown of this tragic story. RIP to all who perished.
Brilliant conversation.
Rotorua, New Zealand 🇳🇿
Everything that could go wrong did go wrong. It is amazing to me though that for how skilled and methodical Rob Hall was about the procedure of climbing Everest that all of this happened. I have never done so much reading about this tragedy in my life. It's very interesting yet so sad.
David Breashears you will be missed. You were a positive influence for us looking at the history of recent mountaineering.
I was obsessed with Everest when I was a younger man. If you were like me, read Into Into Thin Air. It will give you a very good idea of what life is like in the high mountains.
Well it made me think most of the high altitude climbers are crazy.
Best book I have ever read.
Seriously, I think I read it in two days. I couldn’t put it down.
@@DrRockso0 me neither
The most shocking thing for me is that there were climbers with Makulu Gau who didn't even know how to attach crampons onto their boots. I don't like to single individuals out but i think if Sandy Hill Pitman was not being short-roped by Lopsang, the fixed ropes between the South Summit and the Hillary Step would've been up much faster and they would've been lower when the storm began.
And Rob Hall, Rob died because of Doug Hansen. Doug wasn't capable of making the round trip. Ed Visteurs pleaded with Rob to leave Doug, Rob could've got down on his own as could Andy Harris. Rob left his heavily pregnant wife a widow. Rob broke his own turnaround rules to get Doug to the top. Doug made it to the summit but he was wiped out, even full tanks of O2 were not getting Doug down.
There's no doubt that it was a phenomenal storm and that was the reason for some lives lost. But it was the decisions between two ambitious guides that in the end cost them their own lives, the life of Doug Hansen, the life of Andy Harris and i believe Nasuko Yamba would've been saved without the hold-up with the fixed ropes. And Beck Weathers who didn't summit due to a problem with his eyes could've been spared the life-changing injuries he suffered.
The South African team on the South Col didn't cover themselves in glory refusing to help, but that's another story. Scott (and Rob) over-promised and broke their own rules. That's why it's better to go with a stern leader like Russel Brice, guides have to be able to convince climbers with summit fever to turnaround. As Ed Visteurs said 'Getting to the top is optional, getting back down is mandatory!!
Excellent comment... It mirrors my own thoughts exactly....There was a solo climber on Everest at the same time.... Although his attempt for the summit was a day or so earlier...He was a brilliant young climber from Sweden who had cycled from his home country to Everest hauling all his kit on a trailer...
He was close to summiting but unlike Fisher and Hall he made the decision to turn around...He knew that had he carried on, he did not have the energies to get himself down... He therefore returned to base... When he had fully recovered he was able to make it to the top... Totally unassisted..no Sherpa, no oxygen... Totally solo.... Im sure you will know of this story . If not you must read his book .. Goran Kropp was his name.... Sadly died young in an innocuous accident not long after his epic climb on Everest...
It was Hansen's third attempt. Hall should have turned him around. Failure to "back off the plan" is a staple of outdoor adventure tragedies, and this one, blowing past the 2pm cutoff, is as classic as it gets.
They stayed on the top for almost 2 hours and well beyond the turnaround time and Scott Fisher made the disastrous decision to continue the summit 2 hours too late but you blame Sandy Pittman?!
Ridiculous.
If it hadnt been for the endurance of Anatoli Bukreev there would have been deaths on Scotts team. Anatoli,who climbed without supplemental oxygen, was the clearest thinker and the real hero of Everest 96 and he justly deserved the award he was given. Despite what "moaner" Krakauer said in his book.
So true....Anatoli made a huge difference....he's worth a full video, that's for sure
Sorry, but Anatoli should have used oxygen and stayed with the clients. Scott should have insisted. Beidleman was the real hero that day.
Lopsang also sounds like an absolute athlete machine
I read both of their books. Boukreev and Krakauer.
I don’t know how any amateur climber like krakauer can judge Boukreev for decisions at altitude.
You’re not supposed to help anyone. But as guides, they’re both heroes.
I don't know why you Boukreev supporters hate Krakauer so much. Krakauer has very little skin in the game and was fair to Anatoli in his book. Lots of mistakes were made that day and Anatoli was the only one who lost his **** over it... clearly he was being ultra-defensive because it could affect his career (your actions SHOULD affect your career).
Anatoli's book didn't even consult any of the other climbers that day, so you have Krakauer's professional accounting of things through consulting everyone he could vs Anatoli's book which is just his own point of view.
Any mistakes Anatoli made were specs of sand compared to the other mistakes made by the rest of the leadership.
Concise explanation. Well done.
I've read, "Into Thin Air", which is a fascinating read.
Just love ur channel,i love everything about everest,what great man Rob hall was not leaving his client alone,and as u say Scott fisher was a good man,oh and i am absolutely obsessed with mallory and ervine mystery,Great job...
But Rob ultimately left his other clients behind.
But he had other people working for him . And Rob was a great person as he could have left and save his life specially as his wife was very pregnant.
How did they reconcile having a strict turnaround time, but also a standing order to wait on the Summit until the team leader decides for everyone to start descending. That's messed up.
I liked the analysis in the video here; what I think was missing was the entire team understanding the plan then having group sync-points to adjust/replan when something started to change; so just clearer communication then. Especially when high altiude physical stress starts to fog the brain. Sounds like Scott, for example, was definitely no longer thinking clearly when he continued to summit as his team was descending and it was already past his turnaround time. There is also still some confusion about which sherpas were originally supposed to run that first fixed line when the other wasn't available because helping Sandy; in one account I saw, there were two that were supposed to do that and the one helping Sandy made sure they had his rope to do so.
Excellent video essay, thanks. I was in Peace Corps Nepal, hiking up in Solu Khumbu, in April-May 1995, and met the Rob Hall expedition, who asked me to take group photos of them. Weather didn't permit even an attempt that year, and I was very saddened to hear about the events of 1996.
Sandy P wasn’t the only client of Fisher or Hall who could be described as a liability.
Anyone who knows about this disaster, knows that. What we also know is that Sandy P had to be short-roped up the mtn which directly caused a cascade of time problems that led up to the tragedy. She also came off as totally obnoxious (bf and during) and ungrateful (after). So, she does come in for special scrutiny.
@@Tyler_KentSo does Scott. He never should have allowed Sandy special treatment. That's on him, not Sandy.
Stick together sister! Damn the facts when agendas and motives become more important.
Scott Fisher's responsibilty
No, but I get the feeling that had she not been there it would have been different. Just taking the Sherpa out of the equation (to tow her up to the top) may have set off a chain of fatal events
You're a great storyteller. That they are true stories is a weird real life feeling.
thank you, as a pakistani, born in Rawal Pindi, i love your content. currently living in Taos, i too play guitar and play in mountains.
Wonderful having you here. I truly loved the time I spent in Rawal Pindi. I had a magical experience in Pakistan and have told people on many occasions it is the most beautiful place I have ever visited.... Thanks for reaching out! Perhaps a jam session in Taos some day? :)
Great video. I've always found it odd how blame seemed to be assigned to Fischer and Boukreev when their entire team survived.
People blame them because they hypothesize that if Boukreev had used oxygen (which is now the standard that guides always use oxygen....but wasn't at the time) and if Fischer had been more rested, then they would have been able to save members on the other team. Ultimately, the other team wasn't their responsibility, although I'm sure if Fischer were rested and survived, and Boukreev were rested, both would have tried to save more people, and perhaps they would have. But its impossible to know for sure, maybe both would have then died tried to go back up and find Rob Hall and the postman. I think its fair to criticize/critique what they could have done differently, so those mistakes aren't made in the future, but they are certainly not to blame for anyone's death (well Fischer can probably be blamed for his own death, to some extent.)
@@thelogicaldanger my point was that there were other people on the mountain who are treated much more kindly, but made mistakes that led directly to deaths.
@@pindrop9536 I am not sure how you expected anyone to know that was your point, when the only people mentioned in your comment were Fischer 7 Boukreeve. you didn't even alude to anyone else, other than saying "their entire team survived." In your response, I have no idea who you are referring to when you say "other people on the mountain who are treated much more kindly." Fischer & Boukreeve were the paid guides, so of course its expected that they would receive more criticism than paying clients.
@@thelogicaldanger There were other groups who were far more inexperienced, decided to combine groups and dilute responsibility, continued taking clients after the turnaround time and pulled guides away from their clients. But I am stating that blame was unfairly aimed at the largely successful group, rather than those that failed and lost clients.
@@pindrop9536 I still have no idea what people you are talking about. Rob Hall? Him and Andy died, and they have both received plenty of criticism. The Indian group? American media focused pretty much on the groups with Americans in them, most people don't know there was an Indian group on the other side climbing. They know about Greenboots, but have no idea that was the year he died. Among mountain sources, I've seen plenty of criticism of the Indian group. The Chinese group? They did not have anyone die the day of the storm. So I really don't know who you are talking about, or why you insist on being vague. I mean, why bother commenting in the first place with vague comment that had nothing to do with your point, if you aren't going to elaborate on exactly who you think didn't get criticism, that should have got criticism.
Ever since the Titanic, disasters seem to have a hold on the public imagination. I have read and watched numerous accounts of this expedition, and the facts are that mountains are dangerous places. Anatoly Boukriev made heroic efforts here only to lose his life on another mountain himself. It is very sad when lives are risked for the sake of egos. I personally cannot see the attraction of climbing Everest simply because it is the highest, as it is also surely the dirtiest in more than one sense of the word.
Aside from this video, I have incidentally exchanged commentary with Michael Tracy. I find his knowledge of mountaineering and history of events to be lacking in content, information, and far from accurate. Our commentary was focused on sherpas while his responses showed ignorance to how mountaineering and the use of sherpas has changed and evolved, how clients being guided are now the majority and government mandates are requiring assigning sherpas to climbers, clients, and teams.This has lead to the sherpas’ having entitlement attitude towards climbers. He furthermore doesn’t understand the the training they have participated in learning comes from climbers and guides visiting their country through time and history.
He also doesn’t understand sherpas and sherpas that assume guiding position are different people. Sherpas that have been educated and can assume guiding positions total far fewer individuals.
Through my exposure to Michael I am now aware that his videos are a directed attack on this channel and Mark. Reflecting on his ignorance with commentary exchange, he should refrain from producing ANY videos.
In our exchange, the 2012 -13 outburst of sherpas against Ueli, Jon and Simon were cited as examples to debate point of view. Then he included Messner in his comment which was outrageously out of line, considering history and timeframe. He doesn’t understand how misguided his interpretation is!!!
Anyway, now would be a perfect time to produce the video we discussed in your last response to me.
Yeah. I've enjoyed some of his videos regarding Mallory but the Tracy video regarding this 1996 incident is a hardly veiled, tendentious attack on Krakauer, who he's painting as a fraud presumably jealous of Boukreev and trying scapegoat anybody but himself. Whole I can't vouch for Krakauer's character, his account is very measured and is in general agreement with Groom, Biedleman, and Breshears. Tracy even makes the statement: "Krakauer in one version helps fix ropes with Biedleman, and in another says he climbed ahead of Biedleman after helping with the ropes around the step and south summit. It's either one or the other: you are either climbing for the summit or fixing ropes. It can't be both."
Why it can't be both isn't explained, and that elaborating on some retelling doesn't invalidate the original telling. At altitude the brain hardly works.
Well done! An important point I heard is that when a storm approaches the air pressure drops. Even LESS oxygen. And there was an incident where Andy Harris was asked to lower the oxygen flow on a climbers tank to conserve and he turned the control to higher. Harris had also reported that the oxygen tanks they cached were all empty. I feel that had Boukrev hadn't rested after his summit he couldn't have made two trips to get the climbers.
I didn't hear a mention of Scott Fisher's illness, which hit him during this expedition. Apparently he had an intestinal illness that had become chronic, as mentioned in "Into Thin Air." Being sick up there HAD to be another contributing factor.
And he’s drinking.
Hey Thom! Maybe a little tribute to Dave B? He passed last week. Way too young. Did a lot of good in the higher camps in ‘96. Also…when I was climbing up in the PacNW circa 2000-2003, Dave Hahn, with whom I later did a Denali W Buttress with, said of Scott, ‘he takes a lot chances’. Not sure if they ever went on any expeds together(doubt it as they worked for different companies), but David said it. I’ll bet that it was others’ impressions of Scott that David was referring to.
Yes, I'm truly bummed that I didn't know about David at the time I'd posted this video....I would have included more about his legacy. Perhaps in another video about '96....that would be a place to do it. He was a cut above. Super interesting about what Dave H said to you. Dave knew (knows) his stuff....how cool you were on Denali with him. Talk about a legend!