great comment on how difficult / easy it is to work on the car.,working on the valves.....gives me a lot of confidence.....brilliant info on all the items mentioned..just bought a cooper S with 125k and giving me problems...garages will charge me too much so guess im going to do it myself lying on some cold english floor,but your videos give me the boost i will need...thanks a lot,great advice..cheers !
Just got the new fuel filter kit and the oil for my manual transmission . I also purchased the spark plug sockets that you recommended , thanks for that I would have been out there grinding mine down.
@@ProjectMini good stuff. I appreciate that . If you have instagram , follow me on there (chasedahdream) You'll catch the post when I make the channel...also can check out my guys business , that I work for. (Teamfatkidfoodtruck) they were on the great food truck race in california in 2019 . We are all local here to va beach , va. Vet owned business as well. Check it out
Agree...having maintenance history is important; especially as it relates to the timing chain condition. If the oil was changed frequently (e.g. every 5K miles) then you are already ahead of the game. Nevertheless, I would still do the following: 1) take 4 ounces of liquid Seafoam and add to the oil fill...run this for about 50-100 miles and just before the next oil change. I would do a fresh oil change with a newly purchased used car, soonest and for safe measure (5W-30 full syn; 4.2 liters). Seafoam (or similar cleaning treatments) will reduce engine varnish buildup and, most importantly, any buildup within the turbo oil feed line. I would add 8 oz of liquid Seafoam to the gas tank...to clean out fuel injectors. As this is a DFI engine, I would do a Seafoam treatment to the dirty side vacuum (the hose going into the rear corner of the valve cover on the passenger side, USA). After decoupling that hose from the valve cover, I use 6 ounces of liquid Seafoam in a plastic cup and apply this to the vacuum hose intake with the engine already at operating temp and running at 2K RPM. Carefully regulating the suction of Seafoam from the cup, with my thumb over the vacuum tube, so as not to stall the engine. Once all the Seafoam is consumed, reinstall the end of the vacuum tube to the valve cover, shut down the engine and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. Then start and run the vehicle at 4K RPM until the smoke clears from the exhaust (~10 minutes). 2) Install an oil catch can between the CLEAN side of the valve cover and the turbo inlet pipe connection. Leave the fittings and about 4~6 inches of factory tubing at each end and splice the catch can setup in between. For the Oil catch can...look for one on AliEx (or eBay/Amazon) with large inlet/outlet fittings that couples nicely with good quality automotive tubing (buy ~ 1.5 meters; ID 16mm / OD 23mm) that will couple nicely with the catch can fittings (barbed 16mm OD). The oil catch can should be baffled and have a porous screen for the outlet side...to ensure condensate separates and collects inside the can while clean air exits via the outlet. Mine also has a ball valve at the bottom with a lever, to easily drain the catch can without having to unscrew it from its mount. You''ll need 2 x (19mm to 16mm) Brass (or ALU) straight/barbed reducing connectors to couple the factory tubing (~19mm ID) to the Catch can tubing (~16mm ID). As well, you'll need: 2 x 19mm black pinch spring hose clamps (factory tube side); 4 x 16mm black pinch spring hose clamps (catch can tube side). Also, a 90 degree bracket to mount the catch can (bought at any HW store). I sourced everything (except the bracket) on AliEx and it cost a total of ~$50. Once you have all of the parts...it's a 20 minute job. 3) The dirty side catch can, for low RPM / idle operations, is also preferred...but lower in priority to the CLEAN side catch can. However, the automotive tubing you will need is larger (19mm ID, 28mm OD; "3/4 inch"; 2 meters) as the tubes will need to be mounted directly to the factory plastic fittings. Here, the goal is to completely remove the cheap factory plastic/corrugated tubing and to couple directly to the factory fittings at both ends. This will require removing that plastic/corrugated pipe completely and carefully cutting away the pipe from each factory fitting so that the fittings can be reused with the 3/4 inch tubing. Another catch can is required, as is another angle bracket to hang it. You''ll also need 4 x black pinch spring hose clamps for each end of the inlet and outlet tubes. Lastly, for the catch can, as the supplied fittings are 16mm, you can use some spare 16mmID tubing to cover these fittings so that the 3/4 inch tube can be secured with the spring hose clamp to the catch can. 4) Find out when the thermostat was last changed. If not, do this along with the water pump and the oil cooler gaskets. While there, also do the oil filter housing gaskets and (since already there) replace the oil feed line to the turbo with a flexible/braided S.S. feed tube + turbo oil return line kit. Since access for each is labor intensive...do them all at the same time to reduce overall labor costs. Since these operations will result in coolant or oil loss...do a system flush and replace with G48 (blue) + do another oil/filter change. Good luck!
Thanks for info, just bought a 2008 Mini S JCW with 34,000 miles on it.. Already own a 2006 Mini S first Gen for 11 yrs... 140,000 miles and transmission is starting to slipping in second gear ⚙️ 😳 Is it worth fixing it????? Motor is still running strong and body in great shape
hi from a shanghai r56s n14b16 owner. i am doing my research on oil catch can and thanks a lot for your work on this model! I would much appreciate your comments on this opinion regarding blocking back pcv to throttle body and running only one oil catch can to the turbo charger - have you maybe tried that already?
Really enjoying your videos and content - will join the group too. Is there somewhere I can find at which mileage point is it recommended to do these fixes/replacements?
So I've suspected I need to replace at least the timing chain tensioner if not the whole thing for a bit I didn't have the engine light until recently it read p0341-2 so camshaft position sensor bank 1 I'm not sure if it's actually bad or it's popping the code cause the timing or they both need replaced.. any suggestions?
k swap + turbo or compresor on stock engine you can have 300+ hp safe beating all day engine and gearbox. i was in hondas for 15y. and have all civics swaps k24/20 k20 eg,ek,prelude... but one thing is 100% minie i on first more drivable, more pleasant and a better car as a chassis with everything it offers but the jr engine is crap.. the honda k series engine is the best ever made 4 cylinders.. 🖖🏻
So, I replaced my crank seal with a Detroit tuned seal. I used the install tool so I know the edges aren’t rolled. It’s still leaking! I’m confused why the new seal has a runny nose. Could this be a crankcase pressure issue? Someone please help… I’ve got all new pcv breather parts so I don’t know why the leak remains. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Vehicle is 2009 Mini Cooper S with N14 engine, 95k miles.
Does the n18 valve cover fit the n14 so we won’t get carbon buildup on the n14 intake ports and valves, because the vent in the cover is different and the vaccine lines are run a little different🧐 What are you RED PILL OR BLUE PILL
Useful video. I've had mine a month, done the chain and tensioner, oil change and ditched the runflat tyres. Mines had a eBay cam cover installed which leaks but so far I'm finding the car easy to work on. Love having such a great driving car. I want to do an upgrade to an electric vac pump as I don't like the drive off the end of the cam.
They do on the occ i still have installed but the issue i was having with the other can was caused by the amount of boost I’m running. The can on the intake side doesn’t see boost
lol I I agree not too bad although I do get worried about smoking cars I constantly smile my car look at everyone else’s car I see smoke all the time God if that happens I am up shit creek without a paddle I don’t know how to do that all that no no no no and I don’t trust anyone that’s how come to start watching videos!I decided that I’m going to learn how to use a screwdriver and socket and 10 mm about getting that to us very important on that car that’s what makes it a pain! nuts and screws just in case one breaks! ugg I actually did brakes rotors coil’s spark plugs! Your videos! Help tremendously but I do worry all the time !!!!! im sure that’s it 4 me ! I think that’s all I can do Isn’t there any other way other than walnut blast? I don’t have a turbo? Advise thanks again
Step 1 Replace every important part. Man I have one of these. Fun to drive but mini really didn't follow through with this one. Thanks for your content
Waste of money 💰 on mini cooper's / the top 3 🚗 cars on this world. nissan,toyota, and honda. Trouble-free cars/ good price and lasts even more years than its owners.. 😂
Don’t forget to subscribe th-cam.com/users/projectminis
Yes sir! Liked subscribed and notifications 📳
great comment on how difficult / easy it is to work on the car.,working on the valves.....gives me a lot of confidence.....brilliant info on all the items mentioned..just bought a cooper S with 125k and giving me problems...garages will charge me too much so guess im going to do it myself lying on some cold english floor,but your videos give me the boost i will need...thanks a lot,great advice..cheers !
Awesome Eric. I’ve got mine in really nice running condition after coils, plugs, exhaust, battery, tires and a friction wheel job. Catch can is on!
Thanks I really appreciate it when owners gives there experiences with the n14 engine and what should be done to keep them reliable. Thanks 👍
Thanks for watching!
Just got the new fuel filter kit and the oil for my manual transmission . I also purchased the spark plug sockets that you recommended , thanks for that I would have been out there grinding mine down.
Do you know when it got the improved OEM water pump?
Get the Alluminum therm housing and Alluminum water pipe. Its a game changer.
Thank you brother 🙏
'Cryogen' timing chains - Sneed4Speed
Oil Catch Can - M7 Speed
metal Water Pipe, metal Thermostat Housing - ECS Tuning
metal Water Pump - GRAF
Vacuum pump - Peirburg
Valves - SuperTech
metal Valve Cover, oil pan - URO Premium
Diverter Valve - DV+
The peugeot / citroen n14 oem hpfp can be found on ecstuning or fcp for about $600.
Great vid! Subbed.
Thank you 🙏
My hpfp cost about 500€ from a small factory the other option was an original hpfp from BMW for 850€
@@Enrico_Ewhere did you buy finde in europa hpfp?
Is there any additives you can add to the fuel to clean the valves
Try Clean Drive, works well in my experience
No
Love your videos man.. I think I'm going to start doing r56 vids with my 2nd one... Did very extensive work on my blue one
Thank you 🙏 I’ll definitely check your channel out once you do 💪
@@ProjectMini good stuff. I appreciate that .
If you have instagram , follow me on there (chasedahdream)
You'll catch the post when I make the channel...also can check out my guys business , that I work for. (Teamfatkidfoodtruck) they were on the great food truck race in california in 2019 . We are all local here to va beach , va. Vet owned business as well. Check it out
@@ProjectMini my instagram has all the work I've done on my blue mini and 1 pic of the newer black one.
I just sent you a request @project_mini_official
Hello, I just bought 2007 cooper S 1.6 with N14, the mileage is 56,000 kilometers, do I need to do any of these 11 points now?? Thanks for your reply.
Hard to say yet. Depends who owned it before? Have you got all the paperwork and history for it?
Agree...having maintenance history is important; especially as it relates to the timing chain condition. If the oil was changed frequently (e.g. every 5K miles) then you are already ahead of the game.
Nevertheless, I would still do the following:
1) take 4 ounces of liquid Seafoam and add to the oil fill...run this for about 50-100 miles and just before the next oil change. I would do a fresh oil change with a newly purchased used car, soonest and for safe measure (5W-30 full syn; 4.2 liters). Seafoam (or similar cleaning treatments) will reduce engine varnish buildup and, most importantly, any buildup within the turbo oil feed line.
I would add 8 oz of liquid Seafoam to the gas tank...to clean out fuel injectors.
As this is a DFI engine, I would do a Seafoam treatment to the dirty side vacuum (the hose going into the rear corner of the valve cover on the passenger side, USA). After decoupling that hose from the valve cover, I use 6 ounces of liquid Seafoam in a plastic cup and apply this to the vacuum hose intake with the engine already at operating temp and running at 2K RPM. Carefully regulating the suction of Seafoam from the cup, with my thumb over the vacuum tube, so as not to stall the engine. Once all the Seafoam is consumed, reinstall the end of the vacuum tube to the valve cover, shut down the engine and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. Then start and run the vehicle at 4K RPM until the smoke clears from the exhaust (~10 minutes).
2) Install an oil catch can between the CLEAN side of the valve cover and the turbo inlet pipe connection. Leave the fittings and about 4~6 inches of factory tubing at each end and splice the catch can setup in between. For the Oil catch can...look for one on AliEx (or eBay/Amazon) with large inlet/outlet fittings that couples nicely with good quality automotive tubing (buy ~ 1.5 meters; ID 16mm / OD 23mm) that will couple nicely with the catch can fittings (barbed 16mm OD). The oil catch can should be baffled and have a porous screen for the outlet side...to ensure condensate separates and collects inside the can while clean air exits via the outlet. Mine also has a ball valve at the bottom with a lever, to easily drain the catch can without having to unscrew it from its mount.
You''ll need 2 x (19mm to 16mm) Brass (or ALU) straight/barbed reducing connectors to couple the factory tubing (~19mm ID) to the Catch can tubing (~16mm ID). As well, you'll need: 2 x 19mm black pinch spring hose clamps (factory tube side); 4 x 16mm black pinch spring hose clamps (catch can tube side). Also, a 90 degree bracket to mount the catch can (bought at any HW store). I sourced everything (except the bracket) on AliEx and it cost a total of ~$50.
Once you have all of the parts...it's a 20 minute job.
3) The dirty side catch can, for low RPM / idle operations, is also preferred...but lower in priority to the CLEAN side catch can. However, the automotive tubing you will need is larger (19mm ID, 28mm OD; "3/4 inch"; 2 meters) as the tubes will need to be mounted directly to the factory plastic fittings. Here, the goal is to completely remove the cheap factory plastic/corrugated tubing and to couple directly to the factory fittings at both ends. This will require removing that plastic/corrugated pipe completely and carefully cutting away the pipe from each factory fitting so that the fittings can be reused with the 3/4 inch tubing. Another catch can is required, as is another angle bracket to hang it. You''ll also need 4 x black pinch spring hose clamps for each end of the inlet and outlet tubes. Lastly, for the catch can, as the supplied fittings are 16mm, you can use some spare 16mmID tubing to cover these fittings so that the 3/4 inch tube can be secured with the spring hose clamp to the catch can.
4) Find out when the thermostat was last changed. If not, do this along with the water pump and the oil cooler gaskets. While there, also do the oil filter housing gaskets and (since already there) replace the oil feed line to the turbo with a flexible/braided S.S. feed tube + turbo oil return line kit. Since access for each is labor intensive...do them all at the same time to reduce overall labor costs. Since these operations will result in coolant or oil loss...do a system flush and replace with G48 (blue) + do another oil/filter change.
Good luck!
Thanks for info, just bought a 2008 Mini S JCW with 34,000 miles on it..
Already own a 2006 Mini S first Gen for 11 yrs... 140,000 miles and transmission is starting to slipping in second gear ⚙️ 😳
Is it worth fixing it?????
Motor is still running strong and body in great shape
Thank You As always
Good job
Hello, What have you done for the oil pressure light issue? Thanks
Awesome knowledge. Thank you.
Thank you 🙏
hi from a shanghai r56s n14b16 owner. i am doing my research on oil catch can and thanks a lot for your work on this model! I would much appreciate your comments on this opinion regarding blocking back pcv to throttle body and running only one oil catch can to the turbo charger - have you maybe tried that already?
how do you fix drain plug leaking bad?
Really enjoying your videos and content - will join the group too.
Is there somewhere I can find at which mileage point is it recommended to do these fixes/replacements?
So I've suspected I need to replace at least the timing chain tensioner if not the whole thing for a bit I didn't have the engine light until recently it read p0341-2 so camshaft position sensor bank 1 I'm not sure if it's actually bad or it's popping the code cause the timing or they both need replaced.. any suggestions?
Does this apply to r57 s jcw n14
Yes
Great video thank you! How is the Oasis HPFP holding up?
Which of these items would you recommend doing for an N18 engine?
I don’t own an N18 but these should still apply.
The N18 does have a better PCV system so catch cans aren’t as important
''the catch can hoses kept coming off'' brother they are zipped tie on.....
That's a good point, with proper champs, it Wont get lousse i guess
1 way to make your R56 more reliable. Kswap. I just replaced a BUNCH of stuff on my R56 and for the money I’d be halfway to a K20 swap by now 😂
k swap + turbo or compresor on stock engine you can have 300+ hp safe beating all day engine and gearbox. i was in hondas for 15y. and have all civics swaps k24/20 k20 eg,ek,prelude... but one thing is 100% minie i on first more drivable, more pleasant and a better car as a chassis with everything it offers but the jr engine is crap.. the honda k series engine is the best ever made 4 cylinders.. 🖖🏻
So, I replaced my crank seal with a Detroit tuned seal. I used the install tool so I know the edges aren’t rolled. It’s still leaking! I’m confused why the new seal has a runny nose. Could this be a crankcase pressure issue? Someone please help… I’ve got all new pcv breather parts so I don’t know why the leak remains. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Vehicle is 2009 Mini Cooper S with N14 engine, 95k miles.
Does the n18 valve cover fit the n14 so we won’t get carbon buildup on the n14 intake ports and valves, because the vent in the cover is different and the vaccine lines are run a little different🧐
What are you RED PILL OR BLUE PILL
Hello a great video perfect 👍👍👍from Germany 🇩🇪 👋👋👋 Kai
Thank you 🙏
I live in the hills of Rock Hill, SC 😎
Can you make one for n18 engines?
All the same things apply
Useful video. I've had mine a month, done the chain and tensioner, oil change and ditched the runflat tyres. Mines had a eBay cam cover installed which leaks but so far I'm finding the car easy to work on. Love having such a great driving car. I want to do an upgrade to an electric vac pump as I don't like the drive off the end of the cam.
Im really surprised that there isn’t an aftermarket electric vacuum pump made specifically for these cars. I would buy one for sure.
Nice vid thanks 👍🏼 surely your catch can hoses won’t seal just with cable ties 🤔
They do on the occ i still have installed but the issue i was having with the other can was caused by the amount of boost I’m running. The can on the intake side doesn’t see boost
Upload more videos 😂 I just got a r56 and need more content
Methanol where do you get that done?
Im working on an install video right now 💪
lol I I agree not too bad although I do get worried about smoking cars I constantly smile my car look at everyone else’s car I see smoke all the time God if that happens I am up shit creek without a paddle I don’t know how to do that all that no no no no and I don’t trust anyone that’s how come to start watching videos!I decided that I’m going to learn how to use a screwdriver and socket and 10 mm about getting that to us very important on that car that’s what makes it a pain! nuts and screws just in case one breaks! ugg I actually did brakes rotors coil’s spark plugs! Your videos! Help tremendously but I do worry all the time !!!!! im sure that’s it 4 me ! I think that’s all I can do Isn’t there any other way other than walnut blast? I don’t have a turbo? Advise thanks again
Step 1 Replace every important part. Man I have one of these. Fun to drive but mini really didn't follow through with this one. Thanks for your content
Step 1: If you see the N14 engine...don't buy it :p
i got one...i know what i'm talking about lmao
Love my mini Idk Some thing about it
What is a r56
Wonder why he quit TH-cam.
I’ll be back soon
@@ProjectMini I’ll be waiting
…trade for a Honda!
I feel like what he's saying, without saying, is don't buy a mini. 😭
Im not saying that at all. I love my Minis
Pain in the ass with bunch of issues. So pity myself not a mechanic - owning such a fun to ride n14b16model with turbo 😂
Well to bad bc I just bought a 2010 one with 184k miles, yea I'm stupid Ik
@@ozzyprod9332lol same but 170k
@@ozzyprod9332 no, just don’t be an idiot
Waste of money 💰 on mini cooper's / the top 3 🚗 cars on this world. nissan,toyota, and honda. Trouble-free cars/ good price and lasts even more years than its owners.. 😂
its not about trouble free but the pure drive fun given. there is not many out there as MINI. unfortunately BMW failed with a good engine...