This was one of the best technical videos I've ever seen, in any industry! Excellent job, no hype, well thought out and arranged in order of importance, and addressing clearly every critical aspect of your product. Thank you.
Super-helpful. I'm setting up two sets on my daughters' commuter/gravel/cross bikes, and I may put a set on my Straggler, too. Thanks for making well-thought out products and providing great support!
This was an awesome video. Saved me a fortune in repairs. Very clear and thorough. I didn't have a clue about hydraulic brakes before, feels like a real achievement to have fixed mine myself!
This video was very helpful. This is a much needed update from the previous bleed video on youtube and came at just the right time for me. I found the lever purge to be particularly useful and got a lot of extra air out the system by rotating the caliper. I was bleeding the caliper as after 4 years of regular use I thought the caliper was at the ends of its life. This bleed has helped but the performance is still not what I would like. Would TRP consider making a video showing how the caliper can be further serviced possibly examining replacing seals etc. You can buy lots of small part from the TRP website for this caliper. It would be nice to see how to use them. Perhaps I could gain extra performance this way.
Glad to hear this video served its purpose! We will start to draw up more videos like this with replacing small parts like piston seals, levers, and master cylinders!
Hey TRP guys..."lazy pistons" is a common issue on ALL hydraulic brakes...so would you kindly make a piston clean up and service for TRP Hy/Rd? That would be a great help for us TRP HY/RD users! 😀
Dear Dave and TRP Team. I have bought a Triban RC520 which comes wíth Hy-Road PostMount 160 Rotor break system. No matter what I do how I set, adjust, clean and make anything on against my best knowledge and many videos on youtube, one side of the pistons still wont set back. It is just simply does not retract back to its place. There is 0mm distance between my disc and the break pad reagardless how many times I re-set the piston. For a year now and countless of hours of trials on adjusments, my front break drags and breaks all the time. It drives me crazy as my wheel wont spin a 1/4 round without stopping by the dragging-sloppy break pad/piston. Could you please help me somehow? Do I need to purchase a new front-set eventually? :(
trying not to knock you but when you bleed anything, you do not reintroduce old fluid back into the chamber, bleeding a car brakes it the same, one way only. what you just did was make old dirty fluid, medium dirty. and taking air out at the end is agreeable but during the transfer fluid no.
Yes, this is true. When bleeding brakes we do an initial flush and then begin to cycle the new fluid after discarding the old. Thank you for pointing this out as missing in the video, we will be sure to get it corrected.
This is a great video, the only issue is that the Hy/Rd brakes I have seem to be slightly different and I can't tell where I should be pumping fluid into/out of?! I bought them in 2022 so I would have thought they're the latest model? Manuals don't seem to show the updated calipers either. Please advise
I have the same problem! Mine are the same model number (HD-C711) as the one pictured, but look distinctly different, and I can't tell based on the one in the video where the bleed ports would be on mine.
If i still feel the need to tighten the cable more for the lever not to brake so close to the handlebar, can i tighten the cable more even if the lock knob will not be threaded?
First make sure you are using compression less cable housing, that will help take a lot of slack out of the cable. We don't recommend adjusting the arm past the lock knob or you risk closing off the timing port. That will cause the brakes to lose power.
I've been using a Shimano 105 STI paired with TRP HY/RD cable actuated Hydraulic brakes on my first roadbike. recently the rear brake has stiffened up quite a bit, especially on the first press. I checked the brake cable below my bike and i noticed a slight bend when it used to be straight. my mechanic said it was fine, and I am still able to brake, but it just makes the feel a lot stiffer than I'd like. what should I do? Is it a problem with my brake lever? Is it an issue with the cable? Thanks in advance everyone!
It sounds like that bend in the line is just creating more friction on the lever than if it were straight. We would suggest just changing your cable and housing out for some new ones. This is very inexpensive and it will get that lever feeling very sharp. Try going with a Jagwire compressionless housing or our own housing and cable kit which can be purchased here: trpcycling.com/product/trp-discconnect-cable-and-housing-kit/
man wth, how the hell do you even use barrel adjuster, I unscrew counterclockwise and now it's completely loose and cannot be tightened at all, it won't budge when trying to screw back in, wth, help,pls
Hi there Soni ride street trials with TRP evo but i think i need to sell them and get something else. 1. Problem - pad rock. It make horrible noises. 2. Problem - everytime i start my ride my brakes do not work. I have to first pour water on them and then bed them in.
Hi, my HY/RD brakes do not work at all, even when unlocked. I can see that the brake pads are moving. Also my brakes do not automaticity bleed. How do I make them bleed aside from pulling on the lever till firm even with the caliper up right? Also is there a slick coat on the pads that makes them barely grab? Even after centering the brakes they do not work.
Hi there, if you are having issues with your HY/RD brakes still, please contact our customer service team at info@trpcycling.com and they will get you helped out. The brakes don't automatically bleed per say, they automatically adjust to pad wear by backing the pistons with oil as the pads wear down. If you are having an issue with bite on the rotors, make sure the pads are bedded into the surface of the rotors and there is no contamination to the system.
It sounds like there may be air trapped in your brake or the timing port is closed off. Please reach out to our technical team at info@trpcycling.com for further assistance troubleshooting the brake.
Hey TRP guys, quick question: is the barrel adjuster threading M6 or M7? I bought a set off ebay missing the barrel adjusters and scuttlebut is M6, but it'd be great to have confirmation from y'all directly. Thanks!
The HY/RD is only produced as a 2-piston brake and we don't have plans to create a 4-piston one. If you are looking for a 4 piston brake, it would be a good idea to just make it a full hydraulic system rather than cable actuated.
I have a set of these on a new bike with Shimano 105 levers. I have an extremely long pull on braking, and I'm not confident I am getting enough braking power to ride on the streets. I purchased this bike online so I have no LBS to help with my problem. I've made sure the actuator arm screws in easily, and I've bled the front brake according to instructions but his had no noticeable affect. I have read there are many defective TRP HY/RD brakes so I am wondering if this might be the case for me. Is there any way to determine/lookup if my brakes are some of the defective ones? Many thanks!
Can I use them on mtb which has dropbars and Campagnolo chorus 12 speed sti shifters? Now I have flatbars and Magura mt4 4 nur I need cable actuated breaks. The MTB is for 70% on road and 30% on road.
If you are planning to use a short pull brake lever like Campagnolo (or SRAM or older non-SLR-EV Shimano) you will want to swap the actuator arm on the TRP HY/RD for a short pull version: th-cam.com/video/JoNIqoguOKs/w-d-xo.html
what i did was to reverse the cable locking screws...I screwed my cable from below, not on top (the usual way)...it lessens the cable travel during actuation...if you're a bit more adventurous, you can do this: th-cam.com/video/8aBa3sGUUhs/w-d-xo.html
May I know where are the bleed ports of TRP HD C-710 located? This model (HD C-705 I assume) has 2 bleed ports on the front, while in HD C-710 there is only one which is located in the reservoir.
The bleed port for the reservoir is located on the outboard side of the reservoir and the bleed port on the caliper is located on the outboard side as well, directly underneath the pad. The easiest way to locate the ports would be by the screws as they are T-25 specific.
Good Video. Would be perfect video if you shows how far the pistons can be pushed out (for cleaning reason) before they pop out... Or where are the cleaning - maintains videos. Thank you.
Good point! The farthest you should go is 3 mm. This is the true usable area of the piston. The entire piston measures 5 mm in depth but during normal brake function, only about 3 mm will see dirt and grime gather.
We wouldn't recommend doing this procedure with the brake mounted on the bike as there is a good chance you will contaminate your pads and rotors with excess oil coming from the reservoir. In other words, you can do it, but you will experience issues after the fact so taking it off the bike and moving the system to a work station is definitely the way to go.
I actually did it...I removed the wheels from the bike; removed the pads too...hang the bike and did the 2-way bleed which is easier done on a HD C-170 flat mount model since the 2nd bleed port is located on the inboard side of the caliper.
clearly explained, however why things got so complicated? this is crazy. leaving it a few hours under compression, even overnight?!?! besides, it takes a lot of dexterity, one has to perform the full procedure always holding the caliper, grasping tools, settings little parts aside..... crazy design
If you wanted to use a bleed cup, you would have to actuate the lever in order to get fluid to flow back into the syringe. It will also likely be very messy using a bleed cup so while it is possible, we recommend using the dual syringe process.
Nope! All of our brakes come completely pre-bled from the factory so all you need to do is mount it on the frame, run the cable through and you have a working brake!
don't align the rotor. align the brake calliper: loosen the screws, pull the cable and tighten the screws again. It is that simple. If it's still not alligned, the rotor may be damaged and needs replacement Also make sure your wheels are not bend and installed correctly.
If properly maintained, the HY/RD can roll perfectly for years! However, if it starts to feel spongey or the levers start pulling to the bar, it might be time for a bleed.
Bleeding looks as much a palaver with these as any other hydraulic brake, perhaps more than Shimano. I guess the cable-pull actuation means that you'll never split a hydraulic hose but I think I'll be sticking with my TRP Spyre mechanicals.
Never tried the Spyres, although I've heard good things about them; but I do like the hy/rd on my gravel bike. In general I've found mechanical brakes are plenty powerful in the drops but lack something on the hoods -- that's true for both disc and rim. On the road it doesn't matter, but on singletrack the extra power of hydraulics on the hoods is something I really appreciate. As for the bleed procedure, if anything it's a little *more* fiddly than the hydraulic bleeds I've done, but I suspect Dave is being a more obsessively perfectionist than he strictly needs to be. Still, the procedure doesn't actually look *hard*, in the sense of being something you can screw up. It looks like something that would be a lot easier after you'd done it once. I really like the fact you can do it off the bike, at a bench. That's bound to be a lot neater.
these brakes are a royal pain the ass, and they work no better than mechanical brakes. the bicycle industry is rife with moron engineers, taking orders from the marketing department. these barks suck: over engineered for no real bebenfit. i threw mine in the trash. life is too short: get paul mechnicals or equal brakes.
I've had these on my bike for over two years. Replaced the awful Giant conduct system which was also cable actuated hydraulic. They're both way better than mechanical disc and the TRPs are the better of the two. How ae they a pain in the ass?
This was one of the best technical videos I've ever seen, in any industry! Excellent job, no hype, well thought out and arranged in order of importance, and addressing clearly every critical aspect of your product. Thank you.
Couldn't agree more! Very well done. I've bookmarked for future reference.
Thank you!!! We are glad it helped.
This helps me out a lot with my hy/rd brakes, I'm a big fan of TRP products and have spyre and hy/rd on all of my bikes.
Merci pour le tutoriel qui est nécessaire pour faire proprement la purge de ce frein et son réglage. Bonne explication 👍
Super-helpful. I'm setting up two sets on my daughters' commuter/gravel/cross bikes, and I may put a set on my Straggler, too. Thanks for making well-thought out products and providing great support!
10:13 is where you were looking for tensioning the cable and setup a shorter pull on the lever
This was an awesome video. Saved me a fortune in repairs. Very clear and thorough. I didn't have a clue about hydraulic brakes before, feels like a real achievement to have fixed mine myself!
Very helpful vidéo, thanks tout very much ! A useful addition (maybe just above the vidéo) could be that two M6 connectors are needed.
Great suggestion, that is definitely an important addition!
Top Job, even i managed to follow this and my front brake is now super sharp!
Excellent tech video, well presented and very easy to follow 👍🏻
This video was very helpful. This is a much needed update from the previous bleed video on youtube and came at just the right time for me. I found the lever purge to be particularly useful and got a lot of extra air out the system by rotating the caliper. I was bleeding the caliper as after 4 years of regular use I thought the caliper was at the ends of its life. This bleed has helped but the performance is still not what I would like. Would TRP consider making a video showing how the caliper can be further serviced possibly examining replacing seals etc. You can buy lots of small part from the TRP website for this caliper. It would be nice to see how to use them. Perhaps I could gain extra performance this way.
Glad to hear this video served its purpose! We will start to draw up more videos like this with replacing small parts like piston seals, levers, and master cylinders!
@@TRPcomponents Any update on the seal replacement? I've a leaking caliper I'd like to try and service.
@@leeomurchu1213 please contact our customer service team at info@trpcycling.com and they can get you helped out!
Hey TRP guys..."lazy pistons" is a common issue on ALL hydraulic brakes...so would you kindly make a piston clean up and service for TRP Hy/Rd? That would be a great help for us TRP HY/RD users! 😀
The HY/RD would follow the same sticking piston procedure as the mountain brakes: th-cam.com/video/1Wly5osFXz4/w-d-xo.html
Hi, thank you very much for your advice. I very much appreciate it.
Dear Dave and TRP Team. I have bought a Triban RC520 which comes wíth Hy-Road PostMount 160 Rotor break system. No matter what I do how I set, adjust, clean and make anything on against my best knowledge and many videos on youtube, one side of the pistons still wont set back. It is just simply does not retract back to its place. There is 0mm distance between my disc and the break pad reagardless how many times I re-set the piston. For a year now and countless of hours of trials on adjusments, my front break drags and breaks all the time. It drives me crazy as my wheel wont spin a 1/4 round without stopping by the dragging-sloppy break pad/piston.
Could you please help me somehow? Do I need to purchase a new front-set eventually? :(
I have these trp hy/rd flatmount and dont know how to bleed them can you help?
trying not to knock you but when you bleed anything, you do not reintroduce old fluid back into the chamber, bleeding a car brakes it the same, one way only. what you just did was make old dirty fluid, medium dirty. and taking air out at the end is agreeable but during the transfer fluid no.
Yes, this is true. When bleeding brakes we do an initial flush and then begin to cycle the new fluid after discarding the old. Thank you for pointing this out as missing in the video, we will be sure to get it corrected.
These are great brakes, the only cons are the weight, and the fact that you have to take the whole brake out so you can change the pads.
very good solution!
This is a great video, the only issue is that the Hy/Rd brakes I have seem to be slightly different and I can't tell where I should be pumping fluid into/out of?! I bought them in 2022 so I would have thought they're the latest model?
Manuals don't seem to show the updated calipers either.
Please advise
I have the same problem! Mine are the same model number (HD-C711) as the one pictured, but look distinctly different, and I can't tell based on the one in the video where the bleed ports would be on mine.
Kindly post an elaborate video on how to bleed the Hylex RS model as there are no tutorials on TH-cam.
Would you recommend to take it of the bike to bleed it?
great post
I have 2 bolts on my resiouver? Why should I use? I have a flat mount version.
What is the total reservoir volume? I.e. how much oil do I need for a full change?
Can I use different mineral oil to bleed?
If i still feel the need to tighten the cable more for the lever not to brake so close to the handlebar, can i tighten the cable more even if the lock knob will not be threaded?
First make sure you are using compression less cable housing, that will help take a lot of slack out of the cable. We don't recommend adjusting the arm past the lock knob or you risk closing off the timing port. That will cause the brakes to lose power.
I've been using a Shimano 105 STI paired with TRP HY/RD cable actuated Hydraulic brakes on my first roadbike. recently the rear brake has stiffened up quite a bit, especially on the first press. I checked the brake cable below my bike and i noticed a slight bend when it used to be straight. my mechanic said it was fine, and I am still able to brake, but it just makes the feel a lot stiffer than I'd like. what should I do? Is it a problem with my brake lever? Is it an issue with the cable? Thanks in advance everyone!
It sounds like that bend in the line is just creating more friction on the lever than if it were straight. We would suggest just changing your cable and housing out for some new ones. This is very inexpensive and it will get that lever feeling very sharp. Try going with a Jagwire compressionless housing or our own housing and cable kit which can be purchased here: trpcycling.com/product/trp-discconnect-cable-and-housing-kit/
Each time or kilometers it need to change this mineral oil?
man wth, how the hell do you even use barrel adjuster, I unscrew counterclockwise and now it's completely loose and cannot be tightened at all, it won't budge when trying to screw back in, wth, help,pls
very good
Hi there
Soni ride street trials with TRP evo but i think i need to sell them and get something else.
1. Problem - pad rock. It make horrible noises.
2. Problem - everytime i start my ride my brakes do not work. I have to first pour water on them and then bed them in.
It sounds like the pads/ rotors may be glazed or contaminated.
Hi, for the flat mount version I can’t see the second bleed port plug by the pistons. Where is it located at??
behind...i got confused with it the first time as well.
Hi, my HY/RD brakes do not work at all, even when unlocked. I can see that the brake pads are moving. Also my brakes do not automaticity bleed. How do I make them bleed aside from pulling on the lever till firm even with the caliper up right? Also is there a slick coat on the pads that makes them barely grab?
Even after centering the brakes they do not work.
Hi there, if you are having issues with your HY/RD brakes still, please contact our customer service team at info@trpcycling.com and they will get you helped out.
The brakes don't automatically bleed per say, they automatically adjust to pad wear by backing the pistons with oil as the pads wear down. If you are having an issue with bite on the rotors, make sure the pads are bedded into the surface of the rotors and there is no contamination to the system.
I don't understand the actuation arm position issue. might be nice to add arrows to video to make that clearer.
I'm not getting enough travel to brake pads from the pistons to give good braking ,any ideas?
It sounds like there may be air trapped in your brake or the timing port is closed off. Please reach out to our technical team at info@trpcycling.com for further assistance troubleshooting the brake.
Hey TRP guys, quick question: is the barrel adjuster threading M6 or M7? I bought a set off ebay missing the barrel adjusters and scuttlebut is M6, but it'd be great to have confirmation from y'all directly. Thanks!
The threading would be an M6.
Hi, thank you very much for this video. Do you have 4 piston TRP HY/RD caliper apart from this one? Or is there going to be one? Thank you!
The HY/RD is only produced as a 2-piston brake and we don't have plans to create a 4-piston one. If you are looking for a 4 piston brake, it would be a good idea to just make it a full hydraulic system rather than cable actuated.
I have a set of these on a new bike with Shimano 105 levers. I have an extremely long pull on braking, and I'm not confident I am getting enough braking power to ride on the streets. I purchased this bike online so I have no LBS to help with my problem. I've made sure the actuator arm screws in easily, and I've bled the front brake according to instructions but his had no noticeable affect. I have read there are many defective TRP HY/RD brakes so I am wondering if this might be the case for me. Is there any way to determine/lookup if my brakes are some of the defective ones? Many thanks!
Go ahead and email our customer service team at info@trpcycling.com and they can help you out!
can I use shimano mineral oil to bleed my calipers?
Can I use them on mtb which has dropbars and Campagnolo chorus 12 speed sti shifters? Now I have flatbars and Magura mt4 4 nur I need cable actuated breaks. The MTB is for 70% on road and 30% on road.
If you are planning to use a short pull brake lever like Campagnolo (or SRAM or older non-SLR-EV Shimano) you will want to swap the actuator arm on the TRP HY/RD for a short pull version: th-cam.com/video/JoNIqoguOKs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. My break lever takes quite a long throw to actuate, does that mean that i should purge them ? The locking bolt is aligned...
what i did was to reverse the cable locking screws...I screwed my cable from below, not on top (the usual way)...it lessens the cable travel during actuation...if you're a bit more adventurous, you can do this: th-cam.com/video/8aBa3sGUUhs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video but we need to see the adjustment on the wheel .
May I know where are the bleed ports of TRP HD C-710 located? This model (HD C-705 I assume) has 2 bleed ports on the front, while in HD C-710 there is only one which is located in the reservoir.
The bleed port for the reservoir is located on the outboard side of the reservoir and the bleed port on the caliper is located on the outboard side as well, directly underneath the pad. The easiest way to locate the ports would be by the screws as they are T-25 specific.
@@TRPcomponents I am pretty sure the HD C-710 has only one bleed port on the outside
@@24tisoy it's behind or what they refer to as "inboard" side of the caliper
Hi thanks so much for the great video? Im desperately looking for a bleed kit here in Germany. Could guide me to where I can find one?
Check eBay. That's where I got mine
Good Video. Would be perfect video if you shows how far the pistons can be pushed out (for cleaning reason) before they pop out...
Or where are the cleaning - maintains videos.
Thank you.
Good point! The farthest you should go is 3 mm. This is the true usable area of the piston. The entire piston measures 5 mm in depth but during normal brake function, only about 3 mm will see dirt and grime gather.
Hi! Where I can by service kit for this brakes (in Europe)?
You can find them through our Europe office! Please email info@tektro.eu
Maybe you gona say im crazy but i installed hy/rd on my freeside mtb and it has a good stopping power because its working with 203mm rotors...
Well the hyrd are the best cable disc brakes so yes they have a good stopping power.
Good overview. It doesn't look like it, but can this be done with the brake mounted on the bike?
We wouldn't recommend doing this procedure with the brake mounted on the bike as there is a good chance you will contaminate your pads and rotors with excess oil coming from the reservoir. In other words, you can do it, but you will experience issues after the fact so taking it off the bike and moving the system to a work station is definitely the way to go.
I actually did it...I removed the wheels from the bike; removed the pads too...hang the bike and did the 2-way bleed which is easier done on a HD C-170 flat mount model since the 2nd bleed port is located on the inboard side of the caliper.
clearly explained, however why things got so complicated? this is crazy. leaving it a few hours under compression, even overnight?!?! besides, it takes a lot of dexterity, one has to perform the full procedure always holding the caliper, grasping tools, settings little parts aside..... crazy design
Could u use bleed cup and syringe instead of double syringe? Ty
If you wanted to use a bleed cup, you would have to actuate the lever in order to get fluid to flow back into the syringe. It will also likely be very messy using a bleed cup so while it is possible, we recommend using the dual syringe process.
Why mix old and new fluid?
Hi, TRP HY/RD brake pad are made of resin or iron ? Thanks
They are made from Organic Resin.
@@TRPcomponents thank you
WAIT THIS HAS TO BE BLEEDED ? 3 YEARS OF USING THEM, 12K KM AND NOTHING LIKE THIS DONE
How often do you recommend this bleed service?
based on feel
Do I need to bleed a brand new, out of the box Hy/Rd?
Nope! All of our brakes come completely pre-bled from the factory so all you need to do is mount it on the frame, run the cable through and you have a working brake!
@@TRPcomponents How often should I bleed the Hy/Rd brakes?
Doing this now. Its a night mare. Memorize steps, have extra oil. Prepare to fail.
How to align the Rotor?
don't align the rotor. align the brake calliper: loosen the screws, pull the cable and tighten the screws again. It is that simple. If it's still not alligned, the rotor may be damaged and needs replacement
Also make sure your wheels are not bend and installed correctly.
How often do people have to do this?
If properly maintained, the HY/RD can roll perfectly for years! However, if it starts to feel spongey or the levers start pulling to the bar, it might be time for a bleed.
Great video but why make things so complicated .Taking parts off like this to service seems antiquated to me .
подскажите где можно ремонтный комплект купить ? потек цилиндр
Aliexpress
Bleeding looks as much a palaver with these as any other hydraulic brake, perhaps more than Shimano. I guess the cable-pull actuation means that you'll never split a hydraulic hose but I think I'll be sticking with my TRP Spyre mechanicals.
Never tried the Spyres, although I've heard good things about them; but I do like the hy/rd on my gravel bike. In general I've found mechanical brakes are plenty powerful in the drops but lack something on the hoods -- that's true for both disc and rim. On the road it doesn't matter, but on singletrack the extra power of hydraulics on the hoods is something I really appreciate.
As for the bleed procedure, if anything it's a little *more* fiddly than the hydraulic bleeds I've done, but I suspect Dave is being a more obsessively perfectionist than he strictly needs to be. Still, the procedure doesn't actually look *hard*, in the sense of being something you can screw up. It looks like something that would be a lot easier after you'd done it once. I really like the fact you can do it off the bike, at a bench. That's bound to be a lot neater.
Magari tradurlo in italiano!? Grazie
these brakes are a royal pain the ass, and they work no better than mechanical brakes. the bicycle industry is rife with moron engineers, taking orders from the marketing department. these barks suck: over engineered for no real bebenfit. i threw mine in the trash. life is too short: get paul mechnicals or equal brakes.
I've had these on my bike for over two years. Replaced the awful Giant conduct system which was also cable actuated hydraulic. They're both way better than mechanical disc and the TRPs are the better of the two. How ae they a pain in the ass?