This is one of the most informative videos for an NSX owner ever... (and I have watched a boat load). I have had an NSX since 2004 and in all my reading never heard of some of these things. I’m about to get some of this maintenance launched...
Thank you for this informative video - I learned so much! I just bought my black 1991 NSX with automatic transmission back in October with 107k miles and I just hit 116k miles! Bought it for a garage queen cruiser but I just can’t seem to leave it in the garage in favor of my 2006 Odyssey. I even have studded winter tires for it because I drove it all winter! I know...I’m crazy but I just love driving it & life is short. I live in Cincinnati area & will look up Source One. I found a great independent guy who used to work for Acura - he has NSX customers from the region come to him for work. I dropped about $2500 on timing belt/water pump, spark plugs, valve adjustment, new rotors/brakes installed. I’ll be looking into the protective pulley plate and butterfly bolt check soon. God bless you for this info. Thanks!
Thanks for watching. I'm going on 11 years with my '92. I'm glad folks are finding the information useful. Hopefully it will help save a C-series or two.
Oil starvation problem is not only for R comps. It happened on mine with 275 Dunlop Dirreza II rears on track. The track do have a lot of elevation change combined with very long double right sweepers. And I've caught my butterfly valve screws from coming loose during intake removal, 2 of them are loose and 1 of them backing out. Red loctite applied to all.
@@LapoftheWorld at that time I'm only testing out the car and wasn't driving hard, didn't plan to, thus i have yet to get the baffle and accusump. Then got a bit faster because cars behind etc, noticed over heating coolant, cool down lap, engine cut off. 2 rod and 1 main bearing toast
@@SoloD33A That's pretty weird. I wonder if there wasn't some other exacerbating factor. Either way, as you say, something to be cognizant of if you're going to track an NSX. I just have a baffled pan and generally only run a 255 rear (though I have run R888s on the car for some TT events) and thus far haven't had any issue.
No problem. That's the goal (well, more to inform vs. scare per se). If it saves you or any other fellow owner/driver from a big shop bill, then it was worth doing.
I got bit by number 4....after the resultant engine rebuild I had not only baffles installed but also a high capacity oil pump with billet gears from SoS. Haven't tracked the car since, but I've done a little light drifting in an empty parking lot. So Far...So Good! 👍🏾
Just bought my first NSX. Very informative video! I will definitely check the first 3 points asap as I don’t have a lot of info on its previous 32 years of life.
@@LapoftheWorld thank you! I will surely order the rubber seals for the coil water issue. I intend to daily it, and it rains a lot in Europe :) I have one question if you don't mind answering. Does the upgraded harmonic Pully need replacing after a while or it's a lifetime upgrade where you can forget about the fear of grenading the engine? Thanks!
@@jy3406 As far as I know there isn't a Honda part number harmonic damper/pulley that doesn't potentially suffer this issue. Most people either 1) buy the balancer shield to put behind the factory part and then inspect occasionally (because this way if it fails you have time to notice before the bad stuff happens) or 2) buy an ATI damper with a mechanically-captive damper element. The former is significantly less expensive hence being more popular.
@@jy3406 It would seem so. That said, I can't easily cite a data point where I know someone's run an ATI damper super long term. For my part I just run the shield and will swap out the OE if/when it fails again. You'd have to do that a few times to offset the cost of the ATI, but as you say, the ATI may be more "set & forget".
Just discovered your videos .. great job. I have a '91 with slightly over 200k miles on it.. prob 30k of which were Canadian winter miles .. also a bunch of track and autocross days .. which I've had for the last 20 years. Fortunately it wasn't in the snap ring range but I did do a preemptive change on the harmonic balancer and am running a baffled pan. Just a couple of suggestions .. (1) you do mention the impact of a timing belt failure but I don't think people pay enough attention to the timing belt service recommendation, which I think was 7 years/80k miles originally but was later extended to 8 or 9 yrs I believe. The problem is that this is a 'whichever comes first' statement and I've seen low mileage/good condition units which are way beyond the time limit. If you own/buy a '91/92 today, it should be on it's 3rd or 4th belt by now unless it's been done in the last 7-8 years .. or has maybe been in storage a long time. Mine has cold-started numerous times at -40 and in spite of that punishment, the belts (at replacement) have been in pretty good shape. But going beyond the recommendation is like Russian roulette with expensive consequences. My (2) point is you might want to order a main fuse (250A) to have on hand just in case. I managed to blow mine during a DIY alternator maintenance and it took the local dealer 3 months to find one. They're not terrible expensive. Otherwise, I think I'm living proof that with normal maintenance and regular driving, these things are amazingly reliable other than the known problems with ABS pump leaks; and the deteriorating capacitor problem which causes electronic failures in the replacement
Thanks for the kind words and suggestions! Definitely check out some of my more recent NSX-specific entries. I think I get to most of what you mention, just not all in one place 😁. I'm nearly done with a DIY belt job, I dealt with some capacitors I think last year, and I 100% carry a main relay with me on any extended trip. Cheers to that mileage though! The NSX may be the poster child for "meant to be driven"! 🍻
Great choice there! I know of a guy who tracks a 996 Turbo with over half a million miles on it. 911s, like the NSX, are definitely built to be driven!
You forgot the “money shift.” Mechanically over-revving the NSX engine by shifting from 4th to 3rd (instead of 5th) will shatter the OEM oil pump gear, causing damage to other engine internals. Expensive mistake and surprisingly common.
Definitely. I could claim it was default covered in the "user error" section, but it is most certainly worth an individual mention. In my experience the money shift in any car is a result of a death-grip on the shifter, and trying to "Vin Diesel" it into gear. Just relax, ask nicely, and you'll never miss, lol.
Yah, I love the NSX transmission’s feel, and in 22 years have never had a close call with this...but know too many folks who have lost an engine to this. With all the rev-matching stuff in newer manuals, which I’m not quite sold on (though Gordon says the T.50 will have, so maybe not too bad), I hope gear lockouts to prevent this kind of thing exists and is common. THIS is a driver aid it would be hard to argue against.
Sorry for posting on a lot of your old videos. It is a good mention about the snap ring and using the transaxle case serial number and not the VIN. Another owner here in Omaha has a 91 NSX one VIN off (yes I said 1) and his is in snap ring range and mine is not.
Hey, no worries 😁. It's good to reinforce that fact as there has been an influx of new owners it seems in the last few years as the values have crept up.
Thanks for doing this video! Curious about item #2 (crank pulley harmonic balancer separation) . Does this happen to all first gen NSX and that everyone who owns a NA1 NSX will have to either replace or use the mentioned "shield" to prevent the failure? or is it based on a defect of the pulley?
Any first gen car could be susceptible. NA1 and NA2 (same part number for the pulley). The shield or ATI replacement are the best methods since there isn't a known bad batch or identifiable cause as to why it happens to some and not others.
I'd be really curious how many years/miles were on the car with the earliest instance of this happening. Was it an issue from the start, or did it take 15 years to manifest for the first time. If I have occasion to remove the manifold I plan to have them tack welded, but so far mine have continued to stay put.
Richard, Looking to fit the crank P\pulley balancer shield, you mentioned that some special tools may be required. Honda has closed all dealerships in Australia so wouls you please advise which special tools are required, Thanks Peter
The "crankshaft pulley holder" tool. It's the only special tool you need really. Except for early '91 cars it's the 45mm version. You can find 3rd party version on Amazon or other outlets for relatively cheap. Factor part number: 07NAB-001030A for reference.
Lap of the World I did thanks...not a cheap repair but luckily no bent values. Great content i have subscribed and looking forward to more NSX content...thanks!
Good ole Enkei RPF-1s. 17" all around I think 8" front and 9.5" rear with 215/40-17 and 255/40-17 tires respectively. Not the most exclusive wheel, but strong, light, and good value.
If you track your NSX and worry about oil starvation in long duration right hand turns, ie Road America Carousel......just upgrade to 2017+ NSX LOL! dry sump oil with 8 qt oil capacity. Oh crud, you mentioned the new NSX. I GUESS I should have watched the video to end before making comment.
Lol. :) Relevant story: The one question I had for Ted Klauss at NSXPO 2013, when he was there talking about the early details of the new car, was if it would be dry sumped. Now, let me just scrape together the ~$120,000 or so I'd need after trade and I'll go look into that :D.
I'm curious what you've done for #4 to your car? I've got a baffled oil pan on mine and have considered an Accusump, but don't really like the added "complication" of the Accusump. Also curious if you've added an oil cooler to your car. I can only get about six laps before my oil hits 275F or so.
Right, 'things I should have mentioned. :) I have a baffled oil pan, and I haven't tracked the car on anything stickier than a Toyo R888 (since I drive to/from each track), so without right-handed banking involved, I'm unlikely to generate enough lateral force to get me in trouble. I haven't added an oil cooler (beyond the stock item), but most of the "intense" track work I've done has been with Time Trials, so typically I'm only really on my horse for 3 laps at most of a 6-7 lap session. I could see adding a supplemental cooler and/or a high capacity pan down the road.
I typically drive on my Fat Fives (205/50/15+225/50/16) with street tires (RE-71R, Falken RT615K+, etc) so I have never felt like I had enough grip to really be concerned about oil starvation. It also keeps me slow and "relatively safe". One of these days I should keep going and see if the oil temps level off somewhere reasonable; for all I know, they hit 280F and stay there, in which case a cooler makes no sense.
Yeah, I moved up to the 215/255 section tires on taller wheels for some combination of more grip and better (humble opinion) aesthetics :). Are you just running the factory-spec 10w30, or have you gone to a different viscosity for track use? (FTR, I still use 10w30 at this point).
I cheat and use Red Line 10W-30, which has a 3.5 HTHS making it a "thick 30", so to speak, while technically being "factory correct". It's also just a very stable, good oil. Of course, most modern oils are great. I'd probably run M1 0W-40 if I wanted an "off the shelf" oil.
Thanks for watching! 2 and 3 apply to any 1st gen NSX ('91-'05). The crank pulley part number is the same from '91-'05. The NA2 cars ('97-05) also use the same VVIS butterfly design as the earlier cars so that also covers essentially any 1st gen NSX.
As of at least today he is still in business. He's a one-man show and is rebuilding his website while also making parts, so the site's been down for a little while. Contact through the Facebook page to order stuff: facebook.com/Cedar-Ridge-Fabrication-LLC-1709306112629624
Yup. '75 280 Z "work in progress" (but on pause for like 5 years at this point because I've moved twice and have two other needy cars and not enough money, lol)
I wasn't sure if this was a joke until I looked at your channel. 'Glad you got it fixed, but definitely a demonstration of what can happen (and some sound advice in your description). If you're still in the PNW, are you planning to attend 'XPO next year? If so I may see you out there.
This is one of the most informative videos for an NSX owner ever... (and I have watched a boat load). I have had an NSX since 2004 and in all my reading never heard of some of these things. I’m about to get some of this maintenance launched...
Thank you for this informative video - I learned so much! I just bought my black 1991 NSX with automatic transmission back in October with 107k miles and I just hit 116k miles! Bought it for a garage queen cruiser but I just can’t seem to leave it in the garage in favor of my 2006 Odyssey. I even have studded winter tires for it because I drove it all winter! I know...I’m crazy but I just love driving it & life is short. I live in Cincinnati area & will look up Source One. I found a great independent guy who used to work for Acura - he has NSX customers from the region come to him for work. I dropped about $2500 on timing belt/water pump, spark plugs, valve adjustment, new rotors/brakes installed. I’ll be looking into the protective pulley plate and butterfly bolt check soon. God bless you for this info. Thanks!
Grats on your purchase! These cars love to be driven, so no need to be shy about mileage. I'm glad you found the video useful; that was my hope.
How was it driving yor NSX in winter with studs? I'd love to buy another one just to have a winter car.
Very informative video! I've had my 91 for 20 years now and this was a great reminder of the few vulnerabilities this fantastic car has. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching. I'm going on 11 years with my '92. I'm glad folks are finding the information useful. Hopefully it will help save a C-series or two.
Oil starvation problem is not only for R comps. It happened on mine with 275 Dunlop Dirreza II rears on track. The track do have a lot of elevation change combined with very long double right sweepers.
And I've caught my butterfly valve screws from coming loose during intake removal, 2 of them are loose and 1 of them backing out. Red loctite applied to all.
At which track did that happen? Curious if I've been there yet or not.
@@LapoftheWorld The Ridge in WA
@@SoloD33A Thanks, I'll do a little extra research before I go there. Did you have any mitigating mods? Baffled pan, etc.?
@@LapoftheWorld at that time I'm only testing out the car and wasn't driving hard, didn't plan to, thus i have yet to get the baffle and accusump. Then got a bit faster because cars behind etc, noticed over heating coolant, cool down lap, engine cut off. 2 rod and 1 main bearing toast
@@SoloD33A That's pretty weird. I wonder if there wasn't some other exacerbating factor. Either way, as you say, something to be cognizant of if you're going to track an NSX. I just have a baffled pan and generally only run a 255 rear (though I have run R888s on the car for some TT events) and thus far haven't had any issue.
Having only owned mine for 7 months now, I learned a lot from this video. You've scared the crap out of me... thank you for this.
No problem. That's the goal (well, more to inform vs. scare per se). If it saves you or any other fellow owner/driver from a big shop bill, then it was worth doing.
I got bit by number 4....after the resultant engine rebuild I had not only baffles installed but also a high capacity oil pump with billet gears from SoS. Haven't tracked the car since, but I've done a little light drifting in an empty parking lot. So Far...So Good! 👍🏾
Thank you for the 3 first nightmares I never ever thought of.
Just bought my first NSX. Very informative video! I will definitely check the first 3 points asap as I don’t have a lot of info on its previous 32 years of life.
Grats on the purchase and happy motoring!
@@LapoftheWorld thank you! I will surely order the rubber seals for the coil water issue. I intend to daily it, and it rains a lot in Europe :) I have one question if you don't mind answering. Does the upgraded harmonic Pully need replacing after a while or it's a lifetime upgrade where you can forget about the fear of grenading the engine? Thanks!
@@jy3406 As far as I know there isn't a Honda part number harmonic damper/pulley that doesn't potentially suffer this issue. Most people either 1) buy the balancer shield to put behind the factory part and then inspect occasionally (because this way if it fails you have time to notice before the bad stuff happens) or 2) buy an ATI damper with a mechanically-captive damper element. The former is significantly less expensive hence being more popular.
@@LapoftheWorld thank you! So this ATI damper would be a more “lifetime” safe option.
@@jy3406 It would seem so. That said, I can't easily cite a data point where I know someone's run an ATI damper super long term. For my part I just run the shield and will swap out the OE if/when it fails again. You'd have to do that a few times to offset the cost of the ATI, but as you say, the ATI may be more "set & forget".
Just discovered your videos .. great job. I have a '91 with slightly over 200k miles on it.. prob 30k of which were Canadian winter miles .. also a bunch of track and autocross days .. which I've had for the last 20 years. Fortunately it wasn't in the snap ring range but I did do a preemptive change on the harmonic balancer and am running a baffled pan. Just a couple of suggestions .. (1) you do mention the impact of a timing belt failure but I don't think people pay enough attention to the timing belt service recommendation, which I think was 7 years/80k miles originally but was later extended to 8 or 9 yrs I believe. The problem is that this is a 'whichever comes first' statement and I've seen low mileage/good condition units which are way beyond the time limit. If you own/buy a '91/92 today, it should be on it's 3rd or 4th belt by now unless it's been done in the last 7-8 years .. or has maybe been in storage a long time. Mine has cold-started numerous times at -40 and in spite of that punishment, the belts (at replacement) have been in pretty good shape. But going beyond the recommendation is like Russian roulette with expensive consequences. My (2) point is you might want to order a main fuse (250A) to have on hand just in case. I managed to blow mine during a DIY alternator maintenance and it took the local dealer 3 months to find one. They're not terrible expensive.
Otherwise, I think I'm living proof that with normal maintenance and regular driving, these things are amazingly reliable other than the known problems with ABS pump leaks; and the deteriorating capacitor problem which causes electronic failures in the replacement
Thanks for the kind words and suggestions! Definitely check out some of my more recent NSX-specific entries. I think I get to most of what you mention, just not all in one place 😁. I'm nearly done with a DIY belt job, I dealt with some capacitors I think last year, and I 100% carry a main relay with me on any extended trip. Cheers to that mileage though! The NSX may be the poster child for "meant to be driven"! 🍻
Inspired videos thanks for doing it. Just bought a 103,000 miles Porsche 911. Let the journey begin!
Great choice there! I know of a guy who tracks a 996 Turbo with over half a million miles on it. 911s, like the NSX, are definitely built to be driven!
You forgot the “money shift.” Mechanically over-revving the NSX engine by shifting from 4th to 3rd (instead of 5th) will shatter the OEM oil pump gear, causing damage to other engine internals. Expensive mistake and surprisingly common.
Definitely. I could claim it was default covered in the "user error" section, but it is most certainly worth an individual mention. In my experience the money shift in any car is a result of a death-grip on the shifter, and trying to "Vin Diesel" it into gear. Just relax, ask nicely, and you'll never miss, lol.
Yah, I love the NSX transmission’s feel, and in 22 years have never had a close call with this...but know too many folks who have lost an engine to this. With all the rev-matching stuff in newer manuals, which I’m not quite sold on (though Gordon says the T.50 will have, so maybe not too bad), I hope gear lockouts to prevent this kind of thing exists and is common. THIS is a driver aid it would be hard to argue against.
Sorry for posting on a lot of your old videos. It is a good mention about the snap ring and using the transaxle case serial number and not the VIN. Another owner here in Omaha has a 91 NSX one VIN off (yes I said 1) and his is in snap ring range and mine is not.
Hey, no worries 😁. It's good to reinforce that fact as there has been an influx of new owners it seems in the last few years as the values have crept up.
Thanks for doing this video! Curious about item #2 (crank pulley harmonic balancer separation) . Does this happen to all first gen NSX and that everyone who owns a NA1 NSX will have to either replace or use the mentioned "shield" to prevent the failure? or is it based on a defect of the pulley?
Any first gen car could be susceptible. NA1 and NA2 (same part number for the pulley). The shield or ATI replacement are the best methods since there isn't a known bad batch or identifiable cause as to why it happens to some and not others.
Wow never knew about the butterfly valve on the intake manifold screws. Scary stuff. Seems like honda should have staked them.
I'd be really curious how many years/miles were on the car with the earliest instance of this happening. Was it an issue from the start, or did it take 15 years to manifest for the first time. If I have occasion to remove the manifold I plan to have them tack welded, but so far mine have continued to stay put.
Richard, Looking to fit the crank P\pulley balancer shield, you mentioned that some special tools may be required. Honda has closed all dealerships in Australia so wouls you please advise which special tools are required, Thanks Peter
The "crankshaft pulley holder" tool. It's the only special tool you need really. Except for early '91 cars it's the 45mm version. You can find 3rd party version on Amazon or other outlets for relatively cheap. Factor part number: 07NAB-001030A for reference.
Great video man
Just found your channel...wish i found it sooner. # 2 happened to me. Very informative information
Well, I hope you were able to get it fixed afterwards. The balancer failure is a weird one for sure.
Lap of the World I did thanks...not a cheap repair but luckily no bent values. Great content i have subscribed and looking forward to more NSX content...thanks!
I'm considering getting an automatic NSX as my second car. Also amazing content I'm gonna sub
Hey
Great info.... Thanks
Question please:
What are those rims on your car?
New sub
Good ole Enkei RPF-1s. 17" all around I think 8" front and 9.5" rear with 215/40-17 and 255/40-17 tires respectively. Not the most exclusive wheel, but strong, light, and good value.
If you track your NSX and worry about oil starvation in long duration right hand turns, ie Road America Carousel......just upgrade to 2017+ NSX LOL! dry sump oil with 8 qt oil capacity.
Oh crud, you mentioned the new NSX. I GUESS I should have watched the video to end before making comment.
Lol. :) Relevant story: The one question I had for Ted Klauss at NSXPO 2013, when he was there talking about the early details of the new car, was if it would be dry sumped. Now, let me just scrape together the ~$120,000 or so I'd need after trade and I'll go look into that :D.
thank you very much for all the informations ! Very precious as a future buyer (I hope^^)
Best of luck with your search!
I'm curious what you've done for #4 to your car? I've got a baffled oil pan on mine and have considered an Accusump, but don't really like the added "complication" of the Accusump. Also curious if you've added an oil cooler to your car. I can only get about six laps before my oil hits 275F or so.
Right, 'things I should have mentioned. :) I have a baffled oil pan, and I haven't tracked the car on anything stickier than a Toyo R888 (since I drive to/from each track), so without right-handed banking involved, I'm unlikely to generate enough lateral force to get me in trouble. I haven't added an oil cooler (beyond the stock item), but most of the "intense" track work I've done has been with Time Trials, so typically I'm only really on my horse for 3 laps at most of a 6-7 lap session. I could see adding a supplemental cooler and/or a high capacity pan down the road.
I typically drive on my Fat Fives (205/50/15+225/50/16) with street tires (RE-71R, Falken RT615K+, etc) so I have never felt like I had enough grip to really be concerned about oil starvation. It also keeps me slow and "relatively safe". One of these days I should keep going and see if the oil temps level off somewhere reasonable; for all I know, they hit 280F and stay there, in which case a cooler makes no sense.
Yeah, I moved up to the 215/255 section tires on taller wheels for some combination of more grip and better (humble opinion) aesthetics :). Are you just running the factory-spec 10w30, or have you gone to a different viscosity for track use? (FTR, I still use 10w30 at this point).
I cheat and use Red Line 10W-30, which has a 3.5 HTHS making it a "thick 30", so to speak, while technically being "factory correct". It's also just a very stable, good oil. Of course, most modern oils are great. I'd probably run M1 0W-40 if I wanted an "off the shelf" oil.
We use a Accusump on our race NSX, it doesn't add much complexity at all, especially paired with Hydraulically clamped lines.
Great video bro!
Awesome video!
you just got a new sub
🙌 Awesome! Thanks for the support!
Does 2 and 3 apply to Na2 97-01 nsxs?
Thanks for watching! 2 and 3 apply to any 1st gen NSX ('91-'05). The crank pulley part number is the same from '91-'05. The NA2 cars ('97-05) also use the same VVIS butterfly design as the earlier cars so that also covers essentially any 1st gen NSX.
It appears that Cedar Ridge Fab is no longer there.
As of at least today he is still in business. He's a one-man show and is rebuilding his website while also making parts, so the site's been down for a little while. Contact through the Facebook page to order stuff: facebook.com/Cedar-Ridge-Fabrication-LLC-1709306112629624
I was 101
Is That a datsun!?
Yup. '75 280 Z "work in progress" (but on pause for like 5 years at this point because I've moved twice and have two other needy cars and not enough money, lol)
Been subscribed since you had a few hundred followers, love all you do!!!
@@emd1405 🍻 Heck yeah, thanks for the support / encouragement!
Shoot I failed with no 5. Doh
I wasn't sure if this was a joke until I looked at your channel. 'Glad you got it fixed, but definitely a demonstration of what can happen (and some sound advice in your description). If you're still in the PNW, are you planning to attend 'XPO next year? If so I may see you out there.
@@LapoftheWorld yes I plan to goto portland !