What a fantastic video, you explain every step so well. I have been subscribed to your site from the start and find them informative. So now I can do the rest of my fleet cheaper than buying Express Models kits. Keep up the good work. Regards John
Thank you so much for the kind words, John. Really appreciate it. I have to admit, I do buy the Express Models lighting kits too from time to time, as they're a great product and make the whole process a lot quicker. I recently did a Class 24 and used their lights, and they work really well. But, if you have the time and patience, making these up yourself for about £5 total can save you a little bit of money. It also makes further bespoke customisation of lighting possible...I'm still trying to perfect some highland-style headlights using these wee LEDs!
No worries. It can make a real difference and once upgrades, they can give newer models a good run for their money! I've filmed upgrading the speaker in the 47 (needs editing) and, once I get a moment, I'll probably do a quick weathering video to finish the mini series. Not enough hours in the day to do it all quickly though! Best of luck with your upgrades.
Hi love the video very detailed. Im currently upgrading my Lima class 47 and have installed a DCC decoder and now started on the lighting. Im having trouble locating a supplier for the miniture 3-in one plugs & sockets wonder if you can help? Regards Chris
I bought the ones in this video from a retailer around fivie years ago and I don't think they're trading anymore. I'll have a check and also see if I can find another source. If I have anything of use to share, I'll pop it in another comment below. Many thanks!
Thank you for showing cracking vids on this subject....it’s just a shame I’m a dc dinosaur....regards fred...ps had a look at your web site ..what an amazing guy you are ...brilliant tutorials 👌
Thank you, Fred. I really appreciate the kind comments. You can install lights broadly like this on a dc system, if you feel inclined. The resistor values can be the same (or you may prefer to have them slightly lower, if you want the lights brighter at slower speeds). You just need to leave out the decoder and reverse some of the LEDs. So, headlights in no.1 cab and rear lights in No.2 cab have their LEDs in one orientation, and headlights in no.2 cab and rear lights LEDs in no.1 cab have them installed the other way around. Doing so, only one combination will come on in one direction.
clean installed in the upper part, will I remember how to make it, got in front of me in the course of the year a class 37 and 47 of lima with ebay England bid, greeting Andreas
Very best of luck with them. With a little bit of work and detailing, the Lima class 37s and 47s can still be nice wee models. I think the main thing is to make sure that they either have a decent ringfield motor in them, or change out the ringfield for a 'CD motor'. That way they will run fairly well, as well as look good. I'll be doing a video on that in due course, but there are one or two out there already showing how it's done.
Strathpeffer Junction , Thanks for the information, I have digitally rebuilt already 2 lima Locos and run fine, just the wheels are very dirt sensitive, please excuse me if this is English not so good
Many thanks, Tony. Much appreciated. I don't have a professional electrical background, but I did a lot of volunteer theatrical lighting work when I was younger and have dabbled with hobby electronics for a while, so that is probably why I love soldering and tinkering with circuits!
For doming the optical fibres how about spinning the fibre in the chuck of a mini drill when its being sanded, that way it should be easier to get it symmetrical
Hi Michael. Yes, it's just a small strip of copper clad board with the copper cut out in a grid shape, with SMD resistors soldered across. You can buy something similar from LaisDCC, although all the resistors are the same value (which may be too low a resistance for red rear lights) and they're quite pricey for what they are.
I thought that the two videos were very good, and helpful. Could you give links for where you get the components from? Circuit board, resistors, LEDs etc. Thanks Alan
Hi Alan. Many thanks indeed for the great feedback. I got a few requests for components links, so I've started putting links on my newer videos. If there's anything specific you're having trouble tracking down on this one, let me know and I'll happily point you in the direction of where I got stuff from.
And in terms of the wee smd resistors, I bought a starter bag to begin with. It was something like this one: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302912212700
Hi David, this video came up on my TH-cam channel late last night so watched all 3 till the early hours .... the LED's you used are they available on ebay or do you sell as a kit as I have a couple of Diesel locos I will probably add this chip and lights ... also im still on with my layout should be up and running in summer but the Attic is no no so building a shed ... Regards John
Hi John. Many thanks for the message. I'm happy to hear that the video was of use to you. I don't currently sell the LEDs I used, but there are fairly easy to track down on ebay. Just make sure that you get ones with pre-soldered wires otherwise they are extremely fiddly to use. I think I used 0402 smd LEDs for that job, but you might get away with the slightly larger 0603. The 0402 are ideal if you're OK working with such tiny components, as they'll tiny and easier to fit into small spaces.
Hi David, very nice collection of videos on installing lights. I think we both tend to use the same materials, SMD’s, LED’s Fiber Optics etc. When I use Fiber Optics with SMD’s I tend to use thin gauge Fiber to go through the drilled holes and at the other end I use a slightly wider Fiber, slide the SMD inside and then slide the wider Fiber over the thinner. (Hope that made sense, you can then paint the Fiber black without it going on the SMD). Can I ask, does the Activator work on all glue’s, I think it is something I need to buy?…Simon
Thanks, Simon. I think I can just about suss out what you do there! I'll try to give it a shot next time (might be an 08, as I've one I'd like to light up once it's resprayed). Re the cyanoacrylate activator, it can be hit and miss. They normally suggest you buy the same company's activator. I've found that the activator seems to work OK with the glue that I have, but I have heard from some folk that they've had problems mixing brands. So, I guess to be absolutely sure, it's probably best to buy the same brand. It is great stuff though. Particularly for fiddly stuff like this. I think the instructions say to spray it first, then bring the two parts together, but I find with tiny wee bits with very little glue, spraying once in place works OK.
You could do with painting the inside in black as most Lima bodies have a lot of light bleed, when you put LEDs directional lighting hence the painting the inside Black as Lima as a much thinner quality of plastic.Bachmann / Hornby / Heljan / Dapol are a better plastic and I find I don’t need to paint the inside. Thumbs up, great Tutorial 👍
Hi Jamie. Many thanks for the comment. I did indeed paint the inside plastic (around the LED installation point) black for that very reason. Once you've sealed in the light by painting over the LEDs etc., you don't get any/much light spillage inside either. Without black paint, the light bleed can be pretty bad in these Limas, but it can be an issue in Bachmann and Hornby ones too (speaking from earlier mistakes!).
Hi great vid, i have done the same idea on a lima 37 but yours is wired better as to using smaller LEDS and fibre, i used 2mm LED's as far as i can remember, i made up a small circuit board at each end which at the motor end was very tight. Some better ideas from you for my next attempt. Regards Paul
I wired my Hornby 47 in a similar manner although you did a neater job with those LED'S. Not sure I would want to do all my loco's like this its a time consuming operation, I may look at these eBay lighting units for a few of the more complex ones.
It does take a wee bit of time, but I've used both pre-made and my own, and there's pros and cons to both. Doing it yourself does cost a fraction, but like you say, can be a bit more fiddly depending on the model and lighting arrangement.
You'd struggle to do that with a TTS decoder out of the box as your very limited in what you can tweak and map, but you might be able to do it if you use the single aux function to work a transistor, which then switches the feed to red lights on and off.
I've not worked out the circuitry, buy my guess is you could use the the green aux wire to power the lights, irrespective of cab, and have two transistors linked to the white and yellow wires, which switch the cab light on/off depending on the direction of travel. You could then control the cab light on/off via the green wire, but it would only come on depending on which direction the loco was running. You may even be able to wire it so that it only comes on if the running lights are off. I'd need to test a circuit as this is just off the top of my (new dad baby brain) head, but I think something along these lines could work in theory at least.
Everything worked out fine. I now have the Class 47 and a Bachmann Class 20 now fitted with TTS decoders. I am wondering about fitting lights to this class 20, and the Hornby Class 31 TTS. Have I the nerve?
William Glover Great news re the decoders! Buying an express models lighting kit (if they do one for those models) cuts out a lot of the fiddly prep work (albeit not always all), but they are around £15 each I think. Let me know how you get on 👍🏻
And yet another damn fine video. I was wondering during the video why you didn't drill and use smaller LEDS. Hmm prototypical huh. Still nice to see what those other wires are for. I don't think you can get away with a short video with the type of conversation you are doing. Still another good one cheers. Looking forward to number 3.....oh can we see the locomotive running when you are finished?
Many thanks, Guy. Much appreciated. Yes, for the headcode and headlights, you could probably get away with non-smd LEDs in some circumstances, but the fit is not always quite right and I try not to drill new holes unless I absolutely need to as I've sometimes ended up making a mess of things. If I can use existing openings with miniature LEDs, that's what I tend to try to do - but it does take longer and can be quite fiddly. You also tend to get 'normal' LEDs in 5mm, 3mm and 1.8mm (tower) sizes, which isn't always ideal, as they tend to be slightly too big. But, if you're not bothered about being absolutely prototypical, which is totally fine as everyone has different properties in their modelling, then they can be a much simpler and easier option. I probably won't have enough progress on the layout to have the loco running on that, but I'll set up an oval so I can run it properly. I've not been a huge fan of Lima's since moving on my childhood ones, but now I've spent so much time on this one, I'm getting a soft spot for it! I still don't like traction tyres, though... 😉
@@StrathpefferJunction hense why my Australian based lima class 44s/930s have athearn sd9 mechs under the bodies. Same with my lima gm class bodies for traction and also due to not like traction tyres
I did wonder about that. I have a hot air station, but have never tried using paste for this. I was mainly put off by the cost of the paste. Do you have a good supplier reasonably priced?
i use easy print syringes and this stuff it does last a while as i only use it for very fine work XG-50 Liquid Solder Paste and www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMD-Easy-Print-Solder-Paste-SN62-Pb36-Ag2-8g-1-4ml/161790037078?epid=1842305652&hash=item25ab700c56:g:8AUAAOSw95lbFXch:rk:1:pf:0
These series of videos are great for upgrading those trusty Lima locos, can't wait to get my class 31's into a similar upgraded state. May I ask where you obtain your wired SMD LEDs from please?
Hi Simon. Many thanks for your comment; I'm really glad the videos are of use. I get my SMD LEDs from AliExpress. They take two or three weeks to arrive, but they're pretty good value. You can get them from ebay and some seller on there are UK merchants, but the price is normally a lot steeper and for less quantity, but they will arrive a lot quicker. I used 0603 size pre-wired one, but I also have the even smaller 0402 ones, which are handy for making tail lamps etc.
This is a link to the 0402 ones: www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-bag-0402-SMD-Pre-soldered-micro-litz-wired-LED-leads-resistor-20cm-8-15V-Model/32828588727.html
I think I got the resistors from RS electronics in the UK, but I honestly can't remember. For this sort of usage, most sources will probably be ok. Tolerance isn't too much of an issue for this application.
![ไข้ขึ้นเลย! เมื่อแฝดโดนจัดเต็มวัคซีนครบ2เดือน🤒 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.54 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z2VHItnyyvY/mqdefault.jpg)
What a fantastic video, you explain every step so well. I have been subscribed to your site from the start and find them informative. So now I can do the rest of my fleet cheaper than buying Express Models kits. Keep up the good work.
Regards
John
Thank you so much for the kind words, John. Really appreciate it. I have to admit, I do buy the Express Models lighting kits too from time to time, as they're a great product and make the whole process a lot quicker. I recently did a Class 24 and used their lights, and they work really well. But, if you have the time and patience, making these up yourself for about £5 total can save you a little bit of money. It also makes further bespoke customisation of lighting possible...I'm still trying to perfect some highland-style headlights using these wee LEDs!
Stunning videos. You clearly have the patience of a saint.
Many thanks indeed, John. My patience is tried at times! :)
Great mod. I have a train that I would like to do the same thing. You have given me a bit more courage to attempt the project. 👍👍
Many thanks indeed for the comments. Very best of luck with your project.
Nice one. I've just made a start to converting my old Lima stock. Thank you for the inspiration.
No worries. It can make a real difference and once upgrades, they can give newer models a good run for their money! I've filmed upgrading the speaker in the 47 (needs editing) and, once I get a moment, I'll probably do a quick weathering video to finish the mini series. Not enough hours in the day to do it all quickly though! Best of luck with your upgrades.
Hi love the video very detailed. Im currently upgrading my Lima class 47 and have installed a DCC decoder and now started on the lighting. Im having trouble locating a supplier for the miniture 3-in one plugs & sockets wonder if you can help?
Regards
Chris
I bought the ones in this video from a retailer around fivie years ago and I don't think they're trading anymore. I'll have a check and also see if I can find another source. If I have anything of use to share, I'll pop it in another comment below. Many thanks!
@@StrathpefferJunction Thanks Chris
Thank you for showing cracking vids on this subject....it’s just a shame I’m a dc dinosaur....regards fred...ps had a look at your web site ..what an amazing guy you are ...brilliant tutorials 👌
Thank you, Fred. I really appreciate the kind comments. You can install lights broadly like this on a dc system, if you feel inclined. The resistor values can be the same (or you may prefer to have them slightly lower, if you want the lights brighter at slower speeds). You just need to leave out the decoder and reverse some of the LEDs. So, headlights in no.1 cab and rear lights in No.2 cab have their LEDs in one orientation, and headlights in no.2 cab and rear lights LEDs in no.1 cab have them installed the other way around. Doing so, only one combination will come on in one direction.
Strathpeffer Junction .....thanks for the info .....
No probs. I tweaked my last comment a little bit to make it clearer. ☺️
Hi David, total newbie to this. Do you have any photos of how you cut the copper board for the makeshift pcb?
Could you make the wiring diagram available again please?
Good video keep making them they good to watch
clean installed in the upper part, will I remember how to make it, got in front of me in the course of the year a class 37 and 47 of lima with ebay England bid, greeting Andreas
Very best of luck with them. With a little bit of work and detailing, the Lima class 37s and 47s can still be nice wee models. I think the main thing is to make sure that they either have a decent ringfield motor in them, or change out the ringfield for a 'CD motor'. That way they will run fairly well, as well as look good. I'll be doing a video on that in due course, but there are one or two out there already showing how it's done.
Strathpeffer Junction , Thanks for the information, I have digitally rebuilt already 2 lima Locos and run fine, just the wheels are very dirt sensitive, please excuse me if this is English not so good
Your English is fine...better than many people born in the UK!
Another very informative and concise video loved it .Have you got an electrical background
Many thanks, Tony. Much appreciated. I don't have a professional electrical background, but I did a lot of volunteer theatrical lighting work when I was younger and have dabbled with hobby electronics for a while, so that is probably why I love soldering and tinkering with circuits!
Your videos are always an inspiration. Please keep it up. :)
Many thanks, Luke. Much appreciated ☺️
For doming the optical fibres how about spinning the fibre in the chuck of a mini drill when its being sanded, that way it should be easier to get it symmetrical
Excellent idea. I'll definitely give that a shot next time and see how I get on. Thank you very much. 👍🏻
Hi David, yet more excellent info. One question please, have you made the little PC board yourself ?
Hi Michael. Yes, it's just a small strip of copper clad board with the copper cut out in a grid shape, with SMD resistors soldered across. You can buy something similar from LaisDCC, although all the resistors are the same value (which may be too low a resistance for red rear lights) and they're quite pricey for what they are.
@@StrathpefferJunction many thanks David.
No worries.
I thought that the two videos were very good, and helpful. Could you give links for where you get the components from? Circuit board, resistors, LEDs etc.
Thanks
Alan
Hi Alan. Many thanks indeed for the great feedback. I got a few requests for components links, so I've started putting links on my newer videos. If there's anything specific you're having trouble tracking down on this one, let me know and I'll happily point you in the direction of where I got stuff from.
@@StrathpefferJunction specifically the small resistors and LEDs, please.
And in terms of the wee smd resistors, I bought a starter bag to begin with. It was something like this one: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302912212700
@@StrathpefferJunction Thanks for that. Without the knowledge, or the exact names of the components you can't search properly.
No problem. Aliexpress is great for electronics consumables, so long as you don't mind waiting a few weeks for them to arrive.
Hi David, this video came up on my TH-cam channel late last night so watched all 3 till the early hours .... the LED's you used are they available on ebay or do you sell as a kit as I have a couple of Diesel locos I will probably add this chip and lights ... also im still on with my layout should be up and running in summer but the Attic is no no so building a shed ... Regards John
Hi John. Many thanks for the message. I'm happy to hear that the video was of use to you. I don't currently sell the LEDs I used, but there are fairly easy to track down on ebay. Just make sure that you get ones with pre-soldered wires otherwise they are extremely fiddly to use. I think I used 0402 smd LEDs for that job, but you might get away with the slightly larger 0603. The 0402 are ideal if you're OK working with such tiny components, as they'll tiny and easier to fit into small spaces.
Hi David, very nice collection of videos on installing lights. I think we both tend to use the same materials, SMD’s, LED’s Fiber Optics etc. When I use Fiber Optics with SMD’s I tend to use thin gauge Fiber to go through the drilled holes and at the other end I use a slightly wider Fiber, slide the SMD inside and then slide the wider Fiber over the thinner. (Hope that made sense, you can then paint the Fiber black without it going on the SMD). Can I ask, does the Activator work on all glue’s, I think it is something I need to buy?…Simon
Thanks, Simon. I think I can just about suss out what you do there! I'll try to give it a shot next time (might be an 08, as I've one I'd like to light up once it's resprayed). Re the cyanoacrylate activator, it can be hit and miss. They normally suggest you buy the same company's activator. I've found that the activator seems to work OK with the glue that I have, but I have heard from some folk that they've had problems mixing brands. So, I guess to be absolutely sure, it's probably best to buy the same brand. It is great stuff though. Particularly for fiddly stuff like this. I think the instructions say to spray it first, then bring the two parts together, but I find with tiny wee bits with very little glue, spraying once in place works OK.
You could do with painting the inside in black as most Lima bodies have a lot of light bleed, when you put LEDs directional lighting hence the painting the inside Black as Lima as a much thinner quality of plastic.Bachmann / Hornby / Heljan / Dapol are a better plastic and I find I don’t need to paint the inside. Thumbs up, great Tutorial 👍
Hi Jamie. Many thanks for the comment. I did indeed paint the inside plastic (around the LED installation point) black for that very reason. Once you've sealed in the light by painting over the LEDs etc., you don't get any/much light spillage inside either. Without black paint, the light bleed can be pretty bad in these Limas, but it can be an issue in Bachmann and Hornby ones too (speaking from earlier mistakes!).
Hi great vid, i have done the same idea on a lima 37 but yours is wired better as to using smaller LEDS and fibre, i used 2mm LED's as far as i can remember, i made up a small circuit board at each end which at the motor end was very tight. Some better ideas from you for my next attempt.
Regards Paul
Glad to be of help! The first one I did used bigger LEDs, but with these nano LEDs becoming cheaper, they're my go to ones now. 🙂
I wired my Hornby 47 in a similar manner although you did a neater job with those LED'S. Not sure I would want to do all my loco's like this its a time consuming operation, I may look at these eBay lighting units for a few of the more complex ones.
It does take a wee bit of time, but I've used both pre-made and my own, and there's pros and cons to both. Doing it yourself does cost a fraction, but like you say, can be a bit more fiddly depending on the model and lighting arrangement.
Is it possible to have the red rear lights switchable when hauling?
You'd struggle to do that with a TTS decoder out of the box as your very limited in what you can tweak and map, but you might be able to do it if you use the single aux function to work a transistor, which then switches the feed to red lights on and off.
@@StrathpefferJunction Such a good idea... now I'm looking out for the video!!!!
@@StrathpefferJunction would you need to drive 2 transistors, 1 for each cab?
I've not worked out the circuitry, buy my guess is you could use the the green aux wire to power the lights, irrespective of cab, and have two transistors linked to the white and yellow wires, which switch the cab light on/off depending on the direction of travel. You could then control the cab light on/off via the green wire, but it would only come on depending on which direction the loco was running. You may even be able to wire it so that it only comes on if the running lights are off. I'd need to test a circuit as this is just off the top of my (new dad baby brain) head, but I think something along these lines could work in theory at least.
Very interesting.
Thanks, William. How did you get on with the decoder?
Everything worked out fine. I now have the Class 47 and a Bachmann Class 20 now fitted with TTS decoders.
I am wondering about fitting lights to this class 20, and the Hornby Class 31 TTS. Have I the nerve?
William Glover Great news re the decoders! Buying an express models lighting kit (if they do one for those models) cuts out a lot of the fiddly prep work (albeit not always all), but they are around £15 each I think. Let me know how you get on 👍🏻
And yet another damn fine video. I was wondering during the video why you didn't drill and use smaller LEDS. Hmm prototypical huh. Still nice to see what those other wires are for. I don't think you can get away with a short video with the type of conversation you are doing. Still another good one cheers. Looking forward to number 3.....oh can we see the locomotive running when you are finished?
Many thanks, Guy. Much appreciated.
Yes, for the headcode and headlights, you could probably get away with non-smd LEDs in some circumstances, but the fit is not always quite right and I try not to drill new holes unless I absolutely need to as I've sometimes ended up making a mess of things.
If I can use existing openings with miniature LEDs, that's what I tend to try to do - but it does take longer and can be quite fiddly. You also tend to get 'normal' LEDs in 5mm, 3mm and 1.8mm (tower) sizes, which isn't always ideal, as they tend to be slightly too big.
But, if you're not bothered about being absolutely prototypical, which is totally fine as everyone has different properties in their modelling, then they can be a much simpler and easier option.
I probably won't have enough progress on the layout to have the loco running on that, but I'll set up an oval so I can run it properly. I've not been a huge fan of Lima's since moving on my childhood ones, but now I've spent so much time on this one, I'm getting a soft spot for it! I still don't like traction tyres, though... 😉
@@StrathpefferJunction hense why my Australian based lima class 44s/930s have athearn sd9 mechs under the bodies. Same with my lima gm class bodies for traction and also due to not like traction tyres
I use liquid solder paste and a hot air gun for SMT soldering
I did wonder about that. I have a hot air station, but have never tried using paste for this. I was mainly put off by the cost of the paste. Do you have a good supplier reasonably priced?
i use easy print syringes and this stuff it does last a while as i only use it for very fine work XG-50 Liquid Solder Paste and www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMD-Easy-Print-Solder-Paste-SN62-Pb36-Ag2-8g-1-4ml/161790037078?epid=1842305652&hash=item25ab700c56:g:8AUAAOSw95lbFXch:rk:1:pf:0
M thanks. I'll definitely look into it 👍🏻
These series of videos are great for upgrading those trusty Lima locos, can't wait to get my class 31's into a similar upgraded state. May I ask where you obtain your wired SMD LEDs from please?
Hi Simon. Many thanks for your comment; I'm really glad the videos are of use. I get my SMD LEDs from AliExpress. They take two or three weeks to arrive, but they're pretty good value. You can get them from ebay and some seller on there are UK merchants, but the price is normally a lot steeper and for less quantity, but they will arrive a lot quicker. I used 0603 size pre-wired one, but I also have the even smaller 0402 ones, which are handy for making tail lamps etc.
This is a link to the 0402 ones: www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-bag-0402-SMD-Pre-soldered-micro-litz-wired-LED-leads-resistor-20cm-8-15V-Model/32828588727.html
Here's some 0603 ones: www.aliexpress.com/item/20Pcs-T0603WM-Pre-soldered-micro-litz-wired-leads-Warm-White-SMD-Led-0603-New/32846959352.html
Thanks for the links, I'll obtain some of these. And then beef up the resistors a little as well. Did you get them from the same place?
I think I got the resistors from RS electronics in the UK, but I honestly can't remember. For this sort of usage, most sources will probably be ok. Tolerance isn't too much of an issue for this application.