Your magic link pliers can (often) be used to click the new joining link into position! They (should) have a contour on the outside of the jaws to locate on the chain rollers each side of the link, with the jaws around the link, pull the handles apart to get the link clicked into place.
I read on the park tool site, that if the wear is .75 then you should change the chain for 10 speed and if it's .5 and you have 11 speed then you should change. My understanding is that if it's 1% then you probably need to replace the cassette too.
Good video Lama. A couple of suggestions, bang a nail into somewhere and hang the old chain from it. You can then measure length by hanging old + new together without getting greasy crap all over the nice concrete. Shimano say there's a correct chain direction, writing out and IIRC readable if looking at the chain stay. Something some may forget is after several chains the cassette will need replacing. It will shift ok with the old chain but skip with a new chain.
One piece of kit you might want to check out is a BBInfinite bottom bracket. I put one on my Cervelo S3 and it was a huge improvement over the two-cup press fit designs. You should see how well the bottom bracket spins with one installed. Pricey, but worth it in my opinion. By the way - nice wedding band. I have the exact one. She thought the titanium ring was an acceptable substitute for the titanium bike frame I was lusting after.
Great video mate. I usually change once a year or at 2-3000 kms. Always new quicklink with new chains for me, they're only 3-8 dollars where I live. I have 7,8 and 10 speed bikes. Has worked for me in heavy rains even.
I have a nail tapped into the door frame of the garage , makes life a little easier for changing the chain. Just hang the old chain on the nail and the new one on top of it, correct length every time. If you ever run monster gears and need a longer chain , mark the length on the door frame with a pen, so even if it's a year later you can just measure off it.
You only need to trim one end!!! Line up using narrow links. Rather than do it on the floor - always dusty and gritty - hang old chain and new chain from nail. This makes lining up and trimming way easier and cleaner. Waxing is brilliant! Spent a happy couple of rainy hours cleaning and waxing using 10p candles and couldn't quite believe how smooth and free my chain ran. Try it out - cheap, fun and effective!
All my video easter eggs have been pinged before it even hit 1000 views! :) Dr SLane is trying to talk me into the waxing...... I could be persuaded..... with cake. (SLane, if you're reading, ccaaakkeeee!)
most people say you can already change an 11 speed chain at around 0.5 wear. because 20 bucks won't hurt you and keeps the cogs and chainrings longer in good condition..
btw: you should not reuse a quicklink! all manufactures are against it and not advising it. I think if a chain snapps it could be a painful situation and could end badly.. they talked about this once on a trainer road podcast
Would you recommend changing both the chain and rear cassette at the same time? Becusse they both ware at a similar rate and when you have a new chain with an old cassette it's a bit clunky and rough. This is easier done then said giving most people have multiple rear wheels all with different cassette which would have worn all at different rates
Shano! love the vids as usual, when can we expect a review on the power meter and the chainrings, really interested in how the chainrings hold up vs shimano ones, Cheers!
Thanks Shane, on a different topic, can a trainer quick release skewer be used for outdoor rides, eliminating the need to change skewers? Do you see any issues?
In my experience, 3000 kms is a good estimate. There's rare cases where chains last 10000 kms but that's in perfect conditions. I usually change them at around 2-3000 kms or once a year, whichever comes first. They're not expensive considering what replacing a cassettte and chainrings would cost.
Are you going to strip off the factory grease or are you going to use it? I find the factory lube lasts a long time but it gets really gummy on a first cleaning. I think it's easier to manage a clean chain if you strip it off and start using a lube of choice. Just curious what you will do with this chain.
I use the factory grease for a few weeks then clean/re-oil. It works well enough for me. A lot of people strip it and put their preferred oil on right away.
Does anyone have much experience running home-brew motoroil based chain lube? I've been trying it over the pasted 200 miles (reapplying after every 30-40 miles) and I'm having my doubts.
good to know. gonna stick with old faithful kmc links then as i can get a card of 6 pairs for less then the price of two pairs of shimano's ones. I hope eventually shimano starts including them with there chains. I do like my shimano chains though they just seem to run slightly nicer then other brands and can be found for decent deals
which chain links do you use, i was just about to order me some (got an ultegra groupset), the range is a little overwhelming, i know i need a link for 11speed but e.g. sram says that their links will only work with sram chains, help plz!
Yeah, quick links have never been a problem in my expiriece. Ive used a lot of combinations. SRAM Quicklink on a Shimano chain, all good. KMC quicklink on Shimano and SRAM chains, all good. Clarks quicklink on Shimano chain, all good.
how about chain sides? this is what Shimano manual says si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-CN0001-05-ENG.pdf Front (outer side) The side with the mark shown in the illustration is the front (outer side). I don't see any marks on the chain that is being installed on this video. @Shane Miller, please tell me you took sides into account and i can't see it on this video due to video quality.
Surprised you didn't mention why that tool was worth it, considering you need to replace your whole drivetrain chain rings if the wear gets too bad which is enough reason to convince anyone.
bike mechanics always tell me that when I replace my worn chain I must also buy a new cassette to match the new chain, is that a rip off or legit advice??
If you replace your chain early enough, you should be good for a few chains per cassette. The problem is if you wait too long, the chain and cassette start to wear together such that if you were to put on a new chain, it would skip on the old cassette. If you follow Shane's advice in this video you should get many miles and several chains as Shane states.
1% is too late, the cassette is damaged and will wear out new chain quickly. the best thing you can do is ride it further till chain skips teeth on cassette or chain snaps, then replace both. and you should replace cassette every other time you change the chain.
What I was wondering are you meant to force the tool in or let it drop in? Also I find the measurement changes depending on if you put it in the small or large gap.
shane you've routed the chain incorrectly through the rear derailleur! what are your thoughts on the Sky racism incident? Did sky make the right decision keeping Moscon in the race?
+Eli Douek Sorted when I scampered inside and put it in the trainer. All good. Not my place to comment on something I'm not up to speed with re Sky. This video was about the chain tool.
Couple of things… even though the ground was swept, I wouldn't let the chain touch the ground. Hang it from a broke metal coat hanger or something. Comparing lengths to the old chain is fine, but if you're also changing chain ring sizes, cassette sizes or derailleur hanger lengths, use this chain length calculator: www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html you'll need to know your bike's chain stay length but that's the only quirk. Remove the shit chain grease that's on the chain after installing. Depending on your conditions, if *damp* use 'wet' lube, if *dry* use 'dry' lube. Done son!
Please promote local bike shops instead of online shopping. As online shopping increases and local bike shops go out of business, years of knowledge also disappears. You may pay a couple dollars more at a shop, but with that comes help when you have a mechanical issue you can't solve yourself.
Local bike shops have to adapt to the changing market. They're not facing anything new here at all. If something is cheaper online, buy a LOT, then people will go that route. The shops that have adopted the Internet age have done well, here in Australia anyway. Sure there's international competition, and it's not just a few $, we're talking 1/2 price for basic consumables, but a good shop (well, good people) will step up and provide exceptional customer service. Buy a chain or something online and need it fitted? "Sure, that's $ per hour, happy to do it for you" would be the expected response. The actual response is far less welcoming. More on this with my next video when a local store here in Melbourne sold a broken Neo, refused to refund the money, and was unable to provide the customer a replacement in a suitable timeframe. I ended up fixing it for him, and FOR the bike shop. So..... yes... you've triggered me on this topic.
LocutFilms, people are going to do, what they wanna do, when they wanna do it. If someone wants to learn how their own machine works, no one should stop them! But I'm a 100% do it yourself'er or else it's done wrong bloke.
Some people are , that's cool. But we get a steady stream of people in our shop that have bought the wrong parts online and expect us to sort them out. Sometimes even swap them over to the correct ones. We pride ourselves on good service and still do well. The guys that can do the work themselves arn't the issue, it's the ones that can't. If wiggle buy a pallet of 1000 chains and have a world wide market, how can we compete on price? We can't also have a pallet of every one of our 10000 items in store. Customer service is one thing, but we all know the almighty dollar rules in the long run. My only point is that if everyone ONLY buys online, those guys that can't fix it themselves won't have shops to take it to. And less people cycling is bad for everyone
Your magic link pliers can (often) be used to click the new joining link into position! They (should) have a contour on the outside of the jaws to locate on the chain rollers each side of the link, with the jaws around the link, pull the handles apart to get the link clicked into place.
I read on the park tool site, that if the wear is .75 then you should change the chain for 10 speed and if it's .5 and you have 11 speed then you should change. My understanding is that if it's 1% then you probably need to replace the cassette too.
That barely registers as a tool in Australia because it doesn't have a bottle opener on it.
Good video Lama. A couple of suggestions, bang a nail into somewhere and hang the old chain from it. You can then measure length by hanging old + new together without getting greasy crap all over the nice concrete. Shimano say there's a correct chain direction, writing out and IIRC readable if looking at the chain stay. Something some may forget is after several chains the cassette will need replacing. It will shift ok with the old chain but skip with a new chain.
Chain waxing video sounds like a good one... meanwhile in Perth 26 and clear blue sky
If you used the narrow end on the chain and then lined them up together for length you only needed to break the chain once.
That takes the fun out of feeling that..... CLICK twice! ;)
One piece of kit you might want to check out is a BBInfinite bottom bracket. I put one on my Cervelo S3 and it was a huge improvement over the two-cup press fit designs. You should see how well the bottom bracket spins with one installed. Pricey, but worth it in my opinion.
By the way - nice wedding band. I have the exact one. She thought the titanium ring was an acceptable substitute for the titanium bike frame I was lusting after.
Great video mate. I usually change once a year or at 2-3000 kms. Always new quicklink with new chains for me, they're only 3-8 dollars where I live.
I have 7,8 and 10 speed bikes. Has worked for me in heavy rains even.
Perfect timing, new chain coming in the post!
great tip! I buy a little more expensive chains but I get a lot of miles out of them.
Always clean and lube the chain really good after installing.
I have a nail tapped into the door frame of the garage , makes life a little easier for changing the chain. Just hang the old chain on the nail and the new one on top of it, correct length every time. If you ever run monster gears and need a longer chain , mark the length on the door frame with a pen, so even if it's a year later you can just measure off it.
You only need to trim one end!!! Line up using narrow links. Rather than do it on the floor - always dusty and gritty - hang old chain and new chain from nail. This makes lining up and trimming way easier and cleaner. Waxing is brilliant! Spent a happy couple of rainy hours cleaning and waxing using 10p candles and couldn't quite believe how smooth and free my chain ran. Try it out - cheap, fun and effective!
All my video easter eggs have been pinged before it even hit 1000 views! :) Dr SLane is trying to talk me into the waxing...... I could be persuaded..... with cake. (SLane, if you're reading, ccaaakkeeee!)
coles fruit cake?
Thanks for the shout out to one of Minneapolis' home town favorites @parktool
Great vid about the chain wear, you should of just mentioned if you leave it to long it also chews out the cassette and chainrings, then more do$$ars
Shane, video idea. How to dispose of old bike bits. Old wheels, tyres, tubes, chains, etc. Any recycling opportunities?
"Buy Swap Sell Road Cycling" groups on Facebook. Goldmine and/or dumping ground. Everyone wins.
most people say you can already change an 11 speed chain at around 0.5 wear. because 20 bucks won't hurt you and keeps the cogs and chainrings longer in good condition..
btw: you should not reuse a quicklink! all manufactures are against it and not advising it. I think if a chain snapps it could be a painful situation and could end badly.. they talked about this once on a trainer road podcast
So, do you like your Giant more than your Specialized? How about a review on each and the differences? Examples of what you like and don't like?
No, I like the S-Works more. Not sure on bike reviews, they're usually full of crap that sends me to sleep. If I get a new bike one day... maybe.
what the heck is going on at 2:45 ??? Jumpcuts and the garage door gets painted over??? I'm so confused
+laurin schaller Sunlight
Would you recommend changing both the chain and rear cassette at the same time? Becusse they both ware at a similar rate and when you have a new chain with an old cassette it's a bit clunky and rough. This is easier done then said giving most people have multiple rear wheels all with different cassette which would have worn all at different rates
If money wasn't a factor, sure. I usually get 2-3 chains per cassette.
carbon wheels with low profile vs alloy wheels with higher profile??
Depends what for. There's no one right answer here.
What do you find is the best way of cleaning oil off old rags? Do you just chuck it in the washer with everything else or soak them in the sink?
I just get a new rag.
Ha, I like it!
Shano! love the vids as usual, when can we expect a review on the power meter and the chainrings, really interested in how the chainrings hold up vs shimano ones, Cheers!
How many kms does a Ultegra or Durace chain 🔗 last?
All depends on the conditions you ride it. Rain/wet/mud/grit not long. Indoor trainer, ages.
Thanks Shane, on a different topic, can a trainer quick release skewer be used for outdoor rides, eliminating the need to change skewers? Do you see any issues?
They're regular skewers... just a LOT heavier. I run one outside. No problems.
In my experience, 3000 kms is a good estimate. There's rare cases where chains last 10000 kms but that's in perfect conditions.
I usually change them at around 2-3000 kms or once a year, whichever comes first. They're not expensive considering what replacing a cassettte and chainrings would cost.
I'm horrible about changing my chain...I ride em' until they're loose as a goose... mainly because I suck at installing new ones...
What happened to the bike stand ?
+Stephen Williams It's out the back. This was out the front.
Next time give a KMC chain a go love mine and for a similar price you can get three times the kms when compared to duraace!
Are you going to strip off the factory grease or are you going to use it? I find the factory lube lasts a long time but it gets really gummy on a first cleaning. I think it's easier to manage a clean chain if you strip it off and start using a lube of choice. Just curious what you will do with this chain.
I use the factory grease for a few weeks then clean/re-oil. It works well enough for me. A lot of people strip it and put their preferred oil on right away.
Newer Park tool has. 5 for 11 speed chain,. 75 for 10 speed chains and video says 1.0 for 9 speed chains
Damn them! :) Always having to upgrade... even my cheapy tools!
gatech69 but it’s sometimes inaccurate
Is that chain waxed???? There's 6W right there! Run it in..... then we can do a video on waxing! (not the hair removal type like Mavens video :)
I like the idea... the idea. The execution looks laborious. I'll give it a wide berth for now.
I have never killed a chain in my life I swear!
Go and watch oz cycle. Its not that hard to wax your chain. The difference is unbelievable.
+1 On a request for a video on Dr. Stephen Lane's wax process! Shane, here's the deal: You film while he does the labor! Fair trade-off!
Does anyone have much experience running home-brew motoroil based chain lube? I've been trying it over the pasted 200 miles (reapplying after every 30-40 miles) and I'm having my doubts.
Throwing steel into the same bin with everything else?
Do you just use kmc quick links or do you prefer Shimano's in house quick link
KMC or Connex have always been fine for me.
good to know. gonna stick with old faithful kmc links then as i can get a card of 6 pairs for less then the price of two pairs of shimano's ones. I hope eventually shimano starts including them with there chains. I do like my shimano chains though they just seem to run slightly nicer then other brands and can be found for decent deals
which chain links do you use, i was just about to order me some (got an ultegra groupset), the range is a little overwhelming, i know i need a link for 11speed but e.g. sram says that their links will only work with sram chains, help plz!
KMC I believe.
is that quick link from Shimano?
I've no idea what brand it is to be honest. Maybe KMC.
Will try it out on the next chain change. Thanks
Geoffrey Tan sram power links work on shimano chains
LocutFilms, oh alright. Thanks mate
Yeah, quick links have never been a problem in my expiriece. Ive used a lot of combinations. SRAM Quicklink on a Shimano chain, all good. KMC quicklink on Shimano and SRAM chains, all good. Clarks quicklink on Shimano chain, all good.
how about chain sides? this is what Shimano manual says si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-CN0001-05-ENG.pdf
Front (outer side)
The side with the mark shown in the illustration is the
front (outer side).
I don't see any marks on the chain that is being installed on this video. @Shane Miller, please tell me you took sides into account and i can't see it on this video due to video quality.
Surprised you didn't mention why that tool was worth it, considering you need to replace your whole drivetrain chain rings if the wear gets too bad which is enough reason to convince anyone.
Shane, your chain is installed incorrectly on the RD. The chain runs behind the pin near the pulleys not over it.
.
Yep, I screwed it in the rush from the rain. Sorted when I went inside and stuck it on the Kickr.
Would have lost some watts there :)
nice ending to the video
damnit... I wanted to see your method for breaking off the excess side of the pin...
he doesn't, he uses the tool to push the pins all the way out, hence why he uses the power link.
The answer is the Leatherman. It snaps them clean off. It's almost worth doing just for that *CRACK* satisfaction.
Hi Shane - how are the power tap pedals going? I just had mine replaced after 5 months due to play in the axle. How are yours ?
All good so far. I'll do a follow up in the near future.
Update - I am requesting a refund after play in the bearings of the second pair!
bike mechanics always tell me that when I replace my worn chain I must also buy a new cassette to match the new chain, is that a rip off or legit advice??
+They Live We Sleep Depends. I get 2-3 chains per cassette.
If you replace your chain early enough, you should be good for a few chains per cassette. The problem is if you wait too long, the chain and cassette start to wear together such that if you were to put on a new chain, it would skip on the old cassette. If you follow Shane's advice in this video you should get many miles and several chains as Shane states.
With someone like you and I who are so 'OCD' where are your latex gloves Shane? 🤗
Cavemen didn't have such luxuries! So for this video I get primal with tears of dinosaurs (chain oil)
R.I.P. chain you are going to grinding heaven
1% is too late, the cassette is damaged and will wear out new chain quickly. the best thing you can do is ride it further till chain skips teeth on cassette or chain snaps, then replace both. and you should replace cassette every other time you change the chain.
Video good, comments exceptional rain desirable...
What I was wondering are you meant to force the tool in or let it drop in? Also I find the measurement changes depending on if you put it in the small or large gap.
Gravity is too slow. ;) And yep on the big/small gap.
shane you've routed the chain incorrectly through the rear derailleur!
what are your thoughts on the Sky racism incident? Did sky make the right decision keeping Moscon in the race?
+Eli Douek Sorted when I scampered inside and put it in the trainer. All good. Not my place to comment on something I'm not up to speed with re Sky. This video was about the chain tool.
notification squaaad
+John Stamos 🥈
Couple of things… even though the ground was swept, I wouldn't let the chain touch the ground. Hang it from a broke metal coat hanger or something. Comparing lengths to the old chain is fine, but if you're also changing chain ring sizes, cassette sizes or derailleur hanger lengths, use this chain length calculator: www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html you'll need to know your bike's chain stay length but that's the only quirk. Remove the shit chain grease that's on the chain after installing. Depending on your conditions, if *damp* use 'wet' lube, if *dry* use 'dry' lube. Done son!
aghhh never measure the old chain
Don't leave us hanging..... it's never done me any harm when replacing a chain without changing any gear ratios.
yeah fair enough if it's been done correctly the first time but for me it is always best to measure new
Please promote local bike shops instead of online shopping. As online shopping increases and local bike shops go out of business, years of knowledge also disappears. You may pay a couple dollars more at a shop, but with that comes help when you have a mechanical issue you can't solve yourself.
Local bike shops have to adapt to the changing market. They're not facing anything new here at all. If something is cheaper online, buy a LOT, then people will go that route. The shops that have adopted the Internet age have done well, here in Australia anyway. Sure there's international competition, and it's not just a few $, we're talking 1/2 price for basic consumables, but a good shop (well, good people) will step up and provide exceptional customer service. Buy a chain or something online and need it fitted? "Sure, that's $ per hour, happy to do it for you" would be the expected response. The actual response is far less welcoming. More on this with my next video when a local store here in Melbourne sold a broken Neo, refused to refund the money, and was unable to provide the customer a replacement in a suitable timeframe. I ended up fixing it for him, and FOR the bike shop. So..... yes... you've triggered me on this topic.
LocutFilms, people are going to do, what they wanna do, when they wanna do it. If someone wants to learn how their own machine works, no one should stop them! But I'm a 100% do it yourself'er or else it's done wrong bloke.
Some people are , that's cool. But we get a steady stream of people in our shop that have bought the wrong parts online and expect us to sort them out. Sometimes even swap them over to the correct ones. We pride ourselves on good service and still do well. The guys that can do the work themselves arn't the issue, it's the ones that can't. If wiggle buy a pallet of 1000 chains and have a world wide market, how can we compete on price? We can't also have a pallet of every one of our 10000 items in store. Customer service is one thing, but we all know the almighty dollar rules in the long run. My only point is that if everyone ONLY buys online, those guys that can't fix it themselves won't have shops to take it to. And less people cycling is bad for everyone
1
+Arun W 🥇