How To Replace Fork Seals on a Suzuki DR650
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2019
- How To Replace Fork Seals On a Suzuki DR650:
www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sa...
Tearing into the forks of a motorcycle can seem like too big of a job for a lot of people. But learning how to replace them yourself will save you tons of time and money over the course of owning your bike. In this video, Justin shows the proper steps to replacing the fork seals on a Suzuki DR650.
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You forgot to specify one last important detail:
It is important to install the main spring, close pitch side up.
And one note:
The height of the oil is 164 mm (not as specified).
Besides that, a great tutorial video. Thanks!
Informative, detailed, and comprehensive demonstration of anatomy and what a front suspension is for DR650. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for the views and feedback.
Detailed yet concise. Well done.
+1 for a really well made video, a stand out among the many scruffy efforts out there.
Excellent video as always. Things like this and the great customer service your company provides has kept me as a customer for many years.
Rebuilding my DR650 forks for the first time in 8 years. If only I had a workbench like that...
Extremely helpful refresher. Well made, thanks!
This video is so freakin helpful. I have watched many. Parts are on the way - along with the "Seal Driver". I hope you are still with the company - as you did an amazing job. I'll say this - I wish you guys got credit for the fact I've watched this at least 5 times.
Best instructional video on how to replace the fork seal I've seen. Very well explained.
Thanks for checking it out!
Great video! I had an issue with the white plastic bushing getting lodged in the upper tube and locking the tubes together fully compressed. Probably due to something messed up... but my kits didn't come with a replacement for this bushing. Was able to work around it by not letting the upper tube settle all the way to it's bottom.
This video was terrific, thank you!! I love how detailed these are; it makes it super easy to follow along. Also appreciate the tips on which tools to use. I sometimes DIY something instead of purchasing a specialty tool, but in many cases it is worth it to get the special tool as it will make the job so much easier. I purchased all three of the tools mentioned here and they were so useful. Keep these videos coming Justin!
We love hearing that and that's exactly why we do these types of videos! Glad it helped out and thank you for the feedback!
Excellent tutorial! Thanks
Great video, very clear!! Thanks.
Great video. Very helpful. Thanks
what a Excellent video thank you soo much,
Excellent work mate
Great video. Well done.
Excellent.
Ive been putting off this project for quite some time! This video is so clear and helpful thank you so much!
Awesome! Glad we could help out!
@@rmatvmc which way is the washer supposed to be assembled before the oil seal?
Awesome video. Helps a ton!
Excellent vid. I tips me hat to you!!
Solid video!
One question. When I put the tube together, I had placed the thinner bushing on top of the larger one (that fits in the groove). I assembled and put back together. I know now that's not how it goes together, but when assembling the fork would the contours of the larger fork tube have slid everything into place? The fork works as expected.
Great video thanks!
great Video It helps Me to Replacement this Things:-) Top
Amigo cuantos litros lleva por barra ? Gracias
When tighten the dampening rod back inside the fork, does it need to be centered in the fork? My dampening rod is leaning. Basically it touches the inside of the fork on one side. Im having a lot of trouble getting it centered inside when i tightened it
I've rebuilt the forks with the cogent springs and emulator and replaced the bushings/ oil seal and dust seals but my right fork is squeaking still and when I open the top cap there are metal slivers. Any idea as to what my problem could be? I've checked each time to make sure my emulator is seated properly on top of the dampener rod. I took her on a ride today and the seal started leaking again. I'm at a loss now as I've torn the things apart five times.
I have an older DR650, 1992 model. I'm looking at buying these tools to change my fork seals but the website doesn't alway show my year bike when choosing to see if they are compatible. I'm trying to figure out if the 43mm tusk seal driver will work on my older DR650. Your website says it will work (43mm) on a 1992 DR250 and a 1996 DR650 but fails to mention if it will work on my year 1992 DR650. Just check if anyone knows the answer to this before I place my order. Thanks
Me puedes decir que numero es el sello
That's excellent work, congrats... One question: Do you know if the quantity of oil is the same for a 2013 model???
For a 2013 model, manufacturer calls for 600ml
Awesome! Would I need that tool for the DR-z 400 as well?
This tool is specific to the DR650 and has a 30mm hex but on the DR-Z you'll still need a very similar tool but it should have a 27mm hex head instead.
Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
@@rmatvmc Okay great! Thanks for the reply and the vids!
You can use an allen socket on a 1/2 inch drive x 14 inch extension vs buying the tusk tool.
That would be a huge allen socket (30mm). I suspect that will cost much more than the Tusk tool, but if you have it, use it!! - Justin
@@rmatvmc A lot of large mechanics kits like mine for otr trucks, and farm equipment have allen heads that go up to almost 50mm.
@@rmatvmc Are you saying the hex head on that Tusk T-bar tool is 30mm? For the tool minded among us welding up such a thing is quick, convenient, and cheap of course, and it seems clear that this is not a tool that needs to be critically accurate - as long as it restrains the internal tube from spinning then close enough will be good enough.
That is correct, the hex head is a 30mm!
What size bullet did you use
It would also be a good opportunity to upgrade the forks.
Are the US DR forks different to Australian, cos here in Oz I'm told 5wt oil and 110mm of gap?
Our US models 1996+ manual says OEM is 10w and 164mm (or 565ml). But Cogent says 5w oil (if using their emulators) and 130mm (or 600ml). Cogent says anywhere between 150 and 110mm is ok. But the US manual says more, and you're saying less.... so I think with lighter 5w oil, you need a bit (smaller oil level measurement) to more to get the similar effect as 10w. I don't know why anyone would use 5w in the OEM shocks without emulators. It's far too light. Usually you want HEAVIER oil in the OEM Dr650, not lighter, unless of course you're running emulators, then you NEED 5w
What size socket can I use instead of buying a dampening rod tool, gonna weld up my own out of spare steel rod
30mm
How did it turn out for welding? Curious in welding my own rod tool as well
@@ninesixteengenetix great, used it a couple times already, cos me $10 from hardware store galvanised plumbers pipe with end cap, only tac welded the nut onto the rod so it doesn't undo as your trying to remove the dampening rod
Anyone catch the PN for the bushing kit?
The first link in the description of this video will take you to all the parts and tools we used. The All Balls Fork Bushing Kit for this bike was part # 1688870017 or All Balls part # 38-6039.