If I can do it (trust me because I’m a text book definition of idiot) then you can do it, following this man’s instructions. Before watching his videos I would not go a step further than changing an outlet or light switch, after watching his videos I’ve added numerous new outlets around my house and garage and have added new lights. I cannot emphasize enough, if I can do it, YOU can do it (: just follow handydad’s instructions and you’ll be ok. This guy is the best teacher in the world.
@@TomCee53 A home inspector will note it on their report and a buyer may try to make an issue of it, but in this case I doubt anyone would walk away from a deal if you told them to fix it themselves after purchase in this specific scenario. In reality, no DIYer is going to pull a permit on a project like this, so a building inspector is a moot point and the "it was like that when we moved in" excuse is probably going to fly here. That said, this is more of a safety thing than an inspection thing. Everything installed seems like it is in a highly accessible area and the risk of something catastrophic happening because you cut corners isn't worth the >$50 more it would have cost to do everything to code. 25 ft of MC, a couple of clamps, a metal box inside and a WRTR receptacle for the outside would have brought this close enough to code for a DIYer that nobody would have batted an eye. It's also the responsible way to do it when you know better and are creating how to content for aspiring DIYers.
Helpful and well presented video, thank you! My only question is that your breaker is 20A and your wire is 12GA but the gfci outlet and regular outlet you used were both 15A because don’t the 20A ones have a little minus sign within the plug ports? Just wondering if their internal components will be able to handle 20A loads?
It’s okay to use 15-amp receptacles on a 20-amp circuit (but not the other way around). You only need 20-amp receptacles if you plan to use 20-amp appliances, which we don’t.
@@handydadtvI understand that there is an exception in the code for multiple receptacles, but I disagree with your reasoning. Part of the spirit for the code is to assure that housing stock is safe and durable for the long term with multiple owners. The future owners will not know that “you never intended” to plug continuous loads on your under rated plug. Especially today in garages where people very likely may attempt to use level 1 EV evse that will stress the weakest point of any circuit. Code compliance is often a minimum consideration.
@ like your non-sensical use of underrated outlets, you miss the point. To save a very minuscule amount of money, you inserted a weak point in your circuit because of a presumption that doesn’t recognize housing spans time and owners.
Is it okay to drill through and put screws into vinyl siding? I was under the impression that vinyl siding needed to expand and contract and therefore, a special vinyl mounting box was required? Is it acceptable to screw directly into vinyl siding? Would make the project much faster if so.
MC usually counts as ‘flexible conduit’. Always check with your local inspector. I also prefer running conduit through the siding to protect the wire from the cut edges of siding. I also didn’t notice whether the outside outlet was weather rated.
If I want to add circuits (for example for exterior outlets) but my 100Amp breaker box is full, what are my options with relative, ball park prices? If it matters, I'm in Delaware, just outside of Wilmington city limits.
I’d recommend you get the panel upgraded to 200-amp rather than adding a subpanel. I have no idea of current prices, but before COVID, I paid around $2,000 in NJ.
Buy a tandem breaker. 15a or 20a. Its takes up 1 space but allows 2 circuits. Just be careful not to overload the panel. All new homes are 200a services at least. I've seen houses with 1000a services.
Great video! When connecting the white and ground wire in the breaker panel, do they need to correspond to the specific breaker or can you attach them to any free space on the panel?
Sir u explained everything very nicely but the last part where you are making connections to the circuit breaker in the main box , u didn't explained much about it .
A romex connector should be used to secure the romex cable where it enters the box to hold it from slipping and to seal the opening into the box. There are threads on the back to screw the connector onto the box.
Can the gfci be located anywhere in the house for the incoming line? Or does it need to be located on the line outlet prior to the outside outlet as you had done?
Anywhere, as long as it is upstream of the exterior outlet. My house, built when GFCI's were pretty expensive, has the outdoor outlets protected by a CGFI in the bathrooms.
It annoys me when a house is wired with GFCI-protected outlets are far from the GFCI! I had to correct a situation like that: th-cam.com/video/dbmRETinw0A/w-d-xo.html
I think that’s the dumbest practice, whether it’s code or not. Who would ever say “oh no I can’t plug my Christmas lights into that outlet because there’s no sticker.” And no home inspector worth his salt would trust the sticker. So they’re a useless waste of time. But that’s my 2 cents.
@@handydadtv The sticker is to inform people that it’s protected. That’s what codes are all about. Keeping people safe and informed. Does equipment operate without grounds? Yes, but it’s more likely that simple issues could turn fatal. I understand that you can make your own decisions, but the next person owning your property should not have to be an expert to be safe. Rules are made so that we don’t have to triple check before plugging in a phone charger. Can things still go wrong? Always, but I’d rather be 99% safe than 40%.
1. I did not see that you used any type of wire strain relief connector for the exterior box. 2. That outlet is not weather rated or tamper resistant. I would have also used a 20 amp outlets instead of the 15 amp. You never know when you may need them. 3. Also you should have kept the gate. That way you can put it back when nothing is plugged into the outlet and this keeps anything from nesting inside the box.
Hi Handy Dad Mr. Chris, Please explain me this one !, after scratching your head as I am doing also, here it is, I just installed an outdoor gfci and continues to a metal box for a flood light with **plastic/pvc gray etc... Conduit , how in heaven there is ground in the metal box for the light with the green/ground cable not connected yet, I read 125 v. with meter, red to black wire , black to neutral 1st then put neutral prom from tester to box and it reads voltage, not only that, if I put the neutral black cable from the meter to the clamps attached to the house with 1 screw there is ground and voltage, **this is not a prank not a joke, when I do all this works I test everything to make sure everything is right, but as long as I know concrete does not transmit electricity or ground,, or does it ?? Please explain if you know the answer, cause I don't, thank you so much. Oh, I do have pictures and video AND is not photos hop or sh..t . I can send it if asked. Please ! , and thank you !
I wouldn’t be turning that power back on without a good ground connection! Connect the ground properly and don’t lose sleep over the Earth acting as a conductor.
Thanks for always replying ! 👍🏻 yes I know ! , it is just that before I actually put a fixture in place, I always check voltage and ground etc... to make sure everything is good, no worries. But, I don't understand how there is ground in the box or clamp not connected to anything, do you know the explanation ? , maybe I am missing something from Science class or basic electricity, even though I am an Engineer but not electric one. There must be a principle I forgot.
You are 100% NOT allowed to run NM cable exposed. Its extremely fragile and will get knicked by many things. Not to mention its a blatant code violation. That wire needs to be ran in FMC or EMT.
This is a great video. I like your clear explanation. I’m still scared to do anything electrical. You make it look easy.
Thanks so much 😊
If I can do it (trust me because I’m a text book definition of idiot) then you can do it, following this man’s instructions.
Before watching his videos I would not go a step further than changing an outlet or light switch, after watching his videos I’ve added numerous new outlets around my house and garage and have added new lights. I cannot emphasize enough, if I can do it, YOU can do it (: just follow handydad’s instructions and you’ll be ok.
This guy is the best teacher in the world.
Nice video. However, aren't you supposed to run the cable in a conduit from the fuse panel to the outlet, like the outlet you removed.
Technically yes.
Making it an issue when it’s time to pass inspection before moving in or when time to sell.
@TomCee53 I’ll take that risk.
@@TomCee53 A home inspector will note it on their report and a buyer may try to make an issue of it, but in this case I doubt anyone would walk away from a deal if you told them to fix it themselves after purchase in this specific scenario. In reality, no DIYer is going to pull a permit on a project like this, so a building inspector is a moot point and the "it was like that when we moved in" excuse is probably going to fly here. That said, this is more of a safety thing than an inspection thing. Everything installed seems like it is in a highly accessible area and the risk of something catastrophic happening because you cut corners isn't worth the >$50 more it would have cost to do everything to code. 25 ft of MC, a couple of clamps, a metal box inside and a WRTR receptacle for the outside would have brought this close enough to code for a DIYer that nobody would have batted an eye. It's also the responsible way to do it when you know better and are creating how to content for aspiring DIYers.
Helpful and well presented video, thank you! My only question is that your breaker is 20A and your wire is 12GA but the gfci outlet and regular outlet you used were both 15A because don’t the 20A ones have a little minus sign within the plug ports? Just wondering if their internal components will be able to handle 20A loads?
It’s okay to use 15-amp receptacles on a 20-amp circuit (but not the other way around). You only need 20-amp receptacles if you plan to use 20-amp appliances, which we don’t.
They will not handle 20 amp loads individually, but as long as you have two or more outlets on the circuit, they can be 15A receptacles.
@@handydadtvI understand that there is an exception in the code for multiple receptacles, but I disagree with your reasoning. Part of the spirit for the code is to assure that housing stock is safe and durable for the long term with multiple owners. The future owners will not know that “you never intended” to plug continuous loads on your under rated plug. Especially today in garages where people very likely may attempt to use level 1 EV evse that will stress the weakest point of any circuit. Code compliance is often a minimum consideration.
@michaelwitkiewicz7052 This video has nothing to do with EV charging.
@ like your non-sensical use of underrated outlets, you miss the point. To save a very minuscule amount of money, you inserted a weak point in your circuit because of a presumption that doesn’t recognize housing spans time and owners.
Is it okay to drill through and put screws into vinyl siding? I was under the impression that vinyl siding needed to expand and contract and therefore, a special vinyl mounting box was required? Is it acceptable to screw directly into vinyl siding? Would make the project much faster if so.
You can elongate the holes into slots if it becomes a problem.
@@handydadtv Brilliant idea, thank you!!
Love all the superior Electrician comments lol Great vid, thanks
Luckily I have a thick skin.
This was really helpful and well explained. Thank you for this!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
The GFCI is a good to make it Code compliment, but in a garage the wires need to be in a conduit .
Thanks!
i think MC cable is permitted in garage
MC usually counts as ‘flexible conduit’. Always check with your local inspector.
I also prefer running conduit through the siding to protect the wire from the cut edges of siding.
I also didn’t notice whether the outside outlet was weather rated.
If I want to add circuits (for example for exterior outlets) but my 100Amp breaker box is full, what are my options with relative, ball park prices? If it matters, I'm in Delaware, just outside of Wilmington city limits.
I’d recommend you get the panel upgraded to 200-amp rather than adding a subpanel. I have no idea of current prices, but before COVID, I paid around $2,000 in NJ.
Buy a tandem breaker. 15a or 20a. Its takes up 1 space but allows 2 circuits. Just be careful not to overload the panel. All new homes are 200a services at least. I've seen houses with 1000a services.
Great video! When connecting the white and ground wire in the breaker panel, do they need to correspond to the specific breaker or can you attach them to any free space on the panel?
Any free space can be used. Just keep the grounds on a separate bus from the neutrals.
@@handydadtvseparation of neutral and ground is only needed in a secondary box, but isn’t a bad idea anyway.
Sir u explained everything very nicely but the last part where you are making connections to the circuit breaker in the main box , u didn't explained much about it .
That was intentional. You’ll need to find another video about adding a circuit.
Thanks for replying so fast . But what's the title for the video , if u can guide me . Thanks in advance
@daveprashar Search for adding a circuit breaker.
Can a gfci protect outlets both upstream and downstream?
No, only downstream.
Thank you
A romex connector should be used to secure the romex cable where it enters the box to hold it from slipping and to seal the opening into the box. There are threads on the back to screw the connector onto the box.
Thanks
You should have an Arlington base to mount the box on, not just warping the siding
Thanks
Did not know about the duct seal ...
Thanks ...
It’s a good idea.
Can the gfci be located anywhere in the house for the incoming line? Or does it need to be located on the line outlet prior to the outside outlet as you had done?
Anywhere, as long as it is upstream of the exterior outlet. My house, built when GFCI's were pretty expensive, has the outdoor outlets protected by a CGFI in the bathrooms.
It annoys me when a house is wired with GFCI-protected outlets are far from the GFCI! I had to correct a situation like that: th-cam.com/video/dbmRETinw0A/w-d-xo.html
@@ianbutler1983fyi, I don’t think that’s code anymore. It’s certainly inconvenient.
One last note, you should have used the stickers provided with the gfci to identify the outlet as ground-fault protected.
I think that’s the dumbest practice, whether it’s code or not. Who would ever say “oh no I can’t plug my Christmas lights into that outlet because there’s no sticker.” And no home inspector worth his salt would trust the sticker. So they’re a useless waste of time.
But that’s my 2 cents.
@@handydadtv The sticker is to inform people that it’s protected. That’s what codes are all about. Keeping people safe and informed. Does equipment operate without grounds? Yes, but it’s more likely that simple issues could turn fatal. I understand that you can make your own decisions, but the next person owning your property should not have to be an expert to be safe. Rules are made so that we don’t have to triple check before plugging in a phone charger. Can things still go wrong? Always, but I’d rather be 99% safe than 40%.
1 question. Are all breakers compatible or do you need to buy a breaker the same brand as the main box?
The panel will say what “type” of breaker you need. But you don’t necessarily need the same brand.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
My pleasure!
Pretty good there! This stuff always scares me and prolly everyone new. I dont got time to die from electrocution. Thanks for this one!
It’s hard to die from 110v. But definitely hire an electrician if you’re not comfortable.
Very good video , thank you 👍
My pleasure!
1. I did not see that you used any type of wire strain relief connector for the exterior box. 2. That outlet is not weather rated or tamper resistant. I would have also used a 20 amp outlets instead of the 15 amp. You never know when you may need them. 3. Also you should have kept the gate. That way you can put it back when nothing is plugged into the outlet and this keeps anything from nesting inside the box.
Thanks
You explained it perfectly
Thanks so much 😊
gotta be honest when im doing electrical in trade school your gonna save my life
I’m like a virtual chest sheet.
Thank you ! I’ll be needing this soon.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Where in NJ are you? Are you free any weekend? I need to do this, I live in Bergen County 😂😂JK
LOL I just showed you how.
He just taught you how to fish. Lol
@@badtoro I was all amped up, pun intended, until he opened up the panel!!😂😂
@@handydadtv I appreciate the video, I think that I can do this, the panel scares me a little! Thanks for the tutorial!
you can't surface mount Romex it needs to be stranded and put in conduit
but most of the time mc works
Thanks for the comment.
Hi Handy Dad Mr. Chris,
Please explain me this one !, after scratching your head as I am doing also, here it is,
I just installed an outdoor gfci and continues to a metal box for a flood light with **plastic/pvc gray etc... Conduit , how in heaven there is ground in the metal box for the light with the green/ground cable not connected yet, I read 125 v. with meter, red to black wire , black to neutral 1st then put neutral prom from tester to box and it reads voltage, not only that, if I put the neutral black cable from the meter to the clamps attached to the house with 1 screw there is ground and voltage, **this is not a prank not a joke, when I do all this works I test everything to make sure everything is right, but as long as I know concrete does not transmit electricity or ground,, or does it ??
Please explain if you know the answer, cause I don't, thank you so much. Oh, I do have pictures and video AND is not photos hop or sh..t . I can send it if asked.
Please ! , and thank you !
I wouldn’t be turning that power back on without a good ground connection! Connect the ground properly and don’t lose sleep over the Earth acting as a conductor.
Thanks for always replying ! 👍🏻 yes I know ! , it is just that before I actually put a fixture in place, I always check voltage and ground etc... to make sure everything is good, no worries. But, I don't understand how there is ground in the box or clamp not connected to anything, do you know the explanation ? , maybe I am missing something from Science class or basic electricity, even though I am an Engineer but not electric one. There must be a principle I forgot.
@Batman-nf4nn Mysteries of the Universe
Concrete has a high enough water content to conduct electricity. That’s the main reason for gfci in basements and garages.
How much does a green egg weigh?
Ask Google
@@handydadtv I thought I was asking Siri, and got this instead. Sorry. 162 pounds BTW.
@mulvey0731 LOL good to know!
You are 100% NOT allowed to run NM cable exposed. Its extremely fragile and will get knicked by many things. Not to mention its a blatant code violation. That wire needs to be ran in FMC or EMT.
Thanks
Wires inside the garage are not protected. They need to be in conduit.
Thanks
@@handydadtv np
The outside duplex needs be WR and TR, this appears to be neither...Fail
Thanks
Pretty ugly exterior install, lots of other products to make it nicer
Thanks for the advice