TheMotorcycleMD I have watched a lot of videos here on youtube on checking the stator. I will tell you in my opinion, yours is the BEST one. As far as making it seem really easy and not adding any extra hooplah, you kept it simple and on point. Thank you for making and sharing this video. I really do appreciate your time and effort.
Stator to ground tests should be done with the engine at running temperature because the wires could have a short that is so small that it won't actually short to ground until it's swollen with heat. In such a case, cou might get a good charge at first, but the alternator would stop charging after a few minutes on the road.
You are correct. That was exactly what was happening to my GL1200 when cool charged normally until it got up in temp. Then the noncharging came to play.
ok, you got the readings that you wanted to show the stator is good. What would be the readings for a bad stator. Thats the real question. You missed a very important component to this type of testing
I do believe it varies slightly, but the reading is supposed to be consistent between all the leads. His was .8 it looked like which would seem a little high but maybe thats within spec for his, mine is supposed to be .2-.6 and I got that info from making a quick call to the dealership
Ok to clarify. In a factory service manual it states a resistance range for yellow to yellow measurements. It states if you have no resistance (ol) or anything higher then they state then your stator is bad. Also an AC voltage check should be done and the measurement is taken with your meter on two yellow wires and at a specified RPM. at the rpm mentioned in the FSM it states the AC voltage reading you should see.
WARNING: stator winding can give 0.3-4ohms & still have faulty Voltage output, so need to also test for AC @4,000rpm =@50Vac. ..in all 3 terminals. Essential to test stator ground, ohms & also Voltage output. 😎
I called the dealership on my specific limits and they said .2-.6ohm so it varies slightly by manufacturer..... but the universal agreement is that they are supposed to be consistent with eachother. My issue is 0ohm across the board
Did all the checks with the stator test & regulator test.All the tests checks out.Checking this due to the '86 shadow vt1100 I just picked up had the issue in one of your previous issues with the burnt connector coming from the stator to the regulator.
Changing stator on 94 vt1100c and almost done scraping the old green crankcase gasket off. With the new paper gasket do I just make sure the two surfaces are clean and dry or do I need to put a sealant on the paper gasket first. The criss cross with a torque wrench afterwards I think I have down.
O.L. actual stands for Open Loop. Also all three legs of the stator should have IDENTICAL ohm readings. If not, your stator may be in the early stages of failure. You should also use a Fluke brand meter. Anything else can give false readings. Especially if the meter cost less than $100. What AC voltage readings did you get?
I figured there was a solid wording for it! Out of limit works for me!! If I told everyone that there stator readings needed to be identical to the decimal people would be freaking out and buying them up all over the place. I have seen many stators with different readings last years and years with no issues. My meter is from snap on and is over 100$ Fluke meters are amazing but i don’t need one!
Fluke, Snap-On, all good! Just as long as it is high quality with good silicone leads with consistent readings and not an El Cheapo meter. I've been burned by slow refresh rates testing O2 sensor sweep in the past. Yeah, stators will work if readings are not identical but that's why I said "could be in early stages" Not saying it's not going to work. I'm replacing the stator in my '14 Aprilia Tuono now. The ohm readings are all identical but it reads 1.3K ohms when grounded to the frame. It charges just fine when cold then suddenly stops and reads battery voltage when it hits 220 F (coolant temp). I've been stranded two many times on bikes in the last 35 or so years so I would replace that stator you tested due to inconsistent ohm readings but that's just me. The video was very informative BTW. Keep it up! :-)
Nice video. My problem is this: the rectifier gets too hot and it fries. I replaced but the new one have the same issue. I've checked the ac from stator and I get 52v from all 3 yellow wires. Is it normal? This is a scooter SYM VS125. Any suggestions?
How do I determine the alternate output on a stock 2007 Honda VT750DC Shadow Spirit? I need to know if there is enough surplus power available for driving lights, heated grips, etc. I can't find the info in the service manual or owner's manual. Thanks!
Dude, I have watched 3 of your videos, and have learned a shit-ton. I’m reconditioning a minty fresh looking ‘00 VFR, and of course the reg/rec is shot, but thanks to you I KNOW that is the problem, rather than just guessing.
Im reading 77v AC on the hot wire (black/red stripe) going to CDI from stator at idle. When i give it gas it only goes up to round 87 v AC. Don't know if this is sufficient. Im having problems with the bike Honda GLH 125 riding fine at low revs but as soon as i start stitching it a little the revs cut out & it like splutters & almost dies or misses until i let off the gas & the revs decrease to a low level then it runs fine again. Carb is clean, new plug & ignition coil. Im suspecting its the CDI as the problem started initially with one of the wires near the CDI shearing off disabling the bike completely until i reattached this wire but then discovered this problem I've just described. I have tested the stator for ground issue but don't have a decent fluke or such. Im about to check the voltages on the 2 phase stator( i assume as it only has 2 yellow wires from the stator) while the bike is running & at revs of around 4000. I have no battery or starter motor clearly, i only kick to start. Haven't used the electric start since I removed the battery. Ok i think i just found out its not an issue with my stator as it probably wouldn't even start if the stator was fried. Could still be an issue with the wires running from my stator and its single phase as there are only 3 or single
I've got an 84 VF700 it's my first bike I'm trying to learn about what's wrong with it. I've just learned what a stator was I think mine is going bad. My bike will start up but it idles like crap sounds like it's missing you can kinda feel it when I'm driving under 30 mph. When I'm sitting there idling you can kind of see my headlights and running lights flickering with the idle speed. Sometimes it wants to die when I come to a stop. I gave it a little tune-up when I got the bike about 4 months ago and the plugs fouled within those four months I put new plugs in it and it's still running as mentioned above.
I have seen stators overheated so turns in coils touching each other, electrically now u have less turns, so u get less voltage built up, but no short to ground. so if u have a number of coils that have shorted turns, u get less voltage from them. if the stator is rated for 25 amps and its voltage is less due to shorted turns u lose power as watts are = to volts X amps.
My stator has 5 wires. 3 of them are black. One is red and the remaining one is black with white line. I presume the 3 plain black one are the same as the yellow wires from the stator coils while the red is a positive and black/white is a ground wire. Both the stator and the rectifier do not have connecting harnesses. The 5 wires from the the stator are connected to the rectifier’s 5 wires with electrical tapes! I suppose the last owner cheaped out on the harnesses. My questions is: do I probe test the 3 black wires only to carry out the resistance test and the continuity to ground test? Or do I have to check the red wire and the black/ground wire as well?
I have a '87 Honda Shadow vt1100 that i shook back from ten years of neglect that was doing great for about 15 to 20 miles then i lost fire... I chased down a couple problems so far... might cdi had a transistor burnt to my coils. Replaced em. Problem unresolved. Pulled the whole electrical system. Checked coils. Both were good. Pulled the regulator and the wiring harness on the 3 yellow wires seem to have grounded out and melted the plastic... is that gonna be a bad stator? Haven't come across any other faulty connectors or any electrical problems other than no fire to the plugs on my front cylinder.
On the stator connector there are 5 wires. You've discussed the three yellow wires. Is there something you can add about testing the black and white wires? The manual suggests a reading of 10 - 12 Ω. If there is no reading when checked, what does that tell about the state of the stator (other than being SOL) ? Thanks.
Ok, i have a Honda Shadow 750 1983. I did the check as instructed. Two of the three wires show resistance between the leads and the ground, third shows OL. On the second test, one of the leads shows OL when i test it to other two wires and the other two show 14.7 ohm between them. So, if i am getting this correctly, my stator is fried?
do you test with the ignition on or off? I checked both ways and get high readings from all 3 wires 1,*** & .9** : According to this test, my Stator on a CB4oo sf is faulty?
ok so this tells me that my stator is bad tanks! but the previous owner scolded the wires to the from the stator to the harness (removing the plugs) so dose it matter wich of the 3 wires from the stator go to wich of the 3 harness wires?
I was hoping you would do an AC test on the Stator. I have an Issue with my charging system on a 92 Virago XV 1100 ,I have change three different Voltage regulator, on one of them It is putting out 17.5 V ,I know that one is bad ,tried another one and it will not go over 12.7 volts so is the third one , I have bought two new one on line it will probably come in some time next week.
I have a 99 V45 Magna I may have a stator problem Would I be safe in getting a NEW stator off E Bay? If so who would you recommend that I get it from? If not could you recommend a good shop to purchase the part from? Thank you.
So not getting a reading while checking the resistance between the wires is bad?I only get from only one wire to another other 2 have no readings between them
You don't have to test all three stator AC poles (wires) for connection with ground. One is quite enough because the three wires are all internally star connected. If there's connection with ground, they all are grounded.
do you feel better jerk off? Checking all three will also confirm that IF there WAS a break internally, the ground test on all three phases could very well be different. The continuity test between the phases would further confirm that. What IS the big problem with doing the additional ground tests? Oh that's right, you're a jerkoff and wanted to 'contribute'.
Is it possible for the stator to show 0.00 ohms and still charge? I ran this test and it failed, but it is charging the DRZ. I ask because me DRZ sputters and misfires once at operating temperature like if it were hitting the rev limiter. Have not used your method for the coil…that’s the next test. The rev/rec tested fine…which is what the Suzuki dealership said was most likely the culprit
Hello, I have a 2003 Suzuki Savage with a weak charging system. Did these stator tests and yellow to yellow had resistance. When I tested yellow to ground I would get fluctuating resistance numbers on all three but eventually they would all go back to .0. I changed the regulator per my mechanics recommendation but that isn't helping improve the charging system. On the regulator black to battery cable I'm getting 0 with the key off and only 0.12v with the key turned. Is that a problem too? What are your next step recommendations? The Savage charging system only has red and black cables exiting the regulator. Thank you!
that's actually an interesting question, my assumption would be yes. I believe most multi meters have a built in power source(battery) so you may be able to simulate the existence of a battery/power source without having the actual battery hooked up. But to test other systems Ex: ignition, you need to harness the full potential of the power source, 12 volts for my bike. I think, without a battery you are limited to what you can test therefore hindering your ability to assess the problem. I don't actually know for certain. good question
What if it does have a resistance between the stator and the ground? It measures around 0,5 Ohm, about the same as what I measure between the yellow wires. What is wrong with it, and how can I fix it?
Vincent van Hoogdalem Yea if your measuring correctly, yellow lead from stator to a solid ground like the battery negative in resistance and you are getting a reading anything other than 0 or OL as if it were open. Than the stator has grounded out and is bad.
Thank you very much. I have taken the stator out of my Cagiva Elefant and found that it looked burnt somewhere close to the casing. I brought it back to the place where they replaced the wires for me. Hopefully I get a little discount this time, because it broke down too soon...
I boutgh an 2001 OEM stator for my 98, and the both have 3 yellow wires but the 2001 that came with the same harness the shows in the video. Mine had 3 straight yellow wires from the stator to the rectifiers. Now, does it matter which yellow wire goes into which port? If that makes sense to you. People on Shadow Forum told me that it doesn't matter which yellow you put in ot what port.
Still no charging after replacing stator and rectifier... Any suggestion? Battery at rest is 12.3, drops to 9.3 while cranking. No charging at all even when you rev it for a higher rpm.
I replaced my stator connectors. They were burnt. I replaced the connectors with butt connectors. Now, the charging system is working. I noticed the stator wires from the stator too the connection too the rectifier get quite hot at higher rpms. Is this normal? Makes me think the the wires should be thicker gauge or I'm still having problems at the connectors. Their is no heat at the rectifier end of the connectors. I used butt connectors. After, seeing some of your videos, I'm thinking of hard wiring with soldering. Though, if the wire is the culprit (being to small a gauge) the stator wires will still get hot at higher rpms. A better connection may solve it. Also, the rectifier wires are the same gauge as the stator wires. So, is it normal for stator wires to get hotter at higher revs? and if the stator wires should be larger gauge?(note: Stator wires are the same gauge as the rectifier wires)
Thanks for useful video. If two of the three( yellow ) wires got crossed when removing a suspect plug joiner, (that links to rectifier / reg') would this cause problems? I'm on my 3rd regulator in as many months. ( Honda cb 600 2002) The third regulator is now an original part. ) Going off to do those tests now. Thank you
Hi, great video, on a Ducati 750ss I get resistance of 0.01on all 3 yellow wires going down to the stator, do you think that's ok, the rectifier seems ok, I've diode tested it like in your other video..us I've put on a new Exide battery, the symptoms are that as soon as I put dipped or main beam lights on I get a red warning lamp on, so any load and I get a warning lamp, at idle when there is no load I get a very dimly lit red light, if I rev up it goes away sometimes...put lights on and it's a full on red light, the battery is getting 13.7 volts with the engine running ...so I dont really get why I'm getting a battery warning light....any ideas on what it could be... Thanks Ian
Hi, when testing my stator coil resistance on my cb500 98 twin i got 3 readings of between 0.3-0.5 ohms. According to haynes manual it should be 0.18-0.20 ohms resistance. Would my readings suggest a fault with my stator or is this normal? Thanks in advance
I got 0.8 of resistance when I checked the stator wires, I switched positions and all 3 positions I got about 0.8 and when I checked from the battery to the alternator I got OL .. my battery keeps draining after a couple of days (to the point where I can ride the bike and then shut it off then try it start it again and it’ll crank but not kick over due to lack of power) and I don’t have anything hooked up to my battery. It’s a new battery I bought last year, I did replace my voltage regulator last year but may I need to replace the stator.. ??
I dont know if this helps you, since you already seem to have a meter. Set it to DCv mode. measure the battery after allowing it to rest 8-12 hours. You should be seeing 12.2 to 12.8 minimum. Then start up the bike and see if you can get 13.3-14.6. if yes, it means your alternator is charging fine but the battery, even though its new, has a crack thus a weakened/failed plates / CCA ( cold Cranking Amp ) that is insufficient for starting. if not, then you need to look at your rectifier regulator and if it has faulted. The incoming leads from the stator are Alternating Current ( ACV ) which naturally reads only with engine running.
After changing my battery and regulator/rectifier 4 times can anyone give me advice on this. I've done all the checks in this video and compared to the manual plus removed the alternator for a visual inspection but after around 6 months both the battery and reg/rectifier need replaced with the 30A fuse blown. Any ideas? The battery will also drain over 4 weeks needing replaced if the bike isn't used but I can't find any decent parasitic draw, just what the ecm is using which is minimal.
Hi buddy. Great videos. I replaced my stator, done these checks an fine. But I'm not getting any charge out of the stator. Do you have any advise I could use please
U r amazing thank u for all ur help but I’m not that great wth my everstart multimeter When u say ohm can u specify which ohm # becus 20m 2m 200k 20k and down to check the stator harness’
I dont seem to be getting a resistance reading when touchibg wire to wire. Not completely sure im touching the correct wires, think so but its made in a dofferent way. I AM however getting a resistance reading right before touching the metal ending of the wire when i touch the silicone water protection thingie on my way reaching for the metal part. Would this indicate my Ststor is fucked or? Someone help? Electricity really isnt my spectrum so dunno ehat to do with this info.
Unless you have an expensive, highly accurate multimeter (it is not called a volt meter as you said), the meter may not be sensitive enough to give you accurate readings for certain stators (depending on the manufacturer) on a static test which is what you did in your video. Most people don`t have an $800.00 Fluke multimeter laying around or something even similar to it. There are specific ohm tolerances for all stators and all 3 windings have to be within that range that the manufacturer calls for . You are much better off doing a dynamic (engine running) test between the stator leads (you should get 20 to 30 volts A/C) - that shows if the stator is actually sending out voltage! There are much better instructional videos out there, Revzilla is one of them, do yourself a favor and watch one!
ByThis sounds like highly informed advice from someone that knows this stuff well. Unfortunately as you say I don't own a Fluke or something of that quality. I'll do the dynamic engine running test for voltages across the stator see what I come up with. Thanks for this much needed info
+TheMotorcycleMD I know everything has a "flow" meaning it starts from A and goes to G, or whatever the case. If I turn the key and the lights come on, A, the battery is good. But if the petcock is open, the kill switch is on run and I hit Start and I get nothing, meaning I hit start and the power dissolves, does that mean that stator is bad?
Help! My bike is not firing on the left cylinder. I have been replacing parts, trying to understand the manual, and even wired a new harness, but it still won't fire.
Hi, here's what i did. Set the ohm to 200 and it was showing 1 and its an ebay multimeter. Step 1: I checked my 3 yellow wire, and the reading is 1.0ohn to 0.9ohm Step 2: I checked the same 3 yellow wires and the reading i got is around 1.1ohm to 1.2ohm Kawasaki Boss 175 - 1999 Do i have a bad stator?
Yes. When continuity is measured there should be resistance and you should see on your dvm low scale 0.000. The maximum is about 0.004 ohms. Anything higher is considered too much resistance and the AC output of the stator could be affected (lesser voltage) so keep in mind any resistance higher than 0.006 the output voltage going to the rectifier will also be lower. The result is an undercharge battery. Robert V.
@@rvelandi1919 Thank you, I was about to ask that question, in my case it even went up to 8.0 ohms, I thought the difference was quite big but I did it a few times with the same result. No wonder my battery died during my last ride.
Alfredo Barajas If your reading OL on the meter with testing each yellow wire of the stator to ground. Then you read 0ohms testing yellow to yellow then that means that you are getting a reading. Typical Honda stators have a resistance reading of 0.1- 1.0 between the yellow wires. I would be more concerned with the stator if you were reading 1.0ohm or higher or if you got the same OL reading between the yellow wires meaning that the coiled wires are broken. I would give that stator a thumbs up as far as those tests go!
81 cb750f f super sport Checked rec/reg, stator , rotor , all good , then saw that the outside brush was worn down and not making contact with the rotor . CHECK THIS TOO,
thanks for the vid I checking the AC output from my stator when the engine is idle and i am getting only 10V AC, is it means my stator is bad? ( the resistance check and ground check all seems ok)
You need to check the output on each leg. The best way for me to answer that is to push you to get the specs for your bike from the manual because it will tell you the exact output you should see.
thanks. i have check leg 1-2, 1-3, 2-3, each one output about 10v i am still trying to find the manual but so far no luck, my small bike is yamaha fz150i/iVixion/R15
I know this video is super old but I'm having some trouble with my 2013 Ninja 650. Battery isn't charging while bike is running (reading ~12.5 volts with engine running). Kawasaki says the bike should produce 42 volts AC at 4,000rpm, when I test mine I get 2 volts AC off of each reading. I did your first test, reading the continuity to ground, and I get a resistance reading, so I suspect my stator is toast, but why would I still get a few volts of AC when I test the output? Does that have something to do with the magnet/rotor thing? When I test to see if there is a resistance reading in each coil, I get a small resistance reading so I know my coils are still intact. Anyone have any thoughts? Much appreciated in advance!
you missed the third test ...the stator can test ok with the insulation....can have continuity between the phases ...but can have shorted within its windings making the resistance lower..like a dead short....not enough resistance....
My thought exactly With 2 windings reading 0,7 and the third reading 0,2-0,3 as seen in the video, i would suspect a cross shortcut in the one with low reading.
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
TheMotorcycleMD I have watched a lot of videos here on youtube on checking the stator. I will tell you in my opinion, yours is the BEST one. As far as making it seem really easy and not adding any extra hooplah, you kept it simple and on point. Thank you for making and sharing this video. I really do appreciate your time and effort.
Stator to ground tests should be done with the engine at running temperature because the wires could have a short that is so small that it won't actually short to ground until it's swollen with heat. In such a case, cou might get a good charge at first, but the alternator would stop charging after a few minutes on the road.
You are correct. That was exactly what was happening to my GL1200 when cool charged normally until it got up in temp. Then the noncharging came to play.
Thanks for sharing that I didn't know
Though if not charging when cold it won't matter.
Not so good if the bike doesn’t run
Best Teacher Yet. Calm walks you thru step by step. keep it up Sir
ok, you got the readings that you wanted to show the stator is good. What would be the readings for a bad stator. Thats the real question. You missed a very important component to this type of testing
I do believe it varies slightly, but the reading is supposed to be consistent between all the leads. His was .8 it looked like which would seem a little high but maybe thats within spec for his, mine is supposed to be .2-.6 and I got that info from making a quick call to the dealership
@@assassin_asa what if it reads 0.0
@@StanleyOverturf that is a short to ground and something is wrong with the stator
@@StanleyOverturf then your stator is bad
It always makes sense when you have explained it. I think your a natural teacher. Thanks a lot.
@themotorcycleMD, OL in multimeter means "open line" which means infinite resistance or the line under test is broken or no connectivity/continuity
So if I do the test to all 3 wires and one pair gives a reading of 1.8 n another pair O.L what’s that mean ? Need help
Ok to clarify. In a factory service manual it states a resistance range for yellow to yellow measurements. It states if you have no resistance (ol) or anything higher then they state then your stator is bad. Also an AC voltage check should be done and the measurement is taken with your meter on two yellow wires and at a specified RPM. at the rpm mentioned in the FSM it states the AC voltage reading you should see.
Generally if you are checking a stator it is because the machine doesn't run, in which case you wont be able to get it to and specified rpm.
@@winstonpoplin the resistance measurement is taken when not running. The only measurement you won't get if the bike is dead is the voltage output.
@mikelyons9971 your description clearly said "at a specified rpm".
WARNING: stator winding can give 0.3-4ohms & still have faulty Voltage output, so need to also test for AC @4,000rpm =@50Vac. ..in all 3 terminals. Essential to test stator ground, ohms & also Voltage output. 😎
Correct, I believe this is actually happening to my bike rn. It tested good in resistance , however I think the stator is still blown. .
What about a 2 stroke dirt bike that wont start
I called the dealership on my specific limits and they said .2-.6ohm so it varies slightly by manufacturer..... but the universal agreement is that they are supposed to be consistent with eachother. My issue is 0ohm across the board
Hi MotorcycleMD. Shouldn't the ohms for all 3 wires be the same? If the ohms are different, doesn't it indicate that the stator needs to be changed?
Did all the checks with the stator test & regulator test.All the tests checks out.Checking this due to the '86 shadow vt1100 I just picked up had the issue in one of your previous issues with the burnt connector coming from the stator to the regulator.
Changing stator on 94 vt1100c and almost done scraping the old green crankcase gasket off. With the new paper gasket do I just make sure the two surfaces are clean and dry or do I need to put a sealant on the paper gasket first. The criss cross with a torque wrench afterwards I think I have down.
Finally found a good video, that explains how to text the stator!!
You wanna text the stator? Why don't you marry it?. Lol
Well...did your stator text you back?
Dude you’re awesome. Clearly explained. I’ll be checking my vfr1200f today due to having battery issues.
What about moving the harness to ck for a run though and what about the put out of the stator can be week and still show no opens or grounds
O.L. actual stands for Open Loop. Also all three legs of the stator should have IDENTICAL ohm readings. If not, your stator may be in the early stages of failure. You should also use a Fluke brand meter. Anything else can give false readings. Especially if the meter cost less than $100. What AC voltage readings did you get?
I figured there was a solid wording for it! Out of limit works for me!!
If I told everyone that there stator readings needed to be identical to the decimal people would be freaking out and buying them up all over the place. I have seen many stators with different readings last years and years with no issues. My meter is from snap on and is over 100$ Fluke meters are amazing but i don’t need one!
Fluke, Snap-On, all good! Just as long as it is high quality with good silicone leads with consistent readings and not an El Cheapo meter. I've been burned by slow refresh rates testing O2 sensor sweep in the past. Yeah, stators will work if readings are not identical but that's why I said "could be in early stages" Not saying it's not going to work. I'm replacing the stator in my '14 Aprilia Tuono now. The ohm readings are all identical but it reads 1.3K ohms when grounded to the frame. It charges just fine when cold then suddenly stops and reads battery voltage when it hits 220 F (coolant temp). I've been stranded two many times on bikes in the last 35 or so years so I would replace that stator you tested due to inconsistent ohm readings but that's just me. The video was very informative BTW. Keep it up! :-)
Solid find from a funky symptom! I don’t blame you one bit for leaning towards the safe side! Sweet bike btw!
Nice video. My problem is this: the rectifier gets too hot and it fries. I replaced but the new one have the same issue. I've checked the ac from stator and I get 52v from all 3 yellow wires. Is it normal? This is a scooter SYM VS125. Any suggestions?
How do I determine the alternate output on a stock 2007 Honda VT750DC Shadow Spirit? I need to know if there is enough surplus power available for driving lights, heated grips, etc. I can't find the info in the service manual or owner's manual. Thanks!
Would taking a voltage reading from the stator also prove that the stator is good?
Best explanation on this bike in general. You have a video on a stator removal/replacement?
Dude, I have watched 3 of your videos, and have learned a shit-ton. I’m reconditioning a minty fresh looking ‘00 VFR, and of course the reg/rec is shot, but thanks to you I KNOW that is the problem, rather than just guessing.
Brother you just helped me out a ton , i appreciate you putting out this video 👍
Im reading 77v AC on the hot wire (black/red stripe) going to CDI from stator at idle. When i give it gas it only goes up to round 87 v AC. Don't know if this is sufficient. Im having problems with the bike Honda GLH 125 riding fine at low revs but as soon as i start stitching it a little the revs cut out & it like splutters & almost dies or misses until i let off the gas & the revs decrease to a low level then it runs fine again. Carb is clean, new plug & ignition coil. Im suspecting its the CDI as the problem started initially with one of the wires near the CDI shearing off disabling the bike completely until i reattached this wire but then discovered this problem I've just described. I have tested the stator for ground issue but don't have a decent fluke or such. Im about to check the voltages on the 2 phase stator( i assume as it only has 2 yellow wires from the stator) while the bike is running & at revs of around 4000. I have no battery or starter motor clearly, i only kick to start. Haven't used the electric start since I removed the battery. Ok i think i just found out its not an issue with my stator as it probably wouldn't even start if the stator was fried. Could still be an issue with the wires running from my stator and its single phase as there are only 3 or single
I've got an 84 VF700 it's my first bike I'm trying to learn about what's wrong with it. I've just learned what a stator was I think mine is going bad.
My bike will start up but it idles like crap sounds like it's missing you can kinda feel it when I'm driving under 30 mph.
When I'm sitting there idling you can kind of see my headlights and running lights flickering with the idle speed. Sometimes it wants to die when I come to a stop.
I gave it a little tune-up when I got the bike about 4 months ago and the plugs fouled within those four months I put new plugs in it and it's still running as mentioned above.
hey fella.did you ever get your light flickering problem fixed🤔
Is this with the bike with just the key turned ?
I have seen stators overheated so turns in coils touching each other, electrically now u have less
turns, so u get less voltage built up, but no short to ground. so if u have a number of coils that have
shorted turns, u get less voltage from them. if the stator is rated for 25 amps and its voltage is less
due to shorted turns u lose power as watts are = to volts X amps.
My stator has 5 wires. 3 of them are black. One is red and the remaining one is black with white line. I presume the 3 plain black one are the same as the yellow wires from the stator coils while the red is a positive and black/white is a ground wire. Both the stator and the rectifier do not have connecting harnesses. The 5 wires from the the stator are connected to the rectifier’s 5 wires with electrical tapes! I suppose the last owner cheaped out on the harnesses. My questions is: do I probe test the 3 black wires only to carry out the resistance test and the continuity to ground test? Or do I have to check the red wire and the black/ground wire as well?
I have a '87 Honda Shadow vt1100 that i shook back from ten years of neglect that was doing great for about 15 to 20 miles then i lost fire... I chased down a couple problems so far... might cdi had a transistor burnt to my coils. Replaced em. Problem unresolved. Pulled the whole electrical system. Checked coils. Both were good. Pulled the regulator and the wiring harness on the 3 yellow wires seem to have grounded out and melted the plastic... is that gonna be a bad stator? Haven't come across any other faulty connectors or any electrical problems other than no fire to the plugs on my front cylinder.
On the stator connector there are 5 wires. You've discussed the three yellow wires. Is there something you can add about testing the black and white wires? The manual suggests a reading of 10 - 12 Ω. If there is no reading when checked, what does that tell about the state of the stator (other than being SOL) ? Thanks.
there's only 3 wires on the stator. 5 wires on the rectifier
Ok, i have a Honda Shadow 750 1983. I did the check as instructed. Two of the three wires show resistance between the leads and the ground, third shows OL. On the second test, one of the leads shows OL when i test it to other two wires and the other two show 14.7 ohm between them. So, if i am getting this correctly, my stator is fried?
was your stator fried 🤔
do you test with the ignition on or off? I checked both ways and get high readings from all 3 wires 1,*** & .9** : According to this test, my Stator on a CB4oo sf is faulty?
ok so this tells me that my stator is bad tanks!
but the previous owner scolded the wires to the from the stator to the harness (removing the plugs) so dose it matter wich of the 3 wires from the stator go to wich of the 3 harness wires?
Nope! They all serve the exact same purpose! Doesn’t matter at all
Man bro SAVED me some 💰. Thanks again your vids are superb and, very informative to riders. Subscribed!!!
I was hoping you would do an AC test on the Stator. I have an Issue with my charging system on a 92 Virago XV 1100 ,I have change three different Voltage regulator, on one of them It is putting out 17.5 V ,I know that one is bad ,tried another one and it will not go over 12.7 volts so is the third one , I have bought two new one on line it will probably come in some time next week.
I have a 99 V45 Magna I may have a stator problem Would I be safe in getting a NEW stator off E Bay? If so who would you recommend that I get it from?
If not could you recommend a good shop to purchase the part from?
Thank you.
So not getting a reading while checking the resistance between the wires is bad?I only get from only one wire to another other 2 have no readings between them
You don't have to test all three stator AC poles (wires) for connection with ground. One is quite enough because the three wires are all internally star connected. If there's connection with ground, they all are grounded.
do you feel better jerk off? Checking all three will also confirm that IF there WAS a break internally, the ground test on all three phases could very well be different. The continuity test between the phases would further confirm that. What IS the big problem with doing the additional ground tests? Oh that's right, you're a jerkoff and wanted to 'contribute'.
😂
Will there be any problem if the inside of the stator magnet rotor is scratched ??
Thanks for video! I'm checking this tomorrow on my Suzuki!
Is it possible for the stator to show 0.00 ohms and still charge? I ran this test and it failed, but it is charging the DRZ. I ask because me DRZ sputters and misfires once at operating temperature like if it were hitting the rev limiter. Have not used your method for the coil…that’s the next test. The rev/rec tested fine…which is what the Suzuki dealership said was most likely the culprit
now i noticed your resistance readings were upwards towards .7+ is a lower reading such as .2 mean anything negative?
How do I do this on a cafe racer 1983 as battery not charging and where’s get meter from please
Is it possible to have a 0 read for continuity and a 0 read for resistance?
I check my kz1000,I have zero ohms on all 3 yellow wires,is stator bad?
Your videos are world class. Thank you!
Thanks, do you have to do this at a specific temperature? Reason is my bike is out in the cold.
Hello, I have a 2003 Suzuki Savage with a weak charging system. Did these stator tests and yellow to yellow had resistance. When I tested yellow to ground I would get fluctuating resistance numbers on all three but eventually they would all go back to .0. I changed the regulator per my mechanics recommendation but that isn't helping improve the charging system. On the regulator black to battery cable I'm getting 0 with the key off and only 0.12v with the key turned. Is that a problem too? What are your next step recommendations? The Savage charging system only has red and black cables exiting the regulator. Thank you!
+oceantransistor Replace the stator
hey do you have to have the battery in the bike when you test it to ground?
that's actually an interesting question, my assumption would be yes. I believe most multi meters have a built in power source(battery) so you may be able to simulate the existence of a battery/power source without having the actual battery hooked up.
But to test other systems Ex: ignition, you need to harness the full potential of the power source, 12 volts for my bike.
I think, without a battery you are limited to what you can test therefore hindering your ability to assess the problem.
I don't actually know for certain. good question
What if it does have a resistance between the stator and the ground? It measures around 0,5 Ohm, about the same as what I measure between the yellow wires.
What is wrong with it, and how can I fix it?
Vincent van Hoogdalem if you have resistance to ground on one of the yellow wires the stator is toast. Replacement is needed.
TheMotorcycleMD that sucks 🙁 I replaced it last year with a new wound one. I measure the same on every wire.
Vincent van Hoogdalem Yea if your measuring correctly, yellow lead from stator to a solid ground like the battery negative in resistance and you are getting a reading anything other than 0 or OL as if it were open. Than the stator has grounded out and is bad.
Thank you very much. I have taken the stator out of my Cagiva Elefant and found that it looked burnt somewhere close to the casing. I brought it back to the place where they replaced the wires for me. Hopefully I get a little discount this time, because it broke down too soon...
I boutgh an 2001 OEM stator for my 98, and the both have 3 yellow wires but the 2001 that came with the same harness the shows in the video. Mine had 3 straight yellow wires from the stator to the rectifiers. Now, does it matter which yellow wire goes into which port? If that makes sense to you. People on Shadow Forum told me that it doesn't matter which yellow you put in ot what port.
It does not matter! They all serve the same purpose. The reg/rec will sort out how to deal with the current
Still no charging after replacing stator and rectifier... Any suggestion? Battery at rest is 12.3, drops to 9.3 while cranking. No charging at all even when you rev it for a higher rpm.
Mazarita Village check your fuses to your battery
@@HectorLopez-hb2zj great advice
Can it be done the same on a drz 400sm
I replaced my stator connectors. They were burnt. I replaced the connectors with butt connectors. Now, the charging system is working. I noticed the stator wires from the stator too the connection too the rectifier get quite hot at higher rpms. Is this normal? Makes me think the the wires should be thicker gauge or I'm still having problems at the connectors. Their is no heat at the rectifier end of the connectors. I used butt connectors. After, seeing some of your videos, I'm thinking of hard wiring with soldering. Though, if the wire is the culprit (being to small a gauge) the stator wires will still get hot at higher rpms. A better connection may solve it. Also, the rectifier wires are the same gauge as the stator wires. So, is it normal for stator wires to get hotter at higher revs? and if the stator wires should be larger gauge?(note: Stator wires are the same gauge as the rectifier wires)
I am getting a resistance reding of 5.7 ohm in all 3 connectors in my cbr 250r. is it normal ?? or the stator is damaged.
Thanks for useful video. If two of the three( yellow ) wires got crossed when removing a suspect plug joiner, (that links to rectifier / reg') would this cause problems? I'm on my 3rd regulator in as many months. ( Honda cb 600 2002) The third regulator is now an original part. ) Going off to do those tests now. Thank you
The 3 wires all give the same exact reading so doesn't matter which go where.
I just replaced my stator cover and it had a little bit of oil in it, is that normal
Hi, great video, on a Ducati 750ss I get resistance of 0.01on all 3 yellow wires going down to the stator, do you think that's ok, the rectifier seems ok, I've diode tested it like in your other video..us I've put on a new Exide battery, the symptoms are that as soon as I put dipped or main beam lights on I get a red warning lamp on, so any load and I get a warning lamp, at idle when there is no load I get a very dimly lit red light, if I rev up it goes away sometimes...put lights on and it's a full on red light, the battery is getting 13.7 volts with the engine running ...so I dont really get why I'm getting a battery warning light....any ideas on what it could be...
Thanks
Ian
how to cheque the stator on a xlr baja md22. mine havent got a battery from factory
Hi, when testing my stator coil resistance on my cb500 98 twin i got 3 readings of between 0.3-0.5 ohms. According to haynes manual it should be 0.18-0.20 ohms resistance. Would my readings suggest a fault with my stator or is this normal? Thanks in advance
I got 0.8 of resistance when I checked the stator wires, I switched positions and all 3 positions I got about 0.8 and when I checked from the battery to the alternator I got OL .. my battery keeps draining after a couple of days (to the point where I can ride the bike and then shut it off then try it start it again and it’ll crank but not kick over due to lack of power) and I don’t have anything hooked up to my battery. It’s a new battery I bought last year, I did replace my voltage regulator last year but may I need to replace the stator.. ??
I dont know if this helps you, since you already seem to have a meter. Set it to DCv mode. measure the battery after allowing it to rest 8-12 hours. You should be seeing 12.2 to 12.8 minimum. Then start up the bike and see if you can get 13.3-14.6. if yes, it means your alternator is charging fine but the battery, even though its new, has a crack thus a weakened/failed plates / CCA ( cold Cranking Amp ) that is insufficient for starting. if not, then you need to look at your rectifier regulator and if it has faulted. The incoming leads from the stator are Alternating Current ( ACV ) which naturally reads only with engine running.
"ground" that a different expression for "neutral" (on battery) on you touching the bike frame?
Exactly
After changing my battery and regulator/rectifier 4 times can anyone give me advice on this. I've done all the checks in this video and compared to the manual plus removed the alternator for a visual inspection but after around 6 months both the battery and reg/rectifier need replaced with the 30A fuse blown. Any ideas? The battery will also drain over 4 weeks needing replaced if the bike isn't used but I can't find any decent parasitic draw, just what the ecm is using which is minimal.
Hi buddy. Great videos. I replaced my stator, done these checks an fine. But I'm not getting any charge out of the stator. Do you have any advise I could use please
Did you solve it? I'm having the same problem 😅
Thumbs up for clarity. Thanks dude!
U r amazing thank u for all ur help but I’m not that great wth my everstart multimeter When u say ohm can u specify which ohm # becus 20m 2m 200k 20k and down to check the stator harness’
200 it’s basically anything from 0.00 to 200
How do I check the regulator
i wanna do a check on a china stator starts but then atv shut out i try startung agian and make a winey noise but no start
I dont seem to be getting a resistance reading when touchibg wire to wire.
Not completely sure im touching the correct wires, think so but its made in a dofferent way.
I AM however getting a resistance reading right before touching the metal ending of the wire when i touch the silicone water protection thingie on my way reaching for the metal part.
Would this indicate my Ststor is fucked or?
Someone help?
Electricity really isnt my spectrum so dunno ehat to do with this info.
Unless you have an expensive, highly accurate multimeter (it is not called a volt meter as you said), the meter may not be sensitive enough to give you accurate readings for certain stators (depending on the manufacturer) on a static test which is what you did in your video. Most people don`t have an $800.00 Fluke multimeter laying around or something even similar to it. There are specific ohm tolerances for all stators and all 3 windings have to be within that range that the manufacturer calls for . You are much better off doing a dynamic (engine running) test between the stator leads (you should get 20 to 30 volts A/C) - that shows if the stator is actually sending out voltage! There are much better instructional videos out there, Revzilla is one of them, do yourself a favor and watch one!
ByThis sounds like highly informed advice from someone that knows this stuff well. Unfortunately as you say I don't own a Fluke or something of that quality. I'll do the dynamic engine running test for voltages across the stator see what I come up with. Thanks for this much needed info
Does this test apply to 2008 Honda Shadow VT125?
+HOUND One way to find out is to look!! Just look for the three yellow wires! Or two!! Same test on ever charging system!
also can i use a universal 3 terminal rectifire for my bike
I’m getting 0.2 ohms of the resistance reading.. on all 3 phases. Is that still good ?
I'm getting around that too. Don't know what that means
+TheMotorcycleMD I know everything has a "flow" meaning it starts from A and goes to G, or whatever the case. If I turn the key and the lights come on, A, the battery is good. But if the petcock is open, the kill switch is on run and I hit Start and I get nothing, meaning I hit start and the power dissolves, does that mean that stator is bad?
Help! My bike is not firing on the left cylinder. I have been replacing parts, trying to understand the manual, and even wired a new harness, but it still won't fire.
Excellent video! Will check it in the morning. Thank you
Hi, here's what i did.
Set the ohm to 200 and it was showing 1 and its an ebay multimeter.
Step 1:
I checked my 3 yellow wire, and the reading is 1.0ohn to 0.9ohm
Step 2:
I checked the same 3 yellow wires and the reading i got is around 1.1ohm to 1.2ohm
Kawasaki Boss 175 - 1999
Do i have a bad stator?
+Hanging Ape are you testing from yellow wire (stator side) to chassis or battery ground?
yes i did the same
Yes. When continuity is measured there should be resistance and you should see on your dvm low scale 0.000. The maximum is about 0.004 ohms. Anything higher is considered too much resistance and the AC output of the stator could be affected (lesser voltage) so keep in mind any resistance higher than 0.006 the output voltage going to the rectifier will also be lower. The result is an undercharge battery.
Robert V.
@@TheMotorcycleMD if I test my yellow wire like you did and it gives me a reading instead of showing 0.L what is my issue
@@rvelandi1919 Thank you, I was about to ask that question, in my case it even went up to 8.0 ohms, I thought the difference was quite big but I did it a few times with the same result.
No wonder my battery died during my last ride.
Multimeter beeped and I had 0 resistance. This a dead stator?
Thanks!
Alfredo Barajas Are you talking about when you tested the the yellow stator wires to ground?
TheMotorcycleMD I tested the 3 yellows to ground and got an OL. But when testing all three yellows it read 0
Alfredo Barajas What model bike do you have?
TheMotorcycleMD Its 1994 cbr f2 man .
Alfredo Barajas If your reading OL on the meter with testing each yellow wire of the stator to ground. Then you read 0ohms testing yellow to yellow then that means that you are getting a reading. Typical Honda stators have a resistance reading of 0.1- 1.0 between the yellow wires. I would be more concerned with the stator if you were reading 1.0ohm or higher or if you got the same OL reading between the yellow wires meaning that the coiled wires are broken. I would give that stator a thumbs up as far as those tests go!
you showed a good stator so what does a bad stator read? my stator in my rocket showes a dead short
Hey man i was wondering if you could explain in detail what each of the tests mean. explain the troubleshooting system in detail from sign to source?
81 cb750f f super sport Checked rec/reg, stator , rotor , all good , then saw that the outside brush was worn down and not making contact with the rotor . CHECK THIS TOO,
I have seen ton of videos about checking the stator, how come nobody does "phase to ground voltage measurement" when running?
Make a video
What if I have no resistance ?
thanks for the vid
I checking the AC output from my stator when the engine is idle
and i am getting only 10V AC, is it means my stator is bad?
( the resistance check and ground check all seems ok)
You need to check the output on each leg. The best way for me to answer that is to push you to get the specs for your bike from the manual because it will tell you the exact output you should see.
thanks. i have check leg 1-2, 1-3, 2-3, each one output about 10v
i am still trying to find the manual but so far no luck, my small bike is yamaha fz150i/iVixion/R15
So. What if there is a touch to the ground. What is the solution?!!
+halim shoman Replace the stator
TheMotorcycleMD
Is there is any another solution? !
gsx-r7502018 🤣🤣🤣👍
Thanks a lot man ! I will do this on my VFR800 as i suspect the stator is going bad
Update1: I have a resistance of 1.2 - 1.3 Ohms between the resistance of the wires. What do you think TheMotorcycleMD ?
my 2004 VFR800 has gone through at least 2 stators since Ive owned it. Look into adding the vfrness to avoid this known issue.
I know this video is super old but I'm having some trouble with my 2013 Ninja 650. Battery isn't charging while bike is running (reading ~12.5 volts with engine running). Kawasaki says the bike should produce 42 volts AC at 4,000rpm, when I test mine I get 2 volts AC off of each reading.
I did your first test, reading the continuity to ground, and I get a resistance reading, so I suspect my stator is toast, but why would I still get a few volts of AC when I test the output? Does that have something to do with the magnet/rotor thing?
When I test to see if there is a resistance reading in each coil, I get a small resistance reading so I know my coils are still intact.
Anyone have any thoughts? Much appreciated in advance!
What if I get 0.00 ?Please help Thanks
My triumph tiger 900 .. new stator.. Reads 0.01.. not 0.03.. what did I do wrong?
Nothing. As long as you got a reading of a number is all that matters. Different bikes different readings
Awesome video man, cheers from Aus 😎
Thanks for your time
you missed the third test ...the stator can test ok with the insulation....can have continuity between the phases ...but can have shorted within its windings making the resistance lower..like a dead short....not enough resistance....
My thought exactly
With 2 windings reading 0,7 and the third reading 0,2-0,3 as seen in the video, i would suspect a cross shortcut in the one with low reading.
i check mine two of them give sign but one of them give. ... I ... open line on my multi meter does that mean it's spoil already any ideas ?
AC output?
Yes the stator puts out AC power which is converted to DC by the rectifier.
OL means open line. Open circuit meaning no continuity.
which is what it was supossed to read so its all good
Excellent 👍👌
I checked my stator and got 1 just 1 on 200olme does that mean its fried bro??
Yup!! There should be absolutely no continuity to ground in either lead!
What if it goes from ol to 0000
My stator is grounded :,(, but I get to buy new tools to take bike apart. So I guess I break even :)
Edit: Thanks for the vid. Great explanation
when i do wire to wire the number pops up then goes away right away
It’s probably fine then.
V4 carb vids pls
Working on it!
? shouldn't all three read the same ohm
Btw, isolate stator before test. No wires connected!?🤔