Is it possible to induce a 'push down' on the encoder remotely? ie. let's say that pushing-in the button mutes the stereo. Can I induce muting remotely? How would I go about doing this?
Pushing down is just a push button that connects two of the pins together. You can solder to the contacts and extend that button anywhere you want or you can add a receiver with a relay or an optocoupler to simulate the push.
@@TasteTheCode Some people have suggested that the EC11B0924802 is a valid replacement for my BMW volume encoder. It seems that this encoder has 5 pins (A,B,C & D,E). Could you direct me as to which 2 pins are responsible for the push-down switching responsible for muting the volume? (is it D&E?)
I'm not familiar with that one but you can get a multimeter and test it out for continuity. When pressed, two of the pins will be connected together, probably directly to ground.
@@TasteTheCode I managed to solder my 2 wires on the switch pins of my encoder. As you already know, when the encoder is pushed-in, it mutes the radio. My other device has a single trigger wire which goes to ground when triggered. When it goes to ground, the 2 encoder pins must be joined momentarily at least (usually we push down momentarily to mute - don't know if pushing down continuously is ok). Do I need some kind of a relay or other device to achieve this? Thanks for helping me out !!!!
Continuous push might trigger some other action on the radio so not really recommended. How do you power the "other" trigger? If they are powered from the same power source, then you can just connect the single wire to the high side of the switch contacts. Remember, one of them will be connected to ground and the other will be at VCC through a resistor. Pulling that to ground will simulate the button push. It is best though if you can completely isolate this with a relay that you only trigger for a few hundred milliseconds.
Thanks for the tip. I had trouble melting the lead free solder in the first place. Once melted and mixed with lead based solder it is much easier to remove.
@TasteTheCode There is also a low melting point solder that, whenever melted into existing solder, will lower the overall melting point for easier removal without overheating other components.
My problem on the radio was that even tho when I pushed the button the function that regulates the tremors and bass worked, the tension function didn't go up. I replaced the button like you in the video and again the volume didn't go up-down, but again pushing it in was working to adjust the bass. What do you think is to blame? Can the line on the board be broken or made a mistake in gluing? Thank you very much in advance!
It is difficult to say... I'm guessing that the radio uses some chip that regulates the volume separately. The encoder has only one channel to say it so and the rest is all regulated by the software on the radio itself. If it works for one function, then the encoder is OK, and there is no need to replace it. The problem is somewhere else...
Would a bit of flux and hot air gun not be easier? Just wondering. 👍🏻
Yes, it might have been but there were buttons really close by to the encoder and I was worried that it might burn them with the hot air.
Is it possible to induce a 'push down' on the encoder remotely? ie. let's say that pushing-in the button mutes the stereo. Can I induce muting remotely? How would I go about doing this?
Pushing down is just a push button that connects two of the pins together. You can solder to the contacts and extend that button anywhere you want or you can add a receiver with a relay or an optocoupler to simulate the push.
@@TasteTheCode Some people have suggested that the EC11B0924802 is a valid replacement for my BMW volume encoder. It seems that this encoder has 5 pins (A,B,C & D,E). Could you direct me as to which 2 pins are responsible for the push-down switching responsible for muting the volume? (is it D&E?)
I'm not familiar with that one but you can get a multimeter and test it out for continuity. When pressed, two of the pins will be connected together, probably directly to ground.
@@TasteTheCode I managed to solder my 2 wires on the switch pins of my encoder.
As you already know, when the encoder is pushed-in, it mutes the radio.
My other device has a single trigger wire which goes to ground when triggered. When it goes to ground, the 2 encoder pins must be joined momentarily at least (usually we push down momentarily to mute - don't know if pushing down continuously is ok).
Do I need some kind of a relay or other device to achieve this? Thanks for helping me out !!!!
Continuous push might trigger some other action on the radio so not really recommended. How do you power the "other" trigger? If they are powered from the same power source, then you can just connect the single wire to the high side of the switch contacts. Remember, one of them will be connected to ground and the other will be at VCC through a resistor. Pulling that to ground will simulate the button push. It is best though if you can completely isolate this with a relay that you only trigger for a few hundred milliseconds.
Hold your solder sucker over lead on back of board while holder soldering iron on same lead on front of board. When melted, trigger sucker.
Thanks for the tip. I had trouble melting the lead free solder in the first place. Once melted and mixed with lead based solder it is much easier to remove.
@TasteTheCode There is also a low melting point solder that, whenever melted into existing solder, will lower the overall melting point for easier removal without overheating other components.
My problem on the radio was that even tho when I pushed the button the function that regulates the tremors and bass worked, the tension function didn't go up. I replaced the button like you in the video and again the volume didn't go up-down, but again pushing it in was working to adjust the bass. What do you think is to blame? Can the line on the board be broken or made a mistake in gluing? Thank you very much in advance!
It is difficult to say... I'm guessing that the radio uses some chip that regulates the volume separately. The encoder has only one channel to say it so and the rest is all regulated by the software on the radio itself. If it works for one function, then the encoder is OK, and there is no need to replace it. The problem is somewhere else...
whais the reference for the encoder you used please ? does t only roate 360 degrees ?
The encoder is named as KY-040 and it is the type that has continuous rotation so more than 360 degrees.
What is that blue tool you use
Desoldering pump. It creates vacuum that removes the molten solder.
it is to suck up themolten tin... I think
Raboteeee!!! :)
You destroying switch insode overheat
The encoder was bad anyway so it didn't matter. It was important to keep the new one intact and that was easy with leaded solder.