This has worked for me. I pruned all the browning and yellowing leaves. This left me with only the top 3 branches of leaves. It has been 3 weeks. My new growth is healthy. New leaves are green and straight (they were curling before). Thank you.
You and Rusted Garden are the best at practical demonstrations on fixing problems; you show much detail and do the fix in real time so viewers can see exactly what to do. Blessings always!
Excellent video! I put a small 3" piece of Copper pipe in the hole when I set out my Tomatoes. The Copper acts as a Fungicide and is absorbed through the roots. Years ago, my Grandmother would put old copper pennies in the hole for "good luck". Also, putting 5-6 antacid tables (Tums) in the hole prevents Blossom End Rot. It really does help!
I'm a beginner gardener, and still have a lot left to learn. Your video was wonderful. It all was very well explained and I learned a lot. I feel like I'm almost ready to plant & grow my 1st tomato's.
This rain in GA is killing all my plants. I am container gardening, all mulched and blight attacking my plants. Going to start this treatment right away.
I recommend installing shade cloth above the plants: th-cam.com/video/cO-U1wYGZ8Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5jmVp-PMSUqTG3fT Much of tomato disease issues comes from heat and UV stress from the sun. Tomatoes aren't supposed to grow in full sun. They're an understory forest vine, and they can't take full Georgia sun. If you erect shade cloth overhead, it will cool them down and they will resist disease better. They will *still* get diseases, because it's too hot and humid where we live and it's inevitable, but if you protect them with shade cloth starting in May, it will keep them healthier longer and you'll get longer life out of your plants. Shade cloth is going over my tomatoes this week. I've also been planting many of my tomatoes under my roof in part-shade. They do *much better* in part shade that only gets sun 3 hours a day than they do in full shade. Tomatoes planted along my house that only get 3 hours of sun are crushing my tomatoes in my garden out in full sun.
THANK YOU! Could never find a video saying how to kill the blight. I use the copper spray but of course it keeps spreading. So i will implement this program as best as i can given how much rain we keep getting every 3 days.
WOW. Fantastic, highly detailed video, about how to deal with this problem. I'm just seeing this now and have marked it for future referral. Thanks for posting this! I know I'm late to the party, but still, thanks.
Love it! Quick question, I have new transplants and some of them are already showing signs of Black spotting. Am I out of luck since it theyre so small? Or should I just apply this practice to them? I live in the gulf so I’m sure I am in similar climate as you.
Comprehensive overview and I will use this on my tomatoes as where I live as we tend to get fungas also. Looks like it could work on cucumbers etc... BTW my tomatoes I planted experimentaly in winter (australia) are loaded with fruit and I have been picking them steadily. Not looking forward to the summer bugs and diseases.
Fantastic. I had a feeling your winter growing season where you live would be better than your summer growing season. With the cool but frost-free nights, you may have a couple more deformed tomatoes here and there, but you'll have better fruit set than the summer I bet and with very few of the pest and disease pressures. I wish I lived in a climate like yours.
It’s been raining here almost every other day or even more often. I am north of Chattanooga. Cherry and grape tomato plants are hit the hardest and right now are producing profusely. Beefsteaks are not hit hard yet but I want to treat them before they do. What do you do if it rains? I want to treat them now before it gets worse than what it is. I have fertilized with both bonemeal and blood meal. Do I start all over again considering that the cover needs to be on 48 hours? Hope we have a 48 hour window. Thanks, you are the best go to for tomatoes.
Good morning, I have recently discovered the love of gardening and have learned so much from you. Like you, I live on the coast of North Carolina and have been having similar issues that you speak of. All of my vegies were started from seed and are growing well in containers. was actually getting cucumbers, yellow squash and zucchini in May. I purchased mail order apple trees that are dying. I received them with what looks a lot like the septoria leaf spot and early blight in your video. I have been following your recipe but wonder if this will actually work on fruit trees? If I pour some of the H202 mixture into the soil, will it kill the fungal spores if they are in the soil? Also, can I mix aspirin with the H202 and water on tomatoes as they now are showing signs of septoria leaf spot and early blight? Looking forward to hearing from you. Give Dale a shake for me.
Wow! Thank you so much!! I have always enjoyed your videos and teaching! You seem like a really good person with many great things to offer to the community 🙏
I’ve also heard you can do 600 mg uncoated aspirin to one gallon water. Blend it up and spray it on every two weeks. It mimics a hormone in the plant and causes it’s immune system to go into overdrive. I intend on doing this as a preventative and using your ideas. Thanks for the tips
*ADVICE?* My 5 potted 'slicers' have leaf spot pretty bad. However, my 7 'paste' (in ground) plants don't show any signs yet. After a couple applications of hydrogen peroxide at 12 tbsp per gal, I don't see any improvement on the slicer plants. Therefor, I just sprayed those potted plants with Copper Sulfate 'concentrate'. The instructions said to use 2 ounces per gallon if the problem is severe, and I followed those directions. I've been spraying my (healthy) 'paste' plants with hydrogen peroxide as a preventative. (at 8 tbsp per gal) *Here's my question....* _Do you think I should continue with the hydrogen peroxide on my paste plants or switch over to the weaker mix of the copper? ALSO... Gary Pilarchik recommends switching up the hydrogen peroxide with baking soda. Do you concur?_ Thank you in advance!
Little help on indeterminate heirloom vines, particularly if you have lots of tall vines. Spraying and pruning do very little to stop the advance of early tomato blight not to mention the amount of time required to spray many tall, indeterminate vines.
As sure as the sun comes up I will be facing these issues come August. I'm 64 and been gardening since I was 9. It seems like every year I try something new to control my blights or fungus issues with little success. I am anxious to try yours, but my question is, can I start this process before the problem occurs? Also have you tried this on Squash, Cucumbers or Cantaloupes, as I have the same issues with those plants. Scratching my head in Ohio.
We start the disease season here in May. By August, our tomatoes are all dead 😢 You absolutely should start before the problem starts, because it is easier to prevent the problem than control it. However, I wouldn't use peroxide for prevention. For prevention, I am using this new product called "Monterey Complete Concentrate Fungicide & Bactericide" as a preventative. I have it linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description if you're interested. It's like the old Serenade product: it uses a natural bacteria that colonizes the leaves of your plants and prevents disease from taking hold. You spray every 7 days at a concentration of 1 teaspoon per gallon. The entire bottle will last all season for most gardeners, but you must store it in a cool, dry place because it's a natural bacteria and it needs to stay alive. When disease actually starts to show, then you can treat the diseases with the hydrogen peroxide.
Thank you for all the time and effort.Can I use hydrogen peroxide solution alone and get good results?I also want to know how effective it is on Irish potatoes.God bless you.
Love this video. I wanted your thoughts on this intel that someone shared. They use copper sulfide dust at the time in planting tomato plants. Mixing it in the soil. Claimed to be the ultimate approach.
I have a Cherokee Purple tomato plant that started going south about a month after I got it. It was under a grow light indoors and started getting dry leaves despite watering it regularly. I'm not sure if it was a fungal disease or something else but I planted it outside just in case it was from fungus gnats and then all its leaves shriveled up and died. My other one recovered and has new growth but this one looks like it won't make it. Now my indoor hydroponic strawberry plants are showing the same problem. It doesn't look like leaf spot but as if the leaves are just wilting and drying out. Do you know what that is from?
I know this is a very old video but I have a question. Once the disease is under control, you say to do the peroxide and the copper liquid once a week. Are they both done in the same week, or the peroxide one week and copper liquid the next week?
Thank you ever so much for this video. I have been very upset after noticing the blit. 2 days ago. Not knowing what it is or what to do about it Or am I done this year? (Im a very inexperienced gardener).
Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide, 16oz - Pint is that the copper fungicide you used in this video, and what is a good preventer before and after u get these diseases.
My peach tree has shothole on it, its covered in purple spots that are starting to fall out and make little holes, im so frustrated. But im gonna try this peroxide thing. I've seen a couple videos suggesting that. I used copper but it doesnt kill it from what ive read and I need to kill that damn fungus. Its been so foggy and cold and wet mixed with some warm weather here and there its perfect for fungus, the strawberries are getting spot on the leaves. Im going to have to use more preventative measures in the future once I get rid of this damn leaf spot/shothole. Sooo frustrating to watch a beautiful plant just get sick and not be able to fix it. I hope this works.
Millennial Gardner? I had large brown grayish spots on my tomato plant leaves mostly the bottom leaves after Claudette came through. I pruned and started H2O2 before I saw your video. So now going to add in the S Ag copper because the fungus is still happening.. My question is? Is my fungus the same as yours? I don't have tiny specks just those large spots
Hello it is Julie again I had asked about pinching my leaves on my fig trees they look good after using that fertilizer you recommended. Should I pinch some and where
julie goulandris hi, I responded to your other comment. I’ll provide the same response. Have you seen my video on pinching? If not, I strongly suggest you watch: th-cam.com/video/xjLeIr5Wo4Q/w-d-xo.html You only pinch for two reasons: 1. To force fruit production because your season is coming to an end. 2. To shape the tree. Any time you pinch, you will break off the apical bud of that branch and cause it to branch out in multiple directions. This usually makes for a harder to control and less attractive tree, so I suggest only pinching if you want that to happen, or you want to force fruiting. It's only April 23, so none of us are in any danger of fall frost for a very long time. You should pinching only if your back is up against the wall and you fear your tree will not make figs before they can ripen. You shouldn't pinch until you're about 100 days away from the day you lose temperatures where figs can ripen well. For most of us, we get heat into September, so in my opinion, we shouldn't be thinking about pinching until Memorial Day. If we don't have any figs forming at Memorial Day, it may be a good idea for some of us to pinch, but until then, I suggest letting the figs grow and see if they fruit naturally. That's my opinion. If you have a really short growing season and you run out of heat in August, you may need to pinch earlier, but that's very few of us.
ah ha! I finally found the video I desperately sought!! My Japanese cherry ornamentals & Pear (w/rust) thank you, paisan. The other expensive crap (Daconil, etc.) haven't worked after use for years...
I tried Daconil out of desperation before, and I didn't have any luck. The peroxide really DOES work, at least for tomatoes. The key is to do it repeatedly. One treatment isn't going to do it. You need to stick with it, and alternately spraying with copper helps a lot. Thanks for watching!
you're good people. One of the few video gardeners who are thorough yet succinct and actually teach. I can't tell you how often I have to fast forward the BS after being attracted to a theme. Thank you. Oh, and Daconil has never worked for me and it's not for lack of trying- I'm as anal, er, disciplined as you.
@@TheMillennialGardener Millennial (since I don't know your name), the problem that I experienced with peroxide recently was the hand pressure sprayer for trees- tomatoes and other low lying vegetation is no sweat. My sprayer doesn't gain any length/distance even when I increase the thickness of the stream. So, there's two issues. First the power needed- when I apply the Daconil, it's with the pressure of the water hose. Alas, one cannot do that inasmuch as peroxide is diminished by chlorine. So, is there a way to filter the chlorine out of the hose water? And if not, how does one apply peroxide to the top of trees. I can barely get 10-15 feet with my gallon sprayer. Dou you follow? PS: Where/what is your group on Fb? Thanks.
@@h.ramonrivas9507 Hello. @ the millennial gardener has a video on this channel about a super sprayer he recently tested and is recommending that has a lot more "throw power" then the usual hand helds. Check it out and maybe it helps with your problem?
@@jeannekeller1275 Thanks, Jeanne. Appreciate your input. I'll find it somehow. Btw, the Daconil is not as nearly ineffective as I thought. Turns out my Ortho sprayer is not only ineffective in reaching the top branches but it has a filter which plugs periodically and slows down when it sprays more dense liquids such as Daconil.
I love your videos but have one question on your recipe. Did you mean as maintenance to use 4 Tablespoon H2O2/ gallon per week instead of 4 teaspoons? 4 tsp sounds like it would do nothing. BTW howdy neighbor im in Columbus Co. Stay safe.
Ideally, the copper will sit on the plants as long as possible since it prevents fungus from growing. When it comes time to eat the fruits, just wash them off with soap and water. The copper is water soluble, so rain washes it right off very easily (which is a problem in the rains, but easy when it comes to eating).
I am seeing BLACK colored leaf tips and on the edges of leaves. A couple cherry tomato plants have it on the lower parts of the plant, then I have an early girl showing it on the very top with the youngest leaves. What is this?
All fungicides work better for prevention than "curing" a problem once it already starts. So, yes, copper will be a better prevention tool than a curing tool. However, you must keep in mind that copper is water soluble, so every time it rains, it will wash off, and that copper will run into your soil. If you read the application schedule for copper-based fungicides, they have a "maximum number of times" you can apply during a season. Your soil naturally washes out in the rain, but if you're applying too much too often, it can build up. Therefore, I really only use copper as the "big guns" when I really have to. I recommend using this instead as a preventative, because it doesn't have that run-off issue like copper does: th-cam.com/video/QvZGOdc27zY/w-d-xo.html Then, once disease finally starts to take hold, you can then choose to switch to copper, or you can apply hydrogen peroxide-based sprays. Keep in mind hydrogen peroxide breaks down into water in a matter of hours, so you can spray it every 48 hours as long as you do it when the sun is down. If you spray it while the sun is out, it can burn your leaves. I accidentally burned my grape leaves spraying around 4PM in my haste to "beat" torrential rain, and I paid the price.
How did this work out? Did you have to continue this or did you actually get rid of it? Every morning I come out and if there is a little dew it's spread again. Copper doesn't seem effective when there is dew. Going to dry hydrogen peroxide. This really sucks... I didn't have this disease in my yard till I bought a plant from a guy thst had it... he lied to me about it... now it's jumped everywhere.
Same here - i purchased 2 Organic Black Crim online. I kept wondering why they looked a bit "odd" from their beginning 8" growth - I thought it was the species natural look. Next thing I know - my entire crop infected! Its not a bacterial wilt - its either BLIGHT OR _DREADED_ FUSARIUM WILT! Whatever... I used 8oz H202 to one gallon water and I have new HEALTHY growth - but, my summer crop of about 100 tomatoes are done 😢
Indeterminate tomatoes continue to flower well into disease season, so you have to if you need a good fungicide. Spray at night when bees are not active.
I use the machine featured in this video for my spraying, which can be found in my Amazon Storefront: th-cam.com/video/v3GwSvc1yU0/w-d-xo.html I simply rinse it out thoroughly between uses. You can't mix copper and peroxide in the same spray.
Not quite yet. I still have a number I haven’t gotten ripe figs from yet. I still have 2 months of growing season left, and my late season varieties are just starting to ripen. I’ll make determinations over the winter.
I saw another gardener using 8oz H202 per gallon. I used that measurement and I'm on day 6 - and starting to see new growth and no more damage - however, I've got 6 affected plants loaded with tomatoes and their stems are dying - which means the ripening process is finished. I'm going to lose about 100 tomatoes - the best crop ever! I hope they can produce in FALL - it's been heart breaking to lose such a big crop.
@@Shyeena good to here. Peroxide tomorrow, hope this works. Two weeks should know... no more black spots only holes is the goal. 8oz 3% h2o2 per gallon 8/136x .03 = .17% h2o2 if my math is right. That sounds quite low, I was thinking 1 or 2%... need to be certain I am killing the majority of the leaf fungus.
Peroxide needs to be sprayed by itself. If you mix peroxide with copper, it turns a disgusting brown. Peroxide will also kill natural bacteria if you use natural sprays. It is corrosive and shouldn’t be mixed.
I haven't tried. It may for some afflictions, but be careful. Use a low strength and test spray. Don't spray down the whole tree without gauging a reaction first or you could burn all the foliage if you go too strong or spray with the sun out.
I have used this spray on over two dozen different varieties of tomatoes and it never hurt any of them. However, I can’t speak for your individual environmental conditions. I would recommend starting with 6 Tablespoons per gallon and test-spraying a single plant or two, then work your way up to a full 12 Tbsp. And of course, do this at sunset or, if you can’t do that, prior to sunrise. Don’t do it in the heat of the day.
Copper and peroxide aren’t insecticides. They aren’t harmful to plants and animals when used in low concentration. If you use too much of anything, that can hurt plants and animals including ourselves. Use as directed. In the case of peroxide, I don’t exceed 12Tbsp of 3% per gallon.
Peroxide will kill most fungal diseases, including zucchini leaf diseases like powdery mildew. I have noticed zucchini is less resilient because they don’t grow as vigorously, so you need to get it early and practice prevention. You can certainly try.
No, because it's just impossible to do that, here. It rains too often, and it usually rains in the evening around 4PM-8PM during thunderstorm season, you can't really spray until the next day once everything has dried off. Since you can't spray during the day with the sun out, you need a completely dry afternoon to do so. I do try to spray on dry afternoons at least once a week, but in a climate like mine, every day wouldn't be possible and would be too much, anyway.
@@juliegoulandris9609 I would advise against fast draining mix for fig trees because they don't retain a lot of water. I would go with a mix with more coco coir or peat moss because fig trees use a lot of water and dry out quickly, unlike citrus.
Simple Living this spray is only effective for fungal and bacterial infections. It will not protect against insects. For mealybugs, I recommend using an organic pesticide dust like Spinosad dust first, being careful not to get dust on the flowers (it can kill pollinators). If that doesn’t work, you can buy pyrethrin concentrate. Pyrethrin is an organic pesticide, but it is very powerful and very broad spectrum, so use that as your second resort if the spinosad doesn’t work. It is a contact killer, so you must spray it on the mealybugs.
Neem, in my opinion, is bunk. It is great for burning your plants on hot days and that's about it, in my experience. I recommend you purchase pyrethrin concentrate. I have it linked in my Amazon Storefront. The 8oz bottle of Southern AG makes something like 50-100 gallons of spray, so it'll last you all season. Just make sure of two things: 1. It is incredibly toxic to "good bugs" like bees, dragonflies, ladybugs, etc. It is also oil-based, so it can react with strong sunlight. For this reason, I only spray at sunset. The "good bugs" usually leave the garden by dusk, and the sun won't react at that point. 2. Make sure to cover the entire plant, especially under the leaves. Most pests actually hide under the leaves, so you need to make sure you spray the underside of every leaf. Pyrethrin is a contact killer, so you MUST contact the pest directly or it won't be effective. It's natural, so it degrades rapidly and won't hang around. You may need to treat a couple times to completely solve the problem. Try to space the sprays out a few days.
R. Ran sunset and sundown are the same. I mean apply at the evening when the sun is setting so the spray has all night to dissipate. Do not apply at sunrise because the sun will get stronger and possibly reach with the spray and cook the plants
To confirm. If you see a leaf thst has lots of wholes but no spots, one should leave the leaf or cut it? Assume 90% of the leaf is still there, less and I would definitely consider removing it. When I see these wholes, I have fear that the spores just fell into the dirt with the rotting... that the spray maybe isn't doing much and it's really just the plant fighting it off the leaf... thst neither the plant nor I can do anything real, once this is in your yard it's there forever and just continues to need to be controlled to keep the plants alive... its like aids for the plant basically. If I really want to eliminate it from my yard is there a way? Bleach in all the containers, bleach on the dirt? It's a nightmare... was having such fun till I brought 1 plant into my garden that had septoria, now my world is ruined, I went from running a garden to a leopard collony. I might give up gardening till I move. All my expensive potting soil needs to be sanitized before the move I guess.
I would strongly advise not using bleach. That will almost certainly cause damage. Chlorine is very caustic and burns. Hydrogen peroxide is one oxygen molecule away from water, and it rapidly disassociates into water and oxygen gas. It isn’t caustic.
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This has worked for me. I pruned all the browning and yellowing leaves. This left me with only the top 3 branches of leaves. It has been 3 weeks. My new growth is healthy. New leaves are green and straight (they were curling before).
Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped.
You and Rusted Garden are the best at practical demonstrations on fixing problems; you show much detail and do the fix in real time so viewers can see exactly what to do. Blessings always!
Thank you so much!
Excellent video! I put a small 3" piece of Copper pipe in the hole when I set out my Tomatoes. The Copper acts as a Fungicide and is absorbed through the roots. Years ago, my Grandmother would put old copper pennies in the hole for "good luck". Also, putting 5-6 antacid tables (Tums) in the hole prevents Blossom End Rot. It really does help!
Best video I’ve seen on organic fungicides for tomato plants 💯
Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you so much for this! Do you know if you can save seeds from the fruits of the plants with septoria?
I'm a beginner gardener, and still have a lot left to learn. Your video was wonderful. It all was very well explained and I learned a lot. I feel like I'm almost ready to plant & grow my 1st tomato's.
Your instructions are so detailed and clearly stated. Thank you.
I love the white board with the protocol listed on it!
Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thank you for watching. I appreciate it.
This rain in GA is killing all my plants. I am container gardening, all mulched and blight attacking my plants. Going to start this treatment right away.
I recommend installing shade cloth above the plants: th-cam.com/video/cO-U1wYGZ8Q/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5jmVp-PMSUqTG3fT
Much of tomato disease issues comes from heat and UV stress from the sun. Tomatoes aren't supposed to grow in full sun. They're an understory forest vine, and they can't take full Georgia sun. If you erect shade cloth overhead, it will cool them down and they will resist disease better. They will *still* get diseases, because it's too hot and humid where we live and it's inevitable, but if you protect them with shade cloth starting in May, it will keep them healthier longer and you'll get longer life out of your plants.
Shade cloth is going over my tomatoes this week. I've also been planting many of my tomatoes under my roof in part-shade. They do *much better* in part shade that only gets sun 3 hours a day than they do in full shade. Tomatoes planted along my house that only get 3 hours of sun are crushing my tomatoes in my garden out in full sun.
THANK YOU! Could never find a video saying how to kill the blight. I use the copper spray but of course it keeps spreading. So i will implement this program as best as i can given how much rain we keep getting every 3 days.
You helped me the best of all other videos.
Great explanations on curing my tomatoes!
Thanks
WOW. Fantastic, highly detailed video, about how to deal with this problem. I'm just seeing this now and have marked it for future referral. Thanks for posting this! I know I'm late to the party, but still, thanks.
Love it! Quick question, I have new transplants and some of them are already showing signs of Black spotting. Am I out of luck since it theyre so small? Or should I just apply this practice to them? I live in the gulf so I’m sure I am in similar climate as you.
It's hard to get 9 days of no rain lately, but I'm giving it a shot ! Thanks for the video ! I've never had blight so early.
Same here. Had no problems until the summer afternoon showers started here in S.E.NC.(County over from our guy) Hopefully this helps
Comprehensive overview and I will use this on my tomatoes as where I live as we tend to get fungas also. Looks like it could work on cucumbers etc...
BTW my tomatoes I planted experimentaly in winter (australia) are loaded with fruit and I have been picking them steadily. Not looking forward to the summer bugs and diseases.
Fantastic. I had a feeling your winter growing season where you live would be better than your summer growing season. With the cool but frost-free nights, you may have a couple more deformed tomatoes here and there, but you'll have better fruit set than the summer I bet and with very few of the pest and disease pressures. I wish I lived in a climate like yours.
Melbourne here, it's killing me
You helped me the best of all other videos.
Great explanations on curing my tomatoes!
Thanks
Is Baking soda as good as copper spray?
It’s been raining here almost every other day or even more often. I am north of Chattanooga. Cherry and grape tomato plants are hit the hardest and right now are producing profusely. Beefsteaks are not hit hard yet but I want to treat them before they do. What do you do if it rains? I want to treat them now before it gets worse than what it is. I have fertilized with both bonemeal and blood meal. Do I start all over again considering that the cover needs to be on 48 hours? Hope we have a 48 hour window. Thanks, you are the best go to for tomatoes.
Excellent video, I'm a new subscriber, Thank you very much for your time and detailed instructions. I'll be starting this tomorrow at sunset.
Thank you so much for your time and effort in posting this video 👍👍
Good morning, I have recently discovered the love of gardening and have learned so much from you. Like you, I live on the coast of North Carolina and have been having similar issues that you speak of. All of my vegies were started from seed and are growing well in containers. was actually getting cucumbers, yellow squash and zucchini in May.
I purchased mail order apple trees that are dying. I received them with what looks a lot like the septoria leaf spot and early blight in your video.
I have been following your recipe but wonder if this will actually work on fruit trees?
If I pour some of the H202 mixture into the soil, will it kill the fungal spores if they are in the soil?
Also, can I mix aspirin with the H202 and water on tomatoes as they now are showing signs of septoria leaf spot and early blight?
Looking forward to hearing from you. Give Dale a shake for me.
Wow! Thank you so much!! I have always enjoyed your videos and teaching! You seem like a really good person with many great things to offer to the community 🙏
I’ve also heard you can do 600 mg uncoated aspirin to one gallon water. Blend it up and spray it on every two weeks. It mimics a hormone in the plant and causes it’s immune system to go into overdrive. I intend on doing this as a preventative and using your ideas. Thanks for the tips
*ADVICE?*
My 5 potted 'slicers' have leaf spot pretty bad. However, my 7 'paste' (in ground) plants don't show any signs yet. After a couple applications of hydrogen peroxide at 12 tbsp per gal, I don't see any improvement on the slicer plants. Therefor, I just sprayed those potted plants with Copper Sulfate 'concentrate'. The instructions said to use 2 ounces per gallon if the problem is severe, and I followed those directions.
I've been spraying my (healthy) 'paste' plants with hydrogen peroxide as a preventative. (at 8 tbsp per gal)
*Here's my question....*
_Do you think I should continue with the hydrogen peroxide on my paste plants or switch over to the weaker mix of the copper? ALSO... Gary Pilarchik recommends switching up the hydrogen peroxide with baking soda. Do you concur?_
Thank you in advance!
Thank you !! Going to try this in central Mississippi .
Damn thats a good sprayer attachment, that thing really sprays. I need to get a better attachment for my sprayer.
I put this video on my TV because I'm trying to see the name of that sprayer!
Little help on indeterminate heirloom vines, particularly if you have lots of tall vines. Spraying and pruning do very little to stop the advance of early tomato blight not to mention the amount of time required to spray many tall, indeterminate vines.
thanks you are NO 1 the best explanation thanks
Thank you! I really appreciate that. Happy to help.
As sure as the sun comes up I will be facing these issues come August. I'm 64 and been gardening since I was 9. It seems like every year I try something new to control my blights or fungus issues with little success. I am anxious to try yours, but my question is, can I start this process before the problem occurs? Also have you tried this on Squash, Cucumbers or Cantaloupes, as I have the same issues with those plants. Scratching my head in Ohio.
We start the disease season here in May. By August, our tomatoes are all dead 😢 You absolutely should start before the problem starts, because it is easier to prevent the problem than control it. However, I wouldn't use peroxide for prevention. For prevention, I am using this new product called "Monterey Complete Concentrate Fungicide & Bactericide" as a preventative. I have it linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description if you're interested. It's like the old Serenade product: it uses a natural bacteria that colonizes the leaves of your plants and prevents disease from taking hold. You spray every 7 days at a concentration of 1 teaspoon per gallon. The entire bottle will last all season for most gardeners, but you must store it in a cool, dry place because it's a natural bacteria and it needs to stay alive. When disease actually starts to show, then you can treat the diseases with the hydrogen peroxide.
Thank you for all the time and effort.Can I use hydrogen peroxide solution alone and get good results?I also want to know how effective it is on Irish potatoes.God bless you.
This is before you figure out shade cover ?!
which keeps tomatoes healthy and is gard for fungus to spread on healthy tomatoe plants
Love this video. I wanted your thoughts on this intel that someone shared. They use copper sulfide dust at the time in planting tomato plants. Mixing it in the soil. Claimed to be the ultimate approach.
What if you have tomatoes already formed and or starting to ripen??
Your still good
I’m dealing with this for the first time ever. Something very different going on with my soil this year.
I have a Cherokee Purple tomato plant that started going south about a month after I got it. It was under a grow light indoors and started getting dry leaves despite watering it regularly. I'm not sure if it was a fungal disease or something else but I planted it outside just in case it was from fungus gnats and then all its leaves shriveled up and died. My other one recovered and has new growth but this one looks like it won't make it. Now my indoor hydroponic strawberry plants are showing the same problem. It doesn't look like leaf spot but as if the leaves are just wilting and drying out. Do you know what that is from?
Can this process be used on cucumber plants?
I know this is a very old video but I have a question. Once the disease is under control, you say to do the peroxide and the copper liquid once a week. Are they both done in the same week, or the peroxide one week and copper liquid the next week?
Thank you ever so much for this video. I have been very upset after noticing the blit. 2 days ago. Not knowing what it is or what to do about it Or am I done this year? (Im a very inexperienced gardener).
Excellent video and thanks so much!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Should I spray the soil around the plant as well?
I do
12 Tbs. = 3/4 cup.
Great presentation!
Thank you!
Can I use these remedies on my disease bush bean ? Thanks
Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide, 16oz - Pint is that the copper fungicide you used in this video, and what is a good preventer before and after u get these diseases.
Do you mind letting me know where you got your sprayer? It looks like a good one..thanks so much!
The sprayer is linked in my Amazon Storefront under Disease Prevention and Pest Control.
My peach tree has shothole on it, its covered in purple spots that are starting to fall out and make little holes, im so frustrated. But im gonna try this peroxide thing. I've seen a couple videos suggesting that. I used copper but it doesnt kill it from what ive read and I need to kill that damn fungus. Its been so foggy and cold and wet mixed with some warm weather here and there its perfect for fungus, the strawberries are getting spot on the leaves. Im going to have to use more preventative measures in the future once I get rid of this damn leaf spot/shothole. Sooo frustrating to watch a beautiful plant just get sick and not be able to fix it. I hope this works.
Millennial Gardner? I had large brown grayish spots on my tomato plant leaves mostly the bottom leaves after Claudette came through. I pruned and started H2O2 before I saw your video. So now going to add in the S Ag copper because the fungus is still happening..
My question is? Is my fungus the same as yours? I don't have tiny specks just those large spots
Any help for mosaic virus?? Can I pull the cucs and replant in the same spot or will it just continue to perpetuate? New gardener here
Will this work for leaf spot on pepper plants?
What do we do when it rains? Do we restart to Night 1 again? It's been raining at least every other day here.
Thank you so much! I have a question about using copper fungicide on strawberry plants? I've heard mixed reviews on using on strawberry leaves.
Very useful information
Does it hurt the blossoms or ability to polinate?
No I use H202 and copper doesn't harm pollinators used in evening.
Hello it is Julie again I had asked about pinching my leaves on my fig trees they look good after using that fertilizer you recommended. Should I pinch some and where
julie goulandris hi, I responded to your other comment. I’ll provide the same response. Have you seen my video on pinching? If not, I strongly suggest you watch: th-cam.com/video/xjLeIr5Wo4Q/w-d-xo.html
You only pinch for two reasons:
1. To force fruit production because your season is coming to an end.
2. To shape the tree.
Any time you pinch, you will break off the apical bud of that branch and cause it to branch out in multiple directions. This usually makes for a harder to control and less attractive tree, so I suggest only pinching if you want that to happen, or you want to force fruiting. It's only April 23, so none of us are in any danger of fall frost for a very long time. You should pinching only if your back is up against the wall and you fear your tree will not make figs before they can ripen. You shouldn't pinch until you're about 100 days away from the day you lose temperatures where figs can ripen well. For most of us, we get heat into September, so in my opinion, we shouldn't be thinking about pinching until Memorial Day. If we don't have any figs forming at Memorial Day, it may be a good idea for some of us to pinch, but until then, I suggest letting the figs grow and see if they fruit naturally. That's my opinion. If you have a really short growing season and you run out of heat in August, you may need to pinch earlier, but that's very few of us.
Ok good advise I watched video hope I’m not a pest, Thank you
@@juliegoulandris9609 I'm happy to help.
Can this be used as a preventative before any spots is this a 1 time used or could it be used as a preventative
Great Video, thank you. Would this work for potatoes as well? regards Bill.
Tomatoes and potatoes are in the same family and share a lot of the same diseases, so I would expect the spray to work on potato plant leaves, too.
ah ha! I finally found the video I desperately sought!! My Japanese cherry ornamentals & Pear (w/rust) thank you, paisan. The other expensive crap (Daconil, etc.) haven't worked after use for years...
I tried Daconil out of desperation before, and I didn't have any luck. The peroxide really DOES work, at least for tomatoes. The key is to do it repeatedly. One treatment isn't going to do it. You need to stick with it, and alternately spraying with copper helps a lot. Thanks for watching!
you're good people. One of the few video gardeners who are thorough yet succinct and actually teach. I can't tell you how often I have to fast forward the BS after being attracted to a theme. Thank you. Oh, and Daconil has never worked for me and it's not for lack of trying- I'm as anal, er, disciplined as you.
@@TheMillennialGardener Millennial (since I don't know your name), the problem that I experienced with peroxide recently was the hand pressure sprayer for trees- tomatoes and other low lying vegetation is no sweat. My sprayer doesn't gain any length/distance even when I increase the thickness of the stream. So, there's two issues. First the power needed- when I apply the Daconil, it's with the pressure of the water hose. Alas, one cannot do that inasmuch as peroxide is diminished by chlorine. So, is there a way to filter the chlorine out of the hose water? And if not, how does one apply peroxide to the top of trees. I can barely get 10-15 feet with my gallon sprayer. Dou you follow? PS: Where/what is your group on Fb? Thanks.
@@h.ramonrivas9507 Hello. @ the millennial gardener has a video on this channel about a super sprayer he recently tested and is recommending that has a lot more "throw power" then the usual hand helds. Check it out and maybe it helps with your problem?
@@jeannekeller1275 Thanks, Jeanne. Appreciate your input. I'll find it somehow. Btw, the Daconil is not as nearly ineffective as I thought. Turns out my Ortho sprayer is not only ineffective in reaching the top branches but it has a filter which plugs periodically and slows down when it sprays more dense liquids such as Daconil.
I love your videos but have one question on your recipe. Did you mean as maintenance to use 4 Tablespoon H2O2/ gallon per week instead of 4 teaspoons? 4 tsp sounds like it would do nothing. BTW howdy neighbor im in Columbus Co. Stay safe.
I'm sorry, can you let me know at what time in the video? Thanks for watching, neighbor.
great video
awesome info
Can we mix with copper,peroxide ,gibberillic acid
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Like, and MD. Treat the symptoms. Good to find a cure.
Love the stick
How much ml we mix with per litre of water ,i did not understand gallans with table spoon
How do you take the copper off the plants?
Ideally, the copper will sit on the plants as long as possible since it prevents fungus from growing. When it comes time to eat the fruits, just wash them off with soap and water. The copper is water soluble, so rain washes it right off very easily (which is a problem in the rains, but easy when it comes to eating).
I am seeing BLACK colored leaf tips and on the edges of leaves. A couple cherry tomato plants have it on the lower parts of the plant, then I have an early girl showing it on the very top with the youngest leaves. What is this?
Can i do this before plants get sick just to ward off disease
It's on his white board... Peroxide and copper 1x per week for prevention.
Do you have any solutions cousins for rodent control in gardens
Can we mix copper with peroxide is it mixed r not give me rply bro
What type landscape fabric do you suggest??
Would it be smart to spray the copper solution on healthy plants to create an environment where the fungus cant get started for prevention? Thanks.
All fungicides work better for prevention than "curing" a problem once it already starts. So, yes, copper will be a better prevention tool than a curing tool. However, you must keep in mind that copper is water soluble, so every time it rains, it will wash off, and that copper will run into your soil. If you read the application schedule for copper-based fungicides, they have a "maximum number of times" you can apply during a season. Your soil naturally washes out in the rain, but if you're applying too much too often, it can build up. Therefore, I really only use copper as the "big guns" when I really have to.
I recommend using this instead as a preventative, because it doesn't have that run-off issue like copper does: th-cam.com/video/QvZGOdc27zY/w-d-xo.html
Then, once disease finally starts to take hold, you can then choose to switch to copper, or you can apply hydrogen peroxide-based sprays. Keep in mind hydrogen peroxide breaks down into water in a matter of hours, so you can spray it every 48 hours as long as you do it when the sun is down. If you spray it while the sun is out, it can burn your leaves. I accidentally burned my grape leaves spraying around 4PM in my haste to "beat" torrential rain, and I paid the price.
How did this work out? Did you have to continue this or did you actually get rid of it? Every morning I come out and if there is a little dew it's spread again. Copper doesn't seem effective when there is dew. Going to dry hydrogen peroxide. This really sucks... I didn't have this disease in my yard till I bought a plant from a guy thst had it... he lied to me about it... now it's jumped everywhere.
Same here - i purchased 2 Organic Black Crim online. I kept wondering why they looked a bit "odd" from their beginning 8" growth - I thought it was the species natural look. Next thing I know - my entire crop infected!
Its not a bacterial wilt - its either BLIGHT OR _DREADED_ FUSARIUM WILT!
Whatever... I used 8oz H202 to one gallon water and I have new HEALTHY growth - but, my summer crop of about 100 tomatoes are done 😢
Thank you dear 👌
You're welcome!
The tops of my tomato plants are turning yellow and the yellow is moving downward. No bugs, no spots, no mildew. What is this and how can I fix it?
More likely an issue with water or fertilizer. Under/over watering or fertilizing.
Can we use copper fungicide in flowering stage in tomatoes.
Indeterminate tomatoes continue to flower well into disease season, so you have to if you need a good fungicide. Spray at night when bees are not active.
Can I use this for spots on my green peppers? Also, can I use on my cucs?
Yes, and yes. Just make sure you test spray first to make sure the mix isn't too strong.
Do you have separate sprayers for your copper and your peroxide or can you use the same sprayer?
I use the machine featured in this video for my spraying, which can be found in my Amazon Storefront: th-cam.com/video/v3GwSvc1yU0/w-d-xo.html
I simply rinse it out thoroughly between uses. You can't mix copper and peroxide in the same spray.
Have you decided on which Figs. You will put in the ground?
Not quite yet. I still have a number I haven’t gotten ripe figs from yet. I still have 2 months of growing season left, and my late season varieties are just starting to ripen. I’ll make determinations over the winter.
are those cherokee purple tomatoes?
Phytophthora,,,,will this recipe kill it? its in my potatos and tomatoes
hope u n help,,,anks
Should I just use the copper spray before disease starts to prevent it I have this brand of copper
What is good for powdery mildew?
Well done.
Thanks for watching!
So your using what, 1% to 2% h2o2 after dillution? How high can one go for different plants? Assuming it's night.
I saw another gardener using 8oz H202 per gallon. I used that measurement and I'm on day 6 - and starting to see new growth and no more damage - however, I've got 6 affected plants loaded with tomatoes and their stems are dying - which means the ripening process is finished. I'm going to lose about 100 tomatoes - the best crop ever! I hope they can produce in FALL - it's been heart breaking to lose such a big crop.
@@Shyeena good to here. Peroxide tomorrow, hope this works. Two weeks should know... no more black spots only holes is the goal.
8oz 3% h2o2 per gallon 8/136x .03 = .17% h2o2 if my math is right. That sounds quite low, I was thinking 1 or 2%... need to be certain I am killing the majority of the leaf fungus.
Can I also mix in other fertilizers and sprays with the peroxide or do I need to do it by itself?
Peroxide needs to be sprayed by itself. If you mix peroxide with copper, it turns a disgusting brown. Peroxide will also kill natural bacteria if you use natural sprays. It is corrosive and shouldn’t be mixed.
@@TheMillennialGardener ty
Does this work for stone fruit trees?
I haven't tried. It may for some afflictions, but be careful. Use a low strength and test spray. Don't spray down the whole tree without gauging a reaction first or you could burn all the foliage if you go too strong or spray with the sun out.
Can the peroxide spray be too potent for some tomato plants?
I have used this spray on over two dozen different varieties of tomatoes and it never hurt any of them. However, I can’t speak for your individual environmental conditions. I would recommend starting with 6 Tablespoons per gallon and test-spraying a single plant or two, then work your way up to a full 12 Tbsp. And of course, do this at sunset or, if you can’t do that, prior to sunrise. Don’t do it in the heat of the day.
Tank you
Thanks for watching!
will this work on potato plants also?
Yes, for milder diseases. If it's something like late blight, probably not.
@@TheMillennialGardener real bad early blight
That’s the same fungus on my tomatoes 🍅
Is copper and peroxide bee safe
Copper and peroxide aren’t insecticides. They aren’t harmful to plants and animals when used in low concentration. If you use too much of anything, that can hurt plants and animals including ourselves. Use as directed. In the case of peroxide, I don’t exceed 12Tbsp of 3% per gallon.
I wonder if this will work for zucchini fungus (leaf)
Peroxide will kill most fungal diseases, including zucchini leaf diseases like powdery mildew. I have noticed zucchini is less resilient because they don’t grow as vigorously, so you need to get it early and practice prevention. You can certainly try.
For powder mildew you can use a water/milk mix. Use it when the leaves get direct sun on them.
Do u spray H2O2 after every rain?
No, because it's just impossible to do that, here. It rains too often, and it usually rains in the evening around 4PM-8PM during thunderstorm season, you can't really spray until the next day once everything has dried off. Since you can't spray during the day with the sun out, you need a completely dry afternoon to do so. I do try to spray on dry afternoons at least once a week, but in a climate like mine, every day wouldn't be possible and would be too much, anyway.
Where would I find the amazon storefront for the millennial gardener
julie goulandris it is the top link in the description of this video.
The Millennial Gardener I have my fig transplants to plan all Zi have is thecactus,palm and citrus soil can Zi use that
@@juliegoulandris9609 I would advise against fast draining mix for fig trees because they don't retain a lot of water. I would go with a mix with more coco coir or peat moss because fig trees use a lot of water and dry out quickly, unlike citrus.
Hi I am new subscriber. Will it work for mealybugs?
Simple Living this spray is only effective for fungal and bacterial infections. It will not protect against insects. For mealybugs, I recommend using an organic pesticide dust like Spinosad dust first, being careful not to get dust on the flowers (it can kill pollinators). If that doesn’t work, you can buy pyrethrin concentrate. Pyrethrin is an organic pesticide, but it is very powerful and very broad spectrum, so use that as your second resort if the spinosad doesn’t work. It is a contact killer, so you must spray it on the mealybugs.
@@TheMillennialGardener thank you!
Simple Living you’re welcome!
My problem is WHITEFLIES, omg they cover my plants, I use neem oil and does not work, they come right back, I cannot win, can you help me
Neem, in my opinion, is bunk. It is great for burning your plants on hot days and that's about it, in my experience. I recommend you purchase pyrethrin concentrate. I have it linked in my Amazon Storefront. The 8oz bottle of Southern AG makes something like 50-100 gallons of spray, so it'll last you all season. Just make sure of two things:
1. It is incredibly toxic to "good bugs" like bees, dragonflies, ladybugs, etc. It is also oil-based, so it can react with strong sunlight. For this reason, I only spray at sunset. The "good bugs" usually leave the garden by dusk, and the sun won't react at that point.
2. Make sure to cover the entire plant, especially under the leaves. Most pests actually hide under the leaves, so you need to make sure you spray the underside of every leaf. Pyrethrin is a contact killer, so you MUST contact the pest directly or it won't be effective.
It's natural, so it degrades rapidly and won't hang around. You may need to treat a couple times to completely solve the problem. Try to space the sprays out a few days.
Blight attacks my tomato fruits. The leaves are green and healthy it's the fruit I have a problem with
@7:32 into the clip do you mean SunDown (Evening Time) :) not SunSet (Morning Time):( ?
R. Ran sunset and sundown are the same. I mean apply at the evening when the sun is setting so the spray has all night to dissipate. Do not apply at sunrise because the sun will get stronger and possibly reach with the spray and cook the plants
To confirm. If you see a leaf thst has lots of wholes but no spots, one should leave the leaf or cut it? Assume 90% of the leaf is still there, less and I would definitely consider removing it.
When I see these wholes, I have fear that the spores just fell into the dirt with the rotting... that the spray maybe isn't doing much and it's really just the plant fighting it off the leaf... thst neither the plant nor I can do anything real, once this is in your yard it's there forever and just continues to need to be controlled to keep the plants alive... its like aids for the plant basically.
If I really want to eliminate it from my yard is there a way? Bleach in all the containers, bleach on the dirt? It's a nightmare... was having such fun till I brought 1 plant into my garden that had septoria, now my world is ruined, I went from running a garden to a leopard collony.
I might give up gardening till I move. All my expensive potting soil needs to be sanitized before the move I guess.
What will diluted bleach do?
I would strongly advise not using bleach. That will almost certainly cause damage. Chlorine is very caustic and burns. Hydrogen peroxide is one oxygen molecule away from water, and it rapidly disassociates into water and oxygen gas. It isn’t caustic.
You never said what to use to get rid of tough skin!
But you did not mentioned when to water the plants in this whole process so that the peroxide or copper doesn’t washed away…..
You should never "over head" water any plant of any kind. Water at base - it can't wash away anything on leaves. Water the dirt only.