@@OldForgeCreations My wife bought us reusable cloth filters and they have a nice wide bottom to them instead of a point like the paper filters. It ends up working well for the wider design, but you have to assume your client will have something similar on their end then.
Very nice so far! It just needs the vertical ribs on the inside of the cone to be complete. The ribs make a difference to the flow rate of the downward pour. Hario designed them be as fast as possible in order to allow for the finest grinds of all pour-over cones.
The V60 has a base of around 105mm, so I aim to throw to at least 120mm to shrink down to a similar size or larger. It's always better to be on the wider side as there's no real downside, whereas too small and it won't fit many mugs. I use a white stoneware called KGM body.
@@OldForgeCreations gotta say, I come for the content, I stay for the shirts. Also, testing out your strontium gloss base with 3% managanese and floating Orange right now. Kiln opens tonight or tomorrow, I'll post the results on glazy of course
@@BasilWallace Awesome, I hope they work out well for you! Some perople have found the strontium gloss turns matte for them, and it's usually solved by reducing the rutile, just in case you also have that issue.
@@OldForgeCreations I saw your notes saying you'd dropped the potash for custer, so I actually tested this twice using your recipe straight sub custer for potash, and another with the values adjusted and tweaked to match the custer, but with Neph Sye and potash. I think the tweaked version with neph sye is better, but really neither worked. It's really glossy, but very cloudy, and not transparent. I think the issue is too much titanium. I must have a bag of a common ingredient across some glazes that's just stupidly high in titanium as I've tried your old and new floating blue, floating orange, raspberry ripple and now this stront gloss, and they're all milky. I'll add a photo of mine now. My bucket of your new floating blue is pretty okay, I uploaded some photos, and you can see there's a lot of milky white in there I'll next be attempting a line-blend test with the same recipes, but 0 addition of rutile (so line blend test of: floating blue, floating orange, strontium gloss + manganese)
@@BasilWallace Yea, it does sound like that might be the cause, and that would make sense for all my glazes coming out differently with your rutile. I'm not sure if my supplier calcines theirs which could be one source of difference, or it could just be that your rutile has a different ratio of titanium and iron. Doing a test with increasing amounts sounds like the perfect test to see if it's due to ingredient difference or not.
It looks so easy to be done...by you! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks very much for sharing this. I’ve only managed to throw a mini version so far, this video is great as is your guide.
Thanks! I think they're one of the harder shapes to throw, because you've got to get two awkward aspects right with a fairly narrow shoulder to it
Thanks for the guide! I've been making these recently, but mostly winging it when it comes to shape. Mine look a lot like your wide version.
I still prefer that wider shape! It seems a shame to make a less aesthetic version, but worth it if that's what it takes to better fit the filters
@@OldForgeCreations My wife bought us reusable cloth filters and they have a nice wide bottom to them instead of a point like the paper filters. It ends up working well for the wider design, but you have to assume your client will have something similar on their end then.
@@chrishuber2768 That's good to know, and I think a lot of people would get on board with reusable filters too. Thanks!
Very nice so far! It just needs the vertical ribs on the inside of the cone to be complete. The ribs make a difference to the flow rate of the downward pour. Hario designed them be as fast as possible in order to allow for the finest grinds of all pour-over cones.
Good to know, thank you
Thank you for sharing and making this available
Have you tried adding the ribs that are in the V60? Would love to see the process for that.
Fantastic video !! Thank you so much! A couple of questions for you, if you please, how wide did you make the base? What clay did you use? Thank you !
The V60 has a base of around 105mm, so I aim to throw to at least 120mm to shrink down to a similar size or larger. It's always better to be on the wider side as there's no real downside, whereas too small and it won't fit many mugs.
I use a white stoneware called KGM body.
Thanks for this. This was a question I was going to ask soon, actually...
Glad we're on the same wavelength!
@@OldForgeCreations gotta say, I come for the content, I stay for the shirts.
Also, testing out your strontium gloss base with 3% managanese and floating Orange right now. Kiln opens tonight or tomorrow, I'll post the results on glazy of course
@@BasilWallace Awesome, I hope they work out well for you! Some perople have found the strontium gloss turns matte for them, and it's usually solved by reducing the rutile, just in case you also have that issue.
@@OldForgeCreations I saw your notes saying you'd dropped the potash for custer, so I actually tested this twice using your recipe straight sub custer for potash, and another with the values adjusted and tweaked to match the custer, but with Neph Sye and potash.
I think the tweaked version with neph sye is better, but really neither worked. It's really glossy, but very cloudy, and not transparent.
I think the issue is too much titanium. I must have a bag of a common ingredient across some glazes that's just stupidly high in titanium as I've tried your old and new floating blue, floating orange, raspberry ripple and now this stront gloss, and they're all milky.
I'll add a photo of mine now.
My bucket of your new floating blue is pretty okay, I uploaded some photos, and you can see there's a lot of milky white in there
I'll next be attempting a line-blend test with the same recipes, but 0 addition of rutile (so line blend test of: floating blue, floating orange, strontium gloss + manganese)
@@BasilWallace Yea, it does sound like that might be the cause, and that would make sense for all my glazes coming out differently with your rutile. I'm not sure if my supplier calcines theirs which could be one source of difference, or it could just be that your rutile has a different ratio of titanium and iron. Doing a test with increasing amounts sounds like the perfect test to see if it's due to ingredient difference or not.
thank you very much for sharing this.
Please make one using air dry clay Im a beginner so I wanted to learn 🙏🙏🙏🥺💖
How do you fire these with glaze on the bottom? Do you use stilts?
Are your videos in real time? I'm trying to work on my pacing when pulling up the walls
Yep, all real time. But I would say to do what feels right for you rather than try and copy me, I don't really know what I'm doing!
How much clay do you start with? What weight?
550g
Is this for size 01, 1-2cups?
No, for the 02 version