When grinding HSS tool bits, there's no need to worry about overheating them. They'll be far too hot for you to hold, long before you affect the hardness.
I made it from a digital Tyre Tread Depth Gauge. I cut it down a bit, made a brass slider to go under the scale which I could spring load, and 3D printed a housing for it. Here's a link to a similar one on eBay - ebay.us/36ZOND
I don't have a video on making the "Tyre Gauge DRO" but will do one when I have time. Can upload the drawings and 3D files to the RadBoogie website if you would like to make one yourself.
I should have mentioned, in part 2 I machined a new bush for the tumbler gear lever pivot, this reduced the reverse gear noise quite a bit. th-cam.com/video/j4vh6xuiS0s/w-d-xo.html
Hi and compliment for the video, very interesting. I have this lathe and I would to buy a tailstock with chuck to make holes, can you advise me of a link where to get it? thanks and ciao from Italy
Thank you. The mini lathe I have is the same as the Clarke CL300M, Amadeal of London do a tailstock for mini lathes that is compatible with the Clarke CL300M so you could look at that. I bought a Clarke CL300M fixed steady and that fitted my lathe perfectly. Amadeal say the centre height is 90mm, I just measured my lathe and the centre height is correct at 90mm. I would recommend asking them for some dimensions of the dovetail to make sure it will fit, to be sure. www.amadeal.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=tailstock&PN=Mini%2dLathe%2dTailstock%2dwith%2dTailstock%2dLever%2dLock%2dAMA_SP_CJ18_138RB%2ehtml#SID=14
a simpler depth Guage would be a rod within a tube that has a long slot cut in and marked with a measurement scale. A mark on the rod would show the depth it has moved in the tube.
@@radboogie so I went on to watch your next few videos on this project and the way you are attenuating the machine sound and adding music is perfect. Thank you for sharing your project. 🙂
It sounds worse on the video, mostly it's electrical whine from the motor drive circuits. I filter out the whine on later videos to be easier on your ear.
I think I would have just drilled and tapped some grub-screw holes in the little tubular protrusion that holds the lever in the forward and reverse positions. This way I could simply screw those grub-screws in or out the correct amount to mitigate or stop all together the upward movement or backlash of the forward and reverse handle. It might be tricky to drill at that particular angle but considering that you went through all that trouble with the first attempt to fix this, I think it might be worth your while.
Thanks for sharing your ideas Tim. I was really happy with the final fix at the end of part 4, and happy that some of the steel on aluminium bearing surfaces are now protected by brass bushes. But there are definitely quicker and easier ways to achieve a workable end result.
When you're cooling your tool, I kept wincing as you crossed the face of the grinder with your right arm. Get some wire and hang a mug of water off the front of the grinder. Quicker to reach and no amputations.
Thanks Reaper. I tried what you suggested but it didn't fix the problem for me. Hopefully that can help someone else who has the problem - cheers for sharing.
Wind the compound/top slide back so it's supported instead of overhanging, things wont move around as much. (a QCTP moves tool further away from clamp point plus the extra 3/4"/19mm wound forward?) It sounds terrible, maybe you should have just left the gear train off and hand feed saddle/carriage like you did when boring? The belt drive works fine without the gear train (may be worth checking the belt sits properly as well, on some mini lathes the gears don't match belt teeth pitch. 'Plan C', make a complete new reverse tumbler Cool idea with tread depth gauge.
Yes, I usually put the lathe in neutral when not power feeding to quieten it down. In part 4 I drill an extra hole in the gearbox for the detent which makes it easier to put the thing in neutral and bypass the gearbox. I'm going to work on quieting the lathe down in future videos, will make an interesting project. Thanks.
Very nice approach which rings true to me. I admire the orderly quality of your work shop
Thank you very much!
When grinding HSS tool bits, there's no need to worry about overheating them.
They'll be far too hot for you to hold, long before you affect the hardness.
Saw something very interesting to me . Where you get your indicator you have on your lathe
I made it from a digital Tyre Tread Depth Gauge. I cut it down a bit, made a brass slider to go under the scale which I could spring load, and 3D printed a housing for it. Here's a link to a similar one on eBay - ebay.us/36ZOND
@@radboogie you have video of making it
I don't have a video on making the "Tyre Gauge DRO" but will do one when I have time. Can upload the drawings and 3D files to the RadBoogie website if you would like to make one yourself.
How its purchasing to srilanka
Very interesting video. I’m going to see if what your doing will fixes mine
Thanks mate, hoping to re-machine the tumbler gear detent shaft in the next few days which will hopefully sort it for good.
I should have mentioned, in part 2 I machined a new bush for the tumbler gear lever pivot, this reduced the reverse gear noise quite a bit. th-cam.com/video/j4vh6xuiS0s/w-d-xo.html
Hi and compliment for the video, very interesting. I have this lathe and I would to buy a tailstock with chuck to make holes, can you advise me of a link where to get it? thanks and ciao from Italy
Thank you. The mini lathe I have is the same as the Clarke CL300M, Amadeal of London do a tailstock for mini lathes that is compatible with the Clarke CL300M so you could look at that.
I bought a Clarke CL300M fixed steady and that fitted my lathe perfectly.
Amadeal say the centre height is 90mm, I just measured my lathe and the centre height is correct at 90mm. I would recommend asking them for some dimensions of the dovetail to make sure it will fit, to be sure.
www.amadeal.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=tailstock&PN=Mini%2dLathe%2dTailstock%2dwith%2dTailstock%2dLever%2dLock%2dAMA_SP_CJ18_138RB%2ehtml#SID=14
a simpler depth Guage would be a rod within a tube that has a long slot cut in and marked with a measurement scale. A mark on the rod would show the depth it has moved in the tube.
Thank you for the informative video. I wonder if your video editing software allows you to attenuate the sound a bit while machining?
Thanks for the feedback, will see what I can do for the future videos.
@@radboogie so I went on to watch your next few videos on this project and the way you are attenuating the machine sound and adding music is perfect. Thank you for sharing your project. 🙂
@@courier11sec thanks, we're evolving as we go 👍
I couldn't be living with the spindle bearing whine! Do you think they bothered to grease them at the factory?
It sounds worse on the video, mostly it's electrical whine from the motor drive circuits. I filter out the whine on later videos to be easier on your ear.
Much appreciated, i enjoyed the videos, with the sound off. 😂😂
@@johnhall1018 😂
I think I would have just drilled and tapped some grub-screw holes in the little tubular protrusion that holds the lever in the forward and reverse positions.
This way I could simply screw those grub-screws in or out the correct amount to mitigate or stop all together the upward movement or backlash of the forward and reverse handle.
It might be tricky to drill at that particular angle but considering that you went through all that trouble with the first attempt to fix this, I think it might be worth your while.
Thanks for sharing your ideas Tim. I was really happy with the final fix at the end of part 4, and happy that some of the steel on aluminium bearing surfaces are now protected by brass bushes. But there are definitely quicker and easier ways to achieve a workable end result.
When you're cooling your tool, I kept wincing as you crossed the face of the grinder with your right arm.
Get some wire and hang a mug of water off the front of the grinder. Quicker to reach and no amputations.
The camera angle made it look worse than it was, there was no danger.
If you believe this channel deserves a subscription, this is a thank you in advance.
watching the lever at the back it lfts slightly and the noise starts, try putting some weight on the lever to see if it helps by stopping it lifting.
That handle should tighten up if you twist the knurled part of the handle at least mine does
Thanks Reaper. I tried what you suggested but it didn't fix the problem for me. Hopefully that can help someone else who has the problem - cheers for sharing.
Wind the compound/top slide back so it's supported instead of overhanging, things wont move around as much. (a QCTP moves tool further away from clamp point plus the extra 3/4"/19mm wound forward?)
It sounds terrible, maybe you should have just left the gear train off and hand feed saddle/carriage like you did when boring?
The belt drive works fine without the gear train (may be worth checking the belt sits properly as well, on some mini lathes the gears don't match belt teeth pitch.
'Plan C', make a complete new reverse tumbler
Cool idea with tread depth gauge.
Yes, I usually put the lathe in neutral when not power feeding to quieten it down. In part 4 I drill an extra hole in the gearbox for the detent which makes it easier to put the thing in neutral and bypass the gearbox. I'm going to work on quieting the lathe down in future videos, will make an interesting project. Thanks.
sorry, i find just tightening the screw on the banjo while hand threading works just ok😛
looks like you removed the plastic guard shield?
These chinese lathes can be horrible 😵💫. I'm glad I made the choice to buy a second hand Emco (very pleased with that)
True. You buy a Chinese mini lathe and use it to repair your Chinese mini lathe.
@@radboogie Yeah, it's a hobby in itself😆
that's your reverse gear lever pull it down to go in reverse