Some tips. 1. remove the fan shroud/electric fan, it's two 10mm bolts near the top of the radiator and then you have to remove(4) 10mm bolts from the upper radiator support ( this allows you to lift and pull it forward enough to get the fan sroud out from under it) This will give you more room to access the control arm bolts from under the hood. 2. Instead of trying to move or bend that brake line out of your way just take out the 10mm bolt that's holding the brake line in place in the fender well and then you can just pull the brake line into the fender well and out of your way. 3. For the rear bolt I used a swivel socket to get on it better, my swivel flops around alot so I just used a pen magnet to get it on the bolt properly.
We were just quoted $594 to replace the front upper control arm on the driver's side. This video helps us repair our Liberty while saving substantial money. Thank you.
I just did the upper and lower control arms on a 2002 Liberty, that’s never had them replaced, had to use a saw saw and Zip disks to cut out all the bolts, they were seized in solid, couldn’t even get them out after in the vise with a sledge hammer. I’m sure the factory wouldn’t put any anti seize on them that would take time and extra expense. This video is awesome.
Thank you all @TRQ for having a list of tools needed. Been a mechanic/lube tech for 5 months and the majority of my tools ended up at work. I needed a list of what to bring home for the day lol
My best advice for the passenger side upper control arm: remove the air cleaner box and cruise control servo and you will easily get both sets of bolts out. Also use a screwdriver to keep the new control arm in place while you get the bolts aligned properly in their respective positions. Had the job done in less than an hour, and I’m a novice at this.
Good luck tightening up that Upper control arm nut to spec. The bolt turns as you tighten the nut, you must use a 10mm socket or wrench at bottom of bolt to tighten the nut. Any suggestions on tightening up to spec?
I wonder what is actually being taught in the mechanical engineering educational curriculum if an entire team of engineers are completely oblivious to the principle that load bearing components that are in constant movement during the vehicle's operation should take precedent as it relates to service accessibility.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Some tips.
1. remove the fan shroud/electric fan, it's two 10mm bolts near the top of the radiator and then you have to remove(4) 10mm bolts from the upper radiator support ( this allows you to lift and pull it forward enough to get the fan sroud out from under it)
This will give you more room to access the control arm bolts from under the hood.
2. Instead of trying to move or bend that brake line out of your way just take out the 10mm bolt that's holding the brake line in place in the fender well and then you can just pull the brake line into the fender well and out of your way.
3. For the rear bolt I used a swivel socket to get on it better, my swivel flops around alot so I just used a pen magnet to get it on the bolt properly.
We were just quoted $594 to replace the front upper control arm on the driver's side. This video helps us repair our Liberty while saving substantial money. Thank you.
I just did the upper and lower control arms on a 2002 Liberty, that’s never had them replaced, had to use a saw saw and Zip disks to cut out all the bolts, they were seized in solid, couldn’t even get them out after in the vise with a sledge hammer. I’m sure the factory wouldn’t put any anti seize on them that would take time and extra expense. This video is awesome.
for the next project....use PB blaster, let it sit overnight. if you can't get it off, use a torch and heat up the bolt really good
Tip for anyone doing this job like me: you can access these hard to reach bolts from inside the engine bay pretty easily.
Thank you all @TRQ for having a list of tools needed. Been a mechanic/lube tech for 5 months and the majority of my tools ended up at work. I needed a list of what to bring home for the day lol
My best advice for the passenger side upper control arm: remove the air cleaner box and cruise control servo and you will easily get both sets of bolts out. Also use a screwdriver to keep the new control arm in place while you get the bolts aligned properly in their respective positions. Had the job done in less than an hour, and I’m a novice at this.
Thank you so much for the video. I was able to do this job right. Preciate it for taking the time to do this video.
+Enrique Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Excellent video. A great help, thank you.
You can reach the back “hard to reach”one with a 18mm ratcheting wrench
Outstanding video, Great Detail Very Helpful
Good luck tightening up that Upper control arm nut to spec. The bolt turns as you tighten the nut, you must use a 10mm socket or wrench at bottom of bolt to tighten the nut. Any suggestions on tightening up to spec?
you can move the brake line,just relase the bolt 10mm the other side of the base's line.
Verry helpful. Thanks
I wonder what is actually being taught in the mechanical engineering educational curriculum if an entire team of engineers are completely oblivious to the principle that load bearing components that are in constant movement during the vehicle's operation should take precedent as it relates to service accessibility.
Thank you
Do you sell just the control arm bolts?
How do y’all take off the bolt without extension
What size nut and bolts are the upper and lower ball joints? Because I cannot find the nuts. Please help
My upper control arm doesn’t move at all. 🤨
Hacker. No ball joint comes loose with one tap.
Muffler