Things I used in this video: 1. Voltmeter: amzn.to/2BQ0K2W 2. Common Sense 3. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 4. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 5. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 6. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Scotty Kilmer had a question so I have a Acura TSX 05 so a couple days ago my battery was dead so I thought I had a bad battery and alternator so I changed both but I went to advanced so they could check my battery and alternator it should that alternator wasn’t getting any voltage so I installed a new alternator and it still shows no voltage could you help me out?
Scotty Kilmer I have a 95 Nissan Pathfinder my negative terminal melted then I found bare wires underneath the car but they look like they're coming from the positive terminal they're burned out where would they go to put new battery in battery will not start car
Yes, it was great meeting you, if I get any VW questions, I'll be sure to tap your brain. Yesterday I went back to shell and filmed a couple vids on gas to oil conversion and The Woman Who Knows Engines. And I found out how you guys probably got a better price on the premium oil, they aren't making much profit on dealership and maufacturer sales, it's a PR move. Figuring if OEMs use it, the public will follow using that very same oil. It's all about what the public will buy, just like my vids being for the general public. It's a VAST audience.
Heck yea man! That is awesome you got to shoot that video you wanted. That gal I think her name was Shanna or something. She is freaking smart and knows her stuff. If I can ever help ya out with anything VW, let me know. I'd be happy to help out. Cheers Charles
Thank you so much Scotty. love your channel you've taught me so much and just when Im about ready to throw the white flag you save the day every time. I'm watching from Midland, TX. I drive a 2004 Chevy trailblazer 4×4 with 304,000 miles. It was a ex police vehicle so my radio wire harness was not wired the correct way. I had to rearrange all the pins back to their original places to get my radio to power on. Before I found out the wiring issue I had installed a new transmission by myself with no experience at all which didn't do me any good because I still had the same problems, just to find out it was bad wiring contact. Once I fixed the harness the truck ran with no issues.
Scotty, I must thank you for all the videos that you have religiously posted and taught me the basics of being a mechanically inclined. I would be nowhere with my project without these videos.
yes, check your anti theft system if it has one and it needs resetting. If not, check the battery terminals and wires to see if they are not getting power from being loose or cracked
weak connections, try unplugging them all , cleaning them, and snapping them back together. Pray it's not a computer circuit problem, they need replacing.
I have a ls400 98 it died and i change the battery no start alsoi changed the alternator about 3 months ago and it cuts on when it jumps but no lights on inside the car but car running but wont move and also will shut off after a while if i hook up battery charger soon as i cut it off the volts immediately goes back to zero and wont start back up unless i jump it but it just wont move even the gas pedal wont engage
could be bad wiring, check around the alternator wires first. More often a bad alternator. O2 sensors can go bad many ways, so you normally trust the computer on board to diagnose that and flag a code when bad
I keep coming back to your videos, Scotty. Great info. I just diagnosed a bad ground wire on the left high beam of my 2000 Nissan Maxima. I fixed it by running a jumper wire from the other light. I could not find the broken ground, but the guy I bought the car off of could not find it either. Lots of light now.
Thank you so much for this. Seriously, both my father and my brother were/are master mechanics, and both have tried to explain things to me. Some things I understood but some I just couldn't grasp, because like many people they explained things as though they were talking to another mechanic. Your explanations are simple yet expansive, helpful without being condescending. Thank you again.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at th-cam.com/video/VognjkYaMjg/w-d-xo.html&feature=c4-overview . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video on the scotty kilmer channel on TH-cam, th-cam.com/users/scottykilmer , so don’t miss them.
I just went through a similar problem to the example shown here (parking lights come on when stepping on the brake). I followed the "start with the easy stuff" method, and was pleased to find out within minutes that the problem was an internal short IN THE BRAKE LIGHT BULB ITSELF. The brake filament had partially melted due to wear and tear and was touching the tail light filament, which every time I stepped on the brake would feed electricity through the tail light circuit (which illuminated parking lamps and dash/gauge lights, in addition to causing my aftermarket stereo to dim its display due to power on the illumination lead). This was definitely an odd electrical problem I have only seen once before, and I was glad to find it was not a problem with the wiring itself. Additionally, many Saab 900/9000s and Volvo 240/740s are known for tail lamp ground issues - putting on a turn signal would flash alternating between turn signal and backup lamp (one Saab I worked on, the turn signal would flash the brake and backup lamps when your foot was on the brake but act normally when not braking) or other weird reactions as the electrons flow through other circuits to find a better ground.
could be a bad ground or wiring problem to the alternator. As that belt broke, MANY wires or sensors could have been damaged, check in that area first.
check all the fuses in all the fuse boxes, pray you just blew one, you probably did. If not, start tracing the wiring from the dome back to everywhere to find shorts.
Wow, simple test. Alas, something the simple solution guy, who may be slightly leaning towards the Mr. Magoo direction doesn't know the two other steps you so graciously provided. Thanks again Scotty.
I didn't think I was going to like your videos, no lie haha. But I've been having problems with my car and I just go to your TH-cam channel and see if there's anything here to help me out. And there is so I appreciate you making these videos. These are very helpful
What if my car isn't running yet due to the ground issues? Technically it runs, but the starter won't stop cranking once started. And it labors cranking
If you hear clicking and no cranking then your battery doesn’t have enough voltage to kick out the starter, if you hear nothing it could most likely be the solenoid. Check the battery to see if it has at least 12.4 v if not then charge it, it’s the minimum starting voltage for all cars. If it reads that or higher and its not kicking it’s likely the solenoid or a bad ground/high resistance or an open.
hey scotty i have a integra and im having trouble my headlights wont turn on at all after a few wires touched each other and something went wronb i changed fuses but still wont work pls help thnk u
my 1999 honda civic lights flickering when the engine is running also the engine stutters at a certain speed when im accerlerating, but as soon as the flickering stop the stuttering from the engine stop too, what could be causing that?
Scotty Kilmer Don't forget to tip the guys.. especially if they install a battery,headlamps,diagnostic etc... they are underpaid for what they do... The kid at sonic gets more for barely walking 2 feet to ur car...too many Mercedes D bags try and come take advantage of us to get free labor cause they really can't afford their car or service
My 97 civic dashboard instruments don't work. Went to the gas station to pump gas and when I tried to turn it back on it wouldn't. 10 minutes later I try again and it finally turns on. BUT, the rpm meter acts fishy and when I break (even if I slighty tap the break) the rpm goes all the way down to zero. Also, when I turn on a turn signal, the rpm goes up and down at the same time as the turn signal flickers. Lastly, if I turn on my stereo, it also brings rpm down to zero and my stereo also just turns off out of nowhere. Idk what's wrong..
Thanks Scotty!! You gave me my next task in troubleshooting my car - talk about weird? I was "just driving along" with headlights on, and suddenly the radio turned itself on! (started playing beautiful music) - - I already was aware of weird, fugitive electrical behaviors, so I tried turning the headlights off, and voila, radio went off. (but it did NOT go back on when i turned the lights back on) BTW I had already set its (the radio) fuse aside, so it shouldn't have been capable of turning on anyways - - also, the right parking lights (Mercedes) will NOT turn off when the car is off - - I appreciate your clue, to start checking for faulty grounding wires . . . . wish me luck . . . . now I am starting to see why this beautiful car was only $1000 Hahahahaha!!!
Hi Scotty, I dont give advice anymore I just search for one of your videos and post that---like weird light problems caused by grounds :) Keep up the good work you are helping a lot of folks out
Is a multi-meter and a volt meter the same? I have a multi-meter. I'm having and intermittent battery drain issue. It was 3.50amps. I pulled the interior light fused and it dropped drastically to .50 amps. I pulled every fuse and I can't get that .50 amps down. So I'm guessing the draw might be in the wiring. Can I use my multi-meter to check volts on a wire. My meter does not have clamps it has pointy sticks only. Thanks.
it depends on who u talk to, I call it a DVOM (digital volt-ohm meter) or a fluke, which is the brand I use. if the car is off I'd say a half an amp .50 of draw is normal. when u pulled your done light fuse was it on? depending on the number and type of some lights 3 or so amps is normal for operation for a car that has multiple incandescent bulbs as some lights. I would suggest having your battery tested as a start as a weak battery loses charge quickly once the charging system stops charging the battery.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On TH-cam . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
if the bulbs were working then why replace them? you need to see where they are getting the power TO work. Brake switch near the pedal may need to be replaced OR simply adjusted
thanks a lot Scott you really know a lot about cars. I checked for corrosion in my cars computer and sure enough. corroded green tips. I cleaned it up and my 3 codes disappeared. thanks again you saved me in time of need.
Hi Scotty, I have a 2000 Blazer with a check light on. It will not activate the scan meter. Tried at Autzone, Advance Auto & a friends meter. When I disconnected the battery to try to reset the light, it came right back on. Never ran into this before. The only fuse blown is the cigarette lighter which was out for ever. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance, Joe Z
"You really don't care what its doing when it's sitting there resting" I heard: "You really don't care what it's doing when it's sitting there rusting"
thanks for your sharing your acknowledge and experience. I have a Toy/Yaris 2007 and it seems to be a ground problem...I found that the main relay for the EFI does NOT have ground, car does crank but it won't start...ANY SUGESTIONS ??? ,,,very much appreciated in advance.
Scotty I have a 2007 chevy Tahoe. the guy I bought it from was a younger guy and of course added LED lights in everything lighted area to be found along with a light bar and custom stereo. Im not sure if this may be the cause of the problems that I am having but we are mind blown. I have had the truck for 7 months. only in the last 2months has this problem started. The hazard lights are just randomly getting stuck on. When this happens you have no turn signals at all, no clicking noise, and no brake lights. At time it would just stop and now for the last week it has seemed to have frozen this way. The heated seats cut themselves off and on constantly. The dash lights seem to dim at times and then brighten more at times. when the blinker does work you can here the blinker clicking through the stereo sound at times. Again all this is random. No certain time that it takes place. We have checked fuses and cant locate any that have blown. Also about a week before the hazards froze the air/heat stopped blowing. It will still heat and blow cold air if your going down the road but to actually blow it wont work at all. If you crank the truck the hazards are on , you put in reverse you can turn on the hazard switch and it will work but if you put in drive the hazards will not work at all along with tail lights or brake lights.??????? begging for help from anyone that can point us in the right direction??? we wish to undo all the extra that was added on this truck and take it back to factory setup !!! HELPPPPPPPPP
Hey Scotty- I have a '13 Chevy Camaro with a standard transmission. 28Kmi. Radio cuts out if I coast and the RPMs get below 750. It also always happens when running on battery after 1 min. It turns back on right away but not properly CD error shows up and sometimes there will be no sound. It just started a month ago and it is the only problem with the car. I have to turn the car off and re-start it for the radio to work right. It also has never seen road salt and the battery and its connections are good. My guess is a bad solder joint on the radio's circuit board? It seems like an occasional power starved situation.
Scotty. I have viewed and executed your 2 videos on using a volt meter and a test light to check for a grounding issue. The test light was on the whole time I was pulling fuses with no turn off. I have checked 4 main areas for ground to frame issues. I pulled the cluster out and looked for anything wacky there, seemed intact. Where else can I look or test? Essentially my cluster is going bonkers on all the gauges. Vehicle runs fine, its a 2000 Chevy Silverado. I appreciate your videos. very stumped.
Massive help, especially opened my eyes to the fact cars have grounding connections in the trunk! Any others I should know about? Water got in my car after a hard rain, basically a puddle in the passenger side of the car, now the seat belt fault light keeps flashing and beeping, even if no one is sitting in the seat, also turning on the headlights causes the beeping to stop or act up intermitently, any ideas? I did clean and use dilectric grease on the connector under the seat with no fix
Thanks for writing back about my 1990 Chevy Lumina. I agree that the idle screw should not be adjusted. Recently though I got my car out of a mechanics shop and when I got the car back the idle was up so high that the transmission was slamming every time I would stick it into gear. The original problem was still not taken care of because the car kept dying at stop lights and signs and it was blowing smoke. I took it back to them and one of the mechanics comes out and adjusts the idle set screw. The car would not slam into gear but it did not solve the problem of dying. I had to smog the car. The smog specialist could not even get the car started without problems and the black smoke was belching. He opened the hood looked to the back of the engine and cut part of the rubber hose going into the MAP sensor and all of the sudden the car ran and passed smog. But when I got it out on the street it still wanted to die at stop lights and stop signs and I had to feather the gas. I finally had an idea. I bet the first mechanic had turned the idle screw to low. So I adjusted the screw just a little at a time and then the engine kept running smoothly at the stop lights and stop signs without dying. So far the car is running like it should for a car that has 350,000 miles running on Amsoil.
Hey Scotty thanks for the video! I am having a problem with my wife's 05 kia spectra bottom 2 brake lights not working. The brakes use the same bulb as the tail lights but the filament for the brakes does not light up when you press the pedal. However the third brake light lights up. I tested all of the fuses and replaced some blown bulbs in the rear that I found. The turn signals and hazards are on a separate bulb. Less than a week ago someone rear ended her. Not much damaged was caused except for scraping up the rear bumper and a dent.
check for bent ground wiring connections or connectors by the ligjts where they plug to the bullbs. sometimes a small accident can cause a ground cable to move around and either touch another ground cable or part of the cars frame and cause it a bigger problem, or so
I have a 1998 Dodge ram 1500. I turn my headlights on high beam and usually within 30 minutes they start to turn off and on but when my lights are on low beam they wont shut off and on. im using standard white halogen bulbs. is there a way to fix this?
Hello Scotty, I am hoping you could make a video on repairing or replacing the under the hood fuse box, preferably for a 2010 Mercury mountaineer/ Ford Explorer. The receiving end of my fuse box for my ac compressor clutch relay is loose and causing my ac compressor to stop randomly when I hit a bump in the road. I’ve replaced the relay and recharged the whole system only to discover that when I wiggle the relay to just the right spot the compressor clutch will engage but once I take my hand off the relay the ac clutch disengages.
scotty can you answer strange question? according to wire digram pin out, 2pins are "(POWER)Ground", to or from transmission, should this have Voltage as power? or is it a ground
Scotty. I have a 1970 Chevelle. For years the dash and other lights dim at a stop, then brighten as you accelerate. Volt gauge was always read between 12-14 volts. The charging system always checked good. Alternator and battery output was fine. Voltage reg. was good. Cables good. I don't have any ground straps on the car. Someone years ago said that might be it. Or is that just normal for those old cars? Thanks.
Hi Scotty, got one you might like....had a fire downunder my bonnet, which meant replace the wiring loom from inside divers guard forward ( ford falcon ef.....I used a el loom ) anyway to cut a long story short.... now when I switch my A/C on the drivers indicator comes on......... and my remote lock switches the A/C on/off.... :)
Scotty Kilmer I have a question. My clock/radio channel display goes off and on when I'm driving. This happens also when I start the car. I won't see the clock display but then after a few minutes it comes on. Do you have any advice/suggestions. Thank you.
jonathan spriggs meters won't show leaks, you use a pressure gauge and if it drops pressure near that injector, it's leaking. OR check that spark plug, if wet, that one's leaking
I try , but with 71 million viewers so far, it's getting a lot harder to do. And, If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at th-cam.com/video/VognjkYaMjg/w-d-xo.html&feature=c4-overview . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video on the scotty kilmer channel on TH-cam, th-cam.com/users/scottykilmer , so don’t miss them.
Hi Scotty, i got one question. if i connect two fuses to power supply relay terminal 15 using a fuse piggy back connector will it damage the fuse box ? I am trying to connect DRLs to it.
Hi I have a question. What would make a 2013 chevy impala LT idle rough and the check stabiltrack light comes on even after the spark plugs have been changed? Thank you for your time.
dynamic test shows the engine ground is higher more than .4 of a volt, im assuming bad grounding means less voltage right? what if its higher votage than the battery reading
Scotty I'm a big fan and have seen a hours upon hours of your videos. Thank you to start off! I'm a handy guy do it yourself I stomped I have a 2004 dodge Durango 4.6l the no tow hitch but the 3rd (Middle) tail light on lift get went out. Crazy part I smacked it and it came back on! Few hours later went back out.. I have replaced the bulb tested connectors to wires from bulb and all work. Figured must be fuse. Inspected every fuse 25 amp (small fuses) in all 3 fuse box's 2 under hood 1 located at driver feet no fuses blown. Your expertise is astonishing. What would be your ideas on this head ache of mine sir?
Both my 2000 Ford F-150 and 91 Ranger under hood light switch with a mercury bulb does not work. No corrosion or visible defects inside the switch. The under hood light switch connector to both trucks has no 12V power nor continuity. Double checked all fuses and relays; all test good. Did a lot of research with people with same issue ,but no one has an answer. Does the mercury switch complete the circuit to activate power and ground? I want to eliminate the factory under light switch and use the same factory wiring harness to install LED light strips.
I've got a tricky one for you mate. I just replaced the crank and cam angle sensors in my 6G74 3.5 Mitsubishi Pajero. It ran fine for a week. Now. When I replace the clutch in it earlier last year, my silly mate "who's meant to be a qualified diesel fitter", I'm an apprentice, was in rush and wanted his hoist back and forced the box to the engine and zipped it up with the rattle gun. Resulting in a pinched main engine ground harness that runs over the back of the engine. I tried the best I could to isolate the wires semi blind because of where it was. Fast forward to the current day after replacing the crank and cam angle sensors, and it ran fine for a week. I parked it up. It sat for a couple hours and then we went to go back out for my son, and it would start but not run/idle properly. Like it was hunting for the correct cylinder. I had my other mate bring his snap on scan tool. And the codes said crank and cam angle sensor again. Which isn't right. Would the ground do this?
Bc since ole mate pinched my ground harness. My gps battery blew up. My tacho doesn't work. And now a few other bits and pieces. The harness runs from the battery down to the left side of the engine. But there's other ground and maybe power wires in there too. I'm at me wits end with it. Bc I need a bloody car to get a bloody job and I ain't getting the help I need. So much for mates in the know haha. I told him hasn't anyone ever taught you as a fitter. If it doesn't go, don't bloody force it! The look he gave me was priceless. Mind you I've been working as a mechanic/fitter now for 10+ plus years. I just don't have that government piece of paper yet. Due to unforeseen circumstances.
Is a static test fine when you're checking to see why your car won't start? My car keeps acting like the battery is dead and I'm still trying to find out what's causing it. I have a new battery, new alternator, and new starter. I have checked for corrosion at my battery points(In the trunk and under the hood) and found nothing, perfect connections there. I tested my wires going to the starter, good there. I tested my alternator, good there. It's driving me nuts!
I want to say thank you. For this video. And all others. You had been a great help the Las few years throughout my life as a home mechanic. God Bless You and Your Great Family
Ok so I was taking off the + terminal off my battery and accidentally welded my ratchet to the holder for about 5 seconds till i pried it off. I was going down to the shops and when I turned my lights on, my radio shut off and also when I put my blinkers on my rev taco would bounce up and down! I checked all the fuses I could find and they were good. Also I have another battery hooked up in parallel and my Volt meter in the dash is well over the halfway mark. Any ideas?
elnogga so many things can get fried doing that. Start by checking ALL the fuses and all the power wires for melted parts, and PRAY the main compute wasn't fried
That's good for testing the front of the car but what if your short is in the trunk? You have one of them hooked to the battery, I don't think it would reach the tail light from the battery to test that out?
Hmmm been watching.. you very good.. I have a problem with my cargo light will not light but dash indicator says on and switch some times works and some times not working is there a test and so many other switches dim lights, door open close, dome light and so on 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500hd 6.0
Thanks for the information Scotty. I’m dealing with the dim lights on my 02 avalanche; I replaced dimmer switch and harness and they will work when they want to
Hay Scotty, how do you check when one day its the. Left window motor not getting power a few days later its the radio, then the right window motor, then the starter. How do I check to find what is causing this without replacing everything
I've got one for ya Scotty! I don't have to jump my old 93 Nissan, but voltage at the battery and at the alternator steadily drop if I let the engine just idle. I've checked connections at the battery, resistance through connections and cables, voltage drops, and of course voltage, from the battery to the alternator. Everything except voltage checks out okay. I never get over 13v unless I rev the engine with no electrical loads. Otherwise I'll initially see about 11.75v, of course it'll go down until the engine misfires, dash lights dim, and ultimately dies. I should mention that voltage both at alternator and battery drop together. Battery is brand new, and more cranking amps than my old one btw. About to pull my hair out here, trying to fix other things and this comes out of left field. Any ideas on what else I can test!? Ah, also the negative post on the battery gets, and stays, hot. I've added grounds and checked for resistance between post and connection and it's a clean no-loss connection between everything. Thanks in advance, if ya see this. Keep up the good work Scotty!
Hey Scotty. I have a question I have a fuse under the hood problem with my Toyota corolla 2013. I cant figure out which fuse this is concerning Toyota manual doesnt match the fuse box at all . there is a fuse 10a its in the middle between a 10a ,15a then the one is question is under them as a 10a they are grouped together by them self
I saw a lot of your videos and they are much helpful than others and thank you sir for all these information. I want to ask you about a problem i faced it in my dodge caliber 2008 car, from time to time it gave me a " no bus " message. all i did is disconnect the battery and reconnect it again after 10 min and work fine, but after sometime it backs again. can you tell me how to fix?
At night when lights kick on there is a static behind radio. Also on cold starts there is a grinding noise as the rpm sets then goes away . Also while driving I hear squealing on passenger side when pressing down gas pedal . Maybe need new alternator bearing and ground wire needs fixing. What do you think Scotty. I've already replaced the belt and tensioner but still having these issues. Thanks
Hi Scotty I have a Mondeo Mk4 2007 and have had problems with the clutch pedal starting switch. The plunger on the switch gets pushed down so far that it gets stuck and you have to press the pedal so hard your foot is on the floor with extreme power. I've bought a new switch twice and it's happened both times. I wondered if there is a remedy within the switch that I can override the problem ?? Mike
Hope u can answer this question. I have a 2014 Nissan Maxima and for some reason my information display doesn't work. It looks like it has power because I can see the back light but doesn't display information. Someone told me the instrument cluster is bad but everything works like the odemoter and rpm and mileage. Thanks in advance.
Scotty - I hope you can answer this after a moonshine break. My 1998 dodge Caravan tail lights flash every 3-6 seconds when driving down the road, lights in the off position. When in park, engine on, no flashes. No noticeable anomalies when lights are on. Thanks for any advice.
my surburban wont start or get power but when i touch the negative terminal with something metal the power comes on and even cranks sometimes but when i take it off the power goes off any suggestions
I’m having a problem with a few electrical things on my automatic 2012 corolla, I know it sucks to ask free advice and I’d pay you if I could. When I use anything electrical like turn signals, power windows, changing gear to reverse or drive etc, sharp steering and/or windshield wipers my lights dim and sometimes my radio will cut off and then back on, even my power steering will go out sometimes. My passenger tail light and brake light I had to smack upon turning the car on each time until it turned on which it cut off completely recently and hasn’t worked since but all signals work. I don’t know which route to take as in what to spend to fix the issue. If you could point me in the right direction I’d be truly grateful..thank you for reading -Tracy
Hi Scotty, I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra. The tail lights do not work ( I've already changed the fuse) but the brake lights and blinkers work fine. Where do I begin to solve this problem? Thank you for your time, you are truly the BEST.
can a electrical short run through floors, seats, steering wheel etc? or brake pedal? I have a 2006 accord with heated seats. numerous electrical issues and could swear I've notice some type of sensation from sitting in this car
Scotty, I am issue with washer pump, the voltage , fuse ,pump are good , could it be grounding problem. I'm driving Chevy impala 06 , please help to fix it. thank you
Hello, I have a '99 Tahoe, and all of my exterior and interior lights flicker. It's so annoying. I was wondering if you have dealt with this issue before on said vehicle?
Hi Scotty I was hoping to pick your brain on this electrical problem. My car has a strange issue when I use my power window auto up button. It goes all the way up but the auto switch won’t shut off as it’s dropping in voltage and keeps pushing up. New battery, new fuses, circuit boards checked. Then changed window switch and also didn’t fix it. Works correctly when I hook up a car battery charger. So it seems the pressure switch in the auto window up does not reach the voltage to tel it it’s reached the top. So this indicates faulty wiring or a bad connection. Can I apply the same test as here or is there a better way?
Scotty the CTSY fuse on my 99 Sierra keeps popping, I notice that the blue wire to the E-brake was exposed. I cut and fixed the wire but the ctsy fuse still popping. All the dome light was working fine a month ago but one day the light went out and now I can't seem to find what is the cause of this. There were a trailer module underneath the pedal, I have remove the trailer module and clamp or cap off all the wires. I'm not sure if it is the wire underneath the fusebox gone bad or the wires to the inside of the roof dome light gone bad, I have not check them out yet.
I have a question my headlight in my kia Optima 2013 are dim they are not bright at all been like this since about when they replaced my engine in a recall. Not sure what do.
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Scotty Kilmer hello Scott I want to ask you a question what makes a 97 Dodge Caravan shut off when you put it in Drive
Scotty Kilmer I put a new fuel pump on my 98 Ford WinstAR now it would not start it's not getting fire
Scotty Kilmer I have a 99 Lincoln Town Car my interior lights won't go off
Scotty Kilmer had a question so I have a Acura TSX 05 so a couple days ago my battery was dead so I thought I had a bad battery and alternator so I changed both but I went to advanced so they could check my battery and alternator it should that alternator wasn’t getting any voltage so I installed a new alternator and it still shows no voltage could you help me out?
Scotty Kilmer I have a 95 Nissan Pathfinder my negative terminal melted then I found bare wires underneath the car but they look like they're coming from the positive terminal they're burned out where would they go to put new battery in battery will not start car
Nice vid man. It was great meeting you at the Shell deal last week. Your videos are 100% you, and I dig that!
Yes, it was great meeting you, if I get any VW questions, I'll be sure to tap your brain. Yesterday I went back to shell and filmed a couple vids on gas to oil conversion and The Woman Who Knows Engines. And I found out how you guys probably got a better price on the premium oil, they aren't making much profit on dealership and maufacturer sales, it's a PR move. Figuring if OEMs use it, the public will follow using that very same oil. It's all about what the public will buy, just like my vids being for the general public. It's a VAST audience.
Heck yea man! That is awesome you got to shoot that video you wanted. That gal I think her name was Shanna or something. She is freaking smart and knows her stuff.
If I can ever help ya out with anything VW, let me know. I'd be happy to help out.
Cheers
Charles
Thank you so much Scotty. love your channel you've taught me so much and just when Im about ready to throw the white flag you save the day every time. I'm watching from Midland, TX.
I drive a 2004 Chevy trailblazer 4×4 with 304,000 miles. It was a ex police vehicle so my radio wire harness was not wired the correct way. I had to rearrange all the pins back to their original places to get my radio to power on. Before I found out the wiring issue I had installed a new transmission by myself with no experience at all which didn't do me any good because I still had the same problems, just to find out it was bad wiring contact. Once I fixed the harness the truck ran with no issues.
I hope to meet Scotty one day. He has taught me so much over these years.
Ur famous now 🤪
Scotty, I must thank you for all the videos that you have religiously posted and taught me the basics of being a mechanically inclined. I would be nowhere with my project without these videos.
yes, check your anti theft system if it has one and it needs resetting. If not, check the battery terminals and wires to see if they are not getting power from being loose or cracked
Keep this man safe at all costs
Who’s here in 2024?
Yeah, man. Good video. Great for basic fundamentals. Had to dock points for that low quality moonshine, however.
Me
Me too.
2025 the future also fw scotty
Me. My wipers go on when i turn the lights on😂
weak connections, try unplugging them all , cleaning them, and snapping them back together. Pray it's not a computer circuit problem, they need replacing.
I have a ls400 98 it died and i change the battery no start alsoi changed the alternator about 3 months ago and it cuts on when it jumps but no lights on inside the car but car running but wont move and also will shut off after a while if i hook up battery charger soon as i cut it off the volts immediately goes back to zero and wont start back up unless i jump it but it just wont move even the gas pedal wont engage
could be bad wiring, check around the alternator wires first. More often a bad alternator. O2 sensors can go bad many ways, so you normally trust the computer on board to diagnose that and flag a code when bad
Thanks Scotty from 10 Years ago, still Helping me in 2023! God Bless you!
I keep coming back to your videos, Scotty. Great info. I just diagnosed a bad ground wire on the left high beam of my 2000 Nissan Maxima. I fixed it by running a jumper wire from the other light. I could not find the broken ground, but the guy I bought the car off of could not find it either. Lots of light now.
you can try the crank sensor, but if you've lost both spark and injector pulse, that's always a bad main computer on that model
Thank you so much for this. Seriously, both my father and my brother were/are master mechanics, and both have tried to explain things to me. Some things I understood but some I just couldn't grasp, because like many people they explained things as though they were talking to another mechanic. Your explanations are simple yet expansive, helpful without being condescending. Thank you again.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at th-cam.com/video/VognjkYaMjg/w-d-xo.html&feature=c4-overview . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video on the scotty kilmer channel on TH-cam, th-cam.com/users/scottykilmer , so don’t miss them.
check the grounds and the switch itself. If all running lights don't work, normally the fuse or switch
Scotty, This video was about staying grounded, no getting lit up... Awesome video, You deserve a couple good swigs...
I just went through a similar problem to the example shown here (parking lights come on when stepping on the brake). I followed the "start with the easy stuff" method, and was pleased to find out within minutes that the problem was an internal short IN THE BRAKE LIGHT BULB ITSELF. The brake filament had partially melted due to wear and tear and was touching the tail light filament, which every time I stepped on the brake would feed electricity through the tail light circuit (which illuminated parking lamps and dash/gauge lights, in addition to causing my aftermarket stereo to dim its display due to power on the illumination lead).
This was definitely an odd electrical problem I have only seen once before, and I was glad to find it was not a problem with the wiring itself.
Additionally, many Saab 900/9000s and Volvo 240/740s are known for tail lamp ground issues - putting on a turn signal would flash alternating between turn signal and backup lamp (one Saab I worked on, the turn signal would flash the brake and backup lamps when your foot was on the brake but act normally when not braking) or other weird reactions as the electrons flow through other circuits to find a better ground.
I would start by checking the ground wires and the circuit boards back there, on MERCs the boards often warp with age and need replacing
could be a bad ground or wiring problem to the alternator. As that belt broke, MANY wires or sensors could have been damaged, check in that area first.
Wonderful. One of the best instructional videos on vehicle earth fault-finding. Well done.
6 years later and this video is still helpful. Thanks Scotty!
Second that
I freaking LOVE your videos. So helpful and so direct and quick to the point. Thanks for all the info.
Still being used 10 years later
11 years 🫡
11 for me 🤣
I’m from 2075 and still watching
Well now we know why Scotty always seems to be so happy :-) Another good video, thank you.
check all the fuses in all the fuse boxes, pray you just blew one, you probably did. If not, start tracing the wiring from the dome back to everywhere to find shorts.
Wow, simple test. Alas, something the simple solution guy, who may be slightly leaning towards the Mr. Magoo direction doesn't know the two other steps you so graciously provided. Thanks again Scotty.
I didn't think I was going to like your videos, no lie haha. But I've been having problems with my car and I just go to your TH-cam channel and see if there's anything here to help me out. And there is so I appreciate you making these videos. These are very helpful
Ironically 95 percent of viewers are definitely not revving up our engines lol
Thanks Scotty; as always good tips, simplified and well edited. You are the man when it comes to make it simple to us, keep up the good work!
Can a bad ground cause an engine to run lumpy and rough? and even stall out when it's revved
Thats what im trying to figure out in my Nissan Hardbody D21 Motor😫
What if my car isn't running yet due to the ground issues? Technically it runs, but the starter won't stop cranking once started. And it labors cranking
My car won’t ignite and also the car was good too drive but then my signal lights were completely out.. any idea what’s the problem?
What if the car doesn’t start at all???
😂
If you hear clicking and no cranking then your battery doesn’t have enough voltage to kick out the starter, if you hear nothing it could most likely be the solenoid. Check the battery to see if it has at least 12.4 v if not then charge it, it’s the minimum starting voltage for all cars. If it reads that or higher and its not kicking it’s likely the solenoid or a bad ground/high resistance or an open.
hey scotty i have a integra and im having trouble my headlights wont turn on at all after a few wires touched each other and something went wronb i changed fuses but still wont work pls help thnk u
my 1999 honda civic lights flickering when the engine is running also the engine stutters at a certain speed when im accerlerating, but as soon as the flickering stop the stuttering from the engine stop too, what could be causing that?
all the lights on the car flicker
often weak alternator, auto zones load test them and batteries free
Scotty Kilmer Don't forget to tip the guys.. especially if they install a battery,headlamps,diagnostic etc... they are underpaid for what they do... The kid at sonic gets more for barely walking 2 feet to ur car...too many Mercedes D bags try and come take advantage of us to get free labor cause they really can't afford their car or service
Leon Springs Boys TV lol why u say that ?😭😭💢👏👏
My 97 civic dashboard instruments don't work. Went to the gas station to pump gas and when I tried to turn it back on it wouldn't. 10 minutes later I try again and it finally turns on. BUT, the rpm meter acts fishy and when I break (even if I slighty tap the break) the rpm goes all the way down to zero. Also, when I turn on a turn signal, the rpm goes up and down at the same time as the turn signal flickers. Lastly, if I turn on my stereo, it also brings rpm down to zero and my stereo also just turns off out of nowhere. Idk what's wrong..
Thanks Scotty!! You gave me my next task in troubleshooting my car - talk about weird? I was "just driving along" with headlights on, and suddenly the radio turned itself on! (started playing beautiful music) - - I already was aware of weird, fugitive electrical behaviors, so I tried turning the headlights off, and voila, radio went off. (but it did NOT go back on when i turned the lights back on) BTW I had already set its (the radio) fuse aside, so it shouldn't have been capable of turning on anyways - - also, the right parking lights (Mercedes) will NOT turn off when the car is off - - I appreciate your clue, to start checking for faulty grounding wires . . . . wish me luck . . . . now I am starting to see why this beautiful car was only $1000 Hahahahaha!!!
Hi Scotty, I dont give advice anymore I just search for one of your videos and post that---like weird light problems caused by grounds :) Keep up the good work you are helping a lot of folks out
Is a multi-meter and a volt meter the same? I have a multi-meter. I'm having and intermittent battery drain issue. It was 3.50amps. I pulled the interior light fused and it dropped drastically to .50 amps. I pulled every fuse and I can't get that .50 amps down. So I'm guessing the draw might be in the wiring. Can I use my multi-meter to check volts on a wire. My meter does not have clamps it has pointy sticks only. Thanks.
it depends on who u talk to, I call it a DVOM (digital volt-ohm meter) or a fluke, which is the brand I use. if the car is off I'd say a half an amp .50 of draw is normal. when u pulled your done light fuse was it on? depending on the number and type of some lights 3 or so amps is normal for operation for a car that has multiple incandescent bulbs as some lights. I would suggest having your battery tested as a start as a weak battery loses charge quickly once the charging system stops charging the battery.
Scott thank you for answering my question you are truly one of the good guys much appreciated
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On TH-cam . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
Hi scotty im having a bad connection on my break lights we did put new bulbs but the thing is they're always on even im not stepping into the breaks
if the bulbs were working then why replace them? you need to see where they are getting the power TO work. Brake switch near the pedal may need to be replaced OR simply adjusted
Not Always the case , it could easily be the bcm.
mark oliver ancheta brake light switch
Sometimes the bump stop will dry rot and fall out allowing the brake switch to stay extended. I see that on Kia's and Hyundais a lot.
ra777 What does bcm stand for?
thanks a lot Scott you really know a lot about cars. I checked for corrosion in my cars computer and sure enough. corroded green tips. I cleaned it up and my 3 codes disappeared. thanks again you saved me in time of need.
Hi Scotty, I have a 2000 Blazer with a check light on. It will not activate the scan meter. Tried at Autzone, Advance Auto & a friends meter. When I disconnected the battery to try to reset the light, it came right back on. Never ran into this before. The only fuse blown is the cigarette lighter which was out for ever. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance, Joe Z
Your awesome, thanks for giving up your time to help us, much appreciated,
"You really don't care what its doing when it's sitting there resting"
I heard: "You really don't care what it's doing when it's sitting there rusting"
you have a dead short. Do my video "fixing battery drain on your car"
thanks for your sharing your acknowledge and experience. I have a Toy/Yaris 2007 and it seems to be a ground problem...I found that the main relay for the EFI does NOT have ground, car does crank but it won't start...ANY SUGESTIONS ??? ,,,very much appreciated in advance.
Scotty I have a 2007 chevy Tahoe. the guy I bought it from was a younger guy and of course added LED lights in everything lighted area to be found along with a light bar and custom stereo. Im not sure if this may be the cause of the problems that I am having but we are mind blown. I have had the truck for 7 months. only in the last 2months has this problem started. The hazard lights are just randomly getting stuck on. When this happens you have no turn signals at all, no clicking noise, and no brake lights. At time it would just stop and now for the last week it has seemed to have frozen this way. The heated seats cut themselves off and on constantly. The dash lights seem to dim at times and then brighten more at times. when the blinker does work you can here the blinker clicking through the stereo sound at times. Again all this is random. No certain time that it takes place. We have checked fuses and cant locate any that have blown. Also about a week before the hazards froze the air/heat stopped blowing. It will still heat and blow cold air if your going down the road but to actually blow it wont work at all. If you crank the truck the hazards are on , you put in reverse you can turn on the hazard switch and it will work but if you put in drive the hazards will not work at all along with tail lights or brake lights.??????? begging for help from anyone that can point us in the right direction??? we wish to undo all the extra that was added on this truck and take it back to factory setup !!! HELPPPPPPPPP
best explanation ever .. keep on bro
What's about tail lights
Man your way to hype I love it 😂
Hey Scotty- I have a '13 Chevy Camaro with a standard transmission. 28Kmi. Radio cuts out if I coast and the RPMs get below 750. It also always happens when running on battery after 1 min. It turns back on right away but not properly CD error shows up and sometimes there will be no sound. It just started a month ago and it is the only problem with the car. I have to turn the car off and re-start it for the radio to work right. It also has never seen road salt and the battery and its connections are good. My guess is a bad solder joint on the radio's circuit board? It seems like an occasional power starved situation.
Scotty. I have viewed and executed your 2 videos on using a volt meter and a test light to check for a grounding issue. The test light was on the whole time I was pulling fuses with no turn off. I have checked 4 main areas for ground to frame issues. I pulled the cluster out and looked for anything wacky there, seemed intact. Where else can I look or test? Essentially my cluster is going bonkers on all the gauges. Vehicle runs fine, its a 2000 Chevy Silverado. I appreciate your videos. very stumped.
love your shows :D think you are super cool :D
nice moonshine
Change the title from''How to Fix Electrical Problems in Your Car (Ground Fault)'' to'' How to check if your car has a ground fault''.
Massive help, especially opened my eyes to the fact cars have grounding connections in the trunk! Any others I should know about? Water got in my car after a hard rain, basically a puddle in the passenger side of the car, now the seat belt fault light keeps flashing and beeping, even if no one is sitting in the seat, also turning on the headlights causes the beeping to stop or act up intermitently, any ideas? I did clean and use dilectric grease on the connector under the seat with no fix
Thanks for writing back about my 1990 Chevy Lumina. I agree that the idle screw should not be adjusted. Recently though I got my car out of a mechanics shop and when I got the car back the idle was up so high that the transmission was slamming every time I would stick it into gear. The original problem was still not taken care of because the car kept dying at stop lights and signs and it was blowing smoke. I took it back to them and one of the mechanics comes out and adjusts the idle set screw. The car would not slam into gear but it did not solve the problem of dying. I had to smog the car. The smog specialist could not even get the car started without problems and the black smoke was belching. He opened the hood looked to the back of the engine and cut part of the rubber hose going into the MAP sensor and all of the sudden the car ran and passed smog. But when I got it out on the street it still wanted to die at stop lights and stop signs and I had to feather the gas. I finally had an idea. I bet the first mechanic had turned the idle screw to low. So I adjusted the screw just a little at a time and then the engine kept running smoothly at the stop lights and stop signs without dying. So far the car is running like it should for a car that has 350,000 miles running on Amsoil.
thank you
Hey Scotty thanks for the video!
I am having a problem with my wife's 05 kia spectra bottom 2 brake lights not working. The brakes use the same bulb as the tail lights but the filament for the brakes does not light up when you press the pedal. However the third brake light lights up. I tested all of the fuses and replaced some blown bulbs in the rear that I found. The turn signals and hazards are on a separate bulb. Less than a week ago someone rear ended her. Not much damaged was caused except for scraping up the rear bumper and a dent.
check for bent ground wiring connections or connectors by the ligjts where they plug to the bullbs. sometimes a small accident can cause a ground cable to move around and either touch another ground cable or part of the cars frame and cause it a bigger problem, or so
I have a 1998 Dodge ram 1500. I turn my headlights on high beam and usually within 30 minutes they start to turn off and on but when my lights are on low beam they wont shut off and on. im using standard white halogen bulbs. is there a way to fix this?
Hello Scotty,
I am hoping you could make a video on repairing or replacing the under the hood fuse box, preferably for a 2010 Mercury mountaineer/ Ford Explorer.
The receiving end of my fuse box for my ac compressor clutch relay is loose and causing my ac compressor to stop randomly when I hit a bump in the road. I’ve replaced the relay and recharged the whole system only to discover that when I wiggle the relay to just the right spot the compressor clutch will engage but once I take my hand off the relay the ac clutch disengages.
scotty can you answer strange question?
according to wire digram pin out, 2pins are
"(POWER)Ground", to or from transmission, should this have Voltage as power? or is it a ground
Scotty. I have a 1970 Chevelle. For years the dash and other lights dim at a stop, then brighten as you accelerate. Volt gauge was always read between 12-14 volts. The charging system always checked good. Alternator and battery output was fine. Voltage reg. was good. Cables good. I don't have any ground straps on the car. Someone years ago said that might be it. Or is that just normal for those old cars? Thanks.
Hi Scotty, got one you might like....had a fire downunder my bonnet, which meant replace the wiring loom from inside divers guard forward ( ford falcon ef.....I used a el loom ) anyway to cut a long story short.... now when I switch my A/C on the drivers indicator comes on......... and my remote lock switches the A/C on/off.... :)
+Carol Tyers realize it may have shorted out the body control module, check wiring and grounds to that first
Scotty Kilmer I have a question. My clock/radio channel display goes off and on when I'm driving. This happens also when I start the car. I won't see the clock display but then after a few minutes it comes on. Do you have any advice/suggestions. Thank you.
Thanks for the help , I'm gonna go check those things out today , how can I tell if I have a leaky injector , could I use a multimeter ?
jonathan spriggs meters won't show leaks, you use a pressure gauge and if it drops pressure near that injector, it's leaking. OR check that spark plug, if wet, that one's leaking
I have to give props to you Scotty! I find it impressive that you're so responsive to your viewers.
I try , but with 71 million viewers so far, it's getting a lot harder to do. And, If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on TH-cam. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at th-cam.com/video/VognjkYaMjg/w-d-xo.html&feature=c4-overview . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video on the scotty kilmer channel on TH-cam, th-cam.com/users/scottykilmer , so don’t miss them.
Hi Scotty, i got one question. if i connect two fuses to power supply relay terminal 15 using a fuse piggy back connector will it damage the fuse box ? I am trying to connect DRLs to it.
Hi I have a question. What would make a 2013 chevy impala LT idle rough and the check stabiltrack light comes on even after the spark plugs have been changed? Thank you for your time.
dynamic test shows the engine ground is higher more than .4 of a volt, im assuming bad grounding means less voltage right? what if its higher votage than the battery reading
Scotty I'm a big fan and have seen a hours upon hours of your videos. Thank you to start off! I'm a handy guy do it yourself I stomped I have a 2004 dodge Durango 4.6l the no tow hitch but the 3rd (Middle) tail light on lift get went out. Crazy part I smacked it and it came back on! Few hours later went back out.. I have replaced the bulb tested connectors to wires from bulb and all work. Figured must be fuse. Inspected every fuse 25 amp (small fuses) in all 3 fuse box's 2 under hood 1 located at driver feet no fuses blown. Your expertise is astonishing. What would be your ideas on this head ache of mine sir?
Both my 2000 Ford F-150 and 91 Ranger under hood light switch with a mercury bulb does not work. No corrosion or visible defects inside the switch. The under hood light switch connector to both trucks has no 12V power nor continuity. Double checked all fuses and relays; all test good. Did a lot of research with people with same issue ,but no one has an answer. Does the mercury switch complete the circuit to activate power and ground? I want to eliminate the factory under light switch and use the same factory wiring harness to install LED light strips.
I've got a tricky one for you mate. I just replaced the crank and cam angle sensors in my 6G74 3.5 Mitsubishi Pajero. It ran fine for a week. Now. When I replace the clutch in it earlier last year, my silly mate "who's meant to be a qualified diesel fitter", I'm an apprentice, was in rush and wanted his hoist back and forced the box to the engine and zipped it up with the rattle gun. Resulting in a pinched main engine ground harness that runs over the back of the engine. I tried the best I could to isolate the wires semi blind because of where it was. Fast forward to the current day after replacing the crank and cam angle sensors, and it ran fine for a week. I parked it up. It sat for a couple hours and then we went to go back out for my son, and it would start but not run/idle properly. Like it was hunting for the correct cylinder. I had my other mate bring his snap on scan tool. And the codes said crank and cam angle sensor again. Which isn't right. Would the ground do this?
Bc since ole mate pinched my ground harness. My gps battery blew up. My tacho doesn't work. And now a few other bits and pieces. The harness runs from the battery down to the left side of the engine. But there's other ground and maybe power wires in there too. I'm at me wits end with it. Bc I need a bloody car to get a bloody job and I ain't getting the help I need. So much for mates in the know haha. I told him hasn't anyone ever taught you as a fitter. If it doesn't go, don't bloody force it! The look he gave me was priceless. Mind you I've been working as a mechanic/fitter now for 10+ plus years. I just don't have that government piece of paper yet. Due to unforeseen circumstances.
Is a static test fine when you're checking to see why your car won't start? My car keeps acting like the battery is dead and I'm still trying to find out what's causing it. I have a new battery, new alternator, and new starter. I have checked for corrosion at my battery points(In the trunk and under the hood) and found nothing, perfect connections there. I tested my wires going to the starter, good there. I tested my alternator, good there. It's driving me nuts!
I want to say thank you. For this video. And all others. You had been a great help the Las few years throughout my life as a home mechanic. God Bless You and Your Great Family
Ok so I was taking off the + terminal off my battery and accidentally welded my ratchet to the holder for about 5 seconds till i pried it off. I was going down to the shops and when I turned my lights on, my radio shut off and also when I put my blinkers on my rev taco would bounce up and down!
I checked all the fuses I could find and they were good.
Also I have another battery hooked up in parallel and my Volt meter in the dash is well over the halfway mark.
Any ideas?
elnogga so many things can get fried doing that. Start by checking ALL the fuses and all the power wires for melted parts, and PRAY the main compute wasn't fried
All the fuses are good. haven't got around to all the wires yet but my car does drive normally, besides the power issue. its a 94 Toyota Surf btw
That's good for testing the front of the car but what if your short is in the trunk? You have one of them hooked to the battery, I don't think it would reach the tail light from the battery to test that out?
Hmmm been watching.. you very good.. I have a problem with my cargo light will not light but dash indicator says on and switch some times works and some times not working is there a test and so many other switches dim lights, door open close, dome light and so on 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500hd 6.0
Thanks for the information Scotty. I’m dealing with the dim lights on my 02 avalanche; I replaced dimmer switch and harness and they will work when they want to
Thank you for this How do you get the wire from the front of the car to the way back to test the ground there? I am a beginner.
Hay Scotty, how do you check when one day its the. Left window motor not getting power a few days later its the radio, then the right window motor, then the starter. How do I check to find what is causing this without replacing everything
I love learner about mechanical and electrical things and you are fun to watch and informative. Keep making videos. Thanks
I've got one for ya Scotty! I don't have to jump my old 93 Nissan, but voltage at the battery and at the alternator steadily drop if I let the engine just idle. I've checked connections at the battery, resistance through connections and cables, voltage drops, and of course voltage, from the battery to the alternator. Everything except voltage checks out okay.
I never get over 13v unless I rev the engine with no electrical loads. Otherwise I'll initially see about 11.75v, of course it'll go down until the engine misfires, dash lights dim, and ultimately dies.
I should mention that voltage both at alternator and battery drop together. Battery is brand new, and more cranking amps than my old one btw.
About to pull my hair out here, trying to fix other things and this comes out of left field. Any ideas on what else I can test!?
Ah, also the negative post on the battery gets, and stays, hot. I've added grounds and checked for resistance between post and connection and it's a clean no-loss connection between everything. Thanks in advance, if ya see this. Keep up the good work Scotty!
Hey Scotty.
I have a question I have a fuse under the hood problem with my Toyota corolla 2013. I cant figure out which fuse this is concerning Toyota manual doesnt match the fuse box at all . there is a fuse 10a its in the middle between a 10a ,15a then the one is question is under them as a 10a they are grouped together by them self
Probably the most energetic and positive mechanic I’ve seen
I saw a lot of your videos and they are much helpful than others and thank you sir for all these information. I want to ask you about a problem i faced it in my dodge caliber 2008 car, from time to time it gave me a " no bus " message. all i did is disconnect the battery and reconnect it again after 10 min and work fine, but after sometime it backs again. can you tell me how to fix?
At night when lights kick on there is a static behind radio. Also on cold starts there is a grinding noise as the rpm sets then goes away . Also while driving I hear squealing on passenger side when pressing down gas pedal . Maybe need new alternator bearing and ground wire needs fixing.
What do you think Scotty.
I've already replaced the belt and tensioner but still having these issues.
Thanks
It's a 2014 Impala Lt limited
Hi Scotty I have a Mondeo Mk4 2007 and have had problems with the clutch pedal starting switch. The plunger on the switch gets pushed down so far that it gets stuck and you have to press the pedal so hard your foot is on the floor with extreme power. I've bought a new switch twice and it's happened both times. I wondered if there is a remedy within the switch that I can override the problem ??
Mike
Hope u can answer this question. I have a 2014 Nissan Maxima and for some reason my information display doesn't work. It looks like it has power because I can see the back light but doesn't display information. Someone told me the instrument cluster is bad but everything works like the odemoter and rpm and mileage. Thanks in advance.
those are cheaply made and often short out internally. No one really fixes em, just replaces them,, and they cost a ton. Me, I'd live without it
Scotty - I hope you can answer this after a moonshine break. My 1998 dodge Caravan tail lights flash every 3-6 seconds when driving down the road, lights in the off position. When in park, engine on, no flashes. No noticeable anomalies when lights are on. Thanks for any advice.
either switch is wearing out, or the body control module is bad
my surburban wont start or get power but when i touch the negative terminal with something metal the power comes on and even cranks sometimes but when i take it off the power goes off any suggestions
Please let me know what's the best spark plugs & ignition coil for dodge grand caravan sxt 2008 to install.
When cleaning grounds attached to the body, is it normal to get a small spark if you touch the cable to the bolt? Car not running.
I’m having a problem with a few electrical things on my automatic 2012 corolla, I know it sucks to ask free advice and I’d pay you if I could. When I use anything electrical like turn signals, power windows, changing gear to reverse or drive etc, sharp steering and/or windshield wipers my lights dim and sometimes my radio will cut off and then back on, even my power steering will go out sometimes. My passenger tail light and brake light I had to smack upon turning the car on each time until it turned on which it cut off completely recently and hasn’t worked since but all signals work. I don’t know which route to take as in what to spend to fix the issue. If you could point me in the right direction I’d be truly grateful..thank you for reading
-Tracy
Hi Scotty, I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra. The tail lights do not work ( I've already changed the fuse) but the brake lights and blinkers work fine.
Where do I begin to solve this problem? Thank you for your time, you are truly the BEST.
Dawn Di Eigidio that old, check the circuit board on the lenses back there, they often corrode and short out, also check the sockets for corrosion
Scotty Kilmer
Thank you so much Scotty. My son said you are the best, and I totally agree with him.
can a electrical short run through floors, seats, steering wheel etc? or brake pedal? I have a 2006 accord with heated seats. numerous electrical issues and could swear I've notice some type of sensation from sitting in this car
Scott is the best.. I like his enthusiasm and quite exciting way of demonstration not like other few quite boring.. Keep it up Scotty
Scotty, I am issue with washer pump, the voltage , fuse ,pump are good , could it be grounding problem. I'm driving Chevy impala 06 , please help to fix it. thank you
Hello, I have a '99 Tahoe, and all of my exterior and interior lights flicker. It's so annoying. I was wondering if you have dealt with this issue before on said vehicle?
Hi Scotty I was hoping to pick your brain on this electrical problem. My car has a strange issue when I use my power window auto up button. It goes all the way up but the auto switch won’t shut off as it’s dropping in voltage and keeps pushing up. New battery, new fuses, circuit boards checked. Then changed window switch and also didn’t fix it. Works correctly when I hook up a car battery charger. So it seems the pressure switch in the auto window up does not reach the voltage to tel it it’s reached the top. So this indicates faulty wiring or a bad connection. Can I apply the same test as here or is there a better way?
Scotty the CTSY fuse on my 99 Sierra keeps popping, I notice that the blue wire to the E-brake was exposed. I cut and fixed the wire but the ctsy fuse still popping. All the dome light was working fine a month ago but one day the light went out and now I can't seem to find what is the cause of this. There were a trailer module underneath the pedal, I have remove the trailer module and clamp or cap off all the wires. I'm not sure if it is the wire underneath the fusebox gone bad or the wires to the inside of the roof dome light gone bad, I have not check them out yet.
I have a question my headlight in my kia Optima 2013 are dim they are not bright at all been like this since about when they replaced my engine in a recall. Not sure what do.