13:40, Thank you magnus. I really needed that. Im struggling to go to go to the gym and have very little time to. Its good to know that even like 30 to 60 minutes will help.
Thanks for pointing out all the hard work / grafting, and David putting in hours when very young. For me, Magnus came across as the dude with massive power talent, who does train now and then ;-))
18m00s might it be his emphasis on general strength? Magnus is so focused on his strength and power he's almost not recognizable as a "climber" when it comes to physique.
Part of his way of minimizing injury is that he listens to and follows his body's needs, even when it means bailing out and not looking good in that moment. He doesn't have a big ego with himself.
I know Magnus takes collagen supplements daily so that definitely strengthens and repairs not only his skin, but also his connective tissue and joints. That could be a part along with good genetics
So true that a little consistently goes a longway - Slightly off topic Jamie Foxx prepping for the Mike Tyson movie initially he was doing 60 pullups, 60 dips, and 100 pushups everyother day. Which isnt very much when you think about trying to achieve the demigodic physique of prime Tyson
I have a question. I have been doing pull-ups (or chin-ups, I am not sure about exact name for that move. I do both palms facing me and palms facing away from me) for over 5 months, every day, about 15 000 if I count every single pull-up. Now I do about 100 every day. Couple weeks ago I got to try wall climbing, at 14 meters high wall, and I was struggling with finger strenght. When I had a good hold, I could easily lift myself with my hands, but small holds were really hard to grip on. I have done my pull-ups on a pull-up bar. How much easier would climbing have been if I had done my pull-ups on plank insteads of bar, so that I couldn't curl my fingers around?
Now, when you do a pull up with overhand grip (your palms facing away from you) you mainly use your latissimus, rhomboid back muscles and anterior deltoids to pull yourself up. When you do a pull up using a reverse grip (your palms facing towards you) you also use your biceps. The muscles responsible for your finger strength are all in your forearms which you only use to hold on to the bar. So a pull up is at most an isometric exercise for your forearms. In order to develope Finger strength you need train your forearms directly with say preacher curls for example although for most beginners simply climbing alot is the best way to go to get better at it and develope that finger strength. Now regaeding your question about wether or not you would have had an easier time climbing if you would have used a plank board instead of a pull up bar i personally doubt it, you would probably only have hurt your fingers. While it is true that climbers use so called hang boards to train their finger strength such training is usually only advised for climbers who have climbed regularly for 1 1/2 years and more. Hang Boards put alot of stress on your finger joints, ligaments, tendons and pulleys. And while your muscles are able to quickly adapt to stress and training your joints are not. Really good finger strength takes years to develope simply because your fingers need that time to adapt. So my advice to you would be to simply climb alot. Its the easiest and most fun way to get better at it for the first two years or so. And it is also the safesr because injuries in your fingers are about the worst thing that can happen to any climber. I hope that cleared things up for you and reagarding your chin up/ pull up question its the height. A chin up means pulling yourself up until your chin goes over the bar and a pull means... Well pulling yourself up :)
@@IAmKingHomey when I said plank I did not mean a hangboard. I meant literally a plank. Like 2 by 4 inch plank on its side, so that there is no change to curl fingers around the plank. In my home there is some kind of space over one door, and I have tried doing some pull-ups on that. It is way harder for forearm muscles when fingers have to be flat and not curled. I think this way of doing pull-ups increases finger strength way more than regular! Unfortunately I have no change to climb regularly. If I had, I would climb always when possible. I always do my pull-ups so high that my thumbs touch my elbows, if I go lower I feel like I am not doing my pull-ups properly.
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for advice! I don't have a fingerboard, but I can make one by simpy sanding couple pieces of wood and screwing them together. I will build one when summer gets in Finland!
Climbing is not just about pulling yourself up with your arms. It sounds like you're a very inexperienced climber. Learn good technique instead of just focusing on strength.
@@channelsicks Sorry, thinking about it it's more of describing if you are being a hard worker, that type of thing so pretty much, as long as you are putting the full effort in, you are grafting
not fair getting me all hyped for training when ive injured myself at a trampoline park and cant climb :P good video, grateful theres no mention of that brown cow monstrosity
@@LatticeTraining I'm sorry but i was expecting some sort of detail but i got nothing really. your other episodes are better.. I have a tremendous amount of respect for what you guys do for the record.. sorry if i sounded bitter
Wow man this must have been filmed rite before lama passed. Good to hear how highly Magnus spoke about him.
Chris Cyr ya read the description
I felt pretty bad hearing Magnus talking about David Lama. R.I.P. Legend
Hurt but also great to hear all that David Lama praise... RIP :(
13:40, Thank you magnus. I really needed that. Im struggling to go to go to the gym and have very little time to. Its good to know that even like 30 to 60 minutes will help.
Thanks for pointing out all the hard work / grafting, and David putting in hours when very young. For me, Magnus came across as the dude with massive power talent, who does train now and then ;-))
Love these sofa chat videos - especially with Magnus!
Excellent video. Both of you guys seem like really down to earn nice guys. It is motivating to hear from both of you.
My favorite climber interview
Nice to hear all of the positivity about David, was this filmed before his passing?
It was.
RIP David Lama
What an amazing interview
18m00s might it be his emphasis on general strength? Magnus is so focused on his strength and power he's almost not recognizable as a "climber" when it comes to physique.
Rest In Peace David Lama
Magnus is actually a T1000. He doesn't feel pity, or remorse, and he absolutely never gets pulley injuries.
Amazing interview
Part of his way of minimizing injury is that he listens to and follows his body's needs, even when it means bailing out and not looking good in that moment. He doesn't have a big ego with himself.
magnus is an awesome bloke, so are you
For a second there, I thought Magnus wasn't wairing any chalk.
Sweeeeet. Getting on this after my on trail time
I know Magnus takes collagen supplements daily so that definitely strengthens and repairs not only his skin, but also his connective tissue and joints. That could be a part along with good genetics
Woah, :0 is it already chrismas???
Cant wait to watch this Video
MusicScala imagine how much fun we had interviewing him! :-D
After seeing this video, I will go look for the climbing footage of David Lama. Any recommendations?
Respect. 🙏
So true that a little consistently goes a longway - Slightly off topic Jamie Foxx prepping for the Mike Tyson movie initially he was doing 60 pullups, 60 dips, and 100 pushups everyother day.
Which isnt very much when you think about trying to achieve the demigodic physique of prime Tyson
I have a question. I have been doing pull-ups (or chin-ups, I am not sure about exact name for that move. I do both palms facing me and palms facing away from me) for over 5 months, every day, about 15 000 if I count every single pull-up. Now I do about 100 every day. Couple weeks ago I got to try wall climbing, at 14 meters high wall, and I was struggling with finger strenght. When I had a good hold, I could easily lift myself with my hands, but small holds were really hard to grip on. I have done my pull-ups on a pull-up bar. How much easier would climbing have been if I had done my pull-ups on plank insteads of bar, so that I couldn't curl my fingers around?
Now, when you do a pull up with overhand grip (your palms facing away from you) you mainly use your latissimus, rhomboid back muscles and anterior deltoids to pull yourself up. When you do a pull up using a reverse grip (your palms facing towards you) you also use your biceps. The muscles responsible for your finger strength are all in your forearms which you only use to hold on to the bar. So a pull up is at most an isometric exercise for your forearms. In order to develope Finger strength you need train your forearms directly with say preacher curls for example although for most beginners simply climbing alot is the best way to go to get better at it and develope that finger strength. Now regaeding your question about wether or not you would have had an easier time climbing if you would have used a plank board instead of a pull up bar i personally doubt it, you would probably only have hurt your fingers. While it is true that climbers use so called hang boards to train their finger strength such training is usually only advised for climbers who have climbed regularly for 1 1/2 years and more. Hang Boards put alot of stress on your finger joints, ligaments, tendons and pulleys. And while your muscles are able to quickly adapt to stress and training your joints are not. Really good finger strength takes years to develope simply because your fingers need that time to adapt. So my advice to you would be to simply climb alot. Its the easiest and most fun way to get better at it for the first two years or so. And it is also the safesr because injuries in your fingers are about the worst thing that can happen to any climber. I hope that cleared things up for you and reagarding your chin up/ pull up question its the height. A chin up means pulling yourself up until your chin goes over the bar and a pull means... Well pulling yourself up :)
@@IAmKingHomey when I said plank I did not mean a hangboard. I meant literally a plank. Like 2 by 4 inch plank on its side, so that there is no change to curl fingers around the plank. In my home there is some kind of space over one door, and I have tried doing some pull-ups on that. It is way harder for forearm muscles when fingers have to be flat and not curled. I think this way of doing pull-ups increases finger strength way more than regular!
Unfortunately I have no change to climb regularly. If I had, I would climb always when possible.
I always do my pull-ups so high that my thumbs touch my elbows, if I go lower I feel like I am not doing my pull-ups properly.
KillerFinnish WR I would add in regular fingerboard training into your weekly routine. A simple and VERY effective fix!
@@LatticeTraining Thanks for advice! I don't have a fingerboard, but I can make one by simpy sanding couple pieces of wood and screwing them together. I will build one when summer gets in Finland!
Climbing is not just about pulling yourself up with your arms. It sounds like you're a very inexperienced climber. Learn good technique instead of just focusing on strength.
This is an AWESOME video!!
My new phobia is watching 2 humans squished on a sofa. Thanks 2020.
To be honest, even without covid, this makes me feel uncomfortable
If you haven't I'd highly recommend a book called Bounce: The myth of talent and power of practise, brilliant read!
“Grafting” is that British for grinding?
Yup!
Great!
What does "grafting" mean?
Working hard
ITOMl Just working hard doing anything? Like I can be grafting in bouldering or on any weighted training?
@@channelsicks Sorry, thinking about it it's more of describing if you are being a hard worker, that type of thing so pretty much, as long as you are putting the full effort in, you are grafting
Channel siCks yeah it’s hard work and it’s also about the consistency 😎
Tom "from my perspective" Randall.
not fair getting me all hyped for training when ive injured myself at a trampoline park and cant climb :P good video, grateful theres no mention of that brown cow monstrosity
You should’ve used a chair and had Magnus sit on your lap.
ISYMFS
'all the good climbers' mentions 4 Austrians
3 Austrians and one Dutch :)
Yeah I didn't even know Magnus used to live in Østerrike before this!
Erhmmm
bruh im 20 and have a buss up shoulder, funny finger and damaged wrists....magnus is a mutant
From climbing or other things?
@@lmnts556 Just climbing
Magnus needs an editor
First comment
i love magnus but this interview is very useless. didnt learn anything from this at all.
Thanks 😂😂😂
@@LatticeTraining I'm sorry but i was expecting some sort of detail but i got nothing really. your other episodes are better.. I have a tremendous amount of respect for what you guys do for the record.. sorry if i sounded bitter
@@Utigard1989 no worries, we had a little chuckle at the comment! :-D And no stress... no offence taken.