Im a mini tech and ive logged more engine rebuilds and timing chain jobs than most other techs. The single handedly worst thing i see customers do is use 87 gasoline instead of 93. Mini coopers specifically call for a high grade fuel. They are direct injection engines and they build up carbon insainly quickly. 93 will reduce that. You have no idea how many minis i get in with low compression misfire, with a corner of one of the exhaust valve burnt up. DONT USE CHEAP GAS FOR THE LOVE OF GOD IF YOU WANT YOUR R56 TO LIVE!
I always used 93 from top tier gas. I only have 56K during last 5 years and already replaced radiator, refrigerant cooler , smokes like diesel, electrical lighting issues.
dnfwme what caused you to replace radiator and condencer? Those have no relation to the engine other tgan maybe a bad head gasket causing sludge to build up in the radiator which can be flushed. And the condencer has no relationship whatsoever to the engine, just the ac compressor is bolted down to the engine but there is no interchanging of liquids etc. Were they leaking??
Gregory Bennett i was mainly refering to r56 turbo n14 engines. The r53 n11 supercharged engines are far superior in reliability in my opinion. I love them both though
Gregory Bennett i would refrain from using race fuel in a stock mini engine. Those stock mini s's have around 8.3:1 CR and you will actually make less power on race fuel as there isnt quite enough compression to use it. A higher octane fuel will burn cooler and slower which will is why race engines run so high of compression. Ive done many stroker n11 engines and have made over 450whp on pump gas. Id stick with 93 if i were you for your stock applications.
Yep I agree. A well documented service history would be at the top of requirements when buying one. I have noticed that the n18 does seem more reliable so 2011 or newer for those.
I just learned this the hard way recently! Heard this rattling death noise and thought it was the dreaded timing chain death noise. It is my first mini and the dipstick really isn’t the best per say. I ended up being 2 quarts low and thankfully was smart enough not to drive on it the minute that rattling started. Decided to drop my oil out and add a quart of Lucas high mileage plus the 3quarts needed and the engine has been burning less and little bit better performance. I now check weekly my oil levels!
Just for a different point of view, I’ve owned my R56 07 for 6 years now, I drive it like a stole it everyday and have had no major issues. Only regular Maintenance like clutch, breaks, oil change, struts. Only problem I’ve had was a small oil leak from a line going to the turbo that I changed out in my garage. I believe too many people buy these cars and drive them too slow... they’re direct injection, drive it like a race car and you’ll never have a valve build up. Better yet instead of walnut blasting take a crews riding near redline for a half hour that will clear your valves. People can say what they want but my R56 has had the least problems out of all the cars In my family. Through winter and summer this thing is a beast, they do shred through oil though. 6 years going on 7.
I agree completely these cars were not meant to be babied I drive it like I stole it to never had any issues put on an AEM cold air intake and an oil catch can only mods I have 158000 km runs great winter and summer
My friend has a 2002 Mini Cooper (R50) and when he bought the car, he initially experienced a bit of a lazy engine performance compared to normal. After research, he came to a conclusion, that he needs to rev it more. He took it for a trip, revving the engine to the red line occasionaly. And indeed after a short time the performance improved dramatically as the carbon, which had build up was burned by just revving the engine more. I now own a Mini One R56 and since it has a 6-speed transmission, it can be driven at low revs quite often. But as you said, you drive like you stole it. I try to clear that carbon regularly by driving occasionaly at higher revs, for example during a speedy acceleration at from traffic lights.
I hope you do not mind but can i add to things you should pay attention to ? After owning my cooper s for a few years and doing all work myself i can safely say major things to pay attention to are #1, Thermostat housing. # 2, water pipe ( hidden by thermostat housing and under air filter box ) # 3, water pump ( dirt cheap and easy to replace while doing water pipe and thermostat ) # 4, auxiliary oil pump ( notorious for leaks ) # 5 , oil cooler ( easy to change while doing auxiliary oil pump ) # 6, turbo inlet hose (number 1 thing to be inspected and replaced, oil leaking on a hot turbo is a big no no ) # 7 , check your shock towers for any deformation, if presrnt invest in high quality strut tower defenders. The strut towers are inherently weak and after enough miles will start to mushroom and deform causing tracking issues. I highly suggest the version made by madness motorworks because it actually corrects and fixes the problem by going over the shock top, but under the strut tower. Instead of being a collar that goes on top. # 7, inspect your spark plugs religiously. Due to oiling issues you may get wet plugs every now and then. # 8, inspect your ignition coils. And finally # 9, if your car starts to smoke on startup or under acceleration then you have the dreaded valve stem seal replacement job in your future. But if you need to buy some time. Replace your oil with 10w 40. It will stop the smoking for a while and allow you to save up to fix the issue, since it is pricey now due to the $1000 mini tool no longer readily available at shops. Sorry for the book, but i hope this helps some people. Btw keep up the vids you are helping alot of people out with these cars
are you meaning the turbo oil feed pipe ontop of the centre assembly... if so I'd agree with this as I've only just replaced mine for a stainless flexible hose, the OEM item is a waste of space.
Mal P yes exactly. There was an issue with this tube from the start, and now many other companies sell a repair kit that include all piping and proper washers, DO NOT REUSE the original brass washers. They are one time use and if used again will leak. Detroit tuning sells a great kit if i recall correctly, that even includes the shielding for it
dantediss1 I just used Amazon to get the oil line, the original heat shield "pointless as it is" still fits & I've added extra shielding to the rear of the cat hear shield & to the new oil line to help reduce temps alittle
I just took the plunge after driving hundreds of miles looking at mini's. I bought a 2011 in amazing condition. The owner is buying a new one Thanks Dude!
Thank you for making these videos man. I found out after I bought my mini how unreliable they are. I wish I watched your videos before I bought, but I’m in love with it now, and I’m glad I can come here and learn how to properly care for it. Really puts my mind at ease.
Thanks for a well done video. I'm a 75 year old widow totally in love with my 2010 Mini. Love the stick shift. Already had a leaking oil issue, but all is fixed. I was browsing videos because my "bonnet" is stuck shut and the latch won't work. Anyway, I enjoyed your talk.
It took a seasoned older mechanic to sort the issues on my 2007 Cooper S Clubman. I bought it at 3 yrs old with a year's warranty and I loved it - for a week until it broke down. To cut a long story short by the end of my 12 months warranty the dealer had a file 1" thick with what had been repaired/replaced and for every week it was on the road it spent another in service. Poor performance, stalling, flat spots, backfires, pinking, rattling etc etc. Engine was dismantled 3 times.. it took a letter to Mini UK near the end of my warranty saying that there were still ongoing issues and that I wanted their assurance they would continue to sort them at no cost to me that I got it looked it by someone fresh who knew what they were doing. It turned out there's a valve which purges the combustion chamber of gases when accelating hard - the tank vent valve. It had a fault which no one else had picked up. Since that day - 50,000 trouble free miles. Sometimes experience prevails over a plug in diagnostic.....
A catch can is really worth while, I fitted one to my Cooper S with N14 engine about 2 years ago and in that time it’s collected half a pint of brown liquid that would have gone down the intake and onto the valves. Very satisfied......
In my 2 years of working in an auto shop I have NEVER had anyone come in wanting to fix anything on their mini. At most it's been a routine oil change. I'm in love with these cars. and I will buy one once I have a stable job. I've never known them to have any issues
@@Osprey1994 Yeah, owners will tell you to buy a late model R53. They had most of the kinks worked out by then. The R56 N14 engine was a complete disaster and gave Minis a bad name for reliability. Don't confuse them though.
Is gree with everyone here. If you're gonna buy a Mini (which I plan to) get a 2005-'06 model. The late model cars got the upgraded teflon Eaton M42 Eaton supercharger, bigger brakes, too many internal parts for me to even mention them all (crankshaft, camshaft, valves, gaskets, lifters, springs, etc. All changed) these upgrades bring a slight boost in power, and a ton of reliability.
It's a car. NO matter what brand you buy, you need to maintain it. Check your oil, use at least 91 octane, some states that is as high as it gets. But do not be cheap. Also remember now at MINI they use 0W30 as their oil. I have mine changed other places. I love my MINI and will buy another one next year. Maintainence is the KEY.
Well done video my friend. I'm a MINI fan and I understand that with some cars "special attention" is just part of the quaintness of owning the car. BUT there is no excuse for weak areas that go on for decades like the timing chain and fuel pump. These should be an embarrassment to the company and shows a lack of respect for their customers. And at the very least...the engineers at the company should have trouble sleeping at night.
My N18 (Non-S) is at 154k miles and still going strong. Yes, it's had some thermostat issues and vanos solenoids replaced....but, the engine still purrs. 😉👍
These cars can be expensive to keep and maintain but as long as you keep up on said maintenance they can actually be pretty reliable and loads of fun to drive. If you're looking for something cheap and easy to maintain, you're looking at the wrong car. If you're looking for a street legal go kart and don't mind working on it yourself, then it just may be the right car for you. I have an R52 convertible and it's my daily. It's good on gas even though it runs on premium and tires are reasonably priced. I do most of the maintenance myself and just did the oil and spark plugs a few days ago. A few months back I got the AC up and running myself after it being down for over a year as I slid into a ditch last year and damaged the condenser and tore an AC line behind it. Before I moved from New York to Florida I had my mechanic give it a once over to make sure it was suitable for s road trip and advised I replace the passenger control arm and some bushings and ball joints on the driver side along with the radiator and radiator support as those were damaged from my ditch diving accident. I had him replace control arms, bushings, and ball joints on both sides and he did show me everything it needed while it was on the lift. Overall, I love this car, regardless of how much maintenance it needs. It's part of owning a car. They do use a lot of cheap plastic which can make repairing difficult and expensive as dealerships charge an absurd amount for parts alone. But with good maintenance and a watchful eye, owning one of these cars can be a lot of fun. If you want to learn more about fixing these cars, more specifically the R56 Cooper S, check out Eric The Car Guy's channel. He recently acquired one of these cars and has done a handful of detailed repair videos on it.
Hell yeah they are fun little go karts!!! surprised me just how fast they are for being so tiny and with their rep. My kid wanted one because they were "cute" but she has no license and my car's alternator belt tensioner lost a part on the freeway so I have been driving her mini and it is not bad at all. It's just the base auto too. Makes want to "borrow" a supped up 5 speed......that must be fun on the curves. 8-) hashahahahahahaha
I’ve had to replace my lower control arm bushings, water pump pulley (was about to detonate), drive belt, coolant hose from thermostat, solenoid harness, cylinder head gasket. All a week or so after buying it. Make sure you have a mini professional check out any mini you are looking at before buying it. Wish I did, but now I love this car.
I love my Mini Cooper s. I have been changing my oil every 3500-4000 miles and I have not had any issues. I have had my mini for 2 years and put about 40 miles on it. I really love this car.
One thing I had a problem with is weather stripping. But I live in hot California and my car is black, so it melted somewhat the weathering strip on my car. I got a car cover and hope to never have this problem again.
I agree completely on the code reader. Mine has saved me a lot of headaches and money. The other 4 things you mentioned, while are nice to do, aren't essential. I've never walnut blasted my car nor do I have a catch can, and I only change my oil every 7000 miles, but with all of that being said, my r56 s is at 235,000 miles and it's had a stage 1 tune since 60,000. In its lifetime, I have replaced one hpfp(early in its lifetime...like 50,000), a thermostat housing....or two, a timing chain(under warranty...so that had to be really early in its lifetime), a valve cover, a clutch(my choosing), a catalytic converter(also my choosing), the exhaust side on the turbo(damn waste gate flapper), and basic things such as seals and such. After experimenting a lot and watching other friend's cars break I can tell you what worked for me. 1.) Keep your oil topped off. Oil changes are cool and all but please keep it topped off. Chains inevitably stretch but why help it out. 2.) Don't beat on your car with low gas. I personally stop beating on my car when it gets to a 1/4 tank. If you want to take the risk of burning up your hpfp, then by all means continue to beat on it, but I wouldn't advise. 3.) Use 93 please. The IAT temperatures in this car are already high enough with the stock intercooler...why chance your engine with lower octane fuel? I get it that its cheaper but gas is much cheaper than an engine and install....that I can promise you. This leads me to my next point. 4.) Go ahead and splurge and by yourself an aftermarket intercooler. You know how nice it is to beat on a car and not have a worry in the world about detonation/pinging. It's beautiful I tell ya. If you can ever get a scan gauge and look at your IAT temps when you are just sitting in traffic it will blow your mind. This leads me to point 5. 5.) Get a scan gauge or something to read info. Why did MINI not install a water temp gauge on this car is beyond me. Go ahead and give yourself a way to prevent your engine from taking a poop on you when your plastic thermostat housing cracks(because it will) and starts leaking all of your coolant out. I caught my first housing leak because my temps were just creeping and I didn't know why. My scan gauge is my best friend. 6.) Last one...this one may seem silly but I have a sneaky feeling that this thought, although an in theory type of thought, has saved my car a lot of headache. Get yourself a cold air intake...I personally have the a ddm race intake because I think sealed boxes are better but get whatever you want. My theory behind this mod is that by getting you one of these puppies, you can save your catalytic converter from an inevitable death due to these cars running so damn rich. Don't worry about running lean...your MAF won't let you run lean enough to blow anything up so why not allow your turbocharger system to be more efficient? Although this last thing isn't a necessity, I will say it definitely helps.....DRIVE THE FREAKING CAR! PLEASE! Direct injection engines don't like to babied(i.e. valve coking issues). Save yourself a walnut blast or two and just actually get on it sometimes. Rev it out every now and then....i swear, it won't hurt it.
Andre Jones what kind of intake could I get for a 2015 Paceman S? I’m not sure what’s compatible with the Paceman S engine so your help would be greatly appreciated. If you can a link to one would be so amazing! Thank you for all the other tips man. Really great stuff to know right after getting my first Mini.
Wow..Thank You! 🙏🏽 Thank You! saved me. gonna get air box..did a K&N drop in but you feel more is needed....gonna get intercooler too. Ordered a a scan tool because of Bimmer dude, a few minutes ago. was down a quart from the guy i bought it from -- now i keep a quart in the car. Won't use cheap 93 ever Again. ---Thx first your addition!!!!!!!!
What scan tool do you recommend? I was thinking about getting a BlueDriver. What are you using for code checking and real-time measurements of temp and what not? Also, what intercooler do you recommend?
I have a 2010 Mini Cooper S I bought the cold air AEM intake and the bluedriver scan tool works great use it all the time canadian-made well worth the $99 the cold air intake is between five and seven hundred bucks depending on where you buy it hope this helps you out
I've just got a 2009 Mini Cooper s. it had already been moded. And I know the guy took care of it but these videos are a great help thanks for taking the time out of your life to make them. They are appreciated.
I pulled the engine on my 07 R56 S. It's a mess. It all started with a broken (plastic) water pipe in the rear of the engine. I caught it before it broke completely and ruined my engine. Now I'm waiting for the machine shop to return the engine to me. I've made some mods, replaced every high wear part, rebuilt the transmission, axels, clutch, brakes, adding gauges and an n18 oil pump. What is a killer issue is finding good information on some of the more tech and obscure issues with the car. I've had to bother a lot of people, the dealer is useless, and even ex-mini techs don't know everything. So common sense, research, and listening to people who have fixed many issues successfully is the only way to keep on track.
Going against my best judgment, but because I’m a car guy and we never forget our first car…I”m going to go look at a 15 R60 Mini Cooper S Countryman All4 today for my sons first car. It’s crazy, but it’s actually a financial decision besides the fun factor because in my area used cars go real high for common cars while they actually do not have that “actual” value in them so if I can get this deal done it will be a GREAT deal. If it works out, my son and I will dive deep into learning together and it will be good father son bonding experience. Thanks for the video, I’ve owned a RX8 so a little extra car really does bond the owner with the car.
2007 mini S 120,000 miles runs absolutely like new. Ams Oil only oil I ever used in it. Change oil every 12,000 miles. Never had an issue. Only issue is now the POS passenger airbag sensor. Way to go Beamer.
I was thinking about getting a R60 JCW Countryman with N18 motor. But after researching about it, I learned a lot but decided not to get a Mini. One major thing to add to preventative maintenance is the replace the turbo oil feed line with OEM or an aftermarket upgraded stainless steel braided line to prevent turbo failure.
What you say is reasonable and true and applies to all the vehicles. Mine an Audi A3 TDI from 1997 has now 657.000 kilometers on the speedometer. I'm a bit surprised at the frequent oil change at about 3,000 till 3,500 miles for a gasoline engine...God bless you !
Great content as well as comments. Thanks for all the info. Just purchased a Mini Cooper and truly dig the ride but just as much, need the insight on how to keep it that way. Thanks again.
I own a 2008 R56 S, and man i sure have ran into problems. However my car does have lots of miles and the previous owners were not too kind to the car. So, all im going to say is that my mini is so much fun and i love it to death, but it sure does have problems and expensive ones. Keeping the oil up is the best tip I'd give.
On our 3rd mini, first turbo and first used one though. Never had any problems with the previous 2 but my wife drove them and only put a couple hundred miles per month on them and had the service covered at the dealership as part of a promotion on both. Really appreciate your videos and plan to follow your advice on the walnut blast and oil catch can. Start saving for the fuel pump as well.
The build up comes from the the direct injection design. Remove your crank ventilation line from the intake recycling system. A catch can is a must. You can also use B12 or Sea-foam or Lucas fuel injection cleaner. A catch can and one of these three components will remove the vapors. Thanks for information.
My Mini Cooper S is a beast. 2003 Cooper s , blue , 2 door , 6 speed, I only use PREMIUM HIGH GRADE FUEL in my Cooper. My car is the best, I only give it the best!!
Funny enough as I watch this video my mini is currently sitting in my garage with a smoked fuel pump. I don't drive it very often just a Sunday cruise around ride went to start it a couple days ago and it was just dead not getting fuel what so ever, the hours I have clocked wrenching on it are quite a lot. That moment you hit those back roads chewing through turns zipping along makes it all worth it!
My 3rd German car. First 2 were VW Siroccos, '84 &'86. Both used and paid cash. When I bought my '84 Scirocco, I drove into first garage while test driving before buying. Mechanic was willing to drive and give me advice. "These are great cars if you take care of them. Highest octane fuel at all times, the right oil, at this time 30w Castrol, 4 cylinder "duh". Oil change 5 thousand miles. No additives whatsoever." I never told him my first car was a '58 Morris Minor that I worked on myself. My '84 Scirocco ran like a dream! Was side swiped and totalled. My "86 was the same. Almost 200,000 miles when I sold. It ran and looked new. I felt ill selling it at 1,000 over book value. Well, parts became obsolete after that. My Mini Cooper 2011 non S stick shift has 51,000 now after 6 years owning. Again, second owner, paid cash. I use 5x30w %100 synthetic Castrol(owners manual)says.I still remember that young mechanic's advice. Thank you for for this video and advice!
Wow I got lucky buying my Cooper S 06 R53. Not many issues Ive had yet. The water pump leaked and I caught it before the warranty time line. Recently As of 2018 I have changed the Rotors fixed a small leak in the rad system with filler that plugged the small leak. Also I had to replace the oil check fiber dip stick. Other stuff like tires, brakes, front head lights and oil changes of course. It has a few nicks from road rocks and a few curb scratches on the rims. I am thankful and lucky to have this vehicle. Saddly I maybe selling soon
Hey Bimmer dude, I have experienced these issues first hand. My fuel Pump went bad, I had the p300 -304 codes, I changed it out myself, using your video, I did end up making a tool to remove the connector, just took 90 degree pliers and taped ball bearings on the pinch points, it worked. I just bought the Catch can, just need to get the hoses, connectors and clamps. Now I did not do the walnut blast, I went a cheaper route. Have you heard of CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner? I used it, it is a 2 person job, since you have to have someone keeping your RPMs up, but it was pretty easy and I did see a gain in MPG and HP. You are my go to guy on my mini. Thanks for the info
Yessss I'm so glad you mentioned the oil catch can! I was changing out the thermostat housing and the water pipe and found that there was oil on the intake where it mounted to the block. I'm fairly new to all the technical maintenance (such as why there is oil on my intake rings) and you've helped me clear that up. I found that prices were around $150 on ecs tuning and mini mania?
Great video, love my R56 and already have the kit to change the turbo oil feed / return lines. I’m a little nervous but your videos give me confidence thanks man ❤
Great video! Unfortunately I was uneducated and bought a Mini Cooper S Clubman from an unknown source and the engine blew 3 months later 🙄. I’ve decided to sell it as opposed to spending the $$$ to fix it... which is a bummer because after driving it for 3 months, I def have the Mini big! So fun to drive. I will buy another someday, but definitely from one owner who took meticulous care of it before me.
I'm purchasing my first MINI this week!!! 2013 Mini Cooper S Manual with about 63k on it :) I'm excited!!! Subscribed and I'll check out your videos!!!
Thanks for the advice. I just had the walnut blast done, but didn’t think of the out catch can. Having 3 new Mini’s all advice is welcome. Lastly my Mini’s don’t us ease much oil between changes compared to my 2000 New Beetle GLS, 1998 Jetta or my 1994 Golf. Those vehicles we had to really check every other fuel fill. I religiously change my oil in all three Mini’s at 5k no matter what the driving conditions. That is about 2 k more than you suggested, but I never go over. BTW 2 hp fuel pumps in my 2011 S. Luckily both were warrant and the car has only 54k on it. Next move is the oil catch can upgrade. I dig your videos and please don’t stop. I know some friends who follow but haven’ t found the like button! Doug w/3 Mini’s and 1 63 Mini Super deluxe in restoration
06 owner here with a gripe about the poor engineering of the power steering system. Mine is out once again! Learning more and more about the car that I love to drive but it’s a fine line between money and love.
I jjinxed myself. Last week I said last week my Mini has never had an issue, 85.5k miles, even got compliments on it at a Mini dealership how clean and well maintained it was. Today it threw a code and went into limp mode. P054B, camshaft position timing over retarded. Its been a rough winter in Colorado and I'm worried its timing chain, or something to do with the guide on camshaft B, which i believe runs the exhaust valves. 2012 Countryman S All4
I'll second the valve cleaning. I had my mini completely disabled by the valve's getting too much carbon build up. It is an issue with all direct injected cars as the intake doesn't get the fuel scouring that a port injected car would get, the catch can mod should help with the carbon build up in the intake. If you're doing a water pump you should probably replace the pump with a metal one Febi has a good one. In addition to the HPFP failing the vacuum pump can also fail and should be replaced before it does so it doesn't kill the engine as the normal failure mode is for it to seize and it's locked to the cams.
Maybe I am just lucky but my 2012 JCW R56 now has 80000 km and never had any issues. First Timing Chain (late version of the N18 engine with less issues) , first Clutch etc... I really recommend using at least 5w40 oil. I change oil, oil filter and air filter 2 times a year.
Great info. I appreciate your vids! I reluctantly bought my second R56(2008) knowing about some of these issues with my 07(HPFP and walnut blasting) however finding your channel gives me some comfort that I can better maintain this car more affordably and do some of the maintenance on my own and/find a tech who will do it at a fraction of the dealership cost. I've got a couple questions I hope you can answer: Which AOS do you recommend and where to source it? and, I have an issue with the driver side window where it doesn't retract downward far enough upon opening the door whereby causing an issue when closing the door. I usually have to close the door and apply a little pressure on the topside of the window to tuck it under the door frame. hopefully that made sense :) Thanks again for taking the time to create your videos! BTW, I ordered my HPFP last week thanks to your video I will be installing it myself. Mine was on the way out.
I bought my 2008 R56 MCS back in mid July this year. In the last 3 months I've essentially bankrupt myself in getting new parts for it and getting it how I like it. It currently has 200,000Km on the clock which is a LOT I know but! I only payed €4500 for it. ( I live in Ireland, these cars are quite rare, especially ones that aren't an awful gold color ) So far, I've had it serviced ( oil, oil filter, air filter and iridium plugs), I've had the rocker cover gasket changed, Timing chain and guides replaced ( thankfully no damage to the timing, just a broken guide ), Oil filter housing seals, Brake pads and disks front and rear and I've had to get rear left caliper changed, I've also had an aftermarket custom exhaust made, got my windows tinted and got brand new €600 Borbet wheels for it and so far I'm up to a total of €9000 including the car with mech fees and whatever. So although it has taken me 3 months to finally have the car to a point that it drives smooth with no knocks or rattles and it feels like I've spent hours wasting my time and worrying, I've only spent about €1000 more than what it would cost to buy a 2008 MCS with 130,000-150,000Km. Which in my eyes isn't so bad considering they have an awful reputation for reliability. Thankfully in Ireland, petrol stations don't sell anything bar 95 octane petrol so hopefully the carbon buildup isn't the worst. ANYWAYS sorry for rambling, if there are any long term MCS owners watching this video who happens to read this comment, what experiences did you have with your car? I'd love to hear other peoples stories with their favorite love/hate relationship haha, or even if you guys have any advice for me in future on what I should do to keep this car for another 10 years!
Owned an r53 since new, 2005. Only owner. Other than a few issues fixed under warranty, the car has been fine, engine is still strong. Now, I have had some issues that I've had to throw money towards but that's usually due to the fact that I've had alot of aftermarket work done. Most recently I had to change both O2 sensors and replace my aftermarket cat because i thought the codes thrown were something i had encountered before and wasn't a issue. I should have checked because it ended up being my o2 was bad and burned so rich that my cat and both o2 were so sooty my engine kept shutting down in eml limp mode. It was totally my fault. Had I kept my car stock I would have spent a lot less money on thr car through out the years haha. A lot of people look at these cars as "cute" little cars but they soon realize these are NOT beginners cars. I've been able to keep my MINI running so long because I'm METICULOUS about maintenance and checking on different sounds and things i notice. If you are thinking this is going to be a cute little car to own and think it's going to be a car you can just drive and drive and drive like a Honda, then you should probably look the other way. I guess I only say this because I love my car and its hard for me to think there are tons of MINI owners out there who have no idea how to take care of a car like this.
First of all, I only came across your channel the other week and cannot thank you enough for the high pressure fuel pump replacement video, BMW quoted me around £1200 and I did it myself for £350 after watching your video so thank you so much. My question is that I had my engine ‘carbon cleaned’ about 6 months ago. Is this the same service you talked about when you mentioned the walnut blast? I have had so many issues with my r56 and and just sick of wasting money on it but I still love it so much! Thanks again
@@BimmerDude WAIT--- my dealer tried to sell me on a Carbon Clean something... is this the same thing??? cost seems lower than you're suggesting.... they were asking $270... and it was a dealer. SECOND question.... I know not much about cars at all--- this carbon cleaning... if my 2015 Engine was just replaced (new)... shouldn't I wait a while for that treatment? BY THE WAY - great video -- you seem really genuine in your delivery and content. (fellow Texan).
Thanks for the good info! Will definitely do those things you mentioned to my wife's mini. Funny you mention oil consumption on the RX7. Since mine has that problem. Lol
RX7 oil consumption is not a "problem" that you can avoid. It is a built in function in the rotary engine as a way of lubricating the rotor. If you don't regularly check the oil and fill it up (as well as changing the oil filter and oil, don't just think you can fill it up, you need to change it just as regularly as you do on piston engines, if not more), if you don't regularly make sure you have a good oil level the engine will eventually run dry and seize.
So far my 2013 r56 jcw has been running amazingly (it's not my profile pic, that is my old r53 s) aside from getting into a fender bender because the other driver didn't have their headlights on. I do have a few tips for detailing the car though: 1. Buy some plastic trim restorer especially if you live in a hot state because over time the black plastic fenders and splitter turn grey and faded. I use the meguiars ultimate back to black spray. It's just like spraying paint 2. Wipe down the plastic in the engine bay. I've noticed the engine bay can full of dust faster than some other hot hatches so you definitely wanna wipe down the plastic covers as the extra dust can generate a little more heat inside and these n18 and n14 already run pretty hot. 3. Get the weather tech mats, they are so much easier to clean then the carpet that comes stand down below but that should be a general car tip 4. Tint the windows if you live down south. The upper half of all modern minis from r53 onward all have a ton of glass up top. In summer here in Florida it gets stupid hot to the point where I don't even wanna drive my mini sometimes with if it bakes in the sun too long. Some window tints come with heat shield to help prevent that and I highly recommend doing that so your car is a little cooler in the summer. I love this little hatchback and appreciate this video heavily. I never realized how much caring for these cars is similar to caring for a rotary even though in my family in total we have had 5 rx-7s (1 EB, 2 FCs and a FD)
Getting my 09 clubman s this week. Thanks for saying that a catch can is a good investment. I will be getting that as first mod. FYI the do sell the blaster adapter and is a nice tool to have. Able to knock off 90%+ of the intake crap off. As well as not as messy.
1. List the changes 2. Talk about the changes 1 by 1 3. Reiterate the changes 4. Smash the like. 👍💪 Thank you for the info, I'm coming back to the Mini family.
Haha the oil consumption is fun stuff... the diesel one with the N47 engine in the UK eats no oil for me... I may have filled up like half a liter over a year... which is normal for newer Diesel engines... due to manufacturer efforts to improve fuel consumption figures by loosening valve guides...etc
I had lots of problems with my Mini Moke back in the day, but I've always wanted another Mini. I'm going to avoid all these problems by going with the electric Mini Cooper S E.
Wow! 🤯🤯🤣🤣😱Too wordy. I guess I’ve been blessed, cause the only thing that I’ve had a problem so far with is the drivers seat and I’ve seen TH-cam videos fixing the too reclined problem on the seat and I will try it tomorrow! But really man🤯you’re wayyyyy toooooo wordy!
I just got my 2011 jcw with 116k, only had it 1x month and did timing job just to be safe , ko04 f21 and full support mods and custom tune and lol now I need to replace my clutch so I ordered a new flywheel and stage 3x 6x puck clutch
Thanks for these videos.. I just recently picked up a 2013 r55 with a JCW tuning kit. Although the car looked to be well maintained, I will be adding a catch can soon.
Preventive maintenance does extend cars and like u said use Lucas injector cleaner the additives definitely help too and sea foam those things keep u from spending big bucks
Thanks man my wife wants one of these things and she dosent even know how to inflate a tire and i cant convince her otherwise about the burden these cars are if your not mechanically inclined now im trying to get as much knowledge about these cars as possible because im gonna be doing most of the work and probably none of the driving so im trying to see if i can toyota swap everything in these cars take iut the engine take out the transmission and put a fuel cell in it and chip it is that possible
Wife loves her R60 S All4 but never knows when it will fail to start or throw the CEL. We do know that MINI will replace a failed HPFP under a silent recall 👍
Thank you for such an informative video....I was just thinking that some sort of filter to catch blowby would be great,didn't even know about the catch can you mentioned...just put in my order !
Here in germany we have Carly as an OBD adapter and app, which is the most extensive app available, you can also code alot of options that you dont have in a specific trim, i use a china obd bluetooth connector with DeepOBD which shows all codes with explanation, costs stay around 10€
THIS! I used Carly with a $30 bluetooth OBD module and got rid of the stupid factory speedometer overclock. Here in the U.S it's ridiculous to be clocked 4 mph higher than you are actually traveling. Stupid European traffic laws.
Bro! Your videos are very helpful. I just got a 08 Mini cooper s. I really like the things you did to yours. Keep up the good work on this channel. Thanks for all info!
I tried to Seafoam the engine (not the liquid bottle) the aerosol with the hose from the pcv pipe and the hesitation is gone now. not the best way to remove the carbon but once in while will knock it off. great vids btw
In the two years I’ve owned my N14 R56 JCW I’ve replaced the thermostat housing, half the cooling system, HPFP, spark plugs, O2 sensor, replaced faded rear Mini badge, replaced front chrome trim, replaced cracked antenna. As far as maintenance I’ve done countless oil changes, a walnut blast on the intake valves, coolant flush, several wiper blade replacements and a rear brake job. And now I have an issue where I get limp mode with no codes. Used to only happen in sport mode and now happens in normal mode. Usually it happens when accelerating above 4000 rpm. Also has a rattling noise on cold starts. It will go away after several restarts and some moderate acceleration. Can’t figure this one out. I’m at almost 90k miles now. Next thing thing to do is change out the air filter as it’s past due. I think my next car is going to be an EV. Maybe a Tesla, lol
Im a mini tech and ive logged more engine rebuilds and timing chain jobs than most other techs. The single handedly worst thing i see customers do is use 87 gasoline instead of 93. Mini coopers specifically call for a high grade fuel. They are direct injection engines and they build up carbon insainly quickly. 93 will reduce that. You have no idea how many minis i get in with low compression misfire, with a corner of one of the exhaust valve burnt up. DONT USE CHEAP GAS FOR THE LOVE OF GOD IF YOU WANT YOUR R56 TO LIVE!
I always used 93 from top tier gas. I only have 56K during last 5 years and already replaced radiator, refrigerant cooler , smokes like diesel, electrical lighting issues.
dnfwme what caused you to replace radiator and condencer? Those have no relation to the engine other tgan maybe a bad head gasket causing sludge to build up in the radiator which can be flushed. And the condencer has no relationship whatsoever to the engine, just the ac compressor is bolted down to the engine but there is no interchanging of liquids etc. Were they leaking??
Gregory Bennett i was mainly refering to r56 turbo n14 engines. The r53 n11 supercharged engines are far superior in reliability in my opinion. I love them both though
Gregory Bennett i would refrain from using race fuel in a stock mini engine. Those stock mini s's have around 8.3:1 CR and you will actually make less power on race fuel as there isnt quite enough compression to use it. A higher octane fuel will burn cooler and slower which will is why race engines run so high of compression. Ive done many stroker n11 engines and have made over 450whp on pump gas. Id stick with 93 if i were you for your stock applications.
LSX_ moe I think i’m going to get an used R56 as my first car soon, what should I check before buying it?
As a MINI tech, I can't stress enough to check the oil level regularly ie. when you fill up with gas. Every day I see cars come in 3qts low.
Mike Dizzle thats what really makes buying a used R56 so tough. Finding a good one isnt too easy.
Yep I agree. A well documented service history would be at the top of requirements when buying one. I have noticed that the n18 does seem more reliable so 2011 or newer for those.
I just learned this the hard way recently! Heard this rattling death noise and thought it was the dreaded timing chain death noise. It is my first mini and the dipstick really isn’t the best per say. I ended up being 2 quarts low and thankfully was smart enough not to drive on it the minute that rattling started. Decided to drop my oil out and add a quart of Lucas high mileage plus the 3quarts needed and the engine has been burning less and little bit better performance. I now check weekly my oil levels!
I check my oil once a week to make sure it’s not low 😑
Mike Dizzle This oil stick is designed so unreliable. Pretty much everyone says the same thing. I check it but half the time it isn’t even accurate.
Just for a different point of view, I’ve owned my R56 07 for 6 years now, I drive it like a stole it everyday and have had no major issues.
Only regular Maintenance like clutch, breaks, oil change, struts. Only problem I’ve had was a small oil leak from a line going to the turbo that I changed out in my garage. I believe too many people buy these cars and drive them too slow... they’re direct injection, drive it like a race car and you’ll never have a valve build up. Better yet instead of walnut blasting take a crews riding near redline for a half hour that will clear your valves. People can say what they want but my R56 has had the least problems out of all the cars In my family. Through winter and summer this thing is a beast, they do shred through oil though. 6 years going on 7.
I agree completely these cars were not meant to be babied I drive it like I stole it to never had any issues put on an AEM cold air intake and an oil catch can only mods I have 158000 km runs great winter and summer
Then I wish I had stolen mine!
How tough was replacing the clutch?
That one I didn’t do myself, brought it to a shop
My friend has a 2002 Mini Cooper (R50) and when he bought the car, he initially experienced a bit of a lazy engine performance compared to normal. After research, he came to a conclusion, that he needs to rev it more. He took it for a trip, revving the engine to the red line occasionaly. And indeed after a short time the performance improved dramatically as the carbon, which had build up was burned by just revving the engine more. I now own a Mini One R56 and since it has a 6-speed transmission, it can be driven at low revs quite often. But as you said, you drive like you stole it. I try to clear that carbon regularly by driving occasionaly at higher revs, for example during a speedy acceleration at from traffic lights.
I hope you do not mind but can i add to things you should pay attention to ? After owning my cooper s for a few years and doing all work myself i can safely say major things to pay attention to are
#1, Thermostat housing.
# 2, water pipe ( hidden by thermostat housing and under air filter box )
# 3, water pump ( dirt cheap and easy to replace while doing water pipe and thermostat )
# 4, auxiliary oil pump ( notorious for leaks )
# 5 , oil cooler ( easy to change while doing auxiliary oil pump )
# 6, turbo inlet hose (number 1 thing to be inspected and replaced, oil leaking on a hot turbo is a big no no )
# 7 , check your shock towers for any deformation, if presrnt invest in high quality strut tower defenders. The strut towers are inherently weak and after enough miles will start to mushroom and deform causing tracking issues. I highly suggest the version made by madness motorworks because it actually corrects and fixes the problem by going over the shock top, but under the strut tower. Instead of being a collar that goes on top.
# 7, inspect your spark plugs religiously. Due to oiling issues you may get wet plugs every now and then.
# 8, inspect your ignition coils.
And finally # 9, if your car starts to smoke on startup or under acceleration then you have the dreaded valve stem seal replacement job in your future. But if you need to buy some time. Replace your oil with 10w 40. It will stop the smoking for a while and allow you to save up to fix the issue, since it is pricey now due to the $1000 mini tool no longer readily available at shops.
Sorry for the book, but i hope this helps some people. Btw keep up the vids you are helping alot of people out with these cars
dantediss1 that is a GREAT list ! Thank you for your addition sir!
are you meaning the turbo oil feed pipe ontop of the centre assembly... if so I'd agree with this as I've only just replaced mine for a stainless flexible hose, the OEM item is a waste of space.
Mal P yes exactly. There was an issue with this tube from the start, and now many other companies sell a repair kit that include all piping and proper washers, DO NOT REUSE the original brass washers. They are one time use and if used again will leak. Detroit tuning sells a great kit if i recall correctly, that even includes the shielding for it
dantediss1 I just used Amazon to get the oil line, the original heat shield "pointless as it is" still fits & I've added extra shielding to the rear of the cat hear shield & to the new oil line to help reduce temps alittle
SO IF IM GETTING A CODE OF PO597 IS THAT URGENT TO CHANGE IT NOW
I just took the plunge after driving hundreds of miles looking at mini's. I bought a 2011 in amazing condition. The owner is buying a new one
Thanks Dude!
Do you still have the 2011? I can buy a 2011 in great condition for $3,000 but it has 170,000 miles on it? You have any problems with yours?
Thank you for making these videos man. I found out after I bought my mini how unreliable they are. I wish I watched your videos before I bought, but I’m in love with it now, and I’m glad I can come here and learn how to properly care for it. Really puts my mind at ease.
Thanks for a well done video. I'm a 75 year old widow totally in love with my 2010 Mini. Love the stick shift. Already had a leaking oil issue, but all is fixed. I was browsing videos because my "bonnet" is stuck shut and the latch won't work. Anyway, I enjoyed your talk.
It took a seasoned older mechanic to sort the issues on my 2007 Cooper S Clubman.
I bought it at 3 yrs old with a year's warranty and I loved it - for a week until it broke down.
To cut a long story short by the end of my 12 months warranty the dealer had a file 1" thick with what had been repaired/replaced and for every week it was on the road it spent another in service.
Poor performance, stalling, flat spots, backfires, pinking, rattling etc etc.
Engine was dismantled 3 times..
it took a letter to Mini UK near the end of my warranty saying that there were still ongoing issues and that I wanted their assurance they would continue to sort them at no cost to me that I got it looked it by someone fresh who knew what they were doing.
It turned out there's a valve which purges the combustion chamber of gases when accelating hard - the tank vent valve.
It had a fault which no one else had picked up.
Since that day - 50,000 trouble free miles.
Sometimes experience prevails over a plug in diagnostic.....
A catch can is really worth while, I fitted one to my Cooper S with N14 engine about 2 years ago and in that time it’s collected half a pint of brown liquid that would have gone down the intake and onto the valves.
Very satisfied......
only if you have normal mini not mini s which isn't fuel injected
In my 2 years of working in an auto shop I have NEVER had anyone come in wanting to fix anything on their mini. At most it's been a routine oil change.
I'm in love with these cars. and I will buy one once I have a stable job. I've never known them to have any issues
If you're going to get a Mini, get a R53. Specially a 2005-2006. Much better cars than the R56.
Yet everyone else says they have problems... I'll take an owners word or the word out a Mini technician.
@@Osprey1994 Yeah, owners will tell you to buy a late model R53. They had most of the kinks worked out by then. The R56 N14 engine was a complete disaster and gave Minis a bad name for reliability. Don't confuse them though.
Is gree with everyone here.
If you're gonna buy a Mini (which I plan to) get a 2005-'06 model.
The late model cars got the upgraded teflon Eaton M42 Eaton supercharger, bigger brakes, too many internal parts for me to even mention them all (crankshaft, camshaft, valves, gaskets, lifters, springs, etc. All changed) these upgrades bring a slight boost in power, and a ton of reliability.
Save your money
It's a car. NO matter what brand you buy, you need to maintain it. Check your oil, use at least 91 octane, some states that is as high as it gets. But do not be cheap. Also remember now at MINI they use 0W30 as their oil. I have mine changed other places. I love my MINI and will buy another one next year. Maintainence is the KEY.
Well done video my friend. I'm a MINI fan and I understand that with some cars "special attention" is just part of the quaintness of owning the car. BUT there is no excuse for weak areas that go on for decades like the timing chain and fuel pump. These should be an embarrassment to the company and shows a lack of respect for their customers. And at the very least...the engineers at the company should have trouble sleeping at night.
My N18 (Non-S) is at 154k miles and still going strong. Yes, it's had some thermostat issues and vanos solenoids replaced....but, the engine still purrs. 😉👍
These cars can be expensive to keep and maintain but as long as you keep up on said maintenance they can actually be pretty reliable and loads of fun to drive. If you're looking for something cheap and easy to maintain, you're looking at the wrong car. If you're looking for a street legal go kart and don't mind working on it yourself, then it just may be the right car for you. I have an R52 convertible and it's my daily. It's good on gas even though it runs on premium and tires are reasonably priced. I do most of the maintenance myself and just did the oil and spark plugs a few days ago. A few months back I got the AC up and running myself after it being down for over a year as I slid into a ditch last year and damaged the condenser and tore an AC line behind it. Before I moved from New York to Florida I had my mechanic give it a once over to make sure it was suitable for s road trip and advised I replace the passenger control arm and some bushings and ball joints on the driver side along with the radiator and radiator support as those were damaged from my ditch diving accident. I had him replace control arms, bushings, and ball joints on both sides and he did show me everything it needed while it was on the lift. Overall, I love this car, regardless of how much maintenance it needs. It's part of owning a car. They do use a lot of cheap plastic which can make repairing difficult and expensive as dealerships charge an absurd amount for parts alone. But with good maintenance and a watchful eye, owning one of these cars can be a lot of fun. If you want to learn more about fixing these cars, more specifically the R56 Cooper S, check out Eric The Car Guy's channel. He recently acquired one of these cars and has done a handful of detailed repair videos on it.
Hell yeah they are fun little go karts!!! surprised me just how fast they are for being so tiny and with their rep. My kid wanted one because they were "cute" but she has no license and my car's alternator belt tensioner lost a part on the freeway so I have been driving her mini and it is not bad at all. It's just the base auto too. Makes want to "borrow" a supped up 5 speed......that must be fun on the curves. 8-) hashahahahahahaha
I’ve had to replace my lower control arm bushings, water pump pulley (was about to detonate), drive belt, coolant hose from thermostat, solenoid harness, cylinder head gasket.
All a week or so after buying it. Make sure you have a mini professional check out any mini you are looking at before buying it. Wish I did, but now I love this car.
Your channel is a reference for Mini Cooper owners. Many thanks my friend!
Mini driver for 10 years now.great cars.I've had zero problems .were on are 6th mini.so much fun.
Try owning ONE for 10 years. Then you will see the problems lol
6 cars in 10 years is not a sign that they are good cars
I currently do not own a mini but I'm addicted, thanks for the videos.
Just got a 2010 MINI Cooper S. Very glad to see this video!
I love my Mini Cooper s. I have been changing my oil every 3500-4000 miles and I have not had any issues. I have had my mini for 2 years and put about 40 miles on it. I really love this car.
One thing I had a problem with is weather stripping. But I live in hot California and my car is black, so it melted somewhat the weathering strip on my car. I got a car cover and hope to never have this problem again.
I agree completely on the code reader. Mine has saved me a lot of headaches and money. The other 4 things you mentioned, while are nice to do, aren't essential. I've never walnut blasted my car nor do I have a catch can, and I only change my oil every 7000 miles, but with all of that being said, my r56 s is at 235,000 miles and it's had a stage 1 tune since 60,000. In its lifetime, I have replaced one hpfp(early in its lifetime...like 50,000), a thermostat housing....or two, a timing chain(under warranty...so that had to be really early in its lifetime), a valve cover, a clutch(my choosing), a catalytic converter(also my choosing), the exhaust side on the turbo(damn waste gate flapper), and basic things such as seals and such. After experimenting a lot and watching other friend's cars break I can tell you what worked for me.
1.) Keep your oil topped off. Oil changes are cool and all but please keep it topped off. Chains inevitably stretch but why help it out.
2.) Don't beat on your car with low gas. I personally stop beating on my car when it gets to a 1/4 tank. If you want to take the risk of burning up your hpfp, then by all means continue to beat on it, but I wouldn't advise.
3.) Use 93 please. The IAT temperatures in this car are already high enough with the stock intercooler...why chance your engine with lower octane fuel? I get it that its cheaper but gas is much cheaper than an engine and install....that I can promise you. This leads me to my next point.
4.) Go ahead and splurge and by yourself an aftermarket intercooler. You know how nice it is to beat on a car and not have a worry in the world about detonation/pinging. It's beautiful I tell ya. If you can ever get a scan gauge and look at your IAT temps when you are just sitting in traffic it will blow your mind. This leads me to point 5.
5.) Get a scan gauge or something to read info. Why did MINI not install a water temp gauge on this car is beyond me. Go ahead and give yourself a way to prevent your engine from taking a poop on you when your plastic thermostat housing cracks(because it will) and starts leaking all of your coolant out. I caught my first housing leak because my temps were just creeping and I didn't know why. My scan gauge is my best friend.
6.) Last one...this one may seem silly but I have a sneaky feeling that this thought, although an in theory type of thought, has saved my car a lot of headache. Get yourself a cold air intake...I personally have the a ddm race intake because I think sealed boxes are better but get whatever you want. My theory behind this mod is that by getting you one of these puppies, you can save your catalytic converter from an inevitable death due to these cars running so damn rich. Don't worry about running lean...your MAF won't let you run lean enough to blow anything up so why not allow your turbocharger system to be more efficient?
Although this last thing isn't a necessity, I will say it definitely helps.....DRIVE THE FREAKING CAR! PLEASE! Direct injection engines don't like to babied(i.e. valve coking issues). Save yourself a walnut blast or two and just actually get on it sometimes. Rev it out every now and then....i swear, it won't hurt it.
Andre Jones what kind of intake could I get for a 2015 Paceman S? I’m not sure what’s compatible with the Paceman S engine so your help would be greatly appreciated. If you can a link to one would be so amazing! Thank you for all the other tips man. Really great stuff to know right after getting my first Mini.
Wow..Thank You! 🙏🏽 Thank You! saved me. gonna get air box..did a K&N drop in but you feel more is needed....gonna get intercooler too. Ordered a a scan tool because of Bimmer dude, a few minutes ago. was down a quart from the guy i bought it from -- now i keep a quart in the car. Won't use cheap 93 ever Again. ---Thx first your addition!!!!!!!!
What scan tool do you recommend? I was thinking about getting a BlueDriver. What are you using for code checking and real-time measurements of temp and what not?
Also, what intercooler do you recommend?
I have a 2010 Mini Cooper S I bought the cold air AEM intake and the bluedriver scan tool works great use it all the time canadian-made well worth the $99 the cold air intake is between five and seven hundred bucks depending on where you buy it hope this helps you out
I understand the stigma about the mini, I love mine as much as I like my 1981 Fiat Spider because they make driving rewardingly passionate
I've just got a 2009 Mini Cooper s. it had already been moded. And I know the guy took care of it but these videos are a great help thanks for taking the time out of your life to make them. They are appreciated.
I pulled the engine on my 07 R56 S. It's a mess. It all started with a broken (plastic) water pipe in the rear of the engine. I caught it before it broke completely and ruined my engine. Now I'm waiting for the machine shop to return the engine to me. I've made some mods, replaced every high wear part, rebuilt the transmission, axels, clutch, brakes, adding gauges and an n18 oil pump. What is a killer issue is finding good information on some of the more tech and obscure issues with the car. I've had to bother a lot of people, the dealer is useless, and even ex-mini techs don't know everything. So common sense, research, and listening to people who have fixed many issues successfully is the only way to keep on track.
Going against my best judgment, but because I’m a car guy and we never forget our first car…I”m going to go look at a 15 R60 Mini Cooper S Countryman All4 today for my sons first car. It’s crazy, but it’s actually a financial decision besides the fun factor because in my area used cars go real high for common cars while they actually do not have that “actual” value in them so if I can get this deal done it will be a GREAT deal. If it works out, my son and I will dive deep into learning together and it will be good father son bonding experience. Thanks for the video, I’ve owned a RX8 so a little extra car really does bond the owner with the car.
2007 mini S 120,000 miles runs absolutely like new. Ams Oil only oil I ever used in it. Change oil every 12,000 miles. Never had an issue. Only issue is now the POS passenger airbag sensor. Way to go Beamer.
What type and brand of oil do you buy ?
Ams Oil
Your maintenance comparison to the RX7 and RX8 is accurate, I have owned both. And now on my third ownership of a Mini.
I was thinking about getting a R60 JCW Countryman with N18 motor. But after researching about it, I learned a lot but decided not to get a Mini. One major thing to add to preventative maintenance is the replace the turbo oil feed line with OEM or an aftermarket upgraded stainless steel braided line to prevent turbo failure.
What you say is reasonable and true and applies to all the vehicles. Mine an Audi A3 TDI from 1997 has now 657.000 kilometers on the speedometer. I'm a bit surprised at the frequent oil change at about 3,000 till 3,500 miles for a gasoline engine...God bless you !
Somebody watches Tavarish! Great video. Preventative maintenance is definitely the best mod for your car.
Great content as well as comments. Thanks for all the info. Just purchased a Mini Cooper and truly dig the ride but just as much, need the insight on how to keep it that way. Thanks again.
I own a 2008 R56 S, and man i sure have ran into problems. However my car does have lots of miles and the previous owners were not too kind to the car. So, all im going to say is that my mini is so much fun and i love it to death, but it sure does have problems and expensive ones. Keeping the oil up is the best tip I'd give.
On our 3rd mini, first turbo and first used one though. Never had any problems with the previous 2 but my wife drove them and only put a couple hundred miles per month on them and had the service covered at the dealership as part of a promotion on both. Really appreciate your videos and plan to follow your advice on the walnut blast and oil catch can. Start saving for the fuel pump as well.
I just bought a 2009 cooper s & found this MASSIVELY helpful..Thank u.
The build up comes from the the direct injection design. Remove your crank ventilation line from the intake recycling system. A catch can is a must. You can also use B12 or Sea-foam or Lucas fuel injection cleaner. A catch can and one of these three components will remove the vapors. Thanks for information.
As I just purchased a 09 S model I appreciate the advice. 👍
So did I, I’m so scared mine is goin to break down in the future
My Mini Cooper S is a beast. 2003 Cooper s , blue , 2 door , 6 speed, I only use PREMIUM HIGH GRADE FUEL in my Cooper. My car is the best, I only give it the best!!
Funny enough as I watch this video my mini is currently sitting in my garage with a smoked fuel pump. I don't drive it very often just a Sunday cruise around ride went to start it a couple days ago and it was just dead not getting fuel what so ever, the hours I have clocked wrenching on it are quite a lot. That moment you hit those back roads chewing through turns zipping along makes it all worth it!
Thanks for the honest heads up on Mini.
Great video. Love how you took the time to inform the potential buyer. Love my mini
My 3rd German car. First 2 were VW Siroccos, '84 &'86. Both used and paid cash. When I bought my '84 Scirocco, I drove into first garage while test driving before buying. Mechanic was willing to drive and give me advice. "These are great cars if you take care of them. Highest octane fuel at all times, the right oil, at this time 30w Castrol, 4 cylinder "duh". Oil change 5 thousand miles. No additives whatsoever." I never told him my first car was a '58 Morris Minor that I worked on myself. My '84 Scirocco ran like a dream! Was side swiped and totalled. My "86 was the same. Almost 200,000 miles when I sold. It ran and looked new. I felt ill selling it at 1,000 over book value. Well, parts became obsolete after that. My Mini Cooper 2011 non S stick shift has 51,000 now after 6 years owning. Again, second owner, paid cash. I use 5x30w %100 synthetic Castrol(owners manual)says.I still remember that young mechanic's advice. Thank you for for this video and advice!
Hi there. This is 2024. Is there a newer creator C110 from this video 5 years ago? Thank you!!
Thankyou for the bid brother 👍🏼 just became an owner of an r55 09 clubman S .. love the car and Ofcourse wanna keep it living for as long as i can !
Prosper Tv hey man anyway I can dm you?
Wow I got lucky buying my Cooper S 06 R53. Not many issues Ive had yet. The water pump leaked and I caught it before the warranty time line. Recently As of 2018 I have changed the Rotors fixed a small leak in the rad system with filler that plugged the small leak. Also I had to replace the oil check fiber dip stick.
Other stuff like tires, brakes, front head lights and oil changes of course. It has a few nicks from road rocks and a few curb scratches on the rims. I am thankful and lucky to have this vehicle.
Saddly I maybe selling soon
I was after a decent obd scan tool for my mini , you've answered my question perfect
Have just ordered the same one.
Thanks man 👍
Hey Bimmer dude, I have experienced these issues first hand. My fuel Pump went bad, I had the p300 -304 codes, I changed it out myself, using your video, I did end up making a tool to remove the connector, just took 90 degree pliers and taped ball bearings on the pinch points, it worked. I just bought the Catch can, just need to get the hoses, connectors and clamps. Now I did not do the walnut blast, I went a cheaper route. Have you heard of CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner? I used it, it is a 2 person job, since you have to have someone keeping your RPMs up, but it was pretty easy and I did see a gain in MPG and HP. You are my go to guy on my mini. Thanks for the info
Yessss I'm so glad you mentioned the oil catch can! I was changing out the thermostat housing and the water pipe and found that there was oil on the intake where it mounted to the block. I'm fairly new to all the technical maintenance (such as why there is oil on my intake rings) and you've helped me clear that up. I found that prices were around $150 on ecs tuning and mini mania?
Great tips! Even two years later, I'll do all suggestions on mine! Thanks!
Thanks, very helpful. You are an excellent speaker. I don't think you stuttered even once. You have a talent. Just got an '07 mini. Be well.
I just bought a 2002 Mini....
See, I was hoping someone would make a video like this. Thanks a whole bunch for this video man!
Great video, love my R56 and already have the kit to change the turbo oil feed / return lines. I’m a little nervous but your videos give me confidence thanks man ❤
I’ve NEVER used a catch can, but when I get another mini I am considering the R56 and I’ll honestly probably get my first can on the MINI
Berryman B-12 is a serious cleaner. Dirt cheap so don't let the price fool you. It might help with the build up you get. Nice video.
Great video! Unfortunately I was uneducated and bought a Mini Cooper S Clubman from an unknown source and the engine blew 3 months later 🙄. I’ve decided to sell it as opposed to spending the $$$ to fix it... which is a bummer because after driving it for 3 months, I def have the Mini big! So fun to drive. I will buy another someday, but definitely from one owner who took meticulous care of it before me.
Same
I'm purchasing my first MINI this week!!! 2013 Mini Cooper S Manual with about 63k on it :) I'm excited!!! Subscribed and I'll check out your videos!!!
Thanks for the advice. I just had the walnut blast done, but didn’t think of the out catch can. Having 3 new Mini’s all advice is welcome. Lastly my Mini’s don’t us ease much oil between changes compared to my 2000 New Beetle GLS, 1998 Jetta or my 1994 Golf. Those vehicles we had to really check every other fuel fill. I religiously change my oil in all three Mini’s at 5k no matter what the driving conditions. That is about 2 k more than you suggested, but I never go over. BTW 2 hp fuel pumps in my 2011 S. Luckily both were warrant and the car has only 54k on it.
Next move is the oil catch can upgrade. I dig your videos and please don’t stop. I know some friends who follow but haven’ t found the like button!
Doug w/3 Mini’s and 1 63 Mini Super deluxe in restoration
Great detailed breakdown of potential issues and sound advice. Thanks again for sharing buddy!
06 owner here with a gripe about the poor engineering of the power steering system. Mine is out once again! Learning more and more about the car that I love to drive but it’s a fine line between money and love.
I jjinxed myself. Last week I said last week my Mini has never had an issue, 85.5k miles, even got compliments on it at a Mini dealership how clean and well maintained it was. Today it threw a code and went into limp mode. P054B, camshaft position timing over retarded. Its been a rough winter in Colorado and I'm worried its timing chain, or something to do with the guide on camshaft B, which i believe runs the exhaust valves.
2012 Countryman S All4
I'll second the valve cleaning. I had my mini completely disabled by the valve's getting too much carbon build up. It is an issue with all direct injected cars as the intake doesn't get the fuel scouring that a port injected car would get, the catch can mod should help with the carbon build up in the intake. If you're doing a water pump you should probably replace the pump with a metal one Febi has a good one. In addition to the HPFP failing the vacuum pump can also fail and should be replaced before it does so it doesn't kill the engine as the normal failure mode is for it to seize and it's locked to the cams.
R53 supercharger copper s was quite reliable for me, the 2005-6 was the best version.
Maybe I am just lucky but my 2012 JCW R56 now has 80000 km and never had any issues. First Timing Chain (late version of the N18 engine with less issues) , first Clutch etc... I really recommend using at least 5w40 oil. I change oil, oil filter and air filter 2 times a year.
Great info. I appreciate your vids! I reluctantly bought my second R56(2008) knowing about some of these issues with my 07(HPFP and walnut blasting) however finding your channel gives me some comfort that I can better maintain this car more affordably and do some of the maintenance on my own and/find a tech who will do it at a fraction of the dealership cost. I've got a couple questions I hope you can answer: Which AOS do you recommend and where to source it? and, I have an issue with the driver side window where it doesn't retract downward far enough upon opening the door whereby causing an issue when closing the door. I usually have to close the door and apply a little pressure on the topside of the window to tuck it under the door frame. hopefully that made sense :) Thanks again for taking the time to create your videos! BTW, I ordered my HPFP last week thanks to your video I will be installing it myself. Mine was on the way out.
Our '11 R56 S had the HPFP replaced free at the dealership a few weeks ago. Thanks for the tips on oil consumption.
I had a 03 mini cooper..... loved the car heated the issues that kept popping up. Now i'm buying 2010.... guess I like the car more than the problems.
Thanks for the quick tips. Def need to get that catch can in. Got bigger intercooolwr coming and charge pipes..
I bought my 2008 R56 MCS back in mid July this year. In the last 3 months I've essentially bankrupt myself in getting new parts for it and getting it how I like it. It currently has 200,000Km on the clock which is a LOT I know but! I only payed €4500 for it. ( I live in Ireland, these cars are quite rare, especially ones that aren't an awful gold color ) So far, I've had it serviced ( oil, oil filter, air filter and iridium plugs), I've had the rocker cover gasket changed, Timing chain and guides replaced ( thankfully no damage to the timing, just a broken guide ), Oil filter housing seals, Brake pads and disks front and rear and I've had to get rear left caliper changed, I've also had an aftermarket custom exhaust made, got my windows tinted and got brand new €600 Borbet wheels for it and so far I'm up to a total of €9000 including the car with mech fees and whatever. So although it has taken me 3 months to finally have the car to a point that it drives smooth with no knocks or rattles and it feels like I've spent hours wasting my time and worrying, I've only spent about €1000 more than what it would cost to buy a 2008 MCS with 130,000-150,000Km. Which in my eyes isn't so bad considering they have an awful reputation for reliability. Thankfully in Ireland, petrol stations don't sell anything bar 95 octane petrol so hopefully the carbon buildup isn't the worst.
ANYWAYS sorry for rambling, if there are any long term MCS owners watching this video who happens to read this comment, what experiences did you have with your car? I'd love to hear other peoples stories with their favorite love/hate relationship haha, or even if you guys have any advice for me in future on what I should do to keep this car for another 10 years!
"Timing Chain and Guides". This is due to Oil. YES, some oil will cause the 'plastic' to deteriorate and crack.
Owned an r53 since new, 2005. Only owner. Other than a few issues fixed under warranty, the car has been fine, engine is still strong. Now, I have had some issues that I've had to throw money towards but that's usually due to the fact that I've had alot of aftermarket work done. Most recently I had to change both O2 sensors and replace my aftermarket cat because i thought the codes thrown were something i had encountered before and wasn't a issue. I should have checked because it ended up being my o2 was bad and burned so rich that my cat and both o2 were so sooty my engine kept shutting down in eml limp mode. It was totally my fault. Had I kept my car stock I would have spent a lot less money on thr car through out the years haha. A lot of people look at these cars as "cute" little cars but they soon realize these are NOT beginners cars. I've been able to keep my MINI running so long because I'm METICULOUS about maintenance and checking on different sounds and things i notice. If you are thinking this is going to be a cute little car to own and think it's going to be a car you can just drive and drive and drive like a Honda, then you should probably look the other way. I guess I only say this because I love my car and its hard for me to think there are tons of MINI owners out there who have no idea how to take care of a car like this.
Greetings from Germany :) Godd to see some Mini Lovers in the US btw nice Videos Dude !
First of all, I only came across your channel the other week and cannot thank you enough for the high pressure fuel pump replacement video, BMW quoted me around £1200 and I did it myself for £350 after watching your video so thank you so much.
My question is that I had my engine ‘carbon cleaned’ about 6 months ago. Is this the same service you talked about when you mentioned the walnut blast?
I have had so many issues with my r56 and and just sick of wasting money on it but I still love it so much!
Thanks again
Charlie Carrington yes sir that is the very same service . its a great starting point when you first start out. Sounds like you did yours already lol.
@@BimmerDude WAIT--- my dealer tried to sell me on a Carbon Clean something... is this the same thing??? cost seems lower than you're suggesting.... they were asking $270... and it was a dealer. SECOND question.... I know not much about cars at all--- this carbon cleaning... if my 2015 Engine was just replaced (new)... shouldn't I wait a while for that treatment? BY THE WAY - great video -- you seem really genuine in your delivery and content. (fellow Texan).
Thanks for the good info! Will definitely do those things you mentioned to my wife's mini. Funny you mention oil consumption on the RX7. Since mine has that problem. Lol
Oil consumption is normal and necessary on any RX-7 or other Mazda rotary though.
RX7 oil consumption is not a "problem" that you can avoid. It is a built in function in the rotary engine as a way of lubricating the rotor. If you don't regularly check the oil and fill it up (as well as changing the oil filter and oil, don't just think you can fill it up, you need to change it just as regularly as you do on piston engines, if not more), if you don't regularly make sure you have a good oil level the engine will eventually run dry and seize.
So far my 2013 r56 jcw has been running amazingly (it's not my profile pic, that is my old r53 s) aside from getting into a fender bender because the other driver didn't have their headlights on. I do have a few tips for detailing the car though:
1. Buy some plastic trim restorer especially if you live in a hot state because over time the black plastic fenders and splitter turn grey and faded. I use the meguiars ultimate back to black spray. It's just like spraying paint
2. Wipe down the plastic in the engine bay. I've noticed the engine bay can full of dust faster than some other hot hatches so you definitely wanna wipe down the plastic covers as the extra dust can generate a little more heat inside and these n18 and n14 already run pretty hot.
3. Get the weather tech mats, they are so much easier to clean then the carpet that comes stand down below but that should be a general car tip
4. Tint the windows if you live down south. The upper half of all modern minis from r53 onward all have a ton of glass up top. In summer here in Florida it gets stupid hot to the point where I don't even wanna drive my mini sometimes with if it bakes in the sun too long. Some window tints come with heat shield to help prevent that and I highly recommend doing that so your car is a little cooler in the summer.
I love this little hatchback and appreciate this video heavily. I never realized how much caring for these cars is similar to caring for a rotary even though in my family in total we have had 5 rx-7s (1 EB, 2 FCs and a FD)
Getting my 09 clubman s this week. Thanks for saying that a catch can is a good investment. I will be getting that as first mod. FYI the do sell the blaster adapter and is a nice tool to have. Able to knock off 90%+ of the intake crap off. As well as not as messy.
1. List the changes
2. Talk about the changes 1 by 1
3. Reiterate the changes
4. Smash the like. 👍💪
Thank you for the info, I'm coming back to the Mini family.
New to the Mini and your clip was fantastic, thank you for the heads up info...
Thanks Bimmer Dude, the oil catch can is a great idea.
Haha the oil consumption is fun stuff... the diesel one with the N47 engine in the UK eats no oil for me... I may have filled up like half a liter over a year... which is normal for newer Diesel engines... due to manufacturer efforts to improve fuel consumption figures by loosening valve guides...etc
Thanks!
I had lots of problems with my Mini Moke back in the day, but I've always wanted another Mini. I'm going to avoid all these problems by going with the electric Mini Cooper S E.
3:03 - great ethos, and it's one you'd better have for ANY used vehicle made direct or under the umbrella of "Bey Ooom Vey".
Wow! 🤯🤯🤣🤣😱Too wordy. I guess I’ve been blessed, cause the only thing that I’ve had a problem so far with is the drivers seat and I’ve seen TH-cam videos fixing the too reclined problem on the seat and I will try it tomorrow! But really man🤯you’re wayyyyy toooooo wordy!
Bought a 2004 a few months ago, running well so far..
Nice vid bro! Heading out tonight to complete the purchase of a 2011 LCI R56. Looking forward to the ownership!
Would you buy the 2011 again?
@@LastTrump7was a great vehicle but they certainly are not as reliable as other brands.
I just got my 2011 jcw with 116k, only had it 1x month and did timing job just to be safe , ko04 f21 and full support mods and custom tune and lol now I need to replace my clutch so I ordered a new flywheel and stage 3x 6x puck clutch
Thanks for the info, it’s gonna help me out when it comes to buying my r56 in a few months!
Did u get it
You just earned a subscriber good sir! Also a fellow Texan
Thanks man!! Texas FTW
Same here, Texas is where it’s at
I live in Texas aswell I have a 2002 Mini Cooper s and it’s toast at the moment
Much appreciated, I’m looking to buy one soon so many thanks for the advice.
Thanks for these videos.. I just recently picked up a 2013 r55 with a JCW tuning kit. Although the car looked to be well maintained, I will be adding a catch can soon.
Preventive maintenance does extend cars and like u said use Lucas injector cleaner the additives definitely help too and sea foam those things keep u from spending big bucks
Great elocution. Regular oil change history (Car Fax) is imperative!
Thanks man my wife wants one of these things and she dosent even know how to inflate a tire and i cant convince her otherwise about the burden these cars are if your not mechanically inclined now im trying to get as much knowledge about these cars as possible because im gonna be doing most of the work and probably none of the driving so im trying to see if i can toyota swap everything in these cars take iut the engine take out the transmission and put a fuel cell in it and chip it is that possible
No problem man. Hope I help your situation out lol happy wife happy life lol
Wife loves her R60 S All4 but never knows when it will fail to start or throw the CEL. We do know that MINI will replace a failed HPFP under a silent recall 👍
Biggest issue I have living in Southern California is heat issues with the CAS module. Prevents the car from starting and fuse clicking
Thank you for such an informative video....I was just thinking that some sort of filter to catch blowby would be great,didn't even know about the catch can you mentioned...just put in my order !
Here in germany we have Carly as an OBD adapter and app, which is the most extensive app available, you can also code alot of options that you dont have in a specific trim, i use a china obd bluetooth connector with DeepOBD which shows all codes with explanation, costs stay around 10€
THIS! I used Carly with a $30 bluetooth OBD module and got rid of the stupid factory speedometer overclock. Here in the U.S it's ridiculous to be clocked 4 mph higher than you are actually traveling. Stupid European traffic laws.
Bro! Your videos are very helpful. I just got a 08 Mini cooper s. I really like the things you did to yours. Keep up the good work on this channel. Thanks for all info!
Informative video! Nice to get relevant details from a hands on Dude! I will be looking into your other vids. - Kudos & Thanks
I tried to Seafoam the engine (not the liquid bottle) the aerosol with the hose from the pcv pipe and the hesitation is gone now. not the best way to remove the carbon but once in while will knock it off. great vids btw
In the two years I’ve owned my N14 R56 JCW I’ve replaced the thermostat housing, half the cooling system, HPFP, spark plugs, O2 sensor, replaced faded rear Mini badge, replaced front chrome trim, replaced cracked antenna. As far as maintenance I’ve done countless oil changes, a walnut blast on the intake valves, coolant flush, several wiper blade replacements and a rear brake job. And now I have an issue where I get limp mode with no codes. Used to only happen in sport mode and now happens in normal mode. Usually it happens when accelerating above 4000 rpm. Also has a rattling noise on cold starts. It will go away after several restarts and some moderate acceleration. Can’t figure this one out. I’m at almost 90k miles now. Next thing thing to do is change out the air filter as it’s past due. I think my next car is going to be an EV. Maybe a Tesla, lol