3DSets Buggy Build Guide - Full 3d printed RC rwd VW buggy build with electronics
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ต.ค. 2021
- RCPrinter.com Build Factory episode for the 3DSets VW Buggy RWD RC Car. Includes assembly of all 3d printed parts, electronics, steering linkage, belts and a quick run demonstration. This build uses the standard body panels and the brushless outrunner motor option however you can go for more of a street style build or even a convertible option and a brushed 540 will work as well however precautions need to be taken for the extra heat it will produce.
For build kits including fastener hardware, bearings, servos, belts and more for the Buggy and many other 3d printable RC models please visit our website at www.rcprinter.com
If you're looking for the build files you can find them at www.3dsets.com
Written build guide is here: docs.google.com/presentation/...
keywords: 3d sets, 3dsets, buggy, vw, volkswagen, vw bug, rwd buggy, dune buggy, dunebuggy, rc car, 3d printing, 3d design, - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Looks good!
Ne VOGLIO UNA !!!... bellissimo !!!.... ciao dall'Italia
So glad I stumbled upon your video. I purchased a Sandy yesterday and was looking for build videos. Was planning on it being next winters project but may have to start early since you have build kits for sale.
I'll be doing a sandy-specific build video soon too :) Here's a link to the Sandy Kits: rcprinter.com/products/3dsets-buggy-build-kits?variant=41951482839201
Con questo video ti sei meritato la mia iscrizione al tuo canale...sei un MITO... ciao dall'Italia
You are going to kill my 2 creality printers😂.ill buy most of the models that are usable in a diorama 1/14 scale and the snowmobiles. Thanks for doing all this. Ill have to do my rest 41 years untill 100
ummmm .... you're welcome! 😂 I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!
super tuto bravo !
Thanks Francis!
Very nice model
🔵🔵🔵👍👍👍😀😀😀🔵🔵🔵
Thanks for the video. I just started printing one of these myself and am currently waiting for one of your kits to arrive to put it together. One question though, I noticed your roof gap between the front and rear is nearly invisible. Is your printer and filament that good, or did you do any sanding/fitting to get them to fit together that tightly? Mine looks about the same as the door gaps and I'd like to close it up a bit, so I was going to do some block sanding.
No sanding on this one. I used a prusa i3 mk3s for the body which gets pretty nice quality.
BTW, I just finished my second of 3 3Dsets vehicles that I bought your kits for. I have to say, your kits make things much easier in my opinion. It's just all there, and separated and labeled. I'm not digging around 20 bins with various quantities and hoping I have enough, or buying 10x more than I need to get the few I do need. It's really more cost effective to get a kit from what I'm seeing. I'll be ordering a few more soon.
Thanks for the video, I was looking for a new project and this suits me perfect, I have a question on the printing of the parts. Did you print the files with the supports or did you add your own supports? I ask as I normally add my own supports to my prints, I haven’t used that type of support before that is included with the support file.
You shouldn't need to add your own supports, they've added all the supports you need. If you find one or two things topple over accidentally you can always print again with a brim but its not required. I think I also put brims on some of my body pieces since the connection to the build plate is a little thin and I didn't want to risk them warping and dislodging but it's not required.
@@rcprinter great thanks
Yo necesite soportes en el piso...
What motor do you use?
This is primarily geared toward those who have printers. I'm surprised you don't offer a kit of printed parts as well. Some of us don't have printers or maybe those who do may run into problems printing some parts.
Its tough because things break and there are lots of prints that don't work for one reason or another like they warp a bit or something and you don't really noticed until you put it together, or you break it as you put it together or during your first run out. You really need a printer to do quick reprints yourself. Otherwise you should just buy a rc from your local hobby shop and you'd be better off. 3D printing these things isn't much cheaper than an off-the-shelf RC by the time you add all the electronics and hardware, especially when you add in hundreds of hours of 3d printer time and filament.
Hey thanks for this video, I'm printing my buggy right now but i was wondering, does the design allow for adjustable gearing or is it one pinion only?
no adjustable gearing
Hi there, just wondering at the last section of the video where it looks like you connect the battery to the esc. Did you use an adapter for the esc to connect it to the battery? I plan to use the spektrum smart batteries for the model but have no clue if an adapter is required. Thanks!
Hey, ya you have to match your battery and esc plugs. In 90% of cases I end up switching both. Most people go with deans (T plug) or XT60. If you're using a smart battery I THINK you'll just put a regular ec3 plug on your esc and you'll lose the smart features unless you use a spektrum esc that comes with a smart plug. I believe the spektrum smart plugs (IC3) work with EC3 you just lose the smart features.
Questa body è 10 volte meglio di Tamiya !!!...me ne produci una per me ??? Complimenti per il lavoro di precisione che avete svolto !!!.. ciao dall'Italia
Hey I don't do custom builds for people but you can build one yourself with the design files from www.3dsets.com and a kit from www.rcprinter.com and your own 3D Printer!
@@rcprinter mi dispiace tanto...ma cmq grazie di avermi inviato i Link ...li scarico e me li guardo bene ... ciao mitico !!!
Me gusta la herramienta que usas al principio para emprolijar los bordes (como un cuchillo curvo). Me podrías decir como se llama, para buscarla en mi país?
Its called a deburring tool
Awesome idea of selling the part kits! I would definitely buy. Would you mind telling me the dimensions of the largest piece for the buggy? I have a 16cm x 16cm x 18cm printer and don't know if I could squeeze the parts my build plate.
There are build plates for the prusa mini which has a 180x180x180 build volume but I don't think it would fit 16cm unfortunately. The main body pieces are around 170 mm wide.
@@rcprinter ahh too bad! Thanks for the reply. One day I'll get a bigger printer!
DESIDERO Assolutamente questa FANTASTICA Body !!!...posso avere il Kit ???..., ciao dall'Italia
What shocks/springs/weight oil did you use for the rear suspension? I have a completed buggy but have to deal with the rear suspension digging in on acceleration and combined with the grippy tires the shocks are not able to push the rear of the car back up.
I've tried a bunch of different cheap shocks and don't really have anything to recommend that is amazing unfortunately. Its hard to get the rear end of this car to perform well. Right now I have these on the car and they're a bit too soft like you're describing: rcprinter.com/products/injora-aluminum-dual-spring-shocks
@@rcprinter I stuck a really short piece of thin rubber fuel line around the bottom of the shock shaft to act as a bump stop and that has at least stopped it from bottoming out on acceleration and having the tires catch the fender flares. It's not perfect but it will let me take the car out a few times.
Hola, desde España. Un saludo. Muy buen ejemplar. Lo tengo ya, solo no se en que parametros imprimir. Me los puede dar porfavor
If you read the FAQ they give you the lowdown on print parameters. Mostly everything can be printed at 0.15 layer height with standard 20% infill and 0.4mm nozzle. The only exceptions would be gears shafts, axles and arms at 100% infill. You can find their detailed setup info by opening the .3mf files in PrusaSlicer but its not required. No supports are required but I find from time to time I add a brim to some parts if they come unstuck the first time.
Could this be printed with petg?
👏👍
Hi, any idea when the 3DSets Buggy Build Kits (complete kit) will be in stock?
Hi Orlando, we're just waiting for the motors but have had some trouble with shipping from China lately. Hopefully in a week but you never know with shipping right now.
@@rcprinter thanks for the reply. That gives me some time to finish printing the parts.
Hello, I would like to know what tires you used? thank you :)
Ummm, I'm pretty sure those were Jconcepts 2wd buggy tires of some sort. I think I had to modify the wheel widths a little to make them fit nicely.
The ender 3 can print these, and look that good?
These panels were printed on a Prusa MK3 but I use my Ender 3s for lots of builds and they work pretty good most of the time.
Hi, Can you please help me out? I printed the same buggy and I have some problems regarding the suspension settings. On mine, I'm using 85mm shocks front and back. When I lay the Car on the floor the rear end stays with that weird V angle and the car is level but as soon the car moves it settles down but the front now stays higher up so the Car no longer sits level on its wheels ( the back axle is lower from the ground than the front Axle) of course I tried to remove some preload but then the front suspension becomes too soft and it still stays high at the front, even if I adjust the front shock Tower.
apart from that Since I'm using 2.2 size Wheels, at full suspension Travel the front wheels hit the fenders in all suspension settings from the shock Tower, So I installed some silicone Tubing on the Shiney Portion of the shocks to act as Bump stops and reduce a bit the suspension Travel. Also, the suspension setup that I used as per instructions in the Intermediate level so the Axles as level.
Did you had any issues with Yours? I tried also a pair of 1.9inch wheels but same problem.
Howdy! I did have some issues right out of the gate with the suspension set-up but adjusting the various height settings on the model seems to have got me to where I'm relatively happy. I still have a little V-ing in the back that I'm not sure I'll ever get rid of... I think that's possibly part of the model design since the rear arms are a lot shorter than the front ones and therefore they rotate upwards and downwards in a smaller diameter circle and are more likely to look V'd depending on how the car is sitting. I'm also using 2.2 size wheels. One thing I did off camera was that I added a custom spacer between the front wheel halves to widen the front wheels out a bit since the tires I'm using weren't meant to be quite that skinny and were overly tall and odd looking and that has given me a bit more clearance as well.
I have my front shock tower set to the mid setting and then the whole front axle section adjustment is moved up as high as it will go and that seems to work pretty well. I have my shocks set without any preload at all front and rear and I'm using the 85mm ones from the parts list from aliexpress. For the rear I have my shock tower set as high as it will go and the motor/axle adjustment is set on middle although I'd be interested in trying the lowest setting next. For me this seems to give me just enough clearance for tires not to touch the wheels before the front/rear bars hit the ground.
I hope that helps. There's a really good 3dsets facebook group you can try asking in if you need answers I can't give ya.
@@rcprinter so if I understand you correctly ,you installed the front axle in the road setup as per page 80 of the build up guide? And the rear is still in the universal setup right?
@@ripmax333 Yup that's a more succinct way of stating it. I still think I need to tweak the front a little by either reducing the max shock length a few mm in the front by using a spacer or maybe changing to less stiff springs (mine are super stiff atm) but its pretty close. If you want to keep your springs stiff but reduce your max shock length in the front you can add spacers on the inside of the cylinder like this: th-cam.com/video/uytvBXu4xKE/w-d-xo.html
@@rcprinter I have the opposite problem for the springs, they are too soft so I increased quite a lot of preload especially at the back. I installed the front axle in the road setup and at the back in the universal position and now the buggy sits level or very very close.
I indeed put some silicone tubing as spacers/bump stops on the outside, I've just removed the lower turn buckle and slide the tubing onto the shaft. but now the car looks more like a Rally car than a dune buggy. I really don't know how 3dsets adjusted there's, in there website photo's there cars sit higher but you can clearly see that they are set on the universal setup.
now I have to print the front wheel spaces to sort out the Not so narrow front tires.
BTW be careful with the servo arm that you printed, as I read somewhere else on the internet From more than one person that they are prone to strip and get loose from the servo splined shaft. I printed this one instead www.thingiverse.com/thing:4834035
I used the one with the M3 nuts and printed it out with PETG.
IMO there should be a servo saver But I doubt that it will fit.
@@ripmax333 Thanks for the tips! We'll see what breaks after we get the chance to run it outside a bit more...
Where can I get the files to print the Baja bug?
3dsets.com
what printer do you use and how long did the prints take?
prusa mk3s mostly. long time to print. like a full week or two of constant print time.
wow. have you ever had one fail when it was almost done@@rcprinter
@@Blazeplayz0925 hey so it takes like a week or two of constant print time but its spread across like 30 different build plates so if one fails you don't need to start all over again just 1/30th of the project. With the Prusa MK3s and the 3Dsets build plates they are pretty foolproof and I rarely have major failures.
请询问您使用的是哪种无刷电机
rcprinter.com/products/c3530-brushless-outrunner-rc-motor-1400kv-surpass-hobby?variant=41479774240929
@@rcprinter Thank you very much for your reply. Your video is very well made
This not a building video its a music video. was hoping to know step by step in the video since I can't see, music don't talk you know..
Yeah man I hear you. That's what I was planning originally too. However, there are so many steps and so much raw footage to wade through that this video is already over 30 minutes long as is. I could still do a build series over a few different videos on it and walk methodically through each step but it would take a tonne more time and the written guide is already pretty good. I guess I'll see what the feedback is and what people want and go from there.